PSB CHS212, SubSonic10, SubSonic8, SubSonic9 Owner's Manual

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Owner’s Manual
FRFR Guide d’utilisationFRFR Guide d’utilisation
ESPESP
ESPESP
Manual del Propietario
CONTENTS
I.
Important Safety Instructions
II.
Introduction
III.
Warranty Registration
IV.
Cabinet Care
V.
Room Acoustics, Subwoofer Placement, Multiple Subwoofers and Setting the Controls
Quick Start
VI.
VII.
Features, Controls, AC Power
Sub Volume Control (Figure 1)
A. B.
On Indicator Light (Figure 1) AC Power Connection
C. D.
Sub Cut-Off Frequency Control (Figure 1)
E.
Phase Switch (Figure 2) LFE Input/Crossover Bypass Switch (Figure 2)
F. G.
Low/Line Level Jacks (Figure 2)
H.
High/Speaker Level Terminals (Figure 2)
I.
Power Switch (Figure 2) Amplifier Panel (Figure 2)
J.
AC Power Socket (Figure 2)
K. L.
External Fuse (Figure 2)
VIII.
Connecting The Subwoofer To Your Audio System
Connecting Home Theater Equipment
A.
Connecting Stereo Equipment Using Low/Line Level
B.
Connecting Stereo Equipment With High/Speaker Level
C.
Using Multiple Subwoofers
D.
Set-up Calibration
IX.
X.
In Case Of Problems
Specifications
XI.
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IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
10.
11.
12.
13.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Read these instructions.
Keep these instructions.
Heed all warnings.
Follow all instructions.
Do not use this apparatus near water.
Clean only with dry cloth.
Do not block any ventilation openings. Install in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
Do not install near any heat sources such as radiators, heat registers, stoves, or other apparatus (including amplifiers) that produce heat.
Do not defeat the safety purpose of the polarized or grounding-type plug. A polarized plug has two blades with one wider than the other. A grounding type plug has two blades and a third grounding prong. The wide blade or the third prong is provided for your safety. If the provided plug does not fit into your outlet, consult an electrician for replacement of the obsolete outlet.
Protect the power cord from being walked on or pinched particularly at plugs, convenience receptacles, and the point where they exit from the apparatus.
Only use attachments/accessories specified by the manufacturer.
Unplug this apparatus during lightning storms or when unused for long periods of time.
Refer all servicing to qualified service personnel. Servicing is required when the apparatus has been damaged in any way, such as power-supply cord or plug is damaged, liquid has been spilled or objects have fallen into the apparatus, the apparatus has been exposed to rain or moisture, does not operate normally, or has been dropped.
14.
15.
16.
WARNING: To reduce the risk of fire or electric shock, this apparatus should not be exposed to rain or moisture and objects filled with liquids, such as vases, should not be placed on this apparatus.
To completely disconnect this equipment from the mains, disconnect the power supply cord plug from the receptacle.
The mains plug of the power supply cord shall remain readily operable.
The lightning flash with arrowhead symbol within an equilateral triangle is intended to alert the user to the presence of uninsulated "dangerous voltage” within the product's enclosure that may be of sufficient magnitude to constitute a risk of electric shock to persons.
The exclamation point within an equilateral triangle is intended to alert the user to the presence of important operating and maintenance (servicing) instructions in the literature accompanying the product.
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II. Introduction
PSB subwoofers are designed to provide the flattest possible frequency response, full bass extension, low distortion and high output. Frankly, these are characteristics that most manufacturers would strive for. Our years of experience and our sophisticated design and measurement tools allow us to achieve ideal subwoofer performance. Beyond these characteristics there are a few other parameters that we uniquely feel are very important in the design of a subwoofer. First and foremost it is important to us that a PSB subwoofer be musical. In this era of home theater this might at first seem out of step, but we believe that a musical subwoofer will also sound the most natural when playing movie soundtracks. Furthermore, an ideal subwoofer should have the ability to play musically even under conditions of overload or stress. No subwoofer is so large with its limits so great that it can never be overloaded, especially with modern movie soundtracks. For this reason PSB subwoofers incorporate very intelligently applied proprietary limiting circuitry to prevent audible overload.
The limiting circuitry of all PSB subwoofers is a combination of peak limiting circuits that hold amplifier signal swing to the point just short of the amplifiers clipping, and compression circuitry that will come in under conditions of long term overload and reduce the amplifiers gain. The trick is to apply these circuits in such a way that they don't squeeze the life out of the music or movie soundtrack, to allow the dynamics to get through while preventing gross distortion. We do this by being mindful of the dynamics of music and carefully tailoring the time constants of the circuits to that of music. For example, it is known that most music is performed with a beat of 80 to 140 beats per minute. Our test signals are configured to follow this timing and allow maximum transient effect without distorting on sustained tones.
