Congratulations on your purchase of a Quantum Harvest EMP protected* portable solar
power station! These units have been carefully designed and hand-crafted to provide many
years of trouble-free operation. In the unlikely event of malfunction, we offer a 1 year warranty
on the batteries (if provided by us.); 3 years on the inverter and charge controllers; 5 years on
everything else. For warranty details, see page 34.
To obtain maximum performance and long life from your new power station, it is
important to gain a basic understanding of how such units operate and their limitations. The
heart of the unit, and it's main component, is the battery bank. This is where the energy from
the solar panels or the included 120 volt AC battery charger is stored for later use. The
particular batteries I have selected are state of the art deep-cycle Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM)
medical-grade batteries. These batteries are maintenance free and can be stored and used in any
position. Since they do not give off gases as they charge, there is no danger of fire and they
never need to have water added.
To obtain maximum life from these, or any other batteries, it is important to try to avoid
deep cycling, that is, drawing them down flat before allowing them to recharge. Sometimes this
cannot be avoided, but if at all possible, strive to avoid doing so.
Another important component is the inverter. This is the device that converts the low
voltage DC current from the batteries into the high voltage AC current that we are familiar
with. (All Quantum Harvest power stations also have 12 volt DC receptacles and USB charging
sockets for the appropriate devices, in addition to standard 120 volt AC house current.) The
inverter is protected internally from overheating and low battery voltage, and externally from
over-current draw by a 400 ampere ANL type fuse. The Model 3000 will sustain a continuous
3000 watts of current, and will briefly provide up to 6000 surge watts, to start motors and other
inductive loads. The inverter relies on air flow around and through the unit to cool it, therefore
it is imperative that the inverter not be used with the enclosure door closed.
Another important part is the solar panels. We currently offer a choice of a 100 watt
single-panel mobile assembly, as well as a 200 watt dual-panel mobile assembly, and a 300
watt, three panel assembly. All our models of power stations can also be purchased without
solar panels, allowing the client to supply their own panels, if they so desire. We recommend an
absolute minimum of 100 watts rated panel capacity, and 200 or even 300 watts would be
better. If unsure, email us at support@quantumharvest.net with the specifications of the
proposed panels and we can quickly look them up and confirm whether or not they will work.
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*A quick note on EMP
An EMP, or Electro-Magnetic Pulse is a devastating phenomenon that, while harmless to living
things, absolutely destroys anything electronic. It consists of extremely powerful electromagnetic fields
building and collapsing hundreds of thousands of times per second. This induces potentially huge
electric currents in anything that conducts electricity, causing components connected to said conductor
to burn out. An EMP can be caused by either a deliberate, high-altitude nuclear warhead detonation,
or can be caused naturally by a solar event called a Coronal Mass Ejection, or CME.
All Quantum Harvest power units are built into a specially designed enclosure, more
properly called a Faraday Cage, named after Michael Faraday, an early pioneer in
electromagnetic research. The purpose of a Faraday cage is to intercept and divert
electromagnetic energy away from the box's interior, thus protecting the contents.
The principles involved are fairly simple, but the proper execution is critical. In order
for the enclosure to be useful, it must have a door, but any opening larger than a square
centimeter or so allows too much energy to penetrate the interior, thus defeating the purpose of
the Faraday cage.
The solution to this conundrum is to gasket the door with a special type of conductive
gasket, mated to a copper or silver strip that is electrically bonded to the main box. The key is
to have very low electrical resistance between the door and the enclosure, with no gaps. This is
not as easy as it sounds, and requires special materials designed specifically for this
application.
My experience with Faraday apparatus comes from 8 years experience with very
powerful industrial machines called RF welders. These machines use extremely powerful and
focused bursts of electromagnetic energy to weld and form plastic parts. These machines
basically create a local EMP every time they fire, and it is critical that stray energy be confined
and dissipated safely to avoid damage to other sensitive electrical machinery.
