CAUTION: Positive Displacement Pumps must have a
proper size and operable type of pressure regulating
valve or pressure relief valve piped into the discharge
line. This is mandatory to prevent damage to pump and
piping or possible injury to personnel. Do not install
any valves or shutoff devices in the by-pass line from
pressure regulator to tank or supply.
CAUTION: All pumps should be installed level. For
mobile applications the maximum angle of intermittent
operation should be no more than 5 degrees in any
one direction.
CALIFORNIA PROPOSITION 65 WARNING:
This product and related
accessories contain chemicals known to the
State of California to cause cancer, birth
defects or other reproductive harm.
BELT DRIVE
With belt drives, the pulley on both the engine and pump
should be located as close as possible to bearing to
reduce bearing and shaft bending loads. On multiple
V-belt drives, a complete set of belts should be installed
when making a replacement. Make sure that all bolts,
nuts, set screws and keys are properly tightened.
STARTING PUMP
Check oil level – Daily
Drain & change oil – 300 hr.
Drain at operating temperature to prevent contamination
from settling.
Replace piston packing – 500 hr.
Inspect frequently for leakage; piston packing is allowed
to drip in order to cool and lubricate packing.
Inspect valves and springs – 500 hr.
Replace if cracks and heavy wear are present.
Inspect connecting link bearing inserts – 1000 hr.
Replace at first signs of fatigue or wear to prevent
damage to crankshaft.
Fill gear case with Mobilgear 630 or equal additive to
approximately 5 1/2 qts. Adjust by viewing the oil level at
mark on oil dipstick.
NOTE: After first 30 hours of operation drain oil from
gear case (preferably drain at operating temperature),
replace plug and refill crankcase with new oil. Check oil
level daily and add oil as needed.
Fill pump crankcase with recommended oil to level
mark on oil saber. Oil recommendations are covered
in lubrication section of pump instructions. Replace all
drain plugs in pump and piping. Inspect tank to be sure
that no foreign material is in tank or suction line. Fill tank
at least half full or connect suction to water supply. Open
valve (if present) in suction line. Avoid prolonged dry
operation which may cause excessive wear on cylinders
piston packing. Be sure that an operating pressure
gauge is located in discharge line. Make sure all valves,
including spray gun or nozzles, are open in discharge
line. Spray gun may be anchored to discharge back into
tank. Completely back off pressure adjusting screw on
pressure regulating valve.
After starting, close discharge valve or spray gun slowly
while watching pressure gauge to make sure relief
valve or unloader is operating properly. Adjust relief
valve or unloader to desired pressure. See regulator
instructions. Cycle nozzles, or gun, on and off to be
sure that pressure adjustment and regulator operation
is satisfactory. Nozzle capacity should not exceed 90%
of pump capacity for satisfactory regulator operation.
AVOID FREEZING by draining all water from pump and
system in cold weather.
ADDITIVES FOR CRANKCASE OIL
Use of Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS2) is highly
recommended as an additive to the gear case oil in
back geared pumps and speed reducers. The additive is
compatible with all known oils. It is effective in reducing
wear and friction that power train life may be doubled
between overhauls.
• Volume MoS2 concentrate or dispersion “M”
for 5% – 9 oz.
• Volume MoS2 concentrate or dispersion “M”
for 10% – 18 oz.
SERVICE
Disengage clutch, disconnect electrical leads to motor,
or remove spark plug leads on engine.
REPLACING PACKING
Move assembly to front end of cylinder (top dead
center). Remove valve assembly if required to provide
clearance. Remove cap screw. Retract piston rod and
insert tool. Pull packing assembly out or push by rotating
crankshaft by hand.
26850A002 06/04/14
2
Page 3
PLATE
SCREW
NUT
PULLER
DISC
Inspect cylinders for linear grooving. If any is detected,
replace cylinders. New packing will rapidly cut or wear
out in grooved cylinders.
