Mov A Load PJCKM1R, PJCKM1T Users Manual

PROJACK M1 SERVICE AND REPAIR

(Draft Copy)

TABLE OF CONTENTS

SECTION PAGE

• Notes, Cautions, and Warnings 2

• Transmitter, Receiver, On & Off Pushbuttons, LEDs, & Wiring Harness

Theory of Operation 3

• Transmitter/Receiver Troubleshooting 5

• Battery 7

• Fuse 9

• On & Off Pushbutton Switch Assembly Replacement 9

• LED PCB Assembly Replacement 11

• Receiver PCB/Wiring Harness Replacement 13

• Synchronizing Transmitter and Receiver 17

• Synchronizing Transmitter Keypad With Transmitter PCB 19

• Tire/Wheel Assembly Replacement 19

• Drive Chain Replacement 20

• Chain Sprocket Replacement 22

• Lower Drive Gearmotor Replacement 22

• Lift Gearmotor Replacement 24

• Inner Tube Assembly Replacement 25

• Lift Screw Thrust Bearing Replacement 28

• Steering Housing Assembly Replacement 28

• Drive Axle Replacement 28

• Lower Frame Subassembly Replacement 30

• ProJack M1 Exploded View 32

• Parts List For Projack M1 33

Fig. 1.0

NOTES, CAUTIONS, AND WARNINGS

NOTE: There are several references in this manual to the left and/or the right side of the unit. To determine the left or right side, stand beside the unit and face the same direction as the trailer tongue is pointing.

CAUTION: There are many torque specifications given in this manual for the various bolts and screws found on the unit. Some of these torque specs are given in “in. lb.” ratings while others are given in “ft. lb.” ratings. Be sure to read the specs carefully before tightening a bolt or screw.

CAUTION: Do not at any time let brake fluids, gasoline, petroleum-based products, penetrating oils, and etc. contact plastic parts. They contain chemicals that can damage, weaken or destroy plastic.

CAUTION: The PROJACK M1 unit contains delicate electronic components that can be damaged by static shock. Always work in a static free area and wear a grounded anti-static wrist strap when handling any electronic component.

WARNING: When servicing, use only identical PROJACK M1 replacement parts. Use of any other part may create a hazard or cause product damage.

WARNING: When servicing the PROJACK M1 unit, always disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental starting.

WARNING: Some repair procedures require the PROJACK M1 unit to be unbolted from its mounting brackets and placed onto a suitable workbench. The unit weighs approximately 120 lbs without a battery installed. Use of an overhead chain hoist or winch is recommended, if available. Do not lift the unit without help. Proper lifting technique is essential to avoid injury. Lift with your arms and legs, not your back. Ignoring these precautions can result in back injury.

TRANSMITTER, RECEIVER, ON & OFF PUSHBUTTONS, LEDs, & WIRING HARNESS THEORY OF OPERATION

Fig. 1.1

The PROJACK M1 unit is controlled by a remotely operated handheld transmitter. The transmitter has eight (8) pushbuttons and one (1) LED. There are six (6) pushbuttons that control the three (3) gearmotors on the main unit. There is a pushbutton that controls the illumination LEDs and there is a pushbutton that will turn off the power on the main unit. The LED on the face of the transmitter should illuminate green when any button is pressed. This indicates that a signal is being sent to the receiver in the main unit.

A readily available CR2450 coin battery, located beneath the battery cover, powers the transmitter.

Fig. 1.2

When any button on the transmitter is pressed, an electronic signal is sent to a receiver inside the unit. The receiver interprets the signal and then commands the appropriate relays/switches to open or close. These relays/switches control current to the three (3) gearmotors and illumination LEDs. The receiver, relays/switches, and other related electronic components are mounted on a printed circuit board (PCB). This receiver PCB is located under the PCB cover at the top of the unit.

There are two pushbuttons mounted on the front of the PCB cover (one with a black protective cover and one with a red cover). The pushbutton with the black cover is used to turn ON the receiver. The pushbutton with the red cover is used to turn OFF the receiver. These pushbuttons are wired to the receiver PCB with a detachable connector.

The receiver PCB has an automatic time delayed OFF feature. If the receiver doesn’t detect a signal from the transmitter for 1½ minutes, the unit will automatically turn itself OFF.

There are seven (7) LEDs located of the front of the PCB cover. The six (6) upper LEDs combine to form an illumination light and are controlled by the LIGHTS pushbutton on the transmitter. The seventh LED, located just above the ON & OFF pushbuttons, is an operating condition indicator. This LED should illuminate green after the ON pushbutton has been pressed. Whenever the receiver is detecting a signal from the transmitter, the operating condition LED should flash green. If a problem (such as an overload on the lift motor) is detected by the electronic components on the receiver PCB, the operating condition LED should illuminate red. All seven (7) LEDs are mounted to a PCB. The LED PCB is wired to the receiver PCB with a detachable connector.

The receiver PCB is designed to go into a safety mode whenever the lift gearmotor is put into a stall condition, such as when the lift screw is at either of its limits. When in this safety mode, the operating condition LED will illuminate red and the function associated with the overload will cease to operate. To exit the safety mode, press the transmitter button that controls the opposite function (press DOWN if the lift screw has hit the UP limit or vise versa). In some cases, the lift screw may be jammed against a limit to an extent that the gearmotor cannot provide enough power to reverse the screw and back it off the limit. An access plug is provided in the top of the PCB cover so that a 9/16-inch socket wrench can be used to turn the lift screw and back it off the limit.

The PROJACK M1 unit utilizes three (3) gearmotors. One gearmotor is located near the top of the unit and provides power to the lift screw. The other two gearmotors are located in the lower drive unit. Each lower drive gearmotor operates one of the two (2) drive wheels. The drive wheels operate independently of one another. By varying the ON time and/or the clockwise/counterclockwise rotation of each gearmotor, the unit can be driven straight or steered in both forward and reverse.

Fig. 1.3

The PROJACK M1 unit must be powered by a 12V DC power source. This power source is usually in the form of a 12V lead acid battery which can be housed in the optional direct mount battery box or can be mounted somewhere nearby on the trailer tongue frame rails.

The three (3) gearmotors and the 12V DC power source are connected to the receiver PCB by a wiring harness. Each individual wire in the wiring harness is hard wired to the receiver PCB on one end and has a ¼-inch ring terminal on the other end for attaching to the gearmotors and the 12V DC power source. The wire that connects to the 12V DC power source positive (+) terminal has a 60-amp time delay fuse mounted inline to protect the unit from electrical overloads.

Each gearmotor has a .1µf 200-ma ceramic capacitor wired between its power terminals. This is to help filter out electronic noise which could affect the operation of the receiver.

TRANSMITTER/RECEIVER TROUBLESHOOTING

If the PROJACK M1 unit fails to respond to the control buttons on the transmitter, check the following:

Does the indicator LED on the face of the transmitter illuminate green when any button is pressed? NOTE: Try every button, one at a time.

A. No. If the indicator LED fails to illuminate green after any button has been pressed,

replace the transmitter battery with a known good one. If the transmitter LED fails to illuminate green while any button is pressed with a known good battery, replace the transmitter. NOTE: A new transmitter will need to be synchronized to the receiver PCB. See instructions under the SYNCHRONIZING TRANSMITTER AND RECEIVER section.

B. Sometimes. If the indicator LED on the face of the transmitter illuminates green when

some (but not all) buttons are pressed, the keypad could be bad. The keypad is available separately and can be replaced. NOTE: When the keypad is replaced, the transmitter PCB must be synchronized to the new keypad. Refer to the SYNCHRONIZING TRANSMITTER KEYPAD WITH TRANSMITTER PCB section.

C. Yes. Check the operating condition LED on the main unit. Is it illuminated, and if so,

what color is it?

