Model Tech Extra 300 Instructions Manual

Instructions for Final Assembly

Thank you for purchasing the new Modeltech Extra 300 ARF . This is a stand-of f scale .25-.36 size model of the full size Extra 300. Aerobatic pilot and aircraft designer Walter Extra developed the Extra 300 in 1987. The Extra’s shape epitomized the modern, sleek unlimited aerobatic monoplane.

Utilizing a powerful 300 horsepower 6 cylinder engine, an airframe built of Aluminum, Carbon Fiber, Plexiglass and Honeycomb materials all added up to a lightweight airframe with a considerable power to weight ratio. This combination is perfect for aerobatics.

Now you can share the same excitement as the full size Extra pilots. The Modeltech Extra 300 comes factory prebuilt using only the finest grades of balsa, plywood and adhesives. Covering is heat shrink polyester , just like you would use on a model you built yourself. A molded plastic top deck and belly pan, molded fiberglass cowl and molded clear canopy help accentuate that sleek, aerobatic look. The Extra comes complete with all the hardware you need, including a fuel tank, spinner , wheels, C/A hinges and much, much more. It's amazing that all this can be designed into such a small package, but Modeltech has done it again. But don't let the small size of the Extra fool you. This Extra is big on performance, just like the full size Extra it's modeled after . It's also easy to assemble. You'll be doing lomcevaks and inverted snaps in no time!

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Kit Contents.....................................................................2

Additional Items Required...............................................3

Tools and Supplies Needed.............................................3

Field Support Equipment Needed...................................3

Metric Conversion Chart.................................................3

Wing Assembly................................................................4

Install the Dihedral Brace........................................4

Joining the Wing Halves..........................................4

Wing Mounting...............................................................5

Aligning the Wing...................................................5

Installing the Blind Nuts..........................................5

Installing the Wing Bolt Doubler.............................6

Installing the Wing...................................................6

Belly Pan Installation......................................................6

Installing the Belly Pan Doubler..............................6

Aligning the Belly Pan.............................................7

Installing the Belly Pan............................................7

Horizontal Stabilizer Installation.....................................7

Aligning the Horizontal Stabilizer............................7

Mounting the Horizontal Stabilizer..........................8

Hinging the Elevator.................................................8

Vertical Stabilizer Installation.........................................8

Aligning the Vertical Stabilizer................................8

Mounting the Vertical Stabilizer..............................9

Control Surface Hinging.................................................9

Hinging the Ailerons................................................9

Install the Tail Wheel Wire.....................................10

Hinging the Rudder................................................10

Mounting the Tail Wheel Bracket..........................10

Installing the Tail Wheel........................................10

Main Gear Installation...................................................10

Installing the Gear Bracket.....................................11

Installing the Wheel Pants......................................11

Adjusting the Wheel Pants.....................................11

Engine Mounting...........................................................12

Mounting the Engine to the Motor Mount.............12

Aligning the Motor Mount.....................................12

Mounting the Engine to the Firewall.....................13

Fuel Tank.......................................................................13

Assemble the Fuel Tank.........................................13

Fuel Tank Installation.............................................14

Throttle Linkage............................................................14

Installing the Throttle Linkage...............................14

Servo Installation...........................................................14

Installing the Fuselage Servo Tray.........................14

Installing the Fuselage Servos................................14

Installing the Aileron Servo Plates.........................15

Installing the Aileron Servo...................................15

Throttle Connection.......................................................15

Installing the Throttle Clevis.................................15

Rudder Pushrod.............................................................16

Installing the Rudder Control Horn........................16

Installing the Rudder Pushrod................................16

Elevator Pushrod...........................................................17

Installing the Elevator Control Horn......................17

Installing the Elevator Pushrod..............................17

Servo Hatch...................................................................18

Installing the Servo Hatch......................................18

Aileron Linkage.............................................................18

Installing the Aileron Linkage................................18

Cowl Installation............................................................19

Installing the Cowl.................................................19

Pilot................................................................................20

Pilot Assembly........................................................20

Pilot Installation.....................................................21

Canopy...........................................................................21

Installing the Canopy..............................................21

Final Assembly..............................................................21

Installing the Receiver and Battery........................21

Installing the Switch..............................................21

Balancing......................................................................22

Lateral Balance......................................................22

Control Throws.............................................................22

Flight Preparation.........................................................22

Preflight Check......................................................23

Flying............................................................................23

Notes.............................................................................24

Trim Chart.....................................................................25

Product Evaluation.......................................................26

Modeltech guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship, at the date of purchase. This does not cover any components parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Modeltech's liability

exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.

In that Modeltech has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgable help with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors. You can also contact the AMA at the address below.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN. 47302-9252

(800) 435-9262

www.modelaircraft.org

This instruction manual is designed to help you build a straight, great flying airplane. Please read this manual thoroughly before beginning assembly of your new Extra 300. Use the parts listing below to identify and separate all of the parts before beginning assembly.

ÄKIT CONTENTSÃ We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for better identification during assembly . W e recommend that you regroup the parts in the same manner . This will ensure you have all of the parts required before you begin assembly and will also help you familiarize yourself with each part.

KIT CONTENTS

AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES

q {2} Wing Halves w/Ailerons, Hinges & Torque Rods q {1} Fuselage w/Servo Hatch q {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator & Hinges q {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder & Hinges q {1} Molded Plastic Belly Pan q {1} Molded Plastic Belly Pan Doubler q {1} Molded Plastic Pilot Head q {1} Molded Fiberglass Cowling q {1} Molded Clear Canopy

MAIN GEAR ASSEMBL Y

q {1} Aluminum Main Gear Bracket q {2} 50mm Diameter Wheels q {2} Molded Plastic Wheel Pants q {2} 3mm x 35mm Machine Screws q {3} 3mm x 15mm Machine Screws q {2} 2mm x 8mm Wood Screws q {7} 3mm Flat Washers q {2} 3mm Nylon Spacers q {4} 3mm Nylon Insert Nuts

TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBL Y

q {1} Tail Wheel Bracket w/Wire q {1} 25mm Diameter Tail Wheel q {1} 2mm Wheel Collar q {1} 3mm x 6mm Machine Screw q {2} 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws

ELEVAT OR CONTROL SYSTEM

q {1} 4mm x 300mm Nylon Pushrod q {1} 2mm x 62mm Threaded Wire w/90º Bend q {1} 2mm x 93mm Prebent Threaded Wire q {1} Nylon Clevis w/2mm I.D. Hole q {1} Nylon Snap Keeper q {1} Nylon Control Horn w/Backplate q {2} 2mm x 15mm Machine Screws

THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM

q {1} 4mm x 200mm Nylon Pushrod q {1} 1.5mm x 52mm Threaded Wire w/Z-Bend q {1} 1.5mm x 45mm Threaded Wire q {1} Nylon Clevis w/1.5mm I.D. Hole

RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEM

q {1} 4mm x 300mm Nylon Pushrod q {1} 2mm x 62mm Threaded Wire w/90º Bend q {1} 2mm x 100mm Threaded Straight Wire q {1} Nylon Clevis w/2mm I.D. Hole q {1} Nylon Snap Keeper q {1} Nylon Control Horn w/Backplate q {2} 2mm x 15mm Machine Screws

AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM

q {2} Nylon Adjustable Control Horns q {2} 2mm x 70mm Threaded Wire w/90º Bend q {2} Nylon Clevis w/2mm I.D. Hole q {2} Nylon Snap Keepers

MOTOR MOUNT ASSEMBLY

q {2} Nylon Motor Mount Beams q {8} 3mm x 20mm Machine Screws q {16}3mm Flat Washers q {8} 3mm Nylon Insert Nuts

FUEL T ANK

q {1} 190cc Molded Plastic Fuel Tank q {1} Rubber Stopper q {1} 70mm Silicon Fuel Line q {1} Weighted Clunk q {1} 70mm Aluminum Tube q {1} 40mm Aluminum Tube q {1} 30mm Aluminum Tube q {1} 15mm Diameter Rear Squash Plate q {1} 20mm Diameter Front Squash Plate q {1} 3mm x 20mm Machine Screw

MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS

q {1} Fuselage Servo Tray D-15 q {1} Dihedral Brace W-23 q {1} Wing Bolt Doubler W-25 q {3} Aileron Servo Mounting Plates W-24 q {2} Cowl Mounting Blocks D-30 q {2} 3mm x 25mm Machine Screws q {2} 3mm Flat Washers q {2} 3mm Blind Nuts q {3} 3mm x 6mm Wood Screws q {1} Molded Plastic Spinner q {2} 2mm x 12mm Wood Screws q {1} 3mm x 15mm Wood Screw

