Model Tech SE5a SCOUT Instructions Manual

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INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY

Specifications:

The Modeltech SE5a Scout ARF is distributed

exclusively by Global Hobby Distributors

18480 Bandilier Circle, Fountain Valley, CA 92708

Distributors Version V1.0 February 2004

Kit Product Number 123680

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Wing Span: 49.5 Inches (Top and Bottom)

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Wing Area: 792 Square Inches

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Length: 41 Inches

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Weight RTF: 5.5 - 6.5 Pounds

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Wing Loading: 16 - 19 Ounces Per Square Foot

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Functions: Ailerons, Elevator, Rudder & Throttle

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Engine Required: .40 - .52 Two-Stroke

.52 - .61 Four-Stroke

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Radio Required: 4Ch or More w/3 Standard Servos

and 2 Mini Servos

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Safety Warning ........................................................................... 2

Introduction ................................................................................. 3

Section 1: Our Recommendations ............................................ 4

Section 2: Tools and Supplies Required .................................. 5

Section 3: Kit Contents ............................................................. 5

Section 4: Replacement Parts .................................................. 7

Section 5: A Note About Covering ............................................ 7

Section 6: Stabilizer Installation................................................ 8

Section 7: Top Wing Installation ............................................. 12

Section 8: Control Surface Hinging ........................................ 15

Section 9: Engine Installation ................................................. 16

Section 10: Fuel Tank Assembly & Installation ...................... 18

Section 11: Throttle Control System Installation .................... 20

Section 12: Elevator & Rudder Control Systems Installation .. 25

Section 13: Aileron Control System Installation ..................... 26

Section 14: Landing Gear Installation .................................... 30

Section 15: Cowling Installation .............................................. 33

Section 16: Final Assembly..................................................... 34

Section 17: Balancing the SE5a Scout ARF .......................... 37

Section 18: Control Throws..................................................... 37

Section 19: Preflight Check & Safety ..................................... 38

Product Evaluation Sheet ........................................................ 39

SAFETY WARNING

This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only in open areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio control system and any other components purchased separately.

FOR YOUR INFORMATION

To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors. If there is no hobby shop in your area, we recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below. They will be able to help you locate a flying field near you.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie IN 47302-9252

(800) 435-9262

www.modelaircraft.org

OUR GUARANTEE

Modeltech guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This does not cover any component parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Modeltech's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.

In that Modeltech has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

INTRODUCTION

Thank you for purchasing the Modeltech SE5a Scout ARF. Before completing the final assembly of your new airplane, please carefully read through this instruction manual in its entirety. Doing so will ensure your success the first time around!

MODELTECH SE5a SCOUT ARF FEATURES

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Prebuilt from High-Quality Balsa and Light Plywood

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Precovered with Real Iron-On, Heat-Shrink Covering Material

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Wire-Spoke Wheels and Scale Steel Landing Gear Strut Assembly

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Prepainted Fiberglass Cowling

● Metal Center-Cabane Struts and Precovered Outer Struts

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Includes Most Hardware - Fuel Tank, Pushrods, Engine Mount, Etc.

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Fast and Easy Assembly - Over 70 High-Resolution Digital Photos and Drawings to Guide You

This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire assembly process of your new airplane in the least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new airplane and also learn tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them before beginning assembly.

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Please read through each step before beginning assembly. You should find the layout very complete and straightforward. Our goal is to guide you through assembly without any of the headaches and hassles that you might expect.

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There are check boxes next to each procedure. After you complete a procedure, check off the box. This will help prevent you from losing your place.

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Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft cloth,

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Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put the

small parts in after you open the accessory bags.

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We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air, but take your time. This will ensure you build a straight, strong and great flying airplane.

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If you come across this symbol ☞, it means that this is an important point or an assembly hint.

both to protect the table and to protect the parts.

If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly,

please contact us at the address below:

Global Services

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92708

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 Email: service@globalhobby.net

CHECK IT OUT! We urge you to come check out our website at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com. There you will find public

message boards frequented by other Modeltech product owners and the Modeltech support staff. This is a great place to learn about new Modeltech products, get help and suggestions for your current Modeltech products or just simply hang out and chat with people that share your same interests.

To enable us to better serve your needs, please include your email address with any correspondence you send to us. Your email address will be added to our Customer Service Database so you will automatically receive free updates and tech notices for your particular product. You will also receive repair status updates (if applicable) and other important information about your product as it becomes available.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS

Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell,

trade, or rent your personal information to others . Your privacy is important to us.

SECTION 1: OUR RECOMMENDATIONS

This section describes our recommendations to help you in deciding which types of accessories to purchase for your new Modeltech SE5a Scout ARF. Please read through this entire section very carefully. We have provided you with tips

and recommendations that, if followed, will result in a great flying airplane. Failure to follow our recommendations may result in a poor flying airplane.

What Engine Should I Use?

The SE5a Scout ARF will fly well with a variety of different engines. The airplane is designed to be flown with .40 - .52 size two-stroke engines or .52 - .61 size four-stroke engines. Whether you plan on using a two-stroke or a four-stroke engine, the firewall has been set up for the engine to be mounted upright. This is ideal because the engine can be fully enclosed within the cowling and engines that are mounted upright are very easy to tune and maintain.

If you choose to use a two-stroke engine, you will need to purchase a muffler extension for your engine's muffler. This will allow the muffler to be pushed out far enough to clear the side of the fuselage. If you're using a four-stroke engine, the engine's exhaust pipe can be rotated to exit the upper, right side of the cowling, so no muffler extension is necessary.

What Radio System and Servos Should I Use?

A standard four-channel radio control system with 3 standard servos for the elevator, rudder and throttle, and 2 mini servos for the ailerons will be more than adequate. Since the ailerons use separate aileron servos, you will need to use a servo Y-Harness to join them. A standard flat or square 4-cell receiver flight battery will work well, too.

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✦ Because of the thin airfoil, you must use mini servos for the ailerons. Standard-size servos will not fit

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within the confines of the wing.

What Else Do I Need?

The SE5a Scout ARF includes most of the hardware you'll need to finish the airplane. You will need to purchase separately a remote fueling valve, two servo extension leads and one Y-Harness for the aileron servos, and some basic building materials, such as adhesives, protective foam rubber for your radio equipment, and fuel tubing. We've provided a list below of the items we used on the airplane shown in this instruction manual.

Here's a List of What We Used to Finish Our SE5a Scout ARF:

QTY. 1 210980 Magnum XL .52RFS Four-Stroke Engine

QTY. 1 608660 APC 12 x 6 Composite Propeller

QTY. 3 444104 Cirrus CS-36 Standard Servos

QTY. 2 444422 Cirrus CS-20HP Mini Servos

QTY. 2 444713 Cirrus 12" Servo Extensions

QTY. 1 444728 Cirrus Y-Harness

QTY. 1 115490 Thunderbolt Four-Stroke Glow Plug

QTY. 1 237500 Magnum Fueling Valve

QTY. 1 115923 Global XX Silicon Fuel Tubing

QTY. 1 868638 Dubro 1/4" Protective Foam Rubber

QTY. 1 867903 Dubro 3/8" Heat-Shrink Tubing

QTY. 1 592493 Williams Bros. 1/6 Scale Standard Pilot (Optional)

If you purchase the optional pilot, you will also need various colors of enamel paint and a small paint brush to paint the pilot.

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servos use a universal connector. The part numbers for the Cirrus servo extensions and Y-Harness are compatible with Hitec and JR radio control systems. These items are also available with connectors that are compatible with Futaba and Airtronics radio control systems.

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✦ The part numbers listed for the Cirrus servos are compatible with all name-brand radio control systems. These

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SECTION 2: TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

The tools and supplies listed below will be necessary to finish the assembly of your Modeltech SE5a Scout ARF. We suggest having these items on hand before beginning assembly.

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500 ❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510 ❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560 ❑ Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy # 887565 ❑ Kwik Bond C/A Debonder # 887545 ❑ Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue # 339176 ❑ Pacer Z-42 Blue Threadlocker # 339162 ❑ # 1 & # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers ❑ 2.5mm Hex Wrench ❑ Adjustable Open-End Wrench ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife # 692801 ❑ Scissors ❑ Electric Drill

SECTION 3: KIT CONTENTS

❑ Assorted Drill Bits ❑ Dubro T-Pins # 567685 ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand # 223977 ❑ Robart Incidence Meter # 561554 ❑ Rotary Tool w/Cutting Disc & Sanding Drum ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Builder's Triangle ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks # 864204 ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups # 864205

We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Before you begin assembly, group the parts as we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly and it will also help you become familiar with each part.

If you find any parts missing or damaged, please contact us at:

Global Services

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92708

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 Email: service@globalhobby.net

AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES

❑ (1) Fuselage ❑ (1) Top Wing w/Ailerons ❑ (1) Bottom Wing w/Ailerons ❑ (1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator ❑ (1) Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder

THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM

❑ (1) 16" Pushrod Wire w/Z-Bend ❑ (1) Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly

http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

❑ (1) 240cc Fuel Tank ❑ (1) Large Diameter Metal Plate ❑ (1) Small Diameter Metal Plate ❑ (1) Metal Neck-Reinforcement Ring ❑ (1) Rubber Stopper ❑ (1) Fuel Pick-Up "Clunk" ❑ (1) M3 x 20mm Machine Screw ❑ (1) Silicon Fuel Tubing ❑ (2) Aluminum Tubing

On the Web

FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY

Continued On Next Page

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KIT CONTENTS, CONTINUED....

LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY

❑ (2) Wire-Spoke Wheels ❑ (2) Prebent Steel Struts w/7mm I.D. Steel Collars ❑ (1) Prebent Steel Support Strut ❑ (1) 16" Steel Axle ❑ (2) 8mm I.D. Steel Collars ❑ (2) Nylon Landing Gear Straps (Flat) ❑ (2) Nylon Landing Gear Straps (U-Shaped) ❑ (2) Nylon Spacers ❑ (2) Wheel Collars ❑ (2) M3 x 5mm Machine Screws ❑ (8) M3 Steel Grub Screws ❑ (4) M3 x 10mm Wood Screws ❑ (4) M3 x 12mm Wood Screws

AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM

❑ (2) Aileron Servo Hatch Covers (W34) ❑ (4) Aileron Servo Mounting Blocks (W35) ❑ (2) 1-1/4" Threaded Wires w/Z-Bend ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates ❑ (2) Nylon Clevises ❑ (2) M2 x 20mm Machine Screws ❑ (2) M2 x 25mm Machine Screws ❑ (8) M2 x 10mm Flange-Head Wood Screws ❑ (8) C/A Style Hinges

AILERON INTERLINK CONTROL SYSTEM

❑ (2) 7-1/8" Threaded Wires w/90º Bend ❑ (4) Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates ❑ (2) Nylon Clevises ❑ (2) Nylon 90º Snap Keepers ❑ (8) M2 x 10mm Machine Screws

ELEVATOR & RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEMS

❑ (2) 26" Nylon Pushrod Tubes ❑ (2) 7" Threaded Wires w/Plain End ❑ (2) 2-1/8" Threaded Wires w/Z-Bend ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates ❑ (2) Nylon Clevises ❑ (4) M2 x 10mm Machine Screws ❑ (7) C/A Style Hinges

ENGINE MOUNT ASSEMBLY

❑ (2) Engine Mounting Beams ❑ (4) M3 x 18mm Socket-Cap Screws ❑ (4) M3 x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws ❑ (4) M3 Lock Nuts ❑ (12) M3 Flat Washers

CABANE STRUT ASSEMBLIES

❑ (2) Prebent Aluminum Cabane Struts (6-3/4" Long) ❑ (2) Prebent Aluminum Cabane Struts (5-5/8" Long) ❑ (2) Prebent Aluminum Cabane Struts (7-5/8" Long) ❑ (4) Prebent Aluminum Strut Mounting Plates ❑ (8) M3 x 12mm Wood Screws ❑ (4) M3 Hex Nuts ❑ (4) M3 Lock Nuts ❑ (12) M3 x 10mm Machine Screws ❑ (28) M3 Flat Washers

OUTER STRUT ASSEMBLIES

❑ (4) Precovered Outer Struts (W43) ❑ (2) Precovered Outer Strut Supports (W42) ❑ (8) M3 x 10mm Socket-Cap Screws ❑ (8) M3 Flat Washers

MISCELLANEOUS WING PARTS

❑ (1) Plywood Wing-Screw Doubler (W41) ❑ (2) M4 x 30mm Machine Screws ❑ (2) M4 Flat Washers

MISCELLANEOUS FUSELAGE PARTS

❑ (1) Fiberglass Cowling ❑ (1) Plywood Servo Tray (D36) ❑ (1) Clear Windscreen ❑ (1) Molded Headrest Fairing ❑ (1) Molded Exhaust Fairings Set ❑ (4) M3 x 6mm Wood Screws ❑ (4) M3 Flat Washers ❑ (1) Length of Clear Tubing ❑ (1) Decal Set

SECTION 4: REPLACEMENT PARTS

Global stocks a complete line of replacement parts for your Modeltech SE5a Scout ARF. Listed below are the replacement parts that are available along with their respective part numbers for easy ordering convenience. We suggest ordering directly from your local dealer. If your dealer does not stock Modeltech products, you can order directly from us at the address shown below:

Global Services

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92708

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236

http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

On the Web

Modeltech SE5a Scout ARF - Complete ............... 123680

Instruction Manual ................................................. 120033

Wing Set (Top) ....................................................... 120034

Wing Set (Bottom) ................................................. 120035

Fuselage Set .......................................................... 120036

Stabilizer Set .......................................................... 120037

Fiberglass Cowling ................................................ 120038

Outer Strut Set ....................................................... 120039

Center-Cabane Strut Set ........................................120040

Plastic Detail Parts ................................................. 120041

Hardware Set ..........................................................120042

Fuel Tank Set (240cc) ............................................. 120043

Landing Gear Assembly (No Wheels) .................... 120044

Decal Set ................................................................ 120045

Wire-Spoke Wheels (1 Pair) ................................... 237800

SECTION 5: A NOTE ABOUT COVERING

The covering material used on the Modeltech SE5a Scout ARF is real iron-on, heat-shrink covering material, not cheap "shelf paper." Because of this, it is possible with heat and humidity changes that the covering on your airplane may wrinkle or sag. This trait is inherent in all types of heat-shrink material. To remove any wrinkles that might be visible you will need to purchase, or borrow from a fellow modeler, a heat iron. If you need to purchase one, the Global Heat

Sealing Iron # 360900 is recommended.

Follow this simple procedure to remove the wrinkles:

❑ Plug in and turn on the sealing iron to the medium-high temperature setting. Allow the sealing iron to heat up for

approximately 5 - 7 minutes.

❑ After the sealing iron has reached temperature, lightly apply the sealing iron to the wrinkled section of the covering.

Move the sealing iron slowly over the wrinkled section until the covering tightens and the wrinkles disappear.

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✦IMPORTANT

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back down, it will return to its normal color.

If the color layer smears from any of the seams the temperature of the sealing iron is too hot. Turn the temperature dial

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down and wait about 5 minutes for the sealing iron to adjust to the lower temperature. You can remove any excess color streaks using a paper towel soaked with a small quantity of Acetone.

PRO TIP

sunlight) for any length of time. The extreme heat could cause the covering material to wrinkle or sag and possibly damage the fragile components of the radio system.

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✦ You will notice that the color of the covering will darken when it is heated. When the covering cools

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We do not suggest storing your airplane in an extremely hot environment (like the back of your car in direct

SECTION 6: STABILIZER INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Fuselage ❑ (1) Bottom Wing w/Ailerons ❑ (1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator ❑ (1) Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy ❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Dubro T-Pins ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil

STEP 1: MOUNTING THE BOTTOM WING

❑ Remove the two ailerons and four C/A style hinges from the bottom wing and set them aside for now.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the top and bottom of the two predrilled

holes in the trailing edge of the wing. The holes are located approximately 3/4" in front of the trailing edge and 1-1/4" out from the centerline.

❑ (1) Plywood Wing-Screw Doubler (W41) ❑ (2) M4 x 30mm Machine Screws ❑ (2) M4 Flat Washers

❑ Builder's Triangle ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ Place the wing into the wing saddle, push it forward

completely, then push the trailing edge down into place and line up the predrilled holes in the trailing edge with the predrilled holes in the wing mounting block inside the fuselage.

A slot has been precut in the forward bulkhead to accept

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the wing hold-down tab in the leading edge of the wing.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the top of the two predrilled holes in the

plywood wing-screw doubler. Look carefully at the predrilled holes in the wing-screw doubler. You will notice that they are not centered, but drilled more toward the back edge of the wing-screw doubler. When you install the wing-screw doubler in the next procedure, the back edge of the wing-screw doubler should be even with the trailing edge of the wing.

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✦IMPORTANT

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wing. The wing-screw doubler must be able to be removed when you remove the wing from the fuselage. This is because the landing gear support strut will be mounted permanently to the wing-screw doubler.

❑ Secure the wing into place, using the wing-screw doubler,

two M4 x 30mm machine screws and two M4 flat washers.

Orientate the wing-screw doubler so that the back edge is

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even with the trailing edge of the wing. The wing-screw doubler should not overhang the trailing edge of the wing.

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✦ Do not glue the wing-screw doubler to the

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Continued On Next Page

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STEP 2: ALIGNING THE VERTICAL STABILIZER

❑ Remove the rudder and three hinges from the vertical stabilizer and set them aside for now, then remove the elevator

and four hinges from the horizontal stabilizer and set them aside for now, too.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering

material from over the bottom of the precut slot in the middle of the horizontal stabilizer.

❑ Push the vertical stabilizer into the mounting slot in the top

of the horizontal stabilizer. To align the vertical stabilizer properly, the trailing edge of the vertical stabilizer should be even with the trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer and the vertical stabilizer should be pushed down firmly.

STEP 3: MOUNTING THE VERTICAL STABILIZER

❑ Using a builder's triangle, check to make sure that the

vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the horizontal stabilizer.

❑ While holding the vertical stabilizer firmly in place, use a

pencil to draw a line on each side of the vertical stabilizer where it meets the top of the triangle stock on the horizontal stabilizer.

❑ Remove the vertical stabilizer and use a modeling knife to

carefully cut away and remove the covering material from below the lines you drew.

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✦WARNING

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it, cut with only enough pressure to cut through only the covering itself. Cutting down into the balsa structure could weaken the stabilizer and cause it to fail during flight.

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✦ When cutting through the covering to remove

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Continued On Next Page

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❑ Mix and apply a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy to the gluing surfaces of the vertical stabilizer and to the vertical

stabilizer mounting slot in the top of the horizontal stabilizer.

