Nixie clock type ‘Frank 2’ is a compact design with all components
and tubes mounted on a single PCB. The efficient use of board
space is achieved by using a multiplex design to drive the display
tubes. Only a single high-voltage binary-to-decimal decode r IC
(74141) is required, and each tube is switched on in sequence very
quickly to give the illusion that all the tubes are actually lit.
The tubes are type IN-16 with a digit height of 13mm. These tubes
are Russian in origin and were produced during the 1980’s and
1990’s, when the technology was at it’s most advanced. It is
expected that the tubes will last for many years and should not
need replacing.
1.2Clock Features
Nixie clock type ‘Frank 2’ has the following features:
- Hours, Minutes and Seconds display
- Uses the mains AC as the timebase
- Selectable to work with 50Hz (Europe) or 60Hz (Americas)
- Simple time setting using two buttons
- 12 or 24 hour modes
- Programmable leading zero blanking
- Five programmable neon colon settings (Flashing AM/PM
indication, illuminated AM/PM indication, both flashing, both on,
both off)
- Maintains time during setup mode, eg. When changing between
Standard Time and Daylight Savings Time
- Seconds can be reset to zero to make small adjustments /
precisely set time
- Infintely programmable night time blanking period to save tubes.
- Separate modes for colon neons during night time blanking
- Four display modes: Dim, Bright, Fading digits, Blanked
- Ten different possible fade speeds in fading digit mode
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1.3 SAFETY
DANGER: The clock pcb includes a switched-mode voltage booster
circuit. This generates nominally 170 Volts DC, but is capable o f
generating up to 300 Volts before adjustment. Assembly may only be
undertaken by individuals who are suitably qualified and experienced in
electronics assembly, and are familiar with safe procedures for working
with high voltages. If in doubt, refer to a suitably qualified engineer
before proceeding.
The voltages generated by this circuit can give a potentially
LETHAL ELECTRIC SHOCK.
DISCLAIMER: This product is supplied as a kit of parts, intended only for
suitably qualified electronic engineers, who are suitably qualified and
experienced in electronics assembly, and are familiar with safe
procedures for working with high voltages. The supplier, his agents or
associates accept no liability for any damage, injury or death arising from
the use of this kit of parts.
This is not a finished product, and the person assembling the kit is
responsible for ensuring that the finished product complies with any
applicable local regulations governing electrical equipment, eg. UL, CE,
VDE.
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2. TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT REQUIRED
2.1 Tools required to assemble the PCB
The following tools will be required to assemble the PCB:
- Soldering iron with a small tip (1-2 mm)
- Wire cutters (TIP: A small pair of nail clippers works very well
for this function)
- Wire strippers (TIP: A small pair of scissors is quite suitable)
- Multimeter
- Small flat screwdriver for adjusting the high voltage supply
2.2 Materials you will need
Solder – lead / tin solder is preferred. Lead – free solder, as now
required to be used in commercial products in Europe, has a much
higher melting point and can be very hard to work with.
Desoldering wick (braid) can be useful if you accidentally create
solder bridges between adjacent solder joints.
2.3 Other items you will need
The clock kit does not include a power adapter. This is because the
kit is sold to many countries around the world, each with very
different household mains outlet socket types. It is more efficient
for the user to buy a suitable adapter locally. This saves shipping a
heavy adapter with the kit, and also the extra costs of managing
stocks of many varied power adapters.
The type of power adapter can be obtained at very low cost. The
following type of adapter should be obtained and used with the kit:
Mains AC to AC adapter (This is important, as the AC signal is
needed for the timebase)
Output 9-12V AC
Minimum power output capability of 250 mA
Output plug: 2.1mm pin
A suitable adapter is shown in figure 1 below:
5.6V Zener Diode 1
Integrated Circuits
78L05 5V voltage regulator 1
NE555 Timer IC 1
PIC16F628A 8 bit Microcontroller 1
74141 / K155N Nixie driver 1
Miscellaneous
100uH – 470uH Inductor 1
Nixie tube 6
Miniature push button 2
1K Potentiometer 1
4mm Wire ended neon 2
PCB 1
IC Socket, 18 way DIL 1
2.1mm PCB Power socket 1
It is recommended that the kit is checked against the list above, to
ensure all parts are present before commencing assembly.
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3.3 How to identify the correct components
Resistors:
The resistors are easy to identify by the coloured bands
across the cylindrical body. Using a multimeter it should will
be possible very quickly to identify the different values.
Capacitors:
Take care when identifying the 2 small ceramic or polyester
capacitors. Depending on part availability, 2 or more different
types may be supplied. The 22nF capacitors (C4, C6) may be
marked 22nF, 22n, or 223.