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

q {1}Hitec 4 or More Channel Radio w/4 Servos q {1}Dubro Foam Rubber # 513 q {1}Global Fuel Line # 115923 q {1}Dubro Fuel Filling Valve # 334 q {1}Dubro In-Line Fuel Filter # 340

TO FINISH PILOT

q Testors Contour Putty # 3511X q 320 Grit Sandpaper q Find & Medium Paint Brushes q Paint Thinner q Tan, White, Brown and Orange - Mix to make

skin color and lip color and hair color

q Flat Black - Goggles q Blue, Red, Flat Black - Hat and Body

TOOLS AND SUPPLIES NEEDED

q Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500 q Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510 q Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy # 887560 q Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy # 887565 q Wilhold Silicon Sealer # 00684 q Pacer RC256 Canopy Glue # PT-56 q Electric Drill q Assorted Drill Bits q Modeling Knife q Machine Oil or Vaseline

FOR 2-STROKE ENGINE

q {1}Magnum XL .25 - .28 Two Cycle q {1}Propeller T o Suit Engine q {1}Thunderbolt Glow Plug # 115493

OPTIONAL ITEMS

q {1}Ernst Charge Jack # 124 q {1} Cirrus On-Board Battery Indicator # 444762 q {1} Magnum 2” Aluminum Spinner # 237152

q Straight Edge Ruler q Dremel T ool w/Assorted Bits q Phillips Screwdriver q Builders Triangle q 220 Grit Sandpaper q Masking T ape q Paper T owels q Rubbing Alcohol q Wire Cutters

FIELD SUPPORT EQUIPMENT NEEDED

q Magnum 12V Electric Starter (# 361006) q Magnum 12V Fuel Pump (# 237377) q Magnum Locking Glow Clip (# 237440) q Global 12V Battery (# 110171 )

METRIC CONVERSION CHART

To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = MM

1/64” = .4mm 1/32” = .8mm 1/16” = 1.6mm 3/32” = 2.4mm 1/8” = 3.2mm 5/32” = 4.0mm

3/16” = 4.8mm 1/4” = 6.4mm 3/8” = 9.5mm 1/2” = 12.7mm 5/8” = 15.9mm 3/4” = 19.0mm

q Global 12V Charger (# 110270 ) q Magnum Power Panel (# 237390) q Global Field Buddy Flight Box (# 233072) q Magnum 4-Way Wrench (# 237420)

1” = 25.4mm 2” = 50.8mm 3” = 76.2mm 6” = 152.4mm 12” = 304.8mm 18” = 457.2mm

21” = 533.4mm 24” = 609.6mm 30” = 762.0mm 36” = 914.4mm

If you should find a part missing or have questions about assembly, please call or write to the address below:

Customer Service Center

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley, CA. 92728

Phone: (714) 963-0329

Fax: (714) 964-6236

E-Mail: globalhobby@earthlink.net

ÄSUGGESTIONÃ To avoid scratching your new airplane, do not unwrap the pieces until they are needed for assembly . Cover your workbench with an old towel or brown paper , both to protect the aircraft and to protect the table. Keep a couple of jars or bowls handy to hold the small parts after you open the bags.

ÄNOTEÃ Please trial fit all the parts. Make sure you have the correct parts and that they fit and are aligned properly before gluing! This will assure proper assembly . Since the Extra 300 is hand made from natural materials, every airplane is unique and minor adjustments may have to be made. However, you should find the fit superior and assembly simple.

WING ASSEMBLY

PARTS REQUIRED

q {2} Wing Halves w/Ailerons, Hinges & Torque Rods q {1} Dihedral Brace W-23

INSTALL THE DIHEDRAL BRACE

q 1) Look at the surface of each root rib on both wing halves. Notice how the excess covering material overlaps onto them. Using a modeling knife, carefully cut away the covering from both of the root ribs. Leave about 1/16” of covering overlapping so it does not pull away.

It is important that the covering be removed from

the root ribs. This will ensure an adequate woodto-wood glue joint and prevent wing failure during flight.

q 2) Using a ruler and a pen, locate and mark the centerline of the wing dihedral brace W-23. Draw a vertical line at this location on each side. See photo

# 1 below.

Photo # 1

Dihedral

Brace W-23

Draw Centerline

remove the brace and lightly sand the edges and tips until the proper fit is obtained. See photo # 2 below.

Photo # 2

Dihedral

Brace

Root

Rib

The dihedral brace is the same shape on both the top and the bottom. It can be installed in

either direction.

q 4) T est fit both of the wing halves together with the dihedral brace temporarily installed. Do not glue it in at this time! The wing halves should fit together tight with little or no gaps in the center section joint. If the center section joint is not tight, remove the wing halves and lightly sand the edges and tips of the dihedral brace. Test fit the wing halves together with the dihedral brace installed again. Repeat until you are satisfied with the fit of the wing halves.

q 5) When satisfied with the fit of the wing halves, remove the wing halves and the dihedral brace.

q 3) Test fit the dihedral brace into the plywood box in each wing half. The brace should slide into each wing half up to the centerline. If it does not,

JOINING THE WING HALVES

q 6) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy . Working with only one wing half for now, apply a thin layer of epoxy inside the plywood dihedral brace box and to only half of the dihedral

brace. Make sure to cover the top and bottom as well as the sides, and use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.

q 7) Slide the dihedral brace into the plywood box up to the centerline. Remove any excess epoxy before it dries using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to cure before proceeding.

q 8) Once the epoxy has cured, trial fit both wing halves together to double check that the wing halves still fit correctly.

q 9) Mix a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the exposed half of the dihedral brace, the inside of the plywood box in the second wing half and the entire surface of both root ribs. Make sure to use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.

q 10) Slide the two wing halves together and carefully align them at the leading and trailing edges. Wipe away any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Use masking tape to hold the two wing halves in place until the epoxy cures. See

photo # 3 below.

Photo # 3

Masking

Tape

the forward bulkhead in the fuselage. Push the wing as far forward as possible. The center of the leading edge should fit tight up against the bulkhead.

q 2) Using a ruler and a pen, measure and place a mark on the centerline of the bottom of the fuselage at the rear of the wing saddle. Also measure and place a mark at the centerline of the wing at the trailing edge.

q 3) With the wing in the wing saddle, align the two centerline marks and hold the wing securely in place using a couple of pieces of masking tape. See

photo # 4 below.

Photo # 4

Fuselage

Centerline

Wing

Centerline

q 4) Remove the ailerons from the wing. To double check that the wing is square to the fuselage, use a ruler and measure from each wing tip to the rear edge of the fuselage. Both measurements should be equal. See figure # 1 below.

q 11) When the epoxy has fully cured, double check the center section joint. If any gaps are present, mix a small amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy and carefully fill any remaining gaps. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.

WING MOUNTING

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Fuselage q {1} Wing Bolt Doubler W-25 q {2} 3mm x 25mm Machine Screws q {2} 3mm Flat Washers q {2} 3mm Blind Nuts

ALIGNING THE WING

q 1) Place the wing into the wing saddle making sure that the two preinstalled dowels in the leading edge of the wing fully engage the predrilled holes in

Figure # 1

INSTALLING THE BLIND NUTS

q 5) When satisfied with the alignment of the wing to the fuselage, hold the wing firmly in place and use a 1/8” drill bit and drill two holes through the wing and on through the plywood wing hold down block inside the fuselage. The two holes should be located 1” out from the centerline of the wing and 1/2” forward of the trailing edge.

q 6) Remove the wing from the wing saddle. Drill out only the holes in the plywood wing hold down block using a 5/32” drill bit.

Drilling out only these holes will allow easier

installation of the blind nuts in the next step.

q 7) Install the two 3mm blind nuts from underneath the plywood wing hold down block. The blind nuts can be installed using pliers. See photo # 5 below.

INSTALLING THE WING

q 13) Place the wing back into the wing saddle. Secure the wing in place using the two 3mm x 25mm machine screws and two 3mm flat washers.