Battery Bank Capacity: 440 Amp/hours, 5,280 Watt/hours
AC Charger: 20 Amp Smart Battery Charger
Solar Charger/Controller:Instapark 60 Amp MPPT Solar Power Charge
Controller.
Solar Panel Assembly Specifications
(300 Watt Model)
Assembled and folded Dimensions: 50.75”H x 8”D x 25.5”W
Unfolded Dimensions:47.75”H x 60”W
Assembled Weight:68.2 lbs.
Rated Output (Nominal)Optimum Operating Voltage (Vmp): 18.9V
Optimum Operating Current (Imp): 15.87 A
Open - Circuit Voltage (Voc): 22.5 V
Short- Circuit Current (Isc): 17.25 A
Maximum Power at STC: 300 W
Operating Module Temperature: -40°C to + 90°C
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In this manual, the following symbols are used to
highlight important facts:
Denotes circumstances where failure to follow the procedures
outlined in the manual may result in property damage.
Denotes circumstances where failure to follow the procedures
outlined in the manual may result in personal injury or death.
Always remember that electricity is utterly devoid of mercy and
never grants second chances!
Note on Batteries
This Quantum Harvest power station is designed to use AGM batteries
that measure 12.91” Long, by 6.77” Wide by 9.29” High. The particular
battery model we use is the UB121100 110AH model. Other models of
similar dimensions and specifications will also work.
*Caution*Although the low voltage at the battery terminals
means that electrical shock or electrocution is impossible,
nonetheless, batteries store an enormous amount of potential energy,
that if accidentally released by a short-circuit, can melt metal tools, start
fires and cause personal injury. Eye protection MUST BE WORN
whenever working with batteries of this size, and extreme care must be
exercised at all times. Anything electrical is unforgiving of mistakes.
!Warning! Note that although the voltage at the battery
terminals is insufficient to shock a person, the current coming
from the inverter receptacles is 120 volt house current, and that
is indeed capable of inflicting a severe, potentially fatal shock.
Always be sure that extension cords are not frayed or worn, and that all
equipment plugged into the inverter is in a safe condition.
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Section 1: Capacities and recommended usages
This 3,000 watt model is the next-to-largest true sine-wave unit we currently produce,
and with it's premium, industrial-grade Samlex inverter with proven soft-start technology, will
reliably start and power anything within it's capability, even fussy items that will not run with
cheaper, modified sine-wave inverters. It will run full-size refrigerators and freezers, table saws
and chop saws, as well as any hand-held tools, such as drills, grinders and circular saws, etc. It
will also, of course, power smaller items such as TVs, cell phones,laptops, tablets, etc.
This Model is available with an optional transformer and proprietary soft-start
mechanism to augment the built-in system in the inverter, which allows it to reliably start and
power up to to a 1 hp submersible well pump. It is NOT recommended to power large resistive
loads like central air-conditioners,water heaters and electric space heaters, as well as large
electric motors, such as industrial air compressors, etc.
Used within it's limits, this unit will provide many years of trouble-free service, and be a
joy to own and use. But like most things, if you push it beyond it's limits, you will be plagued
by expensive repairs and poor performance.
This machine contains a battery bank of four, 110 amp/hour batteries, for a total capacity
of 440 amp/hrs. How much real power is that? If we multiply the 440 amp/hours by the
nominal voltage (12 volts), we get a capacity of 5,280 watt/hours (watts = volts times amps).
This machine will run a full-sized refrigerator or freezer for several days, even without the
solar panels hooked up.
On the next page is a partial list of common electrical appliances and their approximate
loads, provided in part by the good folks at: http://www.energy.gov
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Section 2: Controls/Circuit Protection Devices
There is one main fuse, a 400 ampere ANL type fuse,
shown to the right, located beside the inverter. There is
one spare fuse included in the spare parts kit. To
replace the fuse, first, be sure the main switch is turned
off, then, using a 9/16” wrench, remove the two nuts.
Lift the fuse out and place the new one over the studs;
reapply the nuts, being careful to not over-tighten.
