CUSTOM NARROW DOOR BACK BAR CABINETS SELF CONTAINED AND REMOTE
MODELS
NR Series
NS Series
NS52
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
To register your product, visit our web site at
(www.perlick.com). Click on “Commercial”, then “Service”.
You will see the link to “Warranty Registration Form”. You
must complete and submit this form or the installation
date will revert back to the ship date.
This manual has been prepared to assist you in the
installation of your cabinet and to acquaint you with its
operation and maintenance.
We dedicate considerable time to ensure that our
products provide the highest level of customer
satisfaction. If service is required, your dealer can provide
you with a list of qualified service agents. For your own
protection, never return merchandise for credit without
our approval.
We thank you for selecting a Perlick product and
assure you of our continuing interest in your
satisfaction.
WARNING: When lifting, the full weight of the
cabinet must be supported. Lift from the cabinet
base and not from the top. Improper lifting can
result in severe damage to the cabinet.
NR40
NR60NS72
Table of Contents
PREPARING THE CABINET
List of Included Parts ...............................................................2
Systems and Products for the Food Service and Beverage Industries Since 1917
GENERAL INFORMATION – Narrow Door Back Bar Cabinets
Parts List
• (3) Shelves per door (one may be used as a oor
rack)
• Door lock keys
• Shelf clips
Tools Required
• #2 Phillips Screwdriver
• 3/8” Nut Driver
• Power Drill or Driver (for leg or caster installation)
Plumbing
Condensate from the cooling coil is automatically
evaporated from the condensate pan located in the
condensing unit housing. Each unit is also equipped
with a oor drain located in the right rear corner of
the cabinet. The drain can be plumbed to an external
oor drain by connecting to the 3/4” NPT thread out
the side or the 1” NPS thread out the bottom. Both
drains ports come plugged from the factory and can
be removed if needed.
NOTE: Remote units require evaporator condensate
to be plumbed to an external drain.
Electrical
Placing the Cabinet
Push the cabinet into place using rollers when
necessary. IMPORTANT: Proper air ow around the
condensing unit is necessary for ecient operation.
Never obstruct the air ow in and out of the
condensing unit.
For sanitation purposes, it may be necessary to
seal the base of the cabinet to the oor. This can be
accomplished by laying a bead of silicone sealant
between the base of the cabinet and the oor as
shown by the gure below:
Leveling the Cabinet
When the cabinet is in place, check installation with
carpenter’s level. When level front to back and left
to right, accumulated water will drain out of the
cabinet.
The cabinet must be connected to a separately
fused power source (see electrical specification
plate) and grounded in accordance with National
and Local Electrical Codes. Caution: Do not
attempt to operate the equipment on any other
power source than that listed on the Electrical
Specification plate.
Uncrating and Inspection
Remove all crating material before operating.
Carefully inspect cabinet for hidden damage. If
damage is discovered, file your claim immediately
with the transportation company. Perlick is not
responsible for damage in transit.
Perlick is committed to continuous improvement. Therefore, we reserve the right to change specications without prior notice
Form No. Z2285
Rev. 10.05.10
Installing Casters or Legs (optional)
Attach casters or legs to cabinet bottom in holes
provided. Use the supplied 1/4”-20 x 3/4” hex head
self-tapping machine screws.
Installing Base Plates (optional)
Attach brackets to cabinet bottom in holes
provided. Attach base plate to brackets (see
separate instructions, provided with kit). When
returning cabinet to upright position, be careful not
to bend brackets.
WARNING! To avoid compressor damage, after
running cabinet in an upright position, let unit stand
for 24 hours before plugging in and running the unit.
2
GENERAL INFORMATION – Narrow Door Back Bar Cabinets
Refrigeration and Temperature Control
Self-contained units are equipped with a heavy-duty
refrigeration system that is factory set to maintain a
product storage temperature of approximately 38° F.
Adjusting the Temperature
The temperature control is inside the cabinet on the
left-hand side of the evaporator fan panel assembly.
You will need a screwdriver to turn the adjusting
screw. Make small adjustments until the desired
temperature is achieved.
Colder Temperatures:
Turn the adjusting screw clockwise (to the right)
Warmer Temperatures:
Turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise (to the
left).
Temperature Control ‘OFF’:
Turn the adjusting screw completely counterclockwise to the ‘O’ position until a click is noted.