BELLY PAN INSTALLATION

Photo # 5

Insert Blind

Nuts From

Bottom

INSTALLING THE WING BOLT DOUBLER

q 8) Place the wing back into the wing saddle, aligning the centerline marks. While holding the wing firmly in place, set the wing bolt doubler in place. The rear edge of the doubler should be 1/8” forward of the trailing edge of the wing and the sides of the doubler should be centered over the centerline of the wing. See photo # 6 below.

Photo # 6

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Molded Plastic Belly Pan q {1} Molded Plastic Belly Pan Doubler

INSTALLING THE BELLY PAN DOUBLER

q 1) Using a very sharp modeling knife, or lexan canopy scissors, cut out the belly pan and the belly pan doubler along their molded scribe lines. See

photo # 7 below.

Photo # 7

Belly Pan

Doubler

q 2) After you have cut out the two parts, use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block and lightly sand the edges of each part. Be careful to keep the edges straight. Use only enough pressure to remove any inconsistencies.

Wing Bolt

Doubler

q 9) While holding the doubler in place, use a pen and draw around the doubler to outline it onto the wing surface.

q 10) Remove the doubler. Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the covering from just inside the outline.

q 11) Mix up a small amount of Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy and use it to glue the wing doubler to the wing. Allow the epoxy to fully cure.

q 12) Remove the wing and drill out the holes through the doubler using a 1/8” drill bit. Use the holes already drilled through the wing as a guide.

q 3) Using Kwik Bond Thick C/A, carefully glue the doubler in place at the rear of the belly pan. The rear edge of the doubler should be flush with the rear edge of the belly pan. Hold the part in place until the glue cures. See photo # 8 below.

Photo # 8

Make Flush

Do not use C/A accelerators to speed the drying time. Accelerators may deform the plas-

tic and/or discolor it.

Rear

Edge

Belly Pan

Doubler

ALIGNING THE BELLY PAN

q 4) With the wing securely attached to the fuselage, trial fit the belly pan to the bottom of the wing. The sides of the belly pan, at both the front and the rear, should be flush with the sides of the fuselage. The angles at the rear of the belly pan should also be flush with the angles of the fuselage bottom.

You might find that you will need to trim the

front edge of each lip on the belly pan where they meet the leading edge of the wing. This will allow the lip to fit flush with the wing surface without deforming the rest of the belly pan.

q 5) When satisfied with the fit, hold the belly pan in place on the wing using a couple of pieces of masking tape. See photo # 9 below.

Photo # 9

q 10) Using a pen, mark the locations on the bottom of the belly pan of the two wing hold down screws. The two holes will be located 1/2” in from the belly pan sides and 1-1/8” forward of the bottom rear edge of the fuselage.

q 11) Using a 3/8” drill bit, drill two holes through the belly pan to access the wing bolts. See

photo # 10 below.

Photo # 10

Drill

Holes

HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

INSTALLATION

q 6) With the belly pan held firmly in place and aligned properly , use a pen and outline onto the wing surface the outside edge of each of the two lips on the sides of the belly pan.

q 7) Remove the belly pan. Using the lines as a guide, use a modeling knife and remove about 1/4” of the covering from the inside edge of each line.

Removing the covering will allow a stronger

bond between the belly pan and the wing when the belly pan is glued in place.

INSTALLING THE BELLY PAN

q 8) Mix up a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the bottom portion of each of the two plastic lips on the belly pan. Carefully set the belly pan back in place on the wing and align it as you did previously . Hold the belly pan firmly in place using strips of masking tape.

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator & Hinges

ALIGNING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

q 1) Remove the elevator from the horizontal stabilizer and set it aside for now.

q 2) Using a ruler and a pen, locate and mark the centerline of the horizontal stabilizer, at the trailing edge, and place a mark. Use a triangle and extend this mark, from back to front, across the top and bottom of the stabilizer .

q 3) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the covering from both sides of the fuselage that covers the stabilizer slot precut in the rear of the fuselage.

See photo # 11 below.

Photo # 11

Remove

Covering

Stabilizer

Slot

q 9) Remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.

q 4) Slide the stabilizer into the slot. The stabilizer should be pushed firmly up against the front of the slot.

q 5) Attach the wing to the fuselage. Align the centerline mark on top of the stabilizer with the centerline of the fuselage at the rear. When that is aligned hold the stabilizer in that position using a T-pin and align the horizontal stabilizer with the wing. When viewed from the rear, the horizontal stabilizer should be level with the wing. If it is not level, use sandpaper and sand down the high side of the stabilizer mounting platform until the proper alignment is achieved. The tips of the stabilizer should also be equal distance from the tips of the wing. See figures

# 2 and # 3 below.

Figure # 2

Figure # 3

A = A1

A =A1

When cutting through the covering to remove

it, cut with only enough pressure to only cut through the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa structure may weaken it.

q 9) When you are sure that everything is aligned correctly, mix up a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the top and bottom of the stabilizer mounting area and to the stabilizer mounting platform on the fuselage. Slide the stabilizer in place and realign. Double check all of your measurements once more before the epoxy cures. Hold the stabilizer in place with T-pins or masking tape and remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.

HINGING THE ELEVATOR

q 10) The C/A hinges have already been glued into the elevator. Slide the elevator and it's hinges into their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of the horizontal stabilizer. Slide the elevator in until it is tight against the trailing edge of the stabilizer. The maximum hinge gap should be no more than 1/32”.

q 6) When you are satisfied with the alignment, hold the stabilizer in place with T- pins or masking tape, but do not glue at this time.

MOUNTING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

q 7) With the stabilizer held firmly in place, use a pen and draw lines where it and the fuselage sides meet. Do this on both the right and left sides and top and bottom of the stabilizer.

q 8) Remove the stabilizer. Using the lines you just drew as a guide, carefully remove the covering from between them using a modeling knife. See photo

# 12 below.

Photo # 12

q 11) When satisfied with the fit, remove the elevator. Using a modeling knife, carefully remove any excess covering material that may have overlapped onto the hinges. Do not cut through the hinges!

q 12) W ith the elevator tight against the stabilizer, rotate the elevator down about 45º. Apply six drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge. Allow the glue to cure for about ten minutes. Once cured, the elevator may be stiff and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move the elevator up and down about five to ten times to free it up.

VERTICAL STABILIZER

INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder & Hinges

ALIGNING THE VERTICAL STABILIZER

q 1) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the covering from over the stabilizer slot precut in the top rear of the fuselage.

Remove

Covering

q 2) Remove the rudder from the stabilizer . Slide the stabilizer into the slot in the top of the fuselage. The front edge of the stabilizer post should be tight against the rear edge of the fuselage. The sides of the post should also be flush with the fuselage sides.

q 3) While holding the vertical stabilizer firmly in place, use a pen and draw a line on each side of the vertical stabilizer where it meets the top of the fuselage.

q 4) Remove the stabilizer. Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from below the lines you drew. Also remove the covering from the bottom edge of the stabilizer, the front edge of the stabilizer post and the rear edge of the fuselage. See photo #

13 below.

Photo # 13

Remove

Covering

CONTROL SURFACE HINGING

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Wing w/Ailerons & Hinges q {1} Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder & Hinges q {1} Tail Wheel Assembly q {1} 25mm Diameter Tail Wheel q {1} 2mm Wheel Collar q {1} 3mm x 6mm Machine Screw q {2} 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws

HINGING THE AILERONS

q 1) The C/A hinges have already been glued into the two ailerons. W orking with one aileron at a time, slide the aileron and it's hinges into their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of the wing, making sure the torque rod is firmly seated in the precut hole in the leading edge of the aileron. Slide the aileron in until it is tight against the trailing edge of the wing. The maximum hinge gap should be no more than 1/32”.

When cutting through the covering to remove

it, cut with only enough pressure to only cut through the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa structure may weaken it.

q 5) Slide the vertical stabilizer back in place. Using a triangle, check to ensure that the vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the horizontal stabilizer. See

figure # 4 below .

Figure # 4

90º

Horizontal Stabilizer

MOUNTING THE VERTICAL STABILIZER

Vertical Stabilizer

q 6) When you are sure that everything is aligned correctly, mix up a generous amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy . Apply a thin layer to the mounting slot in the top of the fuselage and to the sides and bottom of the vertical stabilizer mounting area. Apply epoxy to the front edge of the stabilizer post and to the rear edge of the fuselage also. Set the stabilizer in place and realign. Double check all of your measurements once more before the epoxy cures. Hold the stabilizer in place with T-pins or masking tape and remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.

q 2) When satisfied with the fit, remove the aileron. Using a modeling knife, carefully remove any excess covering material that may have overlapped onto the hinges. Do not cut through the hinges!

q 3) Slide a small piece of waxed paper between the aileron torque rod and the trailing edge of the wing.

