Morso 4600 Installation And Operating Instructions Manual

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MORSØ JERNSTØBERI A/S . DK-7900 NYKØBING MORS
E-Mail: [email protected] · Website: www.morsoe.com

Distributed by: HEARTHLINK INTERNATIONAL
9 Maple St. - Randolph, Vermont - 05060 - USA

Installation and Operating Instructions

4600 Series

For use in North America

Read this entire manual before you install and use your new room heater. If this room
heater is not properly installed, a house fire may result. To reduce the risk of fire, follow
the installation instructions. Failure to follow instructions may result in property damage,
bodily injury, or even death.

Contact local building officials about restrictions and installation inspection-equirements
in your area.

Save these instructions

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We congratulate you on your choice of a Morsø stove. Morsø has
been producing some of the world’s best stoves since 1853. If you
follow this installation- and operating instruction carefully, we can
assure you many years of warmth and pleasure.

Optional Accessories

A wide range of accessories (such as handling gloves, fireside tools, glass cleaner and heatproof
paint) are available for use with your Morsø stove. They help with day-to-day running and
maintenance. Contact your Morsø dealer for more information.

The Morsø 4600 Series meet the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s emission limits for
wood heaters sold on or after July 1, 1990

The Morsø 4600 series have been tested by OMNI-Test Laboratories, Inc. The test standards
are ANSI/UL-1482 for the United States and ULC S627 for Canada.

The stove is listed for burning wood only. Do not burn other fuels.

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CONTENTS:

1.0 Installation of your Morsø stove

1.1 Checking loose parts in the stove 4

1.2 The chimney / flue system 5

1.3 Flue Connection 6

1.4 Connection to existing chimney 6

1.5 Positioning the stove 8

2.0 Operation

2.1 Before you start firing 10

2.2 Lighting and loading intervals 11

3.0 Maintenance 12

3.1 Exterior maintenance 12

3.2 Internal maintenance 12

3.3 Cleaning the Stove and the Flue 14

3.4 Leaving the stove for extended periods 16

3.5 Parts diagram 17

3.6 Parts list 18

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Installation requirements vary in different districts, and the local building officials have the final
authorization to approve your installation. You should discuss the installation with them before
beginning. Please ask your dealer for further information.

Do not connect to any air distribution duct or system.

Important: If the installation instructions are not followed carefully, it may cause
dangerous situations like chimney - and house fires. Follow the instructions
carefully and do not deviate from them as it may cause injuries to people or
property.

1.1 Checking loose parts in the stove

After unpacking, check the following:

- The riddling grate (in the centre of the fire bed) and the fire bricks are firmly in position and
have not shifted during transit.

- The front grate is placed correctly

- The air control works smoothly.

- The strip of wood in the top of the radiation shield at the back of the stove should be
removed.

Standard Accessories

Poker, ceramic flue connection gasket and riddling tool are standard accessories, and can
usually be found in the ashpan or firebox area.

1.0 Installation of your Morsø stove

Installation of woodburning stoves must be safe and legal.

If your Morsø stove is not installed correctly, it may cause a house fire. To reduce
the risk of fire, the installation instructions must be followed carefully. Contact the
local building officials about restrictions and installation inspection in your area.

Before you start installing your stove, make sure that:

- The stove and chimney connection are placed far enough from combustible materials to meet
all clearance requirements.

- The floor protection must be adequate and must be made correctly according to ´the
requirements.
All neccessary approvals are needed from the local building officials.

The data plate, which is located on the back of the stove, provides information regarding safety
testing information, name of certified testing laboratory, and installation requirements.

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1.2 The chimney / flue system

Note that the flue system must be independently secured and must not rely on the stove for
support.

The stove must not be connected to a chimney flue serving any other appliance.
(Several flues may run up a single chimney stack; use one flueway per appliance).

Use a residential type masonry or listed type HT factory-built chimney.

High Temperature (H.T.) Chimney Standard UL-103 (2100º F.) or a code-approved
masonry chimney with a flue liner for the USA, and High Temperature (650ºC)
Standard ULC S-629 for Canada.

The internal dimensions of the chimney connector and chimney must not be less than 6 inches
diameter (or equivalent cross section), and should not be significantly larger than this. Too
large a section will tend to allow the flue gases to cool excessively, causing sluggishness or
unpredictability in the stove’s performance.

