Pro Built GILES 202 Assembly Instructions Manual

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Specifications

Wingspan 93 inches ( 2.36 m )

Length 82 inches ( 2.08 m )

Wing Area 1560 sq. inches

Weight 22 – 23 Lbs ( 10.0 – 10.5 Kg )

Recommended Engine size -

60 to 80 cc gasoline – 35 to 60 cc glow engine .
( Not over 6 Lbs or 2.75 Kg weight )

Additional equipment required

Computer Radio with at Least 8 channels
2 Elevator servos minimum 100 oz/in. of torque each.
2 or 4 aileron servos, total torque required not less than 120 oz./in. per wing..
Rudder servo(s) at least 180 oz./in. (see text).
Throttle servo.
Radio operated engine kill switch or servo operated choke strongly suggested .
Single or dual radio battery packs at least 1650 mah total.
Switch[es] for receiver batteries.
Miscellaneous servo extensions..
High strength pushrods, carbon fiber reinforced suggested.
For Gas engine - Gasoline resistant fuel tank and lines with filler system.

3.5 inch wheels for main landing gear, 1.5 inch tail wheel.
3/16 inch axles for main landing gear.
5” spinner – Strongly suggest Tru-Turn alloy for required true - balance .
Heavy duty control horn set (3 or 4 sets required)

Please remember, this is a big airplane with high stresses on the controls. You must use
high performance servos, pushrods, linkages, horns, etc.

Flexing in linkage or loose hinges can and will cause flutter of the control surfaces which
will destroy the airplane in just a few seconds. Metal gear servos are required. Proper
installation of hinges is critical.

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Table of Contents

1 Open and Inspect
2 Preparation and Improvements
3 Mount the Engine
4 Hinge the control surfaces
5 Mount the hatch and canopy
6 Mount the horizontal tail plane
7 Install control horns
8 Install servos
9 Install landing gear
10 Install fuel tank and fuel system **
11 Fit radio equipment **
12 Hook up throttle control linkage **
13 Fit wings
14 Check centre of gravity
15 Set control throws
16 Quick Start Guide
17 Warranty Information

** These Items require user supplied materials and creativity. These steps
assume that the user will be installing mounts, retainers, and other
assemblies to suit his particular building style. For example no servo mount
is supplied for the throttle, we have no way of knowing what type of engine
you will use or what is the best location for the throttle servo.

If you need advice on any of this, call us or email [e-mail]

we’ll

be happy to try to try to answer your questions.

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1. Open and Inspect contents

This section should be fairly self explanatory.

In the large box you should have a fuselage with hatch., wing tube and dual stab tubes, the
elevator/stab assemblies, the rudder, cowl, wheel pants, canopy, and a package with the land­ing gear, tail wheel bracket and miscellaneous nuts and bolts. Use some acetone on a rag to
clean the glue off the tubes. Under all of this is a false floor, and under that you will find the
wings with ailerons attached. The hinges are installed in the elevators and ailerons, but they
are not glued, you have to do that. The hinges for the rudder are in the hardware pack. We
have had good luck with two part Epoxy glues, as they fill any voids hinges and their sockets
.Wipe off any excess with Methalyted spirits before epoxy sets. The wings and ailerons are
made of sheeted foam, so be sure not to use any type of glue which might dissolve the foam.

Check everything for shipping damage and/or manufacturing defects. If there is a problem,

report it to us NOW, not after you start building the plane.

Read the quick start guide at the end of this manual first. It has
helpful hints and any errata corrections that may be available.

Before proceeding to any assembly, now is a good time to go over the whole plane and fix
any cosmetic flaws. Some cosmetic flaws are to be expected, this fact is reflected in the price.

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2 Preparation and Improvements

There are a few areas where, at this unassembled stage, you can improve the final results of
your assembly project. There are many items that cannot be addressed on the assembly line
due to cost and possibly because not every improvement would be welcomed by every
builder. Here are a few items that have come up over time.

Go over the covering with a heat gun or iron. The covering tends to get loose over time
and with changes in temperature and humidity. It may have come out of the box with
wrinkles, I can assure you it did not go into the box that way.

Clean out the hinge holes. Without removing any wood, use a very sharp X-acto knife and
remove any covering that may have been pushed into the hinge holes. It is very important
that the glue sticks to the wood and not to the covering.

Hardening holes. The fuselage sides on this plane are made of balsa which in certain areas
is doubled by lite ply.

Using wood screws in balsa is difficult because balsa is very soft. It’s a good idea whenever
you drill a hole that must accept a wood screw to put a drop of thin CA into the hole and
then if necessary re-drill the hole. The CA will wick into the wood and harden it, adding
strength in that area.

Rudder servo tray. The rear rudder servo tray is not supported properly at the rear edge,
which causes rudder deflection to be less positive than it could be. This can be corrected by
adding a support across the bottom of the tray (1/8” x 3/4” balsa should do it) that attaches to
the fuselage sides.

3. Mount the Engine

The first thing to do, before anything else goes in the fuselage, is to get the engine mounted
and aligned with the cowl.. This is the hardest and most time consuming step in building this
plane. If you can do this everything else should be easy. Do this first before you hinge the
rudder.

Note that the firewall already has a proper amount of right thrust built in, do not use any
other offsets. When you shim the engine out from the firewall use shims of equal thickness
on all 4 corners so that you do not introduce any other thrust angles.

If you are using a twin, you have it easy. Set the engine on the firewall in approximately the
center. Mount the cowl using all 6 - 4mm screws.
To be sure that the cowl is in the right location. Move the engine around until the prop shaft
is centered in the cowl ring.
You can judge this better by putting the spinner back plate over the prop shaft. Once you are
satisfied with the location, remove the cowl (without moving the engine) and mark and drill
the firewall.

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Install blind nuts from behind the firewall. Make a set of 3/4” square blocks that are thick
enough to place the engine’s prop drive hub 6.5” from the firewall and use these to set the
engine off from the firewall the proper distance. You can adjust the thickness to get an exact
fit.
If you are using a single cylinder engine, you will need some method of keeping the engine
sitting on its mounting lugs without falling over. Here’s how to do this:

Make a wood spacer to go behind the engine that will place the engine’s thrust washer 6.5
inches in front of the firewall. Drill that spacer so that the spacer serves as a template for the
engine mount, and mount the engine to the spacer. In the photos is the mounting a 3W single,
which mounts from the rear, so simply countersink the mounting holes and mount the spacer
to the engine. This will work with other engines as well.

You will need to be able to hold the engine against the firewall and still move the engine
around to find the proper position. If the engine has a rear carb you will need to open up the
firewall for the carb to go through, but you will find it easier to remove the carb during this
fitting stage, then when the exact engine location is found you can cut the firewall to clear the
carb and then remount it. If you do that, be sure to seal the engine inlet so you don’t get
sawdust and debris in the engine.

Cut a strip of 1/4” ply about 3” long, and drill it in the center so that you can put a sheet
metal screw through it. The idea is to sandwich the firewall between the wood spacer and
the small piece of ply through the large hole in the firewall to allow the engine to move
around to position it. Put the screw through this wood piece, through the large hole in the
firewall, and into the engine spacer so that the wood spacer is snug against the firewall but
will still slide around.

Now mount the cowl using the supplied screws and washers. If you are using a single
cylinder engine it will be necessary to cut out the cowling to clear the cylinder to mount the
cowl. Cut a little bit at a time rechecking clearance until the cowl will fit over and mount on
the cowl mounting blocks with adequate clearance all around the cylinder.
Mount the cowl using all 6 supplied 4mm screws and washers. Place your spinner back
plate over the crankshaft or prop bolt so that it is centered. You can now just move the
engine around by hand (reach in from behind the engine) to get the spinner back plate
centered on the cowl ring.

Once the spinner back plate and engine are in the right position, remove the cowl and mark
the engine’s position by tracing the wood spacer on the firewall. Remove the spacer from the
engine and put it back on the firewall exactly where it was before, and use the wood spacer as
a template to drill the engine mount holes in the firewall. Secure the engine temporarily to the
firewall, and recheck the crank position in relation to the cowl.

You may want to f i n e a d ju s t t he engine spacer so that the spinner back plate fits perfectly. If
you do this remember that the firewall is already set with proper thrust angles, so make all
spacers the same thickness or it will change the thrust angle and the way the plane flies.

It is important for engine cooling that there be ample area opened up to allow hot air to be ex­hausted from the cowling. Normally this is done by opening up an area on the bottom of the
cowl, at the rear/center. A rule of thumb is the exhaust area needs to be at least twice the size
of the air inlet area.

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If you are using a twin cylinder engine, it may be desirable to install a baffle inside the cowl
to force air to flow over the engine instead of around it. This can be as simple as a piece of
cardboard in the top of the cowl behind the engine. See the photo. This is something that will
be based on what engine you use.

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Engine Firewall . Especially if you are using a Gas engine or not using a soft mount system,

we strongly suggest adding some gussets to the firewall area. Always use Epoxy for engine mount
structures due it’s superior strength. Add the 1/2'” triangle balsa stock or similar together with an
extra plywood gusset as shown in the photo below. This will prevent any de-bonding of the
firewall areas.

4. Hinge the control surfaces

Hinging is a very simple matter. We recommend that you hinge all the control surfaces in
two steps allowing the glue to dry between steps.

There’s an important note about hinging the ailerons at the end of this section.

Before you start gluing anything, test fit each control surface. Aileron to wing, elevator to
stabilizer, rudder to fin/ fuse, with the hinges in place. Make sure the hinges go in the holes
smoothly and that there is ample room for the hinge “knuckle” so there is no large gap