Transistors:
Transistors:
The MOSFET Q2 can easily be identified as it has a large
metal heatsink. Note: Due to part availability, this part may
be substituted for a different but equivalent part number so
the part marking may not necessarily be ‘IRF730’
Diodes:
The four 1N4001 diodes D1-D4 are black and are marked
1N4001. 1N4007 diodes may be supplied instead. They are
identical for this circuit. The other black diode is D5, and
again due to part availability it may be substituted for an
equivalent.
Inductor L1
The inductor is a coil winding on a ferrite core and may or
may not be finished with a heatshrink sleeve depending on
part availability
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4. ASSEMBLY OF THE PCB
4.1 Diodes D1-D4
Start by bending the leads of the four diodes to approximately
match the spacing of the holes on the PCB. Insert the four diodes
taking care to match up the white bands on the components with
the component marking on the PCB. See Figure 2 below.
Figure 2
Solder in the diodes, then using the wire clippers trim off the leads.
4.2 Diode D5
D5 is the remaining black diode. Again noting the position of the
white band, place in position, solder in and trim the leads.
Figure 3
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4.3IC2 and C4
IC2 must be oriented correctly. The notch or dot at one end
corresponds to pin 1. This goes into the SQUARE pad. Also place
and solder in C4.
4.4 IC1 and Q1
IC1 and Q1 look very similar, so be careful to identify them
correctly by the white marking on each component. The leads
should not need to be formed, just separated a little. Align the flat
of the body of these components with the marked flat on the PCB.
Push each component into it’s holes until the body is just 2 mm
from the pcb. Solder in and trim the leads.
Figure 4:
IC2 and C4
Figure 5: Q1 (left) and IC1 (right)
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p
4.5 MOSFET Q2
The board is very densely populated in this area. Depending on
your chosen case design, you may wish to bend the leads as shown
in figure 6, to make the profile lower.
4.6 R1, R2, R3, R4, R5
These resistors, indeed all the resistors on the board need to be
mounted upright to save space. The leads need to be formed as
shown in figure 7. Bent the leads of each resistor as shown and
solder in to the correct postion, making sure the component body
is as close to the board as possible.
Figure 6:
Bending the leads of
MOSFET Q2 to lower the
rofile of the board.
Figure 8: R1 to R5 placed vertically
Figure 7: Resistor
leads formed for
mounting upright.
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4.7 Variable Resistor VR1
VR1 is used to tune the switched mode power supply to give the
optimum voltage to drive the Nixie tubes (170-180V).
4.8 Inductor L1
Place L1 in position, and ensure it is as close to the board as
possible. The leads of the component may not match exactly the
spacing on the board – this is perfectly normal. You can slightly
form the leads so it is a nice firm and snug fit to the board. Solder
and trim the leads as short as possible.
Figure 9 showing VR1
Figure 10
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4.9 C1, C2, C3 and C5
Now it is time to solder in these four electrolytic capacitors. These
components must be placed the correct way round or else the
circuit will fail. Each capacitor has a positive lead, which has the
longer lead, and a negative lead, marked by a white or grey stripe
on the body. In Figure 11, the longer lead (+ve) and white stripe
(-VE) can be clearly seen.
Figure 11: Electrolytic capacitors
Place each component as shown in figure 12 below, with the longer
lead in the hole marked ‘+’. Solder in and trim the leads.
Figure 12: Electrolytic capacitors placed on the PCB
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4.9 Power Connector CONN1
Place the power connector in position (figure 13), and solder in
place. Try not to use too much solder which could flood through
and cause shorts. Just lightly solder each tab to one side of it’s hole
(figure 14).
Figure 13: CONN1 Figure 14: Underside view of CONN1
4.10 Testing the Switched mode (170V) and regulated (5V)
power supplies.
If you have reached this point and followed the correct order, then
all the components for the 170V and 5V power supplies should now
be on the board, and it is recommended that at this point the
power supplies are tested before proceeding. To do so , you will
need to have the 9-12V AC power adapter to hand. Also at this
stage you will need a small flat blade screwdriver and a
multimeter.
DANGER: At this point, observe the safety warnings in section 1.3.
When powered up, the board will generate up to 300V DC, and live
parts are exposed. Observe high-voltage precautions.
4.10.1 Testing the power supplies
First, check that the 5V supply is in order. Use the GND, 5V and
170V test points to test first the 5V supply, then the 170V
supply. Adjust the position of VR1 until the voltage is 170V. Be
sure to set your multimeter to DC setting.
When all is in order, disconnect the power supply. Take care, as
the output capacitor can still hold charge at 170V after the
supply is disconnected.
4.11 Socket for IC3, IC4.
Insert the 18 Way IC socket into the PCB, ensuring that the notch
at one end is aligned with the corresponding mark on the PCB.
