Oldsmobile Achieva 1994 3.1L Workshop Manual

oldsmobile :: Oldsmobile Achieva V6-3100 3.1L
MFI VIN M (1994)

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Behind LH Side Of I/P Attached To Convenience Center

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Alarm Module: Diagram Information and Instructions

Electricity

Electrical power flows from the power source to a load device and then back to the source of power. The electrical circuit should contain a deviceto open or close the circuit, such as a switch or relay, and a protective device (in case of an overload), such as a circuit breaker or a fusible link.Electrical circuits can be set up as series circuits, parallel circuits, or series/parallel circuits. The circuits in this vehicle are normally parallelcircuits.

Series Circuit

Series Circuit

In a series circuit, the electrical devices are connected to form one current path to and from the power source. In a series circuit the voltage isshared equally by all the devices in the circuit.

Parallel Circuit

Parallel Circuit

A series/ parallel circuit consists of a single current path and a circuit with more than one current path to and from the power source. In a parallelcircuit the voltage is constant and equal for each current path.

Series/Parallel Circuit

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Series/Parallel Circuit

A Series/Parallel circuit consists of a single current path and a circuit with more than one current path to and from the power source.

Cell References
CELL REFERENCES

"CELL"

General Motors vehicles often use references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These references are used in the Original EquipmentManual to refer to a section in the manual and not a specific diagram(s).

GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference

For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In theexample, "Section 20" is the engine control section of the manual.

Diagrams / Electrical Diagrams

To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: - for a complete list of the diagramsavailable for the vehicle. Choose the you are working on and view those diagrams. system

Note:

If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search feature that belongs to the system and when theresults are displayed note the path displayed. This will show the system the component belongs in.

Circuit Protection Devices
DESCRIPTION:

The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload conditions. An overload is defined as a currentrequirement that is higher than normal. This overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be theresult of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module failure.

The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, ifan electronic component short circuits, the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, itwill not necessarily prevent damage to the component.

CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES

There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.

CIRCUIT BREAKERS

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A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short orother type of overload condition in the circuit, the excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basictypes of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.

CYCLING CIRCUIT BREAKER

The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closeduntil the condition causing the high current is removed.

NON-CYCLING CIRCUIT BREAKER

There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a smallheater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source isremoved. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Itincreases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,

therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will notreset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second ortwo.

FUSES

Fig. 1 Fuse Devices

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Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color

Fig. 1.

Fig. 2.

The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, A fuse is a device that, by the melting of its element, opensan electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced eachtime a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown in For service replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse for a break in theelement. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-linefuses. These fuses are located within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.

AUTOFUSE

The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most oftenused to protect the wiring assembly between the Fuse Block and the system components.

MAXIFUSE

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The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally betweenthe Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, theMaxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designedto be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.

MINIFUSE

The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect thewiring assembly between a Fuse Block and system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific fusing tobe accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.

PACIFIC FUSE ELEMENT

The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuse element is designed to protect wiringfrom a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by

Maxifuses in future vehicles.

FUSIBLE LINKS

Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links

Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table

In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protectiondevices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig. 3.

Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is battery voltage past the fusible link to verifycontinuity.

Fig. 6.

Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible linkis four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, toprotect a 5 sq.mm wire use a 2 sq.mm link, Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes thelink appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when replacing a blown fusible link.

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Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(r), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that usefusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the ExpandedDuty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(r) fusible links. Hypalon(r) fusible links can only be used toreplace Hypalon(r) fusible links.

Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:-

Hypalon(r) (limited use): only available in 0.35 sq.mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all the way through.

- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of insulation.

­Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and has three dots following the writing on theinsulation.

Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it shouldbe cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).

Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload protection.CAUTION:

Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link

Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link

Fig. 4

To replace a damaged fusible link, , cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When connecting the repair link, strip wire anduse staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see Use Crimp and Seal splices whenever possible. Diagnostic Aids/Connector andWire Repair.

To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to eachharness wire, Fig. 5.

Circuit Components

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Circuit Components

Circuit components include power sources, circuit protection devices, circuit controllers, and circuit loads. Power sources are the battery orgenerator which provide the power for the circuit. Circuit protection devices are components such as fuses, circuit breakers and fusible links andprovide overload protection for the circuit. Circuit controllers are used to control the power flow within a circuit and are usually switches andrelays. Circuit loads are the actual component that provides a specific function. Circuit loads can be lights, motors, and solenoids

Relays

Non-Relay Circuit

Relay Circuit

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Battery and load location may require that a switch be placed some distance from either component. This means a longer wire and a higher voltagedrop. The installation of a relay between the battery and the load reduces the voltage drop, because the switch controls the relay, the switch can becompact.

Diodes

Diode Specifications And Configurations

Many of the electrical systems in this vehicle use diodes to isolate certain circuits and protect them from voltage surges. Diode specifications andreplacement part numbers are listed in illustration.

Diode Markings

To identify the Peak Inverse Voltage rating of the diode that will be replaced refer to illustration.(PIV)

Replacement procedures are as follows:

1. If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.2. Paying attention to the direction of current flow, remove the faulty diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located
next to a connector terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.

3. Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is necessary to attach
the new diode.

4. Check the current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the diode with the correct bias. Attach the new diode to the wire(s)
using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a heat sink (aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode leads to protect it from excessive heat.Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.

5. Install terminal(s) into the connector body, if removed in step 2.6. Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape. To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed
wire and diode attachment points.

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Symbol Identification

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Electrical Symbols

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Symbol Identification

Electrical Symbols

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Part 3 of 3

Electrical Symbols

VACUUM MOTORS

Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied,the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum, the motor is in the center "at rest" position.

Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating arm at any position between fully extended andfully retracted. The servo is operated by a control valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, thegreater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only difference is in the way the vacuum is applied.Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a calibrated control.

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Wire Color Code Identification

Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Gray: GR
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN

White: WHT
Yellow: YEL

Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)

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Alarm Module: Diagnostic Aids

Pull-to-Seat Connectors

NOTE

The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. Use the Pick(s) or Tools that apply to your terminal.

Use Terminal repair kit J 38125 or equivalent.

Figure 20 - Typical Pull-To-Seat Connector

Follow the steps below to repair Pull-To-Seat connectors (Figure 20). The steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may bedifferent, but the repair steps are similar. Some connectors DO NOT require all the steps shown. Skip the steps that DO NOT apply.

1. Separate connector halves. Using the proper pick or removal tool, remove terminal (see Figures 21 & 22).

a. Pull lead gently.b. Insert pick from front of connector into canal.c. Pry tab up with tool.d. Push lead to remove.

Figure 21

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Figure 22

2. If terminal is to be re-used, re-form locking tang.3. Make repair.

a. Pull terminal wire out of connector body.b. Cut wire as close to terminal as possible.c. Strip 5 mm (3/16") of insulation from the wire (see Figure 23).

d. Crimp new terminal to wire.e. Solder with rosin core solder.f.

Carefully pull on wire to draw terminal into connector body until it locks.

Push-to-Seat Connectors

NOTE

The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. Use the Pick(s) or Tools that apply to your terminal.

Use Terminal repair kit J 38125 or equivalent.

Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector

Follow the steps below to repair Push-To-Seat connectors (Figure 1). The steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may bedifferent, but the repair steps are similar. Some connectors DO NOT require all the steps shown. Skip the steps that DO NOT apply.

Remove Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) device, Connector Position Assurance (CPA) device and/or secondary lock.1. Separate connector halves (see Figures 2 through 6).

Figure 2

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Figure 3

Figure 4

Figure 5

Figure 6

2. Release terminal using proper pick or removal tool. Gently pull cable and terminal out the back of the connector (see Figures 7 through 11).

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Figure 7

Figure 8

Figure 9

Figure 10

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Figure 11

3. If terminal is to be re-used, re-form locking tang (see Figures 12 through 16).

Figure 12

Figure 13

Figure 14

Figure 15

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Figure 16

4. Make repair.

When using a new terminal:a. Slip cable seal away from terminal (if seal exist).b. Cut wire as close to terminal as possible.c. Slip a new cable seal onto wire (if necessary).d. Strip 3/16" (5 mm) of insulation from wire.e. Crimp a new terminal to the wire.f.

Solder with rosin core solder.

g. Slide cable seal toward terminal (if equipped with a seal).h. Crimp cable seal and insulation (if equipped with a seal).i.

Apply grease to connectors outside the passenger compartment where the connector originally was equipped with grease.

Figure 17

To re-use a terminal or lead assembly, see previous steps c through i for repairs. Be sure to keep cable seal (if equipped) on terminal side of splice.