❑ Push the vertical stabilizer down into place and realign it, double-checking the alignment once more before the epoxy

sets up. Remove any excess epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and use pieces of masking tape to hold the vertical stabilizer in place until the epoxy has fully cured.

Don't forget to double-check that the vertical stabilizer is perpendicular to the horizontal stabilizer.

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STEP 4: ALIGNING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER ASSEMBLY

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering

material from the top of the stabilizer mounting platform.

❑ Set the stabilizer assembly into place and temporarily align

it. The front of the vertical stabilizer should be centered over the middle stringer in the top of the fuselage and the trailing edge of the vertical stabilizer should be lined up with the sides of the fuselage. The trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer should be even with the back edge of the fuselage, too.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, hold the stabilizer assembly in position, using a couple of T-Pins or masking tape.

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✦IMPORTANT

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be installed so that you can line up the stabilizer assembly properly.

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✦ Before proceeding, it's important that the bottom wing be installed securely onto the fuselage. It must

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❑ Use a ruler to carefully measure the distance between the

tips of the horizontal stabilizer and the tips of the bottom wing. Pivot the front of the stabilizer assembly (making sure that the back of the stabilizer assembly stays centered) until both of these measurements are equal. When both measurements are equal, the stabilizer assembly is square to the wing.

❑ When you are satisfied that the stabilizer assembly is square to the wing, use a pencil to draw a couple of marks on

each side of the front of the horizontal stabilizer where it and the fuselage sides meet, then use a couple of pieces of masking tape and/or T-pins to hold the stabilizer assembly firmly in place and aligned.

Continued On Next Page

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❑ With the stabilizer assembly held firmly in place, look from

the front of the airplane at both the wing and the horizontal stabilizer. When aligned properly, the horizontal stabilizer should be parallel to the wing.

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block to sand down the higher side of the stabilizer mounting platform, then reinstall the stabilizer assembly and check the alignment once more. Repeat this procedure until you are satisfied with the alignment.

STEP 5: MOUNTING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER ASSEMBLY

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✦ If the stabilizer assembly is out of alignment, remove it and use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding

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❑ When satisfied with the fit and alignment, make sure that

the stabilizer assembly is secured firmly into place, and use a pencil to draw a line on each side of the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer where it meets the fuselage sides.

❑ Remove the stabilizer assembly. Using a modeling knife,

carefully cut away and remove the covering material from between the lines you drew.

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✦WARNING

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it, cut with only enough pressure to cut through only the covering itself. Cutting down into the balsa structure could weaken the stabilizer and cause it to fail during flight.

❑ Mix a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy and carefully apply a thin layer to the gluing surfaces of the stabilizer

assembly and to the gluing surfaces of the stabilizer mounting platform.

❑ Set the stabilizer assembly back into place and realign it, double-checking all of your measurements once more before

the epoxy sets up. Remember to remove any excess epoxy before it sets up, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.

STEP 6: DOUBLE-CHECKING THE STABILIZER ASSEMBLY GLUE JOINT

❑ After the epoxy has fully cured, remove the masking tape and look closely at the glue joint. If there are any gaps

between the stabilizer assembly and the fuselage sides, fill them using 30 minute epoxy for added strength. Again, before the epoxy sets up, remove any excess, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.

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✦ When cutting through the covering to remove

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SECTION 7: TOP WING INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Top Wing w/Ailerons ❑ (2) Prebent Aluminum Cabane Struts (6-3/4" Long) ❑ (2) Prebent Aluminum Cabane Struts (5-5/8" Long) ❑ (2) Prebent Aluminum Cabane Struts (7-5/8" Long) ❑ (4) Prebent Aluminum Strut Mounting Plates ❑ (8) M3 x 12mm Wood Screws ❑ (4) M3 Hex Nuts

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ Pacer Z-42 Blue Threadlocker ❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ 2.5mm Hex Wrench ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

STEP 1: INSTALLING THE STRUT MOUNTING PLATES

❑ (4) M3 Lock Nuts ❑ (4) Precovered Outer Struts (W43) ❑ (2) Precovered Outer Strut Supports (W42) ❑ (8) M3 x 10mm Socket-Cap Screws ❑ (12) M3 x 10mm Machine Screws ❑ (28) M3 Flat Washers

❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Robart Incidence Meter ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ Remove the two ailerons and four C/A style hinges from the

top wing and set them aside for now.

❑ Turn the wing upside down and carefully install the four

prebent aluminum strut mounting plates to the bottom of the wing, using eight M3 x 12mm wood screws and eight M3 flat washers. Holes have been predrilled in the wing to install the wood screws. This ensures the proper location of the plates.

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✦IMPORTANT

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✦ The vertical sides of the mounting plates

✦✦

should be toward the tips of the wing, as shown.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE CABANE STRUTS

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

✦ When you install the cabane struts in the next few procedures, it's important that you don't completely

✦✦

tighten them down yet. Leave the cabane struts slightly loose so that you are able to make adjustments to the assembly when you install the top wing. This will make it much easier for you to line up the top wing properly. Note that blind nuts have been preinstalled in the fuselage sides to mount the cabane struts to the fuselage, too.

❑ Mount one short cabane strut (5-5/8" long) to the forward

hole in the left side of the fuselage and one longer cabane strut (6-3/4" long) to the rear hole in the left side of the fuselage, using two M3 x 10mm machine screws and two M3 flat washers.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

✦ Note that there are right- and left-side

✦✦

cabane struts. The struts also have a top and a bottom. On the bottom of the struts, the distance between the end of the strut and where the strut is bent is longer than on the top.

Continued On Next Page

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❑ Repeat the previous procedures to mount the remaining two 5-5/8" long and 6-3/4" long cabane struts to the other side

of the fuselage, using two M3 x 10mm machine screws and two M3 flat washers.

❑ Carefully test-fit and install one 7-5/8" long cabane strut to

the forward and rear cabane struts on one side of the fuselage, using two M3 x 10mm machine screws, four M3 flat washers and two M3 hex nuts.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

and the strut is prebent to fit properly only one way.

The cabane strut is mounted onto the outside surface of

☞

the two other cabane struts, as shown.

❑ Repeat the previous procedure to mount the remaining 7-5/8" long cabane strut to the remaining two cabane struts on

the other side of the fuselage, using two M3 x 10mm machine screws, four M3 flat washers and two M3 hex nuts.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

that the forward cabane struts are basically straight up and down and the rear cabane struts are angled forward. This is normal and by design.

STEP 3: INSTALLING THE OUTER STRUTS

The full-size SE5a aircraft features only two vertical outer struts to support each end of both wings. In addition, though, the full-size SE5a features a multitude of flying wires that support the wings and keep them from twisting and getting out of alignment during flight. To keep our stand-off scale model of the SE5a easier to assemble, disassemble and transport, we have opted not to use these cumbersome flying wires, but instead to use a single outer support strut to keep the wings from twisting and getting out of alignment. While not exactly scale, this makes it much easier to disassemble and transport your airplane to and from the flying field.

✦✦

✦ Notice than when the forward and rear cabane struts are joined together with the cabane support strut

✦✦

✦INFORMATION ABOUT THE OUTER STRUTS

✦✦

✦ Note that there are right- and left-side struts

✦✦

✦

✦✦

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over both sides of each predrilled hole in each

end of the four outer struts (W43) and the two outer support struts (W42). Cut away and remove the covering material from the strut mounting tabs on the top and bottom wing, too.

❑ Install two outer struts and one outer support strut to the

plywood mounting tabs on one side of only the bottom wing, using four M3 x 10mm socket-cap screws and four M3 flat washers.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

mounting tab should be mounted directly to the outside surface of the mounting tab. The strut that's mounted to the rear mounting tab should be mounted on the outside surface of the mounting tab, then secured into place by positioning the preinstalled blind nut in one end of the outer support strut onto the inside surface of the mounting tab, as shown.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to mount the remaining two outer struts and the one remaining outer support strut to

the plywood mounting tabs on the other side of the bottom wing. Make sure that the outer struts are mounted to the outside surface of the mounting tabs and that the outer support strut is mounted to the inside surface of the rear strut mounting tab.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

This is normal and by design.

✦✦

✦ When lined up properly, as shown in the photo above, the outer struts will be naturally angled forward.

✦✦

✦ The strut that's mounted to the forward

✦✦

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 4: ALIGNING AND MOUNTING THE TOP WING

❑ With the bottom wing installed onto the fuselage, set the fuselage in your airplane stand and secure it firmly to the stand,

using a couple of large rubber bands or several small weights.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

✦ It's important that the fuselage be secured firmly and cannot move during the next few procedures.

✦✦

❑ Attach your incidence meter to one side of the bottom wing

and check the incidence. Adjust the height of the front or back of the stand and/or fuselage so that the incidence meter reads zero degrees (0º).

It may be necessary to use a block of wood or a book to

☞

prop up one end of your airplane stand. If you need to prop it up, make sure it is secure. It's important that the airplane stand cannot move.

❑ Carefully set the top wing onto the cabane struts and the

outer struts, and temporarily secure it into place. Secure the top wing to the cabane struts, using four M3 x 10mm machine screws, eight M3 flat washers and four M3 lock nuts, then secure the outer struts to the top wing, using four M3 x 10 socket-cap screws and four M3 flat washers.

Airplane shown upside down for photo clarity only

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

the outside surface of the strut mounting tabs and the outer struts and support struts should be mounted in the same manner that they were mounted to the bottom wing.