Detail of Main Control Panel
Anderson connector for Voltage/Charging amps meter 220 volt AC
breaker
booster cables 220 volt system on/off switch
Polarity indicator LEDs for use
with the booster cables
(see section 5)
12 Volt DC cigarette
lighter-style outlets
USB charger ports (2) 120 volt AC outlets
Inverter start button 220 volt AC outlet
Main Switch; 4 positions available.
Off position isolates the inverter and control panel from the batteries.
Position #1 is the normal use position in which the unit draws from the internal battery bank.
Position #1&2 is the position used when using the booster cables, and allows the unit to run
from both the internal battery bank and the vehicle's charging system.
Position #2 is not normally used, and allows the load to be run directly from an automobile's
charging system, bypassing the internal battery bank.
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Detail of Main Panel Circuit Breakers
40 amp for AC charger
30 amp for right-most
120volt outlets
30 amp for left-most 120volt
outlets
20 amp for 12 volt DC outlets
5 amp for USB charger,20 amp, 220 volt AC breaker
and soft-start module
control system
Detail of AC Charger
Battery voltage selector
Battery type selector
Max. charge current
selector
Initiate charging sequence button Display toggle between % charge and
battery voltage button
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Detail of Solar Charger/Controller
and related circuit-breakers
The solar charge controller is completely automatic, and requires no user intervention or
maintenance.
Steady red light indicates batteries
are being charged, blinking red light
indicates full charge.
Yellow light indicates connection to
battery bank.
Green light in the middle may be
ignored in this application.
Right; The solar charge controller is
protected by 2, 70-amp circuit-breakers.
It is recommended that they be kept in
the disconnected position (shown) until
the solar panels are plugged in; then
push the red levers down to latch,
turning the breakers on. To shut off,
depress the red button to the left of the
levers. These breakers both must be
engaged to charge the batteries from the
solar panels.
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Section 3: External Ports and Connectors
The external ports/connectors for attaching the power cord for the AC charger and the solar
panels are located on the latch side of the unit.
External Connector Location
AC Charger port
Insert the plug into the socket with the silver tab on top, and turned slightly to the left. Push it in fully
and gently twist it clockwise until it latches. To remove, use your thumb to pull the silver tab toward
you, then twist the plug counter-clockwise and pull it out of the socket.
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Solar Panel Connector Port
Due to the large amount of
amperage the solar charge
controller is able to handle, this
model uses a heavy-duty 2 pin
intermediary connector to handle
multiple solar panels. To connect,
lift the cover, and oriented as
shown with the boss on top, slide
the connector into the socket.
Please note that the cover has a
latch-pawl to prevent the jack from
creeping out. To remove, lift the
cover slightly to disengage the
latch, and remove the jack.
(Although both connectors are
shown connected in the upper
photo for illustration purposes, it
is not recommended that both the
AC charger and the solar charger
operate at the same time.)
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Right;The intermediary solar
panel cable plugged into the base
unit.
The solar panel assemblies
simply plug into the
intermediary cable junction box
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Section 4A: General Operation and Maintenance
WARNING! The base unit is NOT water-proof, and must be stored and
used in a dry location. Wind-driven rain will ruin the inverter, and
worse, set up conditions where people or pets may be
electrocuted. The solar panel assemblies may, however be
safely used outdoors in any weather, so long as care is taken
to prevent wind and falling objects like tree limbs, etc. from causing
damage.
Also, please take note that in addition to the above very real
danger, the warranty does not cover water or other weather-related
damage to any of the components!
To use the unit, unplug the AC charger cord if it is connected, then wheel the unit to a
convenient location. Open the cabinet door and turn the main switch clockwise to position #1
and then press the inverter start button to initialize the inverter. Connect any loads to the
appropriate receptacles. Be sure to keep the door open so as to allow adequate airflow for
inverter cooling.
Note that it is not necessary to have the solar panels connected in order to use the power
station, but if they are not connected (and in direct sunlight), you will only have what power is
in the batteries. There is no easy way to tell exactly how much charge remains in the batteries,
so the best measure we have is to watch the battery bank voltage, which is shown on the control
panel's digital display.
