4-CYCLE MODEL ENGINES
R-9/2800-200
AUTHENTIC SCALE MARK I SERIES
SCALE 9 CYLINDER (200 CC) RADIAL ENGINE
OPERATING, MAINTANCE AND SAFETY MANUAL
VOLUME 1 REVISION 4
CAUTION before attempting to mount and run
your engine on a test stand or aircraft, this manual should be
completely read and understood. If you have any questions,
concerns or things that you do not fully understand, you should
contact the Customer Services Department at PEGASUS AIRCRAFT
ENGINES, 1-888-898-7841 between the hours of 9:00 AM and 5:00
PM, EST, Monday through Friday. You can also send an email to
david@pegasusengine.com.
CONGRATULATIONS, you have purchased one of the finest
miniature radial engine available on the market today! The
PEGASUS AIRCRAFT ENGINES R-9/2800-200 radial engine is
an almost exact replica of the front half of the full scale Pratt &
Whitney R2800 TWIN WASP radial engine. The engine is a total of
200cc in 9 cylinders and is 1/5th scale.
All PEGASUS AIRCRAFT ENGINES are CNC machined from high
quality, alloy bar stocks and have unsurpassed fit and finish. Unlike
other engines offered on the market today, the PEGASUS
AIRCRAFT ENGINES line of engines are completely assembled in
the USA using the highest quality materials and components
available.
PEGASUS AIRCRAFT ENGINES has developed one of the best
customer support programs offered by any engine manufacturer.
When you call or email our Customer Services, you will be in contact
with an expert on your particular engine not a lay person hired to
answer the phone. What ever problem you are experiencing or
question you may have will be addressed quickly and expertly by
one of PEGASUS AIRCRAFT ENGINES qualified representatives.
WARNING this miniature engine is not a toy but
rather a power source for the propulsion of an R/C aircraft. It is
expressly forbidden to use this engine to power any manned or
human carrying aircraft or vehicle. Any misuse, abuse, incorrect
handling or crash damage can cause the engine to malfunction.
Such malfunctions could result in injuries to you and bystanders as
well as damage to the aircraft and property. In any of the above
mentioned situations, the engine should be returned to the factory
or an authorized repair station for evaluation and repair before
reinstalling on the aircraft for continued use.
Minimum age for operating this engine is 14 years of age. Young
people should be accompanied by an older, more experienced R/C
modeler.
Miniature engines have all the trappings of the full scale engines
such as becoming extremely hot when operating or after shut
down. First, second and third degree burns are a real possibility.
Fuel, oil fluids and exhaust emissions can be considered toxic. You
should understand the hazards of gasoline and be cautious not to
allow it to come into contact your eyes. Do not ingest even the
smallest amount. Washing your hands after contact with model
fuel is strongly suggested. Always keep fuel out of the reach of
children and pets.
Propellers are extremely dangerous whether they are full scale or
model. Caution should be exercised at all times when the engine
is running.
RIGGING YOUR ENGINE
FUEL SYSTEM: To rig your R9 engine for fuel, first you will need a
32 to 50 ounce fuel tank. The fuel tank must be adapted to use
gasoline. Your local hobby dealer can sell you the necessary parts
to accomplish this. All fuel lines need to be Tygon flexible fuel
tubing or gasoline compatible equivalent. When rigging the fuel
lines, run a line from the pickup port on the fuel tank to the electric
fuel pump (end with hex). Next run a line from the fuel pump (flat
end) to the port on the side of the carburetor. The top port (on the
carburetor) is a vent that allows the diaphragm in the carburetor to
work. If using a fuel filter, make sure it is gasoline compatible and
install it between the fuel tank and the fuel pump. The vent line on
the fuel tank needs a large loop of line affixed to the top of the fuel
tank and then exit on the outside of the airplane. The large loop (on
top of the fuel tank) insures that the vent line will not leak fuel. No
pressure line is required. Ad a third line to the fuel tank with a
stopper on the end. This line is used to fill the tank with fuel.