We go to great lengths to reduce any mechanical noises our subwoofers may make. Woofers are designed never to bottom harshly. Ports have large radius end flares to reduce noise from turbulence. Cabinets and amplifiers are designed so that no air leaks (which can contribute minute amounts of noise) are possible. All of our designs are exhaustively tested. A subwoofers design isn't complete until the sub's amp and woofer can survive a 15 hour test of being driven continuously to maximum output.
SubSonic 8, SubSonic 9, SubSonic 10
As in all other current SubSonic series subwoofers, these subwoofers utilize a high efficiency high power class H power amp. Class H is a special high efficiency amplifier design. Briefly, audio amplifiers are inherently inefficient because they are designed to have the capability of delivering great output power yet spend most of their life delivering fairly low power. Their output devices must deliver current while withstanding the high power supply “rail” voltages needed for peak outputs. With a Class H design the rail voltages are not constant. They swing high when the music demands it and stay low during quiet passages. This is achieved by a sophisticated high frequency switching power supply. Power dissipated as heat is greatly reduced and more power is available per dollar of cost. A second benefit is that they tend to have high peak power relative to their steady state power. The SubSonic 10, for example, has 500 watts continuous but is capable of over 750 watt peaks. The result is a subwoofer capable of the great transients required by dynamic music and explosive sound effects. The SubSonic 8, 9 and 10 offer the latest most efficient implementation of this special Class H technology.
The SubSonic 10 cabinet is constructed from 1” thick MDF. This material and its application in this design forms an extremely rigid cabinet free of any audible resonances due to panel or brace movement. Large curvilinear ports with large radius flanges drastically reduce port noise to inaudible levels while minimizing acoustic compression common to smaller diameter port designs. Air will create noise whenever it comes into contact with a hard surface. Minimizing the area of the surface that the air actually comes in contact with reduces this noise.
The dual opposing woofer design drastically reduces cabinet vibrations. During woofer cone travel, an opposite­direction force is exerted on a single woofer cabinet. This force attempts to move the cabinet backward. By mounting the second woofer in a directly opposite position, the two opposing forces nullify each other and no energy is lost due to these forces acting on the cabinet. The effect is easily demonstrable. Crank up your SubSonic 8/9/10 and put your hand on the cabinet. It's acoustically dead!
Severe duty aluminum cast baskets, very large magnet structures, and high power voice coils allow the SubSonic 9 and 10 to effortlessly churn out low frequencies at foundation shaking levels. The SubSonic 9 and 10 woofer's low mass fiberglass cone increases efficiency while it's rigidity practically eliminates cone flexing.
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CHS212 (CustomSound™ Series)
The CHS212 is a custom installation subwoofer counterpart to our highly regarded SubSonic 10. Many high end home theater systems have most of their components, including the speaker, hidden away in cabinets. While this hides the clutter it can be detrimental to performance unless the effects of the equipment cabinet are taken into account. The same high power/high travel 12” woofers are used with the same 500 watt continuous, 750 watt peak amplifier. The cabinet has been optimized for in-cabinet use.
The cabinet is much simpler than that of the SS10 with no extra cosmetic details that would be wasted when built into another cabinet. A tough texture paint cabinet is used with dimensions chosen to fit within most equipment cabinets. One 12” unit is front firing while the second unit is mounted on the bottom of the cabinet and is down firing. This assures that both the drivers and the two port tubes are all tightly clustered and that all bass energy will have no problem exiting the equipment cabinet.
Whichever PSB subwoofer you have chosen, we hope that you appreciate the attention to detail that has gone into its design and, of course, that you enjoy using it. Please take the time to read the following sections about the placement of your subwoofer, and its connections and adjustments.
III. Warranty Registration
We recommend you take a few moments now to register your warranty, preferably on-line at psbspeakers.com/w/Warranty.html or via the enclosed registration form so that we will be able to serve you better in the future.
Unpacking
The packing materials of your PSB Platinum Series speakers are designed to protect them from damage during shipping. Retain the packaging in case the need arises to transport the speakers in the future.
Cabinet Care
IV.
Cabinets have varying materials and finishes, including wood veneers and painted cast anodized aluminum parts. They should be treated as you would any fine furniture with similar finishes. Dust lightly with a soft cloth; avoiding abrasives. If necessary, wipe carefully with a cloth slightly dampened with glass cleaner to remove heavy soil.
Grilles and Ports
A lint brush does a good job of cleaning grilles. Grilles can be taken off and vacuumed if you prefer. If need be, you can use a lint brush to clean ports. Avoid touching speaker diaphragms.