Battery voltage gradients change over time as the batteries age, but a good rule of thumb
is that 12.8 to 14 volts is a reading for a battery pretty much fully charged. When the voltage
drops to 12.1 to 12.3 volts, the batteries are usually about one half to two-thirds discharged.
Voltage of 11.0 to 11.9 mean that the battery is pretty much exhausted, and voltages below
about 10.5 will cause the inverter to shut off. These numbers are only approximate, experience
is still the best teacher!
Please note that the voltage readings, to be accurate, must be read under
a no-load condition. The voltage will be much lower when the batteries are
under load.
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Section 4B: Using the 220 volt system
The Model 3000 is the only one of our systems that features an on-demand 220 volt
system with a specially designed soft-start system to power common deep-well submersible
pumps up to 1 hp. Since the transformer bleeds off about 20 watts of power even when unused,
it is recommended to leave it powered down when not in use to conserve battery power.
There is a switch on the upper right of the control panel that when in the “on” position,
supplies power to the transformer; turn it on, (there should be a faint humming sound beneath
the control panel when the transformer is energized.),and plug in the power cord for the pump.
Be sure the 20 amp double circuit-breaker in the upper right-most corner is also in the “on”
position. Everything else is fully automatic.
Transformer power on/off switch 220 volt, 20 amp circuit-breaker
220 volt twist-lock receptacle
The 220 volt system includes our proprietary soft-start
module, pictured on the right. It's purpose is to reduce the
amount of current required to start the pump motor; this allows a
smaller load to be passed to the inverter, allowing any given
sized inverter to start and run a disproportionately large motor.
It accomplishes this by sensing when the pressure switch
turns the pump on, and activating a mechanism that starts the
load at a smaller voltage, and ramping up the voltage to
normal line-level over a period of several seconds.
When the pressure switch on the pump is satisfied and
switches off, the soft-starter switches off and resets for
the next cycle.
The soft-starter has 2 LEDs that are visible by
looking down on the left (hinge) side by the end of the
control panel. Under normal operation, the green LED comes on when the module senses the
pump has started, and a few seconds later, the yellow LED lights to indicate the soft-start cycle
is complete, and the voltage going to the pump is at normal line-level.
In the event of a failure of the module, it may be bypassed. Instructions are on page 37.
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Section 4C: Using the solar panel assembly(s), and AC
Charger
To use the mobile solar panel assembly, wheel it to a location with a good Southern
exposure to the sun, and if using the 200 or 300 watt multiple panel models, retract the wheel
assemblies as shown in the pictures below, release the latch and unfold the panels, then loosen
the knobs and position the support struts such that the panels face the sun at approximately a 45
degree angle, and re-tighten the knobs. Uncoil as much cable as needed to reach the connector
box, and plug it in. Be sure both solar charge controller circuit-breakers are switched on.
Procedure is the same for the 100 watt single-panel model except that the wheels must be
locked with the brake knobs to prevent rolling.
The solar panel assembly has been built to be as sturdy as possible, but
remember that the panels themselves are made of a low-iron glass, that
while quite robust, is nonetheless glass, and WILL BREAK if the
panels are dropped or fall onto a hard surface or object. The warranty DOES
NOT cover broken solar panels!! Take care in setting up the panels so that the
wind will not blow them over, and that they do not tip over. It is
recommended that they be guyed in place in potentially windy situations.
On the multi-panel models; it is vital that the wheel assemblies be
retracted to allow the panels to sit directly on the ground/floor when the
panels are being used and also when they are being stored, otherwise the
wheels will allow the unit to roll forward and collapse, falling onto the backs
of the panels, possibly resulting in breakage! The single-panel model must
likewise have the wheels locked in the same situations for the same reasons.
The only time the wheels are lowered/unlocked is when the units are being
moved!
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300 watt Solar Panel Assembly Use Instructions
Right; This is the panel assembly in the
parked position. Note that the wheel struts are
unlocked, allowing the assembly to rest on the
rubber bumpers on the bottom, and the brace
is folded out to provide support.
