Panoz GTS_Owner Manual Owner Manual

Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

Quaker State – Recommended fill for the GTS

Welcome to the Panoz family. We want to thank you for all of the time

that you have taken and for placing your trust in us by purchasing a Panoz

Esperante GTS Race Car. We look forward to working and playing with you

at the race track.

This manual is meant to assist you in the care, tuning and enjoyment of

your GTS. The information compiled in this book is from our own experience

and that of your fellow racers. This manual will be constantly updated as

components are upgraded and information is accumulated. We would also

appreciate your input for future revisions to this book.

This manual will not provide specific race set-ups and strategies. We will

explain how to tune your suspension but other than a neutral starting point

we won’t tell you how to set your suspension for individual events. For fur-

ther information about race strategies, suspension tuning, car set-ups and

driving techniques we recommend the following books:

• Tune to Win- Carroll Smith

• Drive to Win- Carroll Smith

• Prepare to Win- Carroll Smith

Taking Delivery

We have checked and double-checked the condition of the car. It should

be in good condition, however, we strongly suggest going through the car

with a torque wrench and a careful eye before you take it to the track. If

anything is wrong or out of place please let us know, we want to make sure

our system is working.

Please familiarize yourself with the basic layout of the car. Note the elec-

trical shut-off switch, fire extinguisher equipment and the fuel system safety

features. Pay attention to where the shipper tied the car down to the trailer.

There are many choices for tying down the car. The primary consideration is

for safety. Be sure to avoid damage to fuel lines, brake lines, suspension

parts and electrical wires when you tie it down to your own trailer.

Panoz Esperante GTS

RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

The Power to Reduce Friction

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Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE

WARNING Indicates a strong possibility
of severe personal injury or loss of life

if instructions are not followed.

CAUTION: Indicates a possibility of
personal injury or equipment damage

if instructions are not followed.

NOTE: Gives helpful information.

Detailed descriptions of standard workshop
procedures, safety principles and service
operations are NOT included. It is important
to note that this manual contains Some
warnings and cautions against some specific
service methods which could cause PER­SONAL INJURY to service personnel or
could damage a vehicle or render it unsafe.
Please understand that those warnings
could not cover all conceivable ways in
which service, whether or not recommended
by Panoz, might be done or of the possibility
hazardous consequences of each conceivable
way, nor could Panoz investigate all such
ways. Anyone using service procedures or
tools, whether or not recommended by
Panoz, must satisfy himself thoroughly that
neither personal safety nor vehicle safety will
be jeopardized by the service methods or
tools selected.

WARNING:

1. THIS VEHICLE IS INTENDED FOR USE AS A HIGH
PERFORMANCE RACING VEHICLE. THERE ARE
SIGNIFICANT RISKS AND DANGERS ASSOCIATED
WITH THE OPERATION AND/OR RACING OF HIGH
SPEED AND HIGH PERFORMANCE VEHICLES
INCLUDING THE POSSIBILITY OF SERIOUS
PHYSICAL INJURY OR DEATH.

2. THIS VEHICLE WILL NOT WITHSTAND ALL
FORESEEABLE IMPACTS WHICH MAY OCCUR
DURING IT’S NORMAL INTENDED USE AS A
RACING VEHICLE WITHOUT POSSIBLE INJURY
TO OR DEATH OF THE DRIVER OR DAMAGE
TO THE VEHICLE WHICH MAY EFFECT IT’S
PERFORMANCE AND SAFE USE.

3. OTHER RACE PARTICIPANTS, THEIR AUTO-

MOBILES, TRACK CONDITIONS AND OTHER
FACTORS BEYOND THE CONTROL OF THE
VEHICLE DESIGNER, MANUFACTURER,
DISTRIBUTOR AND SELLER MAY CONTRIBUTE
TO THE ABOVE DANGERS AND RISKS. THE
OWNER AND DRIVER OF THIS VEHICLE HERE
BY ACKNOWLEDGE THAT THERE MAY BE
OTHER RISKS AND DANGERS WHICH ARE NOT
REASONABLY FORESEEABLE TO THE VEHICLE
DESIGNER, MANUFACTURER, DISTRIBUTOR
AND SELLER.

4. THE OWNER AND DRIVER OF THIS VEHICLE

HEREBY ACKNOWLEDGE THAT THEY HAVE
READ THE WARNING STATED HEREIN AND
THAT THEY VOLUNTARILY ACCEPT AND
ASSUME ALL SUCH RISKS AND DANGERS,
INCLUDING SERIOUS PHYSICAL INJURY OR
DEATH AND ANY AND ALL RELATED DAMAGES,
HOWEVER CAUSED AND WHETHER CAUSED IN
WHOLE OR IN PART BY THE NEGLIGENCE OR
FAULT OF THE VEHICLE DESIGNER, MANUFAC­TURER, DISTRIBUTOR OR SELLER.

5. DO NOT OPERATE THIS VEHICLE IF YOU ARE

NOT FULLY TRAINED AND EXPERIENCED WITH
SKILLS NECESSARY TO OPERATE A HIGH
SPEED AND HIGH PERFORMANCE RACING
VEHICLE OF THIS TYPE.

,

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GENERAL SAFETY

CARBON MONOXIDE

If the engine must be running to do some work,

make sure the area is well ventilated. Never run the

engine in an enclosed area.

The exhaust contains poisonous carbon

monoxide gas that can cause loss of con-

sciousness and may lead to death

Run the engine in an open area or with an exhaust

evacuation system in an enclosed area

GASOLINE

Work in a well ventilated area, keep cigarettes,

flames or sparks away from work area or where gaso-

line is stored.

Gasoline is extremely flammable and is

explosive under certain conditions.

KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN!

HOT COMPONENTS

Engine and exhaust systems parts become very hot

and remain hot for some time after the engine is run.

Wear insulated gloves or wait until the engine and

exhaust system have cooled before handling

these parts.

USED ENGINE OIL

Used engine oil may cause skin cancer if repeatedly

left in contact with the skin for prolonged periods.

Although this is unlikely unless you handle used oil on

a daily basis, it is still advisable to thoroughly wash

your hands with soap and water as soon as possible

after handling used oil. KEEP OUT OF REACH

OF CHILDREN!

BRAKE DUST

Wear a dust mask when dealing with brake assem-

blies or cleaning the rotors to minimize the hazard

caused by airborne asbestos fibers.

BRAKE FLUID

CAUTION:

Spilling fluid on painted, plastic or rubber parts will

damage them.

KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN!

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Panoz Esperante GTS

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RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

GET TO KNOW YOUR PANOZ GTS

Driver’s seat

We did not install the driver’s seat. This allows you to
position the seat as you see fit. All of the hardware is
included. Installation instructions are on page 11.

Seat Belts

Seat belts have a shelf life of approximately 2 years.
Take note of the date printed on the tag of your seat
belts and plan to replace them every 2 years from the
date printed on the tag.

Jetting/Tuning

Your car is delivered with the following jets:

76 Fronts

81 Rears
This refers to the jetting guide (110 leaded racing gas).
The jetting guide is to be used as a reference only. In
most cases this is a good safe starting point. It is your
responsibility to read the spark plugs and tailpipe
color. Colder ambient temperatures require more fuel.
It is a good idea to fit the the car with exhaust gas
temperature (EGT) probes. The ignition timing is set
to 36° total advance (rpm over 3000). We do not rec­ommend advancing the timing further than that. You
will not gain any more horsepower, and you could
put the motor into a detonation condition. Detonation
usually occurs at peak torque around 4000 RPMs.
We recommend running leaded race fuel. Unleaded
fuels are too difficult to tune (DO NOT USE). Reading
a spark plug burning unleaded gas is very difficult.
Detailed information can be found in the Engine tuning
section on page17.

Brakes

Your car is delivered with new brake rotors and pads.
Your front rotors come pre-bedded. The rear rotors
are not. Brembo has not found it necessary to pre-bed
the rear rotors. They will get bedded when you bed
your pads. You should bed the pads using the follow­ing procedure.

1. Drive the vehicle in an aggressive Sunday drive
fashion (no threshold braking), for 3-4 laps.

2. return to the pits and let the brakes cool to the
touch.

IMPORTANT

The brakes require heat in them before they work to
maximum performance. Drag the brakes on your
warm up lap to add heat into the system.

Fuel Cell

Your fuel cell should be serviced at least once a year.
The fuel pick up screens should be replaced, the
check valves should checked for proper operation and
the fuel cell gaskets and gas cap gasket should be
replaced. Most importantly, the bladder should be
inspected for any fuel leaks or blistering. Any damage
or broken components should be replaced before use.
Your fuel cell has a build date printed on a label locat­ed on the right side of the tank. You can see it through
the right rear wheel well. Take note of the date and
expect to test or replace the fuel cell after 3 years or
if a leak is detected.

Aircraft Rubber Manufacturing, Inc.

250 SE Timber Ave.
Redmond, Oregon 97756
[phone] / [phone]
FAX [phone]
www.fuelsafe.com
www.aircraftrubber.com

Fire Bottles

Be sure to pull the pins and check the gauges of
your fire bottles to ensure that they are full before and
during each event.

Fluids

• Check fluid levels after each time on the track.
Engine oil is Quaker State Full Synthetic 5w50 or
5w40 (9 quarts total fill)

• Transmission Fluid is 2.5 quarts Quaker State Full
Synthetic 75W-90 GL-4

• Differential is Quaker State Full Synthetic GL-5
(3 quarts total fill).

• Water is Red Line Water Wetter (one bottle)

• Brake Fluid (bleed after each race weekend/event)
Brembo Racing LCF600 (Brembo does not recom­mend mixing brake fluids, if you are planning to
use a different fluid you should flush the system
completely).
Hydraulic Clutch uses Quaker State DOT 3
(550°F).

Panoz Esperante GTS

Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

VEHICLE SPECIFICATIONS

Dimensions

Wheelbase: 107.6 in.(2690 mm)
Track (f/r) 63.0/65.8 in.(1575/1645 mm)
Overall Length: 170.0 in. (4250mm.)
Overall Width: 78.0 in.(1950mm.)
Overall Height: 51.0 in.(1275mm.)
Curb Weight: 2685 lbs.(1217kg.
Fuel Capacity: 32.0 gal.(121.6L)

Body and Chassis

• BODY: Lightweight, damage-resistant ABS plastic with
acrylic exterior layer 15 easily replaceable panel with
standardized mounting points. Safety glass windshield;
clear acrylic rear window.

• CHASSIS: 1.75(43.75mm) x 1.75, .090(2.25 mm) wall,
mild steel space frame 1.75x .095 DOM 8-point roll
cage w/triple tube side protection 18-gauge interior
panels, welded in. Meets all SCCA tech and safety
requirements

Engine/Drivetrain

Layout: Front mid-engine, rear drive

Engine: Ford Motorsports 5.8-liter,

16-valve V-8

Compression Ratio: 10.5:1

Horsepower@RPM: 430bhp @ 5,850

Torque @ RPM: 435 lb/ft @ 4,500

Cylinder Heads: Edelbrock Performer

Carburetion: Holley 4bbl., 750cfm Double

Pump carburetor

Ignition: MSD 6ALN Ignition Control

Transmission: Tremec 5-speed manual

Gear Ratios: 1st=2.87:1, 2nd=1.89:1,

3rd=1.28:1, 4th=1.00:1, 5th=0.82:1

Final Drive: 3.89:1, Ford 9-inch w/ TruTrac

(.350:1 optional)

Differential cooler w/integrated pump

Clutch: QuarterMaster V-Extreme 8.5” alu-

minum flywheel and clutch assembly

Exhaust: Hedman Headers, Magnaflow

Mufflers

Suspension, Brakes, Wheels, Steering

• SUSPENSION (F/R): Unequal length A Arm Penske
single adjustable coil-over shock absorbers
Two-position adjustable sway bar, 1.25” dia.
Live axle located by trailing arms and Watts Link
Penske single adjustable coil-over shock absorbers
Three-position adjustable sway bar, 0.75” dia.

• BRAKES (F/R): Brembo 4-piston 40/44mm 328 mm
slotted & vented, floating rotors (pre-bedded). Pads:
Hawk HT-10 (black) or Performance Frictions 97
Brembo 4-piston 36/40 hydraulic calipers. 320 mm
slotted & vented, floating rotors. Pads: Hawk HT-10
(front) and Hawk 9012 (rear) or Performance
Frictions 97

• WHEELS: BBS RX 18”x10” (457x254mm) aluminum

• TIRES: 285/640x18 Pirelli P-Zero Slicks

• STEERING: Rack and pinion 3 turns lock-to­lock,15:1 steering ratio

Equipment & Controls

Steel braided fuel and oil lines, Front brake cooling
ducts, Aluminum high support one piece racing seat
of various widths, Fittipaldi 3-spoke steering wheel
with quick release, Autometer 2-5/8” Ultra Lite gauges
and lighted 10k rpm Monster Tach with memory,
Stack Dash Loggers (optional), Pi Research System2
digital instruments (optional), Wilwood brake bias
control system (cockpit adjustable), Fuel Safe fuel cell
with bladder located within chassis rails, 3-inch 5-Point
safety harness, Driver’s side window net, Manual
Halon fire extinguisher system; driver and remote
operated, Driver and remote battery kill key, Illuminating
tail lights and brake lights, Remote battery boost
connector, Left and right side mirrors (electric remote
optional), Single electric wiper, Opening doors.

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RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

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Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

Quaker State – Recommended fill for the GTS

At T he Track

Fuel Mileage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

After On-Track Session . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Trailer Tie Down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Torque Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Seat Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Even though we checked the torques, you should continue to check things while
waiting for track time. Be sure to check all torques, specifically:

• Header bolts 3/8” 12 point wrench, must check after first 4 sessions.
This should happen anytime that you change the engine.

• Header collector nuts and bolts - after every other session.

• Body bolts - check after each event.

• Use anti-seize on spark plugs (gap set to 0.045)

This list does not include everything,just the items that are a little out of the ordinary.
Please see the GTS Torque Specification check list in this section.

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RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

The Power to Reduce Friction

Panoz Esperante GTS

Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Fuel Mileage

Typically the Panoz GTS cars get 4 miles per gallon.
Panoz GTS cars have 32-gallon fuel cells. When
measuring fuel; 7/8” equals 2 gallons. Panoz recom­mends using 110 octane, leaded racing fuel. If you
are using a different fuel, be sure to jet the carburetor
accordingly. Using the leaded fuel allows you to
”read” the spark plugs and tail pipe much easier.

HINT: Purchase a wooden dowel rod and scribe it in
7/8” increments. This will allow you to measure your
fuel level accurately.

