Free length -inches. 2-31/32
Test length -inches. 2-15/32
Testload-pounds 9-1/2
regulating valve
Valve diameter -inch. Location
.6205 -.6215
In crankcase
Special Torques (foot pounds)
Cylinder head 45
Main bearing. 55
Connecting rod 16
Flywheel. 45
Idler gear retainer bolt. 90
Manifold 20
Spark plugs 30
Pressure
1-9
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the ground cable from the ~
battery, and the wires from the headlights.
2. Remove the headlights. Shut off
fuel at the fuel strainer and disconnect
the fuel line. Remove the hood and fuel
tank assembly.
3. Block the front axle on both sides
with wooden wedges (2). Support the
rear of the tractor with the support
standst FES 142-1.
4. Remove the pipe plug located in
the bottom of the steering gear housing
assembly (6) and drain the coolant.
5. Disconnect and reDlove the vvater
inlet (3) and outlet elbovvs (4).
6. Remove the water inlet nipple
from the R. H. side of the steering gear
housing.
'? Remove the screws securing the
cooling fan housing (5) to the radiator.
8. Disconnect the steering shaft
bracket (2) from the steering support
arm (3).
~: The front axle and radiator
assembly must be supported by a stand
or jack to prevent it from tippingbackward.
9. Remove the two bolts and two cap
screws between the engine and steering
gear housing.
ENGINE
1-10
10. Raise the engine so the fan drive
pulley (1) clears the steering gear housing (2) and roll the front axle away from
the engine.
11. Attach the lifting brackets (3)
FES 100, to the engine and support it
with a sling (4), FES 138, and a hoist.
12. Perform a front section split to
remove the engine from the clutch hous-
ing (2). (Refer to "Front Section split",
Section 4.)
1-11
ENGINE INSTALLATION
1. If the clutch assembly was removed from the engine, use a pilot shaft
to center the clutch driven disc. (Refer
to clutch "Installation", Section 5.)
2. Support the engine using the lifting
brackets, lifting sling and a hoist, and
position the engine on the clutch housing.
3. Install the two cap screws and the
nuts and bolts in the engine and clutch
housing. Tighten to 55 and 35 ft. lbs.
torque respectively.
4. Install the clutch housing cover and
secure with the nuts and bolts. Install
the clutch housing hand hole cover if it
was removed.
5. Connect the wiring harness wires
to the coil, ground, regulator and lights.
Connect the wire to the starter.
6. Using a new gasket and O-rings,
install the hydraulic manifold tubes to the
pUInp and the cylinder block assembly.
7. Install the governor control rod.
8. Install the choke control rod.
9. Install the exhaust pipe.
10. Position the steering gear housing
assembly (2) on the front of the engine.
11. Install the cooling fan housing on
the radiator.
12. Install the cap screws and bolts
securing the steering gear housing to
the engine.
13. Connect the steering shaft bracket
to the steering shaft support arm.
1-12
14. Install the water inlet nipple in the
steering gear housing.
recommended coolant. (Refer to
Operator's Manual.)
15. Install and connect the water inlet
and outlet elbows and hoses.
16. Install the pipe plug in the steering
gear housing and fill the radiator with the
Removal
1. Remove the pipe plug in the bottom
of the steering gear housing and drain
the coolant.
2. Disconnect and remove the head-
lights.
17. Install the hood and fuel tank as-
sembly. Connect the fuel line to the fuelstrainer.
18. Connect the wires to the lights and
the ground wire to the battery.
HEAD
4. Remove the water outlet elbow
and hose.
Remove the spark plugs.
3. Disconnect the fuel line from the
fuel strainer. Remove the hood and fuel
tank from the tractor.
6. Remove the cylinder head capscrews,
and remove the cylinder head
and gasket from the engine.
1. Check the head and gasket for
"blow-by" or compression leaks.
2. Remove carbon from combustion
chamber cavities with a wire brush.
3. Clean cylinder head combustion
cavities with cleaning solution.
Carefully inspect head for cracks.
CYLINDER
5.
4.
1-13
Installation
5. Use a straight edge and inspect for
warped head, particularly in any area
which shows "blow-by. II
6. Inspect water jacket in head for an
acc~ation of rust or lime depositwhich
would affect circulation of cooling
water and cause hot spots. Clean ifnecessary.
7. Thoroughly clean the gasket surfaceto
insure proper sealing of the new gasket.
Be sure to use a ~ gasket.
1. Using a new gasket, install the cyl-
inder head on the engine.
2. Install the cylinder head cap screws.
Using the sequence shown, tighten evenly
in steps to 45 ft. lbs. torque. Be sure to
install all brackets and mounting clips
under the cap screw heads before tighten-
9
8
12
FESM-3249
ing.
3. Install the spark plugs and tighten
to 30 ft. lbs. torque.
4. Install the water outlet elbow andhose.
5. Install the hood and fuel tank and
connect the fuel line.
6. Install the headlights and connectthe
wires.
8.
7.
1-14
Refill the radiator with coolant.
Valve lash Adjusting Procedure
Following the simplified procedure in the
chart below, all valves can be adjusted
accurately. Note that the engine does notneed
to be cranked four times to positionthe
piston of each cylinder on T .D.C. All
valves are adjusted by cranking the engine
only twice.
Four valves are adjusted when the No.1
piston is at T .D.C. (compression) and the
remaining four are adjusted when the
No.4 piston is at T .D.C. (compression).
1. Remove the intake and exhaust
manifold assembly. Remove the valve
tappet cover. Clean the gasket mating
areas to insure proper sealing when re-assembled.
2. Check the entire valve assembly
for rust and dirt. Inspect for looseness
in the valve assembly and for worn or
broken valve springs.
3. Remove the spark plugs from No.1
cylinder (nearest the radiator) and No.4
cylinder.
4. Place a thumb over the No.1 spark
plug opening and slowly hand crank the
engine until an outward pressure can be
felt. Pressure indicates the piston is
moving toward top dead center of the
compression stroke.
5. Continue cranking slowly until the
T .D.C. mark (1) on the fan drive pulley
(3) is in line with the timing pointer (4)
on the crankcase front cover.
~ : Valve tappets have self-locking
tappet screws. Adjustment requires two
wrenches, one to hold the tappet and one
to turn the tappet screw.
VALVES
1-15
6. Insert the feeler gauge between the
valve tappet and the valve stem. The
specified clearance is .015 inch (engine
cold). Turn the adjusting screw in or out
as necessary to give a slight drag on the
feeler gauge. Adjust the four valves
specified in the chart on page 1-15.
7. Crank the engine until the No.4
piston is on T .D.C. (compression) and the
T .D.C. mark (1) on the fan drive pulley is
in line with the timing pointer (4). (Refer
to illustration on page 1-15.) Adjust the
remaining four valves.
8. Install the valve cover being sure
to use a new gasket. Check for any oilleaks.
9. Install the intake manifold with a
new gasket.
Removing Valves
~: When valve assemblies are re-
moved, all parts should be kept in order.
They may then be reinstalled in the same
ports, from which removed, if they are to
be used for further service.
1. Drain the cooling system and re-
move the cylinder head.
2. Remove the intake and exhaust
manifold assembly.
3. Remove the valve tappet cover, and
turn down the tappet screws several turns
so the springs may be removed easily
and t9 prevent interference with valve
stems after seats and faces are reground.
1-16
with a valve spring compressor (2) and
remove the valve spring seat keys (1).
Be careful not to compress the springs
more than necessary as they can be
distorted.
seats and valve springs. Be sure to keep
valves in order so they may be installed
in the same port.
camshaft must be removed.
Inspection
4. Compress the valve springs
5. Remove the valves, valve spring
~ : To remove the tappets the
-,~, ~ 7--Valve
':!;i~1ii,\:;~~:::::,',"""."",',':"".
Ql-J ~ Valve spring
Engine block ~ ~
Valve spring
seat key I
..(1.:);;:,;;:[,:'(!,
Valve guide
spring seat
Adjusting screw
Tappet
Tappet guide
Cam
General
Carbon deposits on the valves and valve
seats are normal and cannot be avoided
completely. However, such deposits are
detrimental to engine efficiency and valve
assembly life as the amount of carbon in
the engine increases.
The rotating mechanism (if equipped)
used on the exhaust valves greatly extends the service life of the valves.
Valves and valve seats should be examined for pitting, burning, warping and
other defects.
The formation of carbon cannot be avoided.
However, it can be held to a minimum by
the use of only good grade fuels and ac-
curate engine timing.
.--Valve
1-17
Camshaft
FfSM-32S2
Warpage, burning and pitting of valves is
mainly directed against the exhaust valves
which are exposed to the high temperature
flow of exhaust gases. Such defects are
generally caused by valves failing to seat
tightly and evenly, permitting exhaust blowby. This, in turn, can generally be traced
to hard particles of carbon being present
on the slopes of the valve seats. It may,
however, be due to weak springs, insuf-
ficient valve clearance, or warpage and
misali.e;nment of the valve stem or guide.
Warpa~e, chiefly occurs on the valve stem
due to its exposure to heat. Out-of-round
wear occurs when the seat has been pounded
by a valve head which is not in line with its
stem or guide.
Misalignment is a result of wear, warpage,
and distortion. Wear, when accentuated by
insufficient lubrication, will eventually
create sloppy clearances with resultant
misalignment.
cylinder head bolts to the specified footpounds torque and in the sequence recommended. Valve clearances are also affected
in this manner. Thus any abnormal wear,warpage
or distortion affecting a valve
guide will destroy its function as an accurate bearing to maintain the valve head
concentric with its seat, and will prevent
leak-proof seating.