✦✦

✦ The cabane struts should be mounted on

✦✦

❑ With the top wing held temporarily in place, attach your

incidence meter to one side of the top wing.

❑ Carefully adjust the cabane struts and the outer struts until

the incidence meter reads minus one degree (-1º). When satisfied with the alignment, completely tighten all of the mounting screws and hex nuts to lock the top wing, cabane strut assembly and the outer struts into place.

❑ Remove the incidence meter from the wing, then remove the fuselage from your airplane stand.

❑ Look carefully from the top of the airplane at both the top and the bottom wings. The leading edges and trailing edges

of the top and bottom wings should be parallel to each other. Now, look carefully at the airplane from the front. The top wing should be parallel to the bottom wing and the top wing should be parallel to the horizontal stabilizer, too.

❑ Look carefully from the end of the top and bottom wings and check for any twisting or warping in either wing. Neither

wing should be twisted or warped.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

cabane struts and the outer struts, until you are satisfied with the alignment. Take your time. It's important.

✦✦

✦ If you see any irregularities in the alignment of the wings, you will need to loosen and readjust the

✦✦

Continued On Next Page

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✦✦

✦INFORMATION ABOUT WING ASSEMBLY BEFORE FLIGHT

✦✦

After you're done with the complete assembly of the airplane, but before you fly the airplane for the first time, we strongly suggest that you apply Blue Threadlocker to the machine screws and nuts that secure the cabane strut assembly together. This includes the four machine screws in the fuselage sides and the four machine screws and hex nuts that secure the cabane strut supports to the front and rear cabane struts. It is not necessary to use Blue Threadlocker on the four nylon-insert lock nuts or the four socket-cap screws that hold the outer struts in place.

We strongly suggest removing one by one the eight M3 x 12mm wood screws that hold the aluminum strut mounting plates to the top wing and carefully reinstalling the screws, using a very thin layer of 5 minute epoxy, to secure them into the wing. This will ensure that the wood screws will never come loose during flight.

✦✦

✦

✦✦

SECTION 8: CONTROL SURFACE HINGING

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (15) C/A Style Hinges

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ Kwik Bond C/A Debonder ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ Dubro T-Pins ❑ Paper Towels

STEP 1: HINGING THE AILERONS

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

which two ailerons are hinged to the bottom wing by looking carefully at the bottom of each aileron. The bottom wing ailerons have a preinstalled balsa support block glued behind the leading edge that is used to mount the aileron control horn to. You should be able to see this block pretty easily underneath the covering material.

✦✦

✦ The top and bottom ailerons are different, so make sure that you hinge them correctly. You can tell

✦✦

❑ Push two T-pins through the center of two C/A style aileron

hinges, as shown.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

while you are hinging the aileron.

Each aileron is hinged using two C/A style hinges.

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❑ Working with one aileron for now, slide one hinge into each

hinge slot, making sure that you push each hinge in up to the T-pins. Don't glue the hinges into place yet.

✦✦

✦ The T-pins will keep the hinges centered

✦✦

❑ Push the aileron and its hinges into the hinge slots in the

trailing edge of the wing. The aileron should be pushed firmly up against the trailing edge, so that there is a minimal hinge gap (no more than 1/32"), and the tip of the aileron should be even with the tip of the wing. The inboard edge of the aileron should not rub against the edge of the wing, either.

Continued On Next Page

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❑ Remove the T-pins from the hinges, and while holding the

aileron tight against the wing, pivot the aileron down about 45º and apply 5-6 drops of thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge. Turn the wing over and repeat for the other side of the hinges.

Remove any C/A that may run down the hinge line, using

☞

C/A Debonder.

❑ Allow the C/A to dry for about 15 minutes, then pivot the

aileron up and down several times to free up the hinges.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

trying to pull out the hinges. The hinges should hold securely. If one or more hinge(s) feels loose, apply more C/A to the hinge(s) and allow it to completely cure.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to hinge the remaining three ailerons to the top and bottom wings, making sure to

check the integrity of the hinges after the C/A fully cures.

STEP 2: HINGING THE ELEVATOR & THE RUDDER

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

securely. If one or more hinge(s) feels loose, apply more C/A to the hinge(s) and allow it to completely cure.

✦✦

✦ After the C/A has fully cured, gently grasp the aileron and wing and pull on the aileron like you are

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

rudder. If you hinge the rudder first, it will be impossible to hinge the elevator.

❑ Hinge the elevator and the rudder, using the same techniques

as you used to hinge the ailerons. The elevator is hinged using four hinges and the rudder is hinged using three hinges. You must cut away and remove the covering material from over the precut notch in the leading edge of the rudder before hinging it into place. The notch is located 1-7/8" up from the bottom of the rudder, at the leading edge.

✦✦

✦ After the C/A has fully cured, double-check the integrity of the hinges. The hinges should hold

✦✦

✦ The elevator must be hinged before the

✦✦

SECTION 9: ENGINE INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (2) Engine Mounting Beams ❑ (4) M3 x 18mm Socket-Cap Screws ❑ (4) M3 x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Pacer Z-42 Blue Threadlocker ❑ 2.5mm Hex Wrench ❑ Adjustable Open-End Wrench ❑ Electric Drill

❑ (4) M3 Lock Nuts ❑ (12) M3 Flat Washers

❑ 5/64" & 1/8" Drill Bits ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 1: INSTALLING THE ENGINE MOUNTING BEAMS

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

✦ When installed, the engine mounting beams are spaced to fit the Magnum XLS .40 - .52 size two-

✦✦

stroke engines and the Magnum XL .52 - .61 size four-stroke engines. If the width of the engine you choose is not the same, you will need to modify the spacing of the beams. This can be done by removing the blind nuts and gluing pieces of hardwood dowel into the existing holes. You can then redrill the holes to fit your engine's width and reinstall the blind nuts.

Firewall has right thrust

built-in. This is normal

and by design. This is

the reason the engine

mounting beams are

mounted off-center.

❑ Install the two engine mounting beams onto the firewall,

using four M3 x 18mm socket-cap screws and four M3 flat washers. Tighten the screws firmly to hold the beams securely in place.

Blind nuts have been preinstalled into the back of the

☞

firewall to thread the screws into. We suggest applying Blue Threadlocker to the screws to secure them into place.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

✦ The engine is mounted upright.

✦✦

STEP 2: ALIGNING AND INSTALLING THE ENGINE

❑ Slide the propeller onto your engine and secure it into place, using your engine's propeller washer and nut.

❑ Set the engine onto the engine mounting beams.

❑ Using a ruler, measure the distance from the firewall to the

back of the propeller hub. Adjust the depth of the engine so that the measurement is 4-3/4".

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

✦ It's important that the back of the propeller

✦✦

hub be 4-3/4" from the firewall so that the cowling will line up properly when it's installed later. Do measure to the front of the propeller hub.

❑ Using a pencil, carefully mark the locations of the engine mounting holes onto the mounting beams.

❑ Remove the engine and drill 5/64" diameter pilot holes through the engine mounting beams at the marks you drew.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

✦ Be careful that you drill the holes straight down and not at an angle.

✦✦

❑ Carefully enlarge the 5/64" diameter pilot holes, using a 1/8" diameter drill bit.

❑ Install the engine using four M3 x 25mm socket-cap screws,

eight M3 flat washers and four M3 lock nuts.

Tighten the screws and nuts firmly to hold the engine

☞

securely into place.

SECTION 10: FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY & INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) 240cc Fuel Tank ❑ (1) Large Diameter Metal Plate ❑ (1) Small Diameter Metal Plate ❑ (1) Metal Neck-Reinforcement Ring ❑ (1) Rubber Stopper

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Scissors

STEP 1: ASSEMBLING THE RUBBER STOPPER

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper, carefully smooth and deburr each end of the two aluminum tubes. This will prevent the fuel

tubing from being accidentally cut when it is installed later.

❑ (1) Fuel Pick-Up "Clunk" ❑ (1) M3 x 20mm Machine Screw ❑ (1) Silicon Fuel Tubing ❑ (2) Aluminum Tubing

❑ Ruler ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ Push the two aluminum tubes through the rubber stopper.

Slide the large diameter metal plate over the tubes at the front of the stopper and slide the small diameter metal plate over the tubes at the rear of the stopper.

❑ Using a ruler, measure the distance that the two aluminum

tubes protrude from the front of the stopper assembly. This distance should be 3/8". If it is not, adjust the tubes by pushing them forward or backward until you are satisfied with the alignment.

❑ Carefully bend the longer of the two aluminum tubes up at a 45º angle, being careful not to "kink" the tubing as you

bend it.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

should rest just below the top of the tank. The top of the fuel tank is a farther distance from the center of the fuel tank opening than the bottom of the fuel tank.

❑ Push the M3 x 20mm machine screw through the stopper assembly, from the front, and partially thread it into the small

diameter metal backplate.

✦✦

✦ When the stopper assembly is installed in the fuel tank, the top of the vent tube (the tube you just bent)

✦✦

❑ Secure one end of the silicon fuel tubing onto the end of the

fuel pick-up "clunk."

❑ Slide the silicon fuel tubing, with the fuel pick-up attached,

onto the end of the aluminum fuel pick-up tube (straight tube). While holding the aluminum tube in place, adjust the length of the silicon tubing until the fuel pick-up is 3-3/8" back from the rear of the stopper assembly.

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 2: INSTALLING THE RUBBER STOPPER ASSEMBLY

❑ Carefully push the metal neck-reinforcement ring over the

neck of the molded fuel tank opening.