Right; This shows the wheel strut locked in the transport
position. To unlock, pull the gold colored knob out and twist
it 90 degrees either way to lock it in the retracted position.
Note that the wheel struts will only be in this position when
the assembly is being wheeled around.
Right; Detail of the wheel strut in the unlocked position.
They must be in this position whenever the assembly is being
used, or is parked.
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Above; To use the assembly, wheel it to the desired location, unlock and raise the wheel struts,
release the rubber latch on top, and unfold as shown. Be careful to not pinch your fingers
between the panels! (Been there, done that!)
Below; The top support gusset is velcroed to the back of the middle panel. Detach it and slip it
over the pins on top of the assembly to provide structural rigidity.
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When you are finished with the unit, unplug the solar panel assembly, coil the cable on
the brackets and stow the assembly in a safe place. Switch off the inverter, then turn the main
switch to the off position. Wheel the unit to a safe, indoor location, and plug the AC charger
cord into a wall socket and plug the other end into the appropriate socket on the side of the base
unit. Verify that the AC charger is on, and that the left-most LEDs indicate 12 volts and AGM
setting. Select the charge rate (20 amps recommended) and press the “Charge” button. Close
and latch the cabinet door. Note that the main switch should be OFF. The AC charger will
automatically maintain the batteries at the optimum voltage as long as it is plugged in. There is
no need for further intervention.
Battery voltage selector
Battery type selector
Max. charge current
selector
Initiate charging sequence button Display toggle between % charge and
battery voltage button
Please note that the AC charger will charge the batteries even if the
main switch is off, but in order to use the inverter or other power outlets, the
main switch MUST be switched to position #1!
The only other maintenance needed besides keeping the batteries charged is to keep the
faces of the solar panels clean to improve their efficiency.
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Section 5 : Using the Included Booster Cables
Imagine: It's dark, the power has been out for 2 days and the meat in the freezer
is thawing fast....the wife is freaking out, the sun hasn't been seen in 3 days, and the
power station has been running the fridge and furnace, and is at less than 25% charge.
What do you do now.........?
All of the Quantum Harvest solar power stations greater than 800 watts allow the user to
use an automobile's electrical system to recharge the power station's batteries in an emergency.
I realize that idling a 100+ horsepower engine solely to run the alternator is not very fuel
efficient, but compared to losing the contents of a full freezer, or having the pipes freeze for
lack of heat, a few gallons of gasoline seems a pretty small price!
Models 1500, 2500, 2505, and 3000, due to the size of the battery bank, and the fact that
the batteries are behind a panel, are furnished with a set of cables that conveniently mate with a
corresponding terminal on the control panel. These models also have a unique system to help
prevent crossed polarity, which, again, due to the size of the battery bank, may result in damage
to the vehicle's charging system. Below, you will see the steps necessary to use these features.
Failure to strictly adhere to the following steps may result
in the vehicle's battery exploding, potentially causing
severe injuries to the skin and eyes, and could also result in
very costly damage to your vehicle's electrical system. Eye and hand
protection is mandatory. As I have stated before, batteries, even
relatively flat ones, store enormous amounts of energy that can melt
tools, cause fires, and cause grave personal injuries. Don't be a statistic!
This is why I designed a polarity check system!
A classic example of the “mystery battery
syndrome”!Which is positive? Which is
negative? Not to worry; see below.....
Step1: Be sure the main switch is either in the off
or #1 position! The Polarity Check system is defeated if the
main switch is in either the 1&2 or the #2 position!!
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!WARNING! Every year, people die needlessly
from carbon monoxide poisoning by running
engines or heaters or such inside their homes.
Don't be a statistic! DO NOT run the vehicle's engine inside a
garage with the doors closed!
Step 2: Position the power station a comfortable distance from the vehicle, then, first, plug
the cables into the power station, then affix the clamps to the vehicles battery.
Step 3: Check for correct cable to battery polarity by looking at the LEDs on the control
panel; See below.
