Suggested guidelines
for the preparation and
installation of Premier
Structural Insulated Panels
Stronger. Straighter. greener.
Introduction
Premier Building System’s SIPs Installation
Guide has been divided into convenient sections
covering most aspects of PBS SIPs installation.
Designed for carpenters, framers, contractors
and do-it-yourselfers, the instructions and
detailed illustrations will give you the basics of
building with PBS SIPs at just a glance.
Premier’s SIPs installation techniques are
based on Premier Building Systems’ continuing
program of independent, third-party testing and
more than 30 years of fabrication, installation,
and innovation.
If you have questions about anything covered in
this installation guide, please call us and ask to
speak with a technical representative. A listing
of Premier’s office phone numbers appears in
the back of this guide.
• Schedule a preconstruction meeting with
your installation crew (concrete, plumbing,
electrical, siding, roofing, etc.).
• Inventory materials when you receive them.
• Check all SIPs for proper cuts and recesses.
• Double check SIPs sizes and compare to
shop drawings before installation.
• Engineered details take prescedence over
PBS details.
• PBS details regarding mastic and SIPs tape
need to be followed.
• Any changes required at the job site should
be communicated with the technical
representative.
• Make sure your foundation or floor is level
and square.
• Fabricate and pre-install dimensional or I-joist
spline material as specified.
• Review engineering for hold downs if
applicable.
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• Make sure to drill the top and bottom
plates for the vertical electrical chases in
the wall panels.
• Do not put plumbing inside SIPs.
• Do not cut the skins (OSB) for extra
electrical chases or plumbing.
• Do not pick up the SIPs by the edge of the
top skin.
• Remove debris from sill plate before you
place the SIP wall panel on it.
• Use mastic on all connections as shown in
the PBS details.
• Make sure that both of the wall SIPs skins
are bearing on the floor.
• Follow proper nailing requirements according
to details and job specific engineering.
• Plumb each SIP in each direction, then secure
with nails.
• Fill all voids with expanding foam.
• Do not apply interior or exterior materials
over wet SIPs.
5
Storage & Handling
Your panels will usually arrive on a flatbed
truck. Depending on the site, panels should be
off-loaded to a clean, flat area with sufficient
maneuvering room. (A fork-lift will speed the
off-load process.)
Panels do not come in any particular order. This
allows for minimized shipping costs by taking
full advantage of the space available on the
truck. It is advisable to sort the panels as you
off load them. This process will require room to
shift and stack the panels accordingly.
Sort and stack all of the panels by panel ID
number and move them as close to their final
location as possible. Place at least three
stickers a maximum of 4’ on center (o.c.) under
the panel stacks to ensure that the panels
remain flat. The stickers should be a minimum
of 3 ½” wide.
Inventory the panels as you off-load them.
If one is missing or damaged call PBS
immediately. We will work to correct the
problem as soon as possible.
Remember, you are working with a wood product
that may swell after prolonged exposure to
moisture. Keep all panels and accessories
protected from the elements prior to installation.
If splines swell, installation may be hampered.
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Checklist of Tools
• One or two 29 oz. caulking guns
• Hand saw
• Pry bars
• Sledge hammers
• Mineral spirits
• String line
• Lifting eyebolts
• Lifting plates
• Framers square
• Loose 8d and 16d sinker nails
• Dunnage for supporting panels
• Expanding foam
• Fall arrest gear for roofs (if applicable)
• Chalk line
• Levels (4’ or longer)
• Two 5’–6’ 3/4” bar clamps
• Paint scrapers
• Ladders—step & extension
• Come-along with 2” trucking ratchet straps or
• A device similar to Jimmy’s Strapjack Panel
Puller for pulling panels together
• 1/2” drill motor for 1 1/2” diameter
electrical chase holes
• 1 1/2” x 12” auger bit
• 1 or 2 3/8” drill motors
• Chain saw with 14”–16” bar and chain saw
guide for site fabrication
• One or two circular saws
• Power planer
• Foam Scoop and/or Avalon hot knife
• Bits for panel screws
• Nail gun or 1/2” crown staple gun
• Reciprocating saw
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Spline Connection
Depending on the load requirements and
application, Premier Panels are joined together
in one of three fashions: Premier spline (Type
‘S’ panel), lumber spline (double 2x or 3x, Type
‘L’ panel) or engineered I-joists (Type ‘l’ panel).
Premier splines – This is the most common
connection between Premier Panels. Splines
should be cut flush or slightly short (about
1/16”) of the foam in the panel ends. Parallel
3/16” beads of Premier Mastic are placed
approximately 1/4” from each of the spline
edges and along the foam-to-foam edges.
Premier Mastic is used on all wood-to-wood,
wood-to-foam, and foam-to-foam interfaces.
Once panels are in place, the splines are nailed
with 8d nails 6” o.c. or according to your shop
drawing nail pattern.
8
Lumber Connection
Lumber spline – PBS panels are designed to
accept kiln dried lumber set into a standard
1 1/2” recess along the bottom, top, corners
and window openings of the panels. Simply
cut the plates to length, apply a 3/8” bead of
Premier Mastic between plys of the dimensional
spline and nail dimensional splines together.
Apply a 3/8” bead of Premier Mastic along
the sides and center of the recess, set the
lumber into the recesses and nail off through
the skins with 8d nails 6” o.c. or according
to your shop drawings. The lumber should
remain flush with the edges of OSB. If your
lumber has swelled, it may be necessary
to chamfer and trim the piece so it will fit
properly. Always dry fit the dimensional
lumber before applying Premier Mastic.
9
I-Joist Connection
I-Joists – These are mainly used in roof and
floor connections. Premier Mastic is applied
to the outer edges of the flanges prior to
placement in the panel recess. Expanding foam
is applied on both sides of the web to ensure a
proper seal with the panel.
10
Panel Basics – Assembly
When assembling wall panels, whenever
possible, use a scissor-like motion to place
the panels. To do this, push the bottom
corner so that the skins touch. While holding
the top of the panel out about 24” brace
your foot on the bottom of the panel, then
push the top into place. Be sure to watch
your fingers. If you have difficulty getting
the panels together, use either trucking
straps, bar clamps or dunnage and a sledge
hammer with enough force to bring the panels
together. Jimmy’s Strapjack Panel Puller can
also be used to pull the panels together.
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Fasteners
Typically, an 8d nail 6” (o.c.) is used to connect
panels to top and
bottom plates at
spline connections
and for dimensional
plating. Staples are
permitted, provided
they meet the
following criteria:
Minimum length =
1.5” 14 gauge
@ 6” o.c., 16 gauge
@ 4” o.c.
Field Fabrication
Field fabrication will be necessary on the site
if you ordered stock panels. Even on factory
fabricated panels, slight field modifications
may be necessary to allow for panel growth
or variations in the actual field dimensions.
Modifications are not difficult. Common
construction tools will suffice for most projects
with the only additional recommended tool being
a foam scoop/hot knife (available for purchase)
for quick and easy recessing of the foam core.
When performing field modifications to
panels, wait to make measurements and
modifications until the previous panel has
been placed into its final position. When
cutting wall panels, make sure you have
the correct panel, and that it is PROPERLY
ORIENTED (horizontal electrical chases are
at the bottom of the panel). Remember to
take an extra 1/8” off the desired dimension.
We recommend using a pencil to mark your
lines on the panel skin, as chalk lines tend
to blow off when the saw blade approaches.
12
Metal straight edges can be helpful. For
fast, accurate cuts that are close to a panel
edge, use ripping guides for circular saws.
If you are using a circular saw, lay out one face
and then square it across the panel skins to
transfer your mark to the opposite skin before
making your cut. Use the maximum depth
of cut setting on your saw and make a nice
straight cut. Flip the panel over to layout that
side and make a similar cut.
The remaining foam between the panel skins
can be cut using a reciprocating saw, or hand
saw. When using a reciprocating saw use a
dull blade, it will follow the kerf cut in the panel,
cutting the foam without slicing the wood.
Scrape off any excess foam between the skins
with a metal straight edge such as a speed
square. Adjust your foam cutter to the depth of
the installed member. (Foam cutters will melt
foam back further than the setting, which is
just about the right tolerance to get the framing
member into the panel.) After your foam is
“scooped” out, clean the leftover foam along
the sides by placing the foam cutter parallel
with the skin. (The depth gauge can rest on
the panel edge.) Use a paint scraper or speed
square to take off any excess foam that may
inhibit lumber placement. Use Premier Mastic
as required and follow the appropriate details
outlined in this manual or the PBS detail section
of our website at: www.pbssips.com.
