1. Cut a 4 inch piece of ¾ inch diameter black heatshrink and slip it on
to the cable.
2. Remove ~3 inches of the outer jacket by bending the cable and
cutting at the bend with a sharp blade.
3. Separate wires 6, 12, 13, 14, 15, and 16. Cut them in half. Use the
resistor color code to number wires. (Ex. Black-Brown stripe = 01,
Black-Red stripe = 02, Black-Blue = 06, Brown-Red = 12, BrownOrange = 13, Brown-Yellow = 14, Brown-Green = 15, Brown-Blue
= 16.)
4. Cut the nylon core.
5. Cut 12 ½-inch pieces of 3/32 inch diameter black heatshrink and
place it on wires 1-12.
6. Strip ~1 inch of the jacket off cables 1-12 and remove the foil.
7. Separate the 3 wires and place clear 1/32 inch diameter clear
heatshrink on the bare ground wire. To cut the proper length slide
the clear heatshrink all the way on to the wire, then place the
cutters so that it leaves ~1/8 inch of wire at the end. Hold the
cutters place, lift the clear tube free from the wire, then cut.
8. Slide the piece of black heatshrink over the 3 wires and the clear
heatshrink and shrink it with a heatgun.
9. Strip ~1/8 inch off the end of the other wires.
10.Proceed to crimp the pins on to cables 1-12. Be sure to use
the smaller gauge crimp.
11.Now prepare the power and ground wires (13,14 = GND, 15
= +29V, 16 = -29V) by stripping off ~1/4 inch and also
completely stripping the 3 inner wires and shorting them together.
Wires 13 and 14 have all 6 wires twisted together.
12.Next is to prepare the male DL connector. For the GND,
+29V, and -29V rows you will have to crimp 18 pins with a stiff,
solid wire. We use a gold plated jewelery wire.
13.Insert them in to row H first. It is VERY IMPORTANT that you
look at and take notice of the markings on the connector so that
you do not accidentally pin it up-side down. Cut the wires so that
only 1/8 inch of the wire is sticking up.
14.Bend the wires down with a flat head screwdriver so that
they form a row. Solder them together.
15.Do steps 13-14 to rows J and K. Careful not to solder the
rows together.
16.Place a small piece of black heatshrink on the GND,+, and -.
GND will use a slightly larger diameter heatshrink.
17.One end of the cable will have the wires arranged so that it
will comfortably connect to the connector. The other end will be
mirrored. In the case of the mirrored side, you should split the short
wires in to two even groups and then bend them around all the
other wires.
18.Solder wire 15 to row H. It should come on from the left side.
19.Solder the remaining ground and -29V wire. Ground should
come in from the right side and wire 16 from the left. This is tricky
so be patient and take your time to make sure that you do not
solder the rows together and short them.
20.Insert wires 6 and 12 now. Refer to the DL pinout diagram
which can be found in the PQ manual or at the end of this guide.
The colored wire is +, the clear copper wire is -, and the silver wire
that you put clear heatshrink over is the shield.
21.Check for shorts between the power rows with a meter. Once
verified that there are indeed no shorts, hot glue the 3 rows so that
they dont move around.
22.Now insert wires 7-11, starting with 11 first. It is easiest to
insert the shield first, then -, then +.
23.Insert 1-5, starting with 5.
24.Now push and bend the wires so that they are flat and close
to the connector. Slide the 4 inch ¾ diameter heatshrink up as far
as you can and shrink it.
25.Prepare your DL cover.
26.Secure the half of the DL cover that has the cover tab. You'll
have to maneuver the large cable through the opening to have it fit
easily.
27.Snap the other half on. It is easiest if you slide the remaining
half on upright from the side. You will have to bend the locking
tabs on top a little bit with a flathead for the two halves to snap
together. Make sure the cover tab does not get stuck under the
other half. It should sit on top. Also be sure that the cable does not
get pinched between the two halves.
28.Insert the top part of the strain relief by placing the tab in the
hole upright, then push it down on to the cable. You might have to
spread it open a little bit.
29.Insert the bottom part in the same fashion. Once in, stick the
large screw through both pieces and then secure it with a nut. Try
not to let the heatshrink get pinched between where the bottom
and top piece meet. After the strain relief is secured you can reheat
the heatshrink to get rid of any scratches or if it was stretched.
30.Screw the handle on and you have completed assembly of the
DL connector.
The female connector is similar in construction except that you dont cut
wires 6,12,13,14,15, and 16 in half, and it is mirrored to the male DL.
IMPORTANT!: ALWAYS MAKE SURE TO MATCH THE CORRECT WIRE TO
THE CORRECT ROW AND COLUMN.