See photo # 14 below .

Photo # 14

Waxed Paper

Torque Rod

The waxed paper will prevent epoxy from gluing the torque rod to the trailing edge of the wing.

q 4) Mix up a small amount of Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer of epoxy to the aileron torque rod. Also, use a toothpick and pack epoxy into the predrilled hole in the aileron.

q 5) Slide the aileron and it's hinges into their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of the wing, making sure the torque rod is firmly seated in the predrilled hole in the leading edge of the aileron. With the aileron tight against the wing, rotate the aileron down about 45º. Apply six drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge. Allow the glue to

cure for about ten minutes. Once cured, the aileron may be stiff and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move the aileron up and down about five to ten times to free it up.

q 6) Repeat steps # 1 - # 5 for the second aileron.

INSTALL THE TAIL WHEEL WIRE

q 7) Using a ruler and a pen, measure up 1-1/4” from the bottom of the rudder, at the leading edge, and place a mark.

q 8) Using a 5/64” drill bit, drill a hole into the rudder at the mark made. Using a modeling knife, cut a groove from the hole, down to the bottom of the rudder. Make the groove deep enough for the tail wheel wire to set flush in. See figure # 5 below.

q 12) With the rudder tight against the stabilizer, rotate the rudder to one side about 45º. Apply six drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge. Allow the glue to cure for about ten minutes. Once cured, the rudder may be stiff and difficult to move. This is normal. Gently move the rudder back and forth about five to ten times to free it up.

MOUNTING THE TAIL WHEEL BRACKET

q 13) Align the tail wheel mounting bracket with the centerline of the fuselage. Use a pen and mark the two forward mounting locations on the fuselage.

q 14) Move the mounting bracket to the side. Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill two pilot holes through the bottom of the fuselage at the marks you just made.

Figure # 5

Drill Hole

Cut

Groove

q 9) Mix up a small amount of Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy. Apply the epoxy to only those parts of the tail wheel wire that will be glued to the rudder. Pack epoxy into the hole you drilled in the leading edge of the rudder also.

q 10) Insert the tail wheel wire into the rudder. Clean up any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. See photo # 15 below.

Photo # 15

q 15) Secure the mounting bracket in place using two 3mm x 12mm wood screws. See photo #

16 below.

Photo # 16

Wood Screws

Bracket

INSTALLING THE TAIL WHEEL

q 16) Install the 25mm diameter tail wheel onto the tail wheel wire. Secure the tail wheel in place using one 2mm wheel collar and one 3mm x 6mm machine screw. Slide the wheel collar on enough so it is up against the wheel, but not so tight that the wheel won't turn. The tail wheel should rotate without binding.

HINGING THE RUDDER

q 11) The C/A hinges have already been glued into the rudder. Slide the rudder and it's hinges into their precut hinge slots in the trailing edge of the vertical stabilizer. Slide the rudder in until it is tight against the trailing edge of the stabilizer. The maximum hinge gap should be no more than 1/32”.

Tail Wheel

Wire

MAIN GEAR INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

INSTALLING THE GEAR BRACKET

q 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the three predrilled gear mounting holes. Two holes are located 15/16” forward of the front bulkhead and 7/8” in from each side of the fuselage. One hole is located 1/2” forward of the front bulkhead and 1-13/16” in from the fuselage sides.

q 7) Slide one 3mm flat washer onto one 3mm x 35mm machine screw. Slide one 50mm diameter wheel onto the machine screw , up against the washer.

q 8) Slide one 3mm nylon spacer up against the wheel, then thread one 3mm nylon insert nut up against the nylon spacer .

q 2) Install the prebent aluminum gear bracket using the three 3mm x 15mm machine screws and three 3mm flat washers. Three 3mm blind nuts have been preinstalled inside the fuselage. Tighten the screws completely . See photo # 17 below.

Photo # 17

Gear

Bracket

INSTALLING THE WHEEL PANTS

Washer

Machine

Screw

q 3) Working with one wheel pant at a time, use a very sharp modeling knife and remove the plastic that covers the wheel opening on the bottom of the wheel pant.

q 4) Using a pen and a ruler, locate and mark the location of the axle hole on one side of the wheel pant. The hole should be located 1/4” up from the bottom of the wheel pant opening and centered in the middle of it.

q 5) Using a 1/8” drill bit, drill a hole through the wheel pant at the location you marked.

q 6) Using a modeling knife, cut a slot from the hole down to the wheel pant opening. See photo #

18 below.

Photo # 18

Drill Hole

Cut Slot

q 9) Tighten the nut against the nylon spacer as tight as it can be, but still allow the wheel to spin free on the axle. Apply a couple of drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A to the nut to prevent it from turning. See

photo # 19 below.

Photo # 19

Nylon Insert

Nut

Nylon

Spacer

Machine Screw

q 10) Slide one 3mm flat washer over the machine screw and up against the nylon insert nut. Carefully slip the wheel and axle assembly into the wheel pant. The machine screw should slip firmly into the slot in the wheel pant and the flat washer should be positioned inside the wheel pant.

q 11) Slide the machine screw through the predrilled 3mm hole in the aluminum gear bracket and secure in place using one 3mm nylon insert nut. Tighten the nylon insert nut completely while holding the inner nylon insert nut in place with pliers. Double check that the inner nut has not moved and that the wheel does not bind when rotated.

q 12) Repeat steps # 1 - # 12 for the second wheel pant assembly. Be sure to make one right and one

left wheel pant assembly.

ADJUSTING THE WHEEL PANTS

q 13) With both wheels and wheel pants installed on the gear bracket, set the airplane on it's wheels on a level surface. Adjust the wheel pants so that the bottom rear portion of the wheel pants are level with the ground. Double check that both wheel pants are level with each other .

Cut

Opening

q 14) When satisfied with the alignment, secure the wheel pants in place by installing one 2mm x 8mm wood screw through the predrilled hole in the gear

bracket and into the side of the wheel pant. Do this for both wheel pants. See photo # 20 below.

Photo # 20

Flat Washer

Nylon Insert

Nut

Wood Screw

ENGINE MOUNTING

ALIGNING THE MOTOR MOUNT

q 5) The engine is mounted at a 45º angle in relation to the firewall. The motor mount beams should be parallel with sides of the engine mounting box. Using a ruler and a pen, measure and draw a vertical centerline and a horizontal centerline on the engine mounting box. See photo # 22 below.

Photo # 22

Vertical

Centerline

PARTS REQUIRED

q {2} Nylon Motor Mount Beams q {8} 3mm x 20mm Machine Screws q {16}3mm Flat Washers q {8} 3mm Nylon Insert Nuts

MOUNTING ENGINE TO MOTOR MOUNT

q 1) Using a clamp or a vise, align the two motor mount beams and clamp them together. The beam halves are universal and the webbing should face the outside edges. See photo # 21 below.

Photo # 21

Align Even

q 2) Mark the locations of the four engine mounting holes on the beams using a pencil. For the engine to align properly with the cowling, it is important that the front edge of the engine's drive washer be 3-5/8” forward from the rear edge of the mounting beams.

Horizontal Centerline

Engine

Mounting

Box

q 6) With your engine still installed on the motor mount beams, use a ruler and measure the width between the predrilled mounting holes in the motor mount. This distance will vary depending on the brand and size of the engine you have chosen. See photo #

23 below.

Photo # 23

D = Distance

Between

Predrilled Motor

Mount Holes

q 7) Divide the measurement found in step # 6 in half. Measure this resulting distance and draw one vertical line to the right and one to the left of the vertical centerline.

q 3) When satisfied with the alignment of the engine, remove the beams from the clamp and drill 1/8” holes through the mounting beams at the four engine mounting hole locations.

q 4) Mount the engine to the mounting beams using the four 3mm x 20mm machine screws, eight 3mm flat washers and four 3mm lock nuts. Tighten the screws and nuts completely.

If using an engine equipped with a remote needle

valve we recommend mounting the needle valve to the engine prior to installing the engine on the motor mount beams.

q 8) On the two vertical lines you just drew, measure and place two marks 1/2” below and two marks 13/16” above the horizontal centerline (looking at the firewall). See photo # 24 below.

Photo # 24

q 9) Hold the motor mount assembly up to the firewall and double check that the four intersecting lines line up with the four predrilled holes in the motor mount.