1. No. If not illuminated, press the main power ON pushbutton on the front of the

main unit. If the operating condition LED doesn’t illuminate, try pressing the OFF pushbutton followed by the ON pushbutton again. If it still fails to illuminate, check the following: a. Check the condition of the 12V DC power source and charge or correct as

necessary.

b. Check the connections between the battery cables and the battery terminals.

Clean and retighten as necessary.

c. Check the condition of the battery cables. Any frayed or broken wires must be

replaced.

d. Check the 60-amp fuse located inline with the positive (red) battery cable.

Replace if necessary. See instructions under FUSE section.

e. Check the ON & OFF pushbuttons for correct operation (gain access to the

pushbutton wiring harness connector by referring to the instructions under the ON & OFF PUSHBUTTON SWITCH ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT section). The ON pushbutton is a normally open switch. It should only show continuity while the button is being pressed. The OFF pushbutton is a normally closed switch. It should show continuity in the relaxed state and no continuity when the

button is being pressed. Replace the switch assembly if defective. If all of the above check good, and the operating condition LED fails to illuminate after pressing the ON pushbutton, the receiver PCB/wiring harness will need to be replaced.

2. Yes. If the operating condition LED is illuminated green, does it flash green while

pressing any one of the transmitter pushbuttons (other than the OFF pushbutton)? a. Yes. This indicates that the receiver is receiving a signal from the transmitter.

The transmitter and receiver are functioning normally. If the unit still doesn’t

function, the problem lies elsewhere.

 Try pressing all of the buttons, except the OFF pushbutton, on the

transmitter (press one at a time). If none of the buttons cause any action to occur, there is a defective component on the receiver PCB and the receiver PCB/wiring harness must be replaced.

 If some buttons cause action and others don’t, first confirm that the

transmitter indicator LED illuminates green when the button related to the malfunction is pressed. Then check the appropriate device related to the non-functioning button. For example, if the UP/DOWN function fails to operate, perform the following:

o Disconnect the battery, remove the lift motor cover, and inspect the

connection of the wiring harness to the lift motor terminals.

o Check the wiring harness for frayed or broken wires. o Check to see that the lift screw turns freely by removing the access plug

in the top of the PCB cover and manually turning the lift screw with a 9/16-inch socket wrench. Turn the lift screw clockwise to extend the unit or counter-clockwise to amount of force may be needed to overcome the gear reduction in the gearmotor. Be sure to replace the access plug when finished.

retract the unit. NOTE: A substantial

Fig. 1.4

o If a cause for the problem hasn’t been located, test the operation of the

lift gearmotor.  Ensure that the lift screw is not at, or near, either limit. Remove

the access plug in the top of the PCB cover and manually turn the lift screw with a 9/16-inch socket wrench. Turn the lift screw clockwise to extend the unit or counter-clockwise to unit. Be sure to replace the plug when finished.

 Disconnect the lift motor from the wiring harness and momentarily

connect jumper wires from the 12V power source to the motor terminals.

 Test the operation of the gearmotor in the opposite direction by

reversing the jumper wires.

 If the gearmotor doesn’t operate in one or both directions, the

gearmotor is bad and will need to be replaced (once again, be sure that the lift screw is not at either limit).

 If the gearmotor does respond in both directions to the current

from the jumper wires, there is likely a bad relay on the receiver PCB. In such a case, the receiver PCB/wiring harness must be replaced.9

b. No. If the LED doesn’t flash green, the receiver is not detecting a signal from

the transmitter. In some cases, the transmitter and receiver may need to be re-

synchronized. See the section under the SYNCHRONIZING TRANSMITTER

AND RECEIVER section. If re-synching doesn’t solve the problem, try

synching a known good transmitter to the unit. If normal functions return, the

original transmitter is bad and must be replaced. If the unit fails to function with

a known good transmitter, the receiver PCB/wiring harness is bad and must be

replaced.