Green LED lit indicates polarity is correct.Red LED lit indicates polarity
Turn main switch to position “1 & 2” and is INCORRECT! DO NOT
charge batteries. (Note that the vehicle'sMOVE THE MAIN SWITCH!
engine must be running to actually chargeReverse the clamps positions on
batteries!)the battery.
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Step 4: After confirming the green LED is illuminated, thus ensuring the correct cable to
battery polarity, turn the main switch to position “1 & 2”, and allow the batteries to charge. It is
very important to be sure the vehicle's engine remains running, otherwise you will just end up
with a flat battery in your car, and very, very, slightly charged batteries in the power station!
Be absolutely sure that the green LED is lit before
moving the main switch to the top #1&2 position! If
the switch is moved to this or the #2 position when the red LED
is lit, there will be a dead short between the power station and
the car's electrical system. This will almost certainly do a great
deal of very dramatic and costly damage to both the car and the
power station!
It is perfectly OK to run the inverter to power other loads while the
car is charging the batteries, although it will slow the charging process.
It will probably be necessary to use an extension cord from the power
station, so be sure the cord is of heavy enough construction to carry the
load, is not frayed, and is placed to minimize the tripping hazard.
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Section 6A: Power Board Assembly Removal and Re-
installation
All Quantum Harvest power stations feature a modular construction that allows faulty
components to be easily removed and returned to us for repair, without the necessity of having
to crate up the entire heavy unit and paying the costly shipping charges for a 200+ lb. machine.
This model power station consists of, in addition to the casing and batteries, two such
removable modules; the power assembly, which contains the the inverter, chargers and related
components, and the control panel.
Removal of the power assembly.
Tools Required: 9/16” socket or wrench
Main fuse Inverter Main Power Cord
Step 1: Remove these three knobs.
Step 2: Remove the main fuse, then unplug the inverter main power cord by pulling it toward
the control panel. Lay the heavy black cable up and over the back of the unit to get it out of the
way.
It is absolutely imperative that the main fuse be removed
BEFORE unplugging the main inverter power cord to
preclude any possibility of the prongs being energized while
unplugged
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Step 3: Using the handles provided, pick the entire unit up slightly, move it toward the control
panel slightly to clear the inverter power socket, and pull the rear up to clear the back of the
cabinet, and let it rest there at an angle as shown below to allow you to disconnect the 6 cables
that tie the power assembly to the main unit.
350 amp Anderson
Connector
Step 4: Above, Disconnect the large gray 350 amp connector by pulling it apart as shown.
(Due to it's robust design, it takes a fair amount of effort to disconnect it. It helps to rock one
segment from side to side while pulling it apart.)
Step 5: Below, Disconnect the 4 connectors detailed below.
Charge Controller to Battery Bank
Connector (yellow)
Solar Panel to Charge Controller
Connector (black)
AC Charger to Battery Bank Connector
(2-pin)
AC Charger to Input Jack Connector (3pin)
It is important to note that the yellow connectors go
together, and the black solar panel to charge controller
connectors go together. Be advised that it is possible to cross
these, and doing so may damage the solar charge controller!
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Right; Detail of weather-pak
connector. To disconnect, gently pull
up on the tab to release the catch, and
pull the connector apart. To
reconnect, just push the 2 halves
together until you hear a click.
Step 4: Right:Disconnect the inverter
control cable. (It works the same as a
phone-jack.)
Right, After installation,
be sure the selector switch
on the back of the
inverter is in the
“remote” position to
allow the inverter to be
switched on and off from
the control panel.
The power board may now be removed;
Reverse the above steps to re-install.
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Section 6B: Battery Removal/Re-installation
Tools Required: 11 mm or 7/16” socket or wrench, #2 Phillips screwdriver
*Caution*Although the low voltage at the battery terminals means
that electrical shock or electrocution is impossible, nonetheless,
batteries store an enormous amount of potential energy, that if accidentally
released by a short-circuit, can melt metal tools, start fires and cause personal
injury. Eye protection MUST BE WORN whenever working with batteries of
this size, and extreme care must be exercised at all times. Anything electrical
is unforgiving of mistakes.
