Modeltech FUN FLY90S, 123752 Installation Manual

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INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINAL ASSEMBLY

The Modeltech Fun Fly 90S ARF is distributed

exclusively by Global Hobby Distributors

18480 Bandilier Circle, Fountain Valley, CA 92708

Distributors Version V1.0 February 2004

Kit Product Number 123752

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you are not comfortable flying large aerobatic sport aircraft, we strongly suggest returning the Fun Fly 90S ARF (brand new, in the box with all original packaging and your dated sales receipt) to the place of purchase.

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✦ The Modeltech Fun Fly 90S ARF is not intended for inexperienced pilots. It is in no way a trainer. If

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Specifications:

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Wing Span: 61 Inches

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Wing Area: 1100 Square Inches

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Length: 58 Inches

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Weight RTF: 6.75 - 7.25 Pounds

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Wing Loading: 14.25 - 15.25 Ounces Per Square Foot

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Functions: Ailerons, Elevator, Rudder & Throttle

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Engine Required: .60 - .91 Small Block 2-Stroke

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Radio Required: 4Ch or More w/5 Servos

The Fun Fly 90S ARF Requires 4 High-Torque Servos for the Control Surfaces and 1 Standard Servo for the Throttle

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Safety Warning ........................................................................... 2

Introduction ................................................................................. 3

Section 1: Our Recommendations ............................................ 4

Section 2: Tools and Supplies Required .................................. 5

Section 3: Kit Contents ............................................................. 5

Section 4: Metric Conversion Chart .......................................... 6

Section 5: Replacement Parts .................................................. 7

Section 6: A Note About Covering ............................................ 7

Section 7: Wing Assembly ........................................................ 8

Section 8: Stabilizer Installation.............................................. 10

Section 9: Hinging the Control Surfaces ................................ 14

Section 10: Tail Wheel Installation .......................................... 15

Section 11: Main Landing Gear Installation ........................... 16

Section 12: Engine Installation ............................................... 18

Section 13: Fuel Tank Assembly & Installation ...................... 19

Section 14: Throttle Control System Installation .................... 21

Section 15: Elevator Control System Installation ................... 23

Section 16: Rudder Control System Installation .................... 25

Section 17: Aileron Control System Installation ..................... 28

Section 18: Final Assembly..................................................... 30

Section 19: Balancing the Fun Fly 90S ARF .......................... 31

Section 20: Lateral Balancing the Fun Fly 90S ARF 31

Section 21: Aircraft Setup Information .................................... 32

Section 22: Control Throws..................................................... 33

Section 23: Computer Radio Setup ........................................ 34

Section 24: Preflight Check & Safety ..................................... 35

Section 25: Flying the Fun Fly 90S ARF ................................ 36

Section 26: Fun Fly 90S Flight-Trimming Chart ..................... 37

Product Evaluation Sheet ........................................................ 39

SAFETY WARNING

This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only in open areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio control system and any other components purchased separately.

FOR YOUR INFORMATION

To make your modeling experience totally enjoyable, we recommend that you get experienced, knowledgeable help with assembly and during your first flights. Your local hobby shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose membership includes qualified instructors. If there is no hobby shop in your area, we recommend that you contact the AMA at the address below. They will be able to help you locate a flying field near you.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie IN 47302-9252

(800) 435-9262

www.modelaircraft.org

OUR GUARANTEE

Modeltech guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This does not cover any component parts damaged by use, misuse or modification. In no case shall Modeltech's liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.

In that Modeltech has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the final user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

INTRODUCTION

Thank you for purchasing the new Modeltech Fun Fly 90S ARF. Before completing the final assembly of your new airplane, please carefully read through this instruction manual in its entirety. Doing so will ensure your success the first time around!

MODELTECH FUN FLY 90S ARF FEATURES

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Pre-Built from High-Quality Balsa and Light Plywood

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Pre-Covered with Real Iron-On, Heat-Shrink Covering Material

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Lightweight Airframe and Over-Sized Control Surfaces for Exciting 3D Aerobatics

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Simple Design that's Easy to Assemble and Maintain

● Durable Aluminum Main Landing Gear

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Includes Most Hardware - Wheels, Fuel Tank, Pushrods, Engine Mount, Etc.

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Fast and Easy Assembly - Over 50 High-Resolution Digital Photos and Drawings to Guide You

This instruction manual is designed to guide you through the entire assembly process of your new airplane in the least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new airplane and also learn tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them before beginning assembly.

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Please read through each step before beginning assembly. You should find the layout very complete and straightforward. Our goal is to guide you through assembly without any of the headaches and hassles that you might expect.

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There are check boxes next to each procedure. After you complete a procedure, check off the box. This will help prevent you from losing your place.

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Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft cloth,

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Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put the

small parts in after you open the accessory bags.

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We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air, but take your time. This will ensure you build a straight, strong and great flying airplane.

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If you come across this symbol ☞, it means that this is an important point or an assembly hint.

both to protect the table and to protect the parts.

If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have any questions about assembly,

please contact us at the address below:

Global Services

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92708

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 Email: service@globalhobby.net

CHECK IT OUT! We urge you to come check out our website at http://globalservices.globalhobby.com. There you will find public

message boards frequented by other Modeltech product owners and the Modeltech support staff. This is a great place to learn about new Modeltech products, get help and suggestions for your current Modeltech products or just simply hang out and chat with people that share your same interests.

To enable us to better serve your needs, please include your email address with any correspondence you send to us. Your email address will be added to our Customer Service Database so you will automatically receive free updates and tech notices for your particular product. You will also receive repair status updates (if applicable) and other important information about your product as it becomes available.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS

Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell,

trade, or rent your personal information to others . Your privacy is important to us.

SECTION 1: OUR RECOMMENDATIONS

This section describes our recommendations to help you in deciding which types of accessories to purchase for your new Modeltech Fun Fly 90S ARF. Please read through this entire section very carefully. We have provided you with tips

and recommendations that, if followed, will result in a great flying airplane. Failure to follow our recommendations may result in a poor flying airplane.

What Engine Should I Use?

The Fun Fly 90S ARF flies very well using a strong .61 size two-stroke engine. The airplane is light enough that this size engine will provide enough power for most aerobatics and general sport flying. It is on the low end of the recommended displacement range though, so don't expect to be able to do much 3D flying. The engine is mounted upright , so your engine's stock muffler should work well, and since there is no cowling, engine tuning and maintenance is much easier.

For 3D flying and freestyle aerobatics, we suggest using a small-block .91 size two-stroke engine. The small-block .91 size two-stroke engine is lightweight and has a small footprint, so it will fit easily within the required engine mounting area and it won't require an after-market muffler. It is also very lightweight for the power it produces, resulting in an airplane that has an enormous power-to-weight ratio. 3D and freestyle aerobatics can be flown with power to spare.

What Radio System and Servos Should I Use?

For typical sport-flying and general aerobatics, a standard four channel radio system will be more than adequate. Since the ailerons use separate aileron servos, you will need to use a servo Y-harness to join them. The Fun Fly 90S ARF is a big airplane with large control surfaces, so using high-torque ball bearing servos is a must. We strongly recommend that the servos used on the control surfaces produce no less than 65 ounce/inches of torque each.

For 3D and freestyle aerobatics, a four or more channel computer radio with mixing capabilities will be required. Since there are two separate aileron servos used, they can be plugged separately into the receiver, allowing you the capability of flaperon or spoileron mixing, differential mixing and flaperon/spoileron to elevator mixing. Again, we strongly recommend using high-torque ball bearing servos with a minimum of 65 ounce/inches of torque each on all of the control surfaces.

