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Professional Shop Manual
700 Series Riding Tractors
NOTE: These materials are for use by trained technicians who are experienced in the service and repair of outd oor power
equipment of the kind described in this publication, and are no t intended for use by untrained or inexperienced individu als.
These materials are intended to provide supplemental information to assist the trained technician. Untrained or inexperienced individuals should seek the assistance of an experienced and trained professional. Read, understand, and follow all
instructions and use common sense when working on power equipment. This includes the contents of the product’s Operators Manual, supplied with the equipment. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omission in this publication,
although care has been taken to make it as complete and accurate as possible at the time of publication. However, due to
the variety of outdoor power equipment and continuing product changes that occur over time, updates will be made to these
instructions from time to time. Therefore, it may be necessary to obtain the latest materials before servicing or repairing a
product. The company reserves the right to make changes at any time to this publication without prior notice and without
incurring an obligation to make such changes to previously published versions. Instructions, photographs and illustrations
used in this publication are for reference use only and may not depict actual model and component parts.
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Introduction
CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION
Professional Shop manual intent
This Shop Manual is intended to provide service dealers with an introduction to the mechanical aspects of the 700
series tractor.
•Detailed service information about the engine will be provided by the engine manufacturer, in most cases.
Disclaimer: The information contained in this shop manual is correct at the time of writing. Both the product an d the
information about the product are subject to change without notice.
About the text format:
NOTE: is used to point-out information that is relevant to the procedure, but does not fit as a step in the proce-
dure.
! DANGER! DANGER
! WARNING! WA RNIN G
! CAUTION! CA UTION
Bullet points: indicate sub-steps or points.
Disclaimer: This Professional Shop Manual is intended for use by trained, professional technicians.
•Common sense in operation and safety is assumed.
•In no event shall MTD or Cub Cadet be liable for poor text interpretation, or poor execution of the procedures described in the text.
•If the person using this manual is uncomfortable with any procedures they encounter, they should seek
the help of a qualified technician or Cub Cadet Technical Support.
Fasteners
•Most of the fasteners used on the tractor are sized in fractional inches. Some are metric. For this reason,
wrench sizes are frequently identified in the text, and measurements are given in U.S. and metric scales.
Danger indicates an imminently hazardous situation that, if not avoided, will result in death or
serious injury . This signal word is to be limited to the most extreme situations
Warning indicates a potentially hazardous situation that, if not avoi ded, could result in death of
serious injury.
Caution is used to point out potential danger to the technician, operator, bystanders, or surrounding property.
•If a fastener has a locking feature that has worn, replace the fastener or apply a small amount of re leasable threadlocking compound such as Loctite® 242 (blue).
•Some fasteners like cotter pins are single-use items that are not to be reused. Other fasteners such as
lock washers, retaining rings, and internal cotter pins (hairpin clips) may be reused if they do not show
signs of wear or damage. This manual leaves that decision to the judgement of the technician.
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Assembly
Torque specifications may be noted in the part of the text that covers assembly, they may also be summarized in
tables along with special instructions regarding locking or lubrication. Whichever method is more appropriate will be
used. In many cases, both will be used so that the manual is handy as a quick-reference guide as well as a step-bystep procedure guide that does not require the user to hunt for information.
The level of assembly instructions provided will be determined by the complexity and of reassembly, and by the
potential for unsafe conditions to arise from mistakes made in assembly.
Some instructions may refer to other parts of the manual for subsidiary procedures. This avoids repeating the same
procedure two or three times in the manual.
Description of the 700 series
1.Description: A new step-through rider platform was introduced for the ‘05 mowing season. It was design ated
as the 700 series rider . It is seen across many of the MTD brands and private labels. There are also several
hood configurations.The serial number and date codes are the keys to obtaining proper parts and service
information. Since that date, several drive systems have been used on this series.
2.Variations: Drive Systems The 700 series is currently available with three basic drive systems. The 700
refers to the 5th through 7th characters of the model number found under the seat.
•13AN772G000 is a “770” series - 7 speed shift-on-the-go transmission
NOTE: There is also a 760 series with a 6 speed shift-on-the-go transmission
•13WX78KS011 is a “780” series - autodrive variable speed CVT tractor
•13AR791
The 760-770 series is a shift-on-the-go system that uses a simple forward/neutral/reverse transaxle driven by
two belts in a variable speed pulley. A dash mounted speed range control (set s speed of rider). A foot oper ated brake
on the left side of the rider engages the drive when it is released.
