Nectre 15 LE
Operating Instructions
Efficient—Warm—Friendly
Keep instructions in a safe place for future reference
Do not throw away
Pecan Engineering Pty Ltd proudly supports the activities of Landcare Australia through its membership of the AHHA
USER INSTRUCTIONS
Before use of this appliance please read these instructions
fully.
WARNING: ANY MODIFICATION OF THE APPLIANCE THAT
HAS NOT BEEN APPROVED IN WRITING BY THE TESTING
AUTHORITY IS CONSIDERED AS BREACHING AS/NZS 4013.
WARNING: DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR
AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.
WARNING: DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR
AEROSOLS IN THE VICINITY OF THIS APPLIANCE WHEN IT
IS OPERATING.
WARNING: DO NOT STORE FUEL WITHIN HEATER
INSTALLATION CLEARANCES.
WARNING: WHEN OPERATING THIS APPLIANCE AS AN
OPEN FIRE USE A FIRE SCREEN.
WARNING: OPEN AIR CONTROL (AND DAMPER WHEN
FITTED) BEFORE OPENING FIRING DOOR.
CAUTION: THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD NOT BE OPERATED
WITH A CRACKED GLASS.
CAUTION: THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD BE MAINTAINED AND
OPERATED AT ALL TIMES IN ACCORDANCE WITH THESE
INSTRUCTIONS.
CAUTION: THE USE OF SOME TYPES OF PRESERVATIVE-
TREATED WOOD AS A FUEL CAN BE HAZARDOUS.
The appliance or flue system should not be modified in any
way without the written approval of the manufacturer.
Extractor fans or cooker hoods must not be placed in the
same room or space as this can cause appliance to emit
smoke into the room.
SERIAL NUMBER
This number is required when ordering spare parts or
making warranty claims. This can be found on the appliance
specification label on the rear heat shield
Refer to photo below for location of serial number.
AIR CONTROLS
Cleanburn technology and greater efficiency
The air spindle on the door controls the primary air to the
base of the fire. This controls the burn rate of the fire.
A tool for opening and closing the air spindle is supplied
with the heater. This can be used in instances when the
spindle control is too hot to touch. Alternatively, a glove or
equivalent can be used to adjust the air spindle.
A 2mm gap at the top of the door allows additional
secondary air to enter the firebox, washing over the door
glass keeping it clean while also supplying necessary oxygen
to the fire when the air spindle has been fully closed.
DOOR HANDLE
Warning: door handle may get hot if appliance has been
left in High burn setting for extended period of time. In
which case use a protective glove or equivalent to open.
Open air spindle before opening door to eliminate chance
of backdraft.
1. INTRODUCTION
First few times the appliance is lit, it will give off some
odorous fumes. This is caused by the paint curing.
Once the paint has cured it will not re-occur.
Keep the room well ventilated until these fumes have
cleared.
Burn only seasoned timber with a moisture content of
less than 20%.
Newly cut wood should be allowed to dry/season for
12 to 18 months before use.
Wood should be stored in an environment protected
from the weather to minimise any potential moisture
content.
For best results, wood should not exceed 280mm in
length and 150mm diameter. Any larger and appliance
will not operate at its optimum. It is better to burn
several smaller pieces of wood than one large single
piece.
Poor quality timber:
o Causes low combustion efficiency
o Produces poor emissions (smokey)
o Results in additional build up of creosote (soot) in
the flue which will then require regular cleaning
and may result in a flue fire
WARNING: Do not burn painted, impregnated/treated
wood, manufactured board products or pallet wood.
Place firelighters or paper and dry kindling wood in the
base of the firebox.
Light the paper or firelighters.
Open the air spindle control on the door fully by
turning it anti-clockwise to its full extent.
Leave the door slightly open as the fire establishes and
the glass warms to avoid the build-up of condensation.
Add larger pieces of wood. Too many logs may
smother the fire.
Close the door.
The appliance works optimally when there is a layer of
ash in the base of the firebox. This will take a few
burns before a reasonable ash bed has been
established.
Maximum Heat Output:
After establishing the fire and loading it with larger
pieces of wood, leave it running with the air spindle
fully open.
This setting will generate maximum heat output.
Running the appliance with the door open will not
produce maximum heating in the room as it will draw
a lot of already warmed air out of the room.
Do not overload firebox with fuel.
Note that this setting is not the most energy efficient
as some heat is lost up the flue instead of being
transferred into the room. However, particulate
emissions will be very low, i.e. no smoke, which is
good.
Low Heat Output:
The heat output on the appliance can be reduced by
closing the air spindle which will restrict the oxygen
supplied to the fire and slow down the rate at which
the wood burns.
This setting will provide the best energy efficiency as
the wood burns for longer. However, if not operated
correctly may result in higher particulate emissions.
Prior to closing air spindle ensure that the fire is
burning briskly. This may require opening the air spindle
for 5-10mins before shutting down.
The air spindle can be adjusted to any position so desired
depending on wanted heat output versus burn time.
4. LIGHTING THE FIRE
5. RUNNING THE APPLIANCE
2. USING APPLIANCE FOR THE FIRST TIME
3. RECOMMENDED FUELS
Reload with more wood:
1. Open air spindle before opening door.
2. Rake / break up any existing coals.
3. Load the wood with the length orientated front to
back .
4. Better results will be achieved by loading several
smaller pieces of wood than one large piece.
5. Close door with air spindle open, and leave for
minimum of 10 minutes to allow the fresh wood to
catch.
6. After 10 or more minutes, the air spindle can be
adjusted to the desired setting.
Fuel Quality
1. Use wood with a moisture content of less than 20%.
Logs should not feel moist or damp, or have moss and
fungal growths.
2. Symptoms related to wet wood:
Difficulty starting and keeping a fire burning well
Smoke and only small flames
Dirty glass and/or fire bricks
Rapid creosote build-up in the flue/chimney
Low heat output
Short burn times, and blue/grey smoke from the
flue/chimney outlet
3. If on the rare occasion the wood is not ideally seasoned,
still retaining some moisture, continue using the top air
slide to determine the heat output and burn rate but
also leave the bottom air slide open 3-4mm. This will
allow some extra oxygen into the base of the fire
allowing it to burn hotter.
4. Run the appliance at high heat output for a short period
each day to avoid large build-up of tars and creosote
within the appliance and flue.
Flue Draught
The flue has two main functions:-
1. To remove smoke, gases and fumes from the appliance.
2. To provide a sufficient amount of draught (suction) in
the appliance to ensure the fire keeps burning.
Draught is caused by the rising hot air in the flue when the
fire has been lit.
The position, height and size of the flue can affect the
performance of the flue draught. Refer to installation guide
for details on flue installation.
Factors affecting the flue draught include:
Insufficient flue height
Trees or other buildings nearby causing turbulence
High and gusty winds
Outside temperature and weather conditions
Blocked flue
For advice on the correction of persistent flue problems
consult your supplier/installer for more detail.
Depending on the type of wood burnt and frequency, the
ashes will need removing every 2 to 6 weeks.
Excess ashes should be removed when necessary, placed in
a non-combustible container with a tightly fitting lid and
moved outdoors immediately to a location clear of
combustible materials.
Leave a small amount of ash, approximately 10mm thick, in
the bottom of the firebox. This helps to insulate the base of
the firebox.
If a flue/chimney fire occurs:
Shut air spindle control fully to smother the fire
Do not use the appliance after a flue fire until an
accredited installer has assessed the cause and any
resultant damage.
The appliance, when cool, can be cleaned with a damp
cloth.
Over the years, the black paint will fade and can be
touched up with Stove Bright metallic black paint.
To clean the glass, we recommend using a household
window cleaner or general purpose cleaner with a soft
cloth.
Do not use abrasive cleaner or scourer pads.
6. BURNING TIPS
7. ASH REMOVAL
8. FLUE/CHIMNEY FIRE
9. CLEANING PAINT WORK & GLASS
Check inside of flue prior to each season for any build-up of
creosote (wood tar). To do this:-
1. First remove the baffle (refer to “2. Replacement of
Baffle” under Maintenance & Servicing section).
2. Using a small mirror and torch hold the mirror on an
angle below the flue with the torch shining at it and
look for black creosote build-up. If only a fine black
powdery layer then that is normal, but if built up
layers of creosote can be seen, then the flue needs
cleaning.
3. Refit the baffle if no cleaning is required.
To clean the flue:-
1. A flue cleaning brush can be purchased from most
wood heater retail outlets or large hardware stores.
2. The objective is to pull the brush down through the
flue.
3. With the baffle removed, tie a rope to one end of the
brush, and drop the rope from the top (outside on top
of the roof) down the flue.
4. Grab the end of the rope inside the firebox and pull
the brush through.
5. Check the inside of the flue with the mirror and torch.
Repeat if necessary.
6. Once clean, remove any excess creosote from the
firebox and replace the baffle.
Alternatively, get a flue cleaning service to do the job for you
(it’s a dirty job).
Check flue integrity by checking that the 900mm flue
sections have not separated at the joins.
1. Glass in door blackening
This can have several possible causes:
i) Burning unseasoned wood — if the wood is too wet, it
will cause the glass to blacken.
ii) Appliance operated at low temperature — after an
overnight burn where the air spindle control has been
fully closed, the glass may have blackened. When the
fire is re-stoked and burning on the high heat setting,
the blackened glass should self-clean.
iii) Problems with the flue — insufficient flue draught can
cause the glass to blacken. If the flue is too short, not
properly insulated, or in a position that results in a
downdraught, then there will be insufficient flue
draught. Contact the installer should this happen.
2. Trouble starting the fire — if all ash has been removed
from the firebox, then it can upset the supply of air to
the base of the fire. It can aid the fire by retaining some
ash when cleaning out the firebox.
3. Glass cracking — Do not over tighten the screws on the
stainless steel strips that hold the door glass in place.
Otherwise, expansion of the cast iron door may cause
the glass to crack.
10. CLEANING THE FLUE
11. TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS
MAINTENANCE and SERVICING
The purpose of the firebricks in the appliance is to increase
thermal mass and to guarantee the longevity of the steel
firebox. Over time the firebricks may become cracked and
crumble away. If so, then they should be replaced soon
after.
To replace the firebricks:
i) Move any ash away from the base of the bricks.
ii) Raise the brick retainer so that the bricks can be
removed.
iii) Replace with new bricks, and refit brick retainer.
1. The side and rear fire bricks will need to be removed
before the old brick retainer can be removed.
2. Hold new brick retainer on an angle so that it can get
through the door opening.
3. Once inside the firebox, hold it up while the firebricks
are placed back into their original position.
4. Refit the retainer over the top of the firebricks holding
them in place.
The 6mm thick steel baffle helps to retain the heat in the
firebox by lengthening the path of the flame so that they do
not go straight up the flue.
Over time, the baffle will begin to sag a little due to the
excessive heat. This will not affect the way the fire burns.
Eventually the baffle will burn through (5+ years) and if so
will need to be replaced.
To remove the baffle:
i) Raise the brick retainer, and remove all the
firebricks. Brick retainer can be left in the base of the
firebox.
ii) Slide the baffle forward so that it can be lowered at
the back.
iii) Lowering the rear of the baffle will allow the front of
the baffle to slide past the front support rods on the
sides of the firebox so that the baffle now can be
rested in the base of the firebox.
iv) Raise the baffle on a sideways angle and remove.
v) Repeat steps i) to iv) in reverse to replace with the
new baffle.
This task may be easier with the door removed from the
appliance and laid horizontally on a work-bench.
To replace the door glass:
i) Two stainless steel strips hold the glass in place.
Remove the four M4 size Phillips head screws from the
stainless steel strips.
ii) Take out the glass, and check if the grey rope beneath
needs replacing. If so replace this rope as well.
iii) Position the new glass on top of the grey rope and re-
fit the stainless steel strips and M4 screws.
iv) Take extra care not to over-tighten the screws,
otherwise the glass will crack when the heater gets
hot and the door expands.
v) On occasion, the M4 screws will have deteriorated
from the constant heat in the firebox resulting in them
snapping off when trying to loosen them. In this case,
a new hole can be drilled in the door and tapped using
a 3.4mm drill bit, and M4 tap.
1. REPLACEMENT OF FIREBRICKS
3. REPLACEMENT OF BAFFLE PLATE
4. FITTING A NEW DOOR GLASS
Baffle plate
Brick retainer
2. REPLACEMENT OF BRICK RETAINER
Fire bricks
Support rods
This task may be easier with the door removed from the
appliance and laid horizontally on a work-bench.
i) Remove any old seal from the door.
ii) Clean out the groove in the door that the seal was
bedded in using a flat-end screw driver or equivalent.
iii) Run a thin bead of clear roof and gutter silicone along
the groove.
iv) Starting at one end, press the new door seal rope into
the groove on the door.
v) Refit the door if it has been removed and close.
If the door does not close firmly, then the door latch can be
adjusted.
In the front lower right-hand corner of the door opening,
inside the firebox, is a welded tab which the door latch
secures against when the door is closed. Using a large flat-
end screw driver, place it under the base of the tab and
gently lever it out.
Close the door with the door handle to test for any
improvement. If no improvement, repeat process until door
can be closed firmly.
Firebricks:
9 x full bricks – 234(h) x 118(w) x 40(d)mm
2 x triangular bricks – 70(h) x 58(d)mm
Baffle Plate:
440(w) x 260(d) x 75(h) in 6mm steel
Brick Retainer:
410mm x 345mm
Glass seal:
1080mm 8mm x 3mm
Glass:
333mm x 195mm x 5mm Pyro ceramic glass
Door rope:
900mm x 13mm round braided ceramic rope
5. FITTING A NEW DOOR SEAL
6. ADJUSTING DOOR LATCH
7. REPLACEMENT SPARE PARTS LIST
WARRANTY
Pecan Engineering Pty. Ltd. warrants this stove to be able to operate under normal use and service and within 10 years
from the date of the original purchase on the terms herein shall repair or replace without cost to the original customer
any part thereof which shall be returned to our factory, transportation charges prepaid and which our inspection shows
would prevent operation.
This warranty does not apply to firebricks, brick retainer, baffle, door seal, glass, nor discolouration of the surface or
tarnishing of chrome fittings all of which require normal service to maintain them.
Under the terms of this warranty, Pecan Engineering Pty. Ltd. assumes no responsibility for the labour costs involved in
removing or replacing the stove. Nor shall Pecan Engineering Pty. Ltd. be liable for any injury, loss, or damage (direct,
indirect or consequential) arising out of the use or inability to use the product, or its removal and replacement. All other
stove warranties, expressed or implied are excluded to the extent possible to law. Any claims against Pecan Engineering
Pty. Ltd. must be brought within Australian Jurisdiction.
The Retailer does not have the authority to alter this warranty.
MANUFACTURER NAME & ADDRESS:
Pecan Engineering Pty. Ltd.
13 Acorn Road
Dry Creek
South Australia, 5094
Phone: +61 8 8349 8332
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