The following manual is only a guide to assist you and is not a complete or comprehensive manual of all aspects of
####
maintaining and repairing your bicycle. The bicycle you have purchased is a complex object. We recommend that you
consult a bicycle specialist if you have doubts or concerns as to your experience or ability to properly assemble, repair, or
maintain your bicycle. You will save time and the inconvenience of having to go back to the store if you choose to write or
call us concerning missing parts, service questions, operating advice, and/or assembly questions.
SERVICE
CALL TOLL FREE 1.800.626.2811
Monday - Friday 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Central Time
Serial Number Location
Bike Shown Upside Down
PACIFICCYCLE
4902 Hammersley Road
Madison, WI 53711
Customer Service 1.800.626.2811
www.pacific-cycle.com
Serial Number
Page 5
Page 6
Page 7
PART 1
Parts Identification ...................................................... 02-05
?
PART 2
PART 3
PART 4
PART 5
PART 6
PART 7
Before You Ride ........................................................... 06-21
Mountain Bicycles . Mountain bicycles are designed to give maximum comfort over a wide variety of road surfaces. The
wider handlebars and convenient shift lever position make them very easy to control. Wider rims and tires give them a softer
ride with more traction on rough surfaces. The frame and fork on mountain style bicycles are generally much sturdier than those on
racing style bicycles.
Shift Lever
Top Tube
Seat
Seat Post
Quick Release
Seat Stay
Rear Reflector
Rear Brake
Wheel Reflector
Freewheel
Gear Control
Cable
Rear Derailleur
Brake Control Cables
Handlebar Stem
Head Set
Head Tube
Seat Tube
Down Tube
Gear Control Cable
Front Derailleur
Bottom
Bracket Axle
Rim
Tire
Chain Wheel
Crank Arm
Pedal
Chain Stay
Chain
Handlebar
Brake Lever
Front Reflector
Front Brake
Front Fork
Wheel Reflector
Front Hub
Spokes
Tire Valve
PA R T 1 - PA R T S I D E N T I F I C A T I O N
02
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03
BMX Bicycles . BMX style bicycles are a popular general purpose type most suited for young riders. They are
valued because of their sturdy and simple construction, and low maintenance.
Front Brake Lever
Handlebar
Seat
Seat Post
Seat Post Binder Bolt or
Quick-Release Skewer
Seat Stay
Rear Reflector
Wheel Reflector
Chain
Chain Stay
Rear Sprocket
Training Wheel
Handlebar Grip
Handlebar Stem
Head Set
Head Tube
Top Tube
Seat Tube
Down Tube
Chain Wheel
Brake Control Cable
Front Reflector
Front Brake
Brake Pad
Front Fork
Wheel Reflector
Front Hub
Spokes
Crank Arm
Pedal
Rim
Tire
Tire Valve
Page 11
Your new bicycle was assembled and tuned in the factory and then partially disassembled for shipping. You
may have purchased the bicycle already fully assembled and ready to ride OR in the shipping carton in the partially disassembled form. The following instructions will enable you to prepare your bicycle for years of enjoyable cycling. For more details on inspection, lubrication, maintenance and adjustment of any area please refer
to the relevant sections in this manual. If you have questions about your ability to properly assemble this unit,
please consult a qualified specialist before riding. If you need replacement parts or have questions pertaining to
assembly of your bicycle, call the service line direct at:
SERVICE AND TECHNICAL SUPPORT:
1.800.626.2811
Monday - Friday 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Central Time.
Tools Required:
• Phillips head screw driver
• 4mm, 5mm 6mm & 8mm Allen keys
• Adjustable wrench or a 9mm, 10mm,
14mm & 15mm open and box
end wrenches
• A pair of pliers with cable cutting ability
To avoid injury, this product must be properly assembled before use. If your bicycle was
obtained assembled, we strongly recommend that you review the complete assembly
instructions and perform checks specified in this manual before riding.
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ABOUT THIS MANUAL
It is important for you to understand your new bicycle. By reading this manual before you go out on your first ride, you’ll know how to get
better performance, comfort, and enjoyment from your new bicycle.
It is also important that your first ride on your new bicycle is taken in a controlled environment, away from cars, obstacles, and other
cyclists.
GENERAL WARNING
Bicycling can be a hazardous activity even under the best of circumstances. Proper maintenance of your bicycle is your responsibility as
it helps reduce the risk of injury. This manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” concerning the consequences of failure to maintain or inspect your bicycle. Many of the warnings and cautions say “you may lose control and fall.” Because any fall can result in serious injury or even death, we do not repeat the warning of possible injury or death whenever the risk of falling is mentioned.
A SPECIAL NOTE FOR PARENTS
It is a tragic fact that most bicycle accidents involve children. As a parent or guardian, you bear the responsibility for the activities and
safety of your minor child. Among these responsibilities are to make sure that the bicycle which your child is riding is properly fitted to the
child; that it is in good repair and safe operating condition; that you and your child have learned, understand and obey not only the applicable local motor vehicle, bicycle, and traffic laws, but also the common sense rules of safe and responsible bicycling. As a parent, you
should read this manual before letting your child ride the bicycle. Please make sure that your child always wears an approved bicycle
helmet when riding.
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CORRECT FRAME SIZE
1-2in.
When selecting a new bicycle, the correct choice of frame size is a very important safety consideration. Most full sized
bicycles come in a range of frame sizes. These sizes usually refer to the distance between the center of the bottom bracket
and the top of the frame seat tube.
For safe and comfortable riding there should be clearance of no less than 1 - 2 inches between
the groin area of the intended rider and the top tube of the bicycle frame, while the rider straddles the
bicycle with both feet flat on the ground.
The ideal clearance will vary between types of bicycles and rider preference. This makes straddling the frame when off the
saddle easier and safer in situations such as sudden traffic stops. Women can use a men’s style bicycle to determine the
correct size women’s model.
The following chart and diagram will help you make the correct choice. Rider leg length refers to approximate pant inseam.
Frame Sizing Guide
PART 2 - BEFORE YOU RIDE
Approximate Rider Leg
Length
61-69cm / 24-27 inches
66-76cm / 26-30 inches
71-79cm / 28-31 inches
76-84cm / 30-33 inches
79-86cm / 31-34 inches
81-89cm / 32-35 Inches
86-94cm / 34-37 inches
Suggested Frame Size for
Racing/Touring Bicycle
-
-
50cm / 19.5 inches
55cm / 21.5 inches
57cm / 22.5 inches
60cm / 23.5 Inches
63cm / 25 inches
Suggested Frame Size for
Mountain or Hybrid Bicycle
37cm / 14.5 inches
43cm / 17 inches
45cm / 18 inches
50cm / 19.5 inches
52cm / 20.5 inches
53-56cm / 21-22 Inches
58-60cm / 23-23.5 inches
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Maximum Height /
Minimum Insertion Mark
(Should not be visible)
Arms not over-
extended
Handlebar stem
height about the
same as
seat height
RIDING POSITION
Saddle Height
In order to obtain the most comfortable riding position and offer the
best possible pedaling efficiency, the seat height should be set
correctly in relation to the rider’s leg length. The correct saddle height
should not allow leg strain from over-extension, and the hips should
not rock from side to side when pedaling. While sitting on the bicycle
with one pedal at its lowest point, place the ball of your foot on that
pedal. The correct saddle height will allow the knee to be slightly
bent in this position. If the rider then places the heel of that foot on
the pedal, the leg should be almost straight.
Under no circumstances should the seat post project
from the frame beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or
“Maximum Extension” mark. If your seat post projects
from the frame beyond these markings, the seat post
or frame may break, which could cause you to lose
control and fall. Prior to your first ride, be sure to tighten the
saddle adjusting mechanism properly. A loose saddle clamp or
seat post binder can cause damage to the bicycle or can cause
you to lose control and fall. Periodically check to make sure that
the saddle adjusting mechanism is properly tightened.
Reach
To obtain maximum comfort, the rider should not overextend his or her
reach when riding.
07
Pedal at
bottom position
To adjust this distance, the position of the seat can be altered in
relation to the seat pillar. (Refer to p. 27 on how to adjust the seat
clamp.)
Page 15
Stem Wedge Bolt
Handlebar Height
Maximum comfort is usually obtained when the handlebar height is
equal to the height of the seat. You may wish to try different heights
to find the most comfortable position.
Handlebar Binder Bolt
Exceeds 2 1/2”
(64mm)
Threadless headsets and clamp-on stems are not adjustable. Please refer to page 23
for instructions on installation.
The stem’s “Minimum Insertion” mark must not be visible above the top of the headset.
If the stem is extended beyond this mark, the stem may break or damage the fork’s
steerer tube, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
Failure to properly tighten the stem binder bolt, the handlebar binder bolt, or the bar
end extension clamping bolts may compromise steering action, which could cause
you to lose control and fall. Place the front wheel of the bicycle between your legs and
attempt to twist the handlebar/stem assembly using a reasonable amount of force. If
you can twist the stem in relation to the front wheel, turn the handlebars in relation to
the stem, or turn the bar end extensions in relation to the handlebar, you must tighten
the appropriate bolts accordingly.
Maximum Height/
Minimum Insertion
Mark
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SAFETY CHECKLIST
Before every ride, it is important to carry out the following safety checks:
1. Brakes
- Ensure front and rear brakes work properly.
- Ensure brake shoe pads are not over worn and are correctly positioned in relation to the rims.
- Ensure brake control cables are lubricated, correctly adjusted and display no obvious wear.
- Ensure brake control levers are lubricated and tightly secured to the handlebar.
2. Wheels and Tires
- Ensure tires are inflated to within the recommended limit as displayed on the tire sidewall.
- Ensure tires have tread and have no bulges or excessive wear.
- Ensure rims run true and have no obvious wobbles or kinks.
- Ensure all wheel spokes are tight and not broken.
- Check that axle nuts are tight. If your bicycle is fitted with quick release axles, make sure locking levers
are correctly tensioned and in the closed position.
3. Steering
- Ensure handlebar and stem are correctly adjusted and tightened, and allow proper steering.
- Ensure that the handlebars are set correctly in relation to the forks and the direction of travel.
- Check that the headset locking mechanism is properly adjusted and tightened.
- If the bicycle is fitted with handlebar end extensions, ensure they are properly positioned and tightened.
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4. Chain
- Ensure chain is oiled, clean and runs smoothly.
- Extra care is required in wet or dusty conditions.
5. Bearings
- Ensure all bearings are lubricated, run freely and display no excess movement, grinding or rattling.
- Ensure pedals are securely tightened to the cranks.
- Ensure cranks are securely tightened to the axle and are not bent.
7. Derailleurs
- Check that front and rear mechanisms are adjusted and function properly.
- Ensure control levers are securely attached.
- Ensure derailleurs, shift levers and control cables are properly lubricated.
8. Frame and Fork
- Check that the frame and fork are not bent or broken.
- If either are bent or broken, they should be replaced.
9. Accessories
- Ensure that all reflectors are properly fitted and not obscured.
- Ensure all other fittings on the bike are properly and securely fastened, and functioning.
- Ensure the rider is wearing a helmet.
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Helmets
It is strongly advised that a properly fitting, ANSI or SNELL approved,
bicycle safety helmet be worn at all times when riding your bicycle. In
addition, if you are carrying a passenger in a child safety seat, they
must also be wearing a helmet.
The correct helmet should:
- be comfortable
- be lightweight
- have good ventilation
- fit correctly
- cover forehead
Always wear a properly fitted helmet which covers the forehead when riding a bicycle. Many states
require specific safety devices. It is your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the state
where you ride and to comply with all applicable laws, including properly equipping yourself and your
bike as the law requires. Reflectors are important safety devices which are designed as an integral part
of your bicycle. Federal regulations require every bicycle to be equipped with front, rear, wheel, and
pedal reflectors. These reflectors are designed to pick up and reflect street lights and car lights in a
way that helps you to be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist. Check reflectors and their mounting brackets regularly to make sure they are clean, straight, unbroken and securely mounted. Have your
dealer replace damaged reflectors and straighten or tighten any that are bent or loose.
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Reflectors
Your bicycle is supplied with one front (white), one rear (red), two wheel (white), and four pedal (orange)
reflectors. (Please Note: Sidewalk bikes, 12” and under, may not have reflectors.) These are an important safety and legal
requirement, and should remain securely fitted and in good, clean condition at all times. Periodically, inspect all reflectors,
brackets and mounting hardware for signs of wear or damage. Replace immediately if damage is found. Some bicycles will
require you to install your reflectors onto your bicycle. Please refer to the following section for instructions on all the types of
bicycle reflectors.
Fork Mount Reflector Bracket Assembly
First insert one washer onto the hex bolt and insert hex bolt through the reflector
bracket and then through the fork. Next, insert a second washer onto the bolt and
thread a hex nut onto the bolt behind the fork. Tighten bolts until snug, making sure
the reflector is in an upright position. See diagram at the right.
Front Reflector Mount with Caliper Brake Assembly
First remove the hex nut from the back of the fork and pull the brake from the fork.
Insert a spacer, washer and the reflector bracket on to the caliper bolt. Insert the
caliper bolt back into the fork and secure firmly with a concave spacer, washer and
the hex nut. Finally, adjust the reflector such that it is in an upright position. See diagram at the right.
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Seat and Handlebar Mounting Reflectors
First attach the reflector to the reflector bracket with the reflector screw, see the top
diagram. Next, remove the clamp screw and open the clamping reflector bracket.
Place clamping reflector bracket around the handlebar or seatpost. If the clamp
is too loose, insert the shim inside of the clamp. Tighten the clamp screw to hold
reflector assembly in place, see the second diagram. Finally, adjust the reflector
assembly in place and ensure that it is upright and facing away from the bike.
Seatstay Mount Reflector Bracket Assembly
First insert one washer onto the hex bolt and insert hex bolt through the reflector
bracket and then through the seatstay bridge. Next, insert a second washer onto the
bolt and thread a hex nut onto the bolt behind the seatstay bridge. Tighten bolts until
snug, making sure the reflector is in an upright position. See diagram at the right.
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RIDING SAFELY
General Rules
When riding obey the same road laws as all other road vehicles, including giving way to
pedestrians, and stopping at red lights and stop signs.
For further information, contact the Road Traffic Authority in your State.
Ride predictably and in a straight line. Never ride against traffic.
Use correct hand signals to indicate turning or stopping.
Ride defensively. To other road users, you may be hard to see.
Concentrate on the path ahead. Avoid pot holes, gravel, wet road markings, oil, curbs, speed
bumps, drain grates and other obstacles.
Cross train tracks at a 90 degree angle or walk your bicycle across.
Expect the unexpected such as opening car doors or cars backing out of concealed driveways.
Be extra careful at intersections and when preparing to pass other vehicles.
Familiarize yourself with all the bicycle's features. Practice gear shifts, braking, and the use of
toe clips and straps, if fitted.
If you are wearing loose pants, use leg clips or elastic bands to prevent them from being caught
in the chain. Wear proper riding attire and avoid open toe shoes.
Don't carry packages or passengers that will interfere with your visibility or control of the bicycle.
Don't use items that may restrict your hearing.
Do not lock up the brakes. When braking, always apply the rear brake first, then the front. The
front brake is more powerful and if it is not correctly applied, you may lose control and fall.
Maintain a comfortable stopping distance from all other riders, vehicles and objects.
Safe braking distances and forces are subject to the prevailing weather conditions.
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Wet Weather
IT IS RECOMMENDED TO NOT RIDE IN WET WEATHER
- In wet weather you need to take extra care.
- Brake earlier, you will take a longer distance to stop.
- Decrease your riding speed, avoid sudden braking and take corners with additional
caution.
- Be more visible on the road.
- Wear reflective clothing and use safety lights.
- Pot holes and slippery surfaces such as line markings and train tracks all become more
hazardous when wet.
Night Riding
IT IS RECOMMENDED TO NOT RIDE AT NIGHT
- Ensure bicycle is equipped with a full set of correctly positioned and clean reflectors.
- Refer to p. 12-13 and p. 93 of this manual.
- Use a properly functioning lighting set comprising of a white front lamp and a red rear lamp.
- If using battery powered lights, make sure batteries are well charged.
- Some rear lights available have a flashing mechanism which enhances visibility.
- Wear reflective and light colored clothing.
- Ride at night only if necessary. Slow down and use familiar roads with street lighting, if possible.
Pedaling Technique
- Position the ball of your foot on the center of the pedal.
- When pedaling, ensure your knees are parallel to the bicycle frame.
- To absorb shock, keep your elbows slightly bent.
- Learn to operate the gears properly. (Refer to p. 17-19)
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Hill Technique
- Gear down before a climb and continue gearing down as required to maintain pedaling speed.
- If you reach the lowest gear and are struggling, stand up on your pedals. You will then obtain more power from
each pedal revolution.
- On the descent, use the high gears to avoid rapid pedaling.
- Do not exceed a comfortable speed; maintain control and take additional care.
Cornering Technique
Brake slightly before cornering and prepare to lean your body into the corner. Maintain the inside pedal at the 12 o'clock
position and slightly point the inside knee in the direction you are turning. Keep the other leg straight, don't pedal through
fast or tight corners.
Please refer to pages 103-4 for braking techniques and pages 104-7 for gear shifting techniques.
Rules for Children
To avoid accidents, teach children good riding skills with an emphasis on safety from an early age. Children should be supervised by an adult.
1. Always wear a properly fitted helmet.
2. Do not play in driveways or the road.
3. Do not ride on busy streets.
4. Do not ride at night.
5. Obey all the traffic laws, especially stop signs and red lights.
6. Be aware of other road vehicles behind and nearby.
7. Before entering a street: Stop, look right, left, and right again for traffic. If there's no traffic, proceed into the roadway.
8. If riding downhill, be extra careful. Slow down using the brakes and maintain control of the steering.
9. Never take your hands off the handlebars, or your feet off the pedals when riding downhill.
The Consumer Protection Safety Commission advises that the riding of small wheel diameter
bicycles at excessive speeds can lead to instability and is not recommended.
Children should be made aware of all possible riding hazards and correct riding behavior before they take to the streets.
- Do not leave it up to trial and error.
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Drivetrain
Freewheel
Cogs
Guide Pulley
Rear Derailleur
Front Derailleur
Front Chainwheels
Crank Arm
Pedal
Derailleur Control
Cable
GEARS - HOW TO OPERATE
Derailleur Gears
Most multi-speed bicycles today are equipped with what are known
as derailleur gears. They operate using a system of levers and mechanisms to move the drive chain between different sized driving gears
or cogs. The purpose of gears is to let you maintain a constant, steady
pedaling pace under varying conditions. This means your riding will
be less
tiring without unnecessary straining up hills or fast pedaling down
hill. Bicycles come with a variety of gear configurations from 5 to 27
speeds. A 5-6 speed bicycle will have a single front chainwheel, a
rear derailleur, and 5 or 6 cogs on the rear hub. Bicycles with more
gears will also have a front derailleur, a front chainwheel with
2-3 cogs, and up to 9 cogs on the rear hub.
Operating Principles
No matter how many gears, the operating principles are the same.
The front derailleur is operated by the left shift lever and the rear
derailleur by the right. To operate you must be pedaling forward. You
can not shift derailleur gears when you are stopped or when pedaling
backwards. Before shifting ease up on your pedaling pressure. For
a smooth gear change when approaching a hill, shift to a lower gear
BEFORE your pedaling speed slows down too much. When coming
to a stop, shift to a lower gear first so it will be easier when you start
riding again. If, after selecting a new gear position, you hear a slight
rubbing noise from the front or rear gears, gently adjust the appropriate
shifter using the barrel adjusters until the noise goes away. For optimal performance and extended chain life, it is recommended that you
avoid using the extreme combinations of gear positions (diagram p.
Some bicycles are now being equipped with a shifting
mechanism called Grip Shift™, which is built into the handlebar grips
and does not make use of separate levers. The actuating mechanism
is built into the inside part of the grip that the web of the thumb and
index finger closes around. To select a lower gear, twist the right shifter toward you to engage a larger rear cog. You can shift one gear at
a time by moving the Grip Shift™ one click, or through multiple gears
by continued twisting. By twisting the left shifter forward or away from
you, a smaller chainwheel can be selected. To select a higher gear,
twist the right shifter forward or away from you to engage a smaller
rear cog. To engage a larger front chainwheel, twist the left shifter
towards you. Single shifts can be achieved by twisting one click at a
Front High Gear Rear High Gear
time and multiple shifts by larger twists.
2
High
1
Low
These combinations are
NOT RECOMMENDED
for optimal performance.
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Left hand lever Right hand lever
Thumb Shifters (Top Mounted)
Most mountain style bicycles are equipped with shifters
mounted on the top of the handlebars and operated by the thumbs.
To select a lower, easier gear, shift to a bigger rear cog and a small
chainwheel. Pull the left shifter back to operate the front derailleur,
and push the right shifter forward to operate the rear derailleur. To
select a higher, harder gear, shift to a smaller rear cog and a larger
chainwheel. Push the left shifter forward for the front, and pull the
right lever back for the rear.
19
Left hand lever Right hand lever
Top Gear
(Harder)
Small rear sprocket
Large chainwheel
Left hand lever forward
Right hand lever back
Bottom Gear
(Easier)
Large rear sprocket
Small chainwheel
Left hand lever back
Right hand lever forward
Below the Bar Shifters
Many mountain style bicycles now use a shift lever arrangement
mounted on the underside of the handlebars, which use two levers
operated by the thumb and index finger. To select a lower gear push
the larger (lower) right shifter with your thumb to engage a larger rear
cog. One firm push shifts the chain one cog, continuing to push will
move the chain over multiple cogs. Pulling the smaller (upper) left
shifter with your index finger moves the chain from a larger to a smaller
chainwheel. To select a higher gear pull the smaller (upper) right
lever with your index finger to engage a smaller rear cog. Pushing
the larger (lower) left lever with your thumb will move the chain from a
smaller to a larger chainwheel. Please refer to page 98 for additional
instructions in “How Things Work”.
Page 27
BICYCLE CARE
Basic Maintenance
The following procedures will help you maintain your bicycle for years of enjoyable riding.
For painted frames, dust the surface and remove any loose dirt with a dry cloth. To clean, wipe with a damp cloth
soaked in a mild detergent mixture. Dry with a cloth and polish with car or furniture wax. Use soap and water to clean
plastic parts and rubber tires. Chrome plated bikes should be wiped over with a rust preventative fluid.
Store your bicycle under shelter. Avoid leaving it in the rain or exposed to corrosive materials.
Riding on the beach or in coastal areas exposes your bicycle to salt which is very corrosive. Wash your bicycle
frequently and wipe or spray all unpainted parts with an anti-rust treatment. Make sure wheel rims are dry so braking
performance is not affected. After rain, dry your bicycle and apply anti-rust treatment.
If the hub and bottom bracket bearings of your bicycle have been submerged in water, they should be taken out and
re-greased. This will prevent accelerated bearing deterioration.
If paint has become scratched or chipped to the metal, use touch up paint to prevent rust. Clear nail polish can also be
used as a preventative measure.
Regularly clean and lubricate all moving parts, tighten components and make adjustments as required. (Refer to Parts
4 and 5 of this manual for further details).
The use of alloy components and BED, SATIN and TITANIUM surface treatments minimizes the number of places
where rust can surface.
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Storage
Keep your bicycle in a dry location away from the weather and the
sun. Ultraviolet rays may cause paint to fade or rubber and plastic
parts to crack. Before storing your bicycle for a long period of time,
clean and lubricate all components and wax the frame. Deflate the
tires to half pressure and hang the bicycle off the ground. Don't store
near electric motors as ozone emissions may effect the rubber and
paint. Don't cover with plastic as "sweating” will result which may
cause rusting. Please notice that your bicycle warranty does not
cover paint damage, rust, corrosion, dry rot or theft.
Security
It is advisable that the following steps be taken to prepare for and help
prevent possible theft.
1. Maintain a record of the bicycle’s serial number, generally located
on the frame underneath the bottom bracket.
2. Register the bicycle with the local police.
3. Invest in a high quality bicycle lock that will resist hack saws and
bolt cutters. Always lock your bicycle to an immovable object if it
is left unattended.
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DERAILLEUR GEARED BICYCLES
Includes 20", 24” and 26" Wheel Mountain Bikes
Assembly is the same for men’s
and women’s bikes.
Getting Started
Open the carton from the top and remove the bicycle. Remove the
straps and protective wrapping from the bicycle. Inspect the bicycle
and all accessories and parts for possible shortages. It is recommended
that the threads and all moving parts in the parts package be lubricated
prior to installation. Do not discard packing materials until assembly is
complete to insure that no required parts are accidentally discarded.
Assemble your bicycle following the steps that pertain to your model.
Note: Your bicycle may be equipped with different style components
than the ones illustrated.
Handlebars
Remove the protective cap from the handlebar stem wedge and loosen
the Allen key bolt using the 6mm Allen key. Some models may use a
13mm hexagonal bolt instead of an Allen key bolt. Place the handlebar
stem into the top of the head tube, ensuring that all cables are free of
tangles. Tighten the stem bolt observing the minimum insertion mark and
checking that the forks and the handlebars are facing forward. Check
the headset for smooth rotation and that the top nut is secured tightly.
Loosen the 6mm Binder Bolt and rotate the handlebar forward so the
levers are at a 45 degree angle below the handlebar. Retighten the
Binder Bolt to ensure the handlebar does not rotate in the stem.
Stem Bolt
Top Nut
Wedge
Binder Bolt
Minimum Insertion
Mark
Head Tube
We recommend that you consult a bicycle specialist
if you have doubts or concerns as to your experience or ability to properly assembly, repair, or maintain your bicycle.
Warning: Over tightening the stem bolt or headset
assembly may cause damage to the bicycle and/or
injury to the rider.
PART 3 - ASSEMBLY
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NOTE: Comfort Series (CS) bicycles may be equipped with a stem that has an adjustable angle.
In addition to the normal assembly, these stems will require angling the stem to the desired position,
and securely tightening the 6mm angle bolt located in front of the stem bolt.
Failure to do this may cause loss of steering control.
Installed
by
factory
Compression Bolt
Stem Clamp Bolts
Bearing Race
Bearing Retainer
Upper Headset Cup
Bearing Retainer
Top Cap
Spacer
fork
Headset Wedge
Bearing Dust Cover
Star Nut
(Inside Steerer Tube)
Steerer Tube
Headtube
Lower Headset Cup
Bearing Dust Cover
Headset Crown Race
Handlebar
Stem Cap
Bolts
Stem Cap
Tightening/Preloading Aheadset
Stem Installation (Should be assembled on the
bike already)
1. Insert the compression bolt through the top
cap and the stem. Begin threading into the
star nut.
2.Tighten compression bolt so it removes all
play from the fork, but allows the fork to rotate
smoothly.
3. Align the stem with the front wheel. Tighten
the stem clamp bolts to secure the stem to the
steerer tube.
Handlebar Installation
1. Remove the stem cap bolts and stem cap.
2. Insert handlebar into the stem cap.
3. Tighten the stem cap bolts equally. Note
the distance between the stem and stem cap:
It should be equal on the top and bottom of the
stem cap. A must be equal distance.
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Sunken Stem Bolt System
1. Remove the protective shipping cap from the stem wedge.
2. Remove the Stem Plug from the stem. Loosen the Stem Bolt
with a 6mm allen wrench.
3. Insert the stem into the headtube of the bicycle. Ensure that the
Minimum Insertion Line is below the top nut of the headset.
4. Align the stem and handlebar so it is in line with the front wheel.
5. Tighten the Stem Bolt with the 6mm allen wrench. Reinsert the
Stem Plug into the stem.
WARNING: MINIMUM INSERTION LINE MUST BE HIDDEN WITHIN
THE HEADTUBE OF THE BICYCLE.
If the stem is not inserted into the top nut to at least the “Minimum Insertion” mark, it is
possible to over-tighten the stem bolt and damage the fork steerer tube. If these instructions are not followed, it could cause an unsafe condition and risk injury to the rider.
Check steering tightness prior to riding by straddling the front wheel. Try turning the handlebar. If you can turn it without turning the front wheel, the stem is too loose. Re-align
the handlebar with the front wheel and re-tighten the stem bolt.
24
Page 32
1.
Bar end (5mm Allen key)
Shifters
Tighten all bolts that clamp the shifters, brake levers and bar ends to
the handlebar using a 5mm Allen key or Phillips head screwdriver.
(Figure 1) Handlebar with Grip Shifter.
(Figure 2) Top mounted thumb shifter.
Failure to properly tighten clamping bolts may
cause sudden movement of the component
resulting in loss of steering control.
Shifter binder bolt
(2.5 Allen key)
Brake lever binder bolt
(5mm Allen key)
Shift binder
bolt (Phillips
head or 5mm
Allen key)
2.
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Page 33
Crown
Steering Tube
Brake Boss
Drop-out
Forks
There are two different types of forks that vary in styles and
dimensions. One type is a rigid fork (Figure 1) consisting of
stationary tubing with curved blades. The other type is a
suspension fork (Figure 2) consisting of stanchion tubes
riding on elastomers or springs inside of a straight fork leg.
This mechanism acts as a shock absorber with a specified
amount of travel that varies between models. Some suspension forks are not adjustable and are very difficult to disassemble. If service is needed on a suspension fork, consult a
professional bicycle repair technician.
1.
Crown
Steering Tube
2.
Blade
Fork Blade
Brake Bridge
Brake Boss
Drop-out
Do not attempt to disassemble a suspension
fork yourself. Consult a professional bicycle
repair technician.
Check the tightness of the headset and the fork. Rotate the
fork checking for smoothness. If it feels like the fork is
binding, then an adjustment will need to be made to the
headset. Move the fork in a push/pull manner checking for
tightness. If any play is detected, loosen the top nut, adjust
the bearing cup, and retighten the top nut. Recheck the
rotation and tightness. If necessary, readjust until a smooth
rotation is achieved without backward or forward movement. If your bike is equipped with a suspension fork, check
that the fork compresses and rebounds smoothly. To do
this, place the fork dropouts against the ground, push and
release the handlebar. The fork will generally compress 1-2”
and rebound quickly. Most elastomer type forks will gradually
soften with use.
26
Page 34
Seat
Clamp
Attach
Seat Here
Boot
Adjusting
Nut
Seat
Post
Quick
Release
Seat and Seat Post
Attach the seat to the seat post by loosening the nuts on the seat clamp. Insert the
tapered end of the seat post into the seat clamp until it is at the top of the clamp.
Partially tighten the nuts on the seat clamp until the seat is snug, but can still be
turned. Insert the seat assembly into the frame of the bicycle and adjust the seat to
the proper height. The seat post must be inserted to at least the “Minimum Insertion” line marked on the seat post. If equipped with a quick release skewer; tighten
the adjusting nut by hand and move the quick release lever to the closed position.
You should feel considerable resistance while moving the lever. If not, re-open and
re-tighten the lever, then move it to the closed position so it is in line with the frame
as pictured. If equipped with a binder clamp; Insure the lip on the binder clamp is
fitted completely against the top of the seat tube of the frame. With the seat post
inserted, tighten the binder bolt securely. Position the top of the seat parallel with
the ground. Push the front of the seat up and down to firmly mesh the serrations
together. The serrations must mesh completely together to insure a stabilized riding position. Securely tighten the nut on the seat clamp. If there is a nut on both
sides of the clamp, tighten each one by alternating from one to the other. Check for
tightness by twisting the seat from side to side, and from front to back. If the seat
moves at the seat clamp or quick release, reposition and re-tighten the appropriate
clamping mechanism.
NOTE: Comfort Series (CS) bicycles may be equipped with a suspension
seat post (See Diagram-bottom left). Some suspension posts can be adjusted for stiffness using the preload adjusting screw. Turning the 6mm Allen screw Clockwise will
decrease travel and make the suspension stiffer, while turning the 6mm Allen screw
Counter-clockwise will increase travel and make the suspension less rigid.
27
Minimum
Insertion
Mark
Preload adjusting
screw on underside
Insert this
end into
frame
Note: In addition to normal assembly, please be aware that the preload adjusting
screw must be flush with the bottom of the post. Some bicycles may come equipped
with a shim that should be positioned over the lower half of the seat post and inserted
into the seat tube of the frame. Failure to do this may cause irreparable damage.
The seat post must be inserted so that the minimum insertion
mark cannot be seen. The quick release mechanism must be
tightened securely to prevent a sudden shift of the seat when
riding. Failure to do this may cause loss of bicycle control.
Page 35
Dust
Cap
Pedals & Crank Set
Look for the letters “R” for right, and “L” for left, stamped on each pedal
spindle. Start each pedal spindle by hand to avoid stripping the threads.
Tighten with a 15mm narrow open ended wrench. Note that the right
hand pedal attaches to the chainwheel side crank arm with a right-hand
(clockwise) thread. The left pedal attaches to the other crank arm and has
a left-hand (counter-clockwise) thread. It is very important that you check
the crank set for correct adjustment and tightness before riding your
bicycle. New cranks may become loose with initial use, refer to p. 83-86
for proper crank set adjustment and maintenance. Once the pedals have
been installed, remove the dust caps from the center of each crank arm.
Using a 14mm socket wrench, tighten the spindle nuts securely (approx.
350 in. lbs.) and replace the dust caps.
Attachment of an incorrect pedal into a crank arm can
strip pedal threads and cause irreparable damage. Before
your first ride, please check to insure your pedals are
attached correctly.
28
Page 36
Adjusting
Nut
Quick Release
Axle
Hub
Axle
Closed Position
Open Position
Hub
Quick
Release
Lever
Spring
Front Wheel
Check the wheel hub before attaching it to the fork by rotating the
threaded axle. It should be smooth with no lateral movement. Insert
the front wheel into the fork dropouts. Tighten the wheel nuts using
the appropriate 14mm or 15mm wrench. Spin the wheel checking for
trueness. Some bicycles have wheel axles that incorporate a Quick
Release (QR) mechanism. This allows easy wheel removal without
the need for tools. The mechanism uses a long bolt with an adjusting
nut on one end, and a lever operating a cam-action tensioner on the
other. If the wheel is fitted with a Quick Release type axle, turn the
adjusting nut so that the locking lever is moved to the closed position
with a firm action. At the halfway closed position of the quick release
lever, you should start to feel some resistance to this motion. Do not
tighten the quick release by using the quick release lever like a wing
nut. If the quick release lever is moved to the closed position with no
resistance, clamping strength is insufficient. Move the quick release
lever to the open position, tighten the quick release adjusting nut,
and return the quick release lever to the closed position.
Correct Quick Release Axle Setting
1. To set, turn the lever to the open position so that the curved
part faces away from the bicycle.
2. While holding the lever in one hand, tighten the adjusting nut
until it stops.
3. Pivot the lever towards the closed position. When the lever is
halfway closed, there must be firm resistance to turn it
beyond that point. If resistance is not firm, open the lever and
tighten the adjusting nut in a clockwise direction.
4. Continue to pivot the lever all the way to the closed position
so that the curved part of the lever faces the bicycle.
29
Page 37
Cantilever
Brakes
Cable
End
2. Set the cable into
1. Install the cable into
2
1
5. The wheel is tightly secured when the serrated surfaces of the
quick release clamping parts actually begin to cut into the
bicycle frame/fork surfaces.
6. Note that the same procedure applies when operating a quick
release seat post binder mechanism.
7. Turn the bicycle upright using the kickstand to support it.
If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping your
fingers around the fork blade for leverage, and the lever does
not leave a clear imprint in the palm of you hand, the tension is
insufficient. Open the lever, turn the adjusting, and try again.
Continue until the QR lever closes properly. Secondary retention
devices are not a substitute for a correct quick release adjustment. Failure to properly adjust the quick release mechanism
can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage, which could cause
you to lose control and fall, resulting in serous injury or death.
Front Brake
Determine which type of brake your bike is equipped with and refer to
the appropriate assembly instructions. For more information on brake
adjustment and maintenance, refer to p. 77-80.
Cantilever Brakes - Utilizing a Link Wire
If fitted with cantilever type brakes, insert the brake cable into the link
wire lead, and notch the cable end into the slot of the left brake arm.
Loosen the anchor bolt on the right brake arm and slide the brake cable
under the tabbed washer. Squeeze both brake arms together so the
brake shoes hit the rim, pull all slack out of the brake cable, and tighten
the anchor bolt. With the cable fitted, the straddle holder should sit
10-20mm above the reflector bracket. Adjust the brake shoes using a
10mm wrench so that they are parallel with the rim and are positioned
1-2mm away from the rim. Several adjustments may be necessary to
achieve the correct brake position.
30
Page 38
3
3. Temporarily tighten the cable so
that the link wire is at the position in
the illustration.
Link Wire
5. Secure one of the shoes at a time.
The adjustment of the shoe clearance is
not necessary at this time.
Shoe fixing nut tightening torque:
7.84 - 8.82 Nm (70 - 78 in. lbs.)
31
To u c h i n g
1
Cable Anchor Bolt
Spring tension
adjustment screw
Cable Casing Holder
2
4. Turn the spring tension
adjustment screw so that the link
wire comes to a position directly
below the cable casing holder.
1
2
1 mm
10 mm wrench
5 mm Allen key
6. If balance adjustment is necessary,
adjust with the spring tension
adjustment screw.
Cut off any unnecessary cable, attach an end
cap, and hook it onto the
1
2
notched part of the nut
which secures the shoe.
End cap
1
2
Page 39
Straddle
Cable
Brake
Pinch Bolt
Pivot
Brake
Noodle
Pivot
Bolt
o
90
Outer
Cable
Lead
Brake
Shoe
Brake
Cable
Boot
Brake Cable
Straddle Hanger
Straddle Cable
Cable
Anchor
Caliper Arm
Anchor
Bolt
Brake
Arm
Tension
Screw
Cantilever Brakes - Utilizing a Straddle Cable
The length of the straddle cable, the height of the straddle hanger,
and the brake pad-to-caliper arm position all have an effect on braking power. Generally, the straddle cable bridge is set low and close
to the tire for maximum braking force. The straddle cable should be
high enough, however, to adequately clear the tire (and any debris
that may stick to the tire) or to fit over the front reflector hanger. In the
event of brake cable failure, the front reflector hanger would prevent
the straddle cable from catching in the tire and locking up the front
wheel. The straddle cable length (when adjustable) is set to transfer
as much force to the brake pads as possible. For the most efficient
transfer of force, the straddle cable and the line between the cantilever
pivot and the cable anchor should form a right angle (90 degrees). If
the force is not at a right angle, part of the force gets wasted in pulling
on the brake post, which has no effect on braking.
V-Style Brakes
If not already assembled, take the brake noodle from the parts box
and slide the cable through the larger opening. The cable housing
will then seat into the end of the noodle. Slide the cable through the
cable lead on the end of the left brake arm, this will cause the noodle
to fit into the lead. Slip the brake cable boot over the cable and position it between both brake arms. Next, loosen the 5mm anchor bolt
at the end of the right brake arm and slide the cable under the retaining washer. Pull the slack out of the cable making sure a distance of
39mm or more remains between the end of the lead and the start of
the anchor bolt. Once the cable is secured to the brake arms, engage
the brake lever several times, checking the position of the brake
shoes at the rim. The brake shoes should be 1mm away from the
rim when in a relaxed position. When the brake lever is engaged, the
brake shoe should hit the rim flush (never the tire) with the front brake
pad touching the rim slightly before the rear. This is called “toeing-in”
your brake shoe. If this position is not achieved, adjustments to the
brake shoe are required. Loosen the brake shoe hardware and reposition the brake shoe. It may take several shoe and cable adjustments
before the required position is accomplished.
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Page 40
V - Brake
If fitted with V-Brakes, insert the brake body
1.
into the center spring hole in the frame mounting boss, and then secure the brake body to the
frame with the link fixing bolt.
5 mm Allen key
Washer
Spring
hole
Stopper pin
Link
fixing
bolt
While holding the shoe against the rim, adjust the
2.
amount of shoe protrusion by interchanging the
position of the B washers (i.e. 6 mm and 3 mm) so that
dimension A is kept at 39 mm or more.
39 mm or more
A
3 mm washer B 6 mm washer B
Shoe fixing nut
Washer A
Shoe fixing link
Washer A
Washer
33
Page 41
While holding the shoe against the
3.
rim, tighten the shoe fixing nut.
shoe fixing nut
Adjust the balance with the spring
5.
tension adjustment screws.
1mm
Pass the inner cable through the inner
4.
5 mm Allen key
cable lead. Set the cable with a clearance
of 1mm between each brake pad and the
rim, tighten the cable fixing bolt.
5 mm Allen key
1mm 1mm
1 mm 1 mm
Spring tension
adjustment screw
Depress the brake lever about 10 times as
6.
Spring tension
adjustment screw
far as the grip to check that everything is
operating correctly and that the shoe
clearance is correct before using the brakes.
Depress about
10 times
34
Page 42
Check your Brakes
Press each brake lever to make sure that there is no binding and that the brake pads press hard enough on the rims to
stop the bike. The brake pads should be adjusted so they are 1 mm to 2 mm away from the rim when the brakes are
not applied. Brake pads should be centered on the rim and “toed-in” so the rear portion of each brake pad is about 0.5
- 1.0 mm farther from the rim than the front portion of the brake pad.
35
Brake pad aligned with the rim surface Pad and rim should be parallel.
1- 2 mm
Do not ride the bicycle until the brakes are functioning
properly. To test, apply the brakes while trying to push
the bike forward to make sure they will stop the bicycle.
Never ride a bicycle that is not functioning properly.
Do not lock up brakes. Sudden or excessive application
of the front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars,
causing serious injury or death. When braking, always
apply the rear brake first, then the front.
Direction of rim
rotation
0.5 - 1.0 mm
Page 43
Brake Cable
Housing
Cable
Insertion
Slot
Caliper
Mounting
Bolt with
spacers
Brake Pads
Caliper
Mounting
Bolt with
spacers
Barrel Adjuster
Lock Nut
Brake CableCable End
“C” Clip
Holder
Brake Lever
Brake Type
Selector
Rotating Rod
Actuating Arm
Cable Anchor
Bolt
Disc Brakes
If fitted with a front disc brake, the components should already
be attached. However, please check all connections before
attempting to ride the bicycle. Secure tightly the 6 bolts that
hold the disc to the front wheel hub and the 2 bolts that hold
the brake mechanism to the fork. Insert the front wheel into the
fork dropouts ensuring that the disc fits into the brake mechanism between the enclosed brake pads. Secure the front wheel
to the bicycle by tightening the quick release mechanism and
clamping the lever to the closed position. Please refer to section 6 for further instruction on quick release mechanisms.
Next, attach the cable to the brake lever by inserting the cable
end into the cable end holder after the barrel adjuster and lock
nut slots have been aligned with the cable end holder. After
the cable is secured to the lever, rotate the barrel adjuster and
lock nut so the slots no longer line up. Ensure the cable housing seats appropriately into the end of the barrel adjuster and
check for any kinks or damage.
Slide the exposed brake cable through the rotating rod located
on the caliper body and seat the housing into the same stop.
Insert the cable into the spring and spring boot.
Next, slide the cable through the cable anchor and pull all the
slack out. Secure the cable in place by tightening the bolts that
comprise the anchor assembly. Some disc brakes will have a
centering devise while others are a free-floating mechanism.
If your caliper body is equipped with centering bolts, apply the
brake lever after the cable has been connected. While engaging
the lever, tighten the centering bolts securely. This will center
the caliper body on the disc.
DISC GETS HOT! Severe injury could result from
contact with the hot disc! Mind your legs, as well
as your hands.
36
Page 44
Disc Mounting
Bolts
Hub
Fork Leg
Centering Bolt
Brake Cable
Housing
Rotating
Rod
Caliper
Body
37
Disc
Actuating
Arm
Fork Drop Out
Quick Release
lever
Caliper Mounting
Bolts with spacers
These brakes require breaking in! Ride and use the brakes gently for 13
miles before using the brakes in downhill conditions, for sudden stops,
or any other serious braking. Please be aware that your brake system will
change in performance throughout the wear-in process. The disc brake
should be cleaned before the first ride using rubbing alcohol. NEVER use oil
or similar products to clean your disc brake system.
Cable Boot
with Spring
inside
Centering Bolt (inside)
Cable Anchor
Bolt
Page 45
FreewheelOuter side of Top Gear
Guide Pulley
Tension Pulley
High Gear
Adjustment Screw
Low Gear
Adjustment
Screw
Barrel
Adjuster
Pulley Adjustment
Adjustment
Screws
SIS Cable Adjuster
H
L
Screw
Derailleur
Although the front and rear derailleurs are initially adjusted at
the factory, you will need to inspect and readjust both before
riding the bicycle.
Rear Derailleur
Begin by shifting the rear shifter to largest number indicated,
disconnect the cable from the rear derailleur cable anchor bolt,
and place the chain on the smallest sprocket.
Adjust the High limit screw so the guide pulley and the
smallest sprocket are lined up vertically. Reconnect the cable,
pull out any slack, and retighten the anchor bolt securely. Shift
through the gears, making sure each gear achieved is done
quietly and without hesitation. If necessary, use the barrel
adjuster to fine tune each gear by turning it the direction you
want the chain to go. For example, turning clockwise will loosen the cable tension and move the chain away from the wheel,
while turning counter-clockwise will tighten cable
tension and direct the chain towards the wheel. Shift the rear
shifter to the gear one and place the chain on the largest cog.
Adjust the Low limit screw in quarter turn increments until the
guide pulley and the largest cog are aligned vertically. Again,
shift through each gear several times, checking that each gear
is achieved smoothly. It may take several attempts before the
rear derailleur and cable is adjusted properly.
Ensure all bolts are secured tightly and the chain
does not fall off in either direction.
Rear Derailleur Side View
38
Page 46
39
Cable Anchor Bolt
Outer Chainguide
Inner Chainguard
Low Adjusting Screw
High Adjusting
Screw
Chainguide
clearance of
1-3mm
Front Derailleur
Shift both shifters to the smallest number indicated and place
the chain on the corresponding cog and chainwheel. Disconnect the front derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt.
Check the position of the front derailleur; it should be parallel
with the outer chainwheel and clear the largest chainwheel by
1-3mm when fully engaged.
With the chain on the smallest chainwheel in front and the
largest cog in back, adjust the Low limit screw so the chain is
centered in the front derailleur cage. Reconnect the cable, pull
any slack out, and tighten the anchor bolt securely. Shift the
front shifter to the largest chainwheel. If the chain does not go
onto the largest chainwheel, turn the high limit screw in 1/4 turn
increments counter-clockwise until the chain engages the largest
chainwheel. If the chain falls off the largest chainwheel, and
into the pedals, you will need to turn the High limit screw in 1/4
turn increments clockwise until the chain no longer falls off.
Shift through every gear, using the barrel adjusters to fine tune
each transition. The barrel adjuster for the front derailleur is
located on the front shifter where the cable comes out of the
shifter. Clockwise will loosen the cable tension and direct the
chain closer to the frame while counter-clockwise will tighten
the cable tension and direct the chain away from the frame.
Do not ride a bicycle that is not shifting properly. Overlooking proper adjustments may cause
irreparable damage to the bicycle and/or bodily
injury. Never move the shifter while pedaling
backward, nor pedal backwards after having
moved the shifter. This could jam the chain
and cause serious damage to the bicycle
and/or rider.
Page 47
Anchor bolt
Spring plate
Spring
Piston
Adjusting plate
Dual Suspension
Dual Suspension bikes (DS) are equipped with a front fork as
well as a rear suspension generally located below the seat.
The piston works in conjunction with a spring to allow the bike
to rotate on a pivot point. Ensure all attaching hardware is
secured and there is no lateral movement of the rear triangle.
The amount of Rear Suspension travel can be adjusted by
turning the adjusting plate. Clockwise will increase spring
tension and decrease travel, while turning counter-clockwise
will decrease spring tension and increase travel. There are
many different types of suspension systems-too many to deal
with individually in this manual.
There must be enough tension on the spring to hold
the spring plate in place. Failure to do this may cause
the mechanism to fail. Failure to maintain, check and
properly adjust the suspension system may result in
suspension malfunction, which can cause you to lose
control and fall. Changing suspension adjustment
can change the handling and braking characteristics
of you bicycle. Never change suspension adjustment
unless you are thoroughly familiar with the suspension system, manufacturer’s instructions and recommendations, and always check for changes in the
performance of your bicycle by taking a careful test
ride in a hazard free area. If your bike has suspension equipment, the increased speed you may develop
also increases your risk. When braking, the front of a
suspended bike dips. You could lose control and fall
if your skill is not up to handling this system. Get to
know how to handle your suspension system safely
before trying any downhill or very fast biking.
40
Page 48
2
3
1
Rear Pivots
The pivot assembly is a simple mechanism that allows
the rear triangle to move up and down in combination
with a rear suspension. Size, shape, and compounds
will vary between models; however, operating principles
1. Attaching Bolt
2. Bushing
1
2
3
3. Shaft
are the same. A shaft will pivot inside of two bushings
secured in place with bolts. Pivots should be kept clean
and free from grime and should be disassembled and regreased at least once every riding season. Please note
the drive side crank arm must be removed from the spindle before attempting to work on the pivot. Some models
have two, small (2.5mm) Allen bolts on the underside of
the bottom bracket shell. These must be removed before
attempting to disassemble the pivot. After disassembling
and cleaning, the shaft of the pivot assembly should be
lightly coated with lithium-based grease, as well as the
bushings and the threads of the attaching hardware.
Please remember: Never use WD-40™ to grease components. It is a degreaser that will not provide required
1
3
lubrication and has a tendency to attract dust.
1. Pivot Assembly
2. Bottom Bracket Cup & Lockring
3. Rear Triangle
41
2
Page 49
Saddle Bag
Reflector
Frame Bag
Reflector
Accessories
If your bike is supplied with a water bottle and cage, attach the
cage to the bicycle using the Allen bolts provided.
Some bikes come equipped with a saddle bag or frame bag.
The saddle bag installs under the seat with the zipper facing
the rear wheel. Undo the straps that wrap around the bag,
thread them through the rails underneath the seat and secure
around the bag. The smaller strap wraps around the seat
post. Frame bags install at the apex of the top and seat tubes.
Secure the straps around each tube.
NOTE: The frame bag straps must not bind the cables. The
straps must go around the frame only.
Reflector
Water bottle and cage
Tighten both rear wheel axle nuts or the
quick release mechanism securely. Failure
to do this may cause the rear wheel to
dislodge from the frame dropouts resulting
in serious damage or injury.
Other: Some 20” and 24” model bicycles come with a rear
derailleur guard to protect the rear derailleur from damage. To
install, remove the the rear wheel axle nut on the drive side,
install the rear derailleur guard over the axle with the U-shaped
guard pointing down, and retighten the axle nut. The guard will
sit between the frame and the axle nut.
Reflectors
Attach the white reflector to the front reflector bracket and
secure to the fork or handlebar using the hardware provided.
Attach the red reflector to the rear reflector bracket and secure
to the frame or seat post, depending on the bracket style, with
the hardware provided.
42
Page 50
figure 1
Fenders
Front Fender
The front fender is mounted at the fork crown. There are two
ways in which to mount your front fender. The first is the caliper
brake mounting system (see figure 1), and the second is the
10mm nut and bolt system (see figure 2). Identify the mounting
system used on your bicycle and follow the given instructions for
that particular type of mounting system.
1. Caliper Brake Mounting System
First remove the front wheel from your bicycle. Remove the
hex nut from the caliper brake bolt on the rear of the fork,
and slide the brake assembly from the fork. Place the fend er assembly onto the fork making sure the attachment holes
and fender bracket holes line up. Reattach the caliper
brake making sure that the brake arms are on each side of
the fender. Tighten the bolt until secure.
43
figure 2
2. 10mm Nut and Bolt Mounting System
First remove the front wheel from your bicycle. Place the
fender assembly onto the fork making sure the attachment
holes and fender bracket holes line up. Attach the fender
with the 10mm hex bolt and nut. Tighten the bolt until secure.
Page 51
figure 3
Rear Fender
The rear fender is mounted at the seatstay brace. There are two
ways in which to mount your rear fender. The first is the screw
mounting system (see figure 3), and the second is the 10mm bolt
and screw system (see figure 4). Identify the mounting system used
on your bicycle and follow the given instructions for that particular
type of mounting system.
1. Screw Mounting System
First remove the rear wheel. Place the fender assembly
between the stays, making sure the fender bracket holes
line up with those in the frame. Attach the fener by using
two screws to directly mount the fender onto the frame.
The mounts are located below the seat post and near the
rear of the crank. Tighten all screws until snug.
2. 10mm Bolt and Screw System
First remove the rear wheel. Place the fender assembly
between the stays, making sure the fender bracket holes
line up with those in the frame. Attach the fender by using
one screw to directly mount the fender onto the frame near
the crank. Next, use the 10mm hex bolt and nut to attach
the fender to the brace between the seat stays, near the
seat post. Tighten all bolts and screws until snug.
figure 4
44
Page 52
Final Check
- After all adjustments have been made, shift through every
gear several times at varying speeds. This will ensure all
your adjustments are correct and will allow you to pinpoint
any trouble areas. If you encounter any problems, refer to
the appropriate section and make any necessary adjustments.
- Check the tire pressure and inflate each tube to the recommended
psi as stated on the sidewall of the tire.
- Check that the kickstand operates smoothly and the
kickstand bolt is secured tightly.
- Finally, examine the bicycle. Make sure all accessories are
attached and all quick releases, nuts and bolts have been
tightened securely.
- Correct maintenance of your bicycle will ensure many years
of happy riding. Service your bicycle regularly by referring
to the relevant sections of this manual, OR take it to a
professional bicycle shop.
Remember: Always wear a helmet and obey all
traffic laws.
Never inflate a tire beyond the maximum
pressure marked on the tire’s sidewall.
Exceeding the recommended pressure
may blow the tire off the rim, which
could cause damage to the bicycle and
injury to the rider and bystanders.
Tighten both rear wheel axle nuts or the
quick release mechanism securely. Failure
to do this may cause the rear wheel to
dislodge from the frame dropouts resulting
in serious damage or injury.
45
Page 53
SINGLE SPEED & BMX
Includes 16" and 20" BMX Bikes
Assembly is the same for boy’s and girl’s bikes.
Stem Cap Binder Bolts
Stem
Bolt
Minimum
Insertion Mark
Stem Wedge
Head
Tube
Four Bolt
Face
Plate
Six Bolt
Face
Plate
Foreword: Assembling a bicycle is an important responsibility. Proper
assembly not only gives the rider more enjoyment of the bicycle; it
also offers an important measure of safety.
Getting Started
Open the carton from the top and remove the bicycle. Remove the
straps and protective wrapping from the bicycle. Inspect the bicycle and
all accessories and parts for possible shortages. It is recommended that
the threads and all moving parts in the parts package be lubricated prior to
installation. Do not discard packing materials until assembly is complete
to insure that no required parts are accidentally discarded. Assemble
your bicycle following the steps that pertain to your model.
Note: Your bicycle may be equipped with different style components than
the ones illustrated.
Handlebars
Remove the protective cap from the stem wedge and loosen the stem
bolt using the 6mm Allen key. Some models may use a 13mm
hexagonal bolt instead of an Allen key bolt. Place the handlebar stem
into the head tube, observing the minimum insertion mark on the
handlebar stem and ensuring that all cables are free of tangles. Check
that the fork and the handlebar are facing forward, and that they are
properly aligned with the front wheel. Tighten the stem bolt. Rotate the
handlebar to the desired position. Tighten stem cap bolt 1 (see picture)
two turns, tighten stem cap bolt 2 two turns and so on. Repeat until
handle bar is secure to the stem. See picture for a 4 or 6-bolt system.
Also check that the stem binder bolts are tightened equally and securely.
The handlebar must be inserted so that the minimum insertion
mark cannot be seen. WARNING: Over tightening the stem
bolt or headset assembly may cause damage to the bicycle and/
or injury to the rider.
46
Page 54
Seat
Loosen nut on the seat clamp and add 3 or 4 drops of oil onto the
threads of the bolt. Place the smaller end of the seat post into the seat
clamp until it stops with the bolt to the rear of the seat post. Thread the
nut on the seat clamp loosely. Insert the larger end of the seat post into
the seat tube of the bicycle frame observing the minimum insertion mark
on the seat post. Position the top surface of the seat parallel with the
ground. The serrations on the seat clamp must mesh completely with
the seat frame serrations, push the front of the seat up and down to align the
serrations. Securely tighten the seat clamp. Securely tighten the bolts on
the seat post clamp. Turn the bicycle upside down and rest it on the seat
and handlebars.
The seat pillar must be inserted so that the minimum
insertion mark cannot be seen.
Pedals & Crank Set
Look for the letters “R” for right, and “L” for left, stamped on each pedal
spindle. Start each pedal spindle by hand to avoid stripping the threads.
Tighten with a 15mm narrow open ended wrench. Note that the right hand
pedal attaches to the chainwheel side crank arm with a right-hand (clockwise)
thread. The left pedal attaches to the other crank arm and has a left-hand
(counter-clockwise) thread. It is very important that you check the crank set for
correct adjustment and tightness before riding your bicycle. New cranks may
become loose with initial use, refer to p. 83-86 for proper crank set adjustment
and maintenance. Once the pedals have been attached, check that the crank
arm rotates smoothly and that there is no lateral movement.
47
Attachment of an incorrect pedal into a crank arm will
cause irreparable damage.
Page 55
Retaining
Axle Nut
Washer
Axle
Cone Nuts
Fork Drop Out
Brake Lever
GripHandlebar
Hub
Nipple
Step
Retaining
Washer
Ferrule
Cable
Adjusting
Barrel
Front Wheel
1. Make sure the brakes are loose enough to allow the wheel to
pass through the brake pads easily.
2. Place wheel into fork drop outs.
3. Install retaining washers with raised lip pointed towards the fork,
and insert into the small hole of the fork blade. NOTE: Some bikes
may have step retaining washers in place of the retaining washer
(shown in dotted box). If so, install the step retaining washer,
raised portion sliding in to the fork dropouts.
4. Install axle nut and tighten. Make sure the wheel is centered
between the fork blades.
5. Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered and clears the
brake shoes. Tighten the brakes if necessary.
6. Turn the bicycle upright using the kickstand to support it.
It is very important to check the front wheel
connection to the bicycle. Failure to properly tighten
may cause the front wheel to dislodge.
Front Brake
Determine which type of brake your bike is equipped with and refer
to the appropriate assembly instructions. For more information on
brake adjustment and maintenance, refer to p. 77-80. A greater force
is required to activate the rear brake due to longer cable length. It is
advisable to mount the rear brake on the side of the stronger hand.
It is important to become familiar with the use of hand brakes. When
properly adjusted, hand brakes are an efficient braking system. Keep
the rim and brake shoes clean and free from wax, lubricants and dirt
at all times. Keep brakes properly adjusted and in good working
condition at all times.
Open the brake lever and place the nipple end of the short brake
cable into the lever, then close the lever. Secure the ferrule against
the lever using the cable adjusting barrel.
48
Page 56
Side Pull
Brakes
Brake
Arm
Fixing Nut
in Back
Cable
Adjusting
Barrel
Center Bolt
Cable
Anchor
Nut
Brake Shoe
Side Pull Brake
Loosen the cable anchor nut and thread the brake cable through it.
Tighten the nut by hand until it holds the cable in place. Squeeze the
brake arms together against the rim of the wheel. Loosen the nuts on
the brake shoes and turn until they match the angle of the rim. Tighten the nuts securely. Pull down on the end of the brake cable with pliers, hold taut and securely tighten the cable anchor nut.
Spin the wheel, the brake shoes should not contact the rim at any
point and should be an equal distance from the rim on both sides.
Make sure all nuts and bolts are securely tightened. Test the brake
levers 20-25 times to take care of any initial cable stretch. Be sure to
tightly secure the brake fixing nut behind the fork.
49
Cantilever
Brakes
Cable
End
2. Set the cable onto
the straddle holder.
1. Install the cable into
the cable carrier.
2
1
When assembling or adjusting the brakes, make
sure the cable anchor is tight. Failure to securely
tighten the nut could result in brake failure and
personal injury.
Cantilever Brakes - Utilizing a Link Wire
If fitted with cantilever type brakes, insert the brake cable into the link
wire lead, and notch the cable end into the slot of the left brake arm.
Loosen the anchor bolt on the right brake arm and slide the brake
cable under the tabbed washer. Squeeze both brake arms together
so the brake shoes hit the rim, pull all slack out of the brake cable,
and tighten the anchor bolt. With the cable fitted, the straddle holder
should sit 10-20mm above the reflector bracket. Adjust the brake
shoes using a 10mm wrench so that they are parallel with the rim and
are positioned 1-2mm away from the rim. Several adjustments may
be necessary to achieve the correct brake position.
Page 57
3
3. Temporarily tighten the cable so
that the link wire is at the position in
the illustration.
Link Wire
5. Secure one of the shoes at a time.
The adjustment of the shoe clearance is
not necessary at this time.
Shoe fixing nut tightening torque:
7.84 - 8.82 Nm (70 - 78 in. lbs.)
To u c h i n g
1
Cable Anchor Bolt
Spring tension
adjustment screw
Cable Casing Holder
2
4. Turn the spring tension
adjustment screw so that the link
wire comes to a position directly
below the cable casing holder.
1
2
1 mm
10 mm wrench
5 mm Allen key
6. If balance adjustment is necessary,
adjust with the spring tension
adjustment screw.
Cut off any unnecessary cable, attach an end
cap, and hook it onto the
1
2
notched part of the nut
which secures the shoe.
End cap
1
2
50
Page 58
Straddle
Cable
Brake
Pinch Bolt
Pivot
Cantilever Brakes - Utilizing a Straddle Cable
Brake Cable
Straddle Hanger
Straddle Cable
o
90
Cable
Anchor
Caliper Arm
The length of the straddle cable, the height of the straddle hanger,
and the brake pad-to-caliper arm position all have an effect on braking power. Generally, the straddle cable bridge is set low and close
to the tire for maximum braking force. The straddle cable should be
high enough, however, to adequately clear the tire (and any debris
that may stick to the tire) or to fit over the front reflector hanger. In the
event of brake cable failure, the front reflector hanger would prevent
the straddle cable from catching in the tire and locking up the front
wheel. The straddle cable length (when adjustable) is set to transfer
as much force to the brake pads as possible. For the most efficient
transfer of force, the straddle cable and the line between the cantilever
pivot and the cable anchor should form a right angle (90 degrees). If
the force is not at a right angle, part of the force gets wasted in pulling
on the brake post, which has no effect on braking.
51
Brake pad aligned with the rim surface Pad and rim should be parallel
1- 2 mm
Pad should be “toed-in”
0.5 - 1.0 mm
Page 59
V - Brake
If fitted with V-Brakes, insert the brake body
1.
into the center spring hole in the frame mounting boss, and then secure the brake body to the
frame with the link fixing bolt.
5 mm Allen key
Washer
Spring
hole
Stopper pin
Link
fixing
bolt
While holding the shoe against the rim, adjust the
2.
amount of shoe protrusion by interchanging the
position of the B washers (i.e. 6 mm or 3 mm) so that
dimension A is kept at 39 mm or more.
39 mm or more
A
3 mm washer B 6 mm washer B
Shoe fixing nut
Washer A
Shoe fixing link
Washer A
Washer
52
Page 60
While holding the shoe against
3.
the rim, tighten the shoe fixing nut.
Adjust the balance with the spring
5.
tension adjustment screws.
53
1 mm
Pass the inner cable through the inner
4.
5 mm Allen key
cable lead. Set the cable with a clearance
of 1mm between each brake pad and the
rim, tighten the cable fixing bolt.
5 mm Allen key
B C
B + C = 2 mm
1 mm 1 mm
Spring tension
adjustment screw
Depress the brake lever about 10 times as
6.
Spring tension
adjustment screw
far as the grip and check that everything is
operating correctly and that the shoe clearance
is correct before using the brakes.
Depress about
10 times
Page 61
Front U-Brake
Rear U-Brake
Option 1
Rear U-Brake
Option 2
U-Brakes
Begin by adjusting the pads of the U-brakes using a 10mm wrench. Make sure the
pad is hitting the rim and not the tire. Ideally the front of the pad should hit the rim
approximately 1mm before the rear pad.
Front U-Brake
Slide the brake cable and housing through the Housing Barrel and through the
cable anchor bolt. Set the cable clearance of 1mm between the brake pads and the
rim. Tighten the cable anchor bolt. All instructions shown are if you are looking at
the bike from the front. For brake adjustments, use a 13mm box end wrench and
a 5mm allen wrench. Loosen the 5mm allen bolt. For the drive side (left) of the
bike turn the spring tension nut with a 13mm box end wrench counter-clockwise to
increase tension on the spring. For the non-drive side (right), turn spring tension
nut with a box end wrench clockwise to increase tension on the spring. When the
desired tension is achieved hold the tension nut with the 13mm wrench and tighten
the 5mm allen bolt. The tension on each side should be equal so that the brake
arms move the same distance when the brake is activated.
Rear U-Brake
Option 1: Next, tighten the Cable Carrier to the brake cable approximately 20mm
from the brake arms when they are closed against the rim. Attach the Straddle
cable to the carrier. Hook cable end into the brake slot, pull excess straddle cable
through the cable anchor and tighten the cable anchor. Continue with “For Both
Options” below. Option 2: Place brake housing into the frame housing stops. Pull
brake cable tightly and thread across through the opposite cable anchor bolt. Tighten cable. Repeat for other side. Continue with “For Both Options” below.
For Both Options: For brake adjustments, use a 13mm open end wrench and a
5mm allen wrench and loosen the 5mm allen bolt. For the drive side (right) of the
bike turn the spring tension nut with a 13mm open end wrench counter clockwise to
increase tension on the spring. For the non-drive side (left), turn the spring tension
nut with a box end wrench clockwise to increase tension on the spring. When the
desired tension is achieved, hold the tension nut with the 13mm wrench and tighten
the 5mm allen bolt. The tension on each side should be equal so that the brake
arms move the same distance when the brake is activated. PLEASE NOTE that
some BMX frames have the U-Brake flipped and mounted below the seatstays. The
direction to tension the springs will still be oriented to how the picture is oriented.
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Page 62
Blake Lever™ Cable Installation
1. Slide the covering plate back towards the brake lever. (Figure
1). Squeeze the brake lever so the cable roller is exposed.
2. Rotate out the cable roller. Push the lower cable roller assem bly down towards the hinge assembly. The top plate should
not move.
3. With one index finger hold the top plate and with the other
index finger separate the lower cable roller assembly with the
top plate.
4. Insert the brake cable around the lower cable roller assembly.
Figure 1
Figure 2
(Figure 2). Reassemble the lower cable roller assembly with
the top plate. Be sure to pull the lower cable assembly up
away from the hinge assembly. Make sure the cable roller is
locked into place with the top plate.
5. Install the adjuster barrels into the proper slots.
6. Reattach the covering plate.
The rest of the assembly will follow the Rotor assembly procedures
(page 56, beginning at the Upper Cable Section, Part 2).
Check your Brakes
Press each brake lever to make sure that there is no binding and that the brake pads press hard enough on the rims to stop
the bike. The brake pads should be adjusted so they are 1mm to 2 mm away from the rim when the brakes are not applied.
Brake pads should be centered on the rim and the rear portion of each brake pad should be about 0.5 - 1.0 mm farther from
the rim than the front portion of the brake pad.
55
Do not ride the bicycle until the brakes are functioning properly. To
test, apply the brakes while trying to push the bike forward to make
sure they will stop the bicycle.
Page 63
Rotors
Some freestyle BMX bicycles come equipped with a detangler
system that will allow the handlebar to spin 360-degrees without
binding the cables. It is very important that this system is adjusted
correctly. Installation should only be done by a qualified bicycle
mechanic with the correct tools.
Upper Cable
1. First connect the barrel end of the upper cable to the
rear brake lever. Make sure the long cable casing is on
top of the short cable casing; otherwise, the upper cable
will have a twist in it.
2. Route the upper cable through the handlebars (below
the crossbar) with the short cable casing on the same
side as the rear brake lever.
3. Connect the upper cable to the upper plate by passing
the football ends of the upper cable through the threaded
holes in the upper plate and connecting them to the bearing.
4. Screw the adjusting barrels into the upper plate. Don’t
tighten the locknuts at this time.
Lower Cable
1. Slide the cable casing through the cable guide on the frame.
2. Connect the lower cable to the lower plate by passing
the football ends of the lower cable through the threaded
holes in the lower plate and connecting them to the bearing.
3. Screw the adjusting barrels into the lower plate. Don’t
tighten the locknuts at this time.
4. Connect the lower cable to the rear brake. Don’t adjust
the rear brake at this time.
NOTE: Check to make sure all 11 cable casing ends on
the upper and lower cables are seated correctly, and that
the spring tension of the rear brake is pulling the bearing down.
Adjustment
1. Screw the cable adjusters on the rear brake lever and the
upper cable splitter all the way in.
2. Screw the adjusting barrels in the upper plate in (or out)
to set the bearing for maximum travel. The bearing should
be as far down as it can go without resting on the lower
plate or the adjusting barrels screwed into the lower plate.
3. Use the adjusting barrels that are screwed into the
upper plate to make the bearing parallel to the upper
plate. Use a 10mm wrench to tighten the locknut on the
left adjusting barrel of the upper cable. Leave the right
adjusting barrel loose.
4. Screw the lower cable adjusting barrel into (or out of)
the lower plate until they are as close to the bearing as
they can get without touching it.
5. Screw the cable adjuster on the upper cable splitter out
until all slack is removed from the upper cable. Then
screw the cable adjuster out one more turn to raise the
bearing an additional 1mm away from the lower cable
adjusting barrels.
CAUTION: Don’t screw the cable adjuster on the upper
cable splitter out more than 8mm. Use the cable adjuster
on the rear brake lever if more adjustment is needed.
6. Check for bearing flop by placing the handlebars in the
normal riding position, then quickly rotate the handlebars
back and forth. Perform the following steps to eliminate
bearing flop.
NOTE: The bearing should never be allowed to rest on
the lower plate or lower cable adjusting barrels.
a) Screw the lower cable adjusting barrels out of (or
into) the lower plate until all bearing flop is eliminated.
b) Tighten the locknut of the right adjusting barrel on the
lower cable.
c) Rotate the handlebars 180 degrees and recheck for
bearing flop. If there is any bearing flop, use the “loose” adjusting barrels on the upper and lower cable to
remove it.
d) Repeat steps (6a) and (6c) until the handlebars can be
rotated 360 degrees without any bearing flop.
7. Finish adjusting the rear brakes.
56
Page 64
Barrel End
Failure to adjust correctly may result in
loss of braking power and personal injury.
Single Cable Casing
Cable Adjuster
Cable Splitter
Upper Cable
(long casing)
Upper Cable
(short casing)
Adjusting Barrel
57
Upper Plate
37mm + or - 1mm
Bearing
Football Ends
Lower Plate
Lower Cable
Locknut
Set for Max. Travel
Keyed Washer
Minimum 1mm (1/32”)
Locknut
Adjusting Barrel
Page 65
Non-Threaded
Axle Peg Assembly Instructions
Non-Threaded
First remove the axle nut from the wheel. There will be either
a retaining washer or a step retaining washer included. Place
this washer between the peg and the frame of the bicycle. Slide
the peg onto the axle, followed by a flat washer and lastly the
axle nut. Tighten the axle nut clockwise until the peg fits snugly
against the frame or fork. Repeat for all the remaining pegs.
Threaded
Threaded
This style of peg is threaded to fit the axle. Make sure the axle
nut is tight with a 15mm wrench. Place a screw driver through
the mounting holes of the peg and attach the peg to the axle by
turning clockwise. Tighten against the frame or fork for a snug fit.
Repeat for all the remaining pegs.
PLEASE NOTE: Not all axles are able to accept axle pegs.
Please consult the Pacific Cycle Service Department if you
have any questions. Some BMX bicycles come with two or
four pegs. If your bicycle is a Dirt Jumping style bicycle,
you will receive only two pegs. These are designed for the
front wheel. Freestyle bicycles come with four pegs, two for
each wheel.
58
Page 66
Option 1
Option 2
Training Wheels
There are two options when attaching the training wheels to
the wheel brace. Determine which option is used on your
bicycle and follow the given instructions for that option.
Option 1
First attach the training wheels to the wheel brace. Position
a washer on the shoulder bolt. Next, insert the shoulder
bolt through the wheel. Follow with another flat washer
then completely thread a hex nut onto the shoulder bolt.
Insert the shoulder bolt through the wheel brace and set the
washer on the shoulder bolt. Lock the training wheel into
place by screwing another hex nut onto the shoulder bolt.
Repeat for both training wheels.
Option 2
First attach the training wheels to the wheel brace. Insert
the shoulder bolt through the wheel. Follow with a flat
washer. Insert the shoulder bolt through the wheel brace
and set the washer on the shoulder bolt. Lock the training wheel into place by screwing another hex nut onto the
shoulder bolt. Repeat for both training wheels.
It is very important to check the training
wheel connection to the bicycle. Failure
to properly tighten may cause the training wheel to dislodge. Please contact
Pacific Cycle Service with any questions.
59
Page 67
C-Shape
Attaching Training Wheel Brace to Bicycle
There are two different braces used to attach the training
wheels to the bicycle: the C-Shape Brace and the Flat Brace.
Determine which brace was included with your bicycle and follow the given instructions for that particular brace.
C-Shape Brace
Remove the axle nut and washer from the rear wheel axle.
Place the brace stabilizer washer onto the axle and align the
washer so that the notch on the washer fits into the rear frame
drop out. Next, place the C-shaped wheel brace onto the axle
and replace the washer and axle nut. Tighten the axle nut
securely, making sure that the wheel brace stays in the proper
vertical position. The elongated hole on the wheel brace
allows the training wheel height to be adjusted for proper fit.
Flat Brace
Remove the axle nut and washer from the rear wheel axle.
Place the flat wheel brace onto the axle. Next place the brace
stabilizer washer onto the axle and align it so that the notch
fits into the rear frame drop out. Replace the washer and axle
nut. Tighten the axle nut securely, making sure that the wheel
brace stays in the proper vertical position. The elongated
hole on the wheel brace allows the training wheel height to be
adjusted for proper fit.
Flat
60
Page 68
Training Wheel Stabilizer Bracket
Your bicycle may include a stabilizer bracket to attach the training wheel to the bicycle.
First remove the nut and washer from the rear wheel axle.
Align the stabilizer bracket onto the brace. Align the brace and
stabilizer bracket on the wheel axle. Replace the axle nut and
washer, secure tightly. The elongated hole on the brace allows
for raising and lowering the training wheel to the proper height.
NOTICE: Not all bicycles will accept training wheels. If your
bike did not come stock with training wheels, please call Pacific
Cycle to help determine if after-market training wheels can be
attached.
61
It is very important to check the training wheel connection to the bicycle. Failure to properly tighten
may cause the training wheel to dislodge. Please contact Pacific Cycle Service with any questions.
Page 69
Rear
Reflector
(Red)
Pads
Front
Reflector
(White)
Final Check
Install any additional parts that are supplied with your bike.
NOTE: Your bicycle may be equipped with different style
components than the ones illustrated.
Reflectors: Attach the white reflector to the front bracket and the
red reflector to the rear bracket using an 8mm wrench or a Phillips head screwdriver. Attach the brackets to the bicycle using
the hardware provided. For some models, the front reflector bracket
will be mounted on the front brake assembly bolt that fits
through the fork. It is important to make sure all connections are
tightened securely and that the reflectors are properly angled.
Pads: If your bike is supplied with pads, wrap the foam inner
cushion around the appropriate bar. Place the outer cover over
the inner cushion and press the velcro together securely. Turn
the pad so the velcro faces the ground.
Chainguards: If not already attached, attach the chainguard to
the bicycle frame using the clamps provided. Secure in place
making sure the guard does not bind or get caught on the
chain.
Tire Pressure: Check tire pressure, inflate to the range
recommended on the tire sidewalls.
Pegs: There are many different types of pegs-too many to deal
with individually in this manual. Please see your dealer for specific information regarding peg installation.
Chainguard
Before riding, ensure all nuts, bolts and fittings
on the bicycle have been correctly tightened.
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Page 70
Correct routine maintenance of your new bike will ensure:
Every time you ride your bicycle, its condition changes. The more you ride, the more frequently maintenance will be
required. We recommend you spend a little time on regular maintenance tasks. The following schedules are a useful guide
and by referring to Part 5 of this manual, you should be able to accomplish most tasks. If you require assistance, we
recommend you see a bicycle specialist.
oil
lithium based grease
lithium based grease
lithium based grease
lithium based grease
lithium based grease
lithium based grease
lithium based grease
2 squirts from oil can
disassemble
disassemble
disassemble
disassemble
disassemble
disassemble
disassemble
Page 71
Schedule 2 - Service Checklist
Frequency
Before every ride
After every ride
Weekly
Monthly
Every Six Months
Yearly
Task
Check tire pressure
Check brake operation
Check wheels for loose spokes
Make sure nothing is loose
Quick wipe down with damp cloth
Lubrication as per schedule 1
Lubrication as per schedule 1
Check derailleur adjustment
Check brake adjustment
Check brake and gear cable adjustment
Check tire wear and pressure
Check wheels are true and spokes tight
Check hub, head set and crank bearings for looseness
Check pedals are tight
Check handlebars are tight
Check seat and seat post are tight and comfortably adjusted
Check frame and fork for trueness
Check all nuts and bolts are tight
Lubrication as per schedule 1
Check all points as per monthly service
Check and replace brake pads, if required
Check chain for excess play or wear
Lubrication as per schedule 1
Page Reference
67
77-80
66
66
20
63
63
90-92
77-80
73, 90
67
66
68, 74, 83
81
70-71
75-76
10
63
64
77-78
87
63
64
Page 72
Tools Required
1. Open ended wrench or ring
wrenches: 8mm, 9mm, 10mm,
12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm
2. Open end or pedal wrench 15mm
3. Allen key wrenches: 4mm, 5mm,
6mm, 8mm
4. Adjustable wrench
5. Standard flat head screwdriver
6. Standard Phillips head screwdriver
7. Standard slip joint pliers
8. Tire pump
9 Tube repair kit
10. Tire levers
Travel Tools
1. Spare Tube
2. Patch kit
3. Pump
4. Tire levers
5. Multi-tool
6. Change (phone call)
65
Page 73
WHEELS AND TIRES
Wheel Inspection
It is most important that wheels are kept in top condition. Properly maintaining your bicycle's wheels will help braking
performance and stability when riding. Be aware of the following potential problems:
•Dirty or greasy rims:
Caution: These can render your brakes ineffective. Do not clean them with oily or greasy materials. When
cleaning, use a clean rag or wash with soapy water, rinse and air dry. Don't ride while they're wet.
When lubricating your bicycle, don't get oil on the rim braking surfaces.
•Wheels not straight:
Lift each wheel off the ground and spin them to see if they are crooked or out of true. If wheels are not straight, they
will need to be adjusted. This is quite difficult and is best left to a bicycle specialist.
•Broken or loose spokes:
Check that all spokes are tight and that none are missing or damaged.
Caution: Such damage can result in severe instability and possibly an accident if not corrected.
Again, spoke repairs are best handled by a specialist.
•Loose hub bearings:
Lift each wheel off the ground and try to move the wheel from side to side.
Caution: If there is movement between the axle and the hub, do not ride the bicycle. Adjustment is required.
•Axle nuts:
Check that these are tight before each ride.
PART 5 - DETAILED MAINTENANCE
•Quick release:
Check that these are set to the closed position and are properly tensioned before each ride.
Caution: Maintain the closed position and the correct adjustment. Failure to do so may result in serious injury.
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Page 74
Tire Inspection
Tires must be maintained properly to ensure road holding and stability. Check the following areas:
Inflation: Ensure tires are inflated to the pressure indicated on the tire sidewalls. It is better to use a tire gauge
and a hand pump than a service station pump.
Caution: If inflating tires with a service station pump, take care that sudden over inflation does not cause tire to blow out.
Bead
Seating: When inflating or refitting tire, make sure that the bead is properly seated in the rim.
Tread: Check that the tread shows no signs of excessive wear or flat spots, and that there are no cuts or other damage.
Caution: Excessively worn or damaged tires should be replaced.
Valves: Make sure valve caps are fitted and that valves are free from dirt. A slow leak caused by the entry of the dirt can
lead to a flat tire, and possibly a dangerous situation.
Recommended Tire pressures:
The recommended pressure molded on the sidewall of your bicycle tires should match the following chart.
Use this as a general guide.
BMX
35-50 p.s.i.
MTB
40-65 p.s.i.
Road Touring
Road Racing
Hybrid/Crossbike
70-90 p.s.i.
110-125 p.s.i.
60-100 p.s.i.
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Lock
Washer
Axle
Lock Nut
Hub Body
Ball Bearings
Bearing
Cone
Washer
Axle Nut
Hub Bearing Adjustment
When checked, the hub bearings of either wheel will require
adjustment if there is any more than slight side play.
1. Check to make sure neither locknut is loose.
2. To adjust, remove wheel from bicycle and loosen the locknut on
one side of the hub while holding the bearing cone on the same
side with a flat open end wrench.
3. Rotate the adjusting cone as needed to eliminate free play.
4. Re-tighten the locknut while holding the adjusting cone in position.
5. Re-check that the wheel can turn freely without excessive side play.
How To Fix a Flat Tire
If you need to repair a tire, follow these steps:
Push tire bead
into the center
of the rim.
1. Remove the wheel from the bicycle.
2. Deflate the tire completely via the valve.
Loosen the tire bead by pushing it inward all the way around.
3. Press one side of the tire bead up over the edge of the rim.
Note: Use tire levers, not a screwdriver, otherwise you may
damage the rim.
4. Remove the tube, leaving the tire on the rim.
5. Locate the leaks and patch using a tube repair kit, carefully
following the instructions, or replace the tube.
Note: Ensure that the replacement tube size matches the size
stated on the tire sidewall and that the valve is the correct type
for your bicycle.
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6. Match the position of the leak in the tube with the tire to locate the possible
cause and mark the location on the tire.
7. Remove the tire completely and inspect for a nail, glass, etc. and remove if
located. Also inspect the inside of the rim to ensure there are no protruding
spokes, rust or other potential causes. Replace the rim tape which covers the
spoke ends, if damaged.
8. Remount one side of the tire onto the rim.
69
Remove tire bead from the rim.
Pull tire back onto the rim.
9. Using a hand pump, inflate the tube just enough to give it some shape.
10. Place the valve stem through the hole in the rim and work the tube into the
tire. Note: Do not let it twist.
11. Using your hands only, remount the other side of the tire by pushing the edge
toward the center of the rim. Start on either side of the valve and work around
the rim.
12. Before the tire is completely mounted, push the valve up into the rim to make
sure the tire can sit squarely in position.
13. Fit the rest of the tire, rolling the last, most difficult part on using your thumbs.
Note: Avoid using tire levers as these can easily puncture the tube or damage
the tire.
14. Check that the tube is not caught between the rim and the tire bead at any point.
15. Using a hand pump, inflate the tube until the tire begins to take shape, and check
that the tire bead is evenly seated all the way around the rim. When properly
seated, fully inflate the tire to the pressure marked on the sidewall. Use a tire air
pressure gauge to check.
16. Replace the wheel into the frame checking that all gears, brakes and quick
release levers are properly adjusted.
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Max. Height/
Minimum Insertion
Mark
HANDLEBARS AND STEM
Handlebar Stem
The handlebar stem fits into the steering column and is held firm by
the action of a binder bolt and expander wedge which, when tightened,
binds with the inside of the fork steerer tube.
When removing the stem, loosen the stem bolt two or three turns,
then give it a tap to loosen the wedge inside.
Lubricate by first wiping off any old grease and grime, then applying a
thin film of grease to the part, including the wedge, that will be inserted
into the frame.
The height of the handlebar can be adjusted to suit your
comfort preference.
If the stem is removed from the steering column, you will notice a
mark about 65mm up from the bottom with the words “max. height” or
“minimum insertion".
Handlebar Binder Bolt
Handlebar Clamp Bolts
Stem Bolt
Max. Height/
Min. Insertion Mark
Stem Bolt Wedge
Never ride a bicycle if the stem has
been raised so that the max. height/
minimum insertion line can be seen.
Warning: Over tightening the stem
bolt or headset assembly may cause
damage to the bicycle and/or injury
to the rider.
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Grip
Handlebar
Stem Bolt
Handlebar Stem
Stem Bolt Wedge
When re-fitting the stem, make sure the handlebars are correctly
aligned and tightened using the appropriate hex wrench or allen key.
Do not over tighten.
Test the security of the handlebar within the stem, and the stem
within the fork steerer tube, by clamping the front wheel between your
knees and trying to move the handlebar up and down, and from side
to side. The handlebar should not move when applying turning pressure.
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MTB Handlebar Assembly
Make sure
handlebars and
fork are facing
forward
Note, curved rake of
fork faces forward
Handlebars
The exact positioning of the handlebar is a matter of personal
comfort. For MTB bicycles, the bar should be approximately
horizontal, with the ends pointing back and slightly up. On BMX
bicycles, the handlebar should remain in an approximately upright
position but can be angled back or forward slightly for comfort. On
MTB and racing style bicycles, the handlebar is usually tightened in
the stem by a single allen key bolt or hexagonal bolt. On BMX style
bicycles there may be four clamping bolts.
Please note that if you need to replace the fork on your bicycle at any
time, please consult a qualified bicycle technician.
Never ride unless the handlebar clamping
mechanism has been securely tightened.
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Grip 7/8” Plastic Washers
Barrel Adjuster Cable
GRIP SHIFTERS
Grip Shift™ - Installation
1. Slide front Grip Shift™ assembly over left side of handlebar leaving proper clearance for handlebar grip.
If necessary, move the brake lever to accommodate Grip Shift™ and handlebar grip.
2. Rotate assembly until cable exits beneath brake lever with adequate clearance for brake lever movement.
3. Firmly tighten recessed clamp screw. Installation torque should be 20 in.-lbs.
4. Slide the two 7/8” plastic washers over handlebar. The washers prevent the grip from interfering with Grip Shift™ rotation.
5. Slide handlebar grip over handlebar. Thread the cable inner wire through cable housings and frame, and attach to
derailleur. Make sure that the cable is in the V groove at the derailleur attachment bolt. If trimming the cable housing is
necessary, be sure to replace the housing end cap.
6. Adjust indexing.
7. Slide rear Grip Shift™ over right side of handlebar and repeat steps 2 - 6.
8. Actuate front and rear brake levers to be certain of proper operation. If Grip Shift™ interferes with brake lever movement,
rotate brake lever or Grip Shift™. Check for proper brake lever operation again.
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Cables and Cable Housing
Cables and housing are one of the most overlooked parts on the bicycle. The first indication that
your cables and housing need to be replaced is an
increased amount of pressure needed to operate the
brakes or shifters. Before every ride, check that there
are no kinks or frays in the cables and housing. Also
check that the housing is seated properly into each
cable stop of the bicycle. It is recommended
that the cables and housing are replaced at least
every riding season to prolong the life of your bike.
Do not ride a bicycle that is not
operating properly.
good cable
fray
kink
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HEADSET
Inspection
The headset bearing adjustment should be checked every month.
This is important as it is the headset which locks the fork into the
frame, and if loose, can cause damage or result in an accident.
While standing over the frame top tube with both feet on the ground,
apply the front brake firmly and rock the bicycle back and forth; if you
detect any looseness in the headset, it will need adjustment. Check
that the headset is not over tight by slowly rotating the fork to the right
and left. If the fork tends to stick or bind at any point, the bearings
are too tight.
Standard Headset
Lock Nut
Lock Washer
Adjusting Cup/Cone
Note: If your bike is equipped with a threadless headset, please see
a qualified specialist for repairs and adjustments.
Adjustment
Loosen the headset top locknut or remove it completely along with the
reflector bracket, if fitted. Turn the adjusting cup clockwise until finger
tight. Replace the lock washer or reflector bracket and re-tighten the
lock nut using a suitable wrench.
Note: Do not over tighten or bearing damage will occur.
Always make sure that the headset is properly
adjusted and that the headset locknut is fully
tightened before riding.
Warning: Over tightening the stem bolt or headset
assembly may cause damage to the bicycle and/or
injury to the rider.
Ball Retainer
Top Head Cup
Bottom Head Cup
Ball Retainer
Crown Race
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Seat Fixing Bolt
SADDLE AND SEAT POST
Inspection
The seat fixing bolt and the seat post binder bolt should be checked
for tightness and adjustment every month. On removing the seat post
from the frame, you will notice a mark about 65mm up from the
bottom with the words “max. height” or “minimum insertion”.
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Micro Adjustable
Seat Post
Seat Clamp Nut
Standard
Seat Post
Seat Post
Binder Bolt
To avoid damage to either the seat post, the frame
or possibly the rider, the minimum insertion mark
must be inside the frame.
Lubrication
Remove the seat post from the frame and wipe off any grease, rust or
dirt. Then apply a thin film of new grease to the part that will be inserted
into the frame. Re-insert, adjust and tighten the seat post in the frame.
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Adjustment
As mentioned in Part 2, the seat can be adjusted in height, angle and distance from the handlebars to suit the
individual rider.
Saddle angle is a matter of personal preference but the most comfortable position will usually be found when the top
of the seat is almost parallel to the ground, or slightly raised at the front.
The saddle can also be adjusted by sliding it forward or back along the mounting rails to obtain the most
comfortable reach to the handlebars.
When fitting, position the seat post into the clamp under the seat and place it in the frame without
tightening. Adjust it to the desired angle and position, and tighten the clamping mechanism.
There are two types of seat clamps commonly in use. The most common employs a steel clamp with hexagonal
nuts on either side to tighten. The other type, known as a micro-adjustable clamp, uses a single vertically mounted
Allen head fixing bolt to tighten. After fixing the seat to the desired position on the post, adjust the height to the
required level and tighten the binder bolt.
Note that the type of binder bolt may be either a hexagonal bolt, an Allen head bolt or a quick release mechanism.
The operation of a seat post quick release mechanism is the same as for quick release hubs.
Refer to p. 27.
Test the security by grasping the seat and trying to turn it sideways. If it moves, you will need to further tighten the
binder bolt.
Note: Remember that the minimum insertion mark must remain inside the frame assembly.
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BRAKES
The correct adjustment and operation of your bicycle's brakes is extremely important for safe operation. Brakes should be
checked for effective operation before every ride. Frequent checking of adjustment is necessary as the control cables will
stretch and the brake pads will become worn with use.
Never ride a bicycle unless the brakes are functioning properly.
There are two types of hand operated bicycle brakes in common use: sidepull calipers and cantilever calipers.
Both utilize a handlebar mounted lever which controls a cable to operate the brake. Sidepull brakes are mounted to the
frame or fork via a single pivot point. Cantilever brakes use two brake pivot arms, each mounted on separate pivots on
either side of the frame/fork.
Inspection
Brake levers should be checked for tightness at least every three
months. They should be set in a comfortable position within easy
Brake Cable
Brake Arm
Straddle Cable
Cantilever Brakes
reach of the rider's hands, and must not be able to move on the
handlebar. Some brake levers make use of a reach adjustment screw,
which can be altered to the distance between the handlebar grip and
the lever, as required. The brake pads should be checked for correct
positioning and tightness before every ride, and the various bolts and
nuts at least every three months. Squeeze each brake lever to make
sure they operate freely and that the brake pads press hard enough
on the rims to stop the bike. There should be about 1mm - 2mm
clearance between each pad and the rim when the brakes are not
applied. The brake pads must be properly centered for maximum
contact with the rim. Replace the brake pads if they are over worn so
that the grooves or pattern cannot be seen. The brake cable wires
should be checked for kinks, rust, broken strands or frayed ends. The
outer casing should also be checked for kinks, stretched coils and
other damage. If the cables are damaged, they should be replaced.
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Some brakes have a quick release mechanism to allow easier wheel removal. Whenever you adjust the brakes,
make sure the quick release mechanism is in the closed position.
Never ride unless the quick release is firmly locked in the closed position.
Brake Lever
Brake Lever Housing
Cable Adjusting Barrel
Center Bolt
Brake Shoe
Side-Pull Brakes
Cable Adjusting Barrel
Lock nut
Fixing Nut
in Back
Cable
Anchor
Bolt
Lubrication
The brake lever and brake caliper pivot points should be oiled with
2-3 drops of light oil at least every three months to ensure smooth
operation and to reduce wear. Cables should be greased along
their entire length, after removing them from their casings, at least
every six months. Always grease new cables before fitting.
Adjustment - Sidepull Calipers
Minor brake adjustment can be made via the cable adjusting barrel, usually located at the upper cable arm. To adjust, squeeze
the brake pads against the rim, loosen the lock nut and turn the
adjuster Brake pad clearance should be a maximum 2mm from
the rim. When correct, re-tighten the lock nut. If the pads cannot
be set close enough to the rim in this manner, you may have to
adjust the cable length. Screw the barrel adjuster 3/4 of the way in,
squeeze the pads against the rim, undo the cable anchor bolt and
pull the cable through with pliers. Re-tighten the cable anchor bolt
and apply full force to the brake lever to test, then fine tune using
the barrel adjuster. If one pad is closer to the rim than the other,
loosen the fixing nut at the back of the brake, apply the brake to
hold it centered, and re-tighten the fixing nut.
Ensure the Brake fixing nut is secured tightly.
Failure to do this may cause the Brake assembly
to dislodge from the fork.
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2mm clearance
Fully Adjustable Brake Shoes
Parallel
Parallel
Curved
Adjustment
Washer
Curved
Adjustment
Washer
Some brakes have a special mechanism which enables you to set the
clearance on either side of the rim using a screwdriver. Brake pads
should finally be adjusted so that the leading edge of the pad makes
first contact with the rim. Some brakes have special curved washers
to allow this, but on less complex models it will be necessary to apply
a little force to the pad and its mounting.
Adjustment - Cantilever Calipers
Minor brake adjustment can be made via the barrel cable adjusters
which are located on each brake lever. To adjust, squeeze the brake
pads against the rim, loosen the lock nut, and turn the adjuster to pull
the brake pads closer to, or spread them away from the rim as required.
Brake pad clearance should be a maximum 2mm from the rim.
When correct, re-tighten the lock nut. If the pads cannot be set close
enough to the rim in this manner, you may have to adjust either the
length of the straddle cable or the length of the brake cable.
If the brakes use a separate brake cable and straddle cable, adjust
the straddle length by first screwing the barrel adjuster 3/4 of the way
in, then loosening the straddle cable fixing bolt, then pulling or pushing
the cable through the fixing bolt to adjust the length, and finally
re-tightening the fixing bolt.
Check that the straddle bridge is in the middle of the cable to ensure
even brake pad contact. Apply full force to the brake lever to test,
then fine tune using the barrel adjuster.
To adjust the brake cable length, loosen the brake cable fixing bolt on
the cable straddle bridge, adjust the length until the brake shoes are
the correct distance from the rim, then re-tighten and test.
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Tread Tread Worn Off
On some newer type cantilever brakes, the main brake cable
continues through the central cable carrier to an anchor bolt on one
of the brake arms. A shorter link cable reaches from the carrier and
the hook on the other brake arm. Adjustment of the cable length is
made after loosening the anchor bolt on the brake arm.
Usable Brake Shoe Worn Out Brake Shoe (Replace)
Align brake shoe with rim surface
Direction of rim
rotation
0.5 - 1.0 mm
Brake Shoe Holding Nut
Adjust the brake pad position so that it is parallel to the wheel rim
and so that the leading edge makes first contact. To do this, fit an
Allen key into the brake pad holding bolt, loosen the fixing nut and
adjust. Move the brake pad along its mounting post to alter the distance from the rim, and move the curved adjustment washer to alter
the angle of the pad.
On some models there is a spring-force adjustment screw on the
brake arm which allows further fine tuning of the brake shoe position.
Bicycles with cantilever brakes must be fitted with safety devices
to prevent a possible accident in the event of the brake control
cable or the straddle bridge becoming loose or breaking while riding. These are usually the reflector brackets, and must be fitted in
the front and rear. The bracket will prevent the straddle cable from
interfering with the wheel should the cable become disconnected
from the control cable. If the reflector brackets are not fitted in this
position, then alternative emergency cable safety stops must still be fitted.
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L = Left
Turn counter-clockwise
to tighten.
R = Right
Turn clockwise
to tighten.
DRIVETRAIN
The drivetrain of a bicycle refers to all parts that transmit power to the
rear wheel including the pedals, chain, chainwheel, crank set, and
freewheel.
PEDALS
Pedals are available in a variety of shapes, sizes and materials, and
each are designed with a particular purpose in mind. Some pedals
can be fitted with toe clips and straps. These help to keep the feet
correctly positioned and allow the rider to exert pulling force, as well
as downward pressure, on the pedals. Use of toe clips with straps
requires practice to acquire the necessary skill to operate them safely.
Inspection
Pedals should be inspected every month, taking note of the
follow ing areas:
- Check correct tightness into the crank arms. If pedals are allowed
to become loose, they will not only be dangerous but will also
cause irreparable damage to the cranks.
- Check that pedal bearings are properly adjusted. Move the pedals
up and down, and right to left, and also rotate them by hand. If
you detect any looseness or roughness in the pedal bearings then
adjustment, lubrication or replacement is required.
- Ensure that the front and rear pedal reflectors are clean and
securely fitted.
- Also ensure that the toe clips, if fitted, are securely tightened
to the pedals.
Never ride with loose pedals.
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Lubrication and Adjustment
Many pedals cannot be disassembled to allow access to the
internal bearings and axle. However, it is usually possible to inject
a little oil onto the inside bearings, and this should be done every
six months. If the pedal is the type that can be fully disassembled,
then the bearings should be removed, cleaned and greased every
six to twelve months. Because of the wide variety of pedal types
and their internal complexity, disassembly procedures are beyond
the scope of this manual and further assistance should be sought
from a specialist.
Never ride in traffic with fully tightened toe straps.
Pedal with toe clip and strap attached
Attachment
Note: The right and left pedals of a bicycle each have a different thread and are not interchangeable.
Never force a pedal into the incorrect crank arm.
The right pedal, which attaches to the chainwheel side, is marked 'R' on the end of the axle, and screws in with a clockwise thread. The left pedal, which attaches to the other crank arm, is marked 'L' on the axle, and screws in with a counter-clockwise thread.
Insert the correct pedal into the crank arm and begin to turn the thread with your fingers only. When the axle is screwed
all the way in, securely tighten using a 15mm wrench.
If removing a pedal, remember that the right pedal axle must be turned counter clockwise, i.e. the reverse of when fitting.
If replacing the original pedals with a new set, make sure the size and the axle thread is compatible with the cranks on
your bicycle. Bicycles use one of two types of cranks and these use different axle threads. Your bike may be equipped
with cranks that are a one piece design with no separate axle. These operate with pedals that have a 1/2"(12.7mm)
thread. Bikes equipped with three piece crank sets with a separate axle, left crank and right crank, use a slightly larger
9/16"(14mm) thread.
Note: Never try and force a pedal with the wrong thread size into a bicycle crank.
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Cotterless Crank
Ball Bearing
Lockring
Adjusting
Cup
Fixed Cup
Axle
CRANK SET
The crank set refers to the bottom bracket axle and bearings, the
crank arms, and chainrings.
Your bike may be fitted with either a one piece crank, where the crank
arms and bottom bracket are a single component, or cotterless cranks,
where the crank arms bolt onto the bottom bracket axle without using
old fashioned type cotterpins. The one piece system is simpler and
requires less maintenance, while the cotterless system requires a little
extra care.
Never ride your bike if the cotterless cranks are loose.
This may be dangerous and will damage the crank
arms beyond repair.
Inspection
The crank set should be checked for correct adjustment and tightness
every month. Cotterless crank axle nuts must be kept tight, and the
bottom bracket bearings must be properly adjusted.
Remove the chain and try to move the cranks from side to side with
your hands. The cranks should not move on the axle, and there
should be only very slight movement in the bottom bracket. Next,
spin the cranks. If they don't spin freely without grinding noise, then
adjustment or lubrication will be needed. Also check that there are no
broken teeth on the chainrings, and wipe off excess dirt and grease
that may have built up on them.
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Standard Bottom Bracket Assembly (Cotterless)
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Lubrication and Adjustment - One Piece Cranks
To adjust the free play in a one piece type bottom bracket, loosen the locknut on the left side by turning it clockwise
and tighten the adjusting cone counter-clockwise using a screwdriver in the slot. When correctly adjusted, re-tighten
the locknut counter-clockwise.
To disassemble:
1. Remove the chain from the chainwheel.
2. Remove the left pedal by turning the spindle clockwise.
3. Remove the left side locknut by turning it clockwise and remove the keyed lockwasher.
4. Remove the adjusting cone by turning it clockwise with a screwdriver.
5. Remove the left ball retainer, slide the crank assembly out of the frame to the right, and remove the right ball retainer.
Clean and inspect all bearing surfaces and ball retainers, and replace any damaged parts. Pack the ball bearing
retainers with grease, then re-assemble in the reverse of the above procedure.
Crank
Chainwheel
Fixed Cone
Bearing Cup
Ball Retainer
Bearing Cup
Locknut
Lockwasher
Adjusting Cone
Ball Retainer
One Piece Crank Assembly
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Bottom Bracket
Lubrication and Adjustment
- Cotterless Cranks
To adjust the free play in a three piece type bottom bracket, loosen
the lockring on the left side by turning it counter-clockwise, then turn
the adjusting cup as required. Re-tighten the lockring taking care not
to alter the cup adjustment.
85
Bottom Bracket
Shell
Fixed Cup
Axle
Cotterless Crank removing tool
Ball Retainer
Adjusting Cup
Lockring
Remove the dust cap.
Loosen and remove
the flange nut.
To disassemble:
1. Remove the cranks from the axle.
2. Remove the left side lockring by turning it counter-clockwise.
3. Remove the adjusting cup by turning it counter-clockwise.
4. Remove the left ball retainer and slide the axle out of the frame to
the left.
5. Remove the right side fixed cup by turning it counter-clockwise and
remove the right ball retainer. Clean and inspect all bearing surfaces
and ball retainers, and replace any damaged parts. Pack the ball
bearing retainers with grease, then re-assemble in reverse of
the above procedure.
Cotterless Crank Removal
To remove cotterless cranks use the following procedure.
Note that a special tool will be required.
1. Remove the dust cap with a coin or screwdriver.
2. Loosen the flange nut or bolt and washer, and remove.
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Screw in the removal tool.
Turn the screw bolt
clockwise.
3. Screw the removing tool into the crank and tighten.
4. Turn the screw bolt down until the crank comes away from
the axle.
Cotterless Crank Replacement:
1. Replace the crank arm onto the axle.
2. Tap the crank arm lightly with a mallet.
3. Refit the washer and tighten flange nut or bolt securely to a
torque of 27Nm.
4. Replace the dust cover
Position the crank on the axle.
Lightly tap the crank
onto the axle.
Tighten the flange nut.
Replace the dust cap.
Adjustment After Use:
1. Remove dust cap.
2. Tap the crank arm lightly with a mallet.
3. Re-tighten the flange nuts, and refit the dust caps.
New cotterless cranks may become loose with initial
use. Perform the following task after several hours of
riding, and repeat it two or three times after further
use. Cranks should then remain tight.
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Rear Sprocket Front Chainwheel
Pull up
CHAIN
Inspection
The chain must be kept clean, rust free and frequently lubricated in
order to extend its life as long as possible. It will require replacement
if it stretches, breaks, or causes inefficient gear shifting. Make sure
that there are no stiff links, they must all move freely.
87
10 mm
Straightedge
Lubrication
The chain should be lubricated with light oil at least every month, or after use in wet, muddy, or dusty conditions.
Take care to wipe off excess oil, and not to get oil on the tires or rim braking surfaces.
Adjustment and Replacement
On derailleur geared bicycles the rear derailleur automatically tensions the chain.
To adjust the chain on single speed freewheel, coaster hub braked or 3-speed hub geared bicycles:
1. Loosen the rear axle nuts (and coaster brake arm clip if fitted) and move the wheel forward to loosen, or backward to
tighten, in the frame.
2. When correctly adjusted, the chain should have approximately 10mm of vertical movement when checked in the center
between the chainwheel and rear sprocket. Center the wheel in the frame and re-tighten the axle nuts after any
adjustment. Bicycles which have a single speed freewheel, coaster hub brake or 3-speed hub, generally use a wider
type chain than derailleur geared bicycles. These chains can be disconnected by way of a special U-shape joining link,
that can be pried off of the master link with a screwdriver. To replace, feed the chain around the chainwheel and rear
sprocket, fit the master link into the rollers into each end of the chain, position the master link side plate, and slip on the
U-shaped snap-on plate. Make sure the open end of the U-shaped plate is trailing as the link approaches the
chainwheel when pedaling forward.
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Chain Rivet Tool
Derailleur geared bicycles use narrower chains and require a
special tool to fit and remove chain links, or to change the length.
To remove, fit the rivet tool so that the punch pin is centered over
any one of the chain rivets. Push the rivet almost all the way out,
then back out the punch and remove the tool. Holding the chain
on both sides of the punched rivet, bend it slightly to release
link from the rivet. To install, feed chain around chainwheel, rear
sprocket and derailleur cage with rivet facing away from the bicycle.
Bring the two ends together within the special tool and punch the
rivet into place. Be sure not to push rivet too far through side plate.
FREEWHEEL
Inspection
Like the chain, the freewheel must be kept clean and well
lubricated. If the chain has become worn and needs replacing,
then it is likely that the freewheel will also have become worn and
should also be replaced. Take the chain off the freewheel and
rotate it with your hand. If you hear a grinding noise or the
freewheel stops suddenly after spinning it, it may need adjustment
or replacement. Such action is beyond the scope of this manual
and you should consult a specialist.
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Brake Arm Clip
Brake Arm
Sprocket
Lubrication
Remove any accumulated dirt from the freewheel with a brush
and a degreaser. Disassembly of the freewheel is a complicated
procedure requiring special tools, and should be left to a
specialist. Apply oil to the freewheel whenever you lubricate the
chain, taking care to wipe off any excess.
COASTER HUB
Many BMX style and other children's bicycles are fitted with a
coaster hub brake in the rear wheel. This type of brake offers
the advantages of reliability and easy operation. The brake is
operated by applying back pedal pressure and allows the rider
to 'coast' without pedaling, if desired. There are several models
of coaster hubs available, and the internal mechanisms are very
complex. They require infrequent attention as far as lubrication, adjustment or replacement of internal parts; if needed, this
should be left to a specialist.
Keep the coaster hub sprocket clean and oil it along with the chain.
Make sure the brake arm is correctly attached to
the chainstay with the brake arm clip. The brake
will not operate otherwise.
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DERAILLEUR SYSTEMS
The derailleur system includes the front and rear derailleurs, the shift levers, and the derailleur control cables, all of which
must function correctly for smooth gear shifting to occur. There are several different types of derailleur systems but all
operate using similar principles. Your new bicycle may be fitted with a standard 'friction' type system where you will need
to feel each gear shift into position. It may be fitted with an ‘index’ system (e.g. SIS) which links each different gear position
to a positive click mechanism in the shifter, and makes shifting very simple and precise. A further development of SIS is
the fully integrated system (e.g. STI) where the shift lever and brake lever mechanisms form an integrated unit with the
system allowing both gear shifting and braking to occur at the same time.
Inspection
Pre-stretch the derailleur
cables to remove slack
Stretch
The operation of the derailleur system should be checked at
least every month. Check the operation of the rear derailleur
first, then the front. The rear derailleur should shift the chain
cleanly from one cog to the next without hesitation. On SIS
equipped bicycles, each notched position in the shifter must
equate to a new gear position. After shifting, the rear derailleur
should not rub on the chain. The derailleur should never cause
the chain to fall off the inner or outer freewheel cogs.
The front derailleur should also shift the chain cleanly and
without hesitation between each chainring. If your bicycle is
equipped with front SIS, then each click or stop in the shifter
should equate exactly to a new gear position. When the chain
has been positioned onto a new chainring, it should not rub
on the front derailleur. The chain should not fall off a chainring
at any time. Derailleur control cables are a critical component
that must be well maintained for accurate shifting performance.
Check them for any sign of rust, fraying, kinks, broken strands
and any damage to the cable housing. If you find any
problems, the cables may need replacing before you ride.
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Page 98
Freewheel
Outer side of Top Gear
Pulley Adjustment
Screw
Lubrication
All the pivoting points of the front and rear derailleurs should be
lubricated with light oil at least every month. Be sure to wipe off any
excess oil to prevent attraction of dirt into the mechanisms. The shifting cables should be cleaned and re-coated with a thin layer of grease
every six months, or whenever new cables are being installed.
91
Guide Pulley
Tension Pulley
High Gear
Adjustment Screw
Low Gear
Adjustment Screw
SIS Cable
Adjuster
SIS Cable Adjuster
Rear Derailleur Rear View
Rear Derailleur Side View
Adjustment
Screws
Adjustment - Rear Derailleur
The Low limit screw determines how far the rear derailleur will travel toward the
wheel of the bicycle, while the High limit screw determines how far the cage will
travel toward the frame.
1. Shift the rear shifter to the largest number indicated, disconnect the
rear derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt and place the chain
on the smallest sprocket.
2. Adjust the High limit screw so the chain and the smallest sprocket
are lined up vertically. Remove any slack in the cable by pulling it
taut, then re-connect the cable and tighten the cable anchor bolt securely.
3. Shift up through the gears making sure that each gear is achieved quietly
and without hesitation.
If noise occurs, use the barrel adjuster to fine-tune the cable tension.
Turning the barrel adjuster clockwise will decrease cable tension and
allow the derailleur cage to move farther away from the bicycle in small
increments. Turning counter-clockwise will increase cable tension and
bring the cage closer to the bicycle. This will micro-adjust the positioning
of the derailleur cage in relation to the freewheel. Simply put; turn the
barrel adjuster the direction you want the chain to go.
4. Shift the chain onto the largest sprocket; adjust the low limit screw so the
chain and the largest cog are lined up vertically. If you are unable to get
the chain to the largest cog, turning the Low limit screw counter-clockwise
will enable the chain to move towards the wheel.
5. Shift through the gears ensuring each gear is achieved quietly and without
hesitation.
NOTE: It may take several adjustments to achieve the desired positioning.
Please refer to the troubleshooting section for more assistance.
Page 99
Cable Fixing Bolt
Outer Chainguide
Inner Chainguide
Low Adjusting Screw
High Adjusting
Screw
Chainguide
clearance of
1-3 mm
Adjustment - Front Derailleur
1. Shift the rear shifter to the smallest number indicated, then shift
the front shifter to the smallest number indicated. Disconnect the
front derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt and place the
chain on the smallest chainwheel.
2. Make sure the front derailleur cage is parallel with the outer
chainwheel on the crankset. There must be a 1-3mm gap between
the bottom of the derailleur cage and the top of the outer chainwheel
teeth to ensure the derailleur will clear the chainwheel when shifting.
3. Adjust the Low limit screw so the chain is centered in the middle of
derailleur cage. Pull all slack out of the cable by pulling it taut, then
reconnect the cable and tighten the cable anchor bolt securely.
4. Shift the front shifter into the largest gear and pedal the bike so the
chain jumps to the largest chainwheel. If the chain does not shift
onto the largest chainwheel, you will need to turn the High limit
screw counter-clockwise until the chain moves to the largest
chainwheel. If the chain falls into the pedals, the High limit screw has
been turned too far. You will need to readjust the High screw
clockwise in 1/4 turn increments until the chain no longer falls off.
5. Shift through each gear ensuring all are achieved quietly and without
hesitation.
6. The barrel adjuster for the front derailleur is located on the shift
mechanism. Turning clockwise will decrease cable tension and
allow the front derailleur cage to move away from the bike, while
turning counter-clockwise will increase tension and bring the cage
closer to the bike. If you are experiencing problems shifting between
gears, use the barrel adjuster to fine-tune the cable tension.
NOTE: It may take several adjustments to achieve the desired positioning.
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Page 100
QUICK RELEASE LEVERS
It is important to check the quick release levers before every ride to ensure all connections are made properly
and securely. Periodically, disassemble the mechanism from the bicycle and inspect for any wear or damage
and replace if necessary. When reinstalling, it is very important to ensure the connections are made properly.
Please refer to page 29-30 for the appropriate assembly instructions.
REFLECTORS
Your bicycle is supplied with one front (white), one rear (red), two wheel (white), and two pedal (orange)
reflectors. These are an important safety and legal requirement, and should remain securely fitted and in good,
clean conditions at all times. Periodically, inspect all reflectors, brackets and mounting hardware for signs of
wear or damage. Replace immediately if damage is found. Please see pages 12-13 for more information.
93
Reflectors
Reflectors
Wear reflective clothing
when riding.
Attach a light to your
bike if you ride at night.
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