Assemble V-rings onto stud and lubricate the outside of
the assembly with Molykote
®
or other grease for ease in
insertion – do not use a graphite-type grease.
When installing each V-ring assembly, rotate crankshaft
until piston rod is at forward position. Place copper
gasket in position in stud using a small amount of
Permatex® to hold in place.
Assemble capscrew, etc., into piston assembly and push
into cylinder. Torque the cap screw to 50 ft/ lbs.
REPLACING CYLINDERS
Remove packing and rotate crankshaft until piston rod
is in rear position. Insert puller through inside of cylinder
and pilot over piston rod. Insert disc into slots on puller
and slip plate over threads on puller. Screw nut on thread
of puller and snug up. Tighten nut until cylinder breaks
loose. Loosen nut and slip disc out of slots. Remove
puller and repeat to remove other cylinders.
Reasonable care and judgment should be used when
installing the new cylinder. Clean out any accumulation
of loose rust or corrosion in cylinder body. Install a new
O-ring in groove on tapered portion of cylinder and
lubricate with oil or grease. Position cylinder carefully
by hand to avoid cutting the O-ring. Drive into position
firmly, but never use a hydraulic press as excessive force
can cause damage and make cylinders very difficult to
remove for later replacement.
REPLACING VALVE SEATS - D65-16 SERIES
First remove spring retaining bar, spring and flat valve.
When removing upper valve seat, pass head of puller
through hole in valve seat before sliding wedge is
inserted alongside puller bolt. Draw down on nut at top
of bolt. When removing lower seats, drop puller bolt
through opening for upper seat and remove in same
manner. Using sliding wedge on pumps where lower
seats are the same size as upper seats.
Place new lower seat in tapered hole in cylinder body.
Hold a soft brass or hardwood round bar against seat
and drive into place. The knocker stem is in two pieces
so that it can be shortened for installing discharge seats
after suction seats have been installed.
3
26850A002 06/04/14
Page 4
REMOVING AND REPLACING SEATS:
CENTER POST VALVES - D65-20 SERIES
REMOVING CRANKSHAFT AND
PINION SHAFT
Remove valve and cylinder caps which provide
access to both suction and discharge valves. Remove
the stainless steel shoulder screw which serves as a
valve guide and spring retainer. Remove shoulder screw,
spring retainer, spring and valve from the pump fluid end.
Assemble stud, retainer and three large screws by
inserting screw heads thru holes in valve seat. Rotate
retainer to the right until heads catch and secure in
place by screwing stud firmly. Place plate over stud,
screw on nut and torque slowly with wrench until seat
breaks loose.
Suction valve seats are removed as above, except two
stud lengths are joined using coupling.
TO REPLACE
Inspect tapered valve seat bore in fluid end for rust and
wipe out excess with a rag. Place a new lower seat
in tapered hole. Drive lower seat firmly into place and
repeat for upper seat being sure to also inspect the
tapered bore for rust.
Reassemble valve, spring and spring retainer. Confirm
that springs are in correct location. Be sure that shoulder
screw is bottomed in valve seat. This screw is furnished
with a Nylock locking pellet to prevent accidental
loosening of screw. Also be certain that valve disc is
installed on the valve with the flat face down. Inspect
O-rings on valve and cylinder caps. Replace if O-rings
show signs of wear.
NOTE FOR ALL D65 SERIES: Reassemble valve spring
in correct location. When upper and lower valve seats
are the same size, the heavier spring (larger diameter
wire) is always installed on upper or discharge valve.
REPLACING PISTON ROD SEALS
The rod seal assembly contains two seals and two oil
seals with lips facing power end. The oil seal can be
replaced without taking the fluid end off by removing the
cylinder and piston to allow access for oil seal housing.
Unscrew two Allen screws and place into the other two
tapped holes. Gradually screw them in to push oil seal
housing off the retainer. After assembling new seals in
oil seal housing, an assembly thimble should be used
on the end of the crosshead rod for sliding the oil seal
housing back into retainer. Check gasket and replace if
damaged.