Step 1: Remove power assembly.
(Pages 18-19)
Step 2: Right; Remove the 6 bolts (3
to a side) from the shelf support
assembly.
Step 3: Right; Fold the shelf support as
shown and remove. Be careful that it
does not touch the battery terminals and
cause a short-circuit.
(NOTE: When reinstalling. The shelf
support, the slat with the single hole
goes toward the rear of the cabinet)
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Step 4: Right;Press the release on the blue battery
retention straps, pull up enough slack to unhook the
strap end from the ring on the front of the battery
compartment.
Buckle release lever
Attachment ring location
Step 5: Right; Disconnect the
red connectors by pulling the two
halves straight apart. Remove the
batteries
Battery Installation Instructions
*Caution*Although the low voltage at the battery terminals
means that electrical shock or electrocution is impossible,
nonetheless, batteries store an enormous amount of potential energy, that if
accidentally released by a short-circuit, can melt metal tools, start fires and
cause personal injury. Eye protection MUST BE WORN whenever working
with batteries of this size, and extreme care must be exercised at all times.
Anything electrical is unforgiving of mistakes.
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Things to note before starting:
Be careful with any metal tools that you do not inadvertently short between
terminals. Remove any metal jewelry from your hands and avoid loose metal
necklaces or such that may droop down and short between adjacent terminals.
Work slowly and carefully, and wear eye protection at all times.
Be wary of applying excessive force; things should slide in and together
smoothly. If something seems to go hard, it is most likely caught up on
something or started crooked.
Battery re-installation is the reverse
of removal, except that the first
battery must be slid in under the
inverter main power socket, then the
remaining 3 batteries may be placed
in the cabinet.
Right; The attachment point for the hinge-side battery strap is
partially concealed by the soft-start module.
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Section 6C: Soft-start Module removal/replacement
Tools needed: #2 Phillips screwdriver
Step 1: Remove the power board. (Pages 21-22)
Step 2: Remove the batteries. (Pages 23-24)
Step 3: Below, Disconnect the 2 cords (red circle), and the 2-pin connector, (green circle).
Step 3: Right, Remove the 4 screws
on the hinge-side of the cabinet, and
remove the soft-start module.
Reverse the above steps to re-install.
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Section 6D: Control Panel Removal/Replacement
The only reason this assembly would have to be removed is for repair.
Tools needed: 11/16” socket or wrench; 9/16” socket or wrench; 3/8” wrench; #2
Phillips screwdriver
Step 1: Remove the power board. (Pages 21-22)
Step 2: Remove the batteries. (Pages 23-24)
Step 3: Right; Using an 11/16”
socket or wrench, remove the nut
indicated, and remove the left
cable.
Step 4: Right and below
right;Remove the nuts from the
red and black terminals indicated,
and remove the battery wiring
harness.
View below shows more detail for the
terminals location
Note that there are a total of 7 connections
to the control panel in addition to the 3
battery cables detailed above in steps 3 and
4. (Highlighted by the red circles)
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Step 5: Right;Remove the screw
indicated.
Step 6: Right;Disconnect the 120 volt
connector shown here.
Step 7: Right; Disconnect the power
wire from the 220 volt transformer
feed contactor.
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Step 8: Right, and Below;Disconnect the DC supply connector for the soft-start module and
the cord that connects the soft-starter to the control panel 220 volt outlet.
Do not remove these 2 nuts.
Step 9: Above; Remove only the 2 acorn nuts indicated, lift the control panel up off the studs
and remove it from the case.
Reverse the above steps to re-install.
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Troubleshooting
ProblemPossible Solution
Inverter will not start, main switch is on andBatteries are flat and must be recharged.
meter indicates 10.5 volts or less.
Inverter will not start, main switch is on andIs selector switch on back of inverter
meter reads greater than 11 volts.switched to the “remote” position?