MOUNTING THE ENGINE TO FIREWALL

q 10) Using a 1/8” drill bit, drill the four mounting holes through the firewall for the motor mount.

over the tubes at the front of the stopper and slide the 15mm diameter rear squash plate over the tubes at the rear of the stopper. Insert the 3mm x 20mm machine screw into the center hole in the front squash plate, then screw it through the stopper and into the rear squash plate. Do not completely tighten the screw at this time.

q 11) Mount the motor mount assembly to the firewall using the four 3mm x 20mm machine screws, eight 3mm flat washers and four 3mm nylon insert nuts. Tighten the screws and nuts completely. See

photo # 25 below.

Photo # 25

FUEL TANK

PARTS REQUIRED

ASSEMBLE THE FUEL TANK

q 1) The fuel tank assembly incudes 3 different length aluminum tubes. Discard the shortest of the three tubes. It will not be used.

The 40mm length tube is used for the fuel line pickup and the 70mm tube is used for

the vent/pressure line.

q 2) Using 220 grit sandpaper carefully smooth each end of the two tubes. This will prevent the fuel line from being cut.

q 4) Carefully bend the longer of the two tubes up at a 45º angle. This tube is the vent tube. When the stopper assembly is installed in the tank, the top of the vent tube should rest just below the top surface of the tank. It should not touch the top of the tank.

q 5) Slide the silicon fuel tubing, with the weighted pickup attached to one end, onto the fuel pickup tube. See photo # 26 below.

Photo # 26

Fuel Pickup

Tube

Front

Squash

Plate

Rubber

Stopper

Rear

Squash

Plate

Tubing

Vent Tube

Weighted

Pickup

Fuel

q 6) T est fit the stopper assembly into the tank. It may be necessary to remove some of the flashing around the tank opening using a modeling knife. If flashing is present, make sure none falls into the tank.

q 7) With the stopper assembly in place, the weighted pickup should rest about 3/8” away from the rear of the tank and move freely inside the tank.

q 8) When satisfied with the alignment of the stopper assembly tighten the 3mm x 20mm machine screw until the rubber stopper expands and seals the tank opening. Do not overtighten the assembly as this could cause the tank to split. See photo # 27 below.

Photo # 27

Top of

Tank

Vent

Tube

Fuel

Pickup

Tube

q 3) Push the two aluminum tubes through the rubber stopper until 1/2” protrudes from the front of the stopper. Slide the 20mm diameter front squash plate

FUEL TANK INSTALLATION

q 9) Slide the fuel tank into the fuel tank compartment in the front of the airplane. The top of the tank should face the top of the fuselage and rest just up against it and the stopper assembly should engage the predrilled hole in the firewall. The tank should be pushed as far forward as possible. This will prevent the wing from interfering with the back of the tank when the wing is mounted.

q 10) Secure the fuel tank in place using several pieces of foam rubber. Seal the gaps between the stopper asssembly and the firewall using silicon sealer. Be careful not to get any silicon sealer inside the aluminum tubes.

THROTTLE LINKAGE

SERVO INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Fuselage Servo Tray D-15 q {3} Aileron Servo Mounting Plates W-24

INSTALLING THE FUSELAGE SERVO TRAY

q 1) Remove the precovered hatch from the bottom of the fuselage, just behind the wing saddle. Trial fit the servo tray D-15 in position inside the fuselage. The tray should rest on top of the preinstalled balsa stringers glued to the fuselage sides. The front edge of the tray should be pushed firmly against the rear bulkhead. See photo # 29 below.

Photo # 29

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} 4mm x 200mm Nylon Pushrod q {1} 1.5mm x 52mm Threaded Wire w/Z-Bend

INSTALLING THE THROTTLE LINKAGE

q 1) Thread the 1.5mm x 52mm threaded wire into one end of the 4mm x 200mm nylon pushrod. Thread the wire about 5/16” into the pushrod.

q 2) Using a modeling knife, cut off the excess throttle pushrod housing inside the fuselage. Leave about 1/4” extending beyond the front bulkhead.

q 3) Slide the plain end of the nylon pushrod wire through the preinstalled pushrod housing in the firewall. Remove the throttle arm from the carburetor and attach the Z-bend in the wire to the outer hole in the arm.

q 4) Reattach the throttle arm to the carburetor and use a pair of pliers to make small bends in the wire, if necessary , so the pushrod does not bind when the carburetor is moved from the idle to the full throttle position. See photo # 28 below.

Servo

Tray

q 2) When satisfied with the fit, remove the tray and mix up a generous amount of Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy and glue the tray in place.

INSTALLING THE FUSELAGE SERVOS

q 3) Install the rubber grommets and brass collets provided with your radio system onto four servos. T est fit two of the servos into the two precut servo holes in the fuselage servo tray D-15. These will be the elevator and rudder servos.

Because the size of servos differ , you may need to adjust the size of the precut openings.

q 4) Install the elevator and rudder servos using the wood screws provided with your radio system. Drill 1/16” pilot holes through the tray before installing the screws. This will help prevent the wood from splitting. Install the servos with the output shafts facing the front of the airplane. See photo # 30 below.

Photo # 28

Nylon

Pushrod

Photo # 30

Wire

q 5) Test fit the throttle servo in the preinstalled servo tray behind the forward bulkhead. The servo should be mounted with the output shaft towards the right side of the airplane.

q 10) Hold the two plates in position and trace around them using a pen. Remove the plates and using a modeling knife, remove the covering from just inside the lines.

Because the size of servos differ , you may need to adjust the size of the precut opening.

q 6) Install the throttle servo using the wood screws provided with your radio system. Drill 1/16” pilot holes through the tray before installing the screws. This will help prevent the wood from splitting. See photo # 31 below.

Photo # 31

INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVO PLATES

q 7) T est fit the aileron servo into the prebuilt servo box in the bottom side of the wing. The output shaft should point towards the trailing edge of the wing.

Because the size of servos differ , you may need

to adjust the size of the box opening. You may also need to use a modeling knife and cut a groove in one end of the box to allow room for the servo wire to fit without kinking.

q 8) Remove the servo. Using Kwik Bond Thick C/A, laminate two of the aileron servo mounting plates W-24 together, making sure all four edges are flush.

q 11) Mix a small amount of Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy and glue the plates in place. Allow the epoxy to cure completely .

INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVO

q 12) Install the aileron servo using the wood screws provided with your radio system. Drill 1/16” pilot holes through the plates before installing the screws. This will help prevent the wood from splitting. See photo # 33 below.

Photo # 33

Front

THROTTLE CONNECTION

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} 1.5mm x 45mm Threaded Wire q {1} Nylon Clevis w/1.5mm I.D. Hole

INSTALLING THE THROTTLE CLEVIS

q 1) With the servos plugged into the receiver , turn on the radio system. Check to ensure that the throttle servo output shaft is moving in the correct direction. It should move clockwise when you advance the throttle stick.

q 9) Position the servo mounting plates onto the wing. The single plate goes at the front of the servo opening and the laminated plate goes at the rear of the opening. Both plates should be centered from side to side and the inside edges should be even with the servo opening. See photo # 32 below.

Photo # 32

Front

W-24

W-24 (x2)

q 2) Position the throttle stick and the throttle trim at their lowest positions. Thread the 1.5mm x 45mm thread wire into the nylon throttle pushrod that was installed previously . Thread the wire in about 5/16”.

q 3) While holding the wire with pliers, to prevent it from turning, thread the nylon clevis onto the end of the wire. Thread the clevis on about 5/16”.

q 4) Manually push the carburetor barrel fully closed. Locate a servo arm and remove all but one of the arms. Angle the servo arm back about 30º from center and attach it to the servo. The arm should face the right side of the airplane. With the carburetor barrel fully closed, snap the clevis into the outer

hole in the servo arm. Y ou may need to make a slight bend in the pushrod wire to allow it to align level with the servo arm. See photo # 34 below.

Photo # 34

q 3) Mount the control horn to the rudder by inserting the 2mm x 15mm machine screws through the control horn mounting base, through the rudder, and into the backplate. Tighten the screws, but do not overtighten them. Y ou do not want to crush the wood.

Nylon

Clevis

Servo

Arm

Pushrod

Wire

Nylon

Pushrod

q 5) Test the movement of the throttle pushrod. Full forward stick and full forward trim should result in the carburetor barrel opening completely . Full back stick and full forward trim should result in the approximate idle setting. Full back stick and full down trim should result in the carburetor barrel closing fully.

q 6) When you are satisfied with the movement of the pushrod, install the servo arm retaining screw.