The fuel pump should be powered by a 6 to 12 volt battery. 2000 to
5000 mAh NiCad, NMH or LiPo is recommended. If using the larger
mAh battery, the one battery can be used for both the fuel pump and
the CDI ignition system. It is recommended to have a separate
on/off switch for the fuel pump. This allows you to prime the engine
without the ignition being on.
IGNITION SYSTEM: When rigging the CDI ignition box to your
engine, start by determining which cylinder is #1 cylinder. Hold the
engine with the scale magneto facing straight up. The scale
magneto is the black part between the two scale distributors (round,
silver canisters) on the nose cone housing of the engine. With the
engine in this position, look at the bottom most cylinder of the 9
cylinders. This is #1 cylinder. The spark plug wires starts at #1
cylinder and progresses in a counter clockwise direction (when
looking at the front of the engine, propeller end).
Place #1 spark plug wire on #1 cylinder’s spark plug and #2 spark
plug wire on #2 cylinder’s spark plug (just to the right of #1 when
looking at the front of the engine). Continue this progression until
you have all spark plug wires installed.
Install the grounding leads that are sleeved to the spark plug wires
by first attaching the lead to the upper most screw on the intake
tube’s brass retainer ring. Next install the other end of the
grounding lead wire to the ground wire on the CDI ignition box. This
is a black wire protruding from the ignition box with a ring connector
affixed to the end of the wire. All nine grounding leads need to be
attached to the ring connector on the ignition box ground wire using
a small bolt, 2 washers, lock washer and nut. On later models, the
ignition box has a nine lead extension with bullet connectors for
greater ease of rigging.
The CDI ignition is powered by a 6 to 8.4 volt battery. 2000 to 5000
mAh NiCad, NMH or LiPo battery is recommended. As stated
above, one battery can be used if it is a high capacity battery (5000
mAh) for both the ignition and fuel pump (not to exceed 8.4 volt). If
using one battery, it is recommended to check the amount of charge
in the battery between flights. A separate switch (from the fuel
pump) is recommended for the ignition system. Also recommended
is transmitter operated switches (one for the ignition & one for the
fuel pump) that will allow you to kill the engine remotely in case of an
emergency. See diagram below for the engine’s suggested fuel and
ignition rigging in your airplane.
ENGINE COMPONENT RIGGING SCHEMATIC
The above schematic is a suggested way to rig the components of
your engine. It is situated to use a single battery (not to exceed 8.4
volts) for both the CDI ignition and the fuel pump. Separate
batteries can be used for the CDI ignition and the fuel pump if you
choose. The above schematic is a way of saving weight by using
only one battery. NOTE: Only one mechanical switch is shown to
operate the fuel pump and CDI ignition. Another mechanical switch
can be installed between the Y harness and the CDI ignition box to
allow you to turn off the ignition while priming the engine.
Also shown is the receiver battery. In the above schematic, the
Tach. is powered by the receiver battery as the Tach. draws very
little current. NOTE: Be careful not to cross polarity when plugging
in the various electrical connectors. Always check that the color
coded wires match up. The grey lead from the sensor cartridge to
the CDI ignition will only plug in one way.
STARTING THE PEGASUS RADIAL ENGINE
All radial engines have an inherent tendency to possibly become
hydraulically locked. This means that the 3 bottom cylinders can
become flooded with fuel and oil causing the engine not to turn
over. Before attempting to start the engine, always roll the engine
through several revolutions (making sure the ignition is turned off
before rotating). If the engine does not want to rotate past a
certain point, do not try to force it. At this time, you will need to
remove the spark plugs from the 3 bottom cylinders and rotate the
engine until all excess fuel and oil is pumped out the spark plug
hole. Reinstall the spark plugs and continue the starting procedure.
When the engine is cold, first be sure the Ignition switch is off, the
fuel pump is on and the choke is closed. Flip the prop
approximately 5 times. This will prime the engine with fuel. Next
with the choke in the open position, set the throttle to about ¼
throttle. Turn the ignition switch on and start the engine. To insure
that all cylinders are firing, you can use a temperature gun to check
the exhaust temperature near the cylinder head. All cylinders
should be similar in temperature and the engine running smoothly.