(Page 23)
Main switch is on, but nothing works;Main fuse blown. (Page 7)
meter has no reading.
Solar panels are connected, in sunlight, Are both circuit-breakers for the solar
but meter indicates 0 charging amps. charge controller in the “on” position?
No LEDs lit on solar charge controller.(Page 9)
Water pump does not run; main switch is on, Can you hear a faint hum under the
meter reads more than 11 volts and control panel? If not, is the
inverter LEDs are green.220 volt system toggle switch on?
If the switch is on and you can hear the
transformer humming, then is the 220
volt circuit breaker on the control panel
switched on? If so, the soft-start module
may be at fault. Bypass it using the
instructions on page 37.
Contact Information
Email: support@quantumharvest.net
Quantum Harvest, LLC
89 Chapman Ridge Rd.
Athens, ME 04912
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Warranty Information
All Quantum Harvest power station base units and mobile solar panel units are warranted to be
free of defects in materials and workmanship for:
Batteries, if provided by us.......................................................................1 year
Inverters, AC chargers and solar charger/controllers...........................3 years
Everything else, including solar panels...................................................5 years
To obtain warranty service, contact us at: support@quantumharvest.net for instructions.
We will assist in diagnosing the affected component(s), and furnish an RMA. Shipping both
ways is on us. You won't pay a cent for warranty service.
In addition to the above warranty, we are so confident of our
products, we will never, as long as you own it, charge you labor for
repairs. Even after the warranty period, if a component fails or gets
damaged, just contact us at the above email address, and we will assist in
diagnosing the problem and either arrange to send you the part at cost,
or have you ship us the affected module, where we will diagnose the
problem and contact you with the cost of the replacement part(s). You
will pay what we pay, no more.
What is NOT COVERED under the warranty:
Physical damage to the solar panels, including, but not limited to; broken glass or broken or
bent parts. If this unit falls out of a truck at 65 mph and goes bouncing down the road, one can
hardly expect the manufacturer to fix it for free!
Physical damage to the power station itself. It weighs over 200 lbs.! If it gets dropped off a
tailgate, it is going to be damaged.
Water damage to the internal components of the power station.
Damage caused by improper use of the booster cables. If someone turns on the inverter with the
cables connected improperly to the vehicle, it will blow the main capacitors. (Believe me, I will
know what happened when I see the inverter!) Obviously, if this happens, we won't fix the car,
either!
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Page 37
Addendum A
Solar Panel Diode Replacement
Note that each panel has a diode junction box, thus, the 300 watt triple panel
assembly has 3 boxes and 6 diodes in total.
To gain access to the blocking
diodes, remove the cover by
inserting a thin-bladed screwdriver
into the slot and gently prying
inward to release the catch. Repeat
for all 4 latches.
Diodes (2 per panel)
Using a pair of wire-cutters,
carefully clip the diode leads to
free the old diodes, and discard.
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Page 38
Loosen the 3 screws, and slip the
replacement diodes in as shown. It is
VERY IMPORTANT to orient the
diodes properly. The silver stripe goes
in the direction of the arrow. Snug the
screws back up, being very careful not
to strip the threads. Replace the cover
and snap it into place
Silver stripe
Screws
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Page 39
Addendum B
Bypassing a malfunctioning Soft-start Module.
In the event that the soft-start module fails, it may be bypassed by plugging the cord for the 220
volt receptacle on the control panel directly into the 220 feed from the transformer. Procedure
is outlined below.
Step 1; Remove the main fuse and place the heavy black cable over the back of the cabinet out
of the way. Disconnect the inverter main power cable.
Step 2; Pick up the power board and lay it partially out of the cabinet as shown on the top
photo on page 24. This allows access to the 220 volt system power cords.
Step 3; Disconnect the power feed line from the control panel's 220 volt outlet from the socket
from the soft-start module. (Red circle) Disconnect the cord from the 220 volt supply box.
(Green circle), now, connect the cord from the control panel directly into the 220 volt supply
box. Replace the power board and main fuse.
37
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