RUDDER PUSHROD

PARTS REQUIRED

INSTALLING THE RUDDER PUSHROD

q 4) Using a modeling knife, cut the 300mm nylon pushrod to a length of 9-1/4”. Thread the 2mm x 100mm threaded wire into one end of the nylon pushrod. For safety , thread the wire in no less than 5/16”.

q 5) Thread one nylon clevis onto the opposite end of the 2mm x 100mm threaded wire. It should be threaded no less than 5/16” onto the wire also.

q 6) Using a modeling knife remove the covering from over the rudder pushrod exit slot. Looking from the back of the airplane, the slot is located on the left side of the fuselage, 3-1/8” forward of the rudder hinge line and 1-1/4” below the horizontal stabilizer.

q 7) Insert the plain end of the nylon pushrod into the pushrod housing from the back. Snap the clevis onto the rudder control horn. Move the rudder back and forth to ensure there is no binding. See photo #

35 below.

Photo # 35

INSTALLING THE RUDDER CONTROL HORN

q 1) The centerline of the rudder control horn is located on the left side of the rudder (looking from behind) 9/16” up from the bottom of the rudder. Position the control horn so the clevis attachment holes are directly in-line with the hinge line. The control horn should also be parallel with the hinge line. See

figure # 6 below.

Figure # 6

Control Horn

Screw

Backplate

q 2) When satisfied with the alignment, use a 5/64” drill bit, and the control horn as a guide, and drill the two mounting holes through the rudder.

Pushrod

Wire

Clevis

Control

Horn

q 8) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the rudder in neutral.

q 9) Locate a servo arm, and using wire cutters, remove all but one of the arms. Install the 90º bend in the 2mm x 62mm wire into the third hole out from center. Remove the excess servo arm using wire cutters. Secure the wire in place using one nylon snap keeper.

q 10) Thread the wire into the pushrod. You can thread the wire in further, or back it out, until the servo arm aligns with the output shaft of the servo.

q 11) With the rudder and rudder servo in neutral, install the servo arm onto the servo. The arm should be positioned perpendicular to the servo and face the middle of the fuselage. See photo # 36 below.

Photo # 36

Snap Keeper

Pushrod

Wire

into the backplate. Tighten the screws, but do not overtighten them. Y ou do not want to crush the wood.

INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR PUSHROD

q 4) Using a modeling knife, cut the 300mm nylon pushrod to a length of 8-3/4”. Thread the 2mm x 93mm prebent threaded wire into one end of the nylon pushrod. Thread the wire in no less than 1/2”.

If you look closely at the prebent threaded wire

you will notice that before and after the bend one side of the wire is longer than the other. The longer side should thread into the nylon pushrod.

q 12) Move the servo arm back and forth to test for free movement. The pushrod should not bind in any way. When satisfied with the movement, install the servo arm retaining screw .

ELEVATOR PUSHROD

PARTS REQUIRED

INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR CONTROL HORN

q 1) The centerline of the elevator control horn is located on the bottom right side of the elevator (looking from behind) 7/8” out from the fuselage side, at the elevator hinge line. Position the control horn so the clevis attachment holes are directly in-line with the hinge line. The control horn should also be parallel with the hinge line. See figure # 7 below.

q 5) Thread one nylon clevis onto the opposite end of the 2mm x 93mm prebent threaded wire. It should be threaded no less than 5/16” onto the wire.

q 6) Using a modeling knife remove the covering from over the elevator pushrod exit slot. Looking from the back of the airplane, the slot is located on the right side of the fuselage, 3-1/8” forward of the rudder hinge line and 9/16” below the horizontal stabilizer .

q 7) Insert the plain end of the nylon pushrod into the pushrod housing from the back. Snap the clevis onto the elevator control horn. Move the elevator up and down to ensure there is no binding. See photo

# 37 below.

Photo # 37

Pushrod

Wire

Figure # 7

Backplate

q 2) When satisfied with the alignment, use a 5/64” drill bit, and the control horn as a guide, and drill the two mounting holes through the elevator .

q 3) Mount the control horn to the elevator by inserting the 2mm x 15mm machine screws through the control horn mounting base, through the elevator and

Control Horn

Screw

Clevis

Control Horn

q 8) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold the elevator in neutral.

q 9) Locate a servo arm, and using wire cutters, remove all but one of the arms. Install the 90º bend in the 2mm x 62mm wire into the second hole out from center. Remove the excess portion of the arm using wire cutters. Secure the wire in place using one nylon snap keeper.

q 10) Thread the wire into the pushrod. You can thread the wire in further, or back it out, until the servo arm aligns with the output shaft of the servo.

q 11) With the elevator and elevator servo in neutral, install the servo arm onto the servo. The arm should be positioned perpendicular to the servo and face the middle of the fuselage. See photo # 38 below.

Photo # 38

Pushrod

Wire

INSTALLING THE AILERON LINKAGE

q 1) Thread one nylon adjustable control horn onto each aileron torque rod. Thread them on until they are 5/8” above the top surface of the wing. See

figure # 8 below.

Figure # 8

Control Horn

5/8”

Torque Rod

Snap

Keeper

q 12) Move the servo arm back and forth to test for free movement. The pushrod should not bind in any way. When satisfied with the movement, install the servo arm retaining screw .

SERVO HATCH

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Servo Hatch q {1} 3mm x 15mm Wood Screw

INSTALLING THE SERVO HATCH

q 1) Set the servo hatch in place on the bottom of the fuselage. The preinstalled dowel should fully engage the predrilled hole in the rear bulkhead.

q 2) Using a ruler and a pen locate and mark the location of the hatch hold down screw. The hole should be located directly in the centerline of the hatch, 5/16” forward of the rear edge of the hatch.

q 3) With the hatch held firmly in place, drill a 5/64” pilot hole through the hatch and down through the plywood hold down block in the fuselage.

q 2) Thread one nylon clevis at least 5/16” onto each of the two 2mm x 70mm threaded rods with 90º bends.

q 3) With the aileron servo centered, install one dual-arm servo arm onto the servo. The arm should be installed so it is parallel with the trailing edge of the wing.

q 4) Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the ailerons and the trailing edge of the wing, to hold the two ailerons in neutral.

q 5) Snap the clevises onto the adjustable control horns. With the servo arm and ailerons centered, push the 90º bends down through the third hole out in each side of the servo arm. Adjust the length of the wires by turning the nylon clevises in or out until the correct length is achieved. Hold the wires in place using two nylon snap keepers. See photo # 39 below.

Photo # 39

Snap

Keeper

Pushrod

Wire

q 4) Remove the hatch. Using a 1/8” drill bit, drill out the pilot hole through the hatch only. Reinstall the hatch and secure it in place using the 3mm x 15mm wood screw . Do not overtighten the screw.

AILERON LINKAGE

PARTS REQUIRED

q {2} Nylon Adjustable Control Horns q {2} 2mm x 70mm Threaded Wire w/90º Bend q {2} Nylon Clevis w/2mm I.D. Hole q {2} Nylon Snap Keepers

Clevis

Control

Horn

q 6) Move the servo arm back and forth to check for free movement. The linkage should not bind in any way. When satisfied with the movement, install the servo arm retaining screw.

COWL INSTALLATION

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Molded Fiberglass Cowling q {2} Cowl Mounting Blocks D-30 q {3} 3mm x 6mm Wood Screws

INSTALLING THE COWL

q 1) Remove the high speed needle valve and muffler from the engine. Use masking tape to cover the carburetor, muffler and glow plug openings to prevent dust from getting into the engine.

q 2) Using a Dremel T ool, carefully open the three air inlets in the front of the cowl. Trim away a small amount at a time so you don't remove too much material. See photo # 40 below.

Photo # 40

Remove

q 6) While holding the blocks firmly in position, use a pen and trace around each block . Remove the blocks and use a modeling knife to remove the covering from just inside the lines.

q 7) Using Kwik Bond Thick C/A, glue the blocks in position. Allow the glue to cure completely.

q 8) Slide the cowl onto the fuselage. The rear edge of the cowl should line up flush with the mark you made previously on top of the fuselage. You will need to remove a portion of the cowl for engine head clearance. Use a Dremel Tool with a sanding drum for this purpose. Work carefully, removing a small amount of material at time. Double check your work frequently so you don't remove too much material.

q 9) With the cowl on the fuselage, install the spinner backplate and secure it in place. Center the cowl at the rear. The sides of the cowl, at the rear, should be equal distance away from the sides of the fuselage. When you are satisfied that the rear of the cowl is centered, apply a couple of pieces of masking tape to hold it in position.

q 3) Using a ruler and a pen, measure back from the front of the firewall, at the top of the fuselage, 1-3/4” and place a mark.