To start the engine when it is hot or warm, first turn the fuel pump
on and the ignition off, close the choke and flip the prop 2 or 3
times. Open the choke, turn the ignition on and set the throttle just
above idle to start the engine. Our test engines usually start with
one flip of the propeller blade.
OPERATING AND TUNING
Operating and tuning your PEGASUS AIRCRAFT ENGINES radial
engine is not difficult but requires attention to carburetor tuning,
propeller choice, periodic valve adjustment & lubrication, correct
(fresh) fuel and overall awareness of its general condition.
Fuel for your radial engine should be a high quality gasoline of at
least 91 octane. The recommended oil is Klotz KL-189 and should
be mixed 50:1 for break and normal use. Adding nitro methane or
methanol for any reason will not enhance the engine’s performance
but rather cause undue wear, overheating and the voiding of your
warranty.
Starting with the carburetor adjustments, both the high speed
and low speed needle valves are pre set at the factory for correct
fuel delivery under normal operating conditions (air temperature,
barometric pressure and elevation). The elevation of your location
is important to properly tuning your carburetor. The elevation of
the PEGASUS TECHNOLOGY factory is 188’ above sea level. You
can find out the elevation of your area by calling your local airport.
Depending on your location, minor adjustments may need to be
made but major adjustments are a mistake. Minor adjustments
usually consist of no more than 1/8 turn in either direction of the
low and high speed needles valves. If you loose your place (with
the needle valves) the low speed needle is 2 turns out (counter
clockwise) and the high speed needle is 6 turns out (counter
clockwise) from completely closed. This is the factory settings.
It is critical to insure that your linkage and servo throw do not allow
the throttle plate to move past center line (FULL OPEN POSITION)!!.
This could cause an unsafe loss of power and or stall of engine. It is
important to use a stiff linkage rod to prevent High G forces from
flexing the linkage rod into a position that could allow the throttle
plate to move past full open position!!
For the start up and initial break-in period of your engine, be sure
the fuel to oil ratio is 50:1. Run the engine at approximately 1/2
throttle for at least 4 tanks of fuel (32 oz or 1000 ml per tank).
During this period, vary the throttle up and down slightly. Run the
engine 5 to 10 minutes at a time letting it cool down between runs.
Do not try to idle the engine during the first 15 minutes of break-in
as doing so can cause an adverse and degenerating affect on the
cam, cam lobes and cam followers.
To properly adjust the engine after a break-in period of at least 1
US gallon of fuel, bring the engine to full throttle. Using a
tachometer, lean the engine (using the high speed needle) until it
turns its highest RPM (never more than 4200 RPM depending on
prop selection). Do not attempt to lean the engine to produce more
than 4200 RPM. The electronic ignition has a built in rev limiter
preset at 5100 RPM but this setting is only for safety purposes. It is
not meant to be the maximum RPM setting for the engine.
After the engine is turning the recommended RPM (without loosing
RPM), turn the high speed needle valve counter clockwise 1/8 turn.
This will insure the engine has sufficient fuel when the aircraft starts
accelerating forward and the prop loads by cutting through clean air
instead of cavitating the air when run in a static situation.
Once you have the high speed needle valve set and the break in
period is complete, the low speed needle valve can now be
adjusted. A common misconception is that the low speed needle
valve only affects the idle performance of the engine. In reality, the
low speed needle valve affects both the idle and mid range of the
engine. The high speed needle valve only affects peak power
settings. If the engine idles rough and is sluggish when the throttle
is advanced, the low speed needle valve needs to be leaned (turn
clockwise no more than 1/8 of a turn initially). Continue turning the
low speed needle clockwise in 1/16 turn increments until the engine
idles smoothly (app. 750 RPM) without trying to die and responds
fast and crisp to throttle advance. Between each adjustment, the
engine needs to be revved up to clear out excess fuel and oil.
At this point your engine is adjusted well enough to make the first
flight. Further “tweaking” of the high and low speed needles may
be necessary to get the ideal performance for your area. As the
seasons change, adjustments may be necessary to keep the engine
running at peak performance. In cold weather the air is denser thus
more fuel is needed and in hot weather, the opposite applies.