Cleaning the Cabinet
Use a mild detergent and water to clean the inside
and outside of the cabinet. Dry thoroughly. Never
use a scouring pad or abrasive cleanser. See the
Stainless Steel care guide on pages 4 and 5 for more
information on proper care of stainless steel.
NOTE: An industrial strength, commercial cleaner
can be used to clean the outside of painted cabinets.
Cleaning the Condenser
The condenser (located behind the front grille cover)
should be inspected every 30 days and cleaned, if
necessary. Use a long handled, sti brush or vacuum
to clean the dirt from the front surface of the condenser. Keeping the condenser free from dust and
dirt will ensure ecient operation.
CAUTION: Do not bend the ns while brushing the
front of the condenser.
The condenser fan motor turns o and on with the
compressor. The evaporator fan motor is on all the
time.
CAUTION: Cabinet temperatures lower than 34° F
will not allow for proper defrosting of the evaporator
coil. If defrosting is necessary, turn the control knob
to the OFF position until coil is defrosted.
Failure to keep the condenser clean will cause a loss
in condensing unit eciency.
Specications
For complete specications, please visit our website
at www.perlick.com.
Perlick is committed to continuous improvement. Therefore, we reserve the right to change specications without prior notice
3
Form No. Z2285
Rev. 10.05.10
STAINLESS STEEL
CARE AND CLEANING REFERENCE GUIDE
Contrary to popular belief, stainless steels ARE susceptible to rusting. Corrosion on metals is everywhere. It is recognized
quickly on iron and steel as unsightly yellow/orange rust. Such metals are called “active” because they actively corrode in a
natural environment when their atoms combine with oxygen.
Stainless steels are “passive” metals because they contain other metals like chromium, nickel and manganese that stabilize
the atoms. Chromium provides an invisible passive lm that covers the steels surface acting as a shield against corrosion. As
long as the lm is intact and not contaminated, the metal is passive and stainless. If the passive lm of stainless steel has been
broken, equipment starts to corrode. At its end, it rusts.
ENEMIES OF STAINLESS STEEL
There are three basic things which can break down stainless steel’s passive layer
and allow corrosion to occur:
1. Mechanical abrasion
2. Deposits and water
3. Chlorides
Mechanical Abrasion refers to the things that will scratch a steel surface. Steel pads, wire brushes and scrapers are prime examples.
Water comes out of the faucet in varying degrees of hardness. Depending on what part of the country you live in, you may have hard
or soft water. Hard water may leave spots. When allowed to sit, these deposits will break down the passive layer and rust stainless steel.
Other deposits from food preparation must be promptly removed with an appropriate cleaning agent.
Chlorides are found nearly everywhere. They are in water, food and table salt. Household and industrial cleaners are the worst
oenders.
PREVENTING STAINLESS STEEL RUST
Use the proper tools Use non-abrasive tools to clean stainless steel products. Soft cloths and plastic scouring pads will not harm
the steel’s passive layer.
Clean with polish lines Some stainless steels comes with visible polishing lines or “grain”. When visible lines are present, always
scrub in a motion parallel to the lines. When the grain cannot be seen, play it safe and do not use a circular motion. Polish in a
consistent straight pattern.
Use alkaline, alkaline chlorinated or non-chloride containing cleaners While many traditional cleaners are loaded with
chlorides, the industry is providing an ever-increasing choice on non-chloride cleaners. If you are not sure of chloride content in the
cleaner being used, contact your cleaner supplier. If your present cleaner contains chlorides, ask your supplier if they have an
alternative. Avoid cleaners containing quaternary salt; it also can attack stainless steel and cause pitting and rusting.
Keep your food equipment clean Use alkaline, alkaline chlorinated or non-chloride cleaners at reccommended strength. Clean
frequently to avoid build-up of hard, stubborn stains. The single most likely cause of damage is chlorides in the water. Remember,
adding heat to cleaners that contain chlorides dramatically increases their caustic eect on stainless steel.
Rinse, rinse, rinse! If chlorinated cleaners are used, immediately rinse and wipe equipment and supplies dry. The sooner you wipe
o standing water, especially when it contains cleaning agents, the better. After wiping equipment down, allow it to air dry; oxygen
helps maintain the stainless steel’s passive lm.
NEVER use hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) on stainless steel!
Perlick is committed to continuous improvement. Therefore, we reserve the right to change specications without prior notice
Form No. Z2285
Rev. 10.05.10
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