Do not measure from the front of the engine mounting box.

q 4) Using a ruler and a pen, measure back 1-1/4” from the front of the firewall, on the bottom of the fuselage, and place two marks, to locate the two cowl mounting blocks D-30.

q 5) Set the blocks in place. The angle on the end of each block should be flush with the side of the fuselage. The front edge of the blocks should be even with the marks you made. See photo # 41 below.

Photo # 41

Mounting Blocks D-30

q 10) With the rear of the cowl held firmly in position, align the front of the cowl with the backplate. The radius on the front of the cowl should be even with the radius of the backplate. There should also be about a 1/16” gap between the front of the cowl and the backplate.

q 11) The cowl is held in place using three 3mm x 6mm wood screws. One screw is threaded into the firewall at the top center of the cowl and one screw is threaded into each of the two blocks at the bottom sides of the cowl.

q 12) Using a pencil, mark the locations of the three mounting screw positions on the cowl. While holding the cowl firmly in position, drill 1/16” pilot holes through the cowl and into the firewall and mounting blocks.

q 13) Remove the spinner backplate and cowl. Using a 1/8” drill bit, open the holes in the cowl only .

Opening the holes will allow the screws to pass

through without cracking or splitting the cowl.

q 14) Apply a couple of drops of Kwik Bond Thin C/A into each of the three cowl mounting holes. This will harden the wood and keep the wood screws from coming loose during flight.

q 15) Slide the cowl back onto the fuselage and secure it in place using the three 3mm x 6mm wood screws. See photo # 42 below.

Photo # 42

Wood

Screws

q 16) Locate the areas of the cowl that need to be removed for access to the high and low speed needle valves and muffler assembly .

q 17) Remove the cowl and make these cutouts using a Dremel Tool with a cutting disc and sanding drum attachment. Holes for the needle valves can be cut using a drill bit. We highly suggest the use of a Dubro Fuel Filler Valve to fuel the airplane. This should be mounted to the cowl at this time also.

PILOT

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Molded Plastic Pilot Head

PILOT ASSEMBLY

q 1) Using a modeling knife or Lexan Canopy Scissors, trim off the rounded edges on the pilot head halves. Use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block and sand the edges smooth, flat and straight.

Pay careful attention to keeping the edges straight. This will make joining the halves much

easier.

q 2) Using scissors, cut out small tabs about 1/8” wide and 1/4” long from the excess plastic that was trimmed off in the previous steps. Bend each of the tabs at the middle into a shallow "V" shape.

q 3) Using thin C/A glue the tabs into only one half of the pilot head at several locations along the edges. See photo # 43 below.

Photo # 43

Pilot

Plastic

Tabs

Head

Because of the diameter of the cowl, it may be

necessary to use a needle valve extension for the high speed needle valve. Make this out of sufficient length 1.5mm wire and install it into the end of the needle valve. Secure the wire in place by tightening the set screw in the side of the needle valve.

q 18) Install the muffler and connect the fuel and pressure lines to the fuel tank, carburetor, muf fler and fuel filler valve.

q 19) Install the propeller and spinner assembly. The spinner cone is held in place using two 2mm x 12mm wood screws.

The propeller should not touch any part of the

spinner cone. If it does, use a sharp modeling knife and carefully trim away the spinner cone where the propeller comes in contact with it.

q 4) After the glue has completely cured, trial fit the two halves together. Make any adjustments necessary to get each half to fit as close as possible. When satisfied with the fit, glue the halves together using Kwik Bond Thin C/A. W ork one tab at a time, holding the halves tightly together and applying one drop of glue until the parts are completely glued together.

q 5) After the glue has completely cured, use 220 grit sandpaper and lightly sand the seams. If any gaps are present they can be filled using Testors Contour Putty. See photo # 44 below.

Photo # 44

Fill Seam

q 6) After the filler has dried, sand it smooth and repeat as necessary until any gaps are completely filled. Paint the pilot head, pilot bust and cockpit to suit your tastes.

PILOT INSTALLATION

q 7) Roughen the bottom of the pilot head and the top of the bust using 220 grit sandpaper. Using Kwik Bond 5 Minute Epoxy , glue the pilot head to the bust. Allow the epoxy to fully cure. See photo # 45 below.

Photo # 45

Pilot Head

Pilot

Bust

FINAL ASSEMBLY

INSTALLING THE RECEIVER AND BATTERY

q 1) Plug the four servo leads and the switch lead into the receiver. Plug the battery pack lead into the switch also.

q 2) Wrap the receiver and battery pack in foam rubber to protect them from vibration. Position the battery pack in the fuel tank compartment and the receiver between the fuel tank and the throttle servo. Use extra foam pieces to hold them in position.

When balancing the airplane you may need to

move the battery or receiver forward or aft to achieve proper balance. In our test airplane, using a Magnum XL .25 two stroke engine, the battery and receiver were mounted as per step # 2.

CANOPY

PARTS REQUIRED

q {1} Molded Clear Canopy

INSTALLING THE CANOPY

q 1) Using a modeling knife or Lexan Canopy Scissors, cut out the canopy along the molded scribe lines.

q 2) Trial fit the canopy. The canopy edges fit flush with the molded recess in the cockpit deck. Make any adjustments necessary to achieve a good fit using 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block.

q 3) When satisfied with the fit, glue the canopy in place using RC256 Canopy Glue. Hold the canopy securely in place using masking tape until the adhesive completely cures. See photo # 46 below.

Photo # 46

Cockpit

Deck

Canopy

q 3) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill a hole through the side of the fuselage for the antenna to exit. Route the antenna out of the fuselage and secure it to the vertical stabilizer using a rubber band. See figure # 9 below .

Figure # 9

Modified

Servo Arm

Antenna

INSTALLING THE SWITCH

Cut

To Vertical

Fin

Rubber

Band

q 4) The switch should be mounted on the fuselage side at the middle of the servo compartment. Use the faceplate of the switch itself to locate and mark the switch cutout and mounting holes.

q 5) Cut out the switch hole using a modeling knife. Use a 5/64” drill bit and drill out the two mounting holes.

q 6) Secure the switch in place using the two machine screws provided with the radio system.

q 7) Mount the optional Cirrus On-Board Battery Indicator and the optional Ernst charge jack to the fuselage side. Plug the battery indicator into an empty slot in the receiver.

BALANCING

q 1) It is critical that your airplane be balanced correctly . Improper balance will cause your plane to lose control and crash. The center of gravity is lo-

cated 3-1/8” back from the leading edge of the wing, at the fuselage sides. This location is recom-

mended for initial test flying and trimming. There is a 1/4” margin forward and aft, but it is not recommended that the center of gravity be located any further back than 3-3/8”. Balance the Extra 300 upside

down with the fuel tank empty.

q 6) If one side of the wing falls, that side is heavier than the opposite. Add small amounts of lead weight to the bottom side of the lighter wing half. Follow this procedure until the wing stays level when you lift the airplane.

CONTROL THROWS

q 1) We highly recommend setting up the Extra 300 using the control throws listed below. We have listed control throws for both initial test flying/sport flying and aerobatic flying.

q 2) Mount the wing to the fuselage. Using a couple of pieces of masking tape, place them on the top side of the wing 3-1/8” back from the leading edge, at the fuselage sides.

q 3) Turn the airplane upside down. Place your fingers on the masking tape and carefully lift the plane.

q 4) If the nose of the plane falls, the plane is nose heavy. To correct this first move the battery pack further back in the fuselage. If this is not possible or does not correct it, stick small amounts of weight on the fuselage under the horizontal stabilizer. If the tail of the plane falls, the plane is tail heavy . To correct this, move the battery and receiver forward or if this is not possible, stick weight onto the firewall. When balanced correctly , the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift it up with your fingers.

Once you have flown and trimmed the Extra

300, the balance point can be moved forward or aft 1/4” to change the flight performance. Moving the balance point back will cause the airplane to be more responsive, but less stable. Moving the balance point forward will cause the airplane to be more stable, but less responsive. Do not fly the Extra 300 be-

yond the recommended balance range or an uncontrollable crash could result!