What Else Do I Need?

The Fun Fly 90S ARF includes most of the hardware you'll need to finish the airplane. You will need to purchase separately a spinner, one Y-Harness (if using a standard 4-channel radio control system) and some basic building materials, such as adhesives, protective foam rubber for your radio equipment, and fuel tubing. We've provided a list below of the items we used on the airplane shown in this instruction manual.

Here's a List of What We Used to Finish Our Fun Fly 90S ARF:

QTY. 1 210806 Magnum XLS .91A Two-Stroke Engine

QTY. 1 237154 Magnum 2-1/2" Chrome Spinner

QTY. 1 609560 APC 14 x 6 Composite Propeller

QTY. 4 759394 Hitec HS-605BB High-Torque Servos

QTY. 1 444104 Cirrus CS-36 Standard Servo

QTY. 2 444713 Cirrus 12" Servo Extensions (optional)

QTY. 1 444728 Cirrus Servo Y-Harness (optional)

QTY. 1 115559 Thunderbolt # 3 Performance Glow Plug

QTY. 1 115923 Global XX Silicon Fuel Tubing

QTY. 1 868638 Dubro 1/4" Protective Foam Rubber

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control systems. These items are also available with connectors that are compatible with Futaba and Airtronics radio control systems. The part number listed for the Cirrus servo is compatible with all name-brand radio control systems. This servo uses a universal connector. *Spinner includes 5/16 - 24 shaft adapter.

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✦ The part numbers listed for the Hitec servos and the Cirrus accessories are compatible with Hitec and JR radio

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SECTION 2: TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED

The tools and supplies listed below will be necessary to finish the assembly of your Fun Fly 90S ARF. We suggest having these items on hand before beginning assembly.

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A # 887500 ❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A # 887510 ❑ Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy # 887565 ❑ Kwik Bond C/A Debonder # 887545 ❑ Pacer Z-42 Threadlocker # 339162 ❑ # 1 & # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers ❑ 3mm Hex Wrench ❑ Adjustable Open-End Wrench ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife # 692801 ❑ Scissors ❑ Electric Drill

❑ Assorted Drill Bits ❑ Dubro T-Pins # 567685 ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand # 223977 ❑ Rotary Tool w/Cutting Disc ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Builder's Triangle ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks # 864204 ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups # 864205

SECTION 3: KIT CONTENTS

We have organized the parts as they come out of the box for easier identification during assembly. Before you begin assembly, group the parts as we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly and it will also help you become familiar with each part.

If you find any parts missing or damaged, please contact us at:

Global Services

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92708

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236 Email: service@globalhobby.net

AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES

❑ (1) Fuselage w/Servo Hatch Cover ❑ (1) Right Wing Panel w/Aileron ❑ (1) Left Wing Panel w/Aileron ❑ (1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator Halves ❑ (1) Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder

THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM

❑ (1) 17-1/2" Pushrod Wire w/Z-Bend ❑ (1) Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly

On the Web

http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

TAIL WHEEL ASSEMBLY

❑ (1) Nylon Tail Wheel Bracket ❑ (1) Nylon Tail Wheel Tiller Arm ❑ (1) Prebent Tail Wheel Wire ❑ (1) Tail Wheel ❑ (2) Wheel Collars w/M3 x 6mm Machine Screws ❑ (1) Nylon Spacer ❑ (1) M2.5 x 12mm Wood Screw ❑ (3) M3 x 12mm Wood Screws

Continued On Next Page

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KIT CONTENTS, CONTINUED....

MAIN LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY

❑ (1) Prebent Aluminum Main Gear Strut ❑ (2) Main Gear Wheels ❑ (3) M3 x 12mm Machine Screws ❑ (3) M3 Flat Washers ❑ (2) M4 x 35mm Smooth-Shank Machine Screws ❑ (6) M4 Flat Washers ❑ (4) M4 Lock Nuts

AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM

❑ (2) 3-7/8" Threaded Wires w/Z-Bend ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates (Small) ❑ (4) M2 x 20mm Machine Screws ❑ (2) Nylon Clevises ❑ (8) C/A Style Hinges

ELEVATOR CONTROL SYSTEM

❑ (1) 18-1/2" Threaded Wire w/90º Bend ❑ (1) 17-1/2" Threaded Wire w/Plain End ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates (Small) ❑ (4) M2 x 16mm Machine Screws ❑ (2) Nylon Clevises ❑ (1) Nylon 90º Snap Keeper ❑ (2) Steel Collars w/M3 x 6mm Machine Screws ❑ (6) C/A Style Hinges

MISCELLANEOUS WING PARTS

❑ (1) Hardwood Wing Joiner ❑ (1) Plywood Wing-Screw Doubler ❑ (2) M4 x 40mm Machine Screws ❑ (2) M4 Flat Washers

RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEM

❑ (2) 21-1/4" Threaded Wires w/90º Bend ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns (Large) ❑ (2) M2 x 16mm Machine Screws ❑ (2) M2 Hex Nuts ❑ (2) Nylon Clevises ❑ (2) Nylon 90º Snap Keepers ❑ (3) C/A Style Hinges

ENGINE MOUNT ASSEMBLY

❑ (2) Engine Mounting Beams ❑ (4) M4 x 16mm Socket-Cap Screws ❑ (4) M4 x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws ❑ (4) M4 Lock Nuts ❑ (12) M4 Flat Washers

FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY

❑ (1) 320cc Fuel Tank ❑ (1) Large Diameter Metal Plate ❑ (1) Small Diameter Metal Plate ❑ (1) Metal Neck-Reinforcement Ring ❑ (1) Rubber Stopper ❑ (1) Fuel Pick-Up "Clunk" ❑ (1) M3 x 20mm Machine Screw ❑ (1) Silicon Fuel Tubing ❑ (2) Aluminum Tubing

MISCELLANEOUS FUSELAGE PARTS

❑ (3) M2 x 10mm Flange-Head Wood Screws ❑ (1) Length of Clear Tubing

SECTION 4: METRIC CONVERSION CHART

To convert inches into millimeters: Inches x 25.4 = mm

To convert millimeters into inches: Millimeters / 25.4 = in

1/64" = .4mm

1/32" = .8mm

1/16" = 1.6mm

3/32" = 2.4mm

1/8" = 3.2mm

5/32" = 4.0mm

3/16" = 4.8mm

1/4" = 6.4mm

3/8" = 9.5mm

1/2" = 12.7mm

5/8" = 15.9mm

3/4" = 19.0mm

1" = 25.4mm

2" = 50.8mm

3" = 76.2mm

6" = 152.4mm

12" = 304.8mm

18" = 457.2mm

21" = 533.4mm

24" = 609.6mm

30" = 762.0mm

36" = 914.4mm

SECTION 5: REPLACEMENT PARTS

Global stocks a complete line of replacement parts for your Modeltech Fun Fly 90S ARF. Listed below are the replacement parts that are available along with their respective part numbers for easy ordering convenience. We suggest ordering directly from your local dealer. If your dealer does not stock Modeltech products, you can order directly from us at the address shown below:

Global Services

18480 Bandilier Circle

Fountain Valley CA 92708

Phone: (714) 963-0329 Fax: (714) 964-6236

http://globalservices.globalhobby.com

On the Web

Fun Fly 90S ARF - Complete ................................. 123752

Instruction Manual ................................................. 120023

Wing Set ................................................................ 120024

Fuselage Set .......................................................... 120025

Stabilizer Set .......................................................... 120026

Engine Mount Set w/Hardware .............................. 120027

Aluminum Landing Gear Strut ............................... 120028

Hardware Set ..........................................................120029

Decal Set ................................................................ 120030

Fuel Tank Assembly ................................................170823

Tail Wheel Assembly...............................................170825

SECTION 6: A NOTE ABOUT COVERING

The covering material used on the Modeltech Fun Fly 90S ARF is real iron-on, heat-shrink covering material, not cheap "shelf paper." Because of this, it is possible with heat and humidity changes that the covering on your airplane may wrinkle or sag. This trait is inherent in all types of heat-shrink material. To remove any wrinkles that might be visible you will need to purchase, or borrow from a fellow modeler, a heat iron. If you need to purchase one, the

Global Heat Sealing Iron # 360900 is recommended.