Oil and air sucked past worn intake valve
stems and guides into the combustion
chamber, cause excessive oil consumption,
form excessive carbon, and dilute fuel.
Examine the engine for signs which may
indicate the reason for the need of valve
reconditioning. Dry and rusted valve
springs are an indication that the oil passages to the valve levers may be blocked,
causing wear on the valves and guides, and
resulting in improper valve action. A de-
fective gasket under the valve cover will
permit the entrance of dirt which will
cause undue wear on the valve stems andguides
and damage to the valve springs.
Warpage of the valves, and in known ex-
treme instances, that of the crankcase, can
result from the engine overheating due to a
blocked, dirty or insufficiently filled cool-
ing system.
Most frequE;'!ntly, however, warpage of a
valve stem or a guide is due to uneven temperatures being applied along its length.
The lower part of the guide and stem is
near the combustion heat, and the upper
portions are closer to cylinder head waterpassages.
Valve materials are carefully
chosen to withstand such varying temperatures. However, an engine that is allowed
to operate continually in an overheated con-
dition is definitely open to valve stem and
guide distortion and warpage. Distortion
can also be caused by failure to tighten
Valves
1. Remove all carbon from the valve
head and stem. Valve stems should be
lightly polished with an extremely fine
abrasive cloth sufficiently to remove the
carbon deposits only. Because of the
nature of the valve deposits, solvent cleaning ordinarily will not remove all the deposits from the valves. Wire brushes will
do this job satisfactorily, but only brasswire
brushes should be used since steel
brushes may scratch the surface. Such
scratches are likely to cause localized
stresses in an operating valve and may
eventually result in fatigue fractures of
the valve. For similar reasons the use of
coarse emery paper should be avoided.
1-18
2. Inspect each valve. See that the
stem is not worn excessively and that the
head is not burned or warped. Check the
WRONG
CORRECT
WRONG
FEA-64460
grooves in the stem to see that they have
not lost the shoulders through wear, which
prevents the valve seat retainer keys from
fitting snugly.
3. All valves having bent, worn, warped
or seriously pitted stems should be re-
placed. Replace any valve that cannot be
satisfactorily refaced with a definite mar-
gin maintained. The amount of grinding
necessary to true the valve face is a def-
inite indication of the valve head warpage
from the axis or centerline of its stem.
With excessive warpage, a knife edge will be
ground on part or all of the valve head due
to the considerable amount of metal that
must be removed to completely reface.
Maximum heaviness in a valve head is required for strength and to provide as large
an area as possible for heat dissipation.
Knife edge valves lead to breakage and
warpage.
4. Clean and examine all valve springs
for rust, pitting, broken or set coils. Test
each spring against the spring specif\ca-
tions (see "Specifications II) using a spring
load tester. Replace all springs that do not
meet specifications.
5. Clean all valve spring seats with
solvent, and examine them for rust, cracks
and bending characteristics. Replace parts
as necessary.
Valve ::>eat Retainer Keys
Clean parts thoroughly in solvent. Check
the ribs in the inside of the keys to see that
none are worn sufficiently to cause loose-
ness. The keys must fit snugly into the
valve stem groove. Check the keys for
wear on the outside surface which might
allow the valve spring retainer to slide
over the key.
1-19
Valve Guides
Clean the bores of the valve guides, using awire
rifle brush and solvent. Blowout all
carbon with compressed air. Position a
light at the bottom of the guide bore, and
examine the walls for burning, cracking and
signs of excessive wear. Check the inside
diameter of the guide bore at several points
around its circumference and along its
length. Replace any guides considered un-
serviceable or that appear close to a
serviceable borderline.
~: All valve reconditioning equip-
ment requires the installation of a pilot in
the valve guide to produce a seat concentric
with the guide bore. For this reason the
guides must be clean and meet the engine
specifications before the valve seats can be
reconditioned.
Valve Seats
Remove all carbon and any remaining gas-
ket material from the crankcase surface.
Inspect all valve seats for cracks. Re-
move the carbon from the valve seat recesses or counterbores.
Rotocap
When the Rotocap is in operation, the valve
spring is compressed (valve opened), the
bellville washer is brought to bear on the
steel balls. This causes the balls to roll
down the ramp in the retainer thus rotating
the valve.
Testing Rotators
Use any valve spring tester and a steel
ball placed on an inner sleeve, then
rapidly oscillate the load.
You should perform this oscillation up tothe
test load indicated in "Specifications".
Be sure the rotator is lubricated internally.
The rotators should be cleaned, checked
and reinstalled at each overhaul period.
