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how we use data. We’ll always ask for permission
before sharing personally identifiable information
like your email address, and we keep your data safe
with industry standard security tools. To learn more
about our Privacy Policy, go to nest.com/privacy
Compatibility
Based on Nest’s online compatibility checker data, the Nest Thermostat works with
most 24V systems, including gas, electric, oil, forced air, variable speed, heat pump,
and radiant. It can control:
• Heating: one, two, and three stages (W1, W2, W3)
• Cooling: one and two stages (Y1, Y2)
• Heat pump: with auxiliary and emergency heat (O/B, AUX, E)
• Fan (G)
• Power (C, RH, RC)
• Humidifier or dehumidifier (HUM, DEHUM)
The Nest Thermostat’s
W3, E, HUM or DEHUM.
The Nest Thermostat is designed to work even if your home doesn’t have a common (C) wire.
Rarely, installing a new C wire may be required.
Professional installation recommended for:
• Dual fuel systems (heat pump with furnace)
• Whole-home humidifiers and dehumidifiers
connector can accept only one of these wires:
*
Watch the video
To see how it’s done, watch our installation video at support.nest.com/thermostat
1. Switch off power
This protects you and avoids blowing a fuse
in your equipment. Adjust the temperature
on your old thermostat to make sure your
system is off.
2. Remove cover
Some covers pop off, while others need
to be unscrewed.
Breaker box
Switch
3. Check your system
If your old thermostat is labeled 120V or 240V
or has thick wires with wire nuts, your system
is high voltage. Not sure? Contact support.
CAUTION: Do not connect Nest
to high voltage wires.
4. Remove any jumper wires
Jumper wires are short wires between two
connectors. You won’t need them. An R wire
can go into either RC or RH.
5. Label wires
Peel off the labels below and attach them to the
thermostat’s matching wires.
Use the white labels for any W3, E, HUM or DEHUM
wires. The
of these wires.
See two names for each connector on your old
thermostat’s backplate? Visit nest.com/2labels
for help.
connector can only connect to one
*
Two labels
Tip: Take a
picture of the
wires on your
old thermostat
to help you
remember.
6. Disconnect wires and
remove base
After removing the
base, we recommend
gently wrapping the
wires around a pen or
pencil to ensure they
don’t fall back into
the hole in the wall.
Remember, the power to your
HVAC system must be off to avoid
blowing a fuse in your equipment.
7. Mark where screws will go
Use the bubble level to make sure the
Nest Thermostat is level.
Optional in most homes
Use trim plate if needed
You can cover up holes or marks left
by your old thermostat with the optional
trim plate.
Snap the base and trim plate together,
then screw them to the wall.
You’ll find the trim plate in the bottom
of the box.
Optional in most homes
Mounting on an electrical box
Electrical boxes aren’t common, but if you
have one, secure the steel plate to the
electrical box with two of the short steel plate
screws. Insert the screws into the long slots
on the steel plate.
Use the other two short screws to attach the
Nest base and trim plate to the steel plate.
8. Attach the Nest base
Pull the wires through the center of the base,
then attach it to the wall with the screws.
9. Connect wires
After all the wires are securely connected,
push them down to make sure they’re flush
with the base.
3/8 in
The exposed wire should be straight.
10. Attach the display
Press the display onto the base until it clicks.
11. Switch the power back on
Breaker box
Switch