Follow this simple procedure to remove the wrinkles:

❑ Plug in and turn on the sealing iron to the medium-high temperature setting. Allow the sealing iron to heat up for

approximately 5 - 7 minutes.

❑ After the sealing iron has reached temperature, lightly apply the sealing iron to the wrinkled section of the covering.

Move the sealing iron slowly over the wrinkled section until the covering tightens and the wrinkles disappear.

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back down, it will return to its normal color.

If the color layer smears from any of the seams the temperature of the sealing iron is too hot. Turn the temperature dial

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down and wait about 5 minutes for the sealing iron to adjust to the lower temperature. You can remove any excess color streaks using a paper towel soaked with a small quantity of Acetone.

PRO TIP

sunlight) for any length of time. The extreme heat could cause the covering material to wrinkle or sag and possibly damage the fragile components of the radio system.

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✦ You will notice that the color of the covering will darken when it is heated. When the covering cools

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We do not suggest storing your airplane in an extremely hot environment (like the back of your car in direct

SECTION 7: WING ASSEMBLY

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Right Wing Panel w/Aileron ❑ (1) Left Wing Panel w/Aileron

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thick C/A ❑ Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy ❑ Kwik Bond C/A Debonder ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Electric Drill ❑ 11/64" Drill Bit ❑ Ruler

STEP 1: ALIGNING THE WING PANELS

❑ (1) Hardwood Wing Joiner ❑ (1) Plywood Wing-Screw Doubler

❑ Pencil ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ Remove the aileron and four hinges from each of the two

wing panels and set them aside for now.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the excess

covering material that overlaps onto the root ribs of each wing panel, leaving about 1/16" overlapped so it does not pull away.

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wing center-section joint that you remove as much covering material from the root ribs as possible. Do not omit this procedure or the wing center-section joint may fail during flight.

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✦ It's very important to the integrity of the

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❑ Use a ruler and a pencil to locate and draw a vertical

centerline on each side of the hardwood wing joiner.

❑ Test-fit the hardwood wing joiner into the wing joiner box in

each wing panel. It should slide easily into each wing panel up to the centerline you drew.

If the wing joiner does not fit properly, use 220 grit

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sandpaper with a sanding block to lightly sand the edges and tips of the wing joiner, until you are satisfied with the fit.

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❑ Carefully slide both wing panels together with the wing

joiner temporarily installed (without using glue).

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not fit tightly into the wing panels. It should actually be slightly loose. This will ensure that when you glue the wing joiner into place that epoxy can get into the joints between the wing joiner and the joiner box. If the wing joiner fits too tightly, the epoxy will just be pushed out of the joints when you slide the wing joiner into the wing, leaving no glue to secure it into place.

❑ While holding the two wing panels together firmly, make sure that both wing panels are lined up at both the leading and

the trailing edges, then look carefully at the center-section joint: the wing panels should fit together tightly with few or no gaps in the joint.

If the wing panels do not fit together properly, remove the wing joiner and use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding

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block to lightly sand the edges and tips of the wing joiner, until you are satisfied with the fit.

STEP 2: JOINING THE WING PANELS

❑ When satisfied with the fit, pull the wing panels apart and

remove the wing joiner.

❑ Apply a long strip of masking tape to the top and bottom

edges of the root rib on each wing panel.

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✦ When the wing joiner is installed, it should

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The masking tape will prevent excess epoxy from getting

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onto the wing panels when you join them.

❑ Mix a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy. Working with only one wing panel for now, apply a thin layer of epoxy inside

the wing joiner box and to only half of the wing joiner. Make sure to cover the top and bottom, as well as the sides, and use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.

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use 5 minute epoxy. It is not strong enough.

❑ Slide the wing joiner into the wing panel up to its centerline. Quickly remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and

rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up before proceeding.

❑ After the epoxy has set up, test-fit both wing panels together again to double-check that they still fit together properly.

Check the leading and trailing edges, too. It's important that they be even with each other.

❑ Mix a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy and apply a thin layer to the exposed half of the wing joiner, the inside of the

wing joiner box in the second wing panel, and the entire surface of BOTH root ribs. Make sure to use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.

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amount of epoxy to both root ribs and the wing joiner. Not using enough epoxy can result in wing failure during flight.

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✦ Use only 30 or 45 minute epoxy to install the wing joiner and to join the wing panels together. Do not

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✦ It is of the utmost importance to the integrity of the wing center-section joint that you apply a generous

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❑ Slide the two wing panels together and realign them. Quickly wipe away any excess epoxy using a paper towel and

rubbing alcohol, and use pieces of masking tape to hold the two wing panels aligned until the epoxy fully cures.

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STEP 3: CHECKING THE WING CENTER-SECTION JOINT

❑ Once the epoxy has fully cured, remove the masking tape and double-check the center-section joint. If any gaps are

present, mix a small quantity of 30 minute epoxy and carefully fill any remaining gaps. Quickly remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to thoroughly cure.

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✦ Do not omit this procedure. The wing panels should fit together tightly, but it's possible to have some

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small gaps that appear after the epoxy has cured. To make the wing center-section joint as strong as possible, it's important to fill any gaps, using 30 minute epoxy.

STEP 4: INSTALLING THE PLYWOOD WING-SCREW DOUBLER

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the top and bottom of the two predrilled

holes in the trailing edge of the wing. The holes are located 1/2" in front of the trailing edge and 5/8" out from the centerline.

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, draw a couple of centerline marks on the top of the wing-screw doubler to help you align it

with the wing center-section joint.

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✦ Before gluing the wing-screw doubler into

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place in the next procedure, make sure to cut away and remove the covering material from the wing where the wing-screw doubler will be glued into place. This will ensure a strong glue joint.

❑ Using thick C/A, glue the wing-screw doubler to the top of

the wing, making sure that the centerline marks you drew line up with the wing center-section joint, and that the back of the wing-screw doubler is even with the trailing edge of the wing.

❑ After the C/A completely cures, use an 11/64" diameter drill bit to drill open the holes in the wing through the wing-screw

doubler. Use the predrilled holes in the wing as a guide.

SECTION 8: STABILIZER INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Fuselage w/Servo Hatch Cover ❑ (1) Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevator Halves ❑ (1) Vertical Stabilizer w/Rudder

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond 30 Minute Epoxy ❑ # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Dubro T-Pins ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Builder's Triangle

STEP 1: ALIGNING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

❑ (2) M4 x 40mm Machine Screws ❑ (2) M4 Flat Washers

❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Sticks ❑ NHP Epoxy Mixing Cups

❑ Remove the two elevator halves and the six hinges from the horizontal stabilizer and set them aside for now.

Continued On Next Page

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❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering

material from over the horizontal and vertical stabilizer mounting slots in the back of the fuselage.

❑ Place the wing into the wing saddle, push it forward completely, then push the trailing edge down into place.