3. Yes. If the operating condition LED illuminates red, the components on the receiver

PCB have detected an overload condition in the lift gearmotor and have entered a

retract the

safety mode. This usually occurs when the lift screw has been forced against either its up or down limit. To exit the safety mode, press the transmitter button that controls opposite function (press DOWN if the lift screw has hit the UP limit or vise versa). In some cases, the lift screw may be jammed against its limit to such an extent that the gearmotor cannot provide enough power to reverse the screw and back it off the limit. In such cases, it will be necessary to remove the access plug in the top of the PCB cover and use a 9/16-inch socket wrench to turn the lift screw off its limit. Turn the lift screw clockwise to extend the unit or counter-clockwise to retract the unit. Be sure to replace and tighten the access plug when finished.

BATTERY

The PROJACK M1 unit requires a 12V DC. power source. Some installations will utilize an existing 12V battery that is already mounted to the trailer tongue. On other installations where there wasn’t an existing battery, there is an optional battery box that can be mounted directly to the front of the PROJACK M1 unit.

Fig. 1.5

Accessing the battery with the optional direct mount battery box:

1. Locate the upper battery box mounting bolt.

2. Remove the ¼-inch wing nut from the upper battery box mounting bolt.

3. Support the battery box with one hand and remove upper battery box mounting bolt.

4. Tilt the battery box forward.

5. Lift off the battery box cover and set aside.

6. Disconnect the negative battery cable.

7. Disconnect the positive battery cable.

8. Lift the battery from the battery box.

Battery replacement with the optional direct mount battery box:

1. Insert the battery into the battery box with the battery terminals toward the front of the unit.

Fig. 1.6

2. Connect the positive (red) battery cable to the positive (+) battery terminal.

3. Connect the negative (black) battery cable to the negative (-) battery terminal.

4. Coil the battery cables and place them in the battery box in front of the battery.

5. Place the battery box cover onto the battery box.

6. Locate the metal sleeve that is welded to the front of the outer lift tube. The upper battery box

mounting bolt must

pass through the hole in this sleeve when reassembling.

Fig. 1.7

7. Tilt the battery box to the upright position. The two (2) mounting tabs on the upper rear of the

battery box should enter inside of the lower end of the lift motor cover.

8. Align the holes in the battery box mounting tabs with the holes in the lower rear of the lift motor

cover and the hole in the metal sleeve. NOTE: Ensure that the battery cables are not kinked or pinched between the battery box and the outer lift tube assembly. Push any excess battery cable into the battery box

9. Insert the battery box retaining bolt through the square hole in the left side of the lift motor cover.

(Determine the left side of the unit by facing the same direction that the trailer tongue is pointing.)

10. Secure with wing nut. Do not tighten excessively as the plastic parts could be broken by over

tightening.

WARNING: If the battery box retaining wing nut is lost, it must be replaced with a nylon inserted locknut type wing nut. A standard type wing nut may loosen and fall off due to vibration. This could lead to the battery box opening up and dumping the battery onto the ground or roadway.

FUSE

The PROJACK M1 utilizes a 60-amp time delay fuse. This fuse and its holder are located inline with the positive (red) battery cable. On installations that utilize the optional direct mount battery box, gain access to the fuse and its holder by opening up the battery box. Refer to the instructions in the BATTERY section. On other installations simply find the fuse and its holder, near the battery, inline with the positive (red) battery cable. After the fuse holder has been located, remove the protective rubber cover. If the fuse has been blown, remove it and replace it with a 9312 Maxi Plug-in Fuse (60-amp, color code blue).

CAUTION: A blown fuse is a probable sign of an electrical overload. Before replacing a blown

fuse, determine the cause for the electrical overload and correct it. Never try to defeat the function of the fuse by installing a higher amperage rated fuse or by shorting the fuse holder terminals.

Fig. 1.8

ON & OFF PUSHBUTTON SWITCH ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT

Remove the pushbutton switch assembly:

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to the BATTERY section for instructions.

2. Remove the two (2) screws that secure the upper end of the lift motor cover to the PCB cover.

3. Remove the screw that secures the LED/Pushbutton cover to the lift motor cover.

4. Remove the four (4) screws that secure the PCB cover to the PCB support brackets.

Fig.1.9

5. Carefully slide the LED/Pushbutton cover upward approximately ¼-inch to clear the attachment

lip and then pull forward approximately 1-inch. Be careful not to strain the wires connecting the ON & OFF pushbutton switches and the LED PCB to the receiver PCB.

Fig. 1.10

6. Carefully pull the PCB cover straight up until clear of the unit and set aside.

7. Disconnect the ON & OFF pushbutton switch wiring harness connector and the LED PCB wiring

harness connector from the receiver PCB.

Fig. 1.11

8. Grasp the red pushbutton protective cover on the OFF switch and turn counterclockwise until it is

free, pull the switch out of the housing, and reattach the protective cover to the switch. Repeat this process for the ON switch.

Install the pushbutton switch assembly:

1. Grasp the red pushbutton protective cover on the new OFF switch and turn counterclockwise until

it is free of the switch, insert the switch into the hole for the OFF switch, and secure by threading the cover clockwise onto the switch. Repeat this process for the ON switch.

2. Connect the wiring harness connectors to the receiver PCB board. Refer to Fig. 1.11.

CAUTION: The connectors are designed to plug in one way only. Carefully examine the connectors and determine the correct way to orient them before plugging them in. Improper connection attempts could damage the receiver PCB and/or the wiring harness connectors.

3. Hold the LED/Pushbutton cover in its appropriate position with one hand, and with your other

hand, carefully place the PCB cover into its appropriate position. Be careful not to strain the wiring harnesses.

Fig. 1.12

4. Fit the LED/Pushbutton cover onto the PCB cover making sure to align and engage the attachment

lip located on the underside of the LED/Pushbutton cover into the corresponding groove in the PCB cover. Refer to Fig. 1.10.

5. Align the four (4) mounting holes in the PCB cover with the holes in the PCB support brackets

and partially

6. Align the two (2) mounting holes in the PCB cover with the holes in the upper end of the lift

motor cover and secure with the original screws. Tighten to 10 in. lbs.

7. Tighten the four (4) screws that secure the PCB cover to the PCB support brackets. Tighten to 10

in. lbs.

8. Ensure that the attachment lip on the underside of the LED/Pushbutton cover is firmly engaged

into the corresponding groove in the PCB cover. Secure the LED/Pushbutton cover to the lift motor cover with the original screw. Tighten to 10 in. lbs.

9. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

LED PCB ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT

Remove the LED PCB assembly.

thread in the original screws.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to the BATTERY section for instructions.

2. Remove the two (2) screws that secure the upper end of the lift motor cover to the PCB cover.

Refer to Fig. 1.9.

3. Remove the screw that secures the LED/Pushbutton cover to the lift motor cover.

4. Remove the four (4) screws that secure the PCB cover to the PCB support brackets.

5. Carefully slide the LED/Pushbutton cover upward approximately ¼-inch to clear the attachment

lip and then pull forward approximately 1-inch. Be careful not to strain the wires connecting the ON & OFF pushbutton switches and the LED PCB to the receiver PCB. Refer to Fig. 1.10.

6. Carefully pull the PCB cover straight up until clear of the unit and set aside.

7. Disconnect the ON & OFF pushbutton switch wiring harness connector and the LED PCB wiring

harness connector from the receiver PCB. Refer to Fig. 1.11.

8. Grasp the red pushbutton protective cover on the OFF switch and turn counterclockwise until it is

free, pull the switch out of the housing, and reattach the protective cover to the switch. Repeat this process for the ON switch.

9. The LED PCB is attached to the LED/Pushbutton cover with a two-sided adhesive gasket.

Carefully pry the old LED PCB from the housing-cover with a putty knife or suitable tool.

10. Clean off any remaining gasket and/or adhesive.

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Mov A Load PJCKM1R, PJCKM1T Users Manual

Specifications and Main Features

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User Manual