LATERAL BALANCE

After you have balanced the Extra 300 on the

C.G. you must laterally balance it. Doing this will help the airplane track better.

q 5) Turn the airplane upside down. Attach one loop of heavy string to the engine crankshaft and one to the tail wheel wire. With the wings level, carefully lift the airplane by the string. This may require two people to make it easier.

q 2) Turn on the radio system and with the trim tabs on the transmitter in neutral, center the control surfaces by making adjustments to the clevises. The servo arms should be centered also.

q 3) When the elevator, rudder and aileron control surfaces are centered, use a ruler and check the amount of the control throw in each surface. The

control throws should be measured at the widest point of each surface!

INITIAL FLYING/SPORT FLYING

Ailerons: 1/4” up 1/4” down Elevator: 5/16” up 5/16” down Rudder: 3/4” right 3/4” left

AEROBATIC FLYING

Ailerons: 5/16” up 5/16” down Elevator: 5/8” up 5/8” down Rudder: 1-1/4” right 1-1/4” left

Do not use the aerobatic settings for initial test flying or sport flying.

q 4) By moving the position of the clevis at the control horn toward the outermost hole, you will decrease the amount of throw of that control surface. Moving the clevis toward the control surface will increase the amount of throw.

FLIGHT PREPARATION

q 1) Check the operation and direction of the elevator, rudder, ailerons and throttle.

q A) Plug in your radio system per the

manufacturer's instructions and turn everything on.

q B) Check the elevator first. Pull back on the elevator stick. The elevator should go up. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.

q C) Check the rudder . Looking from behind the airplane, move the rudder stick to the right. The rudder should move to the right. The tail wheel should move to the right as well. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.

q D) Check the throttle. Moving the throttle stick forward should open the carburetor barrel. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.

PREFLIGHT CHECK

q 1) Completely charge your transmitter and receiver batteries before your first day of flying.

q 2) Check every bolt and every glue joint in the Extra 300 to ensure everything is tight and well bonded. This should include all of the control surface hinges as well.

q 3) Double check the balance of the airplane. Do this with the fuel tank empty .

q E) From behind the airplane, look at the aileron on the right wing. Move the aileron stick to the right. The aileron should move up and the other aileron should move down. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.

q 2) Check Control Surface Throw.

q A) The Rudder should move 3/4” left and

3/4” right from center. If it moves too far, move the pushrod clevis to a hole in the rudder horn away from the rudder. Do the opposite if there is not enough throw.

q B) The elevator should move 5/16” up and 5/16” down from center. If it moves too far, move the pushrod clevis to a hole in the elevator horn away from the elevator. Do the opposite if there is not enough throw .

q C) The ailerons should move 1/4” up and 1/4” down from center. To adjust the amount of aileron throw , first move the pushrods on the servo arm. Move the pushrods toward the center of the servo for less movement. Move the pushrods farther away from the center of the servo for more movement. If enough movement cannot be achieved in this manner, thread the adjustable torque rod horns farther down the torque rods, toward the wing. It is important that both ailerons move the same amount, both up and down.

q D) Once the control throws and movements are set, tubing must be added to the clevises to ensure they do not release in the air. Cut a piece of fuel line into 1/4” pieces and slip one piece over each clevis.

q 4) Check the control surfaces. All should move in the correct direction and not bind.

q 5) If your radio transmitter is equipped with dual rate switches double check that they are on the low rate setting for your first few flights.

q 6) Check to ensure the control surfaces are moving the proper amount for both low and high rate settings.

q 7) Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage.

q 8) Properly balance the propeller. An out of balance propeller will cause excessive vibration which could lead to engine and/or airframe failure.

FLYING

The Extra 300 is designed for those pilots who are experienced in flying sport models. It is in no way a trainer. If you do not feel comfortable that you are able to test fly the airplane don't hesitate to ask someone for some help getting it tested and trimmed out. Typically, aerobatic airplanes such as the Extra 300, require some different flying techniques that you might not be familiar with. It is very important to let the airplane get up to flying speed before lifting off. Pulling the plane off the ground too fast will cause the airplane to stall and crash. You should allow the plane to roll out until the tail is completely off the ground and flying. Allow the airplane to roll out about 50 feet more and gently pull it off the ground and into a shallow climb out.

In the air, the plane flies like any other sport aero-

batic plane. Loops, rolls, low passes and most all

other maneuvers are all possible. Because of the

sometimes excessive control throws used for aero-

batics you must be aware of high speed stalling. This

is when the airplane is at full power and too much up

elevator is input at once. It causes the airplane to

snap. T o prevent this, make sure the elevator is set up

to our recommended test flying and sport flying set-

tings. When set up to aerobatic settings, be gentle on

the elevator.

When it is time to land always bring the airplane in

with a small amount of power. It is not a good habit

to just chop the throttle and dive the airplane to the

ground. Just like the real airplanes, gradually reduce

power along with altitude and speed. When you are

about 2-3 feet off the ground, reduce power to idle

and gently let the airplane settle onto the runway. Be

careful not to over control.

Happy Landings!

NOTES

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TRIM CHART

After you have test flown and done the initial trim changes to the aircraft, use the Trim Chart below to begin trimming your airplane. Following and adhering to this chart will result in the ability to diagnose trim problems and correct those problems using the simple adjustments shown below. Making these observations and related corrections will result in a truer, straighter and better flying airplane.

TRIM FEATURE MANEUVER OBSERVATION CORRECTION

Control Centering Fly general circles and Try for hands off straight Readjust linkages so Tx

random maneuvers. and level flight. trims are centered.

Control Throws Fly random maneuvers. A) Too sensitive, jerky If A) Change linkages to

controls. reduce throws. B) Not sufficient control. If B) Increase throws.

Engine Thrust Angle* From straight flight, A) Airplane continues If A) Thrust is correct.

chop throttle quickly. level path for short

distance. B) Airplane pitches nose up. If B) Decrease downthrust. C) Airplane pitches nose If C) Increase downthrust. down.

Center of Gravity From level flight, roll A) Continues in bank for If A) Balance is good. Longitudinal Balance to 45º bank and moderate distance.

neutralize controls. B) Nose pitches up. If B) Add nose weight.

C) Nose drops. If C) Remove nose weight.

Yaw** Into wind, do inside A) Wings level throughout. If A) Trim is correct.

loops using only elevator. B) Yaws to right in both If B) Add left rudder trim. Repeat tests doing inside and outside loops. outside loops from C) Yaws to left in both If C) Add right rudder trim. inverted entry. inside and outside loops.

D) Yaws to right on inside, If D) Add left aileron trim. and left on outside loops. E) Yaws left on inside, and If E) Add right aileron trim. right on outside loops.

Lateral Balance Into wind, do tight A) Wings are level and If A) Trim is correct.

inside loops. plane falls to either side.

B) Falls off to left in loops. If B) Add weight to right Worsens as loops tighten. wing tip. C) Falls off to right in loops. If C) Add weight to left Worsens as loops tighten. wing tip.

Aileron Rigging With wings level, pull A) Climb continues along If A) Trim is correct.

to vertical climb and same path. neutralize controls. B) Nose tends to go to If B) Raise both ailerons

inside loop. very slightly. C) Nose tends to go to If C) Lower both ailerons outside loop. very slightly.

*Engine thrust angle and C.G. interact. Check both. **Yaw and lateral balance produce similar symptoms. Note that the fin may be crooked. Right and left references are from the rear of the plane, as if you were in the cockpit.

PRPR

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1) Kit: Extra 300 ARF .25-.36 (# 123672)

2) Where did you learn about this kit?

q Magazine Ads q Friend q Hobby Shop q Other q Internet

3) What influenced you the most to buy this kit?

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4) Did you have any trouble understanding the written instructions? If yes, please explain. q Yes q No

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5) Did you have any trouble understanding any of the photographs. If yes, please explain. q Yes q No

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6) Were any of the kit parts:

q Damaged q Wrong Size q Missing q Wrong Shape

If you checked any of the boxes above, did you contact our Customer Service Department to re solve the problem? q Yes q No

7) Was any of the assembly difficult for you? If yes, please explain. q Yes q No

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8) What did you like most about this kit?

q Assembly Manual q Parts Fit q Hardware Supplied q Price q Other

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Model Tech Extra 300 Instructions Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual