Vance Dickason’s
LDC6 Home Theater System
Thank You….for purchasing the #300-655 Home Theater System. This system was designed by
V ance Dickason and optimized using the sophisticated Linear X LMS/LEAP speaker simulation
software. All aspects of the design are thoroughly discussed in the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook
(6th. Edition). The systems left, center and right speakers utilize the exact same drivers to maintain
identical timbe content for the front of the home theater system. Because center channels are usually
placed on top of TVs, its driver layout is acoustically oriented for horizontal placement. The system
also features unique dipole satellite speakers that add realism to Dolby Digital movie soundtracks.
The #300-655 is perfect for small to medium sized home theater rooms and comes in kit form. This kit
can easily be assembled in a couple of hours. We recommend using the #300-739 10" Titanic
Subwoofer with this Home Theater System. Also designed by V ance Dickason, the 10" Titanic
Subwoofer produces quick, accurate and powerful bass.
#300-655
1) Parts Inventory
Carefully unpack the kit, take inventory of all parts and make sure that nothing was damaged during
shipping. Your Home Theater System should include the following:
Part # Qty Description
027-421 4 Dayton 4.0uF-250V Polypropylene Capacitors
027-426 2 Dayton 8.2uF-250V Polypropylene Capacitors
027-428 3 Dayton 10uF-250V Polypropylene Capacitors
027-432 8 Dayton 15uF-250V Polypropylene Capacitors
260-718 3 .10mH 20 GA Perfect Layer Inductors
266-820 3 .70mH 18 GA Perfect Layer Inductors
266-834 2 2.00mH 18 GA Perfect Layer Inductors
260-719 2 .20mH 20 GA Perfect Layer Inductors
005-1 2 Mills 1 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistors
005-2 5 Mills 2 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistors
005-4 2 Mills 4 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistors
005-5 3 Mills 5 Ohm 12W Non-Inductive Resistors
999-212 3 4" x 6" L/Ctr/R Xover boards
999-213 4 4" x 5" Satellite T/W Xover boards
260-311 5 Gold High Power Terminal Cups
100-140 1 25 ft. 16 Ga. wire
082-218 8 3M Black rubber feet
296-155 8 Audax AP130Z0 5-1/4" Midbass drivers
276-152 4 Audax TM025F1 1" Dome Tweeters
277-040 3 Morel MDT-40 1-1/8" Dome Tweeters
081-422 40 #8 x 3/4" Screws (for Woofers)
081-410 50 #6 x 3/4" Screws (for tweeters and terminal cups)
260-317 2 Accousta Stuf
269-300 6 Rolls of speaker sealing caulk
999-210 1 Instruction Manual
300-650 1 5.pc. H. T. Cabinet Set
2) Installation Tools
• Phillips Screwdriver • Electronic grade solder (60/40)
• Hot glue/gun or RTV Sealant • Wire Cutter / Stripper
• Soldering iron • Small pliers
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3) Crossover Assembly
Warning!! The correct assembly and wiring of the crossovers is critical to the proper operation of this home
theater system. In a worst case situation, an improperly wired network can damage your receiver or amplifier! Please double and triple check all values and wiring before installing the crossovers in the cabinets.
FIGURE 1: L/CTR/R crossover schematic. FIGURE 2: Surround crossover schematic.
Tips on assembling the crossovers.
1. Place or “layout” all components on the boards before gluing down. Use the 4" x 6" boards for the left,
center and right crossovers and the 4"x 5" boards for the satellites. The satellite crossovers are on two
boards, one (1) board for the woofer (low pass) and one (1) board for the tweeter (high pass). Each
satellite speaker will need one of each.
FIGURE 3: L/CTR/R crossover mechanical layout.
FIGURE 4: Surround crossover mechanical layout.
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2. When positioning components try to keep lead lengths to a minimum. Note: The .10mH inductor used
on the L/Ctr/R crossovers should be mounted on its side to minimize the interaction between the two
coils on the board.
3. Use RTV sealant or hot glue to mount the components to the board. We recommend using hot glue due to
its faster setup time. If you use RTV sealant, you may need to let it setup over night, before proceeding
with the assembly.
4. Connect all component leads as per their respective drawings. Note: Do not trim the component leads at
this time! The drawings show the locations where the input and output (driver) wires will connect (Fig.3,4).
At these locations, bend the component leads to create mounting posts for the input and output (driver)
wiring. This will make it much easier to terminate the wire, especially the ground connections. You can
secure the “mounting posts” to the board with hot glue or RTV to give the post more stability.
5. Solder all component connections using silver or electronics grade (60/40) solder. A properly soldered
connection appears shiny and smooth. We recommend using a soldering iron with a wattage rating
between 20-30watts.
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6. Cut the supplied wire into 22 pieces approximately 13-1/2"long. Strip the insulation on all wires back
about 1/2". Do not tin the wire leads at this time!
7. While observing proper polarity attach all input and driver wires to their respective mounting posts. Example:
To attach the input wire, take the positive (+) input wire and wrap it around the “IN+” post. Next, take the
negative (-) input wire and wrap it around the ground “GND”post. To attach the tweeter wire, take the positive
(+) tweeter wire and wrap it around the “T+” post. Next, take the negative (-) tweeter wire and wrap it around
the ground “GND” post. The L/Ctr/R speakers use two woofers, so you need to attach two woofer leads to
each crossover. The surround speakers use two tweeters so you need to attach two tweeter leads to the high
pass surround crossovers. Note: Keep in mind that the ground post on each L/Ctr/R crossover will have four
(4) wires connected to it so you should start low and connect one at a time. Repeat this step for the woofers
and other crossovers. Again, it is very important to observe the proper polarity!
8. Solder all wire and post connections. Using wire cutters, trim off any excess mounting posts and component
leads. At this point, it is a good idea to label each wire to ensure proper hook-up. Masking tape and a
marker will work fine.
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4) Cabinet Assembly Instructions
A. Installing the Crossovers
To mount the crossovers we recommend using hot glue due to its faster setup time. If you use RTV sealant,
you may need to let it setup over night, before proceeding with the assembly.
Left and Right Speakers: Mount the crossover on the back of the cabinet between the two woofer openings
directly behind the tweeter hole. Feed the input wire through the opening in the back of the cabinet. Remove
excess wire and then strip and tin the wire ends. Solder wire ends to the terminal cup while observing proper
polarity. The positive (+) wire goes to the red terminal and the negative (-) goes to the black. Orient the
terminal cup, so that the binding posts are toward the bottom of the cabinet. Install the terminal cup using
the #6 (small) screws. Tighten the screw only until the terminal cup is flush with the back of the cabinet.
Do not over tighten the screws!
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Center Channel: With the cabinet in a horizontal position, mount the crossover on the bottom of the cabinet
between the two woofer openings. Attach the input wires and install the terminal cup using the same method
described above.
Surrounds: Two crossover boards (1 woofer and 1 tweeter) need to be installed in each satellite cabinet.
Position the cabinet with the woofer facing upward. Mount the crossovers on each side of the cabinet, below
the tweeter holes. The top of the crossover board will partially cover the bottom of the tweeter hole but this
will not effect the mounting of the tweeter. Feed the input wires from both crossovers through the back of the
cabinet. Attach and mount the terminal cup using the same method described above. Again, it is very
important to observe the proper polarity!
B. Install Acousta Stuf
We included two (2) bags of Acousta Stuf. One bag for both left and right speakers (1/2 bag each), a 1/2 bag
for the center channel and a 1/2 bag for both satellite speakers (1/4 bag each). Before placing the Acousta
Stuf in the cabinet it should be kneaded or “fluffed up”. While installing the Acousta Stuff, position the woofer
and tweeter lead wires through their respective driver openings.
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C. Installing Drivers
Put sealing caulk around all drivers prior to mounting. When applying caulk to the tweeters, it is a good
idea to first roll the caulk between your fingers to “thin out” the caulk bead. Having too much caulk on the
tweeters mounting flange may not allow the faceplate to mount flush with the baffle. All driver openings
have been predrilled for the mounting screws. Make sure that you align the driver mounting holes with
the predrilled holes.
Left/Center/Right: Remove excess wire and then strip and tin the wire ends. Solder each wire to the
appropriate driver terminals while observing proper polar ity (positive to positive, negative to negative). The
Audax woofers have red paint on the positive terminal. Be careful not to apply too much heat to the driver
terminals especially the tweeters. Install the drivers using the #8 (large) screws for the woofers and the #6
(small) screws for the tweeters. Tighten the screws only until the driver is flush with the baffle of the cabinet.
Do not over tighten the screws!
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Surrounds: Because the surrounds were designed as “dipoles” the two tweeters are connected out of phase
with each other. The “in-phase” tweeter (when the surround is placed in the room) should be facing forward
toward the left, center and right speakers. The “out of phase” or reverse polarity tweeter should face the back
of the room. Because of this you need to build a “left” and “right” surround speaker. The surrounds should be
wired as a “mirrored image” of each other (Fig.5). To keep things straight (during room placement), it is a
good idea to put a label on the terminal cup side of the cabinet indicating which tweeter is “in-phase”. The
“in-phase” tweeter should be wired positive to positive and negative to negative. The “out of phase” tweeter
should be wired positive to negative and negative to positive. The Audax tweeter uses green paint to indicate
the positive terminal. The single woofer should be wired “in-phase”(positive to positive and negative to
negative). Install the drivers using the #8 (large) screws for the woofer and the #6 (small) screws for the
tweeters. Tighten the screws only until the drivers are flush with the baffle of the cabinet. Do not over
tighten the screws!
FIGURE 5: "Mirror Image" Tweeter Wiring
5) Room Placement
Room placement for the home theater
system is fairly straight forward. The
dipole surrounds can either be placed on
speaker stands or mounted on the wall
15"-20" from the ceiling with the woofer
firing upward toward the ceiling at an angle.
If you plan on using speaker stands, the
side with the terminal cup becomes the
bottom and you should use the rubber feet
to make room for the speaker wire. No
matter how you mount them, just
remember the “in-phase” tweeter (when the
surround is placed in the room) should be
facing forward toward the left, center and
right speakers (Fig.6). The “out of phase”
or reverse polarity tweeter should face the
back of the room. No home theater
system is complete without a quality
subwoofer. We recommend using the
#300-739 10" Titanic Subwoofer with this
Home Theater System. Also designed by
V ance Dickason, the 10" Titanic Subwoofer
produces quick, accurate and powerful
bass. The Titanic Subwoofer System will
produce more apparent bass when it is
placed near a corner. Choose a location
that is close to the A/V components and
place it at the front of the listening area.
FIGURE 6: Typical Room Placement
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DISTRIBUTED BY:
725 Pleasant V alley Drive
Springboro, Ohio 45066-1158
Phone: 937-743-3000
Fax: 937-743-1677
E-mail: sales@partsexpress.com
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