V. Room Acoustics, Speaker Placement, Multiple Subwoofers and Setting Controls
Room Acoustics
If you are critical about low-frequency response, there's quite a bit of useful experimentation you can do, especially in combination with the crossover, level, and phase controls of our subwoofers.
Since the earliest days of high fidelity, one of the main challenges for the designers of speakers, and of their users, has been management of the lowest frequencies—the deep bass. Many of the most notable developments in speaker design have been made with a view to getting more bass output from smaller boxes.
One consideration is the size of the listening room. The larger the volume of air a speaker must excite, the more acoustic output you will require from it to achieve the sound levels you want. In any environment, sounds attenuate as you move farther away from their source, but in smaller rooms that tends to be offset by reinforcement from wall reflections. The larger the space is, the farther the sound has to travel both to reach the reflecting surfaces and then to get to your ears, which means it has to be louder to begin with.
With traditional full-range speakers, that involves an intricate matching act between amplifier power, speaker sensitivity, impedance and power handling. But the bulk of the power goes to reproducing bass, so the use of powered subwoofers and separate midrange/treble satellites both allows you to be conservative in the amount of
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power your main amplifier produces, and ensures a good match between the low-frequency amplifier and the woofer it is paired with.
After size, the most important aspect of a listening room is its shape. In any room, sound reflects off the walls, ceiling, and floor. If the distance between two opposite parallel surfaces is a simple fraction of the wavelength of a particular frequency, notes of that frequency will bounce back and forth in perfect phase—an effect called a standing wave or room mode.
At some point in the room, this note will be reinforced substantially; at others it will cancel out almost entirely. If the prime listening seat is placed at either of these locations, the note will be a horrible boom or virtually non­existent. The standing waves are different between floor and ceiling, side walls, and end walls, unless any of these dimensions are the same. An ideal listening room would have no parallel surfaces—an unusual situation, to say the least—so that such waves would not establish themselves. The worst kind of room is a perfect cube.
Almost all rooms are susceptible to some standing waves at low frequencies, but their effects can be minimized by careful positioning of both the speakers and the listening seat. Moving either of these even a few inches is sometimes enough to cure—or create—an intolerable sound. The only way to find out what works best is by experimentation.
With full-range speakers, the range of places you can put the speakers and still get proper imaging may be fairly limited, and some of these positions may result in standing waves that can't be tamed. Things are more controllable through the use of a subwoofer or two. Positioning of the bass speakers has almost no impact on imaging, so a subwoofer can be located with only standing waves in mind
Subwoofer Placement
There is no argument among audiophiles that the loudest bass output from a subwoofer comes from corner placement. The natural megaphone-like flaring outward of walls from a room corner focuses low frequencies—giving them no place to go but toward you. In the case of subwoofers, there is no automatic penalty in giving overall balance for this maximal bass, since your main speakers can be located elsewhere. It still may be too much bass for your room or (more particularly) your favorite listening spot in the room, but unless you are seated in a “null” spot, where sound from the sub is cancelled or diminished by out-of-phase reflections from elsewhere, there should be plenty of bass from corner placement.
PSB Subwoofer
PSB Subwoofer
Most bass output; least even bass response
Moderate bass output; more even bass response
PSB Subwoofer
Lowest bass output; most even bass response
If you are seated in such a null spot, your only real choices are generally to move either the subwoofer or your listening position until bass returns to the point that satisfies. Cranking up the level control or changing the crossover point almost certainly won't help much. But flipping the phase control 180 degrees sometimes may make a difference, especially if the null is a product of cancellations caused by interaction with low frequencies from your main speakers.
If you are in the opposite sort of situation, where direct and reflected bass waves converge in phase and produce a strong peak at your listening location, you can—if you like—deal with that both with changes in placement or in the position of your sub's level control (or, less likely but possible, the crossover frequency chosen). We say “if you like” because there is no such thing as too much bass for some listeners, and we don't want to be dogmatic. You are definitely the one who has to be pleased, unless your Significant Other chimes in to the contrary.
As you go outward from the corner along one wall or another, the general consensus (with which we tend to agree)
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is that while bass output diminishes somewhat, it also becomes more uniform throughout the room, with fewer of the “standing waves” that produce peaks and nulls at various points.
Chances are things won't be so simple, so the best method for positioning a subwoofer, although a rather undignified-looking one, is to put the subwoofer in your listening chair, then play music with lots of bass through the system something with steady low frequencies (such as organ music) or continuous test tones, not movie material. Move around the room and note where the bass sounds best; if you place the subwoofer there and yourself in your chair, you should get the same bass performance. Bear in mind that the test only works if you have your ears as high off the floor as the subwoofer will be, so don't be afraid to crawl around. A recommended starting point for the placement of this subwoofer would be in either of the front corners of the room (on either side of the main speakers).