An assembly thimble should be used on the small end of
the piston rod to expand sealing edge as it is pushed on.
The thimble should be machined from high carbon steel
and polished on the exterior to reduce possibility of seal
lip damage.
Remove packing assemblies and remove connecting link
caps. Move the link-crosshead assembly as far forward
as possible. On some models, it may be necessary to
remove the fluid cylinder body to obtain clearance for
crankshaft removal.
Secure separation of the crankshaft gear and gear case
so that crankshaft will be held in place against pinion
shaft. Remove both crankshaft bearing caps. Hold
crankshaft at ring gear and left-hand link journal to
prevent dropping into bearing bores. Remove from gear
case by moving crankshaft to the right until left end can
be swung free.
To remove pinion shaft, observe inside of gear case
to see if small sheet metal plates are in front of each
bearing. These plates must be removed prior to
bearing caps.
Tap the end of the pinion shaft extension to remove the
bearing cup at the opposite end. After removing pinion
shaft, the remaining bearing cup can be removed by
gently tapping against the peripheral edge of the cup
with a brass rod.
REPLACING PINION SHAFT AND
SHIMMING BEARINGS
After installing the link-crosshead assemblies and
moving them toward the fluid end as far as possible,
tap the right-hand pinion shaft bearing cup into position
using the bearing cap. Make sure that the spacer is
properly seated on drive end of pinion shaft. The curve
side should match the fillet radius of pinion shaft. Place
pinion shaft in position and tap left-hand bearing cup
into place.
Cover the shaft keyway to protect lip of oil seal. Slide on
the open bearing cap with a .030" shim. Tighten the four
cap screws to recommended torque.
Install other cap using total shim thickness. Tighten cap
screws holding pinion or crankshaft caps to gear case.
Rotate pinion shaft back and forth, applying about 15
lbs. axial force to properly seat tapered rollers. Measure
end-play by using an indicating gauge.
Subtract recommended end-play (.005"– .009") from
actual end-play. This is the amount of shim that must
be removed. After excess shim thickness has been
removed, replace caps and retighten cap screws.
Measure end-play, and if end-play is not within limits
recommended, add or subtract shims as required.
Pinion bearing shims are made of .002" layers bonded
together. Start separation of layers by heating edge, then
peel back.
26850A002 06/04/14
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Page 5
REPLACING PINION SHAFT AND SHIMMING
BEARINGS ON HYDRAULIC DRIVEN PUMPS
Press bearing cones onto both ends of the pinion shaft,
being sure bearing seats completely against stop on
shaft. Place pinion and bearing cone assembly into
the crankcase, positioning the pinion gear over the
crankshaft gear. Carefully press bearing cups into both
sides of the crankcase. Tap cups until bearing cups
and cones are completely together and pinion is in the
proper location in the crankcase. Press shaft seal into
cap, bearing and seal plate. Be sure both caps are
installed with the lip towards the center of the pump.
Install right bearing cap with two .003" thick shims and
tighten. Install left bearing cap with one .015" thick shim,
and one .003" thick shim and tighten. Rotate pinion
shaft back and forth, applying about 15 lbs. axial force
to properly seat the tapered rollers. Measure end-play
by using an indicating gauge. Subtract recommended
end-play (.005"–.009") from actual end-play. This is the
amount of shim that must be removed. After excess
shim thickness has been removed, replace left cap
and retighten cap screws. Measure end-play again and
repeat if necessary.
REPLACING CRANKSHAFT AND
SHIMMING BEARINGS
Press the bearing cups into the caps. Place one cap
into position on the right side with cap screws engaged
about one turn. Install crankshaft (left end first), and push
both bearing caps into place. Extreme care should be
exercised to avoid damage to gear teeth, bearings, and
link journals.
