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IN 123 Rev. A 0799
Providing Exceptional Consumer Optical Products Since 1975
Customer Support (800) 676-1343
E-mail: support@telescope.com
Corporate Offices (831) 763-7000
P.O. Box 1815, Santa Cruz, CA 95061
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Orion
®
Observer™ 60 AZ
60mm Altazimuth Refracting Telescope
#9020
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Observer 60 Altazimuth Parts Diagram
Finder scope
Finder scope bracket
Finder scope focuser
Eyepiece
Eyepiece lock thumbscrew
Star diagonal
Focuser draw tube
Focusing knob
Altitude micro-motion knob
Altitude micro-motion rod
Altitude micro-motion
lock knob
Accessory tray bracket
Accessory tray
Optical tube
Dew cap
Objective lens
Altitude lock knob
Yoke
Azimuth lock knob
Tripod leg bolt
Tripod leg
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1. Terminology
Altazimuth Mount
A simple type of telescope mount that
allows the telescope to be moved in two perpendicular directions: up and down (altitude) and sideways (azimuth).
Altitude Micro-Motion
(or Slow-Motion) Control Atwo-piece
threaded rod that is anchored to the altazimuth mount and to
the telescope tube. Athumbwheel on the rod can be turned to
slowly lengthen or shorten its length, resulting in small
changes in the pointing altitude of the telescope.
Dew Cap
Reduces moisture buildup on objective lens; reduces
off-axis glare.
Diagonal
Diverts the light cone by means of a mirror or prism
to provide a more comfortable viewing angle (usually 90° or
45°). Diagonals are often used with refractor and catadioptric
telescopes, but not with Newtonian reflectors.
Eyepiece
The part into which you look. It contains a number
of lenses that together magnify the image formed by the telescope and allow your eye to focus on it. Eyepieces of different
focal lengths produce different magnifications.
Finder Scope
Aids in aiming the telescope. It is a small, lowpower refracting scope, usually with crosshairs, that rides
piggyback on the main telescope’s optical tube. Its wide field
of view greatly facilitates the location of target objects for
viewing in the main telescope’s eyepiece.
Focal Length
For refractors, the distance from the objective
lens to the point at which the light rays converge to the focus
point. The focal length of a refractor is a function of the curvature of the objective lens as well as on the type of glass it
is made of. Focal length is usually expressed in millimeters.
Objective Lens
The main lens system on the front end of a
refractor. It gathers light and brings it to a focus. The objective lens of this telescope consists of two glass lens elements,
which is called an achromat.
C
ongratulations on your purchase of a quality Orion telescope.
Your new Observer 60 AZ Refractor is
designed primarily for astronomical viewing, but can also be used for terrestrial observation (with the
recommended addition of an image-erecting diagonal prism).
If you have never used a telescope before, we would like to welcome you to amateur astronomy. Take
some time to familiarize yourself with the night sky. Learn to recognize the patterns of stars in the major
constellations; a star wheel, or planisphere, available from Orion or from your local telescope shop, can
greatly help. With a little practice, a little patience, and a reasonably dark sky away from city lights, you'll
find your telescope to be a never-ending source of wonder, exploration, and relaxation.
These instructions will help you set up, properly use and care for your telescope. Please read them over
thoroughly before getting started.
Table of Contents
1. Terminology ............................................................................................................................ 3
2. Parts List................................................................................................................................. 4
3. Assembly................................................................................................................................ 4
4. Aligning the Finder Scope ...................................................................................................... 4
5. Using Your Telescope............................................................................................................. 5
6. Astronomical Viewing ............................................................................................................. 6
7. Terrestrial Viewing .................................................................................................................. 7
8. Care and Maintenance........................................................................................................... 7
9. Specifications.......................................................................................................................... 8
WARNING:
Never look directly at the
Sun through your telescope or its finder
scope—even for an instant—without
a professionally made solar filter that
completely covers the front of the
instrument, or permanent eye damage
could result. Be sure to also cover
the front of the finder scope with aluminum
foil or another opaque material to prevent
physical damage to the internal
components of the scope itself as well as to
your eye. Young children should use this
telescope only with adult supervision.
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Optical Tube
The main body of the telescope, which houses
the optics.
Rack-and-Pinion Focuser
A type of focusing device that
employs a grooved “rack” and a meshing pinion gear to move
the eyepiece-holding drawtube in and out, thereby allowing
adjustment of the image focus.
2. Parts List
Qty. Description
1 Optical tube assembly, with altitude micro-motion
control rod attached
2 Altitude lock bolts with knobs
1 Altazimuth yoke mount assembly
1 5x crosshair finder scope
1 Finder scope bracket
1 25mm (28x) Kellner eyepiece (1.25" barrel diameter)
1 90° prism star diagonal (hybrid .965"/1.25")
1 Tripod accessory tray
3 Accessory tray screws with wing nuts and washers
3 Tripod legs
3 2-1/2" tripod leg bolts with wing nuts and washers
3 Tripod leg lock bolts
1 Objective lens cap
3. Assembly
Carefully open all of the boxes in the shipping container.
Make sure all the parts listed in the Parts List are present.
Save the boxes and packaging material. In the unlikely event
that you need to return the telescope, you must use the
original packaging.
Assembling the telescope should take only about 10-15 minutes. All bolts should be tightened securely to eliminate
flexing and wobbling, but only tighten them “finger tight” to
avoid stripping the threads. You may want to use the included metal screwdriver tool to keep bolts from turning while
tightening any wing nuts by hand.
During assembly (or any time, for that matter), DO NOT touch
any of the lenses of the telescope, finder scope, or eyepieces, or the prism of the diagonal, with your fingers. The
optical surfaces have delicate coatings on them that can easily be damaged if touched inappropriately. NEVER remove
any lens assembly from its housing for any reason, or the
product warranty and return policy are voided.
Refer to the figure on page 2 during assembly.
1. Screw a tripod leg lock bolt into the hole in the black cuff
on each tripod leg. Extend the inner section of each leg to
the same length before tightening the bolts. You can readjust the legs to a more desirable height later, after the
scope is completely assembled.
2. Attach the three tripod legs to the base of the yoke mount
by lining up the holes in the leg with the holes in the base
of the mount, then inserting a tripod leg bolt through. (The
hinged accessory tray bracket on each leg should be facing inward.) Thread on the washers and wing nuts
provided, but do not tighten them yet.
3. Stand the tripod and mount upright, and spread the legs
enough to attach the accessory tray to the three hinged
brackets. It can be oriented with the sides of the tray
directed either upward or downward. The brackets should
be placed underneath the tray. Use the three small accessory tray screws and wing nuts provided. Do not tighten
the wing nuts yet.
4. Now, with the accessory tray attached but not tightened,
spread the tripod legs as far apart as they will go, until the
accessory tray brackets are taut. Then tighten the wing
nuts of the accessory tray screws.
5. Next, tighten the wing nuts of the tripod leg lock bolts at
the base of the mount.
6. To install the optical tube in the yoke mount, slide the altitude micro-motion rod into its receptacle on the side of the
yoke. Then set the optical tube in the yoke, lining up the
threaded holes in the sides of the tube with the mounting
holes in the yoke. Thread in the altitude lock bolts with
knobs until the telescope is held securely.
7. Insert the small end of the star diagonal into the focuser
drawtube, securing it with the thumbscrew on the focuser
drawtube.
8. Then insert the eyepiece into the star diagonal and secure
it in place with the thumbscrew on the diagonal. (Always
loosen the thumbscrews before rotating or removing the
diagonal or an eyepiece.)
9. Attach the finder scope bracket to the optical tube with the
two round thumbscrews located near the focuser. It doesn’t
matter whether the bracket stem slants forward or backward.
4. Aligning the Finder Scope
Using a low-power finder scope, with its wide field of view,
makes it easy to locate objects for observing through the main
telescope, which has a much narrower field of view. However,
the finder scope and the telescope need to be aligned so they
both point to exactly the same spot in the sky.
Alignment is easiest to do in daylight hours. First, loosen the
azimuth and micro-motion lock knobs and the two altitude
lock knobs so the telescope can be moved freely.
Point the main telescope at a discrete object such as the top
of a telephone pole or street sign that is at least 1/4 mile
away. Move the telescope so the target object appears in the
very center of the field of view, when you look into the eyepiece. Now tighten the micro-motion lock knob (remember,
just “finger tight” so you don’t strip the threads), and slightly
tighten the azimuth and altitude lock knobs (so slight movement is still possible with light pressure on the telescope
tube). Use the micro-motion lock knob and slight sideways
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pressure on the main telescope tube to recenter the object in
the field of view, if it moved off center when you tightened the
lock knobs.
Now look through the finder scope. Is the object centered in
the finder scope’s field of view, i.e., on the crosshairs? If not,
hopefully it will be visible somewhere in the field of view, so
only fine adjustment of the three alignment screws will be
needed to center it on the crosshairs. If the object isn’t in the
field of view at all, you’ll have to make coarser adjustments to
the alignment screws to redirect the aim of the finder scope.
Once the target object is centered on the crosshairs of the
finder scope, look again in the main telescope’s eyepiece and
see if it is still centered there as well. If it isn’t, repeat the
entire process, making sure not to move the main telescope
while adjusting the alignment of the finder scope.
Check the alignment by pointing the main telescope at another object and centering it in the finder scope. Then look
through the main telescope eyepiece and see if the object is
centered. If it is, your job is done. If it isn’t, make the necessary adjustments to the finder scope’s alignment screws until
the object is centered in both instruments.
Finder scopes often come out of alignment during transport of
the telescope, so check it before each observing session.
One way to minimize any misalignment is to keep the finder
scope bracket tightly fastened to the main telescope.
Note that the image seen through the finder scope
appears upside down. This is normal for astronomical
finder scopes.
The finder scope can be focused by turning its rotating eyepiece.
5. Using Your Telescope
Choosing an Observing Site
When selecting a location for observing, get as far away as
possible from direct artificial light such as streetlights, porch
lights, and automobile headlights. The glare from these lights
will greatly impair your dark-adapted night vision. Set up on a
grass or dirt surface, not asphalt, because asphalt radiates
more heat, which disturbs the surrounding air and degrades
the images seen through the telescope. Avoid viewing over
rooftops and chimneys, as they often have warm air currents
rising from them. Similarly, avoid observing from indoors
through an open (or closed) window, because the temperature difference between the indoor and outdoor air will cause
image blurring and distortion.
It’s best, although perhaps less convenient, to escape the
light-polluted city sky in favor of darker country skies. You’ll
be amazed at how many more stars and deep-sky objects are
visible in a dark sky!
Cooling the Telescope
All optical instruments need time to reach “thermal equilibrium.”
The bigger the instrument and the larger the temperature
change, the more time is needed. Allow at least a half-hour for
your telescope to cool to the temperature outdoors. In very cold
climates (below freezing), it is essential to store the telescope
as cold as possible. If it has to adjust to more than a 40° temperature change, allow at least one hour. Make sure you are
not looking over buildings, pavement, or any other source of
heat, which will radiate away at night, causing “heat wave” disturbances that will distort the image you see through the
telescope.
Aiming the Telescope
To aim the telescope, first loosen both the azimuth and micromotion lock knobs, and slightly loosen the altitude lock knobs.
Aim the telescope at the object you wish to observe by first
“eyeballing” along the length of the telescope tube. Then look
through the (aligned) finder scope and move the telescope
tube until the object is visible in the finder scope. Center it on
the finder’s crosshairs. Then tighten the lock bolts. You
should now be able to see the object in the main telescope
using a low-power eyepiece. (Always use the lowest-power
eyepiece available for locating an object, then you can switch
up to higher powers if desired.)
Fine adjustments of the telescope’s vertical position can be
made by rotating the altitude micro-motion knob. Fine adjustments in the azimuth position can be made by applying slight
sideways pressure to the back end of the telescope (make
sure the azimuth lock knob is slightly loosened) to turn it.
Note that the altitude micro-motion knob has a limited range
of movement. If it reaches the end of its travel, loosen the
micro-motion lock knob and rotate the micro-motion knob
back a few turns, then retighten the lock knob.
Focusing the Telescope
Practice focusing the telescope in the daytime before using it
for the first time at night. Start by positioning the focuser near
the center of its adjustment range. Insert an eyepiece into the
focuser and secure with the thumbscrew. Point the telescope
at a distant subject and get it in the field of view. Now, slowly
rotate one of the focusing knobs until the object comes into
sharp focus. Go a little bit beyond sharp focus until the image
just starts to blur again, then reverse the rotation of the knob,
just to make sure you hit the exact focus point. The telescope
can only focus on objects at least 50 to 100 feet away. It will
not focus without the star diagonal in place.
As with all refractor telescopes used with a standard 90° star
diagonal, the image you see will be right-side up, but
reversed left-to-right. (Correct-image diagonals are available,
and may be purchased separately, though the image quality
is slightly reduced.)
Do You Wear Eyeglasses?
If you wear eyeglasses, you may be able to keep them on
while you observe, if your eyepieces have enough “eye relief”
to allow you to see the whole field of view. You can try this by
looking through the eyepiece first with your glasses on and
then with them off, and see if the glasses restrict the view to
only a portion of the full field. If they do, you can easily
observe with your glasses off by just refocusing the telescope
the needed amount.
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Eyepiece Selection
Always start viewing with your lowest-power, widest-field
eyepiece. After you’ve located and looked at the object with a
low-power eyepiece, switch to a higher-power eyepiece and
see if the object looks better or worse. Keep in mind that at
higher power, an image will always be fainter and less sharp
(this is a fundamental law of optics). Many viewers use the
lowest-power eyepiece practically all the time! Naturally, higher magnifications are desirable for viewing some celestial
objects, but stay with low powers when searching for an
object and for extended viewing.
To calculate the power, or magnification, of a telescope,
divide the focal length of the telescope by the focal length of
the eyepiece being used:
Magnification = Telescope F.L.
Eyepiece F.L.
For example, if you’re using this telescope, which has a focal
length of 700mm, with a 25mm eyepiece, the power would be
700 ÷ 25 = 28x
We recommend having a selection of several eyepieces of
different focal lengths, so you can choose the optimal magnification, brightness level, and contrast for each object and for
different observing conditions.
Useful Limit of Magnification
Every telescope has a useful limit of power of about 45x-60x
per inch of aperture (diameter of objective lens). Claims of
higher power by some telescope manufacturers are a misleading advertising gimmick and should be dismissed. The
Observer 60mm Altazimuth Refractor, with its 60mm-diameter
(2.4") objective lens, is capable of a maximum useful magnification of about 140x. Any higher and the images will virtually
always appear very faint and fuzzy. As a general rule, if the
image you see is not crisp and steady, reduce the magnification by switching to a longer-focal-length (lower-power)
eyepiece. Asmall but well-resolved image will show more detail
and be more rewarding than a dim, fuzzy, overmagnified one.
6. Astronomical Viewing
Let Your Eyes Dark-Adapt
Don’t expect to go from a lighted house into the darkness of the
outdoors at night and immediately see faint nebulas, galaxies,
and star clusters—or even very many stars, for that matter. Your
eyes take about 30 minutes to reach perhaps 80% of their full
dark-adapted sensitivity. Many observers notice improvements
after several hours of total darkness. As your eyes become darkadapted, more stars will glimmer into view and you’ll be able to
see fainter details in objects you observe with your telescope.
To see what you’re doing in the darkness, use a red-filtered
flashlight rather than a white light. Red light does not spoil
your eyes’ dark adaptation like white light does. A flashlight
with a red LED light is ideal, or you can cover the front of a
regular incandescent flashlight with red cellophane or paper.
Beware, too, that nearby porch and streetlights and car headlights will hinder your night vision.
“Seeing” and Transparency
Atmospheric conditions vary significantly from night to night.
“Seeing” refers to the steadiness of the Earth’s atmosphere at
a given time. In conditions of poor seeing, atmospheric turbulence causes objects viewed through the telescope to “boil.” If,
when you look up at the sky with just your eyes, the stars are
twinkling noticeably, the seeing is bad and you will be limited
to viewing with low powers (bad seeing affects images at high
powers more severely). Planetary observing may also be
poor. Make sure you are not looking over buildings or any
other source of heat; that will also cause image degradation.
In conditions of good seeing, star twinkling is minimal and
images appear steady in the eyepiece. Seeing is best overhead, worst at the horizon. Also, seeing generally gets better
after midnight, when much of the heat absorbed by the Earth
during the day has radiated off into space.
Especially important for observing faint objects is good “transparency”—air free of moisture, smoke, and dust. All tend to
scatter light, which reduces an object’s brightness. Transparency
is judged by the magnitude of the faintest stars you can see with
the unaided eye (6th magnitude or fainter is desirable).
Tracking Celestial Objects
Celestial objects appear to move slowly across the sky
because of the rotation of the Earth on its polar axis. When
you observe an object through the telescope, you’ll see it drift
gradually across the field of view. To keep the object centered
in the field, give the tube a light tug or push in altitude and/or
azimuth as needed. Objects will appear to move faster at
higher magnifications, when the field of view is narrower.
How to Find Interesting Celestial Objects
To locate celestial objects with your telescope, you first need
to become reasonably familiar with the night sky. Unless you
know how to recognize the constellation Orion, for instance,
you won’t have much luck locating the Orion Nebula. A simple planisphere, or star wheel, can be a valuable tool for
learning the constellations and seeing which ones are visible
in the sky on a given night.
A good star chart or atlas can come in very handy for helping
find objects among the dizzying multitude of stars overhead.
Except for the Moon and the brighter planets, it’s pretty timeconsuming and frustrating to hunt for objects randomly,
without knowing where to look. You should have specific targets in mind before you begin looking through the eyepiece.
Start with a basic star atlas, one that shows stars no fainter
than 5th or 6th magnitude. In addition to stars, the atlas will
show the positions of a number of interesting deep-sky
objects, with different symbols representing the different
types of objects, such as galaxies, open star clusters, globular clusters, diffuse nebulas, and planetary nebulas. So, for
example, your atlas might show a globular cluster sitting just
above the lid of the “Teapot” pattern of stars in Sagittarius.
You then know to point your telescope in that direction to
home in on the cluster, which happens to be 6.9-magnitude
Messier 28 (M28).
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You can see a great number and variety of astronomical
objects with your Observer 60, including:
The Moon
With its rocky, cratered surface, the Moon is one of the easiest
and most interesting targets to view with your telescope. The
best time to observe our one and only natural satellite is during
a partial phase, that is, when the Moon is NOT full. During partial phases, shadows on the surface reveal more detail,
especially right along the border between the dark and light
portions of the disk (called the “terminator”) A full Moon is too
bright and devoid of surface shadows to yield a pleasing view.
The Planets
The planets don’t stay put like the stars, so you’ll have to refer
to charts published monthly in
Astronomy, Sky & Telescope,
or other astronomy magazines to locate them. Venus, Mars,
Jupiter, and Saturn are the brightest objects in the sky after
the Sun and the Moon. Not all four of these planets are normally visible at any one time.
JUPITER The largest planet, Jupiter, is a great subject to
observe. You can see the disk of the giant planet and watch
the ever-changing positions of its four largest moons, Io,
Callisto, Europa, and Ganymede. If atmospheric conditions
are good, you may be able to resolve thin cloud bands on the
planet’s disk.
SATURN The ringed planet is a breathtaking sight when it is
well positioned. The tilt angle of the rings varies over a period of many years; sometimes they are seen edge-on, while
at other times they are broadside and look like giant “ears” on
each side of Saturn’s disk. A steady atmosphere (good seeing) is necessary for a good view. You may see a tiny, bright
“star” close by; that’s Saturn’s brightest moon, Titan.
VENUS At its brightest, Venus is the most luminous object in
the sky, excluding the Sun and the Moon. It is so bright that
sometimes it is visible to the naked eye during full daylight!
Ironically, Venus appears as a thin crescent, not a full disk,
when at its peak brightness. Because it is so close to the Sun,
it never wanders too far from the morning or evening horizon.
No surface markings can be seen on Venus, which is always
shrouded in dense clouds.
MARS You probably won’t be able to see any surface detail
on the Red Planet, but you will notice its ruddy color.
Stars
Stars will appear like twinkling points of light in the telescope.
Even powerful telescopes cannot magnify stars to appear as
more than points of light! You can, however, enjoy the different colors of the stars and locate many pretty double and
multiple stars. The famous “Double-Double” in the constellation Lyra and the gorgeous two-color double star Albireo in
Cygnus are favorites. Defocusing the image of a star slightly
can help bring out its color.
Deep-Sky Objects
Under dark skies, you can observe a wealth of fascinating
deep-sky objects, including gaseous nebulas, open and globular star clusters, and a few of the brighter galaxies. Most
deep-sky objects are very faint, so it is important that you find
an observing site well away from light pollution. Take plenty of
time to let your eyes adjust to the darkness. Don’t expect
these subjects to appear like the photographs you see in
books and magazines; most will look like dim gray smudges.
(Our eyes are not sensitive enough to see color in such faint
objects.) But as you become more experienced and your
observing skills get sharper, you will be able to ferret out more
and more subtle details.
Remember that the higher the magnification you use, the dimmer the image will appear. So stick with low power when
observing deep-sky objects because they’re already very faint.
Consult a star atlas or observing guide for information on finding and identifying deep-sky objects. Some good sources to
start with are the
Mag 6 Star Atlas,Turn Left at Orion
, and
The Universe From Your Backyard
.
7. Terrestrial Viewing
Your Observer 60 may also be used for long-distance viewing
over land. For this application we recommend substitution of
an Orion 45° Correct-Image Diagonal (#8792) for the 90° star
diagonal that comes standard with the telescope. The correctimage diagonal will yield an upright, nonreversed image and
also provides a more comfortable viewing angle, since the telescope will be aimed more horizontally for terrestrial subjects.
For terrestrial viewing, it’s best to stick with low powers of 50x
or less. At higher powers the image loses sharpness and clarity because of unsteady air. That’s because when the scope
is pointed near the horizon it’s peering through the thickest
and most turbulent part of the Earth’s atmosphere.
And remember to aim well clear of the Sun, unless the front
of the telescope is fitted with a professionally made solar filter and the finder scope is covered with foil or some other
completely opaque material.
8. Care and Maintenance
If you give your telescope reasonable care, it will last a lifetime. Store it in a clean, dry, dust-free place, safe from rapid
changes in temperature and humidity. Do not store the telescope outdoors, although storage in a garage or shed is OK.
Small components like eyepieces and other accessories
should be kept in a protective box or storage case. Keep the
objective lens cap on the front of the telescope when it is not
in use.
Your Observer 60 requires very little mechanical maintenance. The optical tube is aluminum and has a smooth
painted finish that is fairly scratch-resistant. If a scratch does
appear on the tube, it will not harm the telescope. If you wish,
you may apply some auto touch-up paint to the scratch.
Smudges on the tube can be wiped off with a soft cloth and a
household cleaner such as Windex or Formula 409.
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Cleaning the Optics
A small amount of dust or a few specks on the glass objective (main) lens will not affect the performance of the
telescope. If dust builds up, however, simply blow it off with a
blower bulb, or lightly brush it off with a soft camel-hair brush.
Avoid touching optical surfaces with your fingers, as skin oil
may etch optical coatings.
To remove fingerprints or smudges from a lens, use photographic-type lens cleaning fluid and lint-free optical lens
cleaning tissue. Don’t use household cleaners or eyeglasstype cleaning cloth or wipes, as they often contain
undesirable additives like silicone, which don’t work well on
precision optics. Place a few drops of fluid on the tissue (not
directly on the lens), wipe gently, then remove the fluid with a
dry tissue or two. Do not “polish” or rub hard when cleaning
the lens, as this will scratch it. The tissue may leave fibers on
the lens, but this is not a problem; they can be blown off with
a blower bulb.
Never disassemble the telescope or eyepieces
to clean optical surfaces!
If you follow these simple instructions, your Orion Observer
60 AZ Refractor will provide you with years of enjoyable
exploration.
9. Specifications
Objective lens: 60mm-diameter (2.4") achromat, magnesium
fluoride-coated
Focal length: 700mm
Focal ratio: f/11.7
Magnification: 28x with 25mm eyepiece
Finder scope: 5x magnification
Diagonal: 90° star diagonal, prism type, hybrid .965"/1.25"
Eyepiece type: Kellner (three-element), fully coated,
1.25" barrel diameter
Mount type: Altazimuth yoke
Suggested Accessories
Correct-Image 45° Diagonal (#8792)
Explorer II Eyepieces (17mm #8154, 13mm #8151,
10mm #8152, 6mm #8153)
Moon Filter (#5662)
Rugged Nylon Telescope Case (#15157)
Orion Telescopes & Binoculars
Post Office Box 1815, Santa Cruz, CA 95061
Customer Support Help Line (800) 676-1343 • Day or Evening
One-Year Limited Warranty
This Orion Observer 60mm Altazimuth Refractor is warranted against defects in materials or
workmanship for a period of one year from the date of purchase. This warranty is for the
benefit of the original retail purchaser only. During this warranty period Orion Telescopes &
Binoculars will repair or replace, at Orion’s option, any warranted instrument that proves to be
defective, provided it is returned postage paid to: Orion Warranty Repair, 89 Hangar Way,
Watsonville, CA 95076. If the product is not registered, proof of purchase (such as a copy of
the original invoice) is required.
This warranty does not apply if, in Orion’s judgment, the instrument has been abused, mishandled, or modified, nor does it apply to normal wear and tear. This warranty gives you
specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights, which vary from state to state. For
further warranty service information, contact: Customer Service Department, Orion Telescopes
& Binoculars, P. O. Box 1815, Santa Cruz, CA 95061; (800) 676-1343.
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