FRESH AIR INTAKE
When using an engine cowling, such as in the case of most WWII
fighter planes, a fresh air intake must be established on the outside
of the fuselage. This is necessary due to hot, contaminated air
inside the cowling. In testing we have found that the engine will
loose power and RPM if a fresh air source is not supplied to the
carburetor.
In fabricating a fresh air source for your engine, a plenum area
must be established just in front of the carburetor.
This consists of a box area that is considerably larger than the
carburetor’s intake throat. If a plenum area is not used, it will cause
the engine to loose power and RPM plus not respond well to throttle
increases.
Periodic maintenance and inspection is a must on this very
complex engine. Your radial engine should be inspected
periodically, approximately every 1 hour of run time, for loose
fasteners (bolts, nuts, screws, etc.). Checking the tightness of all
fasteners is a good ideal. Never over tighten any fastener. The
screws and nuts are very small (to obtain the scale look of the full
scale engine).
After 20 hours of run time, all the screws holding the cylinders to
the crankcase need to be replaced. These screws are sold in sets
and are not covered by the warranty as they are considered
expendable items. Go to the parts exploded view to find screws and
reference number to the parts list. When installing the cylinder hold
down screws always use a good grade of RED thread locker. For all
other screws use BLUE thread locker.
Re-lubricating the rocker arms should be done after every 10 hours
of run time. The rocker arms should be lubed with a high grade,
thick Molly lube.
Be cautious not to over lubing the rocker arms.
Too much lube will fill the pushrod tubes and hurt performance. A
good idea is to keep a log of run time on your engine. This will help
you know when to lube the rockers, adjust the rockers, inspect the
engine, etc. For your convenience, we have enclosed a log book
with your engine.
Also check for loose components by observing if any black residue is
omitting from between parts and components of the engine. This
black residue is finely ground metal mixed with oil that seeps from
between engine parts when the parts are loose or not sufficiently
tight. DO NOT run the engine until this situation is properly
addressed.
Valve Rocker adjustment is a critical part of your engine’s
performance. To ignore adjusting the rockers will lead to excessive
wear of the valve train and considerable loss of performance.
Adjusting the intake and exhaust rockers of each cylinder is
relatively easy to do but requires attention to finesse. If the rockers
are too loose the engine will loose performance and be hard to
start. If the rockers are too tight, it will cause excessive wear and
engine failure. The rockers need to be adjusted after the break in
period is completed and then every 10 hours there after.
To adjust the valves, start by removing the rocker covers and spark
plugs from the cylinder heads. While looking through the spark plug
hole, rotate the crankshaft until the piston comes to TDC (top dead
center) with both rocker arms in the horizontal position (both valves
closed). You will note that both rocker arms are slightly loose in
this position. This should be the combustion stroke where you can
rock the crankshaft side to side without the rockers moving. If the
rockers move immediately when the crankshaft is slightly rocked
either way, this is between the exhaust stroke and intake stroke.
This position should not be used to adjust the valves as it is easy to
make a mistake in this position.
Using a box end (closed end) 7mm wrench and a 2mm socket head
wrench (Allen wrench), loosen either of the rocker arms one at a
time. Completely adjust one rocker arm and retighten before
starting on the other. Either the exhaust side or intake side can be
adjusted first. The sequence does not matter.
The adjustment starts by loosening the adjuster screw’s lock nut
with a box end 7mm wrench while holding the adjuster screw in
place with a 2.5mm socket head wrench. The engine needs to be
completely cooled down to room temperature (app. 70°) before
starting the rocker adjustments. At this point, turn the adjuster
screw down (clockwise) until it just removes all slack from the
rocker. A feeler gage is not necessary for these adjustments. Be
cautious not to turn the adjuster screw too far as you only want the
slack removed. When you are satisfied that all the slack is
removed, tighten the lock nut while holding the adjuster screw
firmly in place with the Allen wrench. In some cases, tightening the
lock nut will change the setting you have established. If this occurs,
loosen the lock nut and start the procedure over until the setting
stays constant after the lock nut is tightened.
Type
Radial, Gasoline, CDI Spark
Ignition
Scale
1/5th
Cylinders
9
Cooling
Air
Engine Displacement
12.2 cu. in. (200 cc)
Capacity Per Cylinder
1.33 cu. in. (22.22 cc)
Bore
29 mm
Stroke
32 mm
Power
15 hp
RPM Range
750-4200
Maximum RPM
4200
Engine Diameter
281 mm
Engine Length
275 mm
Weight w/o prop
13 lbs.
Fuel Usage
2.5 oz Per Minute
Recommended 2 blade
Propellers
32-14 Xoar (for break-in),
32-16 Xoar & 32-18 Xoar
Carburetor
1 Zama
Exhaust
Stainless Steel Collector Ring
w/smoke oil nipple (included)
Use the same procedure to adjust the other rocker arm. With both
rocker arms adjusted, replace the rocker covers. Use blue thread
locker on the rocker cover’s screws. The rocker cover’s screws are
very small, do not over tighten them. Now proceed to adjust the
remaining valves using the same procedure described above.
Always do only one cylinder at a time.
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
SAFETY WARNINGS
*This model engine is not a toy! It is a sophisticated power
system to power model aircraft and should never be used for
any other purpose.
*Keep all loose items away from the propeller when the
engine is running.
the engine is running.
*Keep bystanders at least 30’ away while engine is running.
*When the engine is running, it becomes very hot. Never touch
the engine or exhaust as severe burns can result.
*Never operate engine with a damaged propeller. The propeller
can come apart or disintegrate and cause severe injury to
yourself and bystanders.
*Keep children and pets at least 30’ away while engine is running.
*Never be in front of the propeller while engine is running.
*Make sure the propeller is tight and secure before starting the
engine.
*Always have a helper hold the airplane securely in place before
starting the engine.
engine. Install engine kill switch on the transmitter or airplane
to kill the engine.
EXPLODED VIEWS
ITEM
NUMBER
QTY.
PART
NUMBER
PART NAME
1 1 AS-21-901
CRANK SHAFT
2 1 AS-21-902
CRANKSHAFT SLEEVE
3 1 AS-21-903
NOSE CONE
4 1 AS-21-904
SCALE MAGNETO
5 2 AS-21-905
SCALE DISTRIBUTOR
6 1 AS-21-906
SCALE PROP CONTROLLER
7 1 AS-21-906A
SCALE PROP GOVERNOR,
ROLLER WHEEL
8 1 AS-21-907
SCALE OIL PUMP
9 1 AS-21-909
CAM
10 1 AS-21-910
CRANK SHAFT DRIVE GEAR
11 1 AS-21-911
CAM SECTION CRANKCASE
12 1 AS-21-912
CRANKCASE CORE
13 1 AS-21-913
INLET AND MOUNT
14
18
AS-21-914
CAM FOLLOWER
15 1 AS-21-915
MASTER ROD
16 8 AS-21-916
CONNECTING ROD
17 1 AS-21-917
LINK PIN RETAINING PLATE
18
18
AS-21-919
CAM FOLLWER BUSHING
19 1 AS-21-921
CRANKSHAFT COUNTER
WEIGHT
20 3 AS-21-922
COUNTERWEIGHT RIVETS
21 1 AS-21-924
EXHAUST COLLECTOR RING
22 1 AS-21-925
CAM DRIVE 35-10 GEAR_2 EA.
23 2 AS-21-929
FAN BOLT WASHER
24 9 AS-21-C00
CYLINDER HEAD, FRONT
25 9 AS-21-C02
PISTON ASSEMBLY
26 1 AS-21-C03
PROP HUB OUTER PLATE
27 1 AS-21-C04
PROP HUB-2 BLADE PROP
28 1 AS-21-C05
PROP HUB NUT
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST
Parts numbers are for 1 each or 1 set as noted. For current
prices go to www.pegasusengine.com or call 1-888-898-7841.
ITEM
NUMBER
QTY.
PART
NUMBER
PART NAME
29 1 AS-21-C06
CRANKSHAFT KEY
30 2 AS-21-C11
CAM IDLER GEAR SPACE
31 9 AS-21-C12
CYLINDER SLEEVE
32
36
AS-21-C13
10MM STUD, NOSE, SCALE
MAG, DISTRIB
33
18
AS-21-C15
STUD, NOSE CONE 31MM
34 9 AS-21-C16A
EXHAUST PUSH ROD 72MM
35 9 AS-21-C16B
INTAKE PUSH ROD
36 9 AS-21-C17A
EXHAUST GUIDE TUBE 65MM
37 9 AS-21-C17B
INTAKE GUIDE TUBE 64MM
38
36
AS-21-C18
PUSH ROD TUBE SCALE NUT
39
18
AS-21-C20
ROCKER
40
18
AS-21-C21
ROCKER ADJUSTER SCREW
41
18
AS-21-C22
ROCKER ADJUSTER BALL
42
18
AS-21-C23
ROCKER COVER
43
18
AS-21-C24
VALVE 13 MM DIA.
44
18
AS-21-C25
VALVE GUIDE
45
18
AS-21-C26
VALVE SPRING CAP
46
18
AS-21-C27
EXHAUST STUB TUBE
47
18
AS-21-C28
INLET TUBE
48
36
AS-21-C29
INLET AND EXHAUST CLAMP
49 1 AS-21-C30
VELOCITY STACK 19MM
50 8 AS-21-C33
LINK PIN
51
18
AS-21-C34
VALVE SPRING
52 9 AS-21-C36
SCALE SPARK PLUG
53
18
AS-21-C37
SCALE IGNITION RING WIRE
ADAPTOR
54 1 AS-21-C44
INLET FAN
55 1 AS-21-C45
CAM RETAINING PLATE
56 1 AS-21-C48
SENSOR CARTRIDGE 16 DIA.
57 1 AS-21-C52
CARB INSULATOR BLOCK
58
18
AS-21-C62
CAM FOLLOWER (ROLLER
SHAFT)
59
18
AS-21-C63
CAM FOLLOWER (ROLLER)
60
18
AS-21-C64
ROCKER PIN
61
18
AS-21-C65
ROCKER PIN SLEEVE
62 1 AS-21-C66
CAM BUSHING
ITEM
NUMBER
QTY.
PART
NUMBER
PART NAME
63 9 AS-21-C67
CYLINDER SCALE OIL PIPE
64 1 AS-21-P001
SEALED BALL BEARING 17X35X10
65 2 AS-21-P002
BALL BEARING, 20X37X9
66 1 AS-21-P003
MASTER ROD BEARING, 15X21X16
67
36
AS-21-P004
ROCKER BEARING, 4X7X3
68 8 AS-21-P006
LOWER ROD BUSHING, 6X8X10
69
109
AS-21-P007
M2 X6, CYLINDER
70
112
AS-21-P008
M2 X 5MM SCREWS, ROCKER
COVER AND SCALE OIL PUMP
71
12
AS-21-P009
M3 X 10 SCREWS, SENSOR
CARTRIDGE
72 9 AS-21-P010
SCREWS,REAR MOUNT
73 4 AS-21-P011
M3X30 SCREWS, SCALE
DISTRIBUTOR
74
116
AS-21-P012
M2 SCREWS, INTAKE CLAMP,
SCALE OIL PUMP
75 2 AS-21-P014
M5X45 CARB SCREWS
76 6 AS-21-P015
M4X45 PROP BOLTS
77 9 AS-21-P016
¼ X 32 SPARK PLUG
78
54
AS-21-P017
M2 NYLOC NUT, FRONT STUDS
79
19
AS-21-P018
M3 NYLOC NUT, FAN BOLT,
ROCKER PIN
80
18
AS-21-P019
M4 LOCK NUT, ROCKER ADJUST
SCREW
81 1 AS-21-P020
20MM, EXTERNAL CIRCLIP
82 1 AS-21-P021
RETAINER, 15MM, WRIST PIN
83 1 AS-21-P022
C CLIP 5MM, CAM IDLER GEAR
SHAFT
84 1 AS-21-P023
INTERNAL CIRCLIP 35MM, CRANK
MAIN BEARING
85
18
AS-21-P024
E CLIP, 0.125”, VALVE
86 3 AS-21-P025
O RING 95 ID X 1.78, CAM
HOUSING, REAR MOUNT
87 9 AS-21-P026
O RING 30 ID X 1.78, CYLINDER
88
27
AS-21-P027
O RING 10.8 ID X 1.78, INLET
89 1 AS-21-P028
O RING 70 ID X 1.78, SENSOR
CARTRIDGE
ITEM
NUMBER
QTY.
PART
NUMBER
PART NAME
90
18
AS-21-P030
O RING 4.00 OD X .75 CS, CAM
FOLLOWER
91 1 AS-21-P032
MAGNET 3 X 3, USE SOUTH POLE
92 1 AS-21-P033
CDI IGNITION KIT FOR ¼ X 32
SPARK PLUG
93 1 AS-21-P035
CARB
94 1 AS-21-P037
M3 X 25 FAN BOLT
95 3 AS-21-P039
M2.5 X 5MM SCREWS, MASTER
ROD RETAINING PLATE
96 4 AS-21-P040
M3 X 16 SOCER HEAD CAP SCREW,
TRIGGER RING
97 4 AS-21-P044
COPPER RIVET 0.8 X 5, DATA
PLATE
98 1 AS-21-P045
P&W LOGO PLATE
99 1 AS-21-P046
ENGINE DATA PLATE
100
18
AS-21-P050
ROCKER ARM PIN WASHER
101
1
AS-21-P051
IDLER GEAR BUSHING 5X10X12
102
9
AS-21-P052
WRIST PIN BUSHING 6X8X10
103
1
AS-21-P053
ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP, 3 PSI
104
1
AS-21-PO54
SET SCALE SPARK PLUG WIRES
TYPE 1
105
1
AS-21-PO55
ENGINE LOG BOOK
106
1
AS-21-PO56
“Y” HARNESS, 375 MM,PUMP SHUT
OFF
107
1
AS-21-PO57
LIPO BATTERY, 7.4 V-5000 MAH
108
9
AS-21-PO58
SET SPARK PLUGS ¼-28
109
1
AS-21-PO59
OPTIONAL KILL SWITCH
(ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP)
110
1
AS-21-PO60
OIL PEN
111
1
AS-21-PO61
MINI TACHOMETER
112
1
AS-21-PO62
POWER SWITCH AND CHARGER
PORT HARNESS
ADJUSTABLE PITCH PROPELLERS
MOUNTING THE ADJUSTABLE PROPELLER HUB: To remove
the 2 blade prop hub, use a rubber strap tool (such as used to
remove automobile oil filters) to hold the hub while removing the
nut from the center of the hub. The nut turns counter clockwise to
remove. Do not use pliers, vise grips, etc to hold the hub. This will
cause the hub to be unbalanced and can cause engine damage.
After the 2 blade hub is removed, you can now install the 3 or 4
blade hub. Start by first removing the cir clip from inside the hub.
Next, install the hub and tork the nut to 25 ft lbs of tork. It is
important to use a tork wrench because over tightening the nut can
crush the bearing spacer inside the engine. The cir clip can now be
installed.
ADJUSTING THE PROPELLER HUB: The 3 blade and 4 blade
prop hubs are statically adjustable. The pitch of the propeller
blades can be adjusted over a wide range of degrees from fine pitch
to course pitch. CAUTION: if the propeller blades are adjusted too
fine or too course, the propeller will not develop sufficient thrust to
pull your airplane at an acceptable speed (considerably above stall
speed). NOTE: The 4 blade propeller must be set with less pitch
than the 3 blade propeller if used in the same application. This is
due to the increased thrust capabilities of the 4 blade propeller. The
4 blade propeller also takes more power to pull when using the
same pitch as the 3 blade propeller.
To adjust the pitch of the propeller blades, first start by removing
the nose cone from the hub. Next loosening all the hub screws.