❑ Carefully push the rubber stopper assembly into the fuel

tank opening and rotate the stopper assembly until the aluminum vent tube rests just below the top of the tank.

PRO TIP

the fuel tank assembly up to a bright light. This will illuminate the inside of the tank.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

of the fuel tank.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, tighten the machine screw until the rubber stopper expands and seals the fuel

tank opening.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

❑ With the rubber stopper assembly installed, double-check to make sure that the fuel pick-up can move freely inside the

fuel tank. Ideally, the fuel pick-up should be about 1/4" in front of the back of the fuel tank.

STEP 3: INSTALLING THE FUEL TANK

❑ Cut two pieces of silicon fuel tubing to a length of 8" and install them to the aluminum tubes at the front of the tank.

PRO TIP

connect them to the engine later on.

❑ Feed the ends of the fuel tubing through the predrilled hole in the firewall and slide the fuel tank into position, making

sure that the stopper assembly lines up with, and is pushed into, the predrilled hole in the firewall.

✦✦

✦ The top of the fuel tank is a farther distance from the center of the fuel tank opening than the bottom

✦✦

✦ Don't overtighten the machine screw or you might strip the threads in the small metal plate.

✦✦

Mark the ends of the silicon tubing "vent" and "pick-up" so you don't confuse them when it comes time to

If you have trouble seeing the vent tube, hold

❑ To align the fuel tank properly, the fuel tank should be pushed forward as far as possible and the bottom of the fuel tank

should rest on the edges of the cutout in the forward bulkhead.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

the fuselage. The top of the fuel tank is a farther distance from the center of the fuel tank opening than the bottom of the fuel tank.

✦✦

✦ When you slide the fuel tank into position, make sure that the top of the fuel tank is toward the top of

✦✦

❑ To secure the fuel tank assembly into place, cut and install

several pieces of foam rubber between the top of the fuel tank and the top of the cutout in the forward bulkhead.

Make sure that the foam rubber will not interfere with

☞

the installation of your engine's throttle pushrod wire, which will be done in the next section.

SECTION 11: THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) 16" Pushrod Wire w/Z-Bend ❑ (1) Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ # 1 & # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Electric Drill

STEP 1: INSTALLING THE SERVO TRAY

❑ (1) Plywood Servo Tray (D36)

❑ 1/16" & 5/64" Drill Bits ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Ruler ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ Place the servo tray onto the balsa support rails, making

sure that the notch in the sides of the servo tray fit around the plywood block on the fuselage sides.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

cutout in the front of the servo tray is toward the right side of the fuselage, as shown. This will ensure that the throttle servo will line up with the throttle pushrod wire when they're installed later.

✦✦

✦ Orientate the servo tray so that the servo

✦✦

❑ When satisfied with the fit, glue the servo tray into place, using a generous amount of 5 minute epoxy. Remove any

excess epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to completely set up before proceeding.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE THROTTLE SERVO

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your throttle servo, making sure to install the collets with the flanges

toward the bottom of the servo.

❑ Install the throttle servo into the cutout in the front of the

plywood servo tray, making sure to first drill 1/16" diameter pilot holes for the mounting screws.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

the right side of the fuselage, as shown.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

the vibration dampening effect of the grommets will be reduced.

✦✦

✦ Don't overtighten the servo mounting screws. If the rubber grommets are completely crushed down,

✦✦

✦ The servo output shaft should be toward

✦✦

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 3: INSTALLING THE THROTTLE PUSHROD & ADJUSTABLE CONNECTOR

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT THROTTLE PUSHROD SETUP FOR FOUR-STROKE ENGINES

✦✦

The hole in the firewall for the throttle pushrod wire has been predrilled from the factory. This hole is positioned to line up with the throttle arm on most .40 - .52 size two-stroke engines. If you are using a four-stroke engine, the hole will likely not line up with your engine's throttle arm. This was the case with the Magnum XL .52RFS four-stroke engine we installed. In our case, we drilled a new hole approximately 1" above the predrilled hole, then fashioned a throttle arm stand-off lever from a machine screw, a couple of nuts and washers and a spare servo arm. This allows the throttle arm to line up properly, without having to make any large bends in the throttle pushrod wire. You could also opt to use a ready-made, four-stroke throttle bellcrank (available from your local hobby shop) to achieve the same result.

❑ Remove the throttle arm from your engine and install the

Z-Bend in the pushrod wire into the outermost hole in the throttle arm.

You may need to enlarge the hole in your engine's throttle

☞

arm, using a 5/64" diameter drill bit, to accommodate the wire.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

for our four-stroke engine from the materials described above.

❑ Slide the plain end of the throttle pushrod wire through the

hole in the firewall.

✦✦

✦ Shown is the throttle arm stand-off we made

✦✦

✦

✦✦

❑ Reinstall the throttle arm onto your engine.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

but you may still need to make a slight bend in the pushrod wire so that it doesn't bind.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away all but one arm from a "4-point" servo horn.

❑ Enlarge the hole in the servo arm that is 9/16" out from the

center of the servo arm, using a 5/64" diameter drill bit.

❑ Install the adjustable servo connector into the enlarged hole.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

tighten the nut completely. You don't want the connector loose, but you do want the adjustable connector to be able to rotate without binding.

PRO TIP

before proceeding.

To prevent the connector nut from loosening during flight, apply a drop of thin C/A to it. Allow the C/A to dry

✦✦

✦ The pushrod wire should line up closely,

✦✦

✦ When threading on the connector nut, don't

✦✦

Continued On Next Page

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❑ Connect your radio system and plug the throttle servo into the receiver. Check to ensure that the throttle servo output

shaft is rotating in the correct direction. When the throttle control stick is moved forward, from the idle to the full throttle position, the servo output shaft should rotate in the correct direction to open your engine's throttle barrel. If it doesn't, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter. In our case, for the Magnum XL .52RFS, the servo output shaft should rotate counter-clockwise to open the throttle barrel.

❑ Position the throttle control stick and the throttle trim lever on your transmitter to their lowest positions.

❑ Slide the adjustable servo connector/servo horn assembly over the plain end of the throttle pushrod wire.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

adjustable connector. Make the bend as shallow as possible to prevent the pushrod wire from flexing during use.

❑ Use wire cutters to cut away and remove the excess pushrod wire, then install and tighten the servo horn retaining

screw to hold the servo horn securely to the servo.

❑ Operate the throttle several times to ensure that the pushrod wire does not bind and that the throttle barrel opens and

closes completely.

✦✦

✦ Before proceeding, you may need to carefully bend the throttle pushrod wire to line up with the

✦✦

❑ After making sure that the throttle barrel is in the fully closed

position, angle the servo horn about 45º from center and attach it to the servo output shaft. The servo connector should be facing the side of the fuselage, as shown.

❑ While holding the throttle barrel fully closed, install and

tighten the machine screw in the top of the adjustable servo connector.

SECTION 12: ELEVATOR & RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEMS INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (2) 26" Nylon Pushrod Tubes ❑ (2) 7" Threaded Wires w/Plain End ❑ (2) 2-1/8" Threaded Wires w/Z-Bend

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Electric Drill

STEP 1: INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR AND RUDDER SERVOS

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your elevator and rudder servos, making sure to install the collets

with the flanges toward the bottom of the servos.

❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates ❑ (2) Nylon Clevises ❑ (4) M2 x 10mm Machine Screws

❑ 1/16" & 5/64" Drill Bits ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Masking Tape

Continued On Next Page

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❑ Install the elevator and rudder servos into the cutouts in the

plywood servo tray, making sure to first drill 1/16" diameter pilot holes for the mounting screws.

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✦IMPORTANT

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the back of the fuselage, as shown.

STEP 2: ASSEMBLING THE ELEVATOR AND RUDDER PUSHRODS

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut both of the 26" long nylon pushrod tubes to a length of 19-3/4" long.

❑ Slide the plain end of one 7" long threaded pushrod wire

into one end of each nylon pushrod tube.

❑ Thread the wires into the tubes until 1/2" of threaded wire

extends past the end of the tubes.

❑ Apply a couple of drops of thin C/A to the end of the tubes.

The C/A will "wick" into the tubes, securing the wires firmly in place.

❑ Thread one 2-1/8" threaded wire w/Z-Bend into the other

end of each nylon pushrod tube until the Z-Bend is 1-1/2" past the end of the tubes.

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✦ The servo output shafts should be toward

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❑ Apply a couple of drops of thin C/A to the end of the tubes.

The C/A will "wick" into the tubes, securing the wires firmly in place.

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✦IMPORTANT

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be 21-3/4" long overall.

STEP 3: INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR PUSHROD ASSEMBLY

❑ Install the Z-Bend in one pushrod assembly into a hole that

is 5/16" out from the center of a plastic servo wheel.

You may need to enlarge the hole in the servo wheel,

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using a 5/64" diameter drill bit, so that the Z-Bend will fit.

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✦IMPORTANT

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on top of the servo wheel, as shown.

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✦ When assembled, the pushrods should

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✦ The pushrod wire should be orientated

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❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the elevator pushrod exit hole in the left side

of the fuselage. The hole is located 3-3/4" in front of the rudder hinge line and 7/8" below the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer.

❑ Connect your radio system and plug the elevator servo (on the left side of the fuselage) into the receiver. Double-check

that the elevator trim lever on your transmitter is centered.

❑ Carefully slide the threaded end of the pushrod assembly

into the preinstalled pushrod housing on the left side of the fuselage. Do this from inside the fuselage.

❑ Install the servo wheel onto your elevator servo, making

sure that it's centered. The pushrod wire should be toward the fuselage side, as shown.

❑ Install the servo horn retaining screw to secure the servo

wheel to the servo.

❑ Position one nylon control horn onto the bottom of the

elevator. When aligned properly, the centerline of the control horn should be 15/16" out from the side of the fuselage (at the hinge line) and the clevis attachment holes should be lined up over the hinge line. The base of the control horn should be angled slightly toward the fuselage side, too, so that it lines up better with the pushrod assembly.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, mark and drill 5/64"

diameter pilot holes through the elevator for the control horn mounting screws.

PRO TIP

and allow the C/A to fully cure. The C/A will harden the surrounding balsa, making the mounting area stronger.

❑ Install the control horn and backplate using two M2 x 10mm machine screws, being careful not to overtighten them.

❑ Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the elevator and the stabilizer, to hold the elevator centered.

❑ Remove the masking tape from the elevator and double-check that the servo wheel and the elevator are still

centered. If the elevator is not centered, adjust the clevis until it is. Move the elevator up and down several times to ensure that the pushrod assembly does not bind. It should operate smoothly.

Before installing the control horn in the next procedure, drip several drops of thin C/A into the pilot holes

❑ Thread one nylon clevis onto the pushrod wire and snap

the clevis into the outermost hole in the control horn.

Hold the pushrod assembly with a pair of pliers to prevent

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it from turning while installing the clevis.

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 4: INSTALLING THE RUDDER PUSHROD ASSEMBLY

❑ The rudder pushrod assembly is installed in the same manner as the elevator pushrod assembly was installed. Begin

by using a modeling knife to cut away and remove the covering material from over the rudder pushrod exit hole in the right side of the fuselage. The hole is located 3-3/4" in front of the rudder hinge line and 7/8" below the bottom of the horizontal stabilizer.

❑ Connect your radio system and plug the rudder servo into the receiver. Double-check that the rudder trim lever on your

transmitter is centered.

❑ Install the Z-Bend in the remaining pushrod assembly into

a hole that is 5/16" out from the center of a plastic servo wheel.

❑ Slide the threaded end of the pushrod assembly into the

preinstalled pushrod housing from inside the fuselage, then install the servo wheel onto your rudder servo, making sure that it's centered. The pushrod wire should be toward the fuselage side, as shown.

❑ Install the servo horn retaining screw to secure the servo

wheel to the servo.

❑ Position the remaining nylon control horn onto the right

side of the rudder. When aligned properly, the centerline of the control horn should be 7/8" up from the bottom of the rudder (at the hinge line) and the clevis attachment holes should be lined up over the hinge line. The base of the control horn should be parallel to the rudder hinge line, too, so that it lines up with the pushrod assembly.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, mark and drill 5/64"

diameter pilot holes through the rudder for the control horn mounting screws.

PRO TIP

and allow the C/A to fully cure. The C/A will harden the surrounding balsa, making the mounting area stronger.

❑ Install the control horn and backplate using two M2 x 10mm machine screws, being careful not to overtighten them. ❑ Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the rudder and the stabilizer, to hold the rudder centered.

❑ Remove the masking tape from the rudder and double-check that the servo wheel and the rudder are still centered.

If the rudder is not centered, adjust the clevis until it is. Move the rudder right and left several times to ensure that the pushrod assembly does not bind. It should operate smoothly.

Before installing the control horn in the next procedure, drip several drops of thin C/A into the pilot holes

❑ Thread one nylon clevis onto the pushrod wire and snap

the clevis into the outermost hole in the control horn.

Hold the pushrod assembly with a pair of pliers to prevent

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it from turning while installing the clevis.

SECTION 13: AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (2) Aileron Servo Hatch Covers (W34) ❑ (4) Aileron Servo Mounting Blocks (W35) ❑ (2) 1-1/4" Threaded Wires w/Z-Bend ❑ (2) 7-1/8" Threaded Wires w/90º Bend ❑ (6) Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates ❑ (4) Nylon Clevises

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy ❑ # 1 & # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers ❑ 2.5mm Hex Wrench ❑ Adjustable Open-End Wrench ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Electric Drill ❑ 1/16" & 5/64" Drill Bits

❑ (2) Nylon 90º Snap Keepers ❑ (2) M2 x 20mm Machine Screws ❑ (2) M2 x 25mm Machine Screws ❑ (8) M2 x 10mm Flange-Head Wood Screws ❑ (8) M2 x 10mm Machine Screws

❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

STEP 1: INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVOS

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto one aileron servo, making sure to install the collets with the flanges

toward the bottom of the servo.

❑ Connect your radio system and plug the aileron servo into the receiver. Center the servo by double-checking that the

aileron trim lever on your transmitter is centered.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away all but one arm from a

large "4-point" servo horn.

❑ Install the servo horn onto the servo, making sure that it's

centered, as shown.

❑ Install the servo horn retaining screw to secure the servo

horn to the servo.

❑ Plug one 12" servo extension onto the aileron servo lead.

❑ To prevent the servo lead from pulling apart during

assembly, or worse, during flight, secure the plugs together, using a short piece of 3/8" diameter heat-shrink tubing.

Continued On Next Page

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❑ Using modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the precut slot in one servo hatch cover.

❑ Temporarily place the aileron servo, along with two servo

mounting blocks, onto the bottom of the servo hatch cover. The servo arm should be inserted through, and centered within, the precut slot, as shown. It's important that the middle of the servo arm be 9/16" behind the front of the slot, too.

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✦IMPORTANT

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blocks so that it doesn't interfere with the servo wire.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, mark the locations of

the servo mounting blocks onto the servo hatch cover.

❑ Remove the servo and glue the two servo mounting blocks into place, using a generous amount of 5 minute

epoxy. Remove any excess epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to completely set up before proceeding.

❑ After the epoxy has completely set up, mount the servo

securely to the servo mounting blocks.

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✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

drill 1/16" diameter pilot holes for the mounting screws.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to install your second

aileron servo onto the remaining servo hatch cover.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVO HATCH COVER ASSEMBLIES

✦✦

✦ You will need to cut a notch in one of the

✦✦

✦ To prevent the blocks from splitting, first

✦✦

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away and remove the

covering material from over the two aileron servo hatches in the bottom of the bottom wing. The servo hatches are 2-1/2" square and are located directly in front of the aileron hinge line, 6" in from the wing tip.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the two precut aileron servo lead exit

holes in the top of the bottom wing. The holes are located near the centerline of the wing, 4-3/4" in front of the trailing edge.

❑ Working with one servo hatch cover assembly for now, run the servo extension lead through the factory-installed paper

tube; run it through the tube from the servo hatch and out the servo extension exit hole.

❑ Set the servo hatch cover assembly into place, making sure that the servo arm is positioned toward the leading edge

and the tip of the wing.

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❑ While holding the servo hatch cover assembly firmly in place,

carefully drill four 1/16" diameter pilot holes into the servo hatch cover and through the mounting blocks in the wing. Locate each of the four holes 1/8" in from each corner of the servo hatch cover.

❑ Secure the servo hatch cover assembly to the wing, using

four M2 x 10mm flange-head wood screws.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to install the second servo hatch cover assembly into the other half of the wing.

STEP 3: INSTALLING THE AILERON PUSHROD ASSEMBLIES

❑ Working with one servo assembly for now, enlarge the hole in the servo arm that is 9/16" out from the center of the servo

arm, using a 5/64" diameter drill bit.

❑ Connect your radio system and plug the aileron servo into the receiver. Double-check that the aileron trim lever on your

transmitter is centered.

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✦IMPORTANT

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servo arm previously.

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✦ Verify that the servo arm is still centered. It should be, since you centered it when installing the

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❑ Install the Z-Bend in one 1-1/4" long threaded aileron

pushrod wire into the hole that you enlarged. When installing the pushrod wire, make sure that the long portion of the wire is toward the outside of the servo arm, as shown.

❑ Position one nylon control horn onto the bottom of the

aileron. When aligned properly, the centerline of the control horn should be directly behind the aileron pushrod wire and the clevis attachment holes should be lined up over the hinge line. The base of the control horn should be parallel to the aileron hinge line, too.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, mark and drill 5/64"

diameter pilot holes through the aileron for the control horn mounting screws.

PRO TIP

and allow the C/A to fully cure. The C/A will harden the surrounding balsa, making the mounting area stronger.

❑ Install the control horn and backplate, using one M2 x 25mm machine screw and one M2 x 20mm machine screw, being

careful not to overtighten them. The 25mm long machine screw is installed in the front of the control horn.

Before installing the control horn in the next procedure, drip several drops of thin C/A into the pilot holes

Continued On Next Page

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❑ Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the aileron and the wing, to hold the aileron centered.

❑ Thread one nylon clevis onto the pushrod wire and snap it

into the outermost hole in the control horn.

Hold the pushrod wire with a pair of pliers to prevent it

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from turning while installing the clevis.

❑ Remove the masking tape from the aileron and double-check that the servo arm and the aileron are still centered. If the

aileron is not centered, adjust the clevis until it is. Move the aileron up and down several times to ensure that the pushrod assembly does not bind.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to install the second aileron pushrod assembly.

STEP 4: INSTALLING THE AILERON INTERLINK PUSHRODS

❑ Carefully install the top and bottom wing assemblies onto the fuselage, including the outer strut assemblies.

