Nortik Navigator Assembly Manual

Assembly Instruction nortik navigator

High performance touring kayak

QR code assembly video: QR code pdf downlaod:

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Assembly Instruction nortik navigator

Dear Customer,

At first: please do not be alarmed by the extent of these instructions!
The assembly instructions are very detailed and almost every step is illustrated. You will
notice that it will help you at one point or another. After a few times and with a little practice
you won’t need the manual anymore.

You have purchased a nortik - navigator - an innovative single kayak with extremely high
performance, small packing size and little weight.

The first few setups are power intensive, since frame and skin have to adapt to another (the
hull expands a bit while/after assembling the first couple of times). The assembling gets then
easier each time.

Please take your time for the first assembling to learn about the special features. It is
strongly recommended following the single steps in the instructions carefully!
Otherwise, it will be unnecessarily difficult.
After some practice you will build it up without much hassle in about 15-20 minutes.
Always keep in mind that no one is born a master, and the individual assembling has to be
learned for each folding boat.

If you have any questions, your dealer will be happy to assist you. Otherwise you can also
contact us directly - as an importer (call: 0049/731/4007675, mail: [e-mail]).

Please also consider the instructions of “Care and Accessories” at the end of this manual.

Especially if you are planning extensive tours in salt water, which requires special care!
We hope you enjoy your new kayak!

Please note that there is an assembly video on YouTube:

https://www.youtube.com/faltboot_de

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1) Overview parts

1) 1x Hull

2) 1x Bow element

3) 1x Stern element

4) 2x Thigh brace

5) 4x Side element

6) 2x Keel rod (18mm x 24mm)

7) 7x Cross rib

8) 2x Ridge bar (18mm x 18mm)

9) 1x Seat & Backrest

10) 2x Seat-Tubes

11) 2x Hatch-Covers

12) 1x Repair-Kit

2) Marking

All side elements have an arrow. These
arrows have to point towards the bow.

3) Assembly of the stern

You need:

1) Stern element

2) cross ribs #7 und #6

3) Keel with the steel-fitting (see picture)

4) Ridge bar (the shorter one)

5) 2x Side elements with the steel-fittings
(marked on the picture)

Note: You will see that the arrows on all
parts will point towards the bow after the
installation. This will help you to figure out
which parts and pieces are needed during
your further assemblies.

1)

4)

3)

2)

5)

7)

6)

9)

8)

12)

11)

10)

4

Connect the stern to the keel.

Take the side elements and unfold them.

Connect the side elements to the stern as
shown on the pictures.

5

Please install the ridge bar.

Now you can start the installation of the
cross ribs. Start with Cross rib #7 (the

smallest).

There are little “hooks / noses” on the top

and the bottom of the cross ribs. They have

to “look” to the stern of the Kayak. Install it

first to the ridge bar (like shown on the
pictures 1 and 2)

6

After installation of the cross rib to the ridge
bar you can connect it to the keel.

This can be a little tricky. If so, just bend the
hook/nose a little more downwards with
pliers.

Take one side element and hook the cross
rib into it. Please make sure that the side
element is still correct connected to the
stern:

Then hook the cross rib into the side
element on the other side.

Control again the connection of the side
element to the stern:

2

7

Proceed equally with cross rib #6.
The stern element is now fully assembled

and should result in the image on the left.

4) Assembly of the Bow

You need:

1) Bow element

2) Cross rib #1 and #2

3) The remaining keel-rod

4) Ridge bar (the longer one)

5) 2x Side elements

Please proceed analogously to the
assembly of the stern.

(The only difference is, that the
hooks/noses on top and bottom of the
cross ribs have to point towards the stern)

8

5) Installation rudder rails / rails for the foot pegs

Note: If you are not installing any rudder system / foot rest, you can skip this step

Take the steering/rudder rail.
You can adjust the pedals on the rail or
take it out completely by releasing the
locking (pull towards you) and pushing the
pedal towards the rail.

(see next picture)

Now take the rail and install it at the bow frame.

In the following you can see the procedure:

9

The result should look like the image on the
left.

6) Inserting the frame into the hull

Roll out the hull.
First insert the stern element into the hull.

If needed, twist the frame by doing so, but

make sure to place the frame (ridge bar
and keel) centered!

10

Push the frame into the hull. Try to
orientate at the ridge bar and the
reinforcement strip on the deck to insert the
frame centrally.

The result should look like the picture on
the left.

Make sure to take the filling tubes for the
sponsons between the stringer of the side
elements.

Proceed likewise with the bow element.
NOTE:

At the beginning the bow sits very tight
inside the hull and it can get difficult to get it
out again (see notes for disassembling). By
lubricating or by putting a thin plastic bag
around the frame you reduce the friction.

11

Again: Make sure, that the frame lays flat
and centered inside the hull.

Then take the side walls and insert the
narrow fitting into the larger fitting and
press the side elements outwards.

Take the two keel rods upwards and place
the one with the overlapping fitting over the
other one.

Gently push the two rods downwards.

12

Now take cross rib #5 and install it.
Important: Install the frames #5 and also

#3 so that the ridge bar can snap into the
fitting on the top of the cross rib. The fitting
points away from the cockpit.

Make sure that the side fittings of the cross
rib are properly positioned into the side
elements. In order to do this, you may
have to push it into the right position
towards cross rib.

Insert ridge bar into the cross rib.

Now take the seat with the inflating tubes
facing to the front of the cockpit.
Insert the two seat rods into the seat.

Note: Your seat has inflatable "hip-fit­pads" on the sides, which will provide more
contact with your boat.
(not shown on the pictures)

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Push the two seat rods into the cross rib
#5.

Then take half cross rib #4 and push it

onto the two seat rods,…

…and by keeping them in place, install the

half cross rib first to the side elements…

…before pushing it onto the pickup on the

keel rod.
The “nose” has to point towards the bow.

14

Make sure, that the flaps for the thigh
braces are not jammed behind the side
elements.

Install cross rib #3 just as #5.

Insert ridge bar into the cross rib.

Take the thigh braces and slide on the
neoprene sleeves.

Note: This is a one-time installation for
your new boat.

TIP: Put some dish liquid into the
neoprene sleeve to put it on easier.

(shown on the thigh braces of the nortik
argo)

15

Push the thigh brace through the flaps and
the loops from the "hip-fit-pads" of the seat
into the hole in cross rib #5 towards the
stern.

The front end of the thigh brace is pushed
into cross rib #3.

Therefore push the sliding sleeve towards
the cross rib until the snap button locks
into the hole.

Install the back rest.
The straight side faces downwards, the
curved upwards.

16

Lead the strap through the D-ring on the
thigh brace, then lead it back though the
counterpart on the back of the back rest.

Attention:

Unlike shown on the pictures is your boat
already equipped with a reinforced
backrest and quick fastener.

Lead the two straps on the back around
cross rib #5 and close them with the quick
fastener.

If you are not installing a rudder system,
you can now inflate the sponsons by
using the filling tubes.

It is best to inflate the sponsons with the
mouth. When you notice, that it gets harder
to inflate, it is usually the right pressure.

First inflate one side only a little, then the
other side. Then inflate the one side
completely, and finally the other.

17

Make sure, that the stringer don't get
pushed into the cockpit. That means too
much pressure on the sponsons.

The filling tubes are then connected with
the connecting pipe. By connecting the
tubes you will provide a pressure
equalization, which guarantees an ever
symmetrical underwater hull.

Install the deck lining:

If the deck lining isn't already preinstalled,
you will have to do it once on your new
boat.

The deck lining can be installed in
different ways.
One suggestion is, to form a loop, lead it
through the middle D-ring and lead the
two ends back through the loop.

But you are free to attach the lining as
you want.

Cover for the loading hatch:

Please secure the hatch cover at the first
assembling to the deck lining on the fore
ship. It can stay there, and you won't lose
it.
Lay it "on the back", run one hanger under
the lining and then the whole cover
through it.

Now the hatch cover is securely
connected to the lining and stays on
board.

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If you haven't installed a rudder system, the assembling is done. Please see the notes for
disassembling.

The next step is the installation of the rudder system. A few things have to be done here only
once. It is not necessary to redo them at further assembling.

7) Installation of the rudder system

You have already installed the two rails
(see installation steps above)

It remains:
2x pedals
2x rolled up bowden wire (1)
1x rudder blade (2)
1x pull-up cord (3)
2x holding clip for cockpit (4)
2x cable clamp (5)
2x loose ropes (no pic)

Take the rudder blade and insert it on the pickup on the stern. Therefore take off the secure
ring, slide the rudder into the pickup and re-secure it with the ring:

1)

2)

3)

4)

5)

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Unroll the two bowden wires. They both
have a little rope and a carabiner at the
end.

Detach the short rope and the carabiner
from the bowden wire.

Lead the short rope from behind through
the bigger hole in the side of the rudder
head.

NOTE: The rope will just squeeze through
the hole. If necessary help along with a
small screw driver or similar.
This has to be done only once!

Now re-attach the carabiner.
Proceed identically on the other side.

The rope and the carabiner always stays on
the rudder.

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Now lead the bowden wire from the inside
of the boat (through the loading hatch)
through the small tube at the stern's deck.

Proceed as follows:
First lead the rope through the tube…

...then push the bowden wire through the
opening.

It is best to do some circling movements
while pushing firmly, until the bowden wire
comes through the opening.

Now lead the bowden wire from the back to
the front inside the cockpit. Lead it out- and
side wards above the cross ribs to the front.
At that position it won't bother you, not even
while loading the boat.

Now lead the bowden wire from the back to
the front inside the cockpit. Lead it out- and
side wards above the cross ribs to the front.
At that position it won't bother you, not even
while loading the boat.

Also lead it outward cross rib #5 and behind
the "hip-fit-pads".

NOTE: If you use the rudder system
regularly, you can leave the bowden wires
in the boat.

The bowden wire ends in the cockpit.

21

Take the end of the bowden wire and lead
the rope through the bigger hole of the
holding clip…

…then push the end of the bowden wire as
far as possible into the holding clip.

Measure 50 cm from the end of the wire
and knot it to the cable clamp.

IMPORTANT:
Knot the cable clamp at the bottom (at the
little notch).
This you also have only to do once.

(This should result in the image on the left.)

50 cm

22

Lead the tied cable clamp over the cross rib
#3 towards the bow.

Attach the holding clip on top of cross rib
#3.

Then knot the bigger ropes to the holes on
the pedal's side.

holding clip

cable clamp

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Put the pedal into the boat and lead the
bigger rope through the cable clamp.

Place the pedal in the desired position
onto the rail and tighten the rope in the
cable clamp.

(here shown on the nortik argo)

Tighten it only that much, that you have
enough space to do perform the steering
movement. Then again lead the rope
through cable clamp.

(here shown on the nortik argo)

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Cut the surplus rope and seal the cut
with a lighter.

NOTE:
The cable clamps can stay on the
steering rope.

(here shown on the nortik argo)

Last but not least install the pull-up cord.
First take the rope with the sliding clip…

… and knot it tight to the D-rings behind
and in front of the cockpit.

Then lead the pull-up cord, which is
fastened to the rudder through the
sternmost D-ring.

Lead it all the way through the 3 D-rings
beside the loading hatch.

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Then lead the pull-up cord through the
sliding clip app. between cross rib #3
and #4. Tighten it and make a knot.

By pushing or pulling the clip you can lift
or lower the rudder.

Your nortik navigator is now fully assembled with rudder system.

Have fun on the water!

Instructions for disassembling:

- For the disassembling proceed in the same way as for assembling but in reverse
order.

- For the disassembling it is absolutely necessary to take out cross rib #3.

- Open the hatches and slip them outward, so that the rods won't get caught up in it.

- Should it be a little hard - especially in the beginning - to pull out the frame from the
hull, tap with your flat hand on the front of the lower part against the bow. Here, the
boat should lay flat and the stern should already be taken out of the skin. Especially
the first 2-3 times, it may be that the bow frame sits very tight in the skin. By tapping
the frame should slightly loose itself from the skin and it then gets easier to pull out.
You can also grab through the front hatch and slightly loosen the frame.

Folding the hull
Before folding the skin, spread it out

flatly,
push the cockpit to one side and fold in
the other side.
Then you start with the tips and fold
them in from each side.

Proceed as shown in the pictures…

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Care, Safety, Storage and further Information:

Salt water:
If you want to use your boat in the brackish water / salt water, the treatment of the rod
with "CorroFilm" is absolutely recommended. Ask your local Dealer for it!

CorroFilm can be sprayed onto (and if necessary also in) the rods and generates a
transparent, dry protective film which protects the aluminum perfectly against the "attack" of
salt water. Ask your dealer about CorroFilm. Clean the rods and boat skin after exposing it to
salt water (e.g. after the tour) with sufficient fresh water.

Important: If the boat is to be stored for a longer time, take the air out of the sponsons! A
folding boat should be built up and removed several times a year.

Ensure that the boat skin and rods are dry when packed and stored.
The boat skin is resistant to salt water. Nevertheless, it should also be cleaned with fresh

water after the return from a tour in brackish or salt water. Especially when sand or small
stones can cause high abrasion.

Please make sure to carry the boat not only by the handles, but also support it from the
bottom, in order to relieve the handles from tension.

Always wear a life jacket when you are using your boat on the
Waters! Beware of rapid weather changes!

Repairing and reinforcements

The PVC / PU skin can easily be repaired in case of abrasion, a small crack or hole with the
included repair kit.

- Cut a strip of PVC / PU material from the supplied repair kit.
Make sure that it extends generously over the damaged area.

- Round the corners of the strip with scissors or similar.

- Clean the strip and the area to be patched. Both must be free of grease.

- It is best to roughen the spot with a fine sandpaper,(but in a pinch it will also work without it)

- Apply a thin layer of glue on both surfaces

- Wait for the glue to dry slightly, then press the patch firmly onto the area to be repaired.
If you can make the repairing at home: Let the glue dry for an hour, place the patch on the

spot, and gently warm both with a hot air dryer. Then push the patch firmly onto the hull.
On tour: The canoe can be reused shortly after repair. However, the adhesive and protective

effect still improves within 12 hours when the adhesive is completely dried. The sponson can
be repaired in the same procedure as described above. Please pay attention to a clean,
grease-free surface.

Your kayak is equipped with a keel strip. However, you can apply additional reinforcements
at much stressed points. Depending on the type of use, other keel strips or partial
reinforcements of the skin are recommended. If necessary, ask for it in specialized dealers.

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More useful accessories for your boat:

Multifunctional attachment:

Your kayak comes with an already
mounted multifunctional attachment on
the bow. So it is "ready for flat earth". Flat
earth is a very effective and light (<1kg)
sailing system for your kayak.

(see picture below)

You can also use it for an all round light
from "Navisafe". There are special
attachments for this.

(see top picture)

For further information:
www.faltboot.de

Sea sock

Many customers won't go without that
accessory anymore.
You attach it to the cockpit and sit so to
say inside a sock. This provides dirt and
water getting into the boat.
That doesn't only protect the boat from
getting dirty, but also provides more safety
in case of capsize.
A very clever idea!

(The picture shows the sea sock for the
nortik navigator, which is identical for
both boats (nortik argo / nortik
navigator).)

Spray skirt Thermal-PU

The elastic and lightweight Thermal-PU­material provides a maximum of water
protection, a secure grip on the coaming
and has a very small packing size.

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For more information about your and other products, sources of supply and downloads at

any time:

Rudder system

Hatch cover

The handy hatch cover protects your boat
from dirt, splash water and small insects.
Material: Nylon.

CorroFilm

Protects your aluminum frame against
corrosion. Ideal for tours on salt waters
and a must have for all aluminum rods!