For quiet operation and long life, the crankshaft and
bearings must be installed with .003" to .005" preload.
To adjust, loosen the four cap screws on the pinion shaft
bearing cap.
RECONDITIONED CRANKSHAFTS
When the crank throws are slightly damaged, they can
sometimes be reconditioned for further use. This can
be done by sandpapering and polishing until all ridges
are completely removed. The final polishing operation
should be with very fine emery cloth. If the surface is
badly damaged, the crankshaft can often be salvaged by
“metalizing” the crank throw, regrinding and polishing to
the original diameter.
SERVICING CONNECTING LINKS
The connecting rod link is furnished with replaceable
split sleeve bearing inserts at the crank throw. Do not
attempt to re-fit connecting links to the crankshaft
bearings by filing or grinding the matting faces of the link
cap where it contacts the link. Always be sure that the
proper side of the link is placed upward when attaching
it to the crankshaft. The upper side contains an oil hole
at the crosshead end of the link. This oil hole must be up
to allow proper oil feeding to the crosshead pin bushing.
The wrist pin is press-fitted into the crosshead and
slip-fitted through the bronze bushing. Use arbor press
to force in the wrist pin, checking to see if the link is
free to rotate after the wrist pin is pressed in. Verify that
both sides of the wrist pin do not protrude beyond the
crosshead.
The crosshead end of the connecting link is fitted with
a bronze bushing. New replacement link bushings are
reamed to the proper size for immediate installation.
If only the bushing is replaced, it may be necessary to
ream the new bushing to the proper inside diameter after
it is pressed into the link. When placing the bushing on
the link, be sure that the oil holes in the bushing and link
are in line after the bushing is pressed into position.
CROSSHEAD AND PISTON RODS
Place about a .045" shim on the right crankshaft bearing
cap, and tighten the five cap screws. Install the left cap
without shims and secure with two cap screws. Torque
at 13 ft/lbs and rotate the crankshaft. Retorque the cap
screws. Repeat three times to properly seat the tapered
roller bearings. Measure (adjacent to the cap screws) the
shim gap remaining between the bearing cap and the
gear case. The required shim thickness for this cap is
equal to the average gap measurement plus .022". Insert
correct shim thickness under left bearing cap and tighten
cap screws. Install connecting links and caps, then
torque cap screws to 40 ft/ lbs.
IMPORTANT – Check for adequate side clearance of
links on crankshaft. Some shims must be moved from
one end to the other until sideways movement of all links
can be seen.
Check torque of cap screws on all bearing caps.
Repair parts for the crosshead and piston rod are
supplied as a complete unit. If either of these parts
becomes worn it is necessary to replace both the
crosshead and piston rod. Under normal conditions
a crosshead will not wear, nor will the bore of the
crankcase wear to the extent that oversize crossheads
will be required. A clearance of .002" to .004" is standard
for the crosshead.
RECOMMENDED TORQUE (foot-pounds)
FASTENER LOCATION
Link Bearing Caps - 40
Crankshaft End Caps - 20
Pinion Bearing End Caps - 20
Cap Screw, Piston
Assembly to Piston Rod - 50
Valve Cap Clamps - 100
Cylinder Cap Clamps - 175
5
26850A002 06/04/14
Page 6
D65-16 SERIES
26850A002 06/04/14
6
Page 7
D65-16 SERIES PARTS LIST
Item DescriptionQty.Eng. No
1CASE, GEAR104625E001
2GASKET, LID106201C000
3SCREW, CAP, 5/16"-18 UNC x 7/8", STEEL819100A005
4LID104561B000
5NIPPLE, SPECIAL VENT117995A000
THE PUMP MUST BE INSTALLED WITH A PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE IN DISCHARGE LINE
TROUBLESHOOTING
Pump fails to build pressure with discharge closed
Failure to hold pressure with discharge open
Pump is noisy
Pump gets hot
Pressure gauge shows abnormal fluctuation
POSSIBLE CAUSE OF PROBLEM
1. Pump not primed X
2. Valve closed in suction line X X
3. Suction line or sediment chamber clogged X X X
4. Air leak in suction line X X X
5. Pressure regulator valve badly worn or not properly adjusted X X
6. Broken valves or springs X X X
7. Pump packing or valves badly worn X X X
8. Pressure regulator bypassed by open #1 valve X X
9. Pump cylinder body cracked X X X
10. Water in crankcase X
11. Worn connecting link inserts or wrist pin bushings X X
12. Lack of oil in crankcase X X
13. Foaming mixture in tank X X X
14. Regulator plunger sticking X
15. Foreign matter under pump valve X X X
16. Loose piston rod X
17. Improper preload of crankshaft bearings X X
Explanation of the Service Chart
1. Pump priming is usually not necessary when the
pump is installed correctly. However, there are certain
conditions which may make it necessary to prime
the pump to get the pumping action started. Priming
will be required when it is impossible for the piston to
displace the air in the pump and replace it with water.