We recommend the length of the chimney system should be at least 16 feet (not required)
above the stove in normal domestic situations, measured from the flue collar to the top of the
chimney.
Local conditions like for example - roof constructions, large trees nearby and high altitude,
may influence the chimney draft and height. Therefore, contact the local professional chimney
sweep or your Morsø dealer.

Typical Factory-Built or Masonry Chimney Installations

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Double-wall connectors must be tested and listed for use with solid-fuel burning appliances.
Single-wall connectors should be made of 24 gauge or heavier gauge steel. Do not use
galvanized connector; it cannot withstand the high-temperatures that smoke and exhaust
gases can reach, and may release toxic furnes under high heat. The connector must be 6
inches (150mm) in diameter.

If possible, do not pass the chimney connector through a combustible wall or ceiling.
If passage through a combustible wall is unavoidable, refer to the sections on Wall
Pass- Throughs. Do not pass the connector through an attic, a closet or similar
concealed space when installing the chimney connectors.

It is important to keep the flue gases moving smoothly in the right direction. Do not vent into a
large void at this location; rather form one continuous section all the way up. Use mild bends
(e.g. 45º vs. 90º) rather than sharp angles where a change of direction is required. All parts of
the venting must be accessible for cleaning purposes.

In horizontal runs of chimney , maintain a distance of 18 inches from the ceiling. Keep it as short
and direct as possible, with no more than two 90 degree turns. Slope horizontal runs of
connector upward 1/4 per foot (20 mm per metre) going from the stove toward the chimney.
The recommended maximum length of a horizontal run is 3 feet (1 metre), and the total length
should be no longer than 8 feet (2.5 metres).

Information on assembling and installing connectors is provided by the manufacturer’s
instructions exactly as you assemble the connector and attach it to the stove and chimney.

Be sure the installed stove and chimney connector are correct distances from near by
combustible materials. See the clearance paragraph page 8.

1.3 Flue Connection

The stove is supplied from the factory with a flue collar fitted to the top plate and a round
blanking plate blocking off the rear flue exit (behind the rear shield plate).

Use a 24 MSG black or blue chimney connector or listed double wall chimney connector.
Refer to local codes and the chimney manufacturer’s instructions for precautions required for
passing a chimney through a combustible wall or ceiling. Remember to secure the chimney
connector with a minimum of three screws to the product and to each adjoining section.

The collar can be fitted to the rear outlet. Simply knock out the round panel on the rear heat
shield plate to reveal the cast iron plate. Untwist the blanking plate and the flue collar and swap
their positions. Re-secure by pushing down and tighten the enclosed screws.

Position the stove and connect to the flue system.

Wear gloves and protective eyewear when drilling, cutting or joining sections of

chimney connector

1.4 Connection to the existing chimney

A chimney connector is the double-wall or single-wall pipe that connects the stove to the chim­ney. The chimney itself is the masonry or prefabricated structure that encloses the flue. Chim­ney connectors are used only to connect the stove to the chimney.

Where passage through a wall, or partition of combustible construction is desired, the in­stallation shall conform to CAN/CSA-B365.

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1.5 Positioning the stove

Distance to walls and lintel

When the stove is positioned near combustible materials, observe all current local and national
building regulations with regards to clearances. Whatever r egulations apply to your area, do not
in any case install the stove within 6 inches of combustible materials around the sides or 16
inches above the top of the stove. These distances may need to be increased if the materials
are sensitive to heat. Note also that wall paper and other decorative materials may become
detached with the effects of heat and care should be taken to ensure that they do not fall
towards the stove in such an event.
When the stove is positioned near non-combustible materials, a gap of 6 inches or more is
recommended for cleaning purposes and to ensure that heat circulates around the stove and
out into the room.

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If using rear exit, the floor protection must extend beneath the chimney connector and 2-in
beyond each side.

Do NOT install in a mobile home

Distance to furniture

The recommended minimum distance from stove to furniture is 30 inches. Note that some
furniture is more easily affected by heat and may need to be moved to a greater distance. This
is your responsibility.

In addition other combustible materials, away from the stove. In general, a distance of 30
inches must be maintained between the stove and moveable combustible item such as drying
clothes, newspapers, firewood etc.