5. Insert lead from the back until it catches.6. Install TPA's, CPA's and/or secondary locks, if equipped (see Figures 18 & 19).

Figure 18

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Figure 19

General

There are three electrical conditions that can cause a non-working circuit: an "Open Circuit," a "Short Circuit" or a "Grounded Circuit." The breakcan also be caused by intermittent or poor connections.

Open Circuit

Open Circuit

An open circuit occurs whenever there is a break in the circuit. The break can be corrosion at the connector, a wire broken off in a component, awire that burned open from too much current or a component nor operating as it should.

Short Circuit

Short Circuit

Grounded Circuit

Grounded Circuit

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A short circuit happens when the current bypasses part of the normal circuit. This bypassing is usually caused by wires touching, salt water in or ona component such as a switch or a connector, or solder melting and bridging conductors in a component.

A grounded circuit is like a short circuit but the current flows directly into a ground circuit that is not part of the original circuit. This may becaused by a wire rubbing against the frame or body. Sometimes a wire will break and fall against metal that is connected electrically to the groundside of the voltage supply. A grounded circuit may also be caused by deposits of oil, dirt, or moisture around connections or terminals, whichprovide a good path to ground.

Intermittents and Poor Connections

*** FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION NOT INCLUDED HERE, REFER TO TSB# 9282 DATED SEPTEMBER, 1991 ***

Most intermittents are usually caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a sticking relay, solenoid, or loose groundpoint can be a problem.

Basic Troubleshooting Guide
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDELINES

Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures contained in this section. You should understand thebasic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps) and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in acircuit with an open or a shorted wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step troubleshooting

procedure is recommended:

Step 1: Check the problem

Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until youhave narrowed down the possible causes.

Step 2: Read the electrical schematic

Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Description text if you do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiringwith the problem circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details and Light Switch Detailspages.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring usedonly by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.

Step 3: Find the fault and repair

^ Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^

Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness connector. If the checks and connectionsare OK, the most probable cause is component failure.

Step 4: Test the repair

Repeat the System Check to verify the fault has been corrected and that no other faults were induced during the repair.

EXAMPLE:

A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.

Step 1:

Perform a system check on the headlight circuit. You may discover that both LO beams operate. In "HI," you may notice that the HI BeamIndicator comes on, but neither HI beam operates.

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Fig. 1 Typical Headlights Schematic

Step 2:

Read the headlights electrical schematic, see This is the step that will save time and labor. Remember, it is essential to understand how aFig.5

circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it doesn't.

After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in mind what you have learned by operatingthe circuit.

Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal"1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G105 and G109 are all good. Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came on when the headlight Dimmer Switch was moved to "HI," you know that the HIcontacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.

At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in "HI." However, it is extremely unlikely thatthe HI beam filaments have burned out in both headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection atC100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp. You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.

Step 3:

Find the fault and repair it. Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure, you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRNwire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.

Step 4:

Check the repair by performing a system check on the headlights circuit. This, of course, means making sure that both HI beams, both LObeams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.

Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found that the LO beams were working, butneither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HIbeam filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.

Troubleshooting Tests
PROBING

(CPA)

After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall Connector Position Assurance andTerminal Position Assurance (TPA).

Frontprobe

Backprobe

Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage toconnector terminals, extra care must be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or byusing too large a test probe.

After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is suspected, check for proper terminal contact, see Checking Terminal Contact.

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When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter (GM Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616 or equivalent).The use of proper adaptors will ensure that proper terminal contact integrity is maintained.

Voltage Check

TESTING FOR VOLTAGE

1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a voltmeter, be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is connected to ground.2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or terminal).3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a voltmeter, note the voltage reading.

Continuity Check through a Switch

TESTING FOR CONTINUITY

1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved.2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test.3. Connect the other lead to the other end of the circuit.4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, low or no resistance means good continuity.

Voltage Drop Test

TESTING FOR VOLTAGE DROP

This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.

1. Connect the positive lead of a voltmeter to the end of the wire (or to one side of the connection or switch) which is closer to the Battery.2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or switch).3. Operate the circuit.4. The voltmeter will show the difference in voltage between the two points.

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Testing for Short with Test Light or Voltmeter

TESTING FOR SHORT TO GROUND

With a Test Light or Voltmeter

1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load.2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered).3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the test light or voltmeter.