This could be caused by a high suction lift, the valves
being stuck on the seat or by valves sticking due to
extreme corrosion. A pump will not prime readily if
someone has tampered with the valve springs causing
them to exert undue pressure of the valve plates
against the valve seats.
2. A gate valve is sometimes installed in the suction
line between a tank or pressure line and the pump
sediment chamber. It will shut off the supply source
in order to clean the sediment chamber or to perform
pump repairs. If this valve is partially or fully closed,
it will interfere with the flow of water to the pump
suction. This also may cause severe knocking and
vibration of the pump because the water cannot flow
into the cylinder cavities fast enough.
3. A sediment chamber should be installed in the suction
line between the gate valve and the pump suction. The
strainers in these sediment chambers are to allow a
free flow of liquid to the pump. If the strainers become
severely clogged, they will completely stop the flow of
liquid to the pump.
4. Any piston pump operating at a high pressure will not
perform properly or quietly if a mixture of air and water
is allowed to enter the pump suction. A small air leak
in the suction line will cause the pump to knock and
vibrate excessively by allowing the pump to draw a
certain amount of water mixed with air on each stroke
of the piston. A large air leak will cause the pump to
lose prime after which it cannot be reprimed until the
air leak is stopped. Air leaks may occur at the joints of
the suction line piping, at the gate valve in the suction
line, at the gasket sealing the cap on the sediment
chamber, by a crack in the suction wall of the cylinder
body, or by air drawing past the packing on the suction
stroke if the packing is badly worn.
13
26850A002 06/04/14
Page 14
5. If the pressure regulator internal bypass valve is
worn, it will allow too much of the pump capacity to
be bypassed and recirculated back to the tank. By
examining the flow from this valve with the discharge
turned on, it can be determined whether or not the valve
is worn. If a heavy flow continues when the discharge is
turned on, it is usually a good indication of a worn valve
and should be replaced.
6. A broken pump valve or spring will often prevent one
cylinder from functioning properly resulting in a rough
pulsing discharge, a knocking sound and a loss of
capacity. If not repaired immediately, the rough running
pump can cause mechanical damage to itself or other
system components.
7. Worn packing, valves or valve seats will cause a severe
drop in pump capacity pressure. Worn packing is
detected by water leakage and should be replaced
immediately. Water getting in the pump crankcase
will cause severe corrosion of the bearings and cause
rapid wear. Worn valves can be detected by visual
examination of each valve assembly. Abrasive liquid will
cause wire cuts which begin as a very small groove, but
increases rapidly once the valve starts to leak through
this groove. If the valves are replaced as soon as they
start to show this cutting action, it will prevent the valve
seat from becoming cut in a similar manner.
8. If a portion of the pump delivery is allowed to bypass
because the #1 control valve is not completely
closed, there may not be adequate flow to develop
full pressure. This will cause rapid wear in the control
valve. Any excess flow should be bypassed only by the
pressure regulator.
9. Pump cylinder bodies withstand an extreme amount
of shock and pulsation while in operation. If the
pump is allowed to freeze, by not being drained, the
freezing may crack the cylinder body walls in almost
any location. If the crack occurs on the suction valve
or cylinder portion of the body, it may allow a small
amount of air to enter on the suction stroke and cause
noisy operation or a decrease in pumping capacity. If
the crack develops in the walls between the cylinder
cavities or discharge valve cavity, it may allow the water
to flow from one cavity to the adjacent cavity and cause
uneven displacement.
10. Water may accumulate in the pump crankcase from
two sources; leakage of packing or an accumulation
of condensation/moisture inside the crankcase due to
changes in weather or the repeated heating and cooling
of the pump. Pumps used consistently, running for a
considerable period of time to heat the oil and other
working parts, will not normally accumulate water by
condensation. Replace the packing as soon as it starts
to leak.
11. Worn connecting link bearings are caused by
unusual or adverse operating conditions and are
seriously affected by corrosion if water is present in
the crankcase. They will wear out from overheating if
the oil is not high quality or clean. Drain, clean and
refill with new oil at the specified interval and prior
to any storage period. Replace link inserts as soon
as any wear is noticed to avoid damage to
crankshaft journals.
12. Low oil in the crankcase can quickly cause failure of
the pumps power end and result in extensive repairs.
Oil level should be checked periodically during normal
operation and during all maintenance work.
13. A foaming mixture will sometimes have the same
effect as a small air leak in the suction line. This is
because various quantities of the foam are drawn
through the suction line into the pump disrupting the
normal flow of water.
14. Pressure regulators can become sluggish due to the
plunger sticking or fitting too tightly in the cylinder.
This may happen by an accumulation of chemicals
collecting in and around the plunger or from excessive
corrosion of the plunger parts. To check this condition,
remove and clean the plunger and cover the parts with
a waterproof grease before assembling. The pressure
regulator may chatter or vibrate excessively due to
an unstable operation from nozzling in the high or low
capacity range of the regulator. The range should be at
least 50% to 90% of pump capacity.
15. If foreign matter becomes lodged between the pump
valve and valve seat, a drastic drop in capacity and
considerable surge or pulsation will occur in the
discharge line. Examine each valve if this occurs.
16. Noisy pump operation may be caused by a loose piston
rod in the crosshead. This noise usually has a regular
cadence timed with each stroke. If this happens, always
replace both the rod and the crosshead.
17. Increased preload to the crankshaft bearings will reduce
bearing life, require more power and generate more
heat. Insufficient preload may cause a knock, timed with
the crankshaft rotation. Check for loose bolts on the
crankshaft end caps or adjust shims to obtain proper
bearing preload. Worn roller bearings will continue to
run but will introduce wear particles into the oil.
26850A002 06/04/14
14
Page 15
D SERIES CROSSHEAD SEALS
24648A000 KIT
Field installation of these kits will require removal of
the fluid end to replace the existing retainer and seals.
On some fluid ends it may be necessary to hand grind
I.D. of fluid end to fit new kit. The same spring and
gasket is used to hold and seal the retainer.
The rod seal assembly contains two seals, and two oil
seals with lips facing the power end. The oil seal can
be replaced without taking the fluid end off by removing the piston and the cylinder liner to allow access to
oil seal housing. Unscrew two Allen screws and place
into the other two tapped holes. Gradually screw
them in to push the oil seal housing off the retainer.
After assembling new seals in the oil seal housing, an
assembly thimble should be used on the end of the
crosshead rod for sliding oil seal housing back into the
retainer. Check gasket and replace if damaged. The
thimble should be machined from high carbon steel
and polished on the exterior to reduce the possibility
of seal lip damage. Place two Allen screws into clearance holes and tighten snug.