The 780 series uses a Autodrive system with the same transmission as the 770 series. The 780, like the 770, has
the brake pedal on the left side of the tractor. A drive pedal on the right side of the tractor controls a variable-speed
pulley (CVT) system that controls the ground speed of the tractor.
The 790 series uses a hydrostatic transaxle. A pedal on the left side of the tractor operates the brake/clutch
pedal while the ground speed and direction of the tractor is controlled by a fen der mounted hand control lever.
G790 is a “790” series - Hydrostatic drive tractor
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Introduction
3.Variations: Cut ting Decks Th ree de cks sizes ar e cur rently a vailable on the 700 series pla tform: 38”, 42” and
46” with twin blades. Within the different deck sizes you may find differe nt configuration s of belt routing, bla de
brakes, Idlers, spindles and blades. The eighth letter in the serial number indicates the de ck used on the rider.
Refer to the correct illustrated parts list when working on the deck and ordering parts.
4.Variations: Other The 700 series plat form will accommodate a variety of single and twin cylinder engines, and
a range of styles and brands will be applied to it. The steel dash panel is common to all 700 series, and plas
tic inserts will be used to match the different hoods used.
5.Spotter’s Guide: The 700 series is visibly similar to the existing step-through platform 600 and 610 series
lawn tractors, but there are substantial differences.
•Deck Engagement: The PTO belt is engaged on the 700 series using a lever on the right fender.
Model and Serial Numbers
The model and serial number tag can be found under the seat.
-
Model number
The serial number is 1C259B40136. The serial number reads as follows:
1...........................engineering level
..C.........................month of production (C = March)
.....25....................day of the month
.........9..................last digit of the year
Serial number
The serial number is located to the right of the model n umber as shown above.
The model number is 13AN772G000 The break down of
what the number mean is as follows:
13.........................lawn tractor
...A.......................sales level
......N.....................engine code
........7...................tractor series
..........7................drive system
............2..............hood style
...............G...........deck
...................000....customer number
...........B................plant it was built in
..............4.............assembly line number
.................0136.....number of unit built
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Engine Related Parts
CHAPTER 2: ENGINE RELATED PARTS
This manual will cover the engine accessories that are manufactured by MTD Products.
IMPORTANT: Refer to the engine manufacturer’s manual for engine specific service information.
Muffler
The engine style on the rider will determine the steps needed to replace the muffler. Refer to the parts manual that
came with the rider for an illustration of the parts on the rider you are servicing.
Remove the muffler by following these steps:
NOTE: The muffler and the exhaust pipes are welded together. They are replaced as one assembly.
1. Remove the hood and bumper by following the steps
described in Chapter 4: Body/Chassis.
2.Remove the two screws on each side of the frame
that secure the muffler guard to the hood support
Hood support bracket
bracket.
3.Remove the muffler guard.
See Figure 2.1.
Muffler guard
Screws attaching muffler guard
Figure 2.1
Muffler flange screws
NOTE: These steps may vary slightly depending upon the
type of engine on the rider.
Disconnect the muffler from the engine.
For single cylinder engines:
1. Remove the two screws that secure the exhaust p ipe
to the cylinder head.
2.Remove the screw that fastens the muffler support
bracket to the cylinder head.
See Figure 2.2.
See Figure 2.2.
Muffler support screw
Figure 2.2
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For twin cylinder engines:
1.Remove the two nuts that secure each exhaust pipe
to the cylinder head. See Figure 2.3.
2.Remove the muffler from the engine.
3.Install the muffler by following the above steps in
reverse order.
4.Install the muffler guard and hood.
5.Test run the tractor before returning to service.
Figure 2.3
Fuel tank removal/replacement
Remove/replace the fuel tank by following these steps:
! CAUTION! CA UTION
•Work in a well-ventilated area.
•Allow the engine to cool fully before starting work on the tractor.
•Eliminate any sources of possible ignition from the work area, including but not limited to: heat sources,
open flame, potential sparks.
The following steps involve working with gasoline. Gasoline is flammable, and steps should
be taken to avoid fire hazard;.
