Pentair MYERS D65-16, D65-16AVD-AF Series, D65-20 Series, D65-16AVD-AFL Series Series Manual

D65-16 AND D65-20 SERIES

RECIPROCATING PUMPS

NOTE! To the installer: Please make sure you provide this manual to the owner of the equip ment or to the responsible
party who maintains the system.

Part # 26850A002 | © 2014 Pentair Ltd. | 06/04/14

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS

SUGGESTED MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE

CAUTION: Positive Displacement Pumps must have a
proper size and operable type of pressure regulating
valve or pressure relief valve piped into the discharge
line. This is mandatory to prevent damage to pump and
piping or possible injury to personnel. Do not install
any valves or shutoff devices in the by-pass line from
pressure regulator to tank or supply.

CAUTION: All pumps should be installed level. For
mobile applications the maximum angle of intermittent
operation should be no more than 5 degrees in any
one direction.

CALIFORNIA PROPOSITION 65 WARNING:

This product and related
accessories contain chemicals known to the
State of California to cause cancer, birth

defects or other reproductive harm.

BELT DRIVE

With belt drives, the pulley on both the engine and pump
should be located as close as possible to bearing to
reduce bearing and shaft bending loads. On multiple
V-belt drives, a complete set of belts should be installed
when making a replacement. Make sure that all bolts,
nuts, set screws and keys are properly tightened.

STARTING PUMP

Check oil level – Daily

Drain & change oil – 300 hr.
Drain at operating temperature to prevent contamination
from settling.

Replace piston packing – 500 hr.
Inspect frequently for leakage; piston packing is allowed
to drip in order to cool and lubricate packing.

Inspect valves and springs – 500 hr.
Replace if cracks and heavy wear are present.

Inspect connecting link bearing inserts – 1000 hr.
Replace at first signs of fatigue or wear to prevent
damage to crankshaft.

Inspect crankshaft tapered roller bearings – 2000 hr.

LUBRICATION

Fill gear case with Mobilgear 630 or equal additive to
approximately 5 1/2 qts. Adjust by viewing the oil level at
mark on oil dipstick.

NOTE: After first 30 hours of operation drain oil from
gear case (preferably drain at operating temperature),
replace plug and refill crankcase with new oil. Check oil
level daily and add oil as needed.

Fill pump crankcase with recommended oil to level
mark on oil saber. Oil recommendations are covered
in lubrication section of pump instructions. Replace all
drain plugs in pump and piping. Inspect tank to be sure
that no foreign material is in tank or suction line. Fill tank
at least half full or connect suction to water supply. Open
valve (if present) in suction line. Avoid prolonged dry
operation which may cause excessive wear on cylinders
piston packing. Be sure that an operating pressure
gauge is located in discharge line. Make sure all valves,
including spray gun or nozzles, are open in discharge
line. Spray gun may be anchored to discharge back into
tank. Completely back off pressure adjusting screw on
pressure regulating valve.

After starting, close discharge valve or spray gun slowly
while watching pressure gauge to make sure relief
valve or unloader is operating properly. Adjust relief
valve or unloader to desired pressure. See regulator
instructions. Cycle nozzles, or gun, on and off to be
sure that pressure adjustment and regulator operation
is satisfactory. Nozzle capacity should not exceed 90%
of pump capacity for satisfactory regulator operation.
AVOID FREEZING by draining all water from pump and
system in cold weather.

ADDITIVES FOR CRANKCASE OIL

Use of Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS2) is highly
recommended as an additive to the gear case oil in
back geared pumps and speed reducers. The additive is
compatible with all known oils. It is effective in reducing
wear and friction that power train life may be doubled
between overhauls.

• Volume MoS2 concentrate or dispersion “M”
for 5% – 9 oz.

• Volume MoS2 concentrate or dispersion “M”
for 10% – 18 oz.

SERVICE

Disengage clutch, disconnect electrical leads to motor,
or remove spark plug leads on engine.

REPLACING PACKING

Move assembly to front end of cylinder (top dead
center). Remove valve assembly if required to provide
clearance. Remove cap screw. Retract piston rod and
insert tool. Pull packing assembly out or push by rotating
crankshaft by hand.

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PLATE

SCREW

NUT

PULLER

DISC

Inspect cylinders for linear grooving. If any is detected,
replace cylinders. New packing will rapidly cut or wear

out in grooved cylinders.

Assemble V-rings onto stud and lubricate the outside of
the assembly with Molykote

®

or other grease for ease in

insertion – do not use a graphite-type grease.

When installing each V-ring assembly, rotate crankshaft
until piston rod is at forward position. Place copper
gasket in position in stud using a small amount of
Permatex® to hold in place.

Assemble capscrew, etc., into piston assembly and push
into cylinder. Torque the cap screw to 50 ft/ lbs.

REPLACING CYLINDERS

Remove packing and rotate crankshaft until piston rod
is in rear position. Insert puller through inside of cylinder
and pilot over piston rod. Insert disc into slots on puller
and slip plate over threads on puller. Screw nut on thread
of puller and snug up. Tighten nut until cylinder breaks
loose. Loosen nut and slip disc out of slots. Remove
puller and repeat to remove other cylinders.

Reasonable care and judgment should be used when
installing the new cylinder. Clean out any accumulation
of loose rust or corrosion in cylinder body. Install a new
O-ring in groove on tapered portion of cylinder and
lubricate with oil or grease. Position cylinder carefully
by hand to avoid cutting the O-ring. Drive into position
firmly, but never use a hydraulic press as excessive force
can cause damage and make cylinders very difficult to
remove for later replacement.

REPLACING VALVE SEATS - D65-16 SERIES

First remove spring retaining bar, spring and flat valve.
When removing upper valve seat, pass head of puller
through hole in valve seat before sliding wedge is
inserted alongside puller bolt. Draw down on nut at top
of bolt. When removing lower seats, drop puller bolt
through opening for upper seat and remove in same
manner. Using sliding wedge on pumps where lower

seats are the same size as upper seats.

Place new lower seat in tapered hole in cylinder body.
Hold a soft brass or hardwood round bar against seat
and drive into place. The knocker stem is in two pieces
so that it can be shortened for installing discharge seats
after suction seats have been installed.

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REMOVING AND REPLACING SEATS:
CENTER POST VALVES - D65-20 SERIES

REMOVING CRANKSHAFT AND
PINION SHAFT

Remove valve and cylinder caps which provide
access to both suction and discharge valves. Remove
the stainless steel shoulder screw which serves as a
valve guide and spring retainer. Remove shoulder screw,
spring retainer, spring and valve from the pump fluid end.

Assemble stud, retainer and three large screws by
inserting screw heads thru holes in valve seat. Rotate
retainer to the right until heads catch and secure in
place by screwing stud firmly. Place plate over stud,
screw on nut and torque slowly with wrench until seat
breaks loose.

Suction valve seats are removed as above, except two
stud lengths are joined using coupling.

TO REPLACE

Inspect tapered valve seat bore in fluid end for rust and
wipe out excess with a rag. Place a new lower seat
in tapered hole. Drive lower seat firmly into place and
repeat for upper seat being sure to also inspect the
tapered bore for rust.

Reassemble valve, spring and spring retainer. Confirm
that springs are in correct location. Be sure that shoulder
screw is bottomed in valve seat. This screw is furnished
with a Nylock locking pellet to prevent accidental
loosening of screw. Also be certain that valve disc is
installed on the valve with the flat face down. Inspect
O-rings on valve and cylinder caps. Replace if O-rings
show signs of wear.

NOTE FOR ALL D65 SERIES: Reassemble valve spring
in correct location. When upper and lower valve seats
are the same size, the heavier spring (larger diameter
wire) is always installed on upper or discharge valve.

REPLACING PISTON ROD SEALS

The rod seal assembly contains two seals and two oil
seals with lips facing power end. The oil seal can be
replaced without taking the fluid end off by removing the
cylinder and piston to allow access for oil seal housing.
Unscrew two Allen screws and place into the other two
tapped holes. Gradually screw them in to push oil seal
housing off the retainer. After assembling new seals in
oil seal housing, an assembly thimble should be used
on the end of the crosshead rod for sliding the oil seal
housing back into retainer. Check gasket and replace if
damaged.

An assembly thimble should be used on the small end of
the piston rod to expand sealing edge as it is pushed on.
The thimble should be machined from high carbon steel
and polished on the exterior to reduce possibility of seal
lip damage.

Remove packing assemblies and remove connecting link
caps. Move the link-crosshead assembly as far forward
as possible. On some models, it may be necessary to
remove the fluid cylinder body to obtain clearance for
crankshaft removal.

Secure separation of the crankshaft gear and gear case
so that crankshaft will be held in place against pinion
shaft. Remove both crankshaft bearing caps. Hold
crankshaft at ring gear and left-hand link journal to
prevent dropping into bearing bores. Remove from gear
case by moving crankshaft to the right until left end can
be swung free.

To remove pinion shaft, observe inside of gear case
to see if small sheet metal plates are in front of each
bearing. These plates must be removed prior to
bearing caps.

Tap the end of the pinion shaft extension to remove the
bearing cup at the opposite end. After removing pinion
shaft, the remaining bearing cup can be removed by
gently tapping against the peripheral edge of the cup

with a brass rod.

REPLACING PINION SHAFT AND
SHIMMING BEARINGS

After installing the link-crosshead assemblies and
moving them toward the fluid end as far as possible,
tap the right-hand pinion shaft bearing cup into position
using the bearing cap. Make sure that the spacer is
properly seated on drive end of pinion shaft. The curve
side should match the fillet radius of pinion shaft. Place
pinion shaft in position and tap left-hand bearing cup
into place.

Cover the shaft keyway to protect lip of oil seal. Slide on
the open bearing cap with a .030" shim. Tighten the four
cap screws to recommended torque.

Install other cap using total shim thickness. Tighten cap
screws holding pinion or crankshaft caps to gear case.
Rotate pinion shaft back and forth, applying about 15
lbs. axial force to properly seat tapered rollers. Measure
end-play by using an indicating gauge.