Note:
Acid Protection

If acid-washing the masonry around the stove, protect the stove surface with an acid-proof
cover

Fresh Air Inlet

Unless there is deemed to be sufficient ambient leakage of air into the room via doorways,
windows and the like, a dedicated fresh air inlet will be needed. This inlet should have 2
square inches (1250 square mm) of free air space. This is particularly importent where the
room is well sealed, or where an extractor hood or ventilation system disturbs the natural
air pressure. Such an inlet should not be on a wall that is usually subject to negative
pressure from normal wind pattern. Avoid placing the inlet directly across the room from
the stove, thus causing a cold air draft.

CLEARANCES IN ( ) IN MM FOR CANADA FOR
NON-COMBUSTIBLE FLOOR PROTECTOR

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2.0 Operation

2.1 Before you start firing
For Use with Solid Wood Fuel Only. Do Not Overfire, If Heater or Chimney Connector

Glows You Are Overfiring. Inspect and Clean Chimney Frequently. Under Certain

Conditions of use creosote buildup may occur rapidly. Because of risk of smoke and
flame spillage, operate only with door fully closed.

Caution:
Hot while in operation. Keep children, clothing and furniture away. Contact may cause
skin burns.
Do not use chemicals or fluids to start the fire.

Do not burn garbage or flammable fluids.

Do not use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter or fluid or
similar liquids to start or freshen up a fire in this heater. Keep all such liquids away from
the heater while it is in use.

Choosing your fuel

All types of natural wood can be burned on your stove, but they must be well-seasoned and
dry. Once the wood is cut to length, it should be split down middle - to suit the dimensions
given below - to allow moisture to evaporate.
Cut the wood to a length of 10 inches (25 cm) and approx. 3 to 3.5 inches (7-8 cm) in section.
If you can weigh your wood, aim for around 0.7 kg.
The maximum moisture content of the wood should be around 20%.
Store the logs under cover in a location where fresh air can move through the stack. Some soft
woods may take as little as one good summer to season, where some harder woods may take
a couple of years or more. Well seasoned wood will be remarkably light to hold and will
probably have radial cracking at the ends. If your wood spits or sizzles when burnt, and your
stove’s door glass persistently mists up, your wood is not properly seasoned.
Never use drift wood (from the sea), whose salt content may cause corrosion, nor construction
wood that may have been impregnated with chemicals.

Cautions not to place such fuel within space heater installation clearances or
within the space required for charging and ash removal.

Starting the first fire
The initial fire should be small, so that the stove paint can cure and the main plates of
the stove can settle into position. Some fumes will be given off by the paint. Ventilate
the room during this phase.
The setting of air supply, lighting techniques and loading intervals will depend on
chimney draft, the fuel used, the heat required and so on. Some basic techniques are
outlined below.

In principle

Your stove is fitted wih Pilot, Primary and Secondary air inlets.
When using solid wood fuel the pilotair should be closed shortly (2-3 minutes) after loading and

reloading and remain closed. Pilotair, which is controlled using the left lever, should primrily be
used when using alternative fuels, as well as in short periods (2-3 minutes) after loading and
reloading.

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The preheated primary air, which is controlled using the right lever, is injected into the flue
gasses from above the glass.

Secondary Air is delivered to the firebox using the specially designed baffle. The supply of
secondary air is fixed open and is not adjustable.

For extra safety, your stove has been fitted with a removable handle.

2.2 Lighting and loading intervals

When first lighting the stove, a large volume of air is needed. When the stove is cold, you
should leave the door open an inch or two for the first few minutes and open the primary air
supply completely. While the door is open, do not leave the stove unattended.

To form a reasonable bed of ash on the floor of the stove, you should use 5-6 inches thickness
(2-4 pound) of dry kindling at the initial lighting. Always maintain a 1-1.5 inch (2-3 cm) layer of
ash on the floor of the combustion chamber at all other times.

Step-by-step procedure

1. The air supply must be fully open.

2. Light the fire. An ember bed will quickly be formed by lighting with firelighters, morsø
kindling bags or 7-10 pieces of twisted paper under the dry kindling wood (see above).

3. After lighting, partially close the door, leaving it open an inch or two to allow in plenty of
combustion air.

4. When the chimney is warmed through after 5-10 minutes, the door should be closed. A
suitable ember bed will be formed after a further 15-20 minutes.

5. When ready to reload, spread the ember across the firebox floor, bringing plenty towards
the front of the stove.

6. Lay three pieces of wood (see dimensions above) onto the embers. Leave half an inch (1
cm) or more between each piece. Place the ends of your logs towards the opening, but not
too close to the front.

7. Close the door. Leave the primary air supply fully open.

8. After a few minutes, and adjust the primary air supply to suit your heating requirements.

9. Anticipate each refueling, remembering to add a modest layer of wood while there are still
plenty of live embers, Repeat steps 5-8.

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Do not for any reason attempt to increase the firing of your heater by altering the air
control adjustment range outlined in these directions.

Warning: Fireplace stoves must never be left unattended with doors open.

If door are left partly open, gas and flame may be drawn out of the fireplace stove

opening, creating risks from both fire and smoke. We recommend you to fit a smoke
detector in the room where the stove is installed.

DO NOT OVERFIRE THIS HEATER. Overfiring may cause a house fire, or can result in
permanent damage to the stove. If any part of the stove glows, you are overfiring.

Draft conditions

If smoke or fumes come out of your stove when lightning up and reloading, or if the fire simply
will not respond, a poor draft is almost certainly to blame. (In a very few cases, there may be
insufficient fresh air getting into the room - see installation advice above). Take advice from your
stove supplier on how best to upgrade your flue system to improve draft.

Rules of woodburning
If you want less heat, put fewer logs on the stove and reduce the amount of air. It is still

important to maintain a good layer of embers.

Less heat - less wood - less air
Greater heat - more wood - more air
Soot deposits will settle on the glass if the stove is run too slowly or if your wood is not
well seasoned.

3.0 MAINTENANCE

When perfoming maintenance on your stove, always protect yourself, using safety
goggles or gloves

3.1 Exterior Maintenance

The stove surface is painted with heat-resistant Senotherm paint. It is best kept clean by
vacuuming with a soft brush attachment or by wiping with a lint-free cloth.
Over a period of time, the painted surface may become slightly grey. A can of Morsø touch-up
spray paint should be available from your stove supplier. This can be applied - in accordance
with the instructions - in just a few minutes. When first firing after touching up, the stove will
give off a slight smell as the paint cures. Make sure to ventilate the room well during this phase.

3.2 Internal maintenance

Glass

If the stove is generally run at the correct temperatures, there should be little or no dirt on the
glass. If dirt does settle during lighting, most will burn off as temperatures increase.For heavier
deposits that will not burn off, use morsø glass cleaner, applied when the glass is cold, in
accordance with the instructions. Never use abrasive cleaners on the glass surface.

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Reasons for dirty glass

· Fuel too wet

· Logs too large or not split

· Combustion temperatures too low

Replace broken glass immediately.
Do not operate your stove if the glass in the door is damaged.

If you need to replace the glass, it should be replaced with the high temperature ceramic
class supplied by Morsø, contact your Morsø dealer.

Installing the glass

Never install the glass when the stove is in function.

1. When you open the door, you will find two small M4 unbraco screws, one in each hinge.

Unscrew the two screws, lift the door off the hinges, and place it face down on a sheet of
cardboard or other nonabrasive fabric.

2. Unscrew the four bolts that secure the glass. (In the event that a bolt sheers off when

being unscrewed, remove the remaining body of the bolt by drilling down its cnetre with 1/
8 inch high speed steel drill bit. Smaller drill bits may be successful, but do not use a lager
bit. Make sure the bit stays away from the edges of the bolt - this may damage the thread
in the cast iron).

3. Remove the old ceramic gaskets and clean up the surface underneath with wire wool or

emery paper to remove loose particles.

4. Place the new gasket material in position around the perimeter of the window area, making

sure to pinch them to the length in such a way that they make a continuous seal. Leave no
gaps.

5. Place the new glass in position on the strips and screw home the fresh bolts and fitting by

hand.

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6. Finally, give each of the bolts an extra half turn or so. The glass should held tight enought

that cleaning will not dislodge it. Do not over-tighten the bolts as this may put excessive
pressure on the glass, resulting in cracking - important!

To reduce the risk of breaking the glass, avoid striking the glass or slamming the
door.

Internal service parts

The flame-path equipment - consisting of the ashpan, grate, firebricks, glass, baffle and flue
collar - are subject to the extremes of heat produced by the fir e. From time to time, one or other
of these parts may need replacing as a matter of routine maintenance.

NOTE: The flame-path equipment, the ceramic rope and the paint finish are not covered
by guarantee.

All of these service parts can be bought from your morsø dealer, and we recommend that
damaged parts are replaced as soon as possible to avoid collateral damage.

The grate may be replaced by lifting it by its left hand edge and twisting it backwards.
Dislocate the riddling arm from the grate by feel from beneath the floor of the firebox. If you find
this difficult for any reason, raising the rectangular grate surround casting may help.

Should the baffle be distorted by an overfire, the stove will still function, although its efficiency
may be compromised. Replace it as soon as possible. Withdraw the baffle from the firebox
(this may be easier if the firebricks are first removed).

Before replacing the baffle, scrape out the old fire furnace and replace with new to make an
effective seal.

Reasons for fast internal wear and tear

Persistent heavy firing
Soot and ashes left to accumulate

Ceramic Gasket

The gasket around the perimeter of the door may harden over a period of time. It should be
replaced if it becomes difficult to close the door or if air starts to leak in around the perimeter of
the door , causing the fire to become a little less controllable. A morsø r ope gasket kit is available
from your stove supplier.

3.3 Cleaning the Stove and the Flue

Check for soot above the baffle plate and around the flue outlet every month or so to start with.
If the stove suddenly becomes sluggish, check for a soot fall around the flue collar or in the flue/

chimney.
The chimney and chimney connector should be inspected at least once every two months

during the heating season to determine if a creosote buildup has occurred. If creosote has
accumulated, it should be removed to reduce the risk of a chimney fire.

Clean the flue/chimney - all the way from the stove to the flue terminal point above the house.

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A good routine is to clean the flue after each heating season in any case, and inspect prior to
the season to ensure that bird’s nests or other blockages have not ocurred during the off
season.

Ash disposal

Empty the ashpan on a daily basis or as needed. Ash allowed to build up towards the underside
of the grate will trap heat and could cause premature failure of the grate.

Empty the ashpan according to this procedure:

When the door is closed, the grate can be operated by means of the riddling bar . Open the front
door, and use a shovel or poker to stir excess ash through the ash slots in the grate down into
the ash pan. Remove the ash pan, making sure to keep it level.
Dispose the ash in a metal container with a tight fitting lid.
The closed container of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible floor or on the ground,
well away from all combustible materials, pending final disposal. If the ashes are disposed of
by burial in soil or otherwise locally disperded, they should be retained in the closed container
until all cinders have thoroughly cooled.
Return the ash pan to its original position in the stove, and close.

Caution:
Never empty a stove in operation.
Never use your household or shop vacuum cleaner to remove ash from the stove;
always remove and dispose of the ash properly.

Creosote - formation and need for removal

When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other organic vapors, which combine with
expelled moisture to form creosote. The cr eosote vapors condense in the relatively cool chimney
flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When
ignited this creosote makes an extremely hot fire. When burning wood, inspect the chimney
connector periodically to determine if a creosote buildup has occurred.

Chimney sweeping

Inspect the system regularly during the heating season as part of a regular maintenance schedule.
To inspect the chimney, let the stove cool completely . Then, using a mirr or, sight up through the
flue collar into the chimney flue. If you cannot inspect the flue system in this fashion, the stove
must be disconnected to provide better viewing access.
Clean the chimney using a brush the same size and shape as the flue liner. Run the brush up
and down the liner , causing any deposits to fall to the bottom of the chimney wher e they can be
removed through the clean-out door.
Clean the chimney connector disconnecting the sections, taking them outside, and removing
any deposits with a stiff wire brush. Reinstall the connetor sections after cleaning, being sure to
secure the joints between individual sections with sheet metal screws.

If you cannot inspect or clean the chimney yourself, contact your local Morsø Deler or a
professional chimney sweep.

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If you do experience a chimney fire, act promptly and:

Close the air control.
Get everyone out of the house.
Call the Fire Department.

Annual maintenance

Before the heating season, perform a thorough cleaning, inspection and repair:
Thoroughly clean the chimney and chimney connector.
Inspect the chimney for damage and deterioration. Replace weak sections of prefabricated
chimney. Have a mason make repairs to a masonry chimney.
Inspect the chimney connector and replace any damaged sections.
Check gasketing for wear or compression, and replace if necessary.
Check the glass for cracking; replace if needed.
Check door and handles for tightness. Adjust if needed.

3.4 Leaving the stove for extended periods

Important:

If the stove is to be left unused for any period of time, clean it out thoroughly and leave the
spinner slightly open to allow airflow. Make sur e that the flue does not allow rainwater to come
anywhere near the stove; install a chimney cap, but do not block off the flue completely.
These measures should ensure there is a slight movement of air through the stove, and that the
body of the stove remains dry, right into the corners.
Any ash left within an unfired stove can attract moisture like blotting paper . If moistur e is allowed
to settle within the stove, rust will form. Rust expands as it takes a grip. This can lead to undue
pressure on the stove joints, and this in turn may result in damage to the stove.

NOTE: It is best to thoroughly clean the stove after the heating season has concluded. Adding
a dessicant, such as kitter litter, into the ash pan helps absorb moisture during the summer
months. Be sure to remove this prior to the heating season.

Thank you for buying a morsø stove.

We hope you have many years of car ef ree warmth in its company. Some initial experimentation
with loading and running techniques will decide your normal routine. If you have any problems
after this short learning phase, please refer to your stove dealer. Should they be unable to help
for any reason, please contact us in writing at the address on the front of this publication.

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3.5 Parts diagram for the Morsø 4600 Series

3.6 Parts list for the Morsø 4600 Series

Pos. No. Parts 4600 4600 standless steel

1 Riddling grate 44182800 44182800
2 Attachment for cover 44256700 44256700
3 Cover 44261021 44261021
4 Handle for riddling grate 44262021 44262021
5 Flue collar 44344121 44344121
6 Front frame 44450221 44450221
7 Side plate 44460321 44460321
8 Top plate 44450521 44450521
9 Intermediate frame 44450600 44450600
10 Baffle plate, cast iron 44462300 44462300
11 Top plate, inside 44462500 44462500
12 Base plate 44469121 44469121
13 Rear plate 44469700 44469700
14 Rear plate, inside 44469800 44469800
15 Door 44469921 44469921
16 Front grate 44450721 44450721
17 Poker 541075 541075
18 Distance tube 541439 541439
19 Hinge pin 542056 542056
20 Riddling bar 544503 544503
21 Side plate, outside 54460021 71466161
22 Base plate, outside 54460121 54460121
23 Convection rear plate 54461721 54461721
24 Top plate, outside 54460521 54460521
30 Radiant shielding, bottom 54463200 54463200
32 Distance tube 54465000 54465000
33 Ash tray 54469000 54469000
34 Radiant shielding, bottom 54460900 54460900
36 Flat ir on 545006 545006
37 Distance tube 545007 545007
38 Hinge pin 545008 545008
39 Draught control 71460800 71460800
40 Draught control frame 71460900 71460900
41 Draught control 71461100 71461100
42 Baffle plate, stainless 71461761 71461761
43 Draught control arm 71462600 71462600
44 Draught control arm 71462700 71462700
46 Leg left 71810021 71810021
47 Leg right 71820021 71820021
48 Black steel set screw 731608 731608
50 Black steel set screw 731620 731620
52 Black steel set screw 731630 731630
53 Black steel set screw 731635 731635
54 Nut 735005 735005
57 Bolt 738612 738612
58 Screw 739308 739308
59 Screw 739405 739405
61 Screw 742406 742406
62 Screw 742508 742508
64 Screw 74361000 74361000
65 Black steel set screw 743625 743625
66 Screw 74381604 74381604
67 Brass washer 746006 746006
69 Binding washer 746206 746206
70 Door handle 54186100 54186100
71 Handle. riddling bar 75462000 75462000
72 Axis for handle 75462700 75462700
73 Distance tube 542635 542635
74 Glas fitting 790743 790743

76 Stone right 79095200 79095200
77 Stone left 79095300 79095300
78 Air slider washer 791891 791891
79 Ceramic glass 79463600 79463600
80 Cover botton 79168300 79168300
81 Washer 79189600 79189600
83 Distance tube 545003 545003
84 Screw 731645 731645
86 Screw 791835 791835
87 Box. tertiare air 71463000 71463000
88 Stone, rear 79095400 79095400
90 Insulation 79461700 79461700
91 Screw 742608 742608

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72460050. November 1, 2002 morsø jernstøberi ☎ 96 69 19 00