1-20
Observing the operation of the valves prior
to tear-down of the engine is beneficial in
preventing unnecessary checking of worn
rotators. Mark the valves with a pencil as
movement is relatively slight.
Reconditioning
Valve Guides
1. Press the g11ides from the crankcase.
2. Install new guides from the top of the
crankcase, and press them into the crankcase bores to a measured distance of
1-3/32 inch from the top surface of the
block to the top center of the guide.
3. All guides furnished as service
parts are reamed to size; however, as they
are a press fit, it is necessary to burnish
them after installation to remove any
possible burrs or slight distortion caused
by the pressing operation.
Valves
After being thoroughly cleaned and inspected,
valves that are fit for continued use should
be reconditioned as follows:
1. Set the valve refacing machine to
grind the specified angle of 45-1/2 degrees
and dress the grinding stone.
2. Insert a valve in the chuck and take
a light cut across its face. This is a check
to determine whether the valve can be reconditioned to service standards with a cor-
rect amount of margin maintained. Warp-
age that may not be apparent in the visual
inspection will be clearly definable.
1-21
Avoid taldng heavy grinding cuts as this
heats the valve head excessively, producing
an unsatisfactory valve face, and necessi-
tates dressing the grinding wheel frequent-
ly. Repeated light grinding cuts are preferred until a true face of even width is obtained around the valve. Avoid passing the
stone beyond the face of the valve as this
will cause ridging and grooving of the
stone surface and make dressing of the
stone necessary. Reject all valves with
distorted heads which produce an uneven
face and valves which grind down to a thin
edge.
One of the principal difficulties in recondi-
tioning valves is to obtain nearly identical
angles on the valve seat and valve face.
The importance of these angles in the
grinding operation cannot be overempha-
sized, because it is impossible to produce
a flat or square seat by lapping.
The grinding stones on both the valve re-
facing machine and valve seat grinder
should be dressed before starting a re-
conditioning job.
You will be unable to determine how closely
the angle of the seat will match the valve
face until the valve and seat have been
ground and a check made with a very light
tint of Prussian blue. If a full seat-width
contact around the entire circle of seated
valve is not shown, the angles do not match.
It will then be necessary to redress the
valve seat grinding stones, changing the
angle sufficiently to correct the error. The
correction should be made on the valve
seat, and not on the valve. No more
material should be removed from the valve
face than.is necessary to true it up and remove the burned or pitted portion. New
valves should not be refaced, but should be
checked for trueness. When a satisfactory
match of valve seat and valve face angles
has been obtained, the adjustment of both
the valve refacer and the seat grinder should
be locked in position, in order to eliminate
this trial-by-error method on additional
valves having the same angle.
At times unusually large amounts of heat
scale may be found on exhaust valves,
which is hard on the grinding stone. Fre-
quent redressing of the stone will be neces-
sary to maintain a smooth even surface and
a uniform set of valve face angles.
After refacing each valve, inspect the end
of the stem. If wear is noticeable, reface
the end of the stem. Grind sufficiently to
true-up the end of the stem.
Perhaps it has been noticed that on many
International Harvester Farm Eq11ipment
engines, the valve face and seat are ground
to an "interference angle". This means
that the sum of the seat angle and the face
angle do not equal 90 degrees.
1-22
~;~'i":,
This is done to avoid the possibility of
grinding a reverse interference angle, and
to help prevent the accumulation of combustion deposits on valve faces and seats.
It is nearly impossible for anyone to grind
perfectly matching angles.
Grinding of valves to an interference angle
provides line contact of the valve face to
the seat for the first few hours of operation, allowing the valve and seat to "wear
in" to a good tight contact. Interference
angle has the effect of increasing the pres-
sure per square inch on the seat, thus
causing any deposits which cling to the face
or seat to be squeezed out of the way and
eventually blown out.
Seats
The primary purpose of a valve seat is to
seal the combustion chamber against pres-
sure losses and to provide a path to dis-
sipate the heat accumulated in the valve
head so as to prevent burning of the seat
and warping of the valve head.
The location of the valve seat on the valve
face and its width, controls the amount ofvalve
head that protrudes into the combustion chamber. It is obvious that the
greater the exposure within the combustion
chamber, the higher the valve temperature;
or in other words, the more heat it will'
collect. High valve temperature and poor
heat dissipation also produce excessivevalve
stem temperatures. This will hastenthe
accumulation of carbon on the stems,
causing them to stick in the guides.
Valve
1-'23
Refacing Seats
Remove all carbon, scale and oil before
attempting to reface valve seats. The
grinding stone, when placed against an oily
seat, will become fouled, and uneven grind-
ing will occur.
~: Before installing the pilot, be
certain that the valve guides are perfectly
clean and meet the engine specifications.
This is important; otherwise, an eccentric
seat will be cut.
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