Remove these
nuts
•Clean-up any spilled fuel quickly and properly, disposing of cleaning materials in a way that will not produce a further fire hazard.
•Hold any drained fuel in an approved and safe container.
1.Open the hood.
2.Drain the fuel in the fuel tank into an approved container or clamp the fuel line. The steps below demonstrate
removal by clamping off the fuel line.
NOTE: The tank may be drained by mechanical syphon or by disconnecting the fuel line from the fuel filter.
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Engine Related Parts
3.Cut the plastic tie that secures the fuel tank to the gas
tank support bracket.
Fuel tank plastic tie
Figure 2.4
See Figure 2.4.
Hair pin clip
Deck lift cable
Fuel line clamped above support bracket
Figure 2.5
Fuel filter
4.If you did not drain the fuel, raise the fuel tank up off
the support bracket high enough to allow you to
clamp the fuel line above the support bracket.
See Figure 2.5.
NOTE: This will allow you to remove the tank and fuel line
up and out of the support bracket.
5.Using pliers slide the fuel line clamp away from the
fuel filter.
6.Remove the fuel line from the fuel filter nipple.
7.Remove the fuel tank and line from the support
bracket.
See Figure 2.6.
Fuel line clamp moved away from filter
Figure 2.6
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8.Install the fuel tank by following the above steps in
reverse order.
9.Test run the tractor and check for leaks before returning to service.
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CHAPTER 3: STEERING AND FRONT AXLE
STEERING
This section will cover:
•Inspection of steering components
•Changing the front wheel bearings
•Inspecting and removing the axles
•Replacing a stamped steel pivot bar
•Replacing a cast iron pivot bar
•Replacing the steering shaft and steering gear
•Replacing a damaged steering link
•Front end alignment
Steering and Front Axle
GENERAL INFORMATION
The toe angle is not adjustable. The front wheels are kept pointed in the same direction (except for the Ackerman
effect) by a tie-rod with fixed ends. There is an adjustable end on the steering link that connects the steering gear to
the steering arm on the right front axle.
NOTE: The front wheels should exhibit 1/16” to 5/16” (1.6mm - 7.9mm) toe-in.
If the tie-rod is visibly bent, its effective length is shortened, and toe-out will result. Very minor bends may be
straightened. Substantial bends should be repaired by replacing the tie-rod.
A toe-angle problem may also be caused by worn axle bushings or worn wheel bearings: inspect the wheel bearings and axle bushings.
The wheel bearings may be easily examined for play:
1. Safely lift and support the end of the pivot bar that the
Steering Arm
Spacer
Pivot Bar
Bearing
Axle
wheel is attached to.
2.Attempt to wiggle the wheel on a horizontal axis.
• Excessive play indicates worn wheel bearings.
Rocking play (as distinguished from just slipping in
and out on the axle) that exceeds the range of
acceptable toe angle adjustment (5/16” - 1/16” =
4”) is considered excessive.
See Figure 3.1.
1/
Figure 3.1
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Front wheel removal and axle bearing inspection
The wheel bearings are accessible by prying- o ff the
hub-cap, then removing the cotter pin and flat washer that
retain the front tires.
1.Raise the tractor and support it with a jack stand
2.Pry the hubcap from the axle.
3.Remove the cotter pin that holds the wheel to the
axle.
4.Remove the washer.
5.Slide the wheel off the axle.
See Figure 3.2.
Cotter Pin
Flat Washer
Figure 3.2
6.The wheel bearing can be driven out of the rim.
See Figure 3.3.
7.Replace the bearing and install the wheel in the
reverse order of disassembly.
NOTE: On installation, using a new cotter pin, the
pin must be bent tightly around the axle so
that it does not interfere with hub-cap instal
lation.
Left Front Axle Removal
1.Raise the tractor and support it with a jack stand.
2.Remove the wheel and tire as described above.
3.Remove the cotter pin that holds the fixed tie rod to
the axle. See Figure 3.4.
4.Pry off the cap that holds the axle to the pivot par.
Discard the cap and replace it with a new one during
assembly.
-
Wheel Bearing
Grease Fitting
Figure 3.3
Axle Cap
Cotter Pin
NOTE: This cap holds the left axle in place.
Removing the axle allows access to the upper and
lower flange bearing and side axle cap. Inspect these
components for wear or damage and replace if necessary.