4. When the test light glows, or the voltmeter registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.

Testing for Short with Self-Powered Test Light or Ohmmeter

With a Self-Powered Test Light or Ohmmeter

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1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load.2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side.3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground.4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching

the self-powered test light or ohmmeter.

5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.

Fuses Powering Several Loads

1. Find the schematic for the fuse that has blown.2. Open the first connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load.3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light or meter as described previously.

^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.

4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit the short is in. Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to

the suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.

Intermittents and Poor Connections
DESCRIPTI0N

Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Someitems to check are:

^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material which could impede proper terminal contact.
^

Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining proper terminal orientation with the componentor mating connector.

^

Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be checked carefully to ensure good contact tension.Use a corresponding mating terminal to check for proper tension. Refer to in this section for the specific procedure.Checking Terminal Contact

^

The Connector Test Adapter Kit (GM J 35616-A or equivalent) must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure requests checking or probing aterminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient.If contact tension seems incorrect, refer to for specifics.Checking Terminal Contact

^

Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wireinsulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.

^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^

Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of amulti-strand-type wire are intact, resistance could be far too high. To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs,always follow the instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Connector and Wire Repair.

Checking Terminal Contact

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Achieva V6-3100 3.1L MFI VIN M (1994)

Fig. 7 Deformation of a Typical Metri-Pak Series Female Terminal

DESCRIPTION

When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals (refer to GM Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A,instruction manual, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to check terminal contact between a connector and component, orbetween in-line connectors, before replacing a suspect component.

Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: "Check for poor connection." Mating terminals must be inspected to assure good terminalcontact. A poor connection between the male and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.

Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or damaged connector seal, or damage to the connectoritself, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.

Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper adapter, improperly joining the connector halves orrepeatedly separating and joining the connector halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminalcontact, see causing an open or intermittently open circuit.Fig. 7,

PROCEDURES:

Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact.

1. Separate the connector halves.

2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination. Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing high terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or underbody connector that shows signs ofcontamination should be replaced in its entirety: terminals, seals and connector body.

3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, check the retention force of the female terminal in question by inserting and
removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separatethe terminals.

4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, compare the retention force of this terminal to the female terminal in question
by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminalin question. If the retention force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in question.

If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be driven with a DVM connected to the suspectedcircuit. An abnormal voltage reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.

Circuit Protection Devices
DESCRIPTION:

The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload conditions. An overload is defined as a currentrequirement that is higher than normal. This overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be theresult of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module failure.

The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, ifan electronic component short circuits, the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, itwill not necessarily prevent damage to the component.

CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES

There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.

CIRCUIT BREAKERS

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A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short orother type of overload condition in the circuit, the excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basictypes of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.

CYCLING CIRCUIT BREAKER

The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closeduntil the condition causing the high current is removed.

NON-CYCLING CIRCUIT BREAKER

There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a smallheater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source isremoved. The other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. It

increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the circuit is effectively open. The ECB will notreset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second ortwo.

FUSES

Fig. 1 Fuse Devices

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Achieva V6-3100 3.1L MFI VIN M (1994)

Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color

Fig. 1.

Fig. 2.

The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, A fuse is a device that, by the melting of its element, opensan electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced eachtime a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown in For service replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse for a break in theelement. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-linefuses. These fuses are located within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.

AUTOFUSE

The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most oftenused to protect the wiring assembly between the Fuse Block and the system components.

MAXIFUSE

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The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. The Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally betweenthe Battery and Fuse Block, from both direct short circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, theMaxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designedto be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.

MINIFUSE

The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect thewiring assembly between a Fuse Block and system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific fusing tobe accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.

PACIFIC FUSE ELEMENT

The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuse element is designed to protect wiringfrom a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced by

Maxifuses in future vehicles.

FUSIBLE LINKS

Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links

Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table

In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protectiondevices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig. 3.

Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is battery voltage past the fusible link to verifycontinuity.

Fig. 6.

Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible linkis four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, toprotect a 5 sq.mm wire use a 2 sq.mm link, Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes thelink appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when replacing a blown fusible link.

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Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(r), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that usefusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the ExpandedDuty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(r) fusible links. Hypalon(r) fusible links can only be used toreplace Hypalon(r) fusible links.

Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:-

Hypalon(r) (limited use): only available in 0.35 sq.mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all the way through.

- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of insulation.

-

Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and has three dots following the writing on theinsulation.

Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it shouldbe cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).

Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload protection.CAUTION:

Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link

Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link

Fig. 4

To replace a damaged fusible link, , cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When connecting the repair link, strip wire anduse staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see Use Crimp and Seal splices whenever possible. Diagnostic Aids/Connector andWire Repair.

To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to eachharness wire, Fig. 5.

Handling and Measuring Procedures

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Achieva V6-3100 3.1L MFI VIN M (1994)

Fig. 1 ESD Symbol

Fig. 2 Typical Schematic W/ESD Symbol

ELECTROSTATIC DISCHARGE (ESD) SENSITIVE DEVICES

Fig. 1

Fig. 2.

All ESD sensitive components are Solid State and the following information applies to them. The ESD symbol, , is used on schematics toindicate which components are ESD sensitive, When handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelinesbelow to reduce any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and the electronic part in the dealership. If it is notknown whether or not a component is ESD sensitive, assume that it is.

HANDLING PROCEDURES

1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should be repeated while handling the part and more frequently after sliding
across the seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking the distance.

2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic procedure.3. When using a voltmeter be sure to connect the ground lead first.4. Do not open package until it is time to install the part.5. Before removing the part from its package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.

MEASURING PROCEDURES

The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless soinstructed by a written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements could be misleading, or couldlead to electrostatic discharge.

Circuit Protection Devices
DESCRIPTION

The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical load at the end of the assembly. For example, ifan electronic component short circuits, the circuit protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, itwill not necessarily prevent damage to the component.

CIRCUIT PROTECTION DEVICES

There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.

CIRCUIT BREAKERS

A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short orother type of overload condition in the circuit, the excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basictypes of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.

CYCLING CIRCUIT BREAKER

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The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload conditions. An overload is defined as a currentrequirement that is higher than normal. This overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. the short circuit could be the resultof a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module failure.

The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools,it will close again after a few seconds. If the cause of the high current is still present it will open again. It will continue to cycle open and closeduntil the condition causing the high current is removed.

NON-CYCLING CIRCUIT BREAKER

There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. the difference is a smallheater wire within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic element open until the current source isremoved. the other type is solid state, known as an Electronic Circuit Breaker (EC13). This device has a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Itincreases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes through it. the excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases,therefore having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so high that the circuit is effectively open. the EC13 will notreset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second ortwo.

Fig. 1 Fuse Devices

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Achieva V6-3100 3.1L MFI VIN M (1994)

Fig. 2 Fuse Rating and Color

FUSES

The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse, A fuse is a device that, by the melting of its element, opensFig. 1.

Fig. 2.

an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given level for a sufficient time. the action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced eachtime a circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired. Fuses are color coded. the standardized color identification and ratings are shown in For service replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used. Examine a suspect fuse for a break in theelement. If the element is broken or melted, replace the fuse with one of equal current rating. There are additional specific circuits with in-linefuses. These fuses are located within the individual wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.

AUTOFUSE

The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit protection device in today's vehicle. the Autofuse is most oftenused to protect the wiring assembly between the Fuse Block and the system components.

MAXIFUSE

The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse Elements. the Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between theBattery and Fuse Block, from both direct short circuits and resistive short circuits. Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse Element, theMaxifuse performs much more like an Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was designedto be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.

MINIFUSE

The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect thewiring assembly between a Fuse Block and system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific fusing tobe accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.

PACIFIC FUSE ELEMENT

The Pacific Fuse Element was developed to be a replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuse element is designed to protect wiringfrom a direct short to ground. Though the element is easier to service and inspect than a fusible link, it has limited use and will be replaced byMaxifuses in future vehicles.

Fig. 3 Good and Damaged Fusible Links

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Achieva V6-3100 3.1L MFI VIN M (1994)

Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table

FUSIBLE LINKS

In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protectiondevices that will melt and create an open circuit, Fig. 3.

Not all fusible link open circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is battery voltage past the fusible link to verifycontinuity.

Fig. 6.

Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible linkis four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, toprotect a 5 sq.mm wire use a 2 sq.mm link, Links are marked on the insulation with wire gage size because the heavy insulation makes thelink appear to be a heavier gage than it actually is. the same wire size fusible link must be used when replacing a blown fusible link.

Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that usefusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the ExpandedDuty type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links. Hypalon(r) fusible links can only be used toreplace Hypalon(R) fusible links.

Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links:-

Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in .35 sq.mm or smaller and its insulation is one color all the way through.

- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of insulation.

-

Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and has three dots following the writing on theinsulation.

-

Service fusible links are available in many lengths. Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, itshould be cut 150-225 mm (approx 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.).

Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload protection.CAUTION:

Fig. 4 Single Wire Feed Fusible Link

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Achieva V6-3100 3.1L MFI VIN M (1994)

Fig. 5 Double Wire Feed Fusible Link

To replace a damaged fusible link, , cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When connecting the repair link, strip wire andFig. 4

SPLICING COPPER WIRE.

use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two places. For more details on splicing procedures, see UseCrimp and Seal splices whenever possible.

To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to eachharness wire, Fig. 5.

Pull-to-Seat Connectors

NOTE

: The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. Use the Pick(s) or Tools that apply to yourterminal. Use Terminal repair kit J 38125 or equivalent.

Figure 20 - Typical Pull-To-Seat Connector

Follow the steps below to repair Pull-To-Seat connectors (Figure 20). The steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may bedifferent, but the repair steps are similar. Some connectors DO NOT require all the steps shown. Skip the steps that DO NOT apply.

1. Separate connector halves. Using the proper pick or removal tool, remove terminal (see Figures 21 & 22).

a. Pull lead gently.b. Insert pick from front of connector into canal.c. Pry tab up with tool.d. Push lead to remove.

Figure 21

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Achieva V6-3100 3.1L MFI VIN M (1994)

Figure 22

Figure 23

2. If terminal is to be re-used, re-form locking tang.3. Make repair.

a. Pull terminal wire out of connector body.b. Cut wire as close to terminal as possible.c. Strip 5 mm (3/16") of insulation from the wire (see Figure 23).d. Crimp new terminal to wire.e. Solder with rosin core solder.f.

Carefully pull on wire to draw terminal into connector body until it locks.

Push-to-Seat Connectors

NOTE

: The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. Use the Pick(s) or Tools that apply to yourterminal. Use Terminal repair kit J 38125 or equivalent.

Figure 1 - Typical Push-To-Seat Connector

Follow the steps below to repair Push-To-Seat connectors (Figure 1). The steps are illustrated with typical connectors. Your connector may bedifferent, but the repair steps are similar. Some connectors DO NOT require all the steps shown. Skip the steps that DO NOT apply.

1. Remove Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) device, Connector Position Assurance (CPA) device and/or secondary lock. Separate connector
halves (see Figures 2 through 6).

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Achieva V6-3100 3.1L MFI VIN M (1994)

Figure 2

Figure 3

Figure 4

Figure 5

Figure 6

2. Release terminal using proper pick or removal tool. Gently pull cable and terminal out the back of the connector (see Figures 7 through 11).

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Figure 7

Figure 8

Figure 9

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Achieva V6-3100 3.1L MFI VIN M (1994)

Figure 10

Figure 11

3. If terminal is to be re-used, re-form locking tang (see Figures 12 through 16).

Figure 12

Figure 13

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Achieva V6-3100 3.1L MFI VIN M (1994)

Figure 14

Figure 15

Figure 16

4. Making repair when using a new terminal:

a. Slip cable seal away from terminal (if seal exist).b. Cut wire as close to terminal as possible.c. Slip a new cable seal onto wire (if necessary).d. Strip 5 mm (3/16") of insulation from wire.e. Crimp a new terminal to the wire.f.

Solder with rosin core solder.

g. Slide cable seal toward terminal (if equipped with seal).h. Crimp cable seal and insulation (if equipped with seal).i.

Apply grease to connectors outside passenger compartment where connector was originally equipped with grease.

Figure 17

To re-use a terminal or lead assembly, see Splicing Copper Wire. Be sure to keep cable seal (if equipped) on terminal side of splice.

5. Insert lead from the back until it catches.6. Install TPA's, CPA's and/or secondary locks, if equipped (see Figures 18 & 19).

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Achieva V6-3100 3.1L MFI VIN M (1994)

Figure 18

Figure 19

Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
DESCRIPTION

Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial to form a one to one splice. They are to be usedwhere there are special requirements such as moisture scaling. (Crimp and Seal splice sleeves are included in the GM J 38125-A Terminal RepairKit.)

Step 1: Open the Harness

If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available fromsewing supply stores). The Crimp and Seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except tefzel and coaxial and may only be used toform a one to one splice.

Step 2: Cut the Wire

Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change thelocation of a splice. You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away from other splices,harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging adjacent splices and causing damage.

Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table

Step 3: Strip the Insulation Fig. 6.

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Achieva V6-3100 3.1L MFI VIN M (1994)

If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be certain to use the same size as the original wire, see To find the correctwire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure aboutthe wire size, begin with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Stripapproximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check thestripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.

Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart

Fig. 13 Hand Crimp Tool

Fig. 14 Seal Splice Sequence

Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Fig. 13,

Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire size. The splice sleeves and tool nests are color coded. Using a crimp tool, position thesplice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end ofthe barrel and the stop.

Fig. 14.

The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further, Close the hand crimper handles slightly to hold thesplice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.

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Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp

Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits the barrel stop and close the handles of the crimper tightly until the crimper handles open whenreleased. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for oppositeend of the splice.

Step 6: Shrink the Insulation around the Splice

Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heatbarrel to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the insulation. A small amount of sealant will comeout of the end of the tubing when sufficient shrinking is achieved, Fig. 14.

Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips

The Splice Clip (included in the GM J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit) is a general purpose wire repair device. It may not be acceptable forapplications having special requirements such as moisture sealing.

Step 1: Open the Harness

If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available fromsewing supply stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.

Step 2: Cut the Wire

Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off tochange the location of a splice. You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1-1/2") away from othersplices, harness branches or connectors.

Step 3: Strip the Insulation

Fig. 6 Wire Size Conversion Table

Fig. 6,

When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. See table, forthe commercial (AWG) wire sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger than the equivalentmetric size. To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the AWG size, or use an AWG wiregage. If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation isremoved. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the wires.

Step 4: Crimp the Wires

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Achieva V6-3100 3.1L MFI VIN M (1994)

Fig. 8 Crimping the Splice Clip

Fig. 9 Completing the Crimp

Fig. 7.

Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. Select the correct anvil on the crimper. On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or large anvil.Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as shown in Then, center the splice clip under thestripped wires and hold it in place.^

Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point where the former touches the wings of the clip.
^

Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until the crimping tool closes, Fig. 8.

^

Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that:^

The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
^ No strands of wire are cut loose, and
^

No insulation is caught under the clip. Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of theclip or you may damage or nick the wires, Fig. 9.

Step 5: Solder

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Achieva V6-3100 3.1L MFI VIN M (1994)

Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip, Follow the manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment youFig. 10.

are using.

Step 6: Tape the Splice

Fig. 11 Proper First Taping

Fig. 12 Proper Second Taping

Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice. Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on theexisting wires. Do not flag the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the nagged ends will tangle with the other wires in theharness, Fig. 11.

Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable

Fig. 15 Twisted/Shielded Cable

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Achieva V6-3100 3.1L MFI VIN M (1994)

If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a winding motion to cover the first piece of tape, Fig.12.

Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For example, two-conductor cable of this construction isused between the ECM and the distributor. See for a breakdown of twisted/shielded cable construction.Fig. 15

Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket

Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting into the drain wire or the mylar tape.

Step 2: Unwrap the Tape

Unwrap the aluminum/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have beenmade.

Step 3: Prepare the Splice

Fig. 16 The Untwisted Conductors

Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to staggersplices to avoid shorts, Fig. 16.

Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable

Fig. 17 The Re-assembled Cable

After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain wire around the conductors and mylar tape,Fig. 17.

Step 5: Tape the Cable

Fig. 18 Proper Taping

Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion, This tape will replace the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.Fig. 18.

Typical Electrical Repair
TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR

An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is open, active components do not energize. Ashort circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuseto blow or a circuit breaker to open.

SHORT CIRCUITS CAUSED BY DAMAGED WIRE INSULATION

^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of the wire.

Weather Pack Connectors

WEATHER PACK

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Achieva V6-3100 3.1L MFI VIN M (1994)

Fig. 21 Typical Weather Pack Connector and Terminal

Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors, Fig. 21

Step 1:

Separate the connector halves.

Step 2:

Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to the connector.

Step 3:

Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this position.

Step 4:

Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.

Step 5:

Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.

Never use force to remove a terminal from a connector.NOTE:

Step 6:

Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary.

Step 7:

Reform the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.

Step 8:

Close secondary locks and join connector halves.

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Alarm Module: Electrical Diagrams

Refer to Antitheft and Alarm Systems level diagrams.