PerTronix D450 User Manual

Corporate Office: PerTronix Inc. 440 E. Arrow Highway, San Dimas, California 91773 * Phone [phone] * FAX [phone] * www.dougsheaders.com

HEADER INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Part # D450

APPLICATION

1963-1966 Dodge Dart, Plymouth Barracuda, and Valiant

273-360 LA Motor

** Please Read All Instructions before attempting installation! **

PerTronix

order to realize the full potential of our good fit, please read and understand these instructions completely prior to starting work.
CHECK TO MAKE SURE YOU RECEIVED THE PROPER PARTS FOR YOUR APPLICATION. THE HEADER NUMBER
WILL BE STAMPED ON THE ENGINE FLANGE. IF YOU ARE UNSURE YOU HAVE RECEIVED THE PROPER PARTS
CALL BEFORE YOU START WORK.
BE SURE TO WORK SAFE! WHENEVER YOU WORK UNDER THE VEHICLE BE SURE THAT IT IS LOCATED ON LEVEL,
SOLID GROUND AND IS SUPPORTED BY ADEQUATE SAFETY STANDS!

REMEMBER: HOT ASPHALT WILL NOT SUPPORT MOST JACK STANDS!

Many factors affect the installation of headers, some of which are broken or aftermarket motor mounts, accidents that impact
the configuration of the frame, and/or the installation of different engines or aftermarket cylinder heads. Most installations
require some welding. If you are uncomfortable with welding operations, we recommend that you contact a professional
exhaust system specialist to install your new headers.
Attention Customers breaking in new engines: Due to the extreme heat generated during the break-in process, the
appearance of the ceramic coating may be altered in certain areas. The protection characteristics and thermal barrier
properties of the coating is never compromised. It is recommended that a cast iron manifold or old set of headers be used for
this process.
Notice: The coating of these headers can be marred or scratched during installation. If the header needs to be returned and is
damaged, you will be charged for recoat.

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thanks you for choosing

DOUG’S HEADERS

, the best fitting, highest quality header on the market. In

Note: It is recommended that you use the Mopar Mini Starter, Part# P5249644AC for added
clearance and ease of installation. Required for 727 transmission

Note: The Original Bellhousing and Clutch in these cars for the 9.5” Clutch. Many have been
upgraded to the Aluminum Bellhousing and 10.5” Clutch. If your car has been upgraded, a special

clutch fork is required for this header to work. Please see explanation at the end of these
instructions before beginning the installation.

Note: This is a multi piece header and a very tight installation. Please allow plenty of time
and exercise patience when installing this header. It will be easier if you have a friend to
help hold the headers during installation. The flanges for the slip tubes are not cut all the
way at the factory to prevent damage to the header during shipping. You will need to cut the
flanges the remaining portion before installing the headers.

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DISASSEMBLY

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.

2. If a car lift is not available, raise the vehicle 2 feet or higher and support it with adequate
safety stands. Make sure the vehicle is on a flat solid surface and is stable.

3. Apply penetrating oil to all nuts and bolts to be removed.

4. Drain the radiator and save the anti-freeze.

5. Remove and mark all spark plug wires and then remove all spark plugs.

6. Cut head pipes off just before the transmission cross-member approximately three inches in
front of the transmission mount. Loosen and remove all head pipe bolts.

7. It is easier to remove the factory exhaust manifolds if you lift the motor 3-4”. To do this, you
will have to remove the ¾” nut and washer located at the bottom of the K-member. Place a
jack with a board between the jack and the oil pan to support the motor and lift the motor 3­4”. It is best to do this by offsetting the jack and doing one side at a time. While the engine is
still in the air, remove the old manifold from the top of the car. Set the engine back down
and do the other side. You will have to lift the engine up again to install these headers.

8. We recommend removing all of the exhaust studs (with a stud removal tool) and chasing the

threads with a tap. Do not force them. You may break a stud. If they won’t come out, just

leave them in. You can still install the headers with the studs in but the supplied bolts make
for an easier installation.

9. Turn the wheels all the way to the right towards the passenger side. Remove the wire
connections to the starter and remove the starter.

10. Remove the cotter key and nut from the idler arm on the passenger side of the car. You can

do this from the top of the car by using a 2 foot long extension and a ¾” universal socket.

Use a pickle fork and hammer to remove the idler arm from the frame being careful to not
damage the idler arm. Pull the idler arm down as far as it will go.

11. It is much easier to install the driver’s side header if you remove the torsion bar first. The
header can be installed with the torsion bar in place but you will probably wish you removed
it first.

12. Remove the oil filter and 90 degree adaptor from the motor.

13. Remove the gaskets and any gasket material or any carbon deposits that remain on the
head surface. The use of a gasket removal agent will ease the removal of any gasket
material. Use care not to get debris into ports or spark plug holes.

14. If you have left the two exhaust studs in the head, it will be necessary to notch the outside of
the flanges to the bolt hole. Remember, it is only necessary to cut the outside holes on each
of the two header flanges.