Subtract recommended end-play (.005"– .009") from
actual end-play. This is the amount of shim that must
be removed. After excess shim thickness has been
removed, replace caps and retighten cap screws.
Measure end-play, and if end-play is not within limits
recommended, add or subtract shims as required.

Pinion bearing shims are made of .002" layers bonded
together. Start separation of layers by heating edge, then
peel back.

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REPLACING PINION SHAFT AND SHIMMING
BEARINGS ON HYDRAULIC DRIVEN PUMPS

Press bearing cones onto both ends of the pinion shaft,
being sure bearing seats completely against stop on
shaft. Place pinion and bearing cone assembly into
the crankcase, positioning the pinion gear over the
crankshaft gear. Carefully press bearing cups into both
sides of the crankcase. Tap cups until bearing cups
and cones are completely together and pinion is in the
proper location in the crankcase. Press shaft seal into
cap, bearing and seal plate. Be sure both caps are
installed with the lip towards the center of the pump.
Install right bearing cap with two .003" thick shims and
tighten. Install left bearing cap with one .015" thick shim,
and one .003" thick shim and tighten. Rotate pinion
shaft back and forth, applying about 15 lbs. axial force
to properly seat the tapered rollers. Measure end-play
by using an indicating gauge. Subtract recommended
end-play (.005"–.009") from actual end-play. This is the
amount of shim that must be removed. After excess
shim thickness has been removed, replace left cap
and retighten cap screws. Measure end-play again and

repeat if necessary.

REPLACING CRANKSHAFT AND
SHIMMING BEARINGS

Press the bearing cups into the caps. Place one cap
into position on the right side with cap screws engaged
about one turn. Install crankshaft (left end first), and push
both bearing caps into place. Extreme care should be
exercised to avoid damage to gear teeth, bearings, and
link journals.

For quiet operation and long life, the crankshaft and
bearings must be installed with .003" to .005" preload.
To adjust, loosen the four cap screws on the pinion shaft
bearing cap.

RECONDITIONED CRANKSHAFTS

When the crank throws are slightly damaged, they can
sometimes be reconditioned for further use. This can
be done by sandpapering and polishing until all ridges
are completely removed. The final polishing operation
should be with very fine emery cloth. If the surface is
badly damaged, the crankshaft can often be salvaged by
“metalizing” the crank throw, regrinding and polishing to

the original diameter.

SERVICING CONNECTING LINKS

The connecting rod link is furnished with replaceable
split sleeve bearing inserts at the crank throw. Do not
attempt to re-fit connecting links to the crankshaft
bearings by filing or grinding the matting faces of the link
cap where it contacts the link. Always be sure that the
proper side of the link is placed upward when attaching
it to the crankshaft. The upper side contains an oil hole
at the crosshead end of the link. This oil hole must be up
to allow proper oil feeding to the crosshead pin bushing.
The wrist pin is press-fitted into the crosshead and
slip-fitted through the bronze bushing. Use arbor press
to force in the wrist pin, checking to see if the link is
free to rotate after the wrist pin is pressed in. Verify that
both sides of the wrist pin do not protrude beyond the
crosshead.

The crosshead end of the connecting link is fitted with
a bronze bushing. New replacement link bushings are
reamed to the proper size for immediate installation.
If only the bushing is replaced, it may be necessary to
ream the new bushing to the proper inside diameter after
it is pressed into the link. When placing the bushing on
the link, be sure that the oil holes in the bushing and link

are in line after the bushing is pressed into position.

CROSSHEAD AND PISTON RODS

Place about a .045" shim on the right crankshaft bearing
cap, and tighten the five cap screws. Install the left cap
without shims and secure with two cap screws. Torque
at 13 ft/lbs and rotate the crankshaft. Retorque the cap
screws. Repeat three times to properly seat the tapered
roller bearings. Measure (adjacent to the cap screws) the
shim gap remaining between the bearing cap and the
gear case. The required shim thickness for this cap is
equal to the average gap measurement plus .022". Insert
correct shim thickness under left bearing cap and tighten
cap screws. Install connecting links and caps, then
torque cap screws to 40 ft/ lbs.

IMPORTANT – Check for adequate side clearance of
links on crankshaft. Some shims must be moved from
one end to the other until sideways movement of all links
can be seen.

Check torque of cap screws on all bearing caps.

Repair parts for the crosshead and piston rod are
supplied as a complete unit. If either of these parts
becomes worn it is necessary to replace both the
crosshead and piston rod. Under normal conditions
a crosshead will not wear, nor will the bore of the
crankcase wear to the extent that oversize crossheads
will be required. A clearance of .002" to .004" is standard
for the crosshead.

RECOMMENDED TORQUE (foot-pounds)

FASTENER LOCATION

Link Bearing Caps - 40

Crankshaft End Caps - 20

Pinion Bearing End Caps - 20

Cap Screw, Piston
Assembly to Piston Rod - 50

Valve Cap Clamps - 100

Cylinder Cap Clamps - 175

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