Although the CHS212 can be placed anywhere within the room, as described above, it will frequently be mounted within a cabinet or “wall unit” intended for hiding away the components of your home theater. When cabinet mounted a few extra details must be attended too. The woofers on the CHS212 are placed on the front face and the underneath so that they are closest to a “sonic exit” of the cabinet. The cabinet may have a front door with a grille (cloth or latticework). It may also have a solid front as long as a substantial slot (typically 4” by 17” or more) is near the woofers. The best location for this slot would be at floor level in line with the area to the front of the cabinet and between the woofer cabinet legs. An inch or so of space between the front firing woofer and the cabinet front will create enough of a channel for the bass to get down to a floor level slot.
If the CHS212 is within a cabinet, special attention should be given to preventing rattles from strong bass tones. Rattles can be found by repeatedly playing a selection with a variety of strong sustained bass tones. Action movies with a lot of LFE (low frequency effects) content can be helpful as well. With the other speakers down, turn the level up to the highest level likely to be encountered and listen closely for rattles. If they occur, find the cabinet panels that are causing the rattle. Usually a joint or contact area between two surfaces is vibrating and this is the cause of the rattle. Some foam tape or the commonly available self adhesive felt discs, placed between the offending surfaces will damp the rattle. Absorptive material, such as fiberglass, may help damp internal resonances of the cabinet's cavities, but it will need to be quite thick to have significant effect. Filling the full cavity above the subwoofer can give a significant improvement, just be sure that the woofers and their bass exit path are not obstructed. Although it normally runs cool, be especially sure that any heat generated by the rear amplifier has an exit path and that no materials are in contact with its metal surfaces.
Multiple Subwoofers—Why Two Subs Are Better Than One
Since the objective of most people who buy subs is to make sure of plentiful low frequencies, the only situation most of us will run into that makes subwoofer placement really difficult is the factor we all fear—the “bad” room that just won't let you get satisfying amounts or quality of bass. There are rooms with troublesome dimensions, especially as you approach a perfect cube (with a closed door). There is unlikely to be any combination of speaker and listener position that will be free of obvious acoustic anomalies.
In such a case, the best way to iron out those anomalies is with two subwoofers, placed carefully to work with each other. This can also be true when the problem is too much, or too uneven, bass. The overall system needs all the help it can get, and that often means the use of two subwoofers, each one of which corrects for the acoustic problems excited by the other. For excellent results from this solution, the two subs don't have to be identical. It may be fine, in fact, to use two lesser subs to equal the performance of one with stronger specs.
The same “crawl around the room” method as previously described should be used for determining the location of the second subwoofer, except in this instance one is listening for the minimum amount of bass output. This is a recommended starting point for determining the best placement for your subwoofer(s).
Setting the Subwoofer Controls
Once a reasonably smooth response has been achieved by careful positioning of the subwoofers, the overall performance can be fine-tuned by means of the controls found on the speaker. An important one is the low-pass filter, which controls the upper limit of the subwoofer's frequency range. This should be set high enough to overlap the low frequency cutoff of the satellite speakers, but not high enough to localize specific sounds from the sub.
If the frequency response of your satellite speakers is such that the subwoofer's low-pass filter must be set higher
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than about 80Hz in order to avoid gaps in the overall system response, then you might well be able to localize specific sounds from the sub. This can be very distracting when these sounds appear to come from beside or behind you. One solution is to make sure the subwoofer is in the front of the listening area; another is to use multiple subwoofers to make such sounds more diffuse.
Subwoofers also offer a phase control so the upper frequencies they produce will not cancel out the lower frequencies of the satellites. A judicious tweaking of this control can pay major dividends in spectral smoothness in the crossover area. Phase changes with frequency, however, so these controls may need readjusting every time you vary the cutoff frequency.
Also adjustable is the overall level of the subwoofer's output. Many users tend to set this too high at first, in an effort to achieve truly impressive bass. Again, smooth response is the aim, and it may well be that, if you use them, two subwoofers end up being set differently—if, for example, one is in a corner and the other is not. It's all part of the overall-balancing act that is bass management in real rooms.
We get virtually no inquiries about subwoofer placement from customers, which is a good indication that it's not something over which people lose much sleep. A good subwoofer is such a pleasure when used with a good main speaker that enjoyment is definitely the rule.
VI. Quick Start
If you cannot wait to hear your new PSB subwoofer: Turn off all other components, and follow one of the connection diagrams. Connect the supplied power cord to the AC power socket. Set the PSB subwoofer volume control to its minimum position (counterclockwise), then plug the subwoofer into an active AC outlet. The same receptacle as the rest of your audio/video system or another on the same electrical circuit should be used to avoid ground hum. Set the subwoofer's Sub Cut-Off Frequency control to its midpoint, and the phase switch to 0°. Flip the Power Switch to the on position. Play a bass-rich program source, and slowly bring up the Sub Volume control (clockwise) until the subwoofer contributes a natural level of low frequency sound. Now please read the rest of this guide and fine-tune your installation accordingly—it will be time well spent!
Adjustable Rubber Leveler and Adjustable Spike Installation
Screw the supplied levelers or spikes into the threaded inserts located in the base, bottom or in the four feet attached to the bottom of the subwoofer. Speaker spikes are for carpet use. Threaded rubber isolation levelers are for shelf or hard floor use.
a) Carpet Use
Screw a spike with a lock nut attached into the insert located in the base, bottom or in each of the four feet attached to the bottom of the subwoofer. Locate the subwoofer, adjust to the desired height (higher for thicker carpet) by turning the spikes and tightening the lock nuts.
b) Hard Floor or Shelf Use
Screw a threaded rubber isolation bumper with a lock nut attached into the insert located in the base, bottom or in each of the four feet attached to the bottom of the subwoofer. Locate the subwoofer, adjust to the desired height by turning the rubber isolation bumpers and tightening the lock nuts.
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VII. Features, Controls, AC Power
A.
SUB VOLUME CONTROL
Adjusts the output level of the PSB subwoofer only: This is not intended as a day-to-day volume control. See “IX. Setup Calibration”
The PSB subwoofer includes designed-in dynamic-range protection: it is virtually impossible to overdrive the subwoofer, regardless of volume setting or the demands of the program material. Where even higher levels of low frequencies are required, a second PSB subwoofer can provide a significant gain in total bass levels.
ON INDICATOR LIGHT
B.
SUB CUT-OFF FREQUENCY
D.
CONTROL
Adjusts the high-frequency roll-off of signals sent to the subwoofer. Continuously variable from 50Hz to 150Hz for precise matching of subwoofer bass reproduction with the main (left and right) stereo speakers. See “IX. Setup Calibration”
Figure 1
(located on the front of the subwoofer)
The light is located between the
PHASE SWITCH
control knobs. With both the 120 and 230 volt versions, the subwoofer is initially in stand-by mode awaiting the presence of an audio signal. When the subwoofer receives an audio signal the On indicator will illuminate. At the end of the audio signal the subwoofer will stay on for approximately 15 minutes.
AC POWER CONNECTION
C.
The PSB subwoofer has its own self-contained amplifier and thus requires AC power (keep this in mind when selecting a location). You may plug the power cord into any standard wall outlet and leave the connection in the wall as the PSB subwoofer draws extremely little current when idle. You may want to unplug your PSB subwoofer when it will not be used for an extended period such as a vacation.
E.
Selects the subwoofer output phase between in-phase (0°) and out-of-phase (180°), to compensate for the low to mid bass acoustic effects of different placement locations and listening rooms. See “IX. Setup Calibration”.
LFE INPUT/CROSSOVER BYPASS
F.
SWITCH
When active, the subwoofer variable low pass filter is bypassed so that this function can be accomplished by the low pass filter within a receiver/processor. See “IX. Setup Calibration”.
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Figure 2
Made in Canada / Fabrique au Canada
G.
LOW/LINE LEVEL JACKS
Connect the PSB subwoofer to a separate-component preamplifier, or to an integrated amplifier or receiver with preamplifier-out/main-in facilities, at line level. See “VIII. Connecting The Subwoofer to Your Audio System”.
HIGH/SPEAKER LEVEL TERMINALS
H.
Connect the PSB subwoofer to receivers or integrated amplifiers equipped with speaker outputs only. See “VIII. Connecting The Subwoofer to Your Audio System".
POWER SWITCH
I.
The Power Switch turns the PSB subwoofer on and off. As the subwoofer draws only an extremely small current when idle, this may be left normally on and turned off only when you do not expect to use the subwoofer for an extended period. The Power Switch must be in the on position for normal operation.
J.
AMPLIFIER PANEL
The metal provides cooling for the PSB subwoofer’s internal amplifier by radiating heat produced in normal operation. Allow air circulation, including at least four inches clearance from wall or furnishings.
AC POWER SOCKET
K.
Supplies AC power to the PSB subwoofer. Connect the supplied power cord to the AC power socket. Plug the power cord into any standard wall outlet. With 230 volt versions, in some countries it may be necessary to replace the power cord to meet the standards in use locally. The same receptacle as the rest of the system or another on the same electrical circuit should be used to avoid ground hum.
L.
EXTERNAL FUSE
When you turn on the subwoofer and there is no LED light and/or sound, please check the fuse (accessible from the rear panel) to ensure it is electrically intact. The fuse could have become broken during transit. A spare fuse is contained within the fuse holder compartment behind the inscribed text. Use a wide slot screwdriver to pry the fuse holder compartment from the AC power socket. If it is necessary to replace the fuse, use a fuse equivalent to the type and rating of the fuse shipped with the product. See the specifications page at the end of the manual for a detail description of the fuse required for your model of subwoofer.
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VIII. Connecting The Subwoofer To Your Audio System
There are several ways to connect a subwoofer into a system. For best results overall, we recommend using Low/Line Level connections.
When making a Low/Line Level connection, be sure to follow the coding on the cables to maintain left-to-left and right-to-right. Use high quality, well-shielded, low capacitance RCA cables of minimal necessary length, to avoid picking up noise in the cable runs. When making a High/Speaker Level connection, in addition to maintaining left-to-left and right-to-right, be sure to use the coding of the pair of wires in each speaker cable to maintain phase—+/red/rib/writing to +/red/rib/writing and -/white/smooth/clear to -/white/smooth/clear. We recommend minimum 16 gauge wire and, for longer runs, larger (lower gauge) wire.
A. Connecting Home Theater Equipment (see Figure 3, page 15):
You can use a single RCA cable to connect the Subwoofer Output of your receiver, integrated amplifier, or
preamplifier to either right or left side of the Low Level Input on the subwoofer.
Home Theater receivers, integrated amplifiers, surround sound processors, and preamplifiers usually have a
special Subwoofer Output to provide the optional (Dolby Digital 5.1) Low Frequency Effects (LFE) Channel present on many movie and other programming sources. To reproduce these deep-bass effects (when they are present), supplementing the bass information in the main channels, this output must be connected to the subwoofer.
The subwoofer output/LFE signal is filtered by most receivers/processors. The subwoofer's variable low pass
filter is usually not required and should be bypassed by switching the LFE Input/Crossover bypass switch to active only if the receiver/processor subwoofer/LFE output is low pass filtered. The default position for
this switch is off.
With some Home Theater electronics and settings, connecting the Subwoofer Output does not provide the low frequencies from normal stereo music through the subwoofer. If this is true of your system, you can make two connections. First, connect the Subwoofer Output from the electronics to the right or left side of the Low Level Input of the subwoofer, as described above. Then also connect the High Level Output from the electronics to the High Level Input of our subwoofer,as described below. When listening to music using High Level Input, set the LFE Input/Crossover bypass switch to the off position. The switch would usually be set to active whenever the receiver/processor's Subwoofer Output is used during playback of movies. Most Home Theater electronics will not require this second connection, which, if not required, will produce greater bass than intended.
B. Connecting Stereo Equipment Using Low/line Level (see Figure 4, page 16):
If your receiver or integrated amplifier has preamplifier outputs, or if you are using a separate preamplifier, the preferred connection is from the Preamplifier Output of the electronics to the Low Level Input of the subwoofer. Use a dual RCA audio cable and maintain right and left. (You may need to use Y-connectors at the preamplifier outputs to also send signals to the Power Amplifier/Main Inputs.)
Connecting the Low/Line Level Outputs from the subwoofer back to the Power Amplifier Input is an important option. The Low/Line Level Inputs of the subwoofer are internally processed through an active high pass filter (at 12dB/octave below 80Hz) to the Low/Line Level Outputs of the subwoofer. Connecting the Low/Line Level Outputs from the subwoofer back to the Power Amplifier Inputs delivers the processed signal, with reduced low frequency content, to the main speakers. With less low frequency demands, the main speakers can play louder. Particularly with smaller and/or less efficient main speakers, relieving speakers other than the subwoofer of the demands of reproducing low frequencies will allow greater sound output and dynamic capabilities from the other speakers and from the system overall.
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C. Connecting Stereo Equipment With High/Speaker Level (see Figure 5, page 17):
You also can get excellent sonic results by connecting the High/Speaker Level Output of your receiver, integrated amplifier or power amplifier to the High Level Input of the subwoofer. Use standard speaker cable and maintain polarity + , as well as right and left side.
D. Using Multiple Subwoofers (see Figure 6, page 18):
Particularly in difficult rooms with difficult layouts, using two subwoofers is an alternative to smooth, as well as increase bass response. One subwoofer can be located to increase response, with the second subwoofer located to smooth response. The wiring of two subs in a system is illustrated in Figure 6 (the two subs do not need to be identical). Please refer to Section V, Multiple Subwoofers for further information.
IX. Set-up Calibration
The following procedure assumes your PSB subwoofer is installed and connected. If possible, work in a team with another person: one listening, one making subwoofer-control adjustments.
A. Set Sub Volume to 0, Sub Cut-Off Frequency to 50Hz. Set any loudness, bass and treble, and/or equalizer
controls on your preamplifier or integrated amplifier or receiver, or other components, to their nominal (midpoint or off) positions. Ensure the LFE Input/Crossover bypass switch is set to off unless the subwoofer is connected to the LFE/Subwoofer output of your receiver/processor and the output is low pass filtered.
B. Play a familiar compact disc, LP, or video soundtrack that includes substantial deep-bass content over an
extended section. Your PSB dealer can help you select a few such titles.
C. Gradually turn the Sub Volume control clockwise until you achieve natural balance between the subwoofers
deep-bass output and your main left and right loudspeakers.
D. Slowly turn the Sub Cut-Off Frequency control clockwise to reach the best mid-bass blend with your main
left and right speakers. This will be the point at which the upper bass retains solid impact and fullness. Boom or muddiness is the result if the control is too high. A thin, “reedy” quality to the mid-bass such as deep male voices (FM announcers; Darth Vader) is the result if the control is too low.
E. Switch the Phase control between 0° and 180° several times, leaving it in the position that yields the fullest low
to mid bass output. You will now probably want to repeat steps C & D to double-check the subwoofer blend.
Cycling through steps C & D several times with slightly different settings of both the Sub Volume and Sub Cut- Off Frequency controls will help you get the most musical performance from your PSB Subwoofer and your system. The best combination is that which yields the most solid very-low-bass sounds, without mid-bass boom or a gap in response between the subwoofer and the main speakers.
As you will discover, the Sub Cut-Off Frequency and Sub Volume controls are interactive. Raising the latter while lowering the former can have the effect of extending deep-bass response somewhat, with a small sacrifice in overall loudness capability (this will still be well beyond the full-range loudness capability of most systems). In general, for well-recorded acoustic music the lowest Sub Cut-Off Frequency setting that yields a smooth transition between subwoofer and main speakers is often the best choice, and will promote deeper low-bass extension.
Note: The Sub Volume control is not a bass-boost or volume control. It is a set-and-forget adjustment, not intended for day-to-day adjustment. Use your preamplifier or receiver/integrated amp tone controls to modify program tonal balance.
ENGENG
13
X. In Case of Problems
Symptom
No sound/power indicator not lit.
Action
Ensure the main power switch is toggled to the “power” position. This switch is located at the back of the subwoofer.
Ensure the power cord is connected to the subwoofer and plugged into a live AC outlet.
Ensure the subwoofer’s volume control is NOT in the minimum counterclockwise position.
All PSB subwoofers utilize signal sensing auto on/off circuitry. If no signal is sent to the subwoofer, it will not power up and the front panel power indicator will not be illuminated. When using the subwoofer output of a receiver or processor, no signal may be immediately present in this output. The subwoofer will only power up when bass appears at the subwoofer output.
If the low level cable or speaker cable connection is poor or has been severed, the subwoofer will not power up. Swap cables to determine if this is the source of the problem.
To ensure the problem is not associated with the subwoofer, rapidly disconnect and connect the subwoofer low level or high level input. If the subwoofer power indicator then illuminates, the receiver/processor/amp may not be sending a signal to the subwoofer. When driving the low level inputs from a subwoofer output, ensure the receiver/processor is correctly configured to provide signal at the subwoofer output.
Check the main fuse located in the power cord socket and replace as required. If the new fuse also blows, the subwoofer amplifier requires service.
Sounds distorted
Hum Hum that appears when using the subwoofer’s low level input(s) is usually caused by
See your dealer if you require service. PSB dealers are equipped to handle almost all problems. If you have moved since your purchase, the nearest authorized PSB dealer should be able to help you. You may locate your nearest PSB authorized dealer on-line at www.psbspeakers.com/r/list.html. If the problem is not resolved, please contact us, providing the Model name, Serial Number, date of purchase, dealer name, and a full description of the problem.
Lower volume if the subwoofer begins to sound distorted to determine if playback at a lower level solves the problem. If a slight reduction in level solves the problem, were you being realistic in your subwoofer level setting? If the distorted sound remains at a low level, one or both of the woofers may be damaged.
using an inferior, damaged, exceptionally long low level cable or cables routed near high current wiring/appliances. Replace/shorten the low level cable connecting the subwoofer to the source equipment (receiver or processor). Low level cable runs of longer than 20 feet may require the use of a line driver (not available from PSB).
Hum heard when using the subwoofer’s high level input(s) is usually caused by an intermittent or missing positive or negative connection. Ensure there is a good connection between all speaker wires connecting the subwoofer and receiver/amplifier. If the subwoofer high level connection is routed through a switch box, ensure the box shorts the positive and negative connections together when the subwoofer should be inactive. Hum will result if the switch box floats the positive or negative connection.
Decreasing the volume control of the subwoofer and increasing the volume control of the receiver/processor/amplifier subwoofer output can sometimes reduce hum to an acceptable level.
We appreciate your purchase, and hope this owner’s guide helps you enjoy the exceptional satisfaction that PSB speaker systems have to offer. We wish you many years of enjoyable listening!
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/ /
/
With SUBWOOFER/LFE INPUT
INTÉGRATION avec RÉCEPTEUR A/V / ENTRÉE LFE INTEGRACIÓN con RECEPTOR de AUDIO-VIDEO/ENTRADA LFE
FIGURE 3
SubSonic 8 CE MODEL ONLY
SEE
T 1.5A, 250V
(A)
220-240V 50/60HZ
(B)
(C)
Made in Canada / Fabrique au Canada
Hook up same for all models—SubSonic 8 Back Plate used for illustration.
Le raccordement est le même pour tous les modèles—Plaque arrière SubSonic 8 est utilisée pour fins d'illustration.
La conexión es la misma para todos los modelos—Se usa el panel posterior del SubSonic 8 como ilustración.
Use this configuration to connect the subwoofer to an A/V receiver or processor's subwoofer/LFE output. The LFE input/crossover bypass switch should be set to active only if your A/V receiver/processor subwoofer/LFE output is low pass filtered.
Utilisez cette configuration pour raccorder le haut-parleur de sous-grave à un récepteur A/V ou à la sortie sub/LFE du processeur. L'interrupteur de l'entrée/dérivation du filtre séparateur de fréquences LFE doit être réglé à « active » seulement si votre sortie de récepteur/processeur/caisson de grave LFE est filtrée bas-niveau.
Use esta configuración para conectar el subgrave a un receptor de audio/video o a la salida sub/LFE de un procesador. El interruptor que permite pasar por alto le entrada LFE/red divisora debe ponerse un la posición activa solamente si hay un filtro de pase bajo en la salida para altavoz subgrave del receptor de audio-video/procesador.
15
/
//
With LOW LEVEL INPUT and OUTPUT OPTION
Avec L'OPTION D'ENTRÉE BAS-NIVEAU et de SORTIE BAS-NIVEAU Con OPCIÓN de ENTRADA y SALIDA a NIVEL BAJO
FIGURE 4
CHS212 CE MODEL ONLY
SEE
T2.5A, 250V
(A)
220-240V 50/60HZ
(B)
(C)
Made in Canada / Fabrique au Canada
OPTION
LOW LEVEL
INPUT FROM
PREAMP
LOW LEVEL OUTPUT TO AMP
SPKR / R SPKR / L
R L
PRE- AMP OUT
SPKR / R SPKR / L
R L
INPUT / MAIN - IN
ALTERNATE: RECEIVER OR INTEGRATED AMPLIFIER WITH PRE-AMP OUT AND MAIN-IN JACKS
PREAMPLIFIER
POWER AMPLIFIER
ALTERNATE: RECEIVER OR INTEGRATED AMPLIFIER WITH PRE-AMP OUT AND MAIN-IN JACKS
This method of wiring does not limit low frequencies reaching left and right main speakers.
Ce câblage ne limite pas les basses fréquences atteignant les haut-parleurs principaux gauche et droite.
Esta conexión no limita las frecuencias bajas que llegan a los altavoces principales derecho e izquierdo.
Hook up same for all models—CHS212 Back Plate used for illustration. Le raccordement est le même pour tous les modèles—Plaque arrière CHS212 est
utilisée pour fins d'illustration. La conexión es la misma para todos los modelos—Se usa el panel posterior del
CHS212 como ilustración.
Low level connections wire the subwoofer to a preamplifier or to the "pre-out" jacks of an integrated amplifier or receiver, using standard RCA cables.
Les raccordements bas-niveau relient le haut-parleur de sous-grave à un préamplificateur ou aux bornes «sortie préamplificateur» d'un préamplificateur, d'un amplificateur intégré ou d’un récepteur au moyen de câbles RCA standard.
Para conexión al nivel bajo se conecta el subgrave al pre-amplificador o a los conectores "pre salida" de un amplificador integrado o receptor usando cables comunes tipo RCA.
PRE- AMP OUT
INPUT / MAIN - IN
RIGHT SPEAKER
R L
R L
PREAMPLIFIER
POWER AMPLIFIER
LEFT SPEAKER
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