Assemble in reverse order of disassembly.
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Figure 3.4
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Right Front Axle Removal
Steering and Front Axle
Steering Arm
Clamp Bolt
Spacer
Cotter Pin
Figure 3.5
Flange Bearing
Side Axle Cap
1. Raise the tractor and support it with a jack stand.
2.Remove the wheel and tire as described above.
3.Remove the cotter pin that fastens the fixed tie rod to
the axle.
4.Loosen the clamp bolt that secures the steering arm
to the square-section at the top of the axle using a
pair of 1/2” wrenches, and lifting the arm off.
NOTE: Note the spacer below the steering arm. Slide the
Removing the axle allows access to the upper and
lower flange bearing and side axle cap. Inspect these
components for wear or damage and repla ce if necessary.
See Figure 3.6.
Assemble in reverse order of disassembly.
See Figure 3.5.
axle from.pivot bar.
General Information
Continued operation with worn bearings will cause rapid
tire wear. If the bushing wears through completely, the
pivot bar will be damaged.
Flange Bearing
Figure 3.6
Pivot Bar
Pivot bars are not normally replaced in the service life of a tractor. The most common reasons for replacing a
pivot bar are:
•Damage caused by dropping the tractor (e.g. while loading or unloading from a truck), or collision with an
object.
•Damage caused by continued use after the axle bushings have deteriorated.
NOTE: Various hood and engine combinations may require using slightly different procedures than listed
below. The most common deviations will be on the muffler and muffler guard removal and the hood
pivot bracket removal. These instructions demonstrate removal of a stamped steel pivot used on most
riders. Procedures for replacing cast iron pivot bars are similar.
Replace any single-use fasteners (push-on caps and
cotter pins) with new ones on reassembly.
Lubricate all friction surfaces with grease such as MTD
P/N 737-0300A upon reassembly.
Tighten the steering arm clamp bolt to a torque of 200260 in-lb. (22.6 Nm-29.4 Nm). Replace the nylon ring lock
nut if it has lost its retaining capabilities.
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To replace the pivot bar:
1.Remove the hood and any side panels.
NOTE: Although it is not strictly necessary, pivot bar removal may be easier if the hood, side p ane ls, and fron t
grill assembly are removed prior to servicing the pivot bar. Refer to the body panel section for removal
information. Also consider removing the cutting deck to ease removal of the pivot bar . Refer to the deck
removal section for procedures.
2.Raise and secure the front of the frame to allow removal of the front wheels.
NOTE: Do not use the pivot bar as a means to suspend the front of the lawn tractor . Place jack stands under
the frame, just behind the pivot bar.
3.Remove the front wheels. Refer to the wheel removal section in this chapter.
4.Remove the cotter pins that secure the tie rod to the
axles. Set the tie rod aside. See Figure 3.7.
NOTE: Discard the cotter pins and replace with new
hardware during assembly.
5.Remove the muffler guard and the muffler. Refer to
the muffler removal section in Chapter 2.
6.Remove both axles from the pivot bar. Refer to the
axle removal sections of this chapter.
7.Remove the two hex screws that fastens the hood
pivot bracket to the frame. Repeat for th e other hood
bracket. See Figure 3.8.
Figure 3.7
Remove these two hex screws
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Figure 3.8
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Steering and Front Axle
8.Remove the shoulder bolts that pass through the
front hanger bracket, front pivot bracket, pivot bar,
and frame.
Remove shoulder bolts and hex nuts
Figure 3.9
See Figure 3.9.
9.Remove the hex screws on the left side of the tractor
that secure the front pivot bracket.
10. Remove the front screw on the right side of the pivot
bracket. Loosen the rear screw. This will allow the
bracket to rotate forward, allowing the pivot bar to be
Remove these three hex screws
Loosen this hex screw
Figure 3.10
•Replacing all of the plastic bushings while the pivot bar is disassembled makes economic and mechanical
sense.
•Grease all moving parts on reassembly, using MTD P/N 737-0300A (Benelene), or similar gre ase.
removed from the frame.
NOTE: Support the pivo t bar during this procedur e. Failure
to do so may allow it to drop from bracket to the
ground.
1. Install in reverse order of disassembly.
Installation notes
• Apply anti-seize compound liberally to all of the
friction surfaces of the pivot bar, particularly the
round boss that serves as the central pivot point.
See Figure 3.10.
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Steering Gear Inspection
It is good practice to check the steering gear wheneve r
a tractor is in for repair:
•Check the alignment in the straight-ahead position.
Alignment procedures will be covered later in this
chapter.
•Turn the wheel to full lock in both directions with
enough force to confirm that the pinion gear is not
slipping.
•Make a visual inspection of the steering gear and
pinion gear, paying particular attention to the condition of the teeth. If either are worn or damaged,
replace the damaged gear and any suspect bushings and hardware.
NOTE: You can replace either the stee ring sh aft or
steering gear independently if needed.
See Figure 3.11.
Steering Shaft
Pinion Gear
Steering Gear
Steering Link Rod
Figure 3.11
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Steering Shaft Replacement
Steering and Front Axle
Steering shaft support
Figure 3.12
Steering shaft end cap
hex screws
1. Remove the steering wheel cap using a screwdriver
2. Remove the hex bolt and bell washer that holds the
steering wheel to the steering shaft using a 1/2”
wrench. Remove the steering wheel
3.Raise the hood and cut the plastic tie securing the
fuel tank to the dash panel. Move the tank slightly to
gain access to the hex screws that fastens the steer
ing shaft support to the dash panel.
4.From under the dash remove the three hex screws
and remove the steering shaft support.
See Figure 3.12.
5.From underneath the rider use a #4 phillips driver to
remove the screw and cap that fastens the steerin g
shaft to the frame of the tractor.
NOTE: This screw is typically installed with Loctite. The
preferred method of removal is with an impact
screwdriver.
See Figure 3.13.
-
Steering shaft screw
Figure 3.13
Steering Shaft
Figure 3.14
Hex Bushing
6.Raise the steering shaft slightly to allow removal of
the hex bushing that centers it in the frame.
See Figure 3.14.
NOTE: The root cause of many steering shaft failures is a
worn bushing. Replace this bushing if it shows any
sign of wear.
7.Remove the steering shaft from the rider. If the pinion
gear teeth are worn or damaged, replace the shaft.
8.Assemble the new steering shaft in the rever se order
of disassembly.
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Steering Gear Replacement
If the steering gear teeth are damaged or missing, the steering gear will need to be replaced. To make the repair
easier, consider moving the fuel tank out of the way and removing the fuel tank brace prior to starting the job. Also
consider disconnecting the wiring harness at the engine connector and moving it out of the way.
To replace the steering gear:
1.If desired, cut the plastic tie and move the fuel tank
out of the way.
2.If desired, remove the four hex screws (two on each
side) that fastens the fuel tank support bracket to the
lower dash panel. Move the bracket out of the way.
3.Optional: Remove the hex screw that fastens the
lower portion of the dash brace to the frame and
remove the brace. See Figure 3.15.
NOTE: Some older model riders do not have this
brace installed. Note that the upper end of
the brace is held in place between the left
dash panel and the fuel tank support
bracket.
Dash Brace
Figure 3.15
4.Remove the flange lock nut that fastens the steering
link rod to the steering gear . Lift the rod up and out of
the way. See Figure 3.16.
5.To remove the steering gear, loosen and remove
both bolts that hold it in place using a pair of 1/2”
wrenches.
NOTE: The bolt near the center of the steering gear
comes-up from the bottom, with the nut on top. The
shoulder bolt that passes through the curved slot
near the steering shaft installs from the top with the
nut on the bottom.
6.Lift away the steering gear stabilizer plate.
NOTE: The two holes near the corners of the stabilizer plate should be oriented away from the steering shaft.
Shoulder bolt through gear
Steering link rod removed
Nut on top
Figure 3.16
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Steering and Front Axle
Spacer
Bushing
Figure 3.17
Steering Link Rod
7. With the stabilizer plate removed, the steering gear,
and spacer can be removed.
There is a removable bushing between the stud on the
steering gear and the steering link rod. One side of the
bushing is a flat shoulder, the o ther side is tapered and
barbed. The flat shoulder faces the gear when installed
correctly. See Figure 3.18.
See Figure 3.17.