Hand Grind Here
OIL SEAL HOUSING ASSEMBLY
RECOMMENDED THIMBLE
"
"
"R
" DIA.
"
DIA.
ITEMDESCRIPTIONQTY.ENG. NO
1HOUSING, OIL SEAL324959A001
"
DIA.
"
"R
"
2OIL SEAL622835A004
3RETAINER, OIL SEAL HOUSING324958A000
4SCREW, ALLEN606106A034
5GASKET, SEAL HOUSING305059A434
6GASKET305059A058
15
26850A002 06/04/14
Page 16
STANDARD LIMITED WARRANTY
warrants its products against defects in material and workmanship for a period of 12 months from
the date of shipment from Pentair Myers or 18 months from the manufacturing date, whichever occurs first – provided
that such products are used in compliance with the requirements of the Pentair Myers catalog and technical manuals.
replace to the original user, the parts that prove defective in materials and workmanship. Pentair Myers reserves the
or maintain the unit in accordance with the printed instructions provided; (b) to failures resulting from abuse, accident
S OR IMPLIED WARRANTIES THAT EXTEND BEYOND THE
Some states do not permit some or all of the above warranty limitations or the exclusion or limitation of incidental or
consequential damages and therefore such limitations may not apply to you. No warranties or representations at any
CENTRIFUGAL & RECIPROCATING PUMPS
Pentair Myers
During the warranty period and subject to the conditions set forth, Pentair Myers, at its discretion, will repair or
®
right to change or improve its products or any portions thereof without being obligated to provide such a change or
improvement for prior sold and/or shipped units.
Seals, piston cups, packing, plungers, liners and valves used for handling clear, fresh, nonaerated water at a
temperature not exceeding 120ºF are warranted for ninety days from date of shipment. All other applications are
subject to a thirty day warranty. Accessories such as motors, engines and auxiliary equipment are warranted by
the respective manufacturer and are excluded in this standard warranty. Under no circumstance will Pentair Myers
be responsible for the cost of field labor, travel expenses, rented equipment, removal/reinstallation costs or freight
expenses to and from the factory or an authorized Pentair Myers service facility.
This limited warranty will not apply: (a) to defects or malfunctions resulting from failure to properly install, operate
or negligence; (c) to normal maintenance services and parts used in connection with such service; (d) to units that
are not installed in accordance with applicable local codes, ordinances and good trade practices; (e) if the unit is
moved from its original installation location; (f) if unit is used for purposes other than for what it is designed and
manufactured; (g) to any unit that has been repaired or altered by anyone other than Pentair Myers or an authorized
Pentair Myers service provider; (h) to any unit that has been repaired using non factory specified/OEM parts.
Warranty Exclusions: PENTAIR MYERS MAKES NO EXPRES
DESCRIPTION ON THE FACE HEREOF. PENTAIR MYERS SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIMS THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF
MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR ANY PARTICULAR PURPOSE.
Liability Limitation: IN NO EVENT SHALL PENTAIR MYERS BE LIABLE OR RESPONSIBLE FOR CONSEQUENTIAL,
INCIDENTAL OR SPECIAL DAMAGES RESULTING FROM OR RELATED IN ANY MANNER TO ANY PENTAIR MYERS
PRODUCT OR PARTS THEREOF. PERSONAL INJURY AND/OR PROPERTY DAMAGE MAY RESULT FROM IMPROPER
INSTALLATION. PENTAIR MYERS DISCLAIMS ALL LIABILITY, INCLUDING LIABILITY UNDER THIS WARRANTY, FOR
IMPROPER INSTALLATION. PENTAIR MYERS RECOMMENDS INSTALLATION BY PROFESSIONALS.
time made by any representatives of Pentair Myers shall vary or expand the provision hereof.
1101 MYERS PARKWAY
ASHLAND, OHIO, USA 44805
419-289-1144
WWW.FEMYERS.COM
Warranty Rev. 12/13
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