After On-Track Session

NUT & BOLT CAR

A: Place car on jack stands.

B: Remove hood and rear deck lids.

C: Grab each wheel and tire, shaking and pulling it;

checking for anything that may feel loose or worn
out (wheel bearings, heims, etc); they should be
very little, if any, play.

D: Remove wheels and tires and check over all sus-

pension parts. You are checking for anything that
may have loosened up, cracked or broken during
the track session.

E: Re-Tighten all body fasteners after every race

weekend (snug fasteners, do not over tighten).

F: Always look for not only loose fasteners, but any

leaks or anything that looks out of place or not
right (plug wires, electrical connections fluid levels,
etc.).

G: Check brake pads for thickness and wear charac-

teristics. Check the rotors for heat cracks - heat
check cracks on the surface of the rotor are normal.
They should extend over the top of the rotor or
away from from any of the mounting locations.
Also check the calipers.

H: This is also a good time to bleed the brake and

clutch systems since the car is off the ground.

I: Bleed brakes at least once during and after each

race/track event. For maximum performance,
bleed brakes after each all out driving session.
The brake pedal should not get soft during any
track event. If a soft pedal condition occurs bleed
brakes more frequently

Trailer Tie Down

When taking delivery of your Panoz GTS note where
the shipper tied the car down. You can use the tow
strap to winch your GTS onto the trailer.

* DO NOT TIE THE GTS DOWN USING THE FRONT
TOW STRAP OR REAR TOW HOOK.

• DO NOT TIE DOWN OVER THE REAR TRAILING
(RADIUS) ARMS. Below you will see where we tie
ours down. After tying the car down take the car out
of gear to save on driveline wear. When figuring the
wear on your shock absorbers remember that they
are working while the car is in transit.

Note: Be careful that your tie down straps don’t
pinch or rub on the brake lines, fuel lines and electri­cal wires during transit.

Page 9

Rear

Front

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Panoz Esperante GTS

Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

GTS Torque Specifications (CHECK BEFORE EACH RACE)

Vehicle

Part Description Torque LBS. Quantity

Brake strut bar, rear 45 2 __________

Brake strut bar, rear 45 2 __________

Brake strut bar, front 23 2 __________

Brake strut bar jamb-nuts 45 4 __________

Spindle mounting bolt, top 45 2 __________

Spindle mounting bolt,inside top 45 2 __________

Spindle mounting bolt, inside bottom 90 2 __________

Spindle mounting bolt, bottom 45 2 __________

Shock mounting bolt 45 8 __________

Caliper braket to spindal, front 50 4 __________

Front Caliper Mounting Nut & Stud 25 4 __________

Rear Caliper Mounting Nut & Stud 12 4 __________

Caliper hardware bolts 10 8 __________

Rotor Disc to Rotor Hat (Brembo) 60 in. lbs. 10/wheel __________

Rotor Hat to Hub (Brembo) 25 20 __________

Sway bar arm, front 45 2 __________

Sway bar arm, rear 23 2 __________

Steering shaft jamb-nuts 15 6 __________

Upper control arm mounting bolts 110 4 __________

Tie-rod jamb nuts 25 4 __________

Motor mount nuts 90 2 __________

Transmission mount nuts 35 2 __________

Transmission mount bolts 50 2 __________

Transmission crossmember bolts 35 2 __________

Front cross brace support 90 2 __________

Crush box bolts,upper & lower 45 4 __________

Swaybar heimjoint jamb-nut, front 35 4 __________

Trailing arms, rear 120 4 __________

Watts link arm bolts, inner & outer 80 4 __________

Brake rotor mounting bolts (Coleman/AP) 20 32 __________

Drive shaft U bolts 35 2 __________

Diff. Chunk mounting nuts 35 10 __________

Wheel lug nuts 90 20 __________

See maintenance section for torque specifications according to bolt grade.

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RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Seat Installation

Because of differences in driver’s size these instruc-

tions should be used as a general guideline only.

A: Place seat tray inside of car.

B: Place a 2”x6” board inside the tray.

C: Set seat on top of 2”x6”

D: Sit in seat and using 1” and/or 2” boards to

achieve a comfortable height and angle.

E: Once comfortable with seat location mark the seat

so it’s angle can be recreated outside the car.

F: Remove seat, boards and seat tray and recreate

angle and height according to your markings.

G: Clamp seat to seat tray and using a 3/8” drill bit,

drill bolt holes.

H: Install bolts from outside of seat to inside of seat.

(Use spacers/washers as required)

I: Place seat back in the car. Now is a good time to

route your lap belts through the seat.

J: Confirm seat location and fasten seat tray from the

bottom up.

K: Don’t forget to attach the fifth point of your harness.

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Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

Quaker State – Recommended fill for the GTS

Driver
Feedback

Driver Feedback at the Track . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Crew Chief’s Communication Responsibilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Driver’s Communication Responsibilities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Defining the Corner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Corner Breakdown Feedback . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

Common Feedback Traps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14

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The Power to Reduce Friction

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RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Driver Feedback at the Track

Often times, one of the most misunderstood practices
at the track is proper communication. Some racers
wear all the hats at the track; driver, crew chief and
mechanic. In some cases these racers have an
advantage, their communication is on a more person­al level. This section deals with communicating what
the race car is doing on the track, in order to make
the proper adjustments to go fast. It is important for
the driver and the crew chief to understand each
other. For the “do all” racer this section may be help­ful in bringing thoughts to the front of your mind to
solve driveability or handling issues.

The first step in communication is understanding the
personality of the other person. What are they telling
me or how will they react to my comments. In all
cases ego’s must be put aside. It’s not about who is
right or wrong, it’s about understanding the situation
and making adjustments to fix it. Communication
skills between the crew chief the driver are essential
for proper adjustment of the suspension. They must
create a comfortable language so that each under­stand what the other is describing.

The Crew Chief’s Communication
Responsibilities

A: Make it easy for the driver to provide clear and

informative feedback.

B: The driver must be comfortable and satisfied with

the cornering of the car so the crew chief should
accept the driver’s feedback “as is” and try to
understand the driver’s interpretation of the car’s
actions. Simply put, if the driver doesn’t like the
way the car is cornering then something must be
done to correct it.

C: Build the driver’s confidence by accepting their

comments and making the necessary changes to
make the driver more comfortable.

D: The driver may have trouble communicating what

the car is doing. It’s the crew chief’s job to inter­pret the driver’s description and adjust the car
even if the driver’s description is different than the
real problem. If the driver keeps repeating the
same thing and you still don’t understand, diplo­matically ask him/her to re-word the feedback.

E: Ask the driver several questions about his/her

feedback. Ignore any emotion or ego and intently
listen for quality responses.

F: Suggest other optional chassis changes that

address the driver’s feedback.

G: Each driver has a personal style and a chassis

set-up that works for one driver may not work for
another. Adapt to your driver instead of making
your driver adapt to the car.

H: Discuss and agree on the terminology of each part

of the corners and straights so you’re each talking
about the same area.

Driver’s Communication Responsibilities

A: Pay attention to how the car feels in each part of

each corner. Avoid using too much emotion. Be
specific about the car’s cornering characteristics —
if your crew chief doesn’t have detailed information
they can’t properly adjust the car.

B: Resist suggesting chassis changes before describing

what the car is doing.Explaining the car’s cornering
characteristics provides the crew chief with the
information they need. Making chassis suggestions
may interfere with their assessment.

C: Be brief. Give the crew chief your feedback in

short, detailed statements. Avoid telling stories or
cluttering your information with scenery.

D: It is appropriate to offer chassis changes only after

the crew chief has analyzed your feedback, tire
pressure, tire temperature and related suspension
settings.

E: Give your crew chief’s advice priority. Avoid other

people’s advice.

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Defining the Corner

To help the driver and crew chief understand each
other it is important that they use the same terminology.
The car will do different things in different portions of
a corner so here are common definitions of the corner.

A: Entry

The entry is the area where the driver lifts off the
throttle and begins braking. Steering input often
begins at the end of braking (except in trail braking
situations).

B: Apex

The apex is the point when the car is at the inner­most part of the corner. In road racing this is usu­ally a little past the center of the corner (referred
to as a late apex).

C: Exit

The exit is where steering input is reduced and the
car is at full throttle.

Corner Breakdown Feedback

In order to communicate properly each section of the
corner should be discussed in order. There is no ben­efit in worrying about the center of the corner if the
car is unstable on entry. The preceding zone affects
the next zone. Make sure that the car makes a good
entry, hits the apex and then exits the corner well.
Reconsider your adjustments if your corrective action
adversely affects any preceding zone in the corner
area you are addressing. There is more information
on this in the Suspension section of this manual.

Again, whenever making any adjustment you must
consider each corner area. Adjustments cannot upset
the preceding section.

Common Feedback Traps

Cars that are loose on entry nearly always push in
the middle as the driver simply is unable aggressively
turn the wheel at the right time. Basically, a loose
entry causes the driver to miss the entire turn. There
is no point making changes that deal with the middle
when the car is loose at entry.

Cars that push in the middle of the turn are very likely
to be loose on the corner exit. The angular momen­tum of the car is upset and the car travels off the exit
on the wrong line due to the push in the middle. The
car pushes and moves up. Upon exit the car runs out
of room in the groove and often becomes loose on
the late exit as the driver overturns to avoid running
off the track. Many times when you loosen the car up
to get a better run through the middle it will hook up
better on exit.

A car that is loose on corner entry should be cured at
all costs. A car that is loose on entry is uncomfortable
for the driver and is very difficult to drive. The driver
really has no way to adapt his line for a loose entry
problem. Basically, the driver just has to slow down and
ride. Cars that are loose on entry make for long day.

Panoz Esperante GTS

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Quaker State – Recommended fill for the GTS

Engine Tuning
Guide

General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Engine Tuning Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

Throttle Linkage Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Tuning the Panoz GTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Test Conditions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Carburetor Jetting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Changing Carburetor Jets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Jetting the Panoz GTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Exhaust Gas Temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Tools and Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Carburetor Adjusting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22

Idle Air Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23

Jetting Charts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24-26

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27-29

Page 16

Panoz Esperante GTS

RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

The Power to Reduce Friction

Panoz Esperante GTS

Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

General Information

This section relays hours of track experience related
to the proper tuning of your GTS engine. One of the
most important things that we have learned is that the
proper tuning for the engine and fuel delivery system
is a critical part of engine performance and endurance.
Deviating from the information presented can result in
premature failure of your engine. The GTS engine is
carbeureted and therefore requires proper monitoring
of the engine and weather conditions.

Normal Operating Temperatures...

Water 180° F to 210° F

Oil 210° F to 240° F
These ranges depend on the ambient conditions.
Temperatures higher than what is listed could indicate
an improper engine tuning condition.

Panoz has found peak performance with the engine
timing set at 34° to 36°, total advance. This must be
checked with the engine RPM at 3000 or slightly
above. Advancing the engine timing past 36° can cre­ate detonation. Another source for creating detonation
is running the motor too lean, overheating the com­bustion chamber and creating a pre-ignition condition.
This is not something that you can hear during a track
session. It can be detected by reading the spark plug
and watching oil temperatures on the track session.
We contracted L&B Engine development to help us
determine the proper operating conditions for the
Ford 351 engine. All of the information listed in this
section is related to an engine and fuel delivery sys­tem that comes with the GTS as it is delivered from
the factory. The jetting information will not apply to a
carburetor that has been blue printed*. Be sure to fol­low the jetting guide and back up the adjustments
with proper inspection. This information is presented
in more detail later in this section.

Normal on-track water temperature should be 180° F
to 210° F, Normal on-track oil temperature should be
in the range of 210° F to 240° F, depending on the
ambient condition. Temperatures higher than that
could indicate an improper engine tuning condition.

We strongly recommend the following:

• Run with leaded race gas. Most tracks have 110
leaded race fuel. You can also purchase drums to
carry with you. We do NOT recommend using
unleaded fuels. These fuels are oxygenated and dif­fer from batch to batch and brand to brand. Also
unleaded fuels make reading spark plugs very diffi­cult. Even though the compression ratio is 9.5:1, we
still recommend running110 leaded race gas.

• Purchase a Holley Carburetor Jetting Kit and carbu­retor tools (Jet Driver and Float bowl drain cup).

• Exhaust Gas Temperature(EGT) Sensor Kit - there
are a number of kits available or you can purchase
unique temperature instrumentation equipment from
Omega (www.omega.com). EGT profiles are
shown in the jetting guide listed in this document.

• Weather equipment - thermometer, barometer,
altimeter and air density meter.

• Follow the tuning guide, checking it each time you
run your GTS.

• Do not advance your timing more than 36° total
advance.

Page 17

Be sure to empty crank case breather catch can on a

regular basis.

*Blue printing is allowed per SCCA A sedan rules
(reference SCCA general competition rules ASCS­59D.1.a.B

Page 18

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Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Throttle Linkage Adjustment

Throttle linkage adjustment serves two purposes;
setting the pedal height for most comfortable driving
style and insuring that you are using100% of the
carburetor.

The throttle linkage includes the following parts:

•Throttle pedal

•Throttle pedal stop

•Accelerator bell crank

•Heim joint (LH thread)

•Accelerator Linkage Rod

•Heim joint (RH thread)

Anytime that the engine is removed or installed,
you must check to see that your linkage is adjusted
properly. Improper adjustment will cause a lack of
performance (not getting full throttle) or damage to the
carburetor throttle shaft due to excessive side loading.

RECOMMENDATION: THE FUEL SHOULD BE
DRAINED FROM THE FRONT AND REAR FLOAT
BOWLS DURING THE THROTTLE INSPECTION
PROCESS TO PREVENT FLOODING THE CYLINDERS.

Before you adjust the throttle linkage you should first
check that the secondary butterfly valves open 100%
when the throttle is fully opened. Panoz does this
adjustment before delivery, but it’s a good idea to check
it before you start racing or if you have purchased a
replacement carburetor.

Begin by opening the throttle while looking into the
venturies, if the secondary throttle blades don’t open
fully the secondary throttle linkage may need to be
bent (see Figure 2 note the bent rod unlike Figure 1)
to accomplish wide open throttle (throttle blades
straight up and down).

Inspection

The inspection process requires two people. It must
be checked by depressing the accelerator pedal, until
it hits the stop and looking into the carburetor ven­turies to see that the secondary throttle blades are
opening 100% (straight up and down).

NOTE: ONE PERSON INSPECTION BY PROCESS
OF STROKING THE CARBURETOR LINKAGE ONLY
WILL NOT ENSURE PROPER ADJUSTMENT OR
OPERATION.

Figure 1

Figure 2

Adjustment

The linkage adjustment process is a combination of
lengthening or shortening the throttle rod (setting the
pedal height) and adjusting the pedal stop to ensure
that carburetor is not getting over stroked.

At the same time the pedal stop hits the firewall, the
secondary throttle blades should just reach 100%
open. Lengthen the rod and adjust the pedal stop unit
you have 100% throttle valve open when when the
pedal stop hits the floor

Heel-toe pedal adjustment

In order to obtain optimum brake pedal to accelerator
pedal relationship (for heel-toe braking) you may have
to adjust the brake pedal height. Be sure to adjust
both master cylinder push rods equally to avoid
changing your brake bias. (Refer to the Brake System
Chapter for more information.)

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RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Page 19

Tuning the Panoz GTS V-8

The Panoz GTS engine was tested to determine
operating parameters for best power and safe oper­ation. We adjusted timing and jetting to find best
power with three different fuels. The information
was obtained through dyno testing and may vary
from results on the track. Use this information as a
guide, but watch your engine carefully (plugs, EGT
and performance) while you learn exactly what your
motor wants. We cannot assume responsibility for
problems.

In general, more fuel and less spark advance are
safer for your engine. WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND
STANDARD 110 OCTANE LEADED RACE FUEL
FOR BEST POWER AND ENGINE DURABILITY.

Test Conditions

All tests were done with these components and
settings:

• Ignition Timing - 36° BTDC @ 4000 RPM (best
power with least advance)

• Spark Plugs- Motorcraft AGSF-32C

• Carb - Testing was conducted with a stock Holley
4779C carb. The choke assembly was removed,
but the airhorn was left intact.

Page 20

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RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Carburetor Jetting

Page 21 is a summary of how to use jetting charts.
Three charts (pages 24-26) are provided, one for
each fuel tested. The charts are intended for easy
use with just a thermometer and the track altitude, or
a barometer.

Barometer- If you have a barometer, you don’t need
track altitude. The barometer must be UNCORRECT­ED, that is it must be calibrated to read 29.92”Hg with
standard conditions at sea level. The US Weather
Service uses corrected barometer readings at weath­er stations, meaning the barometers are calibrated to
read 29.92” for conditions standard to the weather
station altitude.

Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

Vapor Pressure- The chart is used to determine water
vapor pressure. Estimate the relative humidity to
select the proper row of the chart : Use 0% for crisp
dry weather, 50% for average days and 100% for
extremely humid, hazy or rainy day.s. Use the outside
air temperature (not CAT) to select the column. Read
the water vapor pressure from the chart, extrapolating
as needed. Greater accuracy is possible with a
portable weather station, but this simple chart works
quite well with a little experience.

Barometric Pressure- Subtract the chart water vapor
number from your barometer reading. Use this num­ber in the “Barometric Pressure” row at the bottom of
the jetting chart to find the proper column for jetting.

Barometric Pressure = Barometer Reading ­Vapor Pressure

Carburetor Jetting

A: Using a weather station, determine barometric

pressure and corrected altitude.

B: Refer to jetting chart provided.

Changing Carburetor Jets

A: There are (4) 5/16” bolts on the front and (4) 5/16”

bolts on the rear fuel bowls.

B: Remove front bowl using a jetting tool (a short

large blade flat-head screwdriver will work)
Remove existing jets.

C: Replace with desired jets.

D: Inspect float bowl gaskets for damage, or

excessive wear. (Replace as required)

E: Re-Install fuel bowl, making sure accelerator pump

operating lever is located under pump override spring.

F: Repeat steps on the secondary floats and jets.

G: DO NOT over tighten fuel bowls (This can crack or

cut the gaskets).

HINT: Write jet numbers on top of fuel bowls with
a paint pen for quick reference.

H: Check fuel pressure and set float level. See

carbeurator adjusting section on page 22.

Determining Jet Size

Quick and easy method

A: Determine the altitude of the racetrack.

Topographical maps for the entire US are available
free on the web at www.topozone.com.

B: Measure the outside air temperature.

C: Read jetting chart for correct fuel. (Match column

with track altitude. Match row with air temperature.
Read the correct jets off the chart. Extrapolate as
needed. Go richer when in doubt).

D: If it’s over 80° and extremely humid, go one size

smaller on all jets.

Example- It’s 90° out, average humidity and the
barometer reads 28.5”. We are using 110 leaded fuel.

Refer to Vapor Pressure chart below. Assume 50%
humidity and 90°. By extrapolation, vapor pressure is

0.75” Barometric Pressure=28.5 - 0.75 = 27.75” Refer
to 110LL jetting chart. Select 74 front jets and 79
rear jets.

Vapor Pressure (in. Hg)

Temperature (F)

60° 80° 100°

100% 0.5" 1.0" 2.0"

50% 0.25" 0.5" 1.0"

0% 0" 0" 0"

Page 21

Relative

Humidity

Jet Jet

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RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Page 22

Panoz Esperante GTS

Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT)

EGT was measured at the end of a long dyno pull,

with three different fuels. Thermocouple probes were

located in the exhaust primary tubes 1.5” from the

heads. These numbers should be comparable to what

you will see at the end of a long straight section of

track. Note how the cylinders are numbered on the

GTS Ford V8:

Sunoco 94 Pump Fuel

Front of engine

cyl 1 1386°

cyl 5 1092° cyl 2 1235°

cyl 6 1320° cyl 3 1195°

cyl 7 1319° cyl 4 1290°

cyl 8 1232°

Sunoco Standard 110 Leaded Race Fuel

Front of engine

cyl 1 1351°

cyl 5 1045° cyl 2 1179°

cyl 6 1229° cyl 3 1119°

cyl 7 1265° cyl 4 1242°

cyl 8 1204°

100LL Aviation Fuel

Front of engine

cyl 1 1346°

cyl 5 1258° cyl 2 1182°

cyl 6 1182° cyl 3 1140°

cyl 7 1251° cyl 4 1234°

cyl 8 1193°

Tools & Parts

The following jet kits and tools can be purchased at:

Jeg’s High Performance

751 East 11th Avenue

Columbus, OH 43211

[phone]

• Holley Jet Kit part# 510-36-181

• Moroso Drain Cup (float bowl) part# 710-65805

• Mr. Gasket Jet Driver part# 720-8016 or Jet Tool

• Jet Driver part# 710-62293

Carburetor Adjusting

A: Check for wide open throttle (set pedal heights for

proper heel/toe). Adjust for wide open throttle with

throttle rod.

B: Adjust the fuel pressure regulator (while cold)

using an allen wrench and a 5/8” wrench; adjust

fuel pressure to 7 PSI.If pressure does not change

with adjustment you may have a defective fuel

pressure regulator. Start motor and let idle while

making fuel pressure adjustment

C: Using a large blade flat head screwdriver, remove

fuel bowl sights.

D: Place rags under fuel bowl sights.

E: Again, with a large blade flat head screwdriver and

a 5/8” wrench, set fuel bowl level to the bottom of

bowl sights.

F: Re-install bowl sight plugs.

G: Set idle at 900 ‹ 1000 RPM's.

Note: If the levels are not changing with adjust-

ments; turn the motor off and remove locking screws

and lift adjusting nut. The bottom of the adjusting nut

is D-shaped. If the float adjusting valve goes down

too far, turn it back up enough to allow adjusting nut

to catch (usually 1/8”). Replace locking screw and

begin adjusting process again.

Allen Bolt

Jam Nut

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RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Page 23

Idle Air and Air Screw Adjustment:

The objective for adjusting the idle air mixture is to
keep the car running properly and not load up during
idle and low speed conditions. It can also effect on/off
throttle operation on the track. The goal is to create
the cleanest idle with the least amount of fuel. Some
people are able to perform this adjustment by listen­ing to the motor, while making adjustments. We will
describe the process using a vacuum gauge. There
are 4 air bleed screws on the carburetor. 2 on the
front metering block and 2 on the back metering block.

1. Remove the vacuum rubber plug from under the
front float bowl, and install the vacuum gauge
hose to the vacuum nipple.

2. Warm engine up to operating temperature.

3. If this is the first time that you have done this

procedure or if it is a new carburetor, turn the rear
air bleed screws all the way in (clockwise). Then
turn them back out 1/2 turn.

4. Read and know where the vacuum needle is
reading. We are not so concerned with the exact
numerical value, as we are with obtaining the
maximum vacuum with the least amount of fuel.

5. From either side, while watching the gauge, slowly
turn the air bleed screw clockwise until the vacuum
starts to go down. The engine may stumble a little.
Then slowly turn the screw out until you have
reached peak vacuum.

6. Repeat for the other side.

7. Go back and forth for fine adjustment.

8. Move to the rear bleed screws and slowly turn them

in (clockwise) until vacuum drops, then back out to
peak vacuum. The rear is usually more sensitive
than the front, requiring smaller adjustments.

9. Repeat on other side.

Idle Air Screw

Idle Air Screw

Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

Quaker State – Recommended fill for the GTS

Page 24

40°F

50°F

60°F

70°F

80°

90°F

100°F

11 0 ° F

120°F

130°F

140°F

Ambient Air Temp

Left

Front

Right
Front

Left

Rear

Right
Rear

Key:

Left = Driver’s Left

Panoz GTS JEtting – Sunoco 94 Octane Pump Gas (v.2) NOT RECOMMENDED

Altitude

-1000 ft 0 ft 1000 ft 2000 ft 3000 ft 4000 ft 5000 ft 6000 ft

85 85 84 84 82 82 81 81 79 79 78 78 76 76 75 75

91

85

90

84

89

83

88

82

87

81

86

81

86

80

85

79

84

79

83

78

83

31.05 29.92 28.83 27.79 26.78 25.81 24.87 23.97

Barometric Pressure (inches Hg)

Altitude

-1000 ft 0 ft 1000 ft 2000 ft 3000 ft 4000 ft 5000 ft 6000 ft

85 85 84 84 82 82 81 81 79 79 78 78 76 76 75 75

91 91 89 89 87 87 86 86 84 84 83 83 81 81 80 80

85 85 83 83 81 81 80 80 78 78 77 77 76 76 74 74

90 90 88 88 86 86 85 85 83 83 82 82 80 80 79 79

84 84 82 82 81 81 79 79 78 78 76 76 74 74 73 73

89 89 87 87 86 86 84 84 82 82 81 81 79 79 78 78

83 83 81 81 80 80 78 78 77 77 76 76 74 74 73 73

88 88 86 86 85 85 83 83 82 82 80 80 79 79 78 78

82 82 81 81 79 79 78 78 76 76 75 75 74 74 73 73

87 87 86 86 84 84 82 82 81 81 79 79 78 78 77 77

81 81 80 80 78 78 77 77 76 76 74 74 73 73 72 72

86 86 85 85 83 83 82 82 80 80 79 79 78 78 77 77

81 81 79 79 78 78 76 76 75 75 74 74 73 73 72 72

86 86 84 84 82 82 81 81 79 79 78 78 77 77 77 77

80 80 78 78 77 77 76 76 74 74 73 73 72 72 72 72

85 85 83 83 82 82 80 80 79 79 78 78 77 77 76 76

79 79 78 78 76 76 75 75 74 74 73 73 72 72 71 71

84 84 83 83 81 81 80 80 79 79 77 77 77 77 76 76

79 79 77 77 76 76 74 74 73 73 72 72 71 71 71 71

83 83 82 82 80 80 79 79 78 78 77 77 76 76 76 76

78 78 76 76 75 75 74 74 73 73 72 72 71 71 71 71

83 83 81 81 80 80 78 78 77 77 77 77 76 76 75 75

31.05 29.92 28.83 27.79 26.78 25.81 24.87 23.97

Barometric Pressure (inches Hg)

Panoz Esperante GTS

RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

The Power to Reduce Friction

Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

Quaker State – Recommended fill for the GTS

Page 25

40°F

50°F

60°F

70°F

80°

90°F

100°F

11 0 ° F

120°F

130°F

140°F

Ambient Air Temp

Left

Front

Right
Front

Left

Rear

Right
Rear

Key:

Left = Driver’s Left

Panoz GTS Jetting – 100LL Aviation Gas (v.2) NOT RECOMMENDED

Altitude

-1000 ft 0 ft 1000 ft 2000 ft 3000 ft 4000 ft 5000 ft 6000 ft

85 85 84 84 82 82 81 81 79 79 78 78 77 77 75 75

89 89 87 87 85 85 84 84 82 82 81 81 79 79 78 78

85 85 83 83 82 82 80 80 79 79 77 77 76 76 74 74

88 88 86 86 85 85 83 83 82 82 80 80 79 79 77 77

84 84 82 82 81 81 79 79 78 78 76 76 75 75 74 74

87 87 85 85 84 84 82 82 81 81 79 79 78 78 77 77

83 83 82 82 80 80 79 79 77 77 76 76 74 74 73 73

86 86 85 85 83 83 82 82 80 80 79 79 77 77 76 76

82 82 81 81 79 79 78 78 76 76 75 75 74 74 73 73

85 85 84 84 82 82 81 81 79 79 78 78 77 77 76 76

82 82 80 80 79 79 77 77 76 76 74 74 73 73 73 73

85 85 83 83 82 82 80 80 79 79 77 77 76 76 75 75

81 81 79 79 78 78 76 76 75 75 74 74 73 73 73 73

84 84 82 82 81 81 79 79 78 78 77 77 76 76 75 75

80 80 79 79 77 77 76 76 74 74 73 73 73 73 72 72

83 83 82 82 80 80 79 79 77 77 76 76 75 75 75 75

79 79 78 78 76 76 75 75 74 74 73 73 73 73 72 72

82 82 81 81 79 79 78 78 77 77 76 76 75 75 74 74

79 79 77 77 76 76 74 74 73 73 73 73 72 72 72 72

82 82 80 80 79 79 77 77 76 76 75 75 75 75 74 74

78 78 77 77 75 75 74 74 73 73 73 73 72 72 71 71

81 81 79 79 78 78 77 77 76 76 75 75 74 74 74 74

31.05 29.92 28.83 27.79 26.78 25.81 24.87 23.97

Barometric Pressure (inches Hg)

Panoz Esperante GTS

RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

The Power to Reduce Friction

Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

Quaker State – Recommended fill for the GTS

Page 26

40°F

50°F

60°F

70°F

80°

90°F

100°F

11 0 ° F

120°F

130°F

140°F

Ambient Air Temp

Left

Front

Right
Front

Left

Rear

Right
Rear

Key:

Left = Driver’s Left

Panoz GTS Jetting – Sunoco Standard Leaded 110 Octane RECOMMENDED

Altitude

-1000 ft 0 ft 1000 ft 2000 ft 3000 ft 4000 ft 5000 ft 6000 ft

82 82 81 81 79 79 78 78 76 76 75 75 74 74 72 72

87 87 86 86 84 84 83 83 81 81 80 80 78 78 77 77

81 81 80 80 78 78 77 77 76 76 74 74 73 73 72 72

87 87 85 85 83 83 82 82 80 80 78 78 77 77 76 76

81 81 79 79 78 78 76 76 75 75 74 74 72 72 71 71

86 86 84 84 83 83 81 81 80 80 78 78 77 77 76 76

80 80 78 78 77 77 76 76 74 74 73 73 71 71 71 71

85 85 83 83 82 82 80 80 79 79 77 77 76 76 75 75

79 79 78 78 76 76 75 75 73 73 72 72 71 71 70 70

84 84 83 83 81 81 80 80 78 78 77 77 76 76 75 75

78 78 77 77 76 76 74 74 73 73 71 71 71 71 70 70

83 83 82 82 80 80 79 79 77 77 76 76 75 75 74 74

78 78 76 76 75 75 74 74 72 72 71 71 70 70 70 70

83 83 81 81 80 80 78 78 77 77 76 76 75 75 74 74

77 77 76 76 74 74 73 73 72 72 71 71 70 70 69 69

82 82 80 80 79 79 77 77 76 76 75 75 74 74 74 74

76 76 75 75 74 74 72 72 72 72 70 70 70 70 69 69

81 81 80 80 78 78 77 77 76 76 75 75 74 74 73 73

76 76 74 74 73 73 72 72 71 71 70 70 69 69 69 69

80 80 79 79 78 78 76 76 75 75 74 74 74 74 73 73

75 75 74 74 72 72 71 71 70 70 70 70 69 69 68 68

80 80 78 78 77 77 76 76 75 75 74 74 73 73 73 73

31.05 29.92 28.83 27.79 26.78 25.81 24.87 23.97

Barometric Pressure (inches Hg)

Panoz Esperante GTS

RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

The Power to Reduce Friction

Panoz Esperante GTS

Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

SPARK PLUG TECH TALK

Panoz recommends when installing spark plugs to
use a torque wrench and the correct torque in ft.-lbs.
listed below. If a torque wrench is not available, hand
tighten the plug until it is seated in the cylinder head.
Spark plugs with gaskets should be tightened an
additional 90°. Spark plugs with tapered seats should
be tightened an additional 15°.

NOTE: Avoid over tightening or under tightening as
spark plug or engine damage may result.

Thread Size

10MM WITH GASKET

12MM WITH GASKET

14MM WITH GASKET

14MM TAPERED SEAT

18MM WITH GASKET

18MM TAPERED SEAT

Torque FT.-LBS:

8-11

12-15

19-22

12-15

20-23

14-17

(if anti-seize material is used, reduce the torque rec-

ommendations by 30%).

IMPORTANT, PLEASE READ

Plugs must be tightened with a torque wrench. Failure
to sufficiently seat the plug in the engine spark seat
will likely result in one or more of the following:

Damaged spark plug (melting of electrodes, separation
of the insulator from the shell, discoloration of shell
and terminal nut), burnt spark plug wire and severe
engine damage. Avoid over torquing of the spark
plug which will result in plug damage (insulator can
become loose and center electrode can melt).

Make sure cylinder head plug threads are free of
carbon deposits — if necessary “chase” threads with
a cleaning tool.

INSTALLATION TIPS

To avoid problems later, it is always wise to check
that the plug has the correct reach for the engine and
that the gasket is in place during installation (see
figure 1). However, some plugs do not require a gas­ket (see figure 2). These are usually plugs with a
conical (or tapered) seat. When installing these plugs,
it is important that the mating surfaces are clean and
that you do not over torque the plug. If a plug is
installed without a gasket, excessive heating and
pre-ignition may occur due to poor heat transfer and
blow-by of combustion gasses. Also, the threads will
project in the combustion chamber and become filled
with residue making removal difficult. On the other
hand, if two gaskets are used, residue will collect in
the exposed cylinder threads. This will make the next
installation of the correct plug extremely difficult. The
same conditions occur when installing a plug with
incorrect reach.

Page 27

Figure 1

Figure 2

Page 28

Panoz Esperante GTS

Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Spark Plug Analysis

(Reference plug image chart on page 29)

1-2: Normal

This is a normal looking spark plug. The insulator tip is
greyish white, but could also be greyish yellow to brown.
This indicates that the engine is in good operating condi­tion and that the heat range of the plug is correct.

3-4: Carbon Deposit

The velvet-like, dull black carbon deposits on the insulator,
electrodes and shell can be caused by any of the following:
incorrect mixture, dirty air filter, faulty automatic choke,
too cold of a spark plug or extreme stop-and-go driving
conditions. To remedy this situation, make appropriate
mixture adjustments, replace the air filter or use a hotter
spark plug in the case of extreme stop-and-go driving
conditions.

5-6: Oil Fouled

The wet, shiny deposits are oil. This excessive quantity
of oil can result from worn cylinders, piston rings or
valves. In a two-stroke engine, it indicates an oil mixture
that is too rich. To correct this problem, repair and/or
replace the worn parts. In either case, new spark plugs
should be installed.

7-8: Lead Deposit

The yellow insulator deposits are from fuel additives con­taining lead. With higher loads the deposit will become
conductive and can cause misfiring. New plugs should
be installed, because cleaning is ineffective.

9-10: Severe Lead Deposit

The brownish tint in the yellow glazed deposit is a combi­nation of carbon and lead from fuel and oil additives. They
accumulate on the insulator nose during slow driving
conditions and then melt when the vehicle begins hard
acceleration. As the plug cools, the deposits solidify.
Once again, cleaning and sandblasting are useless;
install new plugs.

11-12: Ash Deposits

The brownish, cinder-like deposits on the electrodes and
insulator are ash residues from oil and gas additives.
The alloying additives leave an unburnable ash in the
combustion chamber and on the spark plug. In serious
cases, it may be necessary to decarbonize the combustion
chamber before installing new spark plugs.

13: Partially Melted Center Electrode

A melted electrode, with a white and/or blistered insu­lator tip indicates incorrect heat range or insufficient
installation torque. Note: If the insulator has separated
from the shell and the shell is discolored, insufficient
installation torque is the cause. If the shell is not dis­colored over torquing is the cause. Spark plug misfir­ing will occur and engine damage can result. A thor­ough tune-up should be performed, and the appropri­ate plug application heat range should be verified
before installing any new spark plugs.

14: Melted Center Electrodes

The melting of the center electrode is the result of
abnormal combustion; for example, knocking or over­advance ignition timing. Misfiring will occur. Power loss
and possibile engine damage can result. A thorough
tune-up with new plugs is necessary.

15: Partially Melted Electrodes

A melted ground electrode can be caused by pre-ignition
Pre-ignition can result from hot spots in the combustion
chamber, over-advanced ignition timing, lean air/fuel
mixtures, defective distributor advance mechanisms,
deposits in the combustion chamber, defective cylinder
head or manifold gaskets. To avoid pre-ignition, a
thorough tune-up is required before installing new
spark plugs.

16: Center Electrode Erosion

This erosion is caused by not observing replacement
intervals. Misfiring and poor starting behavior will result.
Install new spark plugs.

17: Ground Electrode Erosion

This electrode erosion was the result of aggressive
fuel and oil additives. It was further aggravated by
unfavorable gas turbulence in the combustion chamber
caused by heavy deposits. This is not a heat range
problem. Effects include hard starting and hesitation
on acceleration. Install new spark plugs.

18: Insulator Nose Breakage

This damage is from impact, drop or pressure on the
center electrode. If the plug has been used for too
long, the insulator nose can be cracked by deposits
between the center electrode and the insulator and
from corrosion of the center electrode. New spark
plugs should be installed.

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Page 29

Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

Quaker State – Recommended fill for the GTS

Maintenance

Periodic Maintenance Schedule . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31

Service Maintenance Intervals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32

Oil Change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Power Steering Fluid Level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

Hardware and Torque Specifications . . . . . . . . . .34

Radiator fill procedure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Page 30

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The Power to Reduce Friction

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RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Page 31

Periodic Maintenance Schedule

This schedule is meant to be a guide, and is not meant to replace regular inspection. All components should be
inspected before and after EVERY race for signs of wear, fatigue or damage. We suggest you make copies of the
torque checklist included in this book to help you establish a pre race checklist. A space will be be provided
throughout the maintenance schedule for you to list the type of service part or brand and weight of fluid to be
used. There will also be a space for you to list an alternate schedule time if you find that this guide does not meet
or exceeds the needs of your car and driving style.

Part ; Service Life; Brand or Type

• Engine oil; 10hrs. Quaker State - 5w 40 F/S or 5w 50 F/S

• Engine oil filter; 10hrs. Motorcraft FL-1HP

• Transmission fluid; 20 hrs. Quaker State F/S GLH

• Fuel filter; 10hrs. Disassemble and clean with carburetor cleaner (back of car— brass)

• Clean air filter; 10 hrs. Clean and recharge with K&N kit.

• Rear diff. fluid; 20 hrs. Quaker State F/S GLS

• Rear diff. filter; 20 hrs. Disassemble and clean with parts cleaner.

• Power steering fluid; 20 hrs. Red Line power steering fluid

• Belts and hoses; Inspect after every run

• Bleed brakes; Every race, use Brembo 600 or equivalent (Do not mix)

• Brake pads and rotors; Inspect after every run

• Shocks; 40 hrs. Shocks must be sent to Panoz/Penske to be rebuilt and resealed.

• Springs; No service life has been determined. Periodic inspection and testing recommended.

• Steering components; Check torques and inspect for wear after every race. Some components are spec.
marked and must be obtained from Panoz Auto Development.

• Front suspension components; Check torques and inspect for wear after every track event. Some components
are spec. marked and must be obtained from Panoz Auto Development.

• Bleed clutch hydraulics; DOT3 550° F every event

• Rear suspension components; Check torques and inspect for wear after every track event. Some components
are spec. marked and must be obtained from Panoz Auto Development.

• Drive line; Motor, Transmission, Rear diff. Check all related components and hardware for your wear or damage
and proper torques after every track event.

• Wheel bearings; 20-30 hours bearings should be repacked using a high temp. synthetic grease.

• Electrical connections; All electrical connections, both positive and negative should be checked before every
race to be tight and free of corrosion.

• Body fasteners; Check all body hardware for tightness before every track event. Snug only- do not over tighten

• Accessories; Check lights, mirrors, wipers and additional components for proper operation before each track event

• Zerk fittings; Zerk fittings are provided on the upper control arms and universal joints, these fittings require
greasing after each weekend of racing.

Page 32

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Service Maintenance Intervals

● = Minimum ◆◆◆◆ = Recommended ◆ = Inspect

Service Item Track Events Hours of Operation

Every >> 12345610203040506080100

Brakes

Bleed Brakes

◆◆

◆◆

Caliper Rebuild ●

Brake Pads ◆

Brake Rotors ◆

Driveline

Engine Oil & Filter ●

Transmission Oil ●

Differential Oil ●

Power Steering Fluid ●

Cooling System ●

Filters

Air Filter

◆◆

◆◆ ●

Crank Case Breather

◆◆

◆◆ ●

Differential Catch Can

◆◆

◆◆ ●

Rebuild

Engine Rebuild

◆◆

◆◆

Transmission Rebuild

◆◆

◆◆

Differential ◆

Suspension

Shock Rebuild*

◆◆

◆◆

Suspension Link Connections ◆

Body

Body Fasteners

◆◆

◆◆

Safety

Seat Belts ◆ Replace every two years

Fuel Cell ◆ Have tested every year after two years

Fire Bottle ◆

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Page 33

Power Steering Fluid Level

Before delivery Panoz Auto Development modifies the
power steering pump reservoir to increase expansion
capacity. Fluid level should be just over the plastic
filter screen. There is no dipstick to check the power
steering fluid level so we use the screen as a reference.
Over filling the power steering pump will cause the fluid
to expand and leak out of the housing and causing a
potential fire hazard or oiling your tires or brakes.

Oil Change

A: Place car on jack stands.

B: Remove 2 (two) drain plugs from oil pan. (3/4”),

front sump and rear sump.

C: Remove oil filter.

D: Remove lower oil cooler line from oil remote.

E: Allow system to completely empty.

F: Re-install drain plugs and reconnect lower oil

cooler line.

G: Fill oil filter with oil; 3/4-1 full quart-Install filter

(rub a thin film of oil over the filter gasket).

H: Remove upper oil cooler line from oil remote filter

adapter.

I: The next step can be time consuming unless you

have access to an oil pump system.

J: After removing line from remote; start pouring new

oil back into cooler. You will need at least 1 1/2
quarts; ideally 2 full quarts.

K: Filling the oil filter and oil cooler will ensure proper

lubrication throughout the system.

L: Now fill motor accordingly. Six more quarts of oil

will take you to your nine quart total requirement.

M: Be sure the oil dipstick has a mark on it. Do not

rely on the standard markings on the dipstick. You
will want to mark the dipstick yourself.

N: Now prime motor by disconnecting MSD box and

turning motor over until oil pressure comes up.
(5 second intervals- do not overheat starter motor).

O: Reconnect MSD box and start car, checking

for leaks and/or loose connections.

Page 34

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RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Hardware and Torque Specifications

When working with the hardware (bolts, nuts, screws, etc...) it is important to know the proper use and torque specifi-

cations. Nyloc nuts cannot be re-used and should be replaced after use. All of the nuts and bolts on your GTS are

US Standard sized with the exception of the Brembo brake system parts which uses Metric hardware. Bolts come in

several grades depending on tensile strength needs. The bolt grade is indicated on the head using short lines pointing

towards the center of the bolt head. Except for a grade 2 bolt (which has no such lines) the number of lines determines

the bolt grade. Grade 5 bolts have 3 lines and grade 8 bolts have 6 lines. See the chart below for respective tensile

strengths and torques.

Diameter Grade 5 Grade 5 Grade 8 Grade 8

lubricated dry lubricated dry

(inches) Coarse Fine Coarse Fine Coarse Fine Coarse Fine

1/4 5 9 6 10 12 14 12 14

5/16 10 17 12 20 24 27 25 25

3/8 19 31 21 35 44 49 45 50

7/16 30 50 33 56 70 78 70 80

1/2 45 75 51 85 105 120 110 120

9/16 66 110 72 120 155 170 150 170

5/8 90 150 100 170 284 323 220 240

3/4 160 265 180 300 510 568 380 420

7/8 260 430 285 475 813 902 600 660

1 390 645 435 720 905 1030 900 1000

1-1/8 480 800 540 900

1-1/4 670 1120 745 1240

1-3/8 880 1470 1000 1670

1-1/2 1170 1950 1320 2200

Torque Charts

NUT AND BOLT FASTENER ASSEMBLY

Cap Screw Grade

* Recommended torque foot-pounds for lubricated fastener assembly (waxed nuts, anti-seize lubricants, etc.).
** Recommended torque foot-pounds for clean, dry, unlubricated fastener assembly.

+

Pounds per square inch of holding power

Grade

Grade 5 Grade 8

P.S.I. Tensile 120,000 150,000
Strength

+

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RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Radiator Fill Procedure

1. Confirm all hose clamps and water jacket fittings

are tight.

2. Remove the radiator cap and coolant reservoir
cap.

3. First fill through radiator neck, letting it drain
down.

4. Once the radiator is full, continue filling through
the coolant reservoir bottle (add Red Line Water
Wetter).

5. Start the motor and observe water temperature
closely. WATCH FOR AIR POCKETS IN THE
COOLING SYSTEM.

6. After the motor has run for a period of time and
there is no movement on the temperature gauge,
feel the left (driver’s side) of the radiator, if it is
cold, turn the motor off and carefully open the cap
on the radiator neck, more than likely there is an
air pocket.

7. When you remove the radiator cap, there may not
be water in the neck.

8. Slowly open the coolant reservoir cap, the water
should start to flow up the radiator.

9. Re-install the cap when the water reaches the
top.

10. Continue filling through the coolant reservoir bot­tle. DO NOT OVER FILL - YOU MUST ALLOW
ROOM FOR EXPANSION.

11. Restart the engine and continue observing the
water temperature.

12. Turn the cooling fan on when the water tempera
ture reaches 200° F. Cycle fan operation between
180° F and 200° F.

Page 35

Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

Quaker State – Recommended fill for the GTS

Engine

Engine Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Engine Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37

Ignition Distributor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

Oil Line Routing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38

Page 36

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The Power to Reduce Friction

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RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Engine Removal

A: Place car on jack stands.

B: Disconnect battery.

C: Drain oil, transmission fluid, water, and power

steering fluid.

D: Disconnect oil lines, water lines, power steering

lines, and brake ducts.

E: Remove water reservoir and upper chassis cross-

brace, oil temperature sensor, water temperature
sensor, and motor ground.

F: Remove front bumper/crush box clip (This is the

four 5/8” nuts with the 5/16"" allen-head bolts).

G: Once the front clip is out of the way, remove drive

shaft, transmission tunnel, remote shifter, switch
panel, and starter.

H: Disconnect crank case breather lines, fuel lines, air

cleaner, and carburetor. (Tape over the intake so
nothing can fall down into it).

I: Install intake plate.

J: Remove headers.

K: Remove 5/8” bolts from transmission crossmember.

L: Remove clutch line and clutch slave from motor.

M: Hook the engine lift to the intake plate.

N: Remove motor mount nuts.

O: Lift motor out of car (Be careful on the oil remote to

power steering pump clearance).

P: Be careful, making sure not to damage anything.

Engine Installation

A: When installing the engine, three people helping

would be best: one person to operate the engine
lift, one person to direct the engine into the bay and
one person inside the car to guide the transmission
into place.

B: Install accessories, fittings & sensors.

C: Power steering pump, belts (check for proper align-

ment), flywheel, clutch, throw-out bearing, refer to
clutch torque specifications, clutch slave brackets,
bell housing with clutch fork and adjustable pivot
ball, transmission and oil filter remote.

D: Before installing engine into the car, write down all

of your Panoz Seal Numbers: timing cover, intake,
transmission and valve covers.

E: Once the engine and transmission are set into place,

install the locknuts and washers onto the engine
mounts.

F: Install transmission crossmember bolts, drive shaft

and safety loop.

G: Install engine ground (to bellhousing), starter and

clutch slave.

H: Remove intake plate and tape. Install carburetor

spacer and carburetor and connect fuel line to carbu­retor.

I: Install headers and exhaust system.

J: Install crank case breathers (valve covers).

K: Install oil and water temperature sensors.

L: Connect wiring for the fan, distributor, and alternator.

M: Install plumbing, oil lines, power steering lines and

water reservoir.

N: Be sure to re-check wide open throttle on carburetor.

See page 18 for procedure

O: Fill fluids, transmission, water, power steering, and

oil. When filling the oil, it may be necessary to mark
the new oil dipstick. Put two quarts of oil in cooler,
one quart in the oil filter and six quarts in the engine
(Refer to oil change on page 33).

P: Install transmission tunnel, shifter and switch panel.

Q: Turn ignition on to energize fuel pump, set fuel pres-

sure and float bowls on carburetor (refer to carburetor
tuning section page 22).

R: Fill engine with coolant being careful not to overfill

(Refer to page 35 for procedure).

S: Prime the engine (disconnect MSD box and turn the

engine over in five second intervals until oil pressure
is achieved).

T: While you are priming the engine you will need to

continue to fill power steering fluid (fill to just above
filler neck screen).

U: Before firing the engine double check all belts, hoses

and fasteners to make sure nothing is leaking or rub­bing, and coolant level.

V: Re-connect MSD box and fire engine.

W:

While running you need to tune the carburetor
(set idle, fuel pressure, etc refer to page 22-23 for
carburetor adjustment procedure). Check timing.

Page 37

Page 38

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RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Ignition Distributor

The MSD 85805 distributor is legal for competition.
The unit has given us reliable performance and
durability.

IMPORTANT: Installation of this unit requires that
you purchase a steel or bronze gear, which must be
pressed on. This is required to work with material
properties of the roller cam. Failure to install the
proper gear will result in engine failure.

Panoz part numbers

GTS2 - 3042 MSD Distributor MSD-85805

GTS2 - 3043 MSD Distributor Steel Gear

(Refer to MSD instructions for proper installation)
IMPROPER INSTALLATION Of GEAR WILL CAUSE
PREMATURE WEAR ON DISTRIBUTOR AND
CAM GEAR.

If you have any questions or require additional
information, please call your local CSR or Panoz
Auto Development.

Oil Line Routing

FOR THE SAFETY OF YOUR ENGINE it is important
to plumb your oil system properly. The diagram below
shows the proper oil line routing. Failure to plumb the
system as described in this document will lead to pre­mature failure of your motor. Improperly plumbed sys­tems will show oil pressure on the gauge, because of
the location of the sensor. Do not let this fool you.

THE ROUTING IS AS FOLLOWS: Oil exits the engine
from from the top port of the oil filler adapter (mounts
to the engine) and goes to the inlet of the filter adapter
(arrows show inlet direction). From the adapter the
line goes to the bottom port of the oil cooler. The line
from the top port of the oil cooler goes to the bottom
port of the engine oil adapter.

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RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Page 39

Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

Quaker State – Recommended fill for the GTS

Driveline

Clutch Slave Free Play Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

Clutch Pedal Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

Quarter Master . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42

Clutch / Bellhousing Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43

Clutch Bleed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45

Transmission Fluid Change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

Differential Fluid Change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

Page 40

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The Power to Reduce Friction

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RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Clutch Pedal Adjustment

The GTS is equipped with a clutch pedal stop, mount­ed in the chassis firewall. This must be properly
adjusted to prevent over stroking and over pressure
on the clutch assembly. The best way to adjust this,
after bleeding the clutch slave circuit, is...

1. Raise the car off the ground.

2. Put the car in gear (DO NOT START THE CAR)

3. Have someone try to turn the driveshaft, while

you stroke the clutch pedal.

4. As soon as the driveshaft is allowed to spin,
adjust the pedal stop to that point.

5. You can add up to 1/8” more if it is difficult to
drive when cold or if you are having engagement
or disengagement issues (the system will feel
better as it is heated up from driving).

Page 41

Clutch Slave Free Play Adjustment

This section is a caution to keep in mind when
installing and adjusting the clutch slave, with the
Quarter Master Clutch Assembly. It applies to you if
you have the Quarter Master Aluminum Clutch and
Flywheel Assembly and/or an external clutch slave.

It is important to the life of your clutch that you install
the clutch slave allowing 1/8” of clutch fork free play
(fore and aft) travel. The adjustment is made at the
clutch fork using the jam nut at the end of the clutch
slave rod. This should relate to slightly less than the

0.100 gap between the pressure plate springs and throw
out bearing that Quarter Master recommends. The up
and down movement is irrelevant. A properly adjusted
clutch will give hours of trouble free performance.

WARNING: THIS IS A CRITICAL ADJUSTMENT.
IF THERE IS NO FORE AND AFT FREE PLAY IN
THE CLUTCH FORK YOU WILL EXPERIENCE
PREMATURE CLUTCH WEAR OR FAILURE AND
POSSIBLE ENGINE WEAR (THIS WARNING
COMES FROM EXPERIENCE)!

One more clutch saving tip...

Pulling your car into the trailer is usually the hardest
part of a race weekend, as far as your clutch goes. If
possible do the following;

• Winch it into the trailer

• Try to maintain slow constant speed while on the
trailer ramp, reducing clutch usage.

• Don’t slip the clutch to control your speed into the
trailer.

Page 42

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Quarter Master Clutch Installation

Please familiarize yourself with the tools and proce­dures discussed in these instructions before beginning
the clutch installation. Please remember that these
instructions are only a guide for the person performing
the repairs and should only taken as a guide. There
are many items which may change during the produc­tion cycle of an automobile that may change the tools
needed or procedures required for this clutch installation.
Quarter Master recommends this installation should
take place at a professional installation/service shop.

Tools needed for installation:

• Safety glasses

• 3/8” and/or 1/2” ratchet

• Socket set, metric and fractional ranging from
10mm-15mm and 3/8”-3/4”

• Combination wrench set, metric and fractional

• Air impact wrench preferably 1/2”

• Floor jack

• Transmission jack (if available)

• 3/8” or 1/2” torque wrench

• Several extensions for the ratchets/impacts

• Rubber mallet or dead blow hammer

• Screwdriver set

• Jack stands with a minimum rating of 2 tons each

• Drop light

• Scotch-brite or hand wire brush

• Lock-tite Blue (optional)

• Mechanic’s creeper or equivalent

• Silicone spray lubricant

• High pressure or extreme pressure grease

• Optional items not included in kit:

• Transmission fluid

• Transmission end plug

• Anti-seize

• Hi-temp automotive grease

This clutch replacement should take approximately 3­4 hours to accomplish, preferably with two people to
move around, and remove/replace the transmission.
We strongly recommend using an impact wrench,
many of the bolts may be stuck and an impact
wrench will help enormously.

If the clutch installation is to be done by a service
shop, please bring this set of instructions prior to
installation, this will eliminate any potential problems
during installation. This clutch is not compatible with
the McCloud internal slave cylinder so we have
included instructions for the installation of an external
slave cylinder.

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Clutch/Bellhousing Removal

ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN REMOVING/
INSTALLING COMPONENTS UNDER THE VEHICLE

There are a couple of ways to remove the transmission.
One is from the underside of the vehicle, the other is to
remove it from inside the passenger compartment.This
procedure describes the latter.

1. Properly lift and support the front and rear of the
car for clearance to all underside components.

2. Disconnect the negative (-) cable from the battery.
The battery can be easily accessed by removing
the right rear wheel

3. Once the vehicle is securely supported, remove
switch panel. Make sure the shifter is in the neu­tral position. Remove two 1/2” bolts from remote
shifter linkage

4. Remove the transmission tunnel.

5. Drain transmission fluid and properly discard the

used fluid.

6. Remove four 1/2” universal joint u-bolt nuts. Slide
driveshaft back out of transmission and put it to
the side.

7. If you have an internal slave cylinder, remove
hydraulic line at the bell housing.

8. If you have an external clutch slave, remove the
jam nuts from the end of the slave, at the clutch
fork.

9. Remove two 5/8” bolts where the transmission
mounts to the cross member.

10. Loosen four 5/8” bolts that hold transmission to bell
housing. Do not remove them as they will hold the
transmission in place so you can brace it. Take the
transmission jack and properly place it under the
transmission and slowly raise the jack to support
the transmission, do not put a lot of pressure on
the transmission, just enough to support it. If you
do not have a transmission jack, then have your
partner get in the passenger side of the car and
slowly remove all four bolts, have you or your part­ner hold up the rear of the trans. When all bolts are
removed, work together to slowly pull the transmis­sion out of the bell housing. Have the person in the
car set the transmission on the floor of the car.

11. Unbolt the starter on the lower right side of the
bell housing (as you are facing the front of the
car underneath). Remove the two 9/16” bolts
holding the starter to the bell housing. Swing the
starter out of the way and support it sufficiently.

12. Remove six 5/8” bolts that hold bell housing to
block, starting from the bottom to the top. If you
are switching from an internal to external clutch­slave, do the follow steps 13-14 otherwise go to
step 15 for internal slave removal.

13. Enlarge hole in the cast tab in front of clutch fork
opening to 7/8” to provide clearance for the slave
cylinder rod.

14. Install adjustable pivot ball to existing threaded
boss inside the bell housing. Set the pivot ball
to 1 9/16” from the TOP of the boss (not the bell
housing surface) to the top of the ball. Any setting
greater than 1 9/16 may cause hard contact
between the clutch fork and the chassis firewall
down tube.

Page 43

19/16"

Page 44

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23. Using an alignment tool (contact Tremec or
Quarter Master for tool) place the six 5/16” bolts
into the holes and lightly tighten them down. In a
motion similar to the installation of the flywheel,
torque the cover bolts to 20 ft-lbs (use blue loc
tite on bolts). Check to make sure that the align
ment tool still moves in and out freely. Re-torque
the bolts to insure proper torque (If the torque is
not applied correctly, or the star pattern is not
used, the clutch may not work properly and the
life and performance will be drastically reduced.)
Remove the alignment tool.

24. Gently place the bell housing onto it’s two align
ment pins and push it until it is flush with the back
of the engine. You may need to use a rubber mal
let to properly seat it flush with the engine
face.Then install the six 1/2” bolts and torque
them to 28-38 ft lbs.

25. Re-install the clutch fork by simply sliding it back
over the ball stud; (make sure both sides of the
fork clip are around the pivot ball back side) it
should slide over with little effort. You will need to
make sure that the throw-out bearing does not
get knocked off of the clutch fork during this pro
cedure.

26. Re-install the transmission on the bell housing be
sure the input shaft engages the clutch. Once the
input shaft of the transmission has engaged the
disc and is flush with the bell housing’s face,
replace the four bolts that hold the transmission
to the bell housing. Simply hand-tighten the bolts,
then torque the bolts to 28 – 38 ft lbs for Tremec
TKO/3550 & 4617 transmissions.

27. Re-install the starter. Tighten bolts to 15-19 ft lbs.

28. Re-install the drive shaft and grease u-joints with

grease gun.

29. Re-install clutch slave actuating rod into clutch
fork. Shim the slave cylinder mounting rod end as
necessary for alignment and clearance between
the rod and the bell housing through hole.

30. Clutch fork should have 1/8” - 1/4” of fore and aft
free play in it (Jam nuts on clutch slave should
not pre-load the clutch).

31. Re-fill transmission fluid (3 quarts).

Internal Clutch Slave:

15. If you have the internal slave cylinder, remove

hydraulic throw out bearing and remove the collar

from the input shaft. If it is stuck on the bearing
housing, you may need to use WD-40 and pry
bar to remove it.

16. Remove six 1/2” bolts that hold the pressure

plate and remove it and the clutch disk.

17. Remove six 19mm 12 point bolts from flywheel.

18. Remove pilot bearing with puller.

Installation:

If you are installing a QuarterMaster aluminum clutch
assembly, confirm that the flywheel counter weight is
bolted to the back of the flywheel using Lock-tite blue
on the supplied bolts (failure to do so can cause
severe damage to engine and transmission).

19. Install new pilot bearing, using a socket of the
same diameter and tap it in with a hammer until
seated.

20. Confirm the engine separator plate/dust shield is
installed. It must be installed before the flywheel.
Make sure it is not bent and that it lays flat
against the block.

21. Re-install the new flywheel onto the crankshaft by
lining up the six holes in the flywheel to the six
holes on the crank. One hole is offset from the
rest of the bolt pattern, so some rotation of the
flywheel may be needed in order to line up all
6 holes. Apply blue (medium strength) loctite
(thread lock) to the flywheel bolts and insert the
bolts through the flywheel into the crankshaft and
lightly tighten them down. Torque the bolts to
60-70 ft lbs, in a star pattern. Confirm that there
is clearance between the flywheel counter weight
bolts and the dust shield (rotate fly wheel).

22. Place the clutch disc with the spring pack (taller
portion) facing rearward, under the cover and
pressure plate, then place the cover over the
clutch disc. Rotate cover until bolt holes line up
with the threaded hole in the flywheel.

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32. Re-install the transmission tunnel.

33. Re-install the two 1/2” bolts to the remote shifter

linkage.

34. Follow external clutch slave installation steps.

35. Set clutch pedal stop as follows

a. With car Raised off the ground

b. Put the car in gear (DO NOT START THE CAR)

c. Have someone try to turn the driveshaft, while

you stoke the clutch pedal.

d. As soon as the drive shaft is allowed to spin,

adjust the pedal stop to that point.

e. You can add up to 1/8” more if it is difficult to

drive when cold or if you are having engagement
or disengagement issues (the system will feel
better as it is heated up from driving).

External Clutch Slave Installation:

1. Install inside bracket on top of existing oil pan

nuts with nyloc nuts.

2. Remove rear motor mount bolt at the back of the
mount.

3. Re-install motor mount bolt with modified outer
bracket in place.

4. If you are converting from an internal slave;
Modify stationary rod by shortening it by approxi­mately 1” (adjust so clutch fork doesn’t hit

firewall). See illustration on page 41

5. Using Teflon tape or liquid install 90° fitting to
slave cylinder.

6. Install bleeder valve.

7. If you are converting from an internal slave;

Replace hydraulic line with one from kit.

8. Install slave cylinder to bracket making sure
bleeder valve is pointing up.

9. Install clutch rod ball behind clutch fork. Install nut
and jamb nut to slider rod.

10. If not already done, remove dzus fasteners and
move dash out of the way.

11. Loosen 1/2” bolt holding master cylinders.

12. Remove two 1/2” nylocs holding clutch master

cylinder.

13. Unscrew push rod from clutch pedal.

14. Remove hydraulic line.

15. Remove master cylinder.

16. Install push rod to clutch pedal.

17. Install 1” master cylinder.

18. Install hydraulic line.

19. Re-adjust clutch stop so that pedal travels no

more than 3.5”.

20. Bleed clutch master cylinder.

21. Set pedal height and tighten jamb nut on push rod.

22. Set clutch pedal stop as follows

f. With car Raised off the ground

g. Put the car in gear (DO NOT START THE CAR)

h. Have someone try to turn the driveshaft, while

you stoke the clutch pedal.

i. As soon as the drive shaft is allowed to spin,

adjust the pedal stop to that point.

j. You can add up to 1/8” more if it is difficult to

drive when cold or if you are having engagement
or disengagement issues (the system will feel
better as it is heated up from driving).

Clutch Bleed

Very Similar to Brake Bleed Process

A. Using a 1/4” wrench, open bleeder valve while

your helper pushes clutch pedal.

B. After fluid is flowing, close valve and have your

helper continue pushing clutch full stroke.

C. Continue until all burnt fluid is removed from sys

tem.

D. After master cylinder is topped off; using a tape

measure, check the amount of travel in clutch fork
(1 1/8” - 1 1/4” is ideal).

E. Clutch fork should have 1/8” - 1/4” of free play in

it (Jam nuts on clutch slave should not pre-load
the clutch).

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Transmission Fluid Change

1. Remove drain plug at the bottom of the transmission.

2. Re-install drain plug.

3. Loosen switch panel and move out of your way.

4. Remove the two 1/2” bolts securing the shifter

remote to the shifter.

5. Remove the transmission tunnel.

6. Remove the fill plug.

7. Fill with 2.5 Quarts of Quaker State Full Synthetic

75W-90 GL-4.

Differential Fluid Change

!. Remove drain plug from the bottom of the differen-

tial and let fluid drain into pan.

2. Re-install drain plug.

3. Disconnect the differential cooler line at the top of

the differential.

4. Pour in three quarts of Quaker State Full Synthetic
GL-5.

5. Re-install cooler line.

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Quaker State – Recommended fill for the GTS

Brake System

Brake Bleed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49

Brake Pedal Assembly & Balance Bar Adjustment . . . . . . . . . .49

Bias Bar Set Up and Technical Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50

Setting Up the Balance Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .50

Brake Pedal Geometry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51

Brembo Brake Disc Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51

Replacing Rotors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52

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The Power to Reduce Friction

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Brake Bleed

A: Set car on jack stands.

B: Remove wheels.

C: Starting with right rear; using 11mm wrench; open

valve while your helper pushes brake pedal. When
fluid starts to flow, close valve. Instruct your helper
to NOT stroke the pedal past 1/2 of the master cylin­der full stroke. When valve is closed your helper
should release pedal and pull pedal up with toe.
The objective is to limit brake pedal travel.

Note: Stroking the pedal past the normal operating
range on a used master cylinder can cause premature
failure of the master cylinder.

D: Continue until burnt fluid is gone.

E: Check master cylinder (top off fluid level).

F: Repeat process on left rear caliper.

G: Top off master cylinder again.

H: Repeat steps on front right and then front left.

I: Front calipers have two bleeder valves. Bleed out-

side valve first, then inside valve.

J: All cars leave the plant with Brembo Brake Fluid. If

you are not using Brembo fluid, be sure to complete­ly flush the system. DO NOT MIX FLUIDS.

K: From driver's seat; far left master cylinder is for the

clutch, middle cylinder is for the rear brakes, and the
far right cylinder is for the front brakes.

Note: Clutch Master cylinder size is 1”, rear master
cylinder size is 1”, front master cylinder is 7/8”

Brake Pedal Assembly & Balance Bar
Adjustment Instructions

This specifically refers to the Panoz GTS with the
Brembo Brake System (Calipers and Rotors). It does
not apply to other brake configurations.

PANOZ GTS BRAKE BALANCE BAR SET UP BY
PERFORMANCE FRICTION CORPORATION. SET-UP
HAS BEEN OPTIMIZED FOR USE WITH PFC 97
COMPOUND PADS THROUGH EXTENSIVE TESTING.

Page 49

1. Rear master cylinder pushrod length should
be 1/4" shorter than the front master cylinder
pushrod.

2. Rear master cylinder 1.0” (25.4mm)

3. Clevis air gap .125” (3.0mm) total

4. Brake pedal height 11.25” (286mm) measured

from the apex between the floor and the footwell
panels.

5. Center balance bar bearing position in brake pedal
tube at rest, when using PFC 97 compound pads
on current disc brand, +1.25 turns (5 clicks) of
front brake.

6. Bleed front and rear circuits at the same time.

If you have a brake bias gauge set, here is a good
setting to start with:

• Push the brake pedal to achieve 600 psi on the front

circuit.

• The rear should read 400 psi.

• Each click of the bias control should give you

approximately 20 psi change.

Make adjustments at the track for track
conditions,weight distribution, and weather conditions.

1/4"

Brake Bias Cable

Clevis

Clevis

Pivot

Front Master Cylinder

Rear Master Cylinder

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Bias Bar Set-up and Technical Notes

The function of a bias bar is to allow the adjustment
of brake line pressure distribution between two mas­ter cylinders. This is accomplished through moving
the bias bar pivot towards one master cylinder
pushrod or the other. If the pivot is perfectly centered
between the pushrods, the force applied to each mas­ter cylinder will be equal. This is known as the “neu­tral position” of the bias adjuster. If the pivot is moved
closer to one pushrod or the other then the master
cylinders will receive different pressures (proportional
to the distance between the bias bar pivot point and
the master cylinder center lines). This adjustment
gives the driver control over the braking characteris­tics of the car, and to alter those characteristics to
account for changes in fuel load, track conditions and
handling characteristics of the car.

Setting Up the Balance Bar

The balance bar is one of the most overlooked, and
least understood components on almost any race car.
As with all aspects of race car assembly and prepara­tion, careful attention to geometry of the balance bar
and brake pedal will yield great benefits. To start, we
need to look at the proper installation of the bias bar
adjuster.

First, we must insure that the bias bar pivot bearing is
free to move within the pedal tube. Often this tube
becomes distorted during installation. If this is the
case, then the tube may be honed, until the bearing
slides smoothly from one end of the tube to the other.
The tube must be clean and may be lubricated with a
light oil or dry Teflon spray.

Next we need to know the distance between the cen­terlines of the front and rear master cylinders.
Typically, this is 2.5 inches, though this is not critical.
What is critical is that this dimension, whatever it may
be, is duplicated in the center-to center distance of
the clevises threaded onto the bias bar adjuster rod.
This insures that the master cylinder pushrods are
actuated properly, minimizing any side loads applied
the master cylinder piston and bore.

With the clevises set on the adjuster, measure the
distance between them and the bias tube itself. If the
clearance between each clevis and the bias tube is
more than 1.5mm. then shims must be added until
the proper airgap is achieved. This prevents the bias
bar from shifting while on the track and altering, in an
unpredictable manner, the brake bias of the car. With
the bias bar connected to the master cylinders, and
the brake lines connected, the brakes should be bled.
It is ideal that front and rear brake circuits be bled
simultaneously. This will allow both master cylinders
to use their full travel and prevent binding the bias
adjuster.

With the pedal tube and clevises squared away we
now look at the master cylinder push rod length. The
key is to set up the bias adjuster so that it is perpen­dicular to the master cylinder centerlines with the
brake pedal under compression. Typically, this means
that the front master cylinder push rod will be 3mm­5mm longer than the rear master cylinder push rod at
rest. This is due to the fact that the front braking cir­cuit has a larger fluid volume due the larger piston
diameters in the front calipers. As a result, the front
master cylinder requires a higher feed rate than does
the rear. If push rod length is equal front and rear
then the feed rate of the rear master cylinder is too
high relative to the front. The result in this case is the
rear circuit “hitting “ before the front. With the push
rod lengths adjusted properly the bias bar will square
under compression and the front and rear circuits will
“hit” approximately at the same time.

There is more brake bleeding information at the
beginning of this section.

Brake Pedal Geometry

With the bias bar geometry correct we now turn our
attention to the brake pedal geometry. In order for the
brake system to work properly, it is important that the
brake pedal get hard before it crosses the vertical
plane of the brake pedal pivot. If the brake pedal
crosses the vertical plane of the pedal pivot (goes
“over center”) the mechanical advantage of the pedal
over the push rods will be lost causing a loss of pedal
feel and braking force. This can be adjusted with a
separate pedal height adjuster (if available) or by
lengthening both master cylinder push rods the same
amount, until the desired pedal height is achieved. As
a result, the throttle pedal may need to be adjusted to
restore the proper “heel and toe” pedal relation ship.
If there is sufficient adjustment available this can be
accomplished through attaching a simple spacer to
the throttle pedal.

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Brembo Brake Disc Assembly

Insure that all the parts that are to be re-used are in
good condition. This includes the Brembo supplied
bushings, their hardware and Brembo supplied hats.

1. Brembo rotors are directional, the curved cooling
slots rotate clockwise to draw hot air out of the
rotor. With this in mind, GENTLY place the appro­priate Brembo disc in a soft jawed vice, with the
flange side facing outward (this can be done with­out holding the disc in a vice, but it’s very difficult).
Assemble two or three Brembo bushings to the
Brembo front hat and disc, using the supplied AN
washer under the head of the fastener. Brembo
strongly recommends that that you use a dab of
nickel based high temperature anti-seize com­pound on the threads of each fastener. This will
make disassembly easier.

2. Next, continue assembling the remaining bobbins
to the hat and disc, using the nickel anti-seize and
Brembo supplied AN washers. Be sure the bush­ings are properly seated. The flat side of the bush­ing aligns with the ridge on the hat. With all 10
bushing fasteners assembled to the the hat and
disc, it is time to torque the assembly. TORQUE
EACH FASTENER TO 60 INCH POUNDS (5 foot
puonds) USING A STAR PATTERN. After torquing
the bushings check that the rotor still floats (there
should be a small amount of play between the hat
and the disc.

Page 51

90°

Bobbin (Bushing)

Washer

Screw

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Welcome

Replacing Rotors

Brake rotors will crack; small cracks are normal. However any cracks that travel all the way to the edges should be
noted. Cracks that you can run you fingernail over and feel may need to be replaced. Cracks that wrap over the top of
the rotor and into the cooling fins indicate the need for immediate replacement. Please refer to the torque specifications
on page 10 when replacing rotors.

Cracks that wrap
over top of rotor
indicate need for
replacement

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Quaker State – Recommended fill for the GTS

Body Section

Body Panel Care Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55

Fastener Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55

Replacing Body Panels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55

Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56

Paint Procedure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56

Surface Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56

HVLP Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56

Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56

Effects of Chemicals, Cleaners and Silicone Adhesives . . . . . .57

Compatibilities of Tapes and Weatherstrips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58

Chemical Resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58

Effects of Cleaners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .58

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Body Panel Care Guide

This section will give you information and tips for car­ing for your Panoz GTS body panels. It includes fas­tening information, approved cleaning products,
chemical resistance, and effects of vinyl and tapes.

The Panoz GTS body panels are formed from a co­extruded ABS Plastic. The lower layer of material is
ABS (Centrex®) and the upper layer is Lexan®. We
choose this material for it’s

• Toughness and durability

• Resistance to weather aging

• Good chemical resistance

• Good processability

The panels can be used in white as they are pro­duced or painted. The painting procedure is listed in a
later section of this manual. All of the body panel and
related attachments are fastened using a nut and bolt
assembly. This is done for a specific reason. The
careless use of rivets will reduce the life of your
panel. We do not recommend using rivets to fasten
panels to each other or to mounting brackets. The
expansion of the rivet body will put excessive pres­sure on the through hole of the rivet. This excess
pressure will cause the panel to split, from the radius
of the hole. If you are forced to repair the assembly
with rivets, be sure to use the suggestions below.

Find a washer that has a smaller hole than the hole in
the body panel. Use the rivet on both the top and bot­tom of the panel joint or mounting location. The rivet
must expand against the inside radius of the washer
and NOT the plastic body panel.

Fastener Inspection

It is recommended that you inspect all of the body
fasteners between each track event. Because of the
nature of the plastic panels it is possible for the joints
to become loose due to vibration and unfortunate car
to car contact. Using an allen wrench and a 3/8”
wrench, go round the vehicle and check the tightness
of each fastener. Lightly torque each fastener to a
snug condition. The locking will hold the assembly.
DO NOT OVER TORQUE THE FASTENER.

Replacing Body Panels

Body panels can be ordered trimmed or untrimmed.
Even if you order trimmed panels, there could be
some slight modifications needed to make the panels
fit properly. If you order untrimmed panels, you will
receive them marked with trim lines. A 90° grinder
with roloc discs and a body saw are the basic tools
needed to trim panels. Each car is a little different so
final touches will most likely need to be done by car
owner to ensure perfect body fit. DO NOT over tight­en body screws (make them snug) Over tightening
can cause bolt heads to pull through the plastic body
panels or crack the body panels.

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Repair

The ABS panels can be repaired. If you get a small
crack in your panel, we recommend drilling a small
hole at the end of the crack. Be sure to find the end
of the crack. Drilling the end of the crack will stop it
from getting any bigger. The Quick and dirty fix for
race rash…

If you get a large crack in your panel, a quick fix is to;

1. Drill the end of the crack.

2. Drill small holes down each side the crack, across

from each other.

3. Use zip ties and stitch the crack

There are plastic welding kits that can be purchased.
They use a combination of compressed air, heat and
come with ABS welding rod.

Paint Procedure

Surface preparation

A: Clean the entire body with D846 degreasing agent

for plastics, while constantly turning and changing
clean lint free towels.

B: Scuff with #M 07447 Red Scotch Brite.

C: Air blow entire substrate thoroughly using a clean

air supply.

D: Clean the entire body with D846 degreasing agent

for plastics, while constantly turning and changing
clean lint free towels.

E: Tack off entire panel.

F: Apply D820 Plastic Adhesion Promoter in one thin

coat. Apply with uniform coverage.

1.3-1.5mm

0.5-0.7/7-10 PSI
4 bar/55 PSI
1x

G: RTS (ready to spray)

H: Let air dry to 30 minutes

I: 30min @ 20°C (68°F) no more than 24 hours.

J:Tack off all panels

K: Mix 4 : 1 : 2

DG : D884 : D870 <18°C/65°F

D887 : D871 18-25°C/65°-77°F

D872 >25°C/77°F
D873 >35°C/95°F

L: Pot life is 1-3 hours @20°C/68°F

M: Apply DG DirectGloss Color.2 normal coats

1.4-1.6 mm

0.7 bar/10PSI
3-4 bar/45-55PSI
2x

N: Flash off - allow 5-10 minutes between coats

@20° C/68°F

O: Dry - allow to dry minimum 50-70 minutes

@20°C/68°F

P: Air dry <20hours @20°C/68°F

Q: Force dry 30 minutes @60°C/140°F

HVLP Equipment

High volume low pressure (HVLP) uses higher vol­ume of air at low pressures to atomize high solid low
VOC coatings. By reducing the atomizing pressure
“overspray” and “bounce back” are minimized. This
will result in savings for coatings material and booth
filters.

IMPORTANT: The above solvents and paint compo­nents contain materials that may be hazardous to
your health. Read and be sure that you understand
the warning messages on the labels of all components.

Follow instructions for positive airline respirator use.
Wear eye and skin protection. Observe all applicable
precautions.

See Material Safety Data Sheet and labels
for additional safety information and handling
instructions.

Cleaning

The plastic material has good resistance to most
chemicals and cleaners. It is not resistant to all chem­icals. Below is a list of common known safe chemicals
and cleaners. Please refer to the charts at the end of
this section for anything beyond that list.

CLEANERS: Windex, Fantastic, 409, Simple Green

CHEMICALS: WD-40, 30W Motor Oil, Mineral Spirits

Gun Oil, Silicone Sealer/RTV (non-acid cured)

AVOID CONTACT OR USE OF THE FOLLOWING
PRODUCTS: Citrus cleaning products, gasoline.

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Page 57

EFFECT OF CHEMICALS FOUND IN SHOPS ON BAYER PLASTICS MATERIALS

NO ATTACK EXPECTED MINIMUM ATTACK MODERATE ATTACK SEVERE ATTACK

GENERALLY USEABLE USEABLE ONLY WITH NOT RECOMMENDED

NO STAIN ON PLASTIC

AGENT: CENTREX

AJAX Expert Cleaner/Degreaser
BEAVER Terp-A-Klean Citrus Cleaner
FANTASTIC
FORD TAR & GREASE REMOVER
FORD ULTRACLEAR Window Wash Con ––––
FORMULA 409
Krazy clean All Purpose Cleaner
MINERAL SPIRITS
OLD TYME Lemon Oil

PPG-DX 330 Acrylic-Clean

(wax/grease remover)
PVC Foam Weatherstripping

Super UNLEADED GASOLINE
WD 40
3M SHARPSHOOTER Extra Strength
30 W MOTOR OIL
303 PROTECTANT

EFFECT OF CLEANERS ON BAYER PLASTICS MATERIALS

CLEANER: CENTREX
TEK 701 GLASS CLEANER
TEK 811 GRAFFITI REMOVER
TEK 969 BUG CLEANER

TERP-A-CLEAN DEGREASER
(Beaver Research)

TURPENTINE ––––
WINDEX GLASS CLEANER
ZEP FORMULA 50, diluted 1:4 w/water
ZEP FORMULA 50, undiluted
3M CITRUS BASE NATURAL
3M DESK 7 OFFICE CLEANER
3M SHARPSHOOTER Extra Strength
303 PROTECTANT

EFFECT OF SILICONE ADHESIVES AND SEALANTS ON BAYER PLASTICS

MATERIAL: CENTREX
5007 PLAS, SILICONES UNL
COLORIMETRIC (acetic acid cure)

+

COLORIMETRIC MS 101
DOW 700

+

ECLECTIC PRODUCTS’ E-6100
FLEXIPRENE 1000, POLYMERIC SYS.
FULAPRENE 303

+

GE 1000 RTV SILICONE,

Acetic Acid Cure

+

GE 2800 RTV SILICONE, Neutral Cure
GE SILICONE II
GE SILPRUF 2000 SERIES SILICONE
PSI-631 RTV SILICONE, Moisture Cured
SILICONE 5007, SILICONES UNL
SIR-O-SIL 50, Neutral Cure

* 3-5 mil film laminated on ABS
**1 FOR CENTREX 401/833, 2 FOR CENTREX 825

+

In general, acid cured RTV silicones do not attack the plastic if applied in a thin layer. If uncured silicone is trapped between two sheets of plastic, however, it will attack the plastic. Acid cured silicones smell like vinegar

NOTES: Do not use cleaners containing citrus oil. Dilute all cleaners according to directions.

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COMPATIBILITY OF TAPES AND WEATHERSTRIPS ON BAYER PLASTICS

NO ATTACK EXPECTED MINIMUM ATTACK MODERATE ATTACK SEVERE ATTACK

GENERALLY USEABLE USEABLE ONLY WITH NOT RECOMMENDED

NO STAIN ON PLASTIC

MATERIAL: CENTREX

Aliphatic TPU w/acrylic PSA, Patco Corp.
Bowman Anti-seize Compound
Colorimetric Tape # 873304
EPDM Foam/Tape
IPS Weld-On ABS 2773 ––––
Plasticized PVC Foam/Tape
Polyken Duct Tape
Polyolefin Foam/Tape
Polyurethane Foam/Tape
Scotch Brand 898 Reinforced Tape
Surebond SB-430 Quick Tack Tape
Thermoplastic Rubber Tape
Velcro Brand Tape
Vinyl Cloth Tape ––––
3M VHB 4932
3M VHB 4941
3M VHB 4952

3M 05407-10828 Electrical Vinyl
(white or black)**

CHEMICAL RESISTANCE TO AUTOMOTIVE CHEMICALS

CHEMICAL: CENTREX
Unleaded Gasoline 1-2
Diesel Fuel 1
Wheel Bearing Grease 1
Brake Fluid 4
WD-40 1
Mopar Anti-Freeze (undiluted) 1
Transmission Fluid 1
Mineral Spirits 1
Tar & Grease Remover 1-2
10W30 Motor Oil 1

**1 FOR CENTREX 401, 2 FOR CENTREX 833, 3 FOR CENTREX 825

NOTE: In general, PVC materials attack the plastic. DO NOT USE.

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Page 59

EFFECT OF CLEANERS ON BAYER PLASTIC MATERIALS

NO ATTACK EXPECTED MINIMUM ATTACK MODERATE ATTACK SEVERE ATTACK

GENERALLY USEABLE USEABLE ONLY WITH NOT RECOMMENDED

NO STAIN ON PLASTIC

25% ISOPROPANOL/WATER
30% ACETONE/WATER
AJAX Expert Degreaser/Cleaner (Colgate)
AMMONIA DILUTED 1:3 WITH WATER
ARMORALL CLEANER
ARMORALL PROTECTANT
BATHMATE NO ACID WASHROOM ––––
BEAVER Terp-A-Klean Citrus Cleaner
BIO T CITRUS OIL
BIO T MAX CITRUS OIL
Butyl Cellosolve
CLOROX CLEANUP
DO-IT-ALL
DRI-WASH N GUARD
FANTASTIC
FORD TAR & GREASE REMOVER
FORD ULTRACLEAR WINDOW WASH CON.

-––––
FORMULA 409
GOO GONE CITRUS CLEANER
HYDROWASH A 300 DYCHEM INT’L.
KRAZY CLEAN ALL PURPOSE
LOOK GLASS (conc) (Butcher)
LYSOL BATH & TILE
MICROCLENE
MURPHY HOUSE. OIL SOAP (DILUTED)
MURIATIC ACID 31.5% HCL**
OASIS 255 GLASS CLEANER
OASIS 266 ALL PURPOSE
OASIS 277 AIR FRESHENER
OASIS 499 GERMICIDE
OLD TYME LEMON OIL
PPG DX-330 ACRYLIC CLEAN (Wax Remov.)
PAINT THINNER ––––
PLEXUS PLASTIC CLEANER
PURPLE RAGE
RM-900 PRE-KLEAN
SIKA 205 CLEANER
SIMPLE GREEN, DILUTED
SPEEDBALL HD SPRAY ––––
SPEEDBALL POWER CLEANER
TEK 102 ALL PURPOSE
TEK 145 LIQUID WASH 7 WAX
TEK 404 GENERAL PURPOSE
TEK 408 CREAM CLEANER
TEK 411 CONC. VEHICLE CLEANER
TEK 412 HARD CARMABU WAX
TEK 456 CLEAN 7 SHINE
TEK 555 TIRE GLOW
TEK 633 GLASS CLEANER
TEK 701 GLASS CLEANER
TEK 811 GRAFFITI REMOVER
TEK 969 BUG CLEANER
TERP-A-CLEAN DEGREASER (Beaver Re)
TURPENTINE ---­WINDEX GLASS CLEANER
ZEP FORMULA 50, DILUTED 1:4
ZEP FORMULA 50, UNDILUTED
3M CITRUS BASE NATURAL
3M DESK 7 OFFICE CLEANER
3M SHARPSHOOTER X-STRENGTH
303 PROTECTANT

**1 FOR CENTREX 401/833, 2 FOR CENTREX 845

NOTE: Do not use cleaners containing citrus oil. Dilute all cleaners according to directions.

Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

Quaker State – Recommended fill for the GTS

Suspension

Ride Height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61

Shock Settings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61

Square Rear End Housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61

Brake Bias . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61

Sway Bar Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62

Controlling Under Stress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63

Going into a Corner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63

Exiting a Corner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64

Alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64

Shocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65

Sway Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65

A Guide to Damper Tuning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65

General Track Tuning Tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66

Pirelli Tire Care and Feeding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67

Mounting Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67

Tire Pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67

Warm up Suggestions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67

Alignment Settings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67

Page 60

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RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

The Power to Reduce Friction

Panoz Esperante GTS

Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Introduction

The information in this section will help you with the
suspension set of your car. Each driver will have a
unique setting for his or her driving style and track
conditions. The settings presented in this manual are
primarily the setup as the car leaves the factory. You
should confirm this baseline before going to the track.
Knowing exactly how your car is before an event will
help you make the proper changes to improve the
feel of the car and your lap times.

Basic GTS Set-Up

Ride Height

• 3 1/2” in front (from bottom of chassis to ground)
at front axle center line.

• 4” in rear (from bottom of chassis to ground) at
rear axle center line.

Shock Settings

The shocks are sealed units and do not allow
changes to the compression of the shock.The only
adjustments with the shocks are rebound, and with
the spring ride height.

• Shock rebound settings start from a full firm setting.

• The rebound adjuster window is labeled with a plus
(+) and a minus sign (-).

• Turning the adjuster to the plus (+) direction makes
the rebound more firm (slower).

• Turning the adjuster to the minus (-) direction makes
the rebound softer (faster).

To set shock rebounds use a small punch, turn dialall
the way +, then back off 6 holes (sweeps/clicks). This
is a neutral setting to get started with.

Pinion Angle

Pinion angle measurement is an important part of get­ting tracking and controlling driveline vibration.Having
too much or too little pinion angle will lead to a drive­line vibration. Obtaining more pinion angel can help

improve traction, as the pinion will tend to rise during
acceleration. Pinion angle must be set in the range of
3°-5°. Any less or any more may result in a vibration.
You set pinion angle using the 4-link bars and a
angle/degree gauge.

• First check angle on drive shaft, then check angle
on differential housing (ref. figure 1).

• Add the absolute value of the two numbers together
(i.e. Driveshaft angle = -2° & Pinion angle =

1.5° [ 2 + 1.5 = 3.5°] and adjust until it is in the
range of 3°-5°.

Note: Pinion angle can be obtained by placing a
90° square against the front face of the yoke housing.
(ref. figure 1)

Brake Bias

This is a base line for setting the brake bias, it is only
a safe baseline. This should be adjusted to driving
style, track and weather conditions. The brake bias
control know adjusts the amount of pressure that is
applied to the front and rear brake circuits during a
brake application. Turning the control knob clockwise
increases pressure the rear and counter clockwise
increases pressure to the front. The initial brake bias
setting is a follows; while pressing brake pedal, front
gauge should read at 600 PSI and the rear should
read 400 PSI. Always make sure brake bias cable is
not in a bind when making adjustments. Turning the
brake bias control to full front or full rear can cause
the mechanism to get in a bind. To correct this, turn
the control in the opposite direction while reaching
behind the dash panel to free up the bound mechanism.
If your car is not equipped with bias gauges, turn
the bias knob until full front is achieved (turn counter­clockwise), then turn clockwise 10-12 turns, then test
on track and adjust accordingly.

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RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Square Rear-end Housing

Rear-end housing should be 14”-14 1/4” from chassis
to housing. Place string over axle housing at 4-link
clamp, then measure both sides. Adjust using 4-link
bars. (see illustation below.)

Sway Bar Adjustments

The sway bars are an important part in controlling
weight distribution and traction. In order for the sway
bar to work properly it must be neutralized. If it is
not neutralized there can be an adverse transfer
of weight, loading and unloading the wheels, in a
cornering situation.

Front

A: Front sway bar has two adjustments.

B: It is best to have the driver in the car for this

adjustment.

C: Remove bolts from both sides of the sway bar.

D: With driver in the car, lengthen/shorten heim

until bolts slide into sway bar holes easily.

E: Front hole (front of car) is soft;

rear hole (closest to firewall) is stiff.

Rear

A: Rear sway bar has three settings.

B: The hole to the rear of the car is full stiff.

C: The middle hole is medium.

D: The front hole is full soft.

E: This adjustment is also best done with the

driver in the car

F: If your driver is not available try to find someone

about the same weight, or if nobody is available,
you can make all of your settings in a neutral
manner.

Panoz Esperante GTS

Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Suspension Tips

Controlling Under Steer

This section is related to the correction of understeer.
At this stage the scope of this document cannot cover
all possible scenarios to correcting understeer condi­tions. The Panoz GTS is usually released from the
factory with conservative alignment settings. These
settings usually tend to create an understeer condition.
The Design of the car is not such that it inherently
has an understeer problem. There is more than enough
adjustment possibilities to get the car to handle any
way that you like.

There are a lot of things to consider when adjusting the
handling characteristics of a car. One of the biggest
things to consider when adjusting for understeer and
oversteer is weight transfer and it’s effect on the tire
contact patch.

When talking about understeer, the first question we
have to ask is “Does the car understeer going into the
corner or coming out?

Going into a corner

If the car exhibits understeer going into corner (poor
turn in), that can be related to 2 things; weight transfer
and bump steer (assuming that tire pressures are
correct and that the tires are not overly worn and
have not been heat cycled too many times). More
times than not it is related to bump steer.

Bump steer is refers to the amount of toe change that
occurs as the wheel travels through the suspension
limits. By nature the GTS tends to toe in during heavy
brake (suspension compression). For that reason we
specify an alignment setting of toe out (ranging from
1/16” to 1/8”). This can be adjusted out by going
through a bump steer exercise and slightly modifying
the geometry of the front suspension. If you have not
performed that exercise adding a little more toe out
will help you during turn in.

Weight transfer can be adjusted by driving style and
by shock adjustment. Braking deep into a corner and
turning while you have maximum weight on the front
tire can help corner entrance understeer condition.
The other option is to soften the rebound setting of
the rear shock.

The Penske shocks have rebound adjusters. The
adjustment is from soft (-) to firm (+). Note: before
making any adjustments to the shocks, record where
they currently are. All adjustments from Panoz Auto
Development are referenced from a full firm setting.

By softening the rebound on the rear shock, you allow
the rear of the car to raise, which in turn applies more
weight to the front tires which can help you turn in
and rotate the car.

Weight transfer can also be controlled by adjusting
the rake in the car. Rake is the ride height difference
from one end to the other. You need to know where
you are at prior to making any adjustments.

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RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Exiting a corner

This is the area that starts at or just before the apex
of the corner. It is usually the same point where you
are starting to apply power. Again weight transfer is
the key to applying power and maintaining grip while
steering comfortably through the corner. In this situa­tion wheel camber, shock and sway bar setting play a
critical roll in controlling the weight transfer of the car
(again we are assuming that the tire pressures are
correct, and that the tires are not overly worn and
have not been heat cycled too many times). The
understeer condition exists because there is not
enough grip from the front tires to change the direc­tion of the car.

Front rebound adjustment is the easiest and most
subtle. You will be surprised in the gains that can be
made by adjusting the rebound just one or two clicks.
If you adjust the front rebound to a more firm setting
you will slow down the weight transfer of the car,
thereby allowing the fronts tires to have a better con­tact patch with the track.

Sway bar settings will also yield high gains in control­ling understeer. (IT IS IMPORTANT TO NOTE THAT
THE SWAY BARS, BOTH FRONT AND REAR, NEED
TO BE NEUTRALIZED BEFORE BEING ABLE TO
MAKE ANY PROPER HANDLING ADJUSTMENTS
NOTES BELOW). Adjusting the rear sway bar to a
stiffer setting will help if not eliminate any exiting
understeer condition. If adjusting the rear sway bar
makes the car too loose, don't jump to the conclusion
that you went the wrong way and move it back right
away. Consider adjusting the front sway bar to a
stiffer setting to put a little push back into the car.

Proper camber is important to controlling understeer
conditions. Too much or not enough camber affects
your contact patch.

The key is to find the proper balance of all these
adjustments to match your driving style, track and
weather conditions. Like anything else in life there are
usually sacrifices that have to be made. You should
always adjust your suspension for the most critical
corner on the track. Usually, this is the one that leads
onto the longest straight away, or the one that carries
the most speed. Understand that some tracks will not
let you have optimum handling everywhere.

Obtaining tire temperature and pressure information
after each session is the key to making proper adjust­ments to the car. Tire temperature will tell you if you
have too much or not enough camber, if the car is out
of balance or if there is too much or too little pres­sure. Be careful to not adjust the car back to your
driving style and speed. In other words, having the
same front tire temp inside middle and out is a pretty
thing, but it doesn't mean that it is fast.

Through weight transfer and balance you can maxi­mize the contact patch of all the tires for the related
track condition.

Alignment

Alignment settings vary from track to track and tire to
tire. Switching tire brands at the track is not recom­mended. Any time that you change tire brands, you
will have to start from ground zero related to the
alignment and overall setup of the car.

Panoz Esperante GTS

Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Shocks

If your shocks have too many hours on them and they
are worn out, you will never be able to adjust your car
to run fast. Typically the shocks are good for about 40
hours of track time. That might not seem like a lot
until you add in the number of hours that you car
rides in or on a trailer. When your car bounces down
the highway in the trailer it adds wear and tear on the
shocks. Shocks don't necessarily have to be leaking
to tell you that they are worn out. The only way to tell
is to have them tested on a dyno. Usually, you will
know when they are worn as you will be feeling weird
handling characteristics that don't make sense.

Sway bars

Sway bars do more than just control the sway or later
weight transfer of the car. They also apply opposing
forces to the inside wheel during a turn.

Neutralize the sway bars by disconnecting one side
(break the adjusting jam nut loose first). Then adjust
the link so that the bolt slides easily through the
adjusting heim and the sway bar arm. The optimum
situation is to neutralize them with the driver and his
gear in the car.

If your sway bar is not in the neutral zone before
adding dynamics to the cars attitude, you may drive
through that neutral zone in a corner, making the
car handle more poorly in one direction opposed to
the other.

Stiffness plays a big part in controlling understeer and
oversteer. It also plays a big part in how much force you
can transfer to the inside tire, in a cornering situation.

If you have any questions about the information pre­sented in this document, please contact Joel Grewett
at Panoz Auto Development [888.467-2660 or
[e-mail]].

A Guide To Damper Tuning

The ultimate purpose of a shock is to work together
with the spring to keep the tire on the track. In com­pression(bump) to help control the movement of the
wheel and in rebound to help absorb the stored ener­gy of the compressed spring. Breaking down the shaft
speeds to chassis movement can be done from the
data taken from on board acquisition and/or actual
test sessions. Where we find the biggest advantages
with low speed adjusters is looking at the chassis in
the plane of the four wheels in relation to the chassis
movement in roll and pitch and how quickly weight is
transferred to each corner in order to load the tire
sooner or later, depending on track conditions.

Usually in rain or low grip situations, allowing more
bleed or less low speed damping is desirable to delay
tire loading upon initial roll. In dry high grip conditions,
adding damping or restricting bleed will load the tire
sooner upon initial roll increasing platform stability.In
pitch situations on smooth surfaces under braking,
increasing low speed damping or restricting bleed will
help load the tires for entry or mid corner. If the tire
begins bouncing under braking usually an increase in
high speed compression will calm this down. Since
the GTS does not have adjustable compression set­tings this is telling you it is time to have the shocks
rebuilt.

We recommend that you have all 4 shocks rebuilt at
the same time. Otherwise you will continue to chase
handling problems at you next track session(s).

If the chassis feels like it is moving around too much
between the plane of the wheels, increasing low
speed damping or restricting bleed, will overall, firm
up the chassis and give it a crisp feel or a better
sense of feel in the car. A car with too much low
speed damping will usually lack grip in change of
directions, cannot put power down in slower corners
(wheel spin) and lack overall grip after initial turn in. If
traction is a problem coming off corners, reducing low
speed damping or more bleed will help weight transfer
at the rear thus increasing traction.

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Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Rebound adjustments are usually indicated by the
driver asking for more stability. By increasing low
speed damping, stability will be enhanced; decreasing
damping will allow more movement in the car, but will
result in a little better tire wear. Also, the amount of
rebound can have a great influence on weight trans­fer. Less front rebound allows weight transfer to the
rear under acceleration. Less rebound in the rear
allows for a greater amount of weight transfer to the
front under braking and turn in. When a car is over
damped in rebound it can pack down in a series of
bumps and a driver will recognize this as too stiff and
usually will think it is compression damping. Too much
rebound can cause lack of grip on cornering. When
making a spring change, keep in mind where the
rebound adjuster is and do you have enough range to
compensate. Sometimes a spring change will bring a
better balance to the damping values after the spring
change. If the spring/shock combination was balanced,
the rule of thumb is a stiffer spring requires lower
compression and higher rebound. A softer spring
requires higher compression and lower rebound.

General Track Tuning Tips

Bump in Front Usually Effects:

• Middle

• Entry

Rebound in Rear Usually Effects:

• Middle

• Entry

Rebound in Front Usually Effects:

• Middle

• Exit

Bump in Rear Usually Effects:

• Middle

• Exit

Push Off Exit of Corners

• Increase (firmer) Rebound Front

Loose Off Exit of Corners

• Decrease (softer) Rebound Front

Push in Middle of Corners

• Decrease Rebound (inside wheel)

• Increase Rebound (outside wheel)

Loose in Middle of Corners

• Decrease Rebound (outside front wheel)

• Decrease Rebound (inside rear wheel)

Push on Entry to Corners

• Increase Rebound Rear

Loose on Entry to Corners

• Decrease Rebound Rear

Keep in mind that your sway bars are a big factor in
the adjustments listed above. Typically, if you cannot
adjust the corner performance with rebound settings
then you should consider a sway bar change.

Panoz Esperante GTS

Panoz Esperante GTSPanoz Esperante GTS

RVP – Reliability / Value / Performance

Pirelli Tire Care and Feeding

The Pirelli P-Zero slicks are considerably different
than the Michelin slick or Hoosier race tire. The side
wall is much stiffer. It is possible to spin the tire on the
rim. The instructions below will help you eliminate this
rotation. The rotation is somewhat normal. The only
thing that this will affect is the balance of the wheel, if
it spins too far. The tires have the capability of coming
back should you cook them during a session. With
one or two laps driving slightly off pace, the tires will
return the performance that you lost. The outside of
the tire has a “D3 arrow” label. Pirelli race tires have
compound ratings from D1 to D5. The directional
arrow is ignored in our application. Pirelli says the
tires can be rotated to any corner of the car to
increase tire life and maintain performance. Rule of
thumb says that you shouldn’t put right side radial
tires on the left side of the car. This is related to the
possibility of breaking tire construction belts. We are
not challenging this theory. We have tested right side
tires on the left side of the car and had no problems.
We are not giving any guarantees that you will have
the same experience. Use your own discretion.

Mounting Instructions

• Tires should be mounted to the rim dry, if possible. If
you use a mounting lubricant DO NOT use lubricants
that are not designed to get tacky.

• Mount the tires with all the bar codes to the inside
of the wheel. Ignore the directional arrows on the
outside of the tire. They will look wrong on one side
of the car.

• Mark your valve stem location on the tire, for rim to
tire rotation reference.

Tire Pressures

• Hot tire pressures should be approximately 31psi
hot, all four corners. To get there cold pressures
should be set (on an 80° ambient day) 23psi front
and 21psi rear. Your driving style and preferences
will dictate future settings.

Warm Up Suggestions

Warming up Perellis should be done in a straight
line, during acceleration and deceleration. Use grad­ual applications of both acceleration and deceleration
until you have generated some heat in the tires (be
sure you have enough track space). Dumping the
clutch out of the pits with cold tires will rotate the rear
rims, excessive braking will rotate the front rims.
Once the tires have heat in them, slight weaving can
be done. We avoid weaving, when the tires are cold,
so that we don’t break the tire bead from the rim. Stay
off the rumble strips (alligators) in the corners until tire
temps are up.

Alignment Settings

We can only give you general information to get you
started. Typically the Pirelli tire requires 1.5° more
camber on the outside tire and 1° more on the inside
tire (inside and outside reference related to track
direction). We have made no changes to caster and
toe settings.

Page 67