13
Field Fabrication
Rake/Gable Walls
Rake/Gable Walls – are easily calculated and
laid out on the panels. First, establish the short
side dimension. Next, mark this measurement
on both edges. Draw a line horizontally across
the panel. The rise across the panel will be
determined by your roof pitch. If your panel is
4’ wide, multiply the roof pitch by 4’ to get your
rise (in inches) on the other side of the panel.
For example, a 6:12 pitch will gain 24” (4’ x 6”
= 24”). An 8:12 pitch has a rise of 32” (4’ x
8” = 32”) and so on. Again, square across the
panel skins prior to making your cut. (Flipping
the panel is easier if you layout and cut your
panels on a sawhorse.) Recess the foam to the
appropriate depth.
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Use the long point of one panel to establish the
short point of the next adjoining panel. Add a
small amount to this measurement to allow for
the required 1/8” gap as determined by the roof
pitch factor. Continue on to the ridge or highest
point. After all rake walls are erected, small
adjustments can be made to make the plane
of the rake flat: either plane off the high spots
on the rake panel skins and re-cut the foam, or
just raise the plate slightly to get a straight line
along the rake/gable.
Recesses can be melted out of the foam when
the foam cutter is placed perpendicular to the
skin and the depth gauge is set to 1-1/2”.
Make sure to blow out the loose foam with
an air nozzle or scrape the recess out before
installing splines.
ALL FLOOR, WALL AND ROOF PANELS CAN BE
FIELD CUT USING THE PRINCIPLES DESCRIBED
HEREIN. DIRECT ANY QUESTIONS TO YOUR
SALES PROFESSIONAL OR THE PREMIER
LOCATION NEAREST YOU.
Floors
Before placing panels, pre-assemble the
dimensional lumber, or I-joists, and install them
into the edge recesses along the leading edge
of the panel. Use 5’ bar clamps (if necessary)
to help pull twisted lumber flush to the panel
edges. Nail both sides of the panel 6” o.c.
Premier splines can be installed as you set
each floor panel. They should be placed on the
trailing edge of the installed panel. The Premier
splines should be placed into the recesses as
the panels are being installed. Apply Premier
Mastic as described in the connection section.
15
Use only one nail into each 4’ spline to hold it
in place. Do not nail off the spline until the next
panel is in place. Refer back to the connections
section for proper mastic placement.
Before placing the panels on the floor support
beams, tack a dry-line spaced 1/2”–3/4” out
from the entire length of the support beam.
Use temporary bracing to help hold these
beams in place. When setting the panels, make
sure the beam stays straight by checking your
string line.
Start by placing your first panel on a corner.
Use Premier Panel Screws as shown on the
shop drawings or described by the engineer
of record, to attach the first panel to the
supporting beams. Do not tighten the screws
on the edges of the panels until your rim board
is in place. Also, leave the last two screws on
the leading edge loose until you have set your
next panel. Once the next panel is in place,
screw the previous one tight and repeat the
process. Install blocking for point loads per
engineered plans as shown above to the right.
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PREMIER SPLINE OR
OTHER PANEL
CONNECTION AS
REQUIRED BY DESIGN
FULL BEARING
BLOCKING
REQUIRED UNDER
POINT LOADS
CONTINUOUS
RIM BETWEEN
SUPPORT MEMBERS
PREMIER SPLINE
OR OTHER PANEL
CONNECTION AS
REQUIRED BY DESIGN
8d NAILS @ 6" O.C.
OR EQUIVALENT U.N.O.
PANEL TIP > Stagger your panel placement
with two panels on one side of the beam, four
panels on the other side, and four back on the
first side of the beam. This will help your beam
stay straight.
Assemble floor panels using a scissor action.
Use the truck ratchet straps or a device like
the Jimmy’s Strapjack Panel Puller to help pull
panels together as needed, you can also try
using blocks of wood and a sledgehammer.
After all the panels are in place, install the rims
using Premier Mastic. Refer to PBS details
for the location of the sealant on the rim.
Check for proper Panel Screw placement and
spacing. Tighten all screws. Make sure to nail
off the tops and bottoms of all the floor panel
connections as well as the entire perimeter of
the floor panels.
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