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Insert IC4 directly into the PCB. Solder both components in place,
but do NOT insert IC3 at this stage. This will be inserted at the
very end of the assembly. Refer to figure 15.
4.12 R24-R29, C6, D6, Q15, Q16
The lead pitch of C6 may not match exactly the pitch of the holes
on the PCB. If so, bend the leads sufficiently to insert the
component. D6 needs to be placed the correct way round, so
ensure the black band on the component body aligns with the band
on the PCB marking.
4.13 Q3-Q8, Q9-Q14, R6-R23
This is perhaps the most time consuming stage of the assembly.
There are six anode driver clusters. The function of each is to take
the logic output from the 5V microcontroller, and switch on the
170V Anode drive to the respective nixie tube.
Pay particular attention to installing the correct transistor type
(MPSA42 or MPSA92) in the correct location.
4.14 Nixie tubes IN-16
To facilitate easy insertion of the flying leads into the small holes, it
helps enormously to trim the flying leads with a pair of scissors as
shown in figure 17. Start by identifying the anodes on the tubes as
shown in figure 16. It is the lead directly at the BACK of the tube,
and has a white coating where it enters the tube.
Figure 15: Socket
for IC3, and IC4
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Figure 16: IN-16
Anode at the back
of the tube
Then, working around the tube, cut each sucessive lead approx
2mm shorter than the previous one. This will allow you to feed
each lead into the PCB in turn.
Figure 17: IN-16
flying leads trimmed
to aid insertion into
the PCB
Now you can insert and solder in the tubes, one at a time.
PLACE THE TUBES ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE PCB TO THE
COMPONENTS!!
Feed all the wires in progressively. It is not as hard as it seems at
first. After soldering in, trim flying leads.
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Ensure you start with the Anode of each tube in the correct hole,
right at the back of the PCB. See figure 18.
Figure 18
4.15 SW1, SW2.
Push buttons SW1 and SW2 are mounted on the component side of
the PCB, so that the clock is adjusted from the back (tubes are on
the non-component side). You can also choose to mount them on
the front face if you wish, depending on your own particular clock
case design.
4.16 NE1, NE2.
The two neons can be installed either now. Set at a height
appropriate for the case you will be using.
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5. FINAL TESTING OF PCB
All components should now have been installed. Make a final check
that all components are well soldered in, and that there are no solder
bridges – unintentional solder links between adjacent pins.
Insert IC3, matching up the notch on the resin body with the notch on
the socket and the PCB markings.
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6. HOW TO OPERATE THE CLOCK
The two buttons have the following functions:
SW1: Set
SW2: Up / Reset Seconds
Entering configuration mode:
The principal settings of the clock are stored in flash memory – your
preferred configuration is stored even after powering off the clock. To
access the configuration mode press and hold the ‘Set’ button. After 2
seconds the minutes will start to flash. Continue holding the button a
further 2 seconds until the clock displays in this format: 01 --
00
In onfiguration mode the hours digits diplay the current parameter being
adjusted, and the seconds digits display the current value stored against
the parameter.
For each parameter, and referring to the table below, scroll through the
range of possible values by pressing the ‘Up’ button. When the desired
value has been reached, move on to the next parameter by pressing the
‘Set’ button. When the last parameter has been set, pressing ‘Set’ one
more time will revert the clock back to time display mode.
Parameter Description Values
1 AC timebase 0 – 60 Hz (default)
1 – 50 Hz
2 12 / 24 Hr mode 0 – 12 Hr (default)
1 – 24 Hr
3 Leading zero blanking 0 – leading zero blanked (default)
0 – AM/PM Indication, flashing (default)
1 – AM/PM Indication, illuminated
2 – Both flash
3 – Both illuminated
4 – Both off
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Setting the time:
From time display mode, press and hold ‘Set’ button for 2 seconds until
the minutes digits start to flash.
Press the ‘Up / Reset Secs’ button to set the minutes.
Briefly Press ‘Set’ again and the hours will flash. Press the ‘Up / Reset
Secs’ button to set the hours.
Briefly Press ‘Set’ again to revert to normal clock operation.
Resetting seconds:
From time display mode, press and hold ‘Up / Reset Secs’ button for 2
seconds. Seconds will be set to zero, and held until the button is
released.
Setting the display mode:
From time display mode, briefly press ‘Set’ button to toggle between the
four display modes:
Dim, standard change of digits
Bright, standard change of digits
Bright, Fading digits
Blanked display, tubes are switched off
Night Blanking:
During programmed night blanking, the blanking may be overridden to
see the time by briefly pressing the ‘Set’ button. Tubes will remain lit
until the next programmed blanking period.
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7. CIRCUIT DIAGRAM
Nixie Tube Clock ‘Frank 2 IN-16’
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