❑ Working with one half of the wing for now, install one nylon

control horn and backplate assembly onto the top of the bottom wing aileron, using two M2 x 10mm machine screws. When aligned properly, the centerline of the control horn should be 1-7/8" out from the inside edge of the aileron and the base of the control horn should be parallel to, and even with, the trailing edge of the aileron. The clevis attachment holes will hang past the trailing edge of the aileron. This is what you want.

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✦IMPORTANT

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toward the back of the airplane, as shown.

PRO TIP

the C/A to fully cure. The C/A will harden the surrounding balsa, making the mounting area stronger.

PRO TIP

the C/A to fully cure. The C/A will harden the surrounding balsa, making the mounting area stronger.

Remember, before installing the control horn, drip several drops of thin C/A into the pilot holes and allow

❑ Install one nylon control horn and backplate assembly onto

the bottom of the top wing aileron, using two M2 x 10mm machine screws. When aligned properly, the centerline of the control horn should be 1-7/8" out from the inside edge of the aileron and the base of the control horn should be parallel to, and even with, the trailing edge of the aileron. The clevis attachment holes will hang past the trailing edge of the aileron. This is what you want.

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✦IMPORTANT

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toward the back of the airplane, as shown.

Remember, before installing the control horn, drip several drops of thin C/A into the pilot holes and allow

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✦ The clevis attachment holes should be

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✦ The clevis attachment holes should be

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Continued On Next Page

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❑ Thread one nylon clevis onto one of the 7-1/8" long aileron

interlink pushrod wires. When the clevis is in the correct position, the distance between the 90º bend in the pushrod wire and the nylon clevis pin should be 7-5/8".

Hold the pushrod wire with a pair of pliers to prevent it

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from turning while installing the clevis.

❑ Connect your radio system and plug the aileron servo into the receiver. Double-check that the aileron trim lever on your

transmitter is centered. Double-check that the bottom wing aileron is centered, too.

❑ Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the aileron and the top wing, to hold the aileron centered.

❑ Install the 90º bend in the pushrod wire into the outermost

hole in the top aileron control horn, using the nylon snap keeper provided. When installing the snap keeper, make sure it "snaps" firmly into place over the pushrod wire.

❑ Snap the nylon clevis into the outermost hole in the

bottom wing control horn.

❑ Remove the masking tape from the aileron and double-check that both ailerons are still centered. If the ailerons are not

centered, adjust the clevis until they are. Move the ailerons up and down several times to ensure that the pushrod interlink assembly does not bind and to ensure that both ailerons move up and down the same amount.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to install the second aileron interlink pushrod assembly.

SECTION 14: LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A ❑ Pacer Z-42 Blue Threadlocker ❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

❑ (2) Nylon Spacers ❑ (2) Wheel Collars ❑ (2) M3 x 5mm Machine Screws ❑ (8) M3 Steel Grub Screws ❑ (4) M3 x 10mm Wood Screws ❑ (4) M3 x 12mm Wood Screws

❑ Electric Drill ❑ 5/64" Drill Bit ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 1: INSTALLING THE LANDING GEAR WIRES

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering

material from over the precut landing gear mounting slot in the bottom of the fuselage. The slot is 4-1/4" long and 5/16" wide, and is located 5/8" in front of the forward bulkhead.

❑ Insert the 90º bend in each of the main landing gear

wires into the predrilled hole in each end of the landing gear mounting slot.

❑ Push the landing gear wires firmly down into the slot.

❑ Position two flat nylon straps over the landing gear wires,

equal distances from each end of the wires.

❑ While holding the nylon straps in place, use a pencil to mark

the locations of the mounting screws onto the fuselage.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE STEEL SUPPORT STRUT

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✦IMPORTANT

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straps are centered over the landing gear wires when you mark the positions of the mounting screw holes.

❑ Remove the nylon landing gear straps and drill four 5/64"

diameter pilot holes into the bottom of the fuselage.

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✦IMPORTANT

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❑ Carefully install the nylon landing gear straps, using four

M3 x 12mm wood screws.

❑ Slide the 90º bend in one end of the support strut up through

the steel collar preinstalled on one landing gear wire.

❑ Orientate the support strut onto the inside edge of the

landing gear wire, then push the support strut up and the steel collar down, so that the bend in the support strut is even with the bend in the landing gear wire.

✦✦

✦ Make sure that the nylon landing gear

✦✦

✦ Be careful not to drill through the fuel tank.

✦✦

❑ Turn the steel collar so that the threaded holes are toward

the back of the steel wires, then install and tighten two M3 grub screws, to secure the steel collar, support strut and the landing gear wire together.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to secure the other side of the steel support strut to the second landing gear wire.

Continued On Next Page

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❑ With the bottom wing installed, line up the back of the steel

support strut with the wing-screw doubler. When positioned properly, the support strut should be centered from side to side over the wing-screw doubler and the support strut should be just in front of the two wing hold-down screws.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, secure the support strut

into place, using two U-shaped nylon landing gear straps and four M3 x 10mm wood screws. Position the nylon straps near the outer edges of the wing-screw doubler, as shown.

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✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

longer screws will thread down through the wing-screw doubler and into the wing, which you don't want to happen.

When you want to remove the bottom wing, first remove the top wing assembly, then loosen and completely remove the two M4 x 30mm machine screws holding the bottom wing in place. Gently lift up on the wing-screw doubler (the back of the steel support strut will flex up slightly) and pull the wing out of the fuselage. The wing-screw doubler will stay secured to the steel support strut. This allows you to remove the bottom wing without having to remove the nylon straps and steel support strut. This is why we didn't have you glue the wing-screw doubler to the wing back in section # 6.

STEP 3: INSTALLING THE STEEL AXLE

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

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using Blue Threadlocker. This will ensure that the screws won't come loose during flight.

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✦ Make sure that you use the M3 x 10mm wood screws to secure the nylon straps into place; otherwise,

✦✦

❑ Position the steel axle onto the front surface of the two

landing gear wires, then slide one 8mm I.D. steel collar over each end of the steel axle, to hold the axle temporarily in place.

❑ Center the steel axle, so that equal amounts of the axle

extend beyond the ends of the landing gear wires.

❑ Turn the steel collars so that the threaded holes are toward

the bottom of the steel wires, then install and tighten two M3 grub screws in each steel collar, to secure the steel collars, axle and the two landing gear wires together.

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✦ We strongly suggest removing one-by-one the eight grub screws and carefully reinstalling the screws,

✦✦

STEP 4: INSTALLING THE WHEELS

❑ Slide one nylon spacer onto each axle, followed by one

wire-spoke wheel.

❑ Secure each wheel into place, using one wheel collar and

M3 x 5mm machine screw, double-checking that the wheels spin without binding.

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✦IMPORTANT

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Threadlocker to the machine screws before installing them, to prevent them from loosening during flight.

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✦ We suggest applying a drop of Blue

✦✦

SECTION 15: COWLING INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Fiberglass Cowling ❑ (4) M3 x 6mm Wood Screws

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Electric Drill ❑ 1/16" & 5/64" and Other Assorted Drill Bits ❑ Rotary Tool w/Cutting Disc & Sanding Drum

STEP 1: ALIGNING THE COWLING

❑ Remove the needle valve assembly and muffler from your engine and set them aside.

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✦WARNING

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strongly suggest covering the engine exhaust port, carburetor opening and needle valve inlet with small pieces of paper towel.

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✦ To prevent dust and debris from entering your engine during the fitting and aligning of the cowling, we

✦✦

❑ (4) M3 Flat Washers

❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels

❑ Using a rotary tool with a cutting disc, carefully cut out

the two air-intake holes that are molded in the front of the cowling.

Work slowly, removing small amounts of material at a time,

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so you don't damage the cowling.

PRO TIP

air-intake holes, using 5 minute epoxy. Cut the screen door material slightly larger than the air-intake, then glue it into place from inside the cowling. If you want, you can also paint the screen door material black. This is pretty easy to do and looks much better than just two large open holes.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, use pieces of masking tape to hold the cowling securely in place and aligned.

For a more scale appearance, we carefully glued two small pieces of screen door material over the

❑ Slide the cowling over the engine and onto the fuselage.

❑ Line up the front of the cowling, using your engine's drive

washer as a guide. When aligned properly, the cowling should be centered around the drive washer and the front of the cowling should be about 1/8" - 3/16" behind the front of the drive washer. The back of the cowling should fit firmly around the front of the fuselage, too.

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 2: MOUNTING THE COWLING

❑ With the cowling held firmly in alignment, drill 1/16" diameter

pilot holes into the cowling and through the sides of the fuselage for the four wood screws. Locate two holes on each side of the cowling, 3/16" in front of the back edge of the cowling. Position the holes approximately 1/2" and 3-3/4" above the bottom of the cowling.

❑ Remove the cowling and enlarge only the holes in the cowling, using a 5/64" diameter drill bit.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

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❑ To strengthen the holes in the fuselage that the wood screws will thread into, carefully apply a couple of drops of thin

C/A into the holes and let it dry completely before installing the cowling. Do not screw the cowling into place yet, though.

❑ After you've made all the necessary cutouts in the cowling, install your in-cowl fueling valve. Slide the cowling partially

into place and connect the fuel lines from the fuel tank to the fueling valve, carburetor and muffler pressure tap.

❑ Slide the cowling into position and realign it. Install and tighten the four M3 x 6mm wood screws and M3 flat washers to

hold the cowling firmly in place. Install your high speed needle valve, muffler and propeller assembly to finish off the assembly.

✦✦

✦ Enlarging the holes will prevent the fiberglass from being cracked when you install the wood screws.

✦✦

❑ At this time you should make the rest of the cutouts in the

cowling for your engine. These include cutouts for the high and low speed needle valves, glow plug access, in-cowl fueling valve and muffler assembly. You must also cut out the bottom of the cowling so that hot air can exit. This will ensure that your engine cools properly and doesn't overheat.

SECTION 16: FINAL ASSEMBLY

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Clear Windscreen ❑ (1) Molded Headrest Fairing

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Scissors ❑ Electric Drill ❑ 5/64" Drill Bit ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand

❑ (1) Molded Exhaust Fairings Set ❑ (1) Decal Set

❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 1: INSTALLING THE WINDSCREEN & HEADREST FAIRING

❑ Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut out the windscreen

along the molded scribe lines.

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully

sand the edges of the windscreen smooth and straight.

❑ Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut out the headrest along

its molded base, leaving about 1/8" of material to use as a gluing surface.

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, carefully

sand the edges of the headrest smooth and straight.

❑ Carefully glue the windscreen and headrest to the fuselage,

using a thin layer of Formula 560 canopy glue. Remove any excess glue, using a paper towel and water, and hold the parts in place, using pieces of masking tape, until the glue completely cures.

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✦IMPORTANT

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The C/A (unless plastic-safe) will fog up the plastic parts.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE EXHAUST FAIRINGS

❑ Using a pair of scissors, carefully cut out each exhaust fairing along its molded base, leaving about 1/8" of material to

use as a gluing surface. Use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block to sand the edges smooth and straight.

❑ Carefully glue one exhaust fairing onto each side of the

cowling, using a thin layer of Formula 560 canopy glue. Remove any excess glue, using a paper towel and water, and hold the exhaust fairings in place, using pieces of masking tape, until the glue completely cures.

✦✦

✦ Do not use C/A to glue the parts into place.

✦✦

Continued On Next Page

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☛☛

STEP 3: INSTALLING YOUR RECEIVER, AIRBORNE BATTERY & SWITCH

PRO TIP

How the airplane initially balances will determine where you need to mount the receiver and battery.

❑ Wrap the receiver and battery in foam rubber to protect them from vibration. Use masking tape or rubber bands to hold

the foam in place. Do not wrap the foam rubber too tightly or the vibration dampening quality will be reduced.

❑ After you've found the final location of the receiver and battery, mount them into the fuselage using your favorite

method. Strips of Velcro fuselage sides.

❑ Mount the switch to the fuselage side (opposite the muffler) and connect the battery lead to the switch, and the switch

and servo leads to the receiver.

PRO TIP

where the instrument panel would be, you'll still have room to install an optional pilot figure.

We don't suggest permanently installing the receiver and battery until you have balanced the airplane.

work well or sandwich them in place using a couple of scraps of balsa wood glued between the

❑ After installing the receiver, drill a 5/64" diameter hole

through the fuselage for the antenna to exit. Unwrap the receiver antenna and feed it out through the hole.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully make an antenna mount

out of an extra servo horn. Remove one of the arms and cut it into the shape shown.

❑ Use the modified servo arm and a rubber band and T-Pin to

secure the end of the antenna to the tail skid.

For a cleaner appearance, you can opt to mount the on/off switch inside the cockpit area. If you mount it

STEP 4: APPLYING THE DECALS

❑ Using a clean cloth, wipe the airframe down completely to remove any dust, debris and oil. We suggest using rubbing

alcohol to wipe the airframe down in the areas where the decals will be applied.

❑ Cut out each of the decals and apply them, using the box cover photos for reference.

PRO TIP

If any air bubbles form under the decals you can "prick" the bubbles with a pin to release the air.

At this time, assembly of your new SE5a Scout ARF

is completed. You might want to take the time now to add

those small personal scale details to your new airplane.

These might include the addition of a WWI era pilot figure, a

machine gun mounted to the top wing or any other

scale-type accessories you desire.

SECTION 17: BALANCING THE SE5a SCOUT ARF

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Ruler

✦✦

✦

✦✦

IMPORTANT

control and crash!

✦✦

✦

✦✦

It is critical that your airplane be balanced correctly. Improper balance will cause your airplane to lose

❑ Masking Tape

Center of Gravity Location:

2-3/8" to 2-3/4" back from the leading edge of the TOP wing, measured at the wing centerline.

✦✦

✦

✦✦

WARNING

the range (2-9/16"), then move it farther back as you become familiar with the flying characteristics of the airplane. It is not recommended that the C/G be located any farther back than 2-3/4".

Balance the SE5a Scout ARF with the fuel tank empty.

☞

❑ Install both wings onto the fuselage. Make sure to install the outer struts, too. Apply two short pieces of masking tape

onto the bottom of the TOP wing, 2-9/16" back from the leading edge, measured at the wing centerline.

❑ Place your fingers on the masking tape, and carefully lift the airplane. If the nose of the airplane falls, the airplane is

nose heavy. To correct this, move the battery pack and/or receiver back far enough to bring the airplane into balance. If the tail of the airplane falls, the airplane is tail heavy. To correct this, move the battery pack and/or receiver forward far enough to bring the airplane into balance. When balanced correctly, the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift it up with your fingers at the C/G location.

Once you have flown and become familiar with the flight characteristics of the airplane, the C/G can be moved fore or

☞

aft within the C/G range to change the flight performance. Moving the C/G back will cause the airplane to be more responsive, but less stable. Moving the C/G forward will cause the airplane to be more stable, but less responsive.

✦✦

✦

✦✦

This is the recommended C/G range. For test-flying we suggest you start with the C/G in the middle of

DO NOT FLY THE AIRPLANE BEYOND THE RECOMMENDED BALANCE RANGE OR AN

UNCONTROLLABLE CRASH COULD RESULT!

SECTION 18: CONTROL THROWS

We recommend setting up the SE5a Scout ARF using the control throws listed below. These control throws are suggested for initial test-flying because they will allow the airplane to fly smoother and make it easier to control.

TEST-FLYING

Ailerons: 1/4" Up 1/4" Down

Elevator: 1/2" Up 1/2" Down

Rudder: 1/2" Right 1/2" Left

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

✦VERY IMPORTANT

✦✦

cutting 1/4" lengths of the clear tubing provided and sliding one piece over each clevis. The tubing will prevent the clevises from popping open during flight.

✦✦

✦ The control throws are measured from the widest point of the control surfaces.

✦✦

✦ After you are finished adjusting the pushrods and the control throws, we strongly suggest

✦✦

Continued On Next Page

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CONTROL THROWS, CONTINUED....

Once you're familiar with the flight characteristics of the airplane, you might want to increase the control throws to the sport-flying settings listed below. These control throws will make the airplane more responsive and allow you to do basic barnstorming aerobatics with ease.

SPORT-FLYING

Ailerons: 5/8" Up 5/8" Down

Elevator: 3/4" Up 3/4" Down

Rudder: 7/8" Right 7/8" Left

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

✦VERY IMPORTANT

✦✦

✦ The control throws are measured from the widest point of the control surfaces.

✦✦

✦ We do not suggest increasing the control throws beyond the recommended sport-flying

✦✦

settings unless you are a very proficient flyer. Higher control throws will cause the airplane to be extremely control-sensitive and result in a possible crash if you are not careful.

SECTION 19: PREFLIGHT CHECK & SAFETY

●

Completely charge the transmitter and receiver batteries before your first day of flying.

●

Check every bolt and every glue joint in the airplane to ensure that everything is tight and well-bonded. This

should include all of the control surface hinges as well.

●

Double-check that you've installed and tightened all of the servo horn retaining screws.

●

Double-check that the receiver and battery are properly secured in the fuselage. There's nothing worse than the

battery pack coming loose during flight.

●

Double-check the balance of the airplane. Do this with the fuel tank EMPTY.

●

Check the control surfaces. They should all move in the correct direction and not bind.

●

Make sure that you've installed 1/4" long pieces of clear tubing over the clevises to prevent them from opening

during flight.

●

If your radio transmitter is equipped with dual rate switches, double-check that they are on the low-rate setting for your

first few flights.

●

Check to ensure that all of the control surfaces are moving the proper amount in both low and high rate settings.

●

Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage.

●

Properly balance the propeller. A propeller that is out of balance will cause excessive vibration, which could lead to

engine and/or airframe failure, and it will reduce engine efficiency and power.

PRODUCT EVALUATION SHEET

Telling us what you like and don't like determines what model kits we make and how we make them. We would appreciate it if you would take a few minutes of your time to answer the following questions about this kit and your modeling interests. Simply fold this form on the dotted lines, seal with tape and mail it to us. Do not use staples and make sure our address faces out.

Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell,

trade, or rent your personal information to others. Your privacy is important to us.

1) Kit: Modeltech SE5a Scout ARF # 123680

2) Where did you learn about this kit?

❑ Magazine Ads ❑ Friend ❑ Hobby Shop ❑ Other ❑ Internet

3) What influenced you the most to buy this kit?

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4) Did you have any trouble understanding the written instructions? If yes, please explain.

❑ Ye s ❑ No

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❑ Damaged ❑ Wrong Size ❑ Missing ❑ Wrong Shape

If you checked any of the boxes above, did you contact our Customer Service Department to resolve the problem?

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❑ Ye s ❑ No

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Model Tech SE5a SCOUT Instructions Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual