IN 164 Rev.A
Providing Exceptional Consumer Optical Products Since 1975
Customer Support (800) 676-1343
E-mail: support@telescope.com
Corporate Offices (831) 763-7000
P.O. Box 1815, Santa Cruz, CA 95061
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Orion
®
SkyQuest™ XT4.5
Dobsonian Reflector
#9804
2
Welcome to an exciting new world of adventure! Your SkyQuest XT4.5 Dobsonian is a high-quality opti-
cal instrument designed to bring you dazzling views of the outer reaches of our universe. Easy enough for
kids to use, and portable enough for anyone to carry, the SkyQuest XT4.5 will provide fun and entertainment for the entire family. Whether you are brand-new to amateur astronomy or a seasoned stargazer, get
ready for many evenings of enjoyment and fascination. Before venturing into the night with your new telescope, we recommend that you read through this instruction manual. Not only does it provide accurate
directions for assembly and use, but it also serves as a guide for your first explorations in the sky. It is not
necessary to immediately read the appendix sections at the end of the manual; they contain detailed information regarding aligning and cleaning the telescope’s optics, which should not be needed initially.
Secondary mirror
holder with 4-vane
spider (not visible)
Focuser
Navigation Knob
Altitude Side
Bearing
CorrecTension
system
Eyepiece rack
Finder scope
Finder scope
bracket
Eyepiece
Carry handle
Primary
mirror cell
Plastic foot
Figure 1. The SkyQuest XT4.5 parts diagram.
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1. Unpacking
The telescope will arrive in two boxes, one containing the
optical tube assembly and accessories, the other containing
the unassembled Dobsonian base. Be careful unpacking the
boxes. We recommend keeping the original shipping containers. In the event that the telescope needs to be shipped
to another location, or returned to Orion for warranty repair,
having the proper shipping containers will help ensure that
your telescope will survive the journey intact.
Make sure all the parts in the Parts List below are present. Be
sure to check boxes carefully, as some parts are small. If anything appears to be missing or broken, immediately call Orion
Customer Support (800-676-1343) for assistance.
Parts List
Box #1: Optical Tube Assembly and Accessories
Qty. Description
1 Optical tube assembly
1 Optical tube Dust cover
1 25mm Sirius Plössl eyepiece, 1.25" barrel diameter
1 10mm Sirius Plössl eyepiece, 1.25" barrel diameter
1 Eyepiece rack w/mounting wood screws
1 6x26 Correct-Image finder scope w/O-Ring
1 Finder scope bracket
2 Spring coils
2 Pull loops
1 Collimation cap
4 Nylon spacers (black)
2 1/4" washers (black)
2 Phillips head screws (black, length 1-1/2")
Box #2: Dobsonian Base
Qty. Description
1 Left panel
1 Right panel
1 Front brace
1 Top baseplate
1 Ground baseplate
10 Base assembly screws
4 Trim caps (black)
3 Plastic feet
3 Feet attachment wood screws (length 3/4")
1 Self-adhesive rubber bumper
1 Large hex-head bolt (length 2")
2 3/8" washers
1 3/8" lock nut
1 Nylon spacer (white)
1 T-nut
WARNING: Never look directly at the
Sun through your telescope or its finder
scope—even for an instant—without
a professionally made solar filter that
completely covers the front of the
instrument, or permanent eye damage
could result.Young children should use this
telescope only with adult supervision.
Table of Contents
1. Unpacking............................................................................................................................. 3
2. Assembly.............................................................................................................................. 4
3. Using Your Telescope........................................................................................................... 6
4. Observing Tips...................................................................................................................... 9
5. Astronomy Basics ................................................................................................................. 10
6. Care and Maintenance ......................................................................................................... 13
7. Specifications........................................................................................................................ 13
Appendix A: Collimation (Aligning the Mirrors)......................................................................... 14
Appendix B: Cleaning the Optics...............................................................................................15
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2. Assembly
Now that you have unpacked the boxes and familiarized
yourself with all the parts in front of you, it's time to begin
assembly. The optics of the telescope are already installed in
the tube, so most of the required assembly concerns the
Dobsonian base.
Assembly of the Dobsonian base
Refer to Figure 2 during base assembly. The base need only
be assembled once. The assembly process takes about 30
minutes and requires a Phillips screwdriver, and an
adjustable crescent wrench. When tightening screws, tighten
them until firm, but be careful not to strip the holes by overtightening. Children under the age of 12 should work with an
adult.
1. Screw the plastic feet into the underside of the ground
baseplate (A) using the self-tapping wood screws provided,
with a Phillips screwdriver. Insert the screws through the
feet and thread them into the predrilled starter holes.
2. Loosely attach the front brace (B) to the two side panels (C)
with four of the base assembly screws in the predrilled
holes. The side panels should be oriented so the SkyQuest
labels are facing outward. Do not completely tighten the
screws yet.
3. Attach the two sides (C) with the front brace attached to the
top baseplate (D) with the remaining six base assembly
screws in the predrilled holes. Tighten all six screws.
4. Tighten the four side screws installed earlier. Press a trim
cap onto the heads of each of these screws.
5. Insert the white nylon bushing (E) into the hole in the center of the top baseplate (D). Tap the nylon bushing in so it
goes all the way into the top baseplate. The nylon bushing
should be flush with the top surface of the top baseplate.
6. Insert the T-nut (K) into the center hole of the ground baseplate (A) so the nut’s flanged top is on the same side of the
baseplate as the Teflon pads. Thread the large hex-head
bolt (G) with a 3/8" washer (F) attached up through the
ground baseplate and through the T-nut until it is tight.
7. Now position the top baseplate (D) (with side panels
attached) over the ground baseplate and lower it so the bolt
goes through the nylon spacer in the center hole of the top
baseplate. Now thread the remaining 3/8" washer (H) and
lock nut (I) onto the bolt’s shaft. You might need to hold the
bolt's head in place with another crescent wrench or pliers.
Tighten the lock nut with the wrench just enough to allow a
slight separation of the top and bottom baseplates when the
mount is lifted. The purpose of the lock nut is merely to keep
the two baseplates from coming apart when moving the telescope. Over-tightening the lock nut (I) will make the mount
difficult to rotate in the azimuthal (horizontal) direction.
8. The rubber bumper (L) provides a convenient “stop” for the
telescope’s altitude motion; it prevents the telescope mirror
cell from being knocked against the hard surface of the
base’s front brace. At the bottom of the interior surface of
the front brace, you will notice a small index mark
engraved. Remove the backing from the rubber bumper
and position the bumper over the index mark, as shown in
Figure 3. Press firmly so the adhesive holds the bumper
securely in place.
Installing the Eyepiece Rack
The aluminum eyepiece rack holds three 1.25" eyepieces in
a convenient place on the base, within easy reach while
you're observing. A 1.25" barlow can also be held in the rack.
Figure 2. Exploded view of the Dobsonian base.
C
C
B
D
F
I
H
L
E
G
A
K
Figure 3. Position the rubber bumper “stop” over the index mark on
the inside surface of the front brace.
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You can install the rack so that it can be removed, or you can
install it so it is permanently attached. About halfway down
the left side panel of the base you will notice two predrilled
starter holes, about 4" apart. Take the black wood screws that
come packaged with the rack and thread them into the starter
holes about three turns. Then you can “keyhole” the eyepiece
rack onto the wood screws and continue tightening the
screws. If you want to be able to remove the rack, do not
tighten the screws too tightly. Be certain that the screws are
loose enough that you can lift the rack and remove it from the
screws through the larger part of the hole. If you want to have
the rack permanently attached, attach the screws tightly.
(Figure 4)
Placing the Optical Tube on the Dobsonian Base
Lift the optical tube and set the altitude bearings on either
side of the tube in the “cradle” of the base. The tube will not
yet be properly balanced, since the CorrecTension system
has not been installed. Keep the tube positioned upright, as
shown in Figure 5, for now.
Installing the CorrecTension (XT) Friction
Optimization System
To install the CorrecTension assembly, follow these steps
while referring to Figure 6:
1. Put one of the black nylon spacers on a black Phillipshead screw. The spacer should be oriented so the narrow
end seats against the head of the screw. Slip one of the
black 1/4" washers over the end of the screw. Now, thread
the screw into the hole in the base side panel just below
the cradle. The screw will thread into the preinstalled insert
in the hole. Use a Phillips screwdriver to tighten the bolt.
Repeat this procedure on the opposite side panel.
2. Next, insert one of the screws with round plastic knob
attached through the end ring of one of the springs. Slip a
black nylon spacer onto the screw. Orient the spacer so
the narrow end is closest to the knob. Thread the entire
assembly into the hole with the brass insert in the telescope's altitude side bearing until tight. The end ring of the
spring should seat onto the narrow end of the spacer.
Repeat this procedure for the other altitude side bearing.
3. Attach a pull loop to the free end of each spring. Slide
the loop through the opening in the ring on the end of
the spring.
4. Now, pull each spring down using the pull loop, and position the spring’s end ring over the head of the black Phillips
screw (installed in step 1) and onto the narrow part of the
nylon spacer, as shown in Figure 7. You needn’t attach
both springs simultaneously; one at a time is fine.
The CorrecTension system is now installed and engaged. If
you wish to remove the telescope tube from the base, you
will first need to disconnect the springs from the “posts” on
the Dobsonian base. Remember to position the tube
upright before doing this, or the tube will fall over. The
springs will remain captive on the altitude side bearings, so
they will not get lost.
Installing the Finder Scope
The SkyQuest XT4.5 comes with a high quality, 6x26 correctimage achromatic finder scope. (Figure 8a) The “6” means it
magnifies 6 times, the “26” means it has a 26mm effective
diameter lens, and the correct-image means the image in the
finder scope will appear right side up, just like the view
through your naked eye.
Figure 4. Using the two supplied screws, install the aluminum
eyepiece rack in the predrilled holes about halfway down the left
side panel of the base.
Figure 6. Close-up view of the CorrecTension System.
Screw w/
round knob
Black nylon
spacers
1/4" washer
(black)
Pull loop
Spring
Altitude side
bearing
Phillips head
screw (black)
Figure 5. Set the optical tube on the
“cradle” of the base so that the altitude
side bearings on the tube rest on the
white plastic “pads.” Position the
telescope as shown so that it won’t fall
down before the CorrecTension System
is installed and engaged.
To place the finder scope in the finder scope bracket, first
unthread the two black nylon screws until the screw ends are
flush with the inside diameter of the bracket. Place the O-ring
that comes on the base of the bracket over the body of the
finder scope until it seats into the groove on the middle of the
finder scope. Slide the eyepiece end (narrow end) of the finder scope into the end of the bracket’s cylinder that does not
have the alignment screws while pulling the chrome, springloaded tensioner on the bracket with your fingers (see Figure
8b). Push the finder scope through the bracket until the Oring seats just inside the front opening of the bracket’s
cylinder. Now, release the tensioner and tighten the two black
nylon screws a couple of turns each to secure the finder
scope in place. The tips of the tensioner and nylon screws
should seat into the wide groove on the rear of the finder
scope’s body.
Slide the base of the finder scope bracket into the dovetail
holder on the top of the focuser. Lock the bracket into posi-
tion by tightening the knurled thumbscrew on the dovetail
holder.
Inserting an Eyepiece
The final step in the assembly process is to insert an eyepiece into the telescope’s focuser. Take the cover cap off the
end of the focuser drawtube. Loosen the thumbscrews on the
focuser drawtube and insert one of the eyepieces. Secure it
in place by re-tightening the thumbscrews.
The assembly of your SkyQuest Dobsonian is now complete.
It should appear as shown in Figure 1. The dust cap on the
front of the telescope tube should always remain in place
when the telescope is not in use. It is also a good idea to
store eyepieces in an eyepiece case and to replace the cover
caps on the focuser drawtube and on both ends of the finder
scope when the telescope is idle.
3. Using Your Telescope
It is best to get a feel for the basic functions of the SkyQuest
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Figure 8a: The 6x26 correct-image finder scope and
bracket.
Tensioner
Focus lock ring
Alignment
thumb screw
Figure 8b: Inserting the finder scope into the finder
scope bracket
b.
Figure 7: (a) To attach the spring to the base, grip the pull
loop with your index finger and pull down on the spring. (b)
While pulling down, slip the end ring of the spring over the
screw head and onto the narrow part of the nylon spacer,
then release the pull loop.
a.
XT4.5 during the day, before observing astronomical objects
at night. This way you will not have to fumble around trying to
orient yourself in the dark! Find a spot outdoors where you
have plenty of room to move around the telescope, and
where you have a clear view of some object or vista that is at
least 1/4-mile away. It is not critical that the base be exactly
level, but it should be placed on somewhat flat ground or
pavement to ensure smooth movement of the telescope.