ASSEMBLY

1. Turn the wheels all the way to the left towards the driver’s side. We strongly recommend

that you remove the driver’s side torsion bar, it is possible to install the header

without removing it, but you will wish you had! Lift the motor 3-4” and starting on the
Driver’s side, slide the lower main section of the header from underneath the car. If you did

not remove the torsion bar, you will have to spread the two pairs of tubes apart slightly to
get around the torsion bar. Note: The two flanged tubes go on the inside of the torsion bar
and the two slip connection tubes go on the outside of the torsion bar. You may have to
twist and rotate this section up and down and side to side in order to get this by the torsion

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bar. Be careful not to bend the slip connections while doing this process. Once the header is
in, let it set in that position and go onto the next step.

2. Turn the wheels all the way to the right, towards the passenger side. Be careful not to run
the wheel into the header. Install the starter and tighten the bolts securely, but do not install
the wires yet.

3. From above slip the upper center section of the header into position. Make sure that one
flange goes under the steering shaft. Do not bolt it up. Pull the center section of the header
forward towards the front of the car and let it rest there.

4. Apply Hi-Temp Sensor-Safe Silicone Sealer on the slip connection. From the top slip the #4
tube into the lower main section of the header (this is the tube closest to the firewall).
Twisting the tube while inserting may make this process easier.

5. Bolt the upper center section to the bottom of the header. To do this, apply a THIN film of
Ultra Copper Hi-Temp Sensor-Safe Silicone Sealer on both sides of the two flange gaskets
and insert them between the two flanges. To align the bolt holes, start one bolt from the

bottom through the hole that has the nut welded on it. To get to this bolt use a 15” or longer

¼” drive extension with a 9/16” universal socket. Do the same on the other flange but from

the top. Do no tighten. These are difficult to get to, take your time and be patient.

6. Start the rest of the nuts and bolts, making sure that you use lock washers.

7. Lower the motor back into position and tighten the bolt on the driver’s side.

8. Slip the header gasket between the head and the flange. Start the four 5/16” header bolts
with lock washers. Do not tighten. Tighten the lower two bolt flanges.

9. Apply Hi-Temp Sensor-Safe Silicone Sealer on the front tube slip connection and insert it.
Install the last two 5/16” header bolts and lock washers. If you left the two exhaust studs in,
use the factory manifold washers and nuts on the two end studs. Tighten all bolts or studs
evenly.

10. Replace the starter wires, making sure they have adequate clearance around the header.

11. Reinstall the torsion bar if removed. Re install the oil filter mount and filter. Check the oil!

12. Check for clearances around shift cables, wires, brake lines, etc. It will be necessary to
move the front brake line away from the header tube as well as the proportioning valve.

13. Raise the passenger side of the motor 3-4”. Remove the two slip tubes from the main
header. With the idler arm pulled down and out of the way, install the main section of the
header from underneath the car. Make sure that one slip connection is on the outside of the
torsion bar.

14. If you left the factory exhaust studs in, cut the two end flanges like the left side.

15. Apply a generous portion of Ultra Copper Hi-Temp Sensor-Safe Silicone Sealer to the #4
(rear) tube slip connection and insert it into place.

16. Lower the motor back into position and tighten the motor mount nuts.

17. Slip the header gasket between the head and the flange. Start the four 5/16” header bolts
and lock washers. Do not tighten.

18. Reinstall the idler arm and tighten the ¾” nut securely and insert a new cotter key.

19. Apply Hi-Temp Silicone Sealer to the #1(front) tube slip connection and insert it into place,
twisting as needed to seat it completely.

20. Tighten all bolts and studs. Like the left side, use the factory exhaust nuts and washers on
the two end studs.

21. Check for clearances around shift cables, wires, brake lines, etc. It will be necessary to
move the front brake line away from the header tube.

22. Put the anti-freeze back in and replace the battery ground cable.

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IMPORTANT CHECK LIST

Be sure that all brake lines and fuel lines are clear of headers and/or connector pipes.
All spark plug wires, battery cables, or other electrical components should be clear of

headers and/or connector pipes.

Double-check the tightness of all bolts including brackets and accessories.

Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temperature. Check for any unusual
noises or exhaust leaks. If everything is OK, stop the engine and tighten all bolts while the
engine is still warm.
NOTE: Check the bolts periodically to make sure they have not loosened. Re-tighten after the
first 500 miles and then again at 1000 miles.

PARTS LIST

Qty Description

1 Left Side Header
1 Right Side Header
2 Header Gaskets
2 2 ½” Reducers
2 2 ½”, 3 Bolt Collector Gaskets
2 1 5/8”, 2 Bolt Gaskets
16 5/16”-18 X 1” Header Bolt
16 5/16” Lock-Washers
4 5/16”-18 Hex Nuts
6 3/8”-16 X 1 ¼” Hex Head Cap Screws
6 3/8”-16 Hex Nuts
6 3/8” Lock-Washers

SPECIAL INSTRUTIONS FOR CARS WITH 10.5” CLUTCH:

Most conversions to the larger 10.5” clutch and corresponding bellhousing use a 12.5” long throw out

bearing arm and pivot bracket from the later A Body cars. This arm will interfere with the installation of these
headers and will need to be changed. This requires removal of the transmission. In order to properly
position the fork for header clearance, Mopar Performance clutch fork #P4529452 or equivalent will need to
be used. Additionally a special Fork Pivot Bracket, Bell Housing Ball Stud Bracket and “Torque Shaft” or “Z

Bar” is also needed. These are available from Brewer’s Performance (www.brewersperformance.com) or

Mancini Racing (www.manciniracing.com). These parts are necessary to keep the geometry correct on the
clutch fork.

START THE ENGINE

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