Figure 3.18
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Assembly notes:
•Replace any locking fasteners that show signs of wear or reduced locking function. In some cases, the
parts may be thoroughly cleaned and locked with re leasable thread locking compound such as Loctite
242 (blue).
•Replace the hex bushing that locates the steering shaf t, the spacer at the center of the steering gear, an d
the bushing on the end of the drag link to tighten-up sloppy steering, in addition to confirming that the
gears, wheel bearings, and axle bushings are in good condition.
•Apply grease such as MTD P/N 737-0300A (Benelene), or anti-seize compound, to the friction surfaces and
teeth of the steering gear on assembly.
•Make a visual inspection of the steering gear and pinion gear, p aying p articular attention to the condition of the
teeth. If either are worn or damaged, replace both gears and any suspect bushings and hardware.
•Apply anti-seize compound to the bearing surface at the base of the steering shaft.
•The screw that secures the bottom of the steering shaft should be thoroughly cleaned and locked with re leasable thread locking compound such as Loctite 242 (blue). Tighten it to a torque of 17-20 ft.-lbs (23-27 Nm).
•The screw that secures steering wheel to the steering shaft should be thoroughly cleaned. Re leasable threa d
locking compound such as Loctite 242 (blue) should be applied to the threads. Tighten it to a torque of 17-20
ft.-lbs (23-27 Nm).
•Tighten the steering gear sho ulder bolt (passes through the curved slot in the steering gear) before tightening
the steering gear pivot bolt (passes through the spacer at the center of the steering gear).
•The steering gear shoulder bolt should be tightened to a torque of 200-260 in-lb. (22.6-29.4 Nm).
•The steering gear pivot bolt should be tightened to a torque of 200-260 in- lb. (22.6-29.4 Nm).
•The ball joint nuts should be tightened to a torque of 150-250 in-lb. (17- 28 Nm) after removal or adjustment.
7.1.Thoroughly test the steering before returning the tractor to service:
•Test for ease and freedom of movement.
•Check for loose operation or hardware.
•Turn to full-lock in both directions to check linkage travel and steering gea r.
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Steering Link Rod Replacement
Flanged Lock Nut
Figure 3.19
Steering and Front Axle
If the right wheel strikes an object hard enough, the
steering link could bend. If the steering link rod is bent,
inspect the other components for damage and replace as
necessary.
To replace the steering link rod:
1. Raise the hood to gain access to the steering components behind the engine.
2.If desired, move the fuel tank and the fuel tank support bracket out of the way. See instructions in the
steering gear replacement section of this chapter.
3.Remove the flange lock nut that fastens the steering
link rod to the steering gear . Li ft the rod up and out of
the way.
NOTE: There is a flange bushing inserted thr ough the hole
See Figure 3.19.
in the rod. Inspect for wear and replace if needed.
Note the orientation of the steering rod and bush
ing.
-
Loosen jam nut
Bushing
Remove steering arm
Figure 3.20
Steering Link Rod
4.Loosen the jam nut that locks the ball joint in position
on the steering arm at the front axle. Hold the ball
joint using a 1/2” wrench, and loosen the nut using an
11/16” wrench. Back the jam nut away from the ball
joint a few turns.
5.Remove the steering arm from the axle as described
in the axle bushing replacement procedure.
NOTE: This is preferable to separating the ball joint from
the steering arm because the center-locking nut
that secures the ball joint to the steering arm dis
torts the threads on installation. If you choose to
remove the ball joint from the steering arm you will
need to replace it.
6.Unscrew the ball joint from the steering link rod.
NOTE: Make note of the orientation of the rod during dis -
assembly.
7.Install a new flange bushing in the new steering arm.
See Figure 3.21.
8.Install the rod in the reverse order of disassembly.
NOTE: The end of the steering link is off-set and coined
flat. The side of the off-set end that is steppeddown faces away from the steering gear. Othe r
wise the drag link will interfere with the steering
gear when connected to the steering arm and axle.
-
-
Figure 3.21
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9.Perform a front wheel alignment as described in the
next section.
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Front wheel alignment
Normally a tractor will only be out of alignment if it has been in a accident and a component has been bent or
damaged. Another need for an alignment would be when steering or front end components are being serviced.
The toe-in is set in a fixed position due to the fixed length of the rod connected between the right an d left axles.
During assembly at the factory the steering gear is assem bled with an equal number of teeth showing on both
sides of the steering shaft pinion gear. There is a centering hole in the bottom of the steering gear that is lined up with
a hole in the frame. The steering shaf t and p inion gear ar e then installe d.The steering wheel is then attached with the
steering wheel spokes centered.
NOTE: A mis-adjusted steering link may leave the steering gear off-center, giving the tractor a maximum turning radius that is shorter in one direction and longer in the other.
View the steering gear from behind the en gine and below the fuel tank. Turn the steering wheel until and equal
number of steering gear teeth are on each side of the steering shaft pinion gear.
The steering gear is now centered and the front wheels should be facing straight ahead.
If the front wheels are not facing straight ahead, the steering link will need to be adjusted to bring the front wheels
into alignment.
To adjust the steering link:
1.Center the steering gear as described above.
2.Loosen the jam nut that locks the ball joint in posi-
tion. Hold the ball joint using a 1/2” wrench, and
loosen the nut using an 11/16” wrench.
See Figure 3.22.
3.After the jam nut is loosened, remove the steering
arm from the axle as described in the axle bushing
replacement procedure.
NOTE: This is preferable to separating the ball joint
from the steering arm because the centerlocking nut that secures the ball joint to the
steering arm distorts the threads on installa
tion.
4.Manually position the front wheels until they are
pointing straight ahead.
5.Rotate the steering arm and ball joint to thread them up or down the steering link as necessary to align the
steering arm with the axle.
6.Test-fit the steering arm to confirm alignmen t.
7.Once positioned tighten the steering arm clamp bolt to a torque of 200-260 in-lb. (22.6 Nm-29.4 Nm).
-
Loosen jam nut
Remove steering arm
Figure 3.22
NOTE: Replace the nylon ring lock nut if it has lost its retaining capabilities.
8.Center the ball joint in its travel, so it does not bind, and tighten the jam nut that secures it.
9.Inspect the steering wheel and determine that it is pointing straight ahead.
20
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If the steering wheel needs adjustment:
Figure 3.23
Steering and Front Axle
1. Remove the steering wheel cap with a screwdriver .
See Figure 3.23.
2.Using a socket remove the hex nut and bell washer
that fastens the steering wheel to the shaft.
3.Remove the steering wheel and turn it until the
spokes are centered.
4.Reinstall the steering wheel onto the splined shaft.
5.Install the bell washer, hex nut, and steering wheel
cap, in that order.
• Test the operation of the steering system before
returning the tractor to service.
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700 Series Lawn Tractor
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Body Panels
CHAPTER 4: BODY PANELS
What is covered by this chapter
The intent of this chapter is to describe the removal and disassembly of the major body panels on the tractor.
•Hood
•Seat
•Fenders
•Dash panel
NOTE: It is not absolutely necessary to remove the mowing deck for any procedures covered in this section.
The technician may choose to remove the mowing deck so that it is easier to reach some parts of the
tractor.
Hood Removal
NOTE: The hood described in this section is the “S” style hood. Other hood styles are used on different mod-
els. Most of these models are front hinged but may have a different hood mounting bracket depending
upon the engine used on the rider . The “2” style hood is a multi-piece hood with a front pivot near top of
the grill assembly. Refer to the illustrated parts list as a reference for removing that hood or additional
illustrations.
“S” style hood
Figure 4.1
1.The hood is front-hinged. See Figure 4.1.
2.Open the hood by lifting the rear edge to tilt it forward.
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700 Series Lawn Tractor
3.Rotate each headlight lamp socket to release them
from the grill assembly.
See Figure 4.2.
Bayonet style connector
Figure 4.2
4.Cut the plastic wire tie that secures the headlight
harness to the hood bracket. See Figure 4.3.
NOTE: Some hood configurations have a wire har-
ness that does not use a wire tie to secure it
to the hood.
5.Set the harness out of the way on the frame of the
rider.
6.Open the hood far enough to align the tabs with the
opening in the slots, then lift the hood off of the trac
tor. See Figure 4.4.
NOTE: The hood hinges on a pair of shoulder bolts
that fit into slots in the hood bracket. The
hinge travel is limited by a tab that fits into a
channel in the hood bracket.
-
Wire Tie
Figure 4.3
Tab
Hood Bracket
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Shoulder Bolt
Figure 4.4
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