The blades can now be moved. Start by turning the adjuster wheel
inside the hub, left (counter clockwise) for less pitch and right
(clockwise) for more pitch. Turn the adjuster wheel until it gets
tight (do not force it). At this point, rotate the blades back and
forth until the adjuster wheel is again loose.
Repeat this operation until the blades have moved to the position
you desire. A helicopter pitch gage can be used to check the pitch.
At this point, retighten the hub screws and re-install the nose cone.
CAUTION: do not over tighten the nose cone as this could cause
the threads to seize and make it impossible to remove.
Never adjust the pitch more than 5° at any one time without test
running the engine and measuring the thrust. Remember, the
engine should run between 3800 and 4200 RPM at full throttle.
During testing, we have found that the propellers will produce in
excess of 50 LBS of thrust. This is the measure you need to achieve
when adjusting the propeller blades.
SCALE SPARK PLUG WIRES
To install the scale spark plug wires and spark plugs start by gluing
the wires to the collector ring with high temperature RTV silicone.
The collector ring has 36 holes in it to accept spark plug wires. Use
the two holes directly in front of the cylinder to install the wires for
that cylinder. Skip 2 holes and repeat the procedure. When
completely dry, straighten the wires and form them to desired
shape. Next glue the scale spark plugs (on other end of spark plug
wire) to the holes provided in the front of the cylinder heads.
The wires that do not have spark plugs on them should be routed
over the head between the rocker towers and secured behind the
head. Included in the scale spark plug wire kit are 2 short wires
that go between the 2 distributor and the magneto.
MOUNTING YOUR RADIAL ENGINE
A mounting hole template is supplied with the engine. The template
shows the true center of the firewall as well as the center of the
necessary offset to compensate for the angle offset of the engine.
The offset on the template is designed for a 2° down and 2° right
engine angle. By using the template, it will insure that the prop
hub, on the engine, is in the true center of the aircraft and cowling.
Contact cement the template to the firewall making sure the
template is centered and square.
Use the appropriate drill bit to drill the mounting holes. Engine
mounting bolts and blind nuts are not supplied with your engine.
Use a small amount of blue Locktite on each bolt to insure they stay
tight. The firewall that you are mounting the engine on should be
at least 3/8” thick, 5 ply, birch plywood or equivalent. If the firewall
does not meet these specifications, the firewall will need to be
strengthened. The firewall also needs to have reinforcement where
it attaches to the fuselage structure. Spruce wood ¾” triangular
stock or aluminum angles are good materials for this purpose. The
template also incorporates the mounting hole pattern for the
exhaust ring (exhaust ring mounting bolts and blind nuts are not
supplied with the engine).
WARRANTY
PEGASUS AIRCRAFT ENGINES warranties this engine to be free
of defects in materials and workmanship for a period of two year.
If the engine fails, runs poorly, produces irregular noise or does not
meet specified RPM, you may send it to the factory or a PEGASUS
AIRCRAFT ENGINES authorized warranty station for repair. If
cause of the deficiency is due to workmanship or materials, it will be
repaired at no cost to you except the cost of one way shipping.
This warranty does not cover cosmetic blemishes, discoloration or
finishes. Any misuse, abuse or crash damage is not covered by this
warranty. Any attempts to modify or reconfigure this engine will
void the warranty. Any attempt to repair this engine yourself or by
any other unauthorized person will void the warranty. Use of any
fuel other than that recommended will void the warranty.
Any use of oil or oil quantity other than that recommended will void
the warranty. PEGASUS AIRCRAFT ENGINES will honor any
warranties expressed or implied by venders of the company. The
ignition system, carburetor and fuel pump have separate warranties
but will be covered by your engine’s warranty.
CONTACT INFORMATION
FOR SALES, WARRANTY AND ENGINE REPAIR
NORTH & CENTRAL AMERICA:
PEGASUS TECHNOLOGY INC.
1900 DOWNING STREET, SUITE A
MILLBROOK, ALABAMA 36054
USA
PHONE: 1-888-898-7841
FOR OTHER LOCATIONS FOR SALES, WARRANTY AND ENGINE REPAIR, SEE
OUR WEB SITE AT http://www.pegasusengine.com/.
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