Keep in mind that the SkyQuest XT4.5 was designed specifically for visual observation of astronomical objects in the
night sky. Like all Dobsonians, it is not well-suited for daytime,
terrestrial usage. This is due to the inverted images the
Newtonian reflector optics provide and the low eyepiece
height when pointed near the horizon. We recommend getting started during the day with the telescope, but remember
that this is not the intended use. If you find that you want to
do more daytime viewing of landscapes and vistas, you may
want to consider purchasing a spotting scope.
Remember, never point the telescope at or near the Sun
without using a proper solar filter over the front aperture!
Sit Down or Stand Up?
One of the great assets of the SkyQuest XT4.5 is its extremely portable size. Due to its overall short height, most adults
will find that observing while sitting on a chair or stool is most
comfortable. If wanting to stand, a sturdy table of appropriate
height will provide an adequate platform on which to place the
telescope. Other platforms, such as a milk crate, can also be
employed in order to achieve a range of eyepiece heights.
(Figure 9)
Younger children will find that the telescope is a perfect height
for them to use while standing; this is one of the reasons that
it is ideal for budding young astronomers.
Altitude and Azimuth
The Dobsonian base of the SkyQuest XT4.5 permits motion of
the telescope along two axes: altitude (up/down) and azimuth
(left/right) (see Figure 10). This is very convenient, since
up/down and left/right are the most “natural” ways that people
aim. As a result, pointing the telescope is exceptionally easy.
Simply take hold of the telescope (Figure 11) and move it left
or right so the base rotates about its central azimuth bolt, and
move it up or down so the altitude side bearings rotate in the
base’s cradle. Both motions can be made simultaneously and
in a continuous manner for easy aiming. Move the telescope
gently - let it glide. In this way you can point the telescope to
any position in the night sky, from horizon to horizon.
One of the unique features of the SkyQuest XT is the
Navigation Knob located underneath the telescope tube near
the open end. This knob makes for easy, smooth movement of
the telescope. You can use it to move the telescope in both the
azimuth and altitude directions.
You may find it convenient to hold your other hand near the
rear of the telescope tube to steady it while moving and aiming the telescope.
Focusing the Telescope
Insert the low-power 25mm eyepiece into the focuser and
secure with the thumbscrew. Move the telescope so the front
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Figure 9:(a) Many people find the SkyQuest XT4.5 convenient to
use while sitting. (b) You can use the telescope while standing by
placing it on a sturdy table. (c) If the table is too tall, try something a
bit shorter, like a milk crate.
b.
a.
c.
Altitude
Azimuth
Figure 10. The SkyQuest has two axes of motion: altitude
(up/down) and azimuth (left/right).
Figure 11: Try grasping
the telescope as shown
for easiest pointing. The
left hand uses the
Navigation Knob as a
“handle”, while the right
hand is on the rear of
the tube.
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(open) end is pointing in the general direction of an object at
least 1/4-mile away. Now, with your fingers, slowly rotate one
of the focuser knobs until the object comes into sharp focus.
Go a little bit beyond sharp focus until the image just starts to
blur again, then reverse the rotation of the knob, just to make
sure you’ve hit the exact focus point.
If you have trouble focusing, rotate the focuser knob so the
drawtube is in as far as it will go. Now look through the eyepiece while slowly rotating the focuser knob in the opposite
direction. You should soon see the point at which focus is
reached.
Viewing with Eyeglasses
If you wear eyeglasses, you may be able to keep them on
while you observe, if the eyepiece has enough “eye relief” to
allow you to see the whole field of view. You can try this by
looking through the eyepiece first with your glasses on and
then with them off, and see if the glasses restrict the view to
only a portion of the full field. If they do, you can easily observe
with your glasses off by just refocusing the telescope the
needed amount. If you suffer from severe astigmatism, however, you may find images noticeably sharper with your
glasses on.
Aligning the Finder Scope
The finder scope must be aligned accurately with the telescope for
proper use. To align it, first aim the main telescope in the general
direction of an object at least 1/4-mile away — the top of a telephone pole, a chimney, etc. Position that object in the center of the
telescope's eyepiece.
Now, look in the finder scope. Is the object visible? Ideally, it will be
somewhere in the field of view. If it is not, some coarse adjustments of the two finder scope alignment thumbscrews will be
needed to get the finder scope roughly parallel to the main tube.
Note:The image in the main telescope will appear upsidedown (rotated 180°). This is normal for reflector
telescopes (see Figure 12).Your finder scope is a correct
image finder, so the images will be right-side up.
With the image in the finder scope’s field of view, you will now
use the two alignment thumbscrews to center the object on
the intersection of the crosshairs.
By turning the alignment thumbscrews, you change the line of
sight of the finder scope. Continue making adjustments to the
alignment thumbscrews until the images in both the finder
scope and the telescope’s eyepiece are exactly centered.
Check the alignment by moving the telescope to another
object and fixing the finder scope’s crosshairs on the exact
point you want to look at. Then look through the telescope’s
eyepiece to see if that point is centered in the field of view. If
it is, the job is done. If not, make the necessary adjustments
to the finder scope alignment thumbscrews until the two
images match up.
The finder scope alignment needs to be checked before
every observing session. This can easily be done at night,
before viewing through the telescope. Choose any bright
star or planet, center the object in the telescope eyepiece,
and then adjust the finder scope alignment thumbscrews
until the star or planet is also centered on the finder’s
crosshairs. The finder scope is an invaluable tool for locating objects in the night sky; its usage for this purpose will be
discussed later, in detail.
Focusing the Finder Scope
If, when looking through the finder scope, the images appear
somewhat out of focus, you will need to refocus the finder
scope for your eyes. Loosen the lock ring located behind the
objective lens cell on the body of the finder scope (see Figure
8a). Back the lock ring off by a few turns, for now. Refocus the
finder scope on a distant object by threading the objective
lens cell in or out on the finder scope body. Precise focusing
will be achieved by focusing the finder scope on a bright star.
Once the image appears sharp, retighten the lock ring behind
the objective lens cell. The finder scope's focus should not
need to be adjusted again.
Aiming/Pointing the Telescope
Now that the finder scope is aligned, the telescope can be
quickly and accurately pointed at anything you wish to
observe. The finder scope has a much wider field of view than
the telescope’s eyepiece, and therefore it is much easier to
first center an object in the finder scope. Then, if the finder
scope is accurately aligned, the object will also be centered
in the telescope’s field of view.
Start by once again moving the telescope until it is pointed in
the general direction of the object you want to see. Some
observers find it convenient to sight along the tube to do this.
Now, look in the finder scope. If your general aim is accurate,
the object should appear somewhere in the finder scope.
Make small adjustments to the telescope’s position until the
object is centered on the finder’s crosshairs. Now, look in the
telescope’s eyepiece and enjoy the view!
Magnification
Now that the object you want to view is well centered in the
Naked-eye view
Figure 12. The view through a reflector telescope is upside down.
This is true for the SkyQuest XT4.5. The view through the correctimage finder scope, however will be right-side up, oriented the same
as seen with the naked eye.
9
25mm eyepiece, you may want to increase the magnification
to get a closer view. Loosen the thumbscrew on the focuser
drawtube and remove the eyepiece. Insert the 10mm eyepiece in the focuser then tighten the thumbscrew. If you were
careful not to bump the telescope, the object should still be
centered within the field of view. Notice that the object being
viewed is now larger, but somewhat dimmer.
The SkyQuest XT4.5 is designed to accept any eyepiece with
a barrel diameter of 1.25". Magnification, or power, is determined by the focal length of the telescope and the focal
length of the eyepiece. Therefore, by using eyepieces of different focal lengths, the magnification can be varied.
Magnification is calculated as follows:
The SkyQuest XT4.5 Dobsonian has a focal length of
910mm. So, the magnification with the supplied 25mm eyepiece is 910mm ÷ 25mm = 36x. The magnification provided
by the 10mm eyepiece is 910mm ÷ 10mm = 91x.
The maximum attainable magnification for a telescope is
directly related to how much light its optics can collect. A telescope with more light collecting area, or aperture, can yield
higher magnifications than a smaller aperture telescope. The
maximum practical magnification for any telescope, regardless of optical design, is about 50x per inch of aperture. This
translates to about 225x for the SkyQuest XT4.5.
Maximum magnifications are achieved only under the most
ideal viewing conditions at the best observing sites. Most of
the time, magnifications are limited to 200x or less, regardless of aperture. This is because the Earth’s atmosphere
distorts light as it passes through. On nights of good “seeing”,
the atmosphere will be still and will yield the least amount of
distortion. On nights of poor seeing, the atmosphere will be
turbulent, which means different densities of air are rapidly
mixing. This causes significant distortion of the incoming light,
which prevents sharp views at high magnifications.
Keep in mind that as magnification is increased, the brightness of the object being viewed will decrease; this is an
inherent principle of the physics of optics and cannot be
avoided. If magnification is doubled, an image appears four
times dimmer. If magnification is tripled, image brightness is
reduced by a factor of nine!
Carrying the Telescope
Moving the SkyQuest XT4.5 is exceptionally easy to do.
Because the springs of the CorrecTension system hold the
optical tube captive on the base, the entire telescope can be
carried as one unit. Simply grab the entire unit by the handle
on the tube (see Figure 13), and away you go!
DO NOT TRY TO CARRY THE TELESCOPE BY THE NAVIGATION KNOB. ONLY USE THE CARRYING HANDLE!
Make sure that the thumbscrews that secure the eyepiece in
the focuser are tightened, or it may fall out during transport.
Better yet, remove the eyepiece from the focuser and store it
in an appropriate eyepiece/accessory case.
If you wish to carry the optical tube and base separately, simply disengage the CorrecTension springs by unhooking them
from the posts on the base, using the pull loops. Make sure
the tube is positioned upright before doing this. The springs
remain captive on the telescope side bearings. Now the base
and tube are disengaged and can be transported separately.
When putting the SkyQuest into a vehicle, common sense
prevails. It is especially important that the optical tube does
not knock around; this can cause the optics to become misaligned, and could dent the tube. We recommend
transporting the telescope in a carry case for proper protection.
4. Observing Tips
For many users, the SkyQuest XT4.5 telescope will be a
major leap into the world of amateur astronomy. This section
is intended to get you ready for your first voyage through the
night sky.
Site Selection
Pick a location away from streetlights and bright yard lighting.
Avoid viewing over rooftops and chimneys, as they often
have warm air currents rising from them, which distort the
image seen in the eyepiece. Similarly, you should not
observe through an open window from indoors. Better yet,
choose a site out-of-town, away from any “light pollution”.
You’ll be stunned at how many more stars you'll see! Most
importantly, make sure that any chosen site has a clear view
of a large portion of the sky.
Figure 13: Transporting the SkyQuest XT4.5 is exceptionally
easy. Just grab the handle and go!
Magnification =
Telescope Focal Length (mm)
Eyepiece Focal Length (mm)
10
Cooling the Telescope
All optical instruments need time to reach “thermal equilibrium” to achieve maximum stability of the lenses and mirrors,
which is essential for peak performance. When moved from a
warm indoor location outside to cooler air (or vice-versa), a
telescope needs time to cool (or warm) to the outdoor temperature. The bigger the instrument and the larger the
temperature change, the more time will be needed.
Allow at least 30 minutes for your SkyQuest XT4.5 to equilibrate. If the scope experiences more than a 40°
temperature change, allow an hour or more. In the winter,
storing the telescope outdoors in a shed or garage greatly
reduces the amount of time needed for the optics to stabilize. It also is a good idea to keep the scope covered until
the Sun sets so the tube does not heat greatly above the
temperature of the outside air.
Seeing and Transparency
Atmospheric conditions play a huge part in quality of viewing.
In conditions of good “seeing”, star twinkling is minimal and
objects appear steady in the eyepiece. Seeing is best overhead, worst at the horizon. Also, seeing generally gets better
after midnight, when much of the heat absorbed by the Earth
during the day has radiated off into space. Typically, seeing
conditions will be better at sites that have an altitude over
about 3000 feet. Altitude helps because it decreases the
amount of distortion-causing atmosphere you are looking
through.
A good way to judge if the seeing is good or not is to look at
bright stars about 40° above the horizon. If the stars appear
to “twinkle”, the atmosphere is significantly distorting the
incoming light, and views at high magnifications will not
appear sharp. If the stars appear steady and do not twinkle,
seeing conditions are probably good and higher magnifications will be possible. Also, seeing conditions are typically
poor during the day. This is because the heat from the Sun
warms the air and causes turbulence.
Good “transparency” is especially important for observing
faint objects. It simply means the air is free of moisture,
smoke, and dust which tend to scatter light, reducing an
object's brightness. One good way to tell if conditions are
good is by how many stars you can see with your naked eye.
If you cannot see stars of magnitude 3.5 or dimmer then conditions are poor. Magnitude is a measure of a star's
brightness. The brighter a star is, the lower its magnitude will
be. A good star to remember for this is Megrez (mag. 3.4),
which is the star in the ‘Big Dipper’ connecting the handle to
the ‘dipper’. If you cannot see Megrez, then you have fog,
haze, clouds, smog, or other conditions that are hindering
your viewing. (See Figure 14)
Let Your Eyes Dark-Adapt
Do not expect to go from a lighted house into the darkness of
the outdoors at night and immediately see faint nebulas,
galaxies, and star clusters — or even very many stars, for
that matter. Your eyes take about 30 minutes to reach perhaps 80% of their full dark-adapted sensitivity. Many
observers notice improvements after several hours of total
darkness. As your eyes become dark-adapted, more stars
will glimmer into view and you will be able to see fainter
details in objects you view in your telescope. So give yourself
at least a little while to get used to the dark before you begin
observing.
To see what you are doing in the darkness, use a red light
flashlight rather than a white light. Red light does not spoil
your eyes’ dark adaptation like white light does. A flashlight
with a red LED light is ideal, or you can cover the front of a
regular flashlight with red cellophane or paper. Beware, too,
that nearby porch and streetlights and automobile headlights
will spoil your night vision.
5 Astronomy Basics
Tracking Celestial Objects
The Earth is constantly rotating about its polar axis, completing one full rotation every 24 hours; this is what defines a
“day”. We do not feel the Earth rotating, but we can tell that it
is at night by seeing the apparent movement of stars from
east to west. This movement translates into a rate of approximately .25° per minute, or 15 arc-seconds per second.
(There are 60 arc-minutes in 1°, and 60 arc-seconds in one
arc-minute.) This is called the sidereal rate.
When you observe any astronomical object, you are watching a moving target. This means the telescope’s position must
be continuously updated over time to keep an object in the
field of view. This is easy to do with the SkyQuest XT4.5
because of its smooth motions on both axes. As the object
moves off toward the edge of the field of view, you just lightly nudge the telescope to bring it back to the center.
You will notice that it is more difficult to “track” objects when
the telescope tube is aimed nearly straight up. This is inherent to the basic design of the Dobsonian, and stems from the
fact that there is very little mechanical leverage to move in
azimuth when the tube is in a near vertical position. To gain
more leverage, try grasping the tube close to the altitude side
bearings with both hands.
Figure 14. Megrez connects the Big Dipper’s handle to it's “pan”. It
is a good guide to how conditions are. If you can not see Megrez (a
3.4 mag star) then conditions are poor.
1.9
4.9
1.7
3.4
2.5
2.4
1.9
2.4
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Remember that objects appear to move across the field
of view faster at higher magnifications. This is because
the field of view becomes narrower.
Eyepiece Selection
By using eyepieces of varying focal lengths, it is possible
to attain many magnifications with the SkyQuest XT4.5. The
telescope comes with two high-quality Sirius Plössl eyepieces: a 25mm, which gives a magnification of 36x, and a
10mm, which gives a magnification of 91x. Other eyepieces
can be used to achieve higher or lower powers. It is quite
common for an observer to own five or more eyepieces to
access a wide range of magnifications. This allows the
observer to choose the best eyepiece to use depending on
the object being viewed. At least to begin with, the two supplied eyepieces will suffice nicely.
Whatever you choose to view, always start by inserting your
lowest-power (longest focal length) eyepiece to locate and
center the object. Low magnification yields a wide field of
view, which shows a larger area of sky in the eyepiece. This
makes acquiring and centering an object much easier. If you
try to find and center objects with high power (narrow field of
view), it’s like trying to find a needle in a haystack!
Once you’ve centered the object in the eyepiece, you can
switch to higher magnification (shorter focal length eyepiece),
if you wish. This is especially recommended for small and
bright objects, like planets and double stars. The Moon also
takes higher magnifications well.
Deep-sky objects, however, typically look better at medium or
low magnifications. This is because many of them are quite
faint, yet have some extent (apparent width). Deep-sky
objects will often disappear at higher magnifications, since
greater magnification inherently yields dimmer images. This
is not the case for all deep-sky objects, however. Many galaxies are quite small, yet are somewhat bright, so higher power
may show more detail.
The best rule of thumb with eyepiece selection is to start with
a low power, wide field, and then work your way up in magnification. If the object looks better, try an even higher
magnification. If the object looks worse, then back off the
magnification a little by using a lower-power eyepiece.
Now that you are all set up and ready to go, one critical decision must be made: what to look at?
What to Expect
So what will you see with your telescope? You should be able
to see bands on Jupiter, the rings of Saturn, craters on the
moon, the waxing and waning of Venus, and possibly hundreds of deep sky objects. Do not expect to see any color as
you do in NASA photos, since those are taken with longexposure cameras and have ‘false color’ added. Our eyes are
not sensitive enough to see color in deep-sky objects except
in a few of the brightest ones.
Remember that you are seeing these objects using your own
telescope with your own eyes! The object you see in your
eyepiece is in real-time, and not some conveniently provided
image from an expensive space probe. Each session with
your telescope will be a learning experience. Each time you
work with your telescope it will get easier to use, and stellar
objects will become easier to find. Take it from us, there is big
difference between looking at a well-made full-color NASA
image of a deep-sky object in a lit room during the daytime,
and seeing that same object in your telescope at night. One
can merely be a pretty image someone gave to you. The
other is an experience you will never forget!
A. The Moon
With its rocky surface, the Moon is one of the easiest and
most interesting targets to view with your telescope. Lunar
craters, marias, and even mountain ranges can all be clearly
seen from a distance of 238,000 miles away! With its everchanging phases, you’ll get a new view of the Moon every
night. The best time to observe our one and only natural
satellite is during a partial phase, that is, when the Moon is
NOT full. During partial phases, shadows are cast on the surface, which reveal more detail, especially right along the
border between the dark and light portions of the disk (called
the “terminator”). A full Moon is too bright and devoid of surface shadows to yield a pleasing view.
Use an optional Moon filter to dim the Moon when it is very
bright. It simply threads onto the bottom of the eyepieces
(you must first remove the eyepiece from the focuser to
attach a filter). You’ll find that a Moon filter improves viewing
comfort, and also helps to bring out subtle features on the
lunar surface.
B. The Sun
You can change your nighttime telescope into a daytime Sun
viewer by installing an optional full-aperture solar filter over
the front opening of a SkyQuest XT4.5. The primary attraction
is sunspots, which change shape, appearance, and location
daily. Sunspots are directly related to magnetic activity in the
Sun. Many observers like to make drawings of sunspots to
monitor how the Sun is changing from day to day.
Important Note: Do not look at the Sun with any optical
instrument without a professionally made solar filter, or
permanent eye damage could result.
C. The Bright Planets
The planets don’t stay put like the stars, so to find them you
should refer to Sky Calendar at our website (www.telescope.com), or to charts published monthly in Astronomy, Sky
& Telescope, or other astronomy magazines. Venus, Mars,
Jupiter, and Saturn are the brightest objects in the sky after
the Sun and the Moon. Your SkyQuest XT is capable of showing you these planets in some detail. Other planets may be
visible but will likely appear starlike. Because planets are
quite small in apparent size, optional higher-power eyepieces
are recommended and often needed for detailed observations. Not all the planets are usually visible at any one time.
JUPITER The largest planet, Jupiter, is a great subject for
observation. You can see the disk of the giant planet and
watch the ever-changing positions of its four largest moons—
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Io, Callisto, Europa, and Ganymede. Higher power eyepieces
should bring out the cloud bands on the planet’s disk.
SATURN The ringed planet is a breathtaking sight when it is
well positioned. The tilt angle of the rings varies over a period of many years; sometimes they are seen edge-on, while
at other times they are broadside and look like giant “ears” on
each side of Saturn’s disk. A steady atmosphere (good seeing) is necessary for a good view. You will probably see a
bright “star” close by, which is Saturn’s brightest moon, Titan.
VENUS At its brightest, Venus is the most luminous object in
the sky, excluding the Sun and the Moon. It is so bright that
sometimes it is visible to the naked eye during full daylight!
Ironically, Venus appears as a thin crescent, not a full disk,
when at its peak brightness. Because it is so close to the Sun,
it never wanders too far from the morning or evening horizon.
No surface markings can be seen on Venus, which is always
shrouded in dense clouds.
MARS The Red Planet makes its closest approach to Earth
every two years. During close approaches you’ll see a red
disk, and may be able to see the polar ice cap. To see surface detail on Mars, you will need a high power eyepiece and
very steady air!
D. The Stars
Stars will appear like twinkling points of light. Even powerful
telescopes cannot magnify stars to appear as more than a
point of light! You can, however, enjoy the different colors of
the stars and locate many pretty double and multiple stars.
The famous “Double-Double” in the constellation Lyra and the
gorgeous two-color double star Albireo in Cygnus are
favorites. Defocusing a star slightly can help bring out its
color.
E. Deep-Sky Objects
Under dark skies, you can observe a wealth of fascinating
deep-sky objects, including gaseous nebulas, open and globular star clusters, and a variety of different types of galaxies.
Most deep-sky objects are very faint, so it is important that
you find an observing site well away from light pollution. Take
plenty of time to let your eyes adjust to the darkness. Do not
expect these subjects to appear like the photographs you see
in books and magazines; most will look like dim gray
smudges. (Our eyes are not sensitive enough to see color in
deep-sky objects except in a few of the brightest ones.) But
as you become more experienced and your observing skills
get sharper, you will be able to ferret out more and more subtle details and structure.
How to Find Deep-sky Objects: Starhopping
Starhopping, as it is called by astronomers, is perhaps the simplest way to hunt down objects to view in the night sky. It entails
first pointing the telescope at a star close to the object you wish
to observe, and then progressing to other stars closer and closer to the object until it is in the field of view of the eyepiece. It is
a very intuitive technique that has been employed for hundreds
of years by professional and amateur astronomers alike. Keep in
mind, as with any new task, that starhopping may seem challenging at first, but will become easier over time and with
practice.
To starhop, only a minimal amount of additional equipment is
necessary. A star chart or atlas that shows stars to at least magnitude 5 is required. Select one that shows the positions of many
deep-sky objects, so you will have a lot of options to choose
from. If you do not know the positions of the constellations in the
night sky, you will need to get a planisphere to identify them.
Start by choosing bright objects to view. The brightness of an
object is measured by its visual magnitude; the brighter an
object, the lower its magnitude. Choose an object with a visual magnitude of 9 or lower. Many beginners start with the
Messier objects, which represent some of the best and brightest deep-sky objects, first catalogued about 200 years ago by
the French astronomer Charles Messier.
Determine in which constellation the object lies. Now, find the
constellation in the sky. If you do not recognize the constellation on sight, consult a planisphere. The planisphere gives an
all-sky view and shows which constellations are visible on a
given night at a given time.
Now look at your star chart and find the brightest star in the
constellation that is near the object that you are trying to find.
Using the finder scope, point the telescope at this star and center it on the crosshairs Next, look again at the star chart and
find another suitably bright star near the bright star currently
centered in the finder. Keep in mind that the field of view of the
finder scope is 6°, so you should choose a star that is no more
than 6° from the first star, if possible. Move the telescope slight-
Figure 15. Starhopping is a good way to locate hard-to-find
objects. Refer to a star chart to map a route to the object that uses
bright stars as guideposts. Center the first star you’ve chosen in
the finder scope and telescope eyepiece (1). Now move the scope
carefully in the direction of the next bright star (2), until it is
centered. Repeat (3 and 4). The last hop (5) should place the
desired object in the eyepiece.
ly, until the telescope is centered on the new star.
Continue using stars as guideposts in this way until you are
the approximate position of the object you are trying to find
(Figure 15). Look in the telescope’s eyepiece, and the object
should be somewhere within the field of view. If it’s not,
sweep the telescope carefully around the immediate vicinity
until the object is found.
If you have trouble finding the object, start the starhop again
from the brightest star near the object you wish to view. This
time, be sure the stars indicated on the star chart are in fact
the stars you are centering in the finder scope and telescope
eyepiece. Remember the telescope gives you inverted
images, but the finder scope does not.
6 Care and Maintenance
If you give your telescope reasonable care, it will last a lifetime. Store it in a clean, dry, dust free place, safe from rapid
changes in temperature and humidity. Do not store the telescope outdoors, although storage in a garage or shed is OK.
Small components like eyepieces and other accessories
should be kept in a protective box or storage case. Keep the
caps on the front of the scope and on the focuser when it is
not in use. For maximum protection during storage, we recommend placing the telescope in a case to prevent any dust
and moisture from accumulating on exposed surfaces.
The telescope requires very little mechanical maintenance.
The optical tube is made of steel and has a smooth painted
finish that is fairly scratch-resistant. If a scratch does appear
on the tube, it will not harm the telescope. If you wish, you
may apply some auto touch-up paint to the scratch. Smudges
on the tube can be wiped off with a soft cloth and a household
cleaner such as Windex or Formula 409.
Refer to Appendix B for detailed instructions on how to clean
the optics of the SkyQuest XT4.5.
7. Specifications
Focal Length: 900mm
Aperture: 114mm (4.5")
Focal Ratio: f/7.9
Mirror Coatings: aluminum with SiO
2
overcoat, 89% reflective
Minor Axis of secondary mirror: 28mm
Weight: 17.6 lbs. (tube and base)
Tube Length: 35"
Tube Outer Diameter: 5.5"
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Appendix A:
Collimation
(Aligning the
Mirrors)
Collimation is the process of adjusting the mirrors so they are perfectly
aligned with one another. Your telescope’s optics were aligned at the
factory, and should not need much
adjustment unless the telescope is
handled roughly. Accurate mirror
alignment is important to ensure the
peak performance of your telescope,
so it should be checked regularly.
Collimation is relatively easy to do
and can be done in daylight.
To check collimation, remove the eyepiece and look down the focuser
drawtube. You should see the secondary mirror centered in the
drawtube, as well as the reflection of
the primary mirror centered in the
secondary mirror, and the reflection of
the secondary mirror (and your eye)
centered in the reflection of the primary mirror, as in Figure 16a. If
anything is off-center, as in Figure
16b, proceed with the following collimation procedure.
The Collimation Cap and
Mirror Center Mark
Your SkyQuest XT4.5 comes with a
collimation cap. This is a simple cap
that fits on the focuser drawtube like
a dust cap, but has a hole in the
center and a silver bottom. This
helps center your eye so that collimation is easy to perform. Figures
16b-e assume you have the collimation cap in place.
In addition to providing the collimation
cap, you’ll notice a tiny ring (sticker) in
the exact center of the primary mirror.
This “center mark” allows you to
achieve a very precise collimation of
the primary mirror; you don’t have to
guess where the center of the mirror
is. You simply adjust the mirror position (described below) until the reflection of the hole in the collimation
cap is centered inside the ring. This center mark is also required for
best results with other collimating devices, such as Orion’s
LaserMate Laser Collimator, obviating the need to remove the primary mirror and mark it yourself.
NOTE: The center ring sticker need not ever be removed from
the primary mirror. Because it lies directly in the shadow of the
secondary mirror, its presence in no way adversely affects the
optical performance of the telescope or the image quality. That
might seem counterintuitive, but
it’s true!
Aligning the Secondary
Mirror
With the collimation cap in place,
look through the hole in the cap at
the secondary (diagonal) mirror.
Ignore the reflections for the time
being. The secondary mirror itself
should be centered in the focuser
drawtube, in the direction parallel to
the length of the telescope. If it isn’t,
as in Figure 16b, it must be adjusted.
It helps to adjust the secondary mirror in a brightly lit room with the
telescope pointed towards a bright
surface, such as white paper or wall.
Placing a piece of white paper in the
telescope tube opposite the focuser
(in other words, on the other side of
the secondary mirror) will also be
helpful in collimating the secondary
mirror. Using a 2mm Allen wrench,
loosen the three small alignment set
screws in the center hub of the 4vaned spider several turns. Now
hold the secondary mirror holder
stationary (be careful not to touch
the mirror's surface), while turning
the center screw with a Phillips head
screwdriver (See Figure 17). Turning
the screw clockwise will move the
secondary mirror toward the front
opening of the optical tube, while
turning the screw counter-clockwise
will move the secondary mirror
toward the primary mirror. When
making these adjustments, be careful not to stress the spider vanes or
they may bend.
When the secondary mirror is centered in the focuser drawtube, rotate
the secondary mirror holder until the
reflection of the primary mirror is as
centered in the secondary mirror as
possible. It may not be perfectly centered, but that is OK. Now tighten the
three small alignment screws equally
to secure the secondary mirror in that position. This adjustment will
rarely, if ever need to be done.
If the entire primary mirror reflection is not visible in the secondary
mirror, as in Figure 16c, you will need to adjust the tilt of the secondary mirror. This is done by alternately loosening one of the three
alignment set screws while tightening the other two, as depicted in
Figure 18. The goal is to center the primary mirror reflection in the
secondary mirror, as in Figure 16d. Don’t worry that the reflection of
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
Figure 16. Collimating the optics. (a) When the mirrors are
properly aligned, the view down the focuser drawtube
should look like this. (b) With the collimation cap in place, if
the optics are out of alignment, the view might look
something like this. (c) Here, the secondary mirror is
centered under the focuser, but it needs to be adjusted
(tilted) so that the entire primary mirror is visible. (d) The
secondary mirror is correctly aligned, but the primary mirror
still needs adjustment. When the primary mirror is correctly
aligned, the “dot” will be centered, as in (e).
15
the secondary mirror (the smallest circle, with the collimation cap
“dot” in the center) is off-center. You will fix that in the next step.
Adjusting the Primary Mirror
The final adjustment is made to the primary mirror. It will need
adjustment if, as in Figure 16d, the secondary mirror is centered
under the focuser and the reflection of the primary mirror is centered
in the secondary mirror, but the small reflection of the secondary mirror (with the “dot” of the collimation cap) is off-center.
The tilt of the primary mirror is adjusted with three spring-loaded collimation thumbscrews on the back end of the optical tube (bottom of
the primary mirror cell); these are the wide thumbscrews. The other
three thin thumbscrews lock the mirror's position in place; these
thin thumbscrews must be loosened before any collimation adjustments can be made to the primary mirror.
To start, turn the thin thumbscrews that lock the primary mirror in
place a few turns each (Figure 19).
Now, try tightening or loosening one of the wide collimation thumbscrews with your fingers (Figure 20). Look into the focuser and see if
the secondary mirror reflection has moved closer to the center of the
primary. You can tell this easily with the collimation cap and mirror
center mark by simply watching to see if the “dot” of the collimation
cap is moving closer or further away from being centered in the “ring”
of the primary mirror mark. When you have that dot centered as
much as is possible in the ring, your primary mirror is collimated. The
view through the collimation cap should resemble Figure 16e. Retighten the locking thumbscrews.
A simple star test will tell you whether the optics are accurately collimated.
Star-Testing the Telescope
When it is dark, point the telescope at a bright star and accurately
center it in the eyepiece’s field of view. Slowly de-focus the image
with the focusing knob. If the telescope is correctly collimated, the
expanding disk should be a perfect circle (Figure 21). If the image is
unsymmetrical, the scope is out of collimation. The dark shadow cast
by the secondary mirror should appear in the very center of the outof-focus circle, like the hole in a donut. If the “hole” appears
off-center, the telescope is out of collimation.
If you try the star test and the bright star you have selected is not
accurately centered in the eyepiece, the optics will always appear out
of collimation, even though they may be perfectly aligned. It is critical
to keep the star centered, so over time you will need to make slight
corrections to the telescope's position in order to account for the
sky’s apparent motion.
Appendix B: Cleaning the Optics
Cleaning Lenses
Any quality optical lens cleaning tissue and optical lens cleaning fluid
specifically designed for multi-coated optics can be used to clean the
exposed lenses of your eyepieces or finderscope. Never use regular
glass cleaner or cleaning fluid designed for eyeglasses.
Figure 17. To
center the
secondary mirror
under the focuser,
hold the secondary
mirror holder in
place with your
fingers while
adjusting the
center screw with
the Phillips head
screwdriver. Do not
touch the mirror’s
surface.
Figure 18. Adjust
the tilt of the
secondary mirror
by loosening or
tightening the
three alignment
set screws with a
2mm Allen
wrench.
Figure 19. The
three thin
thumbscrews that
lock the primary
mirror in place
must first be
loosened before
any adjustments
can be made.
Figure 20. The
tilt of the primary
mirror is adjusted
by turning one or
more of the three
wide collimation
thumbscrews.
Alignment setscrews (3)
Figure 21. A star
test will determine
if the telescope's
optics are properly
collimated. An
unfocused view of
a bright star
through the
eyepiece should appear as illustrated on the right if optics are perfectly
collimated. If the circle is unsymmetrical, as illustrated on the left, the
scope needs collimation.
Out of collimation Collimated
16
Before cleaning with fluid and tissue, blow any loose particles off the
lens with a blower bulb or compressed air. Then apply some cleaning fluid to a tissue, never directly on the optics. Wipe the lens gently
in a circular motion, then remove any excess fuild with a fresh lens
tissue. Oily finerprints and smudges may be removed using this
method. Use caution—rubbing too hard may scratch the lens. On
larger lenses, clean only a small area at a time, using a fresh lens tissue on each area. Never reuse tissues.
Cleaning Mirrors
You should not have to clean the telescope’s mirror very often;
normally once every year or so. Covering the telescope with the
dust cap when it is not in use will help prevent dust from accumulating on the mirrors. Improper cleaning can scratch mirror
coatings, so the fewer times you have to clean the mirrors, the better. Small specks of dust or flecks of paint have virtually no effect
on the visual performance of the telescope.
The large primary mirror and the elliptical secondary mirror of your
telescope are front-surface aluminized and overcoated with hard
silicon dioxide, which prevents the aluminum from oxidizing. These
coatings normally last through many years of use before requiring
re-coating, which is easily done.
To clean the secondary mirror, it must be removed from the telescope. Do this by holding the secondary mirror holder stationary
with your fingers (don’t touch the mirror itself) while unthreading
the Phillips head cap screw in the center hub of the 4-vaned spider. Completely unthread the screw from the holder, and the
holder will come loose in your fingers. Be careful not to lose the
spring on the Phillips head cap screw.
Handle the mirror and its holder carefully. You do not need to
remove the secondary mirror from its holder for cleaning. To clean
the secondary mirror, follow the procedure described below for
cleaning the primary mirror.
To clean the primary mirror, carefully remove the mirror cell from
the telescope. To do this, you must remove the three screws that
connect the entire mirror cell to the steel tube. These screws are
located on the outer edge of the mirror cell casing.
Now, remove the mirror from the mirror cell by removing the three
mirror clips that secure the mirror in its cell. Use a Phillips head
screwdriver to unthread the mirror clip anchor screws. Next, hold
the mirror by its edge, and remove it from the mirror cell. Be careful not to touch the aluminized surface of the mirror with your
fingers. Set the mirror on a clean, soft towel. Fill a clean sink, free
of abrasive cleanser, with room-temperature water, a few drops of
liquid dishwashing detergent, and if possible, a cap-full of rubbing
alcohol. Submerge the mirror (aluminized face up) in the water and
let it soak for several minutes (or hours if it is a very dirty mirror).
Wipe the mirror underwater with clean cotton balls, using extremely light pressure and stroking in straight lines across the surface.
Use one ball for each wipe across the mirror. Then rinse the mirror
under a stream of lukewarm water. Any particles on the surface
can be swabbed gently with a series of clean cotton balls, each
used just one time. Dry the mirror in a stream of air (a “blower bulb”
works great), or remove any stray drops of water with the corner of
a paper towel. Water will run off a clean surface. Dry the bottom
and the edges (not the mirror surface!) with a towel. Cover the mirror surface with Kleenex, and leave the entire assembly in a warm
area until it is completely dry before reassembling the telescope.
One-Year Limited Warranty
This Orion SkyQuest XT Dobsonian Reflecting Telescope is warranted against defects in materials or workmanship for
a period of one year from the date of purchase. This warranty is for the benefit of the original retail purchaser only. During
this warranty period Orion Telescopes & Binoculars will repair or replace, at Orion’s option, any warranted instrument
that proves to be defective, provided it is returned postage paid to: Orion Warranty Repair, 89 Hangar Way, Watsonville,
CA 95076. If the product is not registered, proof of purchase (such as a copy of the original invoice) is required.
This warranty does not apply if, in Orion’s judgment, the instrument has been abused, mishandled, or modified, nor
does it apply to normal wear and tear. This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights,
which vary from state to state. For further warranty service information, contact: Customer Service Department, Orion
Telescopes & Binoculars, P. O. Box 1815, Santa Cruz, CA 95061; (800) 676-1343.
Orion Telescopes & Binoculars
Post Office Box 1815, Santa Cruz, CA 95061
Customer Support Help Line (800) 676-1343 • Day or Evening
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