Two holes have been predrilled in the forward bulkhead to accept the wing hold-down dowels in the leading edge

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of the wing.

❑ Align the holes in the wing with the preinstalled blind nuts in

the wing mounting block inside the fuselage.

❑ Secure the wing into place using two M4 x 40mm machine

screws and two M4 flat washers.

Don't overtighten the screws. You don't want to crush

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the wing.

❑ Using a ruler and a pencil, carefully draw a vertical

centerline across the top of the horizontal stabilizer.

The top of the horizontal stabilizer is covered with white

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covering material.

PRO TIP

across the top of the stabilizer. This will ensure that the centerline is perpendicular to the trailing edge.

❑ Slide the stabilizer into the mounting slot and temporarily

align it. The stabilizer should be pushed forward completely and the centerline you drew should be centered between the vertical stabilizer mounting slot sides (when viewed from above) and the back of the fuselage.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, hold only the trailing

edge of the stabilizer in position using a T-Pin.

The front of the stabilizer should be able to pivot from side

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to side and the back should stay firmly in place and aligned.

Use a builder's triangle to extend the centerline

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❑ Use a ruler to carefully measure the distance between the

tips of the stabilizer and the tips of the wing. Pivot the front of the stabilizer until both of these measurements are equal. When both measurements are equal, the stabilizer is square to the wing.

B=B-1

❑ When you are satisfied that the stabilizer is square to the wing, use a pencil to draw a couple of marks on each side of

the front of the stabilizer where it and the fuselage sides meet, then use a couple of pieces of masking tape and/or T-pins to hold the stabilizer firmly in place and aligned.

❑ With the stabilizer held firmly in place, look from the front of

the airplane at both the wing and the stabilizer. When aligned properly, the stabilizer should be parallel to the wing.

If the stabilizer is out of alignment, remove it and use 220

☞

grit sandpaper with a sanding block to sand down the higher side of the stabilizer mounting slot, then reinstall the stabilizer and check the alignment once more. Repeat this procedure

C=C-1

until you are satisfied with the alignment.

STEP 2: MOUNTING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER

❑ When satisfied with the fit and alignment, make sure that

the stabilizer is secured firmly into place, and use a pencil to draw a line on each side of the stabilizer where it meets the fuselage sides. Do this on both the top and the bottom.

❑ Remove the stabilizer. Using a modeling knife, carefully

cut away and remove the covering material from between the lines you drew. Do this on both the top and the bottom.

✦✦

✦WARNING

✦✦

it, cut with only enough pressure to cut through only the covering itself. Cutting down into the balsa structure could weaken the stabilizer and cause it to fail during flight.

✦✦

✦ When cutting through the covering to remove

✦✦

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❑ Mix a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy and carefully apply a thin layer to the top and bottom of the gluing surfaces

of the stabilizer, and to the gluing surfaces of the stabilizer mounting slot.

❑ Slide the stabilizer back into place and realign it, double-checking all of your measurements once more before the

epoxy sets up. Remember to remove any excess epoxy before it sets up using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.

STEP 3: ALIGNING AND MOUNTING THE VERTICAL STABILIZER

❑ Remove the rudder and the three hinges from the vertical stabilizer and set them aside for now.

❑ Push the vertical stabilizer down into its mounting slot. To

align it properly, the rudder post should be tight against the back of the fuselage and centered between the fuselage sides, and the vertical stabilizer should be pushed down firmly.

❑ Using a builder's triangle, double-check that the vertical

stabilizer is perpendicular to the horizontal stabilizer.

❑ While holding the vertical stabilizer firmly in place, use a

pencil to draw a line on each side of the vertical stabilizer where it meets the top of the fuselage. Use a pencil to outline the rudder post on the back of the fuselage, too.

❑ Remove the vertical stabilizer and use a modeling knife to

carefully cut away and remove the covering material from below the lines you drew.

❑ Now, use a modeling knife to cut away and remove the

covering material from the base of the vertical stabilizer, the front of the rudder post and from within the outline of the rudder post you drew on the back of the fuselage.

❑ Mix and apply a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy to the gluing surfaces of both the vertical stabilizer and the

vertical stabilizer mounting slot in the top of the fuselage. Apply epoxy to the front of the rudder post and to the back of the fuselage, too.

❑ Push the vertical stabilizer down into place and realign it, double-checking all of your measurements once more before

the epoxy sets up. Quickly remove the excess epoxy and use pieces of masking tape to hold the vertical stabilizer in place until the epoxy has fully cured.

Don't forget to double-check that the vertical stabilizer is perpendicular to the horizontal stabilizer.

☞

SECTION 9: HINGING THE CONTROL SURFACES

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (17) C/A Style Hinges

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ Kwik Bond C/A Debonder ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

STEP 1: HINGING THE AILERONS

❑ Dubro T-Pins ❑ Paper Towels

✦✦

✦WARNING

✦✦

having a tight hinge gap and using plenty of thin C/A glue. Poor hinge installation can lead to control surface flutter which can result in a catastrophic failure of the airframe.

✦✦

✦ For flutter-free control surfaces, it is imperative that the hinges be glued in properly. This is achieved by

✦✦

❑ Push two T-pins through the center of four C/A style aileron

hinges, as shown.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

while you are hinging the aileron.

❑ Working with one aileron for now, slide one hinge into each

hinge slot, making sure that you push each hinge in up to the T-pins. Don't glue the hinges into place yet.

❑ Push the aileron and its hinges into the hinge slots in the

trailing edge of the wing. The aileron should be pushed firmly up against the trailing edge, so that there is a minimal hinge gap (no more than 1/32"), and the tip of the aileron should not rub against the wing tip. There should be about a 1/16" gap between the two.

✦✦

✦ The T-pins will keep the hinges centered

✦✦

❑ Remove the T-pins from the hinges, and while holding the

aileron tight against the wing, pivot the aileron down about 45º and apply 5-6 drops of thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge. Turn the wing over and repeat for the other side of the hinges.

Remove any C/A that may run down the hinge line using

☞

C/A Debonder.

❑ Allow the C/A to dry for about 15 minutes, then pivot the

aileron up and down several times to free up the hinges.

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PRO TIP

to pull out the hinges. The hinges should hold securely. If one or more hinges feels loose, apply more C/A to the hinge(s) and allow it to completely cure.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to hinge the second aileron to the wing, making sure to check the integrity of

the hinges after the C/A fully cures.

STEP 2: HINGING THE ELEVATOR HALVES & THE RUDDER

❑ Hinge the elevator halves and the rudder using the same techniques as hinging the ailerons. Each elevator half is

hinged using three hinges and the rudder is hinged using three hinges, too. When hinging the elevator halves and the rudder, there should be no more than a 1/16" gap between the counter-balances and the stabilizers. Remember, after allowing the C/A to fully cure, pull on the control surfaces to check the integrity of the hinges.

After the C/A has fully cured, gently grasp the aileron and wing and pull on the aileron like you are trying

SECTION 10: TAIL WHEEL INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Nylon Tail Wheel Bracket ❑ (1) Nylon Tail Wheel Tiller Arm ❑ (1) Prebent Tail Wheel Wire ❑ (1) Tail Wheel

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Electric Drill ❑ 5/64" Drill Bit ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand

STEP 1: ASSEMBLING THE TAIL WHEEL BRACKET

❑ Push one wheel collar into the molded recess in the nylon tiller arm. Carefully rotate the wheel collar until the threaded

hole in the wheel collar lines up with the molded hole in the side of the tiller arm.

❑ Partially thread one machine screw through the tiller arm and into the wheel collar.

❑ (2) Wheel Collars w/M3 x 6mm Machine Screws ❑ (1) Nylon Spacer ❑ (1) M2.5 x 12mm Wood Screw ❑ (3) M3 x 12mm Wood Screws

❑ Rotary Tool w/Cutting Disc ❑ Pencil ❑ Masking Tape

❑ Push the tail wheel wire up through the tail wheel bracket,

then slide the tiller arm over the wire and push it down against the tail wheel bracket, as shown.

❑ Using a rotary tool with a cutting disc, carefully cut the excess wire off flush with the nylon tiller arm.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

✦ Be careful not to accidentally cut down into the nylon tiller arm.

✦✦

❑ Rotate both the tail wheel wire and the tiller arm so that

they face the back of the tail wheel bracket. While holding everything in alignment, tighten the machine screw.

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 2: INSTALLING THE TAIL WHEEL BRACKET

❑ Set the tail wheel bracket into place on the bottom of the

fuselage. To align the bracket assembly, the pivot point of the tiller arm should be even with the rudder hinge line and the bracket should be centered on the bottom of the fuselage.

The clasp of the tiller arm should fit over the bottom edge

☞

of the rudder.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, hold the bracket assembly firmly in place and drill three 5/64" diameter pilot holes

through the fuselage for the bracket assembly mounting screws.

❑ Mount the tail wheel bracket assembly to the fuselage, using three M3 x 12mm wood screws.

❑ While holding the tiller arm firmly against the bottom of the

rudder, carefully drill a 5/64" diameter pilot hole through both sides of the nylon clasp and through the rudder.

❑ Thread the M2.5 x 12mm wood screw into one side of the

clasp, through the rudder and into the other side of the clasp.

Do not overtighten the screw or you might strip out the

☞

nylon clasp.

❑ Slide the nylon spacer onto the tail wheel wire, followed by the tail wheel. Use one wheel collar and machine screw to

hold the tail wheel in place.

❑ Loosen the machine screw in the side of the tiller arm. With the rudder centered, pivot the tail wheel wire until the tail

wheel is aligned with the bottom of the rudder. When satisfied with the alignment, tighten the machine screw firmly.

PRO TIP

wheel wire from coming loose and rotating during use.

Grinding a flat spot on the tail wheel wire, where the machine screw tightens down, will help prevent the tail

SECTION 11: MAIN LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) Prebent Aluminum Main Gear Strut ❑ (2) Main Gear Wheels ❑ (3) M3 x 12mm Machine Screws ❑ (3) M3 Flat Washers

❑ (2) M4 x 35mm Smooth-Shank Machine Screws ❑ (6) M4 Flat Washers ❑ (4) M4 Lock Nuts

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ # 1 & # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers ❑ Adjustable Open-End Wrench

❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand

Continued On Next Page

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STEP 1: INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR STRUT

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the three predrilled main gear strut

mounting holes in the bottom of the fuselage. Use the preinstalled blind nuts inside the fuselage as reference to locate the holes.

❑ Install the main gear strut to the bottom of the fuselage,

using three M3 x 12mm machine screws and three M3 flat washers.

Blind nuts have been preinstalled in the bottom of the

☞

main gear mounting block for the machine screws.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

won't come loose during flight.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR WHEELS

❑ Slide one main gear wheel onto one M4 x 35mm smooth-shank machine screw.

❑ Slide one M4 flat washer up against the wheel and thread

one M4 lock nut onto the machine screw. Thread the nut into place so that it is as tight as possible, but still allows the wheel to spin freely.

❑ When satisfied with the fit, apply a couple of drops of thin

C/A to the lock nut to secure it into place permanently.

Be careful not to get C/A on the axle portion of the screw

☞

or the wheel will be glued solid to the machine screw.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

secured into place.

✦✦

✦ Before proceeding, make sure to allow the C/A to fully cure. It's important that the lock nut be solidly

✦✦

✦ Tighten the machine screws firmly so they

✦✦

❑ After the C/A has fully cured, slide one M4 flat washer up against the lock nut.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to install the second wheel and axle assembly.

PRO TIP

difficult to taxi and keep the airplane rolling straight on the ground.

Double-check that both main gear wheels spin freely. If one or both wheels are binding, it will make it

❑ Slide the machine screw assembly through the predrilled

hole in the main gear strut and secure it into place using one M4 flat washer and one M4 lock nut. Tighten the lock nut firmly while holding the inner lock nut securely in place with a pair of needle nose pliers.

❑ Double-check that the inner lock nut has not moved and

that the wheel does not bind when turned.

SECTION 12: ENGINE INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (2) Engine Mounting Beams ❑ (4) M4 x 16mm Socket-Cap Screws ❑ (4) M4 x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Pacer Z-42 Threadlocker ❑ 3mm Hex Wrench ❑ Adjustable Open-End Wrench ❑ Electric Drill

STEP 1: INSTALLING THE ENGINE MOUNTING BEAMS

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

If the width of the engine you choose is not the same, you will have to modify the spacing of the beams. This can be done by removing the blind nuts and gluing pieces of hardwood dowel into the existing holes. You can then redrill the holes to fit your engine's width and reinstall the blind nuts.

✦✦

✦ When installed, the engine mounting beams are spaced to fit the Magnum XLS .91 two-stroke engine.

✦✦

❑ (4) M4 Lock Nuts ❑ (12) M4 Flat Washers

❑ 3/32" & 11/64" Drill Bits ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil

❑ Install the two engine mounting beams onto the firewall,

using four M4 x 16mm socket-cap screws and four M4 flat washers. Tighten the screws firmly to hold the beams securely in place.

Blind nuts have been preinstalled into the back of the

☞

firewall to thread the screws into. We suggest applying Threadlocker to the screws to secure them into place.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

STEP 2: ALIGNING AND INSTALLING THE ENGINE

❑ Slide the spinner backplate onto your engine and secure it

into place using your engine's prop washer and nut.

❑ Set the engine onto the engine mounting beams.

❑ Using a ruler, measure the distance from the firewall to the

back of the spinner backplate. Adjust the depth of the engine so that the measurement is 4-3/4".

❑ Using a pencil, carefully mark the locations of the engine mounting holes onto the mounting beams. ❑ Remove the engine and drill 3/32" diameter pilot holes through the engine mounting beams at the marks you drew.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

✦ Be careful that you drill the holes straight down and not at an angle.

✦✦

✦ The engine is mounted upright.

✦✦

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❑ Carefully enlarge the 3/32" diameter pilot holes using an 11/64" diameter drill bit.

❑ Install the engine using four M4 x 25mm socket-cap screws,

eight M4 flat washers and four M4 lock nuts.

Tighten the screws and nuts firmly to hold the engine

☞

securely into place.

SECTION 13: FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY & INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) 320cc Fuel Tank ❑ (1) Large Diameter Metal Plate ❑ (1) Small Diameter Metal Plate ❑ (1) Metal Neck-Reinforcement Ring ❑ (1) Rubber Stopper

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Scissors

STEP 1: ASSEMBLING THE RUBBER STOPPER

❑ Using 220 grit sandpaper, carefully smooth and deburr each end of the two aluminum tubes. This will prevent the fuel

tubing from being accidentally cut when it is installed later.

❑ (1) Fuel Pick-Up "Clunk" ❑ (1) M3 x 20mm Machine Screw ❑ (1) Silicon Fuel Tubing ❑ (2) Aluminum Tubing

❑ Ruler ❑ 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block

❑ Push the two aluminum tubes through the rubber stopper.

Slide the large diameter metal plate over the tubes at the front of the stopper and slide the small diameter metal plate over the tubes at the rear of the stopper.

❑ Using a ruler, measure the distance that the two aluminum

tubes protrude from the front of the stopper assembly. This distance should be 3/8". If it is not, adjust the tubes by pushing them forward or backward until you are satisfied with the alignment.

❑ Carefully bend the longer of the two aluminum tubes up at a 45º angle, being careful not to "kink" the tubing as you

bend it.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

should rest just inside the bubble in the top of the tank.

✦✦

✦ When the stopper assembly is installed in the fuel tank, the top of the vent tube (the tube you just bent)

✦✦

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❑ Secure one end of the silicon fuel tubing onto the end of the

fuel pick-up "clunk."

❑ Slide the silicon fuel tubing, with the fuel pick-up attached,

onto the end of the aluminum fuel pick-up tube (straight tube). While holding the aluminum tube in place, adjust the length of the silicon tubing until the fuel pick-up is 4-3/8" back from the rear of the stopper assembly.

❑ Push the M3 x 20mm machine screw through the stopper assembly, from the front, and partially thread it into the small

diameter metal backplate.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE RUBBER STOPPER ASSEMBLY

❑ Carefully push the metal neck-reinforcement ring over the

neck of the molded fuel tank opening.

❑ Carefully push the rubber stopper assembly into the fuel

tank opening and rotate the stopper assembly until the aluminum vent tube rests just inside the bubble in the top of the tank.

PRO TIP

the fuel tank assembly up to a bright light. This will illuminate the inside of the tank.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, tighten the machine screw until the rubber stopper expands and seals the fuel

tank opening.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

❑ With the rubber stopper assembly installed, double-check to make sure that the fuel pick-up can move freely inside the

fuel tank. Ideally, the fuel pick-up should be about 1/4" in front of the back of the fuel tank.

STEP 3: INSTALLING THE FUEL TANK

❑ Cut two pieces of silicon fuel tubing to a length of 8" and install them to the aluminum tubes at the front of the tank.

PRO TIP

connect them to the engine later on.

❑ Feed the ends of the fuel tubing through the predrilled hole in the firewall and slide the fuel tank into position, making

sure that the stopper assembly lines up with, and is pushed into, the predrilled hole in the firewall.

❑ To align the fuel tank properly, the fuel tank should be pushed forward as far as possible and the bottom of the fuel tank

should rest on the fuel tank support platform.

✦✦

✦ Don't overtighten the machine screw or you might strip the threads in the small metal plate.

✦✦

Mark the ends of the silicon tubing "vent" and "pick-up" so you don't confuse them when it comes time to

If you have trouble seeing the vent tube, hold

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

the fuselage. The top of the fuel tank has the molded vent bubble in it.

✦✦

✦ When you slide the fuel tank into position, make sure that the top of the fuel tank is toward the top of

✦✦

Continued On Next Page

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☛

☛☛

❑ To secure the fuel tank assembly into place, cut and install

several pieces of foam rubber between the bottom of the fuel tank and the top of the fuel tank support platform, and between the top and sides of the fuel tank and the top and sides of the front bulkhead.

Make sure that the foam rubber will not interfere with

☞

installation of your engine's throttle pushrod wire.

SECTION 14: THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) 17-1/2" Pushrod Wire w/Z-Bend

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers

STEP 1: INSTALLING THE THROTTLE SERVO

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your throttle servo, making sure to install the collets with the flanges

toward the bottom of the servo.

❑ (1) Adjustable Servo Connector Assembly

❑ Electric Drill ❑ 1/16" & 5/64" Drill Bits ❑ Ruler

❑ Install the throttle servo into the plywood servo tray, making

sure to first drill 1/16" diameter pilot holes for the mounting screws.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

the right side of the fuselage, as shown.

✦✦

✦ The servo output shaft should be toward

✦✦

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE THROTTLE PUSHROD & ADJUSTABLE CONNECTOR

❑ Remove the throttle arm from your engine and install the Z-Bend in the pushrod wire into the outermost hole in the

throttle arm.

You may need to enlarge the hole in your engine's throttle arm using a 5/64" diameter drill bit to accommodate the wire.

☞

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

in the firewall lines up closely with your engine's throttle arm. The hole is predrilled to line up with .90 size two-stroke engines. If you are using a different size and/or type of engine, you may need to redrill the hole in a different location. If you do, make sure not to drill through the fuel tank.

✦✦

✦ Before installing the throttle pushrod wire in the next procedure, double-check that the predrilled hole

✦✦

Continued On Next Page

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☛☛

❑ Slide the plain end of the throttle pushrod wire through the

predrilled hole in the firewall, then through the predrilled hole in the forward bulkhead.

❑ Reinstall the throttle arm onto your engine.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

may need to make a bend in the pushrod wire so that it lines up better with your engine's throttle arm.

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away all but one arm from a "4-point" servo horn.

❑ Enlarge the hole in the servo arm that is 9/16" out from the

center of the servo arm, using a 5/64" diameter drill bit.

❑ Install the adjustable servo connector into the enlarged hole.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

tighten the nut completely. You don't want the connector loose, but you do want it to be able to rotate without binding.

PRO TIP

before proceeding.

❑ Connect your radio system and plug the throttle servo into the receiver. Check to ensure that the throttle servo output

shaft is rotating in the correct direction. When the throttle control stick is moved forward, from the idle to the full throttle position, the servo output shaft should rotate in the proper direction to open your engine's carburetor barrel. If it doesn't, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter.

To prevent the connector nut from loosening during flight, apply a drop of thin C/A to it. Allow the C/A to dry

✦✦

✦ So that the pushrod wire doesn't bind, you

✦✦

✦ When threading on the connector nut, don't

✦✦

❑ Position the throttle control stick and the throttle trim lever on your transmitter to their lowest positions.

❑ Slide the adjustable servo connector/servo horn assembly over the plain end of the throttle pushrod wire.

❑ After making sure that the carburetor is in the fully closed

position, angle the servo horn about 45º from center and attach it to the servo output shaft. The servo connector should be facing the side of the fuselage, as shown.

❑ While holding the carburetor barrel fully closed, install

and tighten the set screw in the top of the adjustable servo connector.

❑ Use wire cutters to cut away and remove the excess pushrod wire.

❑ Install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw to hold the servo horn securely to the servo.

❑ Operate the throttle several times to ensure that the pushrod wire does not bind. It should operate smoothly.

SECTION 15: ELEVATOR CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (1) 18-1/2" Threaded Wire w/90º Bend ❑ (1) 17-1/2" Threaded Wire w/Plain End ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates (Small) ❑ (4) M2 x 16mm Machine Screws

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Electric Drill

STEP 1: INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR SERVO

❑ Carefully remove the servo hatch cover from the bottom of the fuselage.

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your elevator servo, making sure to install the collets with the

flanges toward the bottom of the servo.

❑ (2) Nylon Clevises ❑ (1) Nylon 90º Snap Keeper ❑ (2) Wheel Collars w/Set Screws

❑ 1/16" & 5/64" Drill Bits ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Masking Tape

❑ Install the elevator servo onto the hardwood mounting rails

in the back of the fuselage, as shown. Again, make sure to drill 1/16" diameter pilot holes for the mounting screws.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

offset to the right about 3/8" from center, so that the servo arm will line up with the elevator pushrod housings. The servo output shaft should be toward the front of the fuselage, as shown.

STEP 2: ASSEMBLING THE ELEVATOR PUSHROD

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away all but one arm from a large "4-point" servo horn.

❑ Enlarge the hole in the servo arm that is 9/16" out from the center of the servo arm, using a 5/64" diameter drill bit.

❑ Install the 90º bend in the 18-1/2" long threaded elevator

pushrod wire into the hole that you just enlarged, using the nylon snap keeper provided. When installing the snap keeper, make sure it "snaps" firmly into place over the pushrod wire.

The pushrod wire should be orientated on top of the

☞

servo arm, as shown.

✦✦

✦ The elevator servo should be installed

✦✦

Continued On Next Page

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☛☛

❑ Partially thread one machine screw into each of the two steel collars, then slide the steel collars onto the threaded

elevator pushrod wire and up against the nylon snap keeper.

❑ Make a shallow bend 1-1/2" from the plain end of the 17-1/2"

long pushrod wire, then slide the pushrod wire through the steel collars, as shown. The bend in the pushrod wire should be deep enough to separate the pushrod wires by 1/2".

❑ Adjust the pushrod wire so both threaded ends are even

with each other, then carefully tighten the machine screws in both steel collars.

When tightening the machine screws, make sure both

☞

pushrods stay flat and don't twist up.

STEP 3: INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR PUSHROD ASSEMBLY

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the elevator pushrod exit hole in each side

of the fuselage. The holes are located 5-3/4" in front of the back of the fuselage and 2-3/8" above the bottom of the fuselage.

❑ Connect your radio system and plug the elevator servo into the receiver. Center the servo by double-checking that the

elevator trim lever on your transmitter is centered.

❑ Carefully slide the threaded ends of the pushrod wires into

the preinstalled pushrod housings from inside the fuselage.

❑ Install the servo horn onto your servo, making sure that it's

centered and pointing toward the left side of the fuselage, as shown.

❑ Install the servo horn retaining screw to secure the servo

horn to the servo.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

double-check that the steel collars do not hit the inside edge of the plywood support bulkhead. If they do, or if they are very close to hitting, carefully trim that portion of the bulkhead away, so that there is no chance the steel collars will hit it. Failure to double-check this could result in the steel collars catching on the bulkhead during flight and jamming the elevator, resulting in a crash.

STEP 4: INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORNS & CLEVISES

✦✦

✦ After installing the pushrod assembly, move the pushrod assembly back and forth several times and

✦✦

❑ Position one nylon control horn onto the bottom of one

elevator half. When aligned properly, the centerline of the control horn should be 3/4" out from the side of the fuselage (at the hinge line) and the clevis attachment holes should be lined up over the hinge line. The base of the control horn should be angled slightly toward the fuselage side, too, so that it lines up better with the pushrod wire.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, mark and drill 5/64"

diameter pilot holes through the elevator half for the control horn mounting screws.

Continued On Next Page

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☛

☛☛

PRO TIP

and allow the C/A to fully cure. The C/A will harden the surrounding balsa, making the mounting area stronger.

❑ Install the control horn and backplate using two M2 x 16mm machine screws, being careful not to overtighten them.

❑ After installing the control horn, carefully cut off the top of the machine screws flush with the control horn backplate,

using a pair of wire cutters.

❑ Repeat the previous procedures to align and install the second nylon control horn assembly onto the other elevator half.

❑ Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between each elevator half and the stabilizer, to hold the elevator

halves centered.

Before installing the control horn in the next procedure, drip several drops of thin C/A into the pilot holes

❑ Thread the clevises onto the pushrod wires and snap them

into the outermost hole in the control horns.

Hold the pushrod wires with a pair of pliers to prevent them

☞

from turning while installing the clevises.

❑ With both elevator halves and the servo horn centered,

double-check that the set screws in the wheel collars are tight.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

screws from loosening during flight. Do not omit this procedure or failure of the elevator control system could result!

❑ Remove the masking tape from the elevator halves and double-check that the servo arm and the elevator halves

are still centered. If the elevator halves are not centered, adjust the clevises until they are. Move the elevator halves up and down several times to ensure that the linkage assembly does not bind.

✦✦

✦ After you tighten the set screws, apply a couple of drops of thin C/A to the threads. This will prevent the

✦✦

SECTION 16: RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (2) 21-1/4" Threaded Wires w/90º Bend ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns (Large) ❑ (2) M2 x 16mm Machine Screws ❑ (2) M2 Hex Nuts

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Adjustable Open-End Wrench ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Electric Drill

❑ (2) Nylon Clevises ❑ (2) Nylon 90º Snap Keepers ❑ (3) M2 x 10mm Flange-Head Wood Screws

❑ 1/16" & 5/64" Drill Bits ❑ Ernst Airplane Stand ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Masking Tape

STEP 1: INSTALLING THE RUDDER SERVO

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your rudder servo, making sure to install the collets with the flanges

toward the bottom of the servo.

Continued On Next Page

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☛

☛☛

❑ Install the rudder servo onto the hardwood mounting rails in

front of the elevator servo, as shown. Again, make sure to drill 1/16" diameter pilot holes for the mounting screws.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

that the servo arm will line up with the rudder pushrod housings. The servo output shaft should be toward the back of the fuselage, too.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE RUDDER PUSHROD ASSEMBLY

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove two arms from a large "4-point" servo horn.

❑ Enlarge the hole in each remaining servo arm that is 11/16" out from the center of the servo arm, using a 5/64" diameter

drill bit.

❑ Install the 90º bend in each 21-1/4" long threaded rudder

pushrod wire into the holes that you just enlarged, using the nylon snap keepers provided. When installing the snap keepers, make sure they "snap" firmly into place over the pushrod wires.

The pushrod wires should be orientated on top of the servo

☞

arms, as shown.

✦✦

✦ The rudder servo should be centered so

✦✦

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the rudder pushrod exit hole in each side of

the fuselage. The holes are located 3-1/2" in front of the back of the fuselage and 1" above the bottom of the fuselage.

❑ Connect your radio system and plug the rudder servo into the receiver. Double-check that the rudder trim lever on your

transmitter is centered.

❑ Carefully slide the threaded ends of the pushrod wires into

the preinstalled pushrod housings from inside the fuselage.

❑ Install the servo horn onto your servo, making sure that it's

centered, as shown.

❑ Install the servo horn retaining screw to secure the servo

horn to the servo.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

double-check that the servo arms do not hit the inside edge of the plywood support bulkhead. If they do, or if they are very close to hitting, carefully trim that portion of the bulkhead away, so that there is no chance the servo arms will hit it. Failure to double-check this could result in the servo arms jamming against the bulkhead during flight, resulting in a possible crash.

✦✦

✦ After installing the pushrod assembly, move the pushrod assembly back and forth several times and

✦✦

Continued On Next Page

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☛

☛☛

STEP 3: INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORNS & CLEVISES

❑ Position one nylon control horn (large) onto the side of the

rudder. When aligned properly, the centerline of the control horn should be even with the rudder pushrod wire and the clevis attachment holes should be lined up over the hinge line. The base of the control horn should be parallel to the rudder hinge line, too.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, mark and drill 5/64"

diameter pilot holes through the rudder for the control horn mounting screws.

PRO TIP

and allow the C/A to fully cure. The C/A will harden the surrounding balsa, making the mounting area stronger.

❑ Install one control horn onto each side of the rudder using two M2 x 16mm machine screws and two M2 hex nuts, being

careful not to overtighten them so you don't crush the rudder.

❑ After tightening the hex nuts, apply a drop of thin C/A to the threads of each hex nut to prevent them from coming loose

during flight.

❑ Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the rudder and the stabilizer, to hold the rudder centered.

STEP 4: INSTALLING THE SERVO HATCH COVER

Before installing the control horns in the next procedure, drip several drops of thin C/A into the pilot holes

❑ Thread the clevises onto the pushrod wires and snap them

into the fourth hole out from the base of the control horns.

Hold the pushrod wires with a pair of pliers to prevent them

☞

from turning while installing the clevises.

❑ Remove the masking tape from the rudder and double-check

that the servo arm and the rudder are still centered. If the rudder is not centered, adjust the clevises until it is. Move the rudder right and left several times to ensure that the linkage assembly does not bind.

❑ Set the servo hatch cover into place and align it with the bottom of the fuselage.

❑ Secure the servo hatch cover to the fuselage, using three M2 x 10mm flange-head wood screws.

❑ Using a drill with a 1/16" diameter drill bit, drill three pilot

holes through the hatch cover for the mounting screws. Position one hole 1/8" behind the front edge of the hatch cover, one hole 9-3/16" behind the front of the hatch cover and one hole 1/8" in front of the back edge of the hatch cover. Make sure all three holes are centered from side-to-side.

SECTION 17: AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS FROM THE KIT:

❑ (2) 3-7/8" Threaded Wires w/Z-Bend ❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns w/Backplates (Small)

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Kwik Bond Thin C/A ❑ # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver ❑ Wire Cutters ❑ Needle Nose Pliers ❑ Excel Modeling Knife

STEP 1: INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVOS

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away and remove the covering material from over the two precut aileron servo trays and

from over the precut aileron servo lead exit hole in the bottom of the wing. The precut aileron servo trays are located 9" out from the centerline of the wing and 5" in front of the aileron hinge lines. The precut aileron servo lead exit hole is located on the centerline of the wing, 5" in front of the trailing edge of the wing.

❑ (4) M2 x 20mm Machine Screws ❑ (2) Nylon Clevises

❑ Electric Drill ❑ 1/16" & 5/64" Drill Bits ❑ Ruler ❑ Pencil ❑ Masking Tape

❑ Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto both of

your aileron servos, making sure to install the collets with the flanges toward the bottom of the servos.

❑ Install each of the two aileron servos, making sure to first

pull the aileron servo leads through the wing and out the exit hole in the bottom of the wing. Again, remember to drill 1/16" diameter pilot holes for the mounting screws.

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

the trailing edge of the wing.

STEP 2: INSTALLING THE AILERON PUSHROD WIRES

❑ Using a modeling knife, cut away all but one arm from a large "4-point" servo horn.

❑ Enlarge the hole in the servo arm that is 9/16" out from the center of the servo arm, using a 5/64" diameter drill bit.

❑ Connect your radio system and plug the aileron servo into the receiver. Double-check that the aileron trim lever on your

transmitter is centered.

❑ Install the Z-Bend in one 3-7/8" long threaded aileron

pushrod wire into the hole that you just enlarged. When installing the pushrod wire, make sure that the long portion of the wire is oriented toward the top of the servo arm.

❑ Install the servo horn onto your servo, making sure that it's

centered and pointing toward the tip of the wing, as shown.

❑ Install the servo horn retaining screw to secure the servo

horn to the servo.

✦✦

✦ The servo output shafts should be toward

✦✦

Continued On Next Page

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☛

☛☛

STEP 3: INSTALLING THE CONTROL HORNS & CLEVISES

❑ Position one nylon control horn (small) onto the bottom of

one aileron. When aligned properly, the centerline of the control horn should be directly behind the aileron pushrod wire and the clevis attachment holes should be lined up over the hinge line. The base of the control horn should be parallel to the aileron hinge line, too.

❑ When satisfied with the alignment, mark and drill 5/64"

diameter pilot holes through the aileron for the control horn mounting screws.

PRO TIP

and allow the C/A to fully cure. The C/A will harden the surrounding balsa, making the mounting area stronger.

❑ Install the control horn and backplate using two M2 x 20mm machine screws, being careful not to overtighten them.

❑ After installing the control horn, carefully cut off the top of the machine screws flush with the control horn backplate,

using a pair of wire cutters.

❑ Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the aileron and the wing, to hold the aileron centered.

❑ Remove the masking tape from the aileron and double-check that the servo arm and the aileron are still centered. If the

aileron is not centered, adjust the clevis until it is. Move the aileron up and down several times to ensure that the linkage assembly does not bind.

Before installing the control horn in the next procedure, drip several drops of thin C/A into the pilot holes

❑ Thread the clevis onto the pushrod wire and snap it into the

outermost hole in the control horn.

Hold the pushrod wire with a pair of pliers to prevent it

☞

from turning while installing the clevis.

❑ Repeat the procedures in steps # 2 & # 3 to install the second aileron pushrod assembly on the other half of the wing.

PRO TIP

you will need to plug a Y-Harness into the two aileron servo leads at this time. This will allow both aileron servos to be plugged into the aileron channel in your receiver. The Y-Harness should be long enough so that you can easily plug it into the receiver when you install the wing.

If you will be flying your Fun Fly 90S ARF using a computer radio with mixing capabilities, you may want to plug each aileron servo lead into your receiver separately. Chances are your aileron servo leads will not be long enough to reach the receiver when you install the wing. In this case you will need to plug one 12" aileron extension lead into each aileron servo lead, so that you can easily plug the aileron servos into the receiver when you install the wing.

If you will by flying your Fun Fly 90S ARF using a non-computer radio system without mixing capabilities,

SECTION 18: FINAL ASSEMBLY

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Adjustable Open-End Wrench ❑ Excel Modeling Knife ❑ Scissors ❑ Electric Drill

STEP 1: INSTALLING YOUR ENGINE ACCESSORIES

❑ 5/64" Drill Bit ❑ Masking Tape ❑ Paper Towels ❑ Rubbing Alcohol

❑ Install your muffler onto your engine, then cut to length and

connect the fuel lines to the carburetor and muffler pressure tap. Make sure that the vent line goes to the pressure tap.

❑ Install your propeller and spinner assembly, making sure to

balance the propeller before installing it.

STEP 2: INSTALLING YOUR RECEIVER, AIRBORNE BATTERY & SWITCH

PRO TIP

How the airplane initially balances will determine where you need to mount the receiver and battery.

❑ Wrap the receiver and battery in foam rubber to protect them from vibration. Use masking tape or rubber bands to hold

the foam in place.

Do not wrap the foam rubber too tightly or the vibration dampening quality will be reduced.

☞

❑ After you've found the final location of the receiver and battery, mount them into the fuselage using your favorite

method. Strips of Velcro® work well or sandwich them in place using a couple of scraps of balsa wood glued between the fuselage sides.

We don't suggest permanently installing the receiver and battery until you have balanced the airplane.

❑ After installing the receiver, drill a 5/64" diameter hole

through the fuselage floor for the antenna to exit. Unwrap the receiver antenna and feed it out through the hole.

❑ Using a modeling knife, carefully make an antenna mount

out of an extra servo horn. Remove one of the arms and cut it into the shape shown.

❑ Use the modified servo arm and a rubber band to secure

the end of the antenna to the tail wheel wire.

❑ Mount the switch to the fuselage side (opposite the muffler) and connect the battery lead to the switch, and the switch

and servo leads to the receiver.

SECTION 19: BALANCING THE FUN FLY 90S ARF

YOU'LL NEED THE FOLLOWING TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:

❑ Ruler ❑ Masking Tape

✦✦

✦

✦✦

IMPORTANT

control and crash!

✦✦

✦

✦✦

It is critical that your airplane be balanced correctly. Improper balance will cause your airplane to lose

Center of Gravity Location:

4-3/4" - 6-1/2" back from the leading edge of the wing, measured at the fuselage sides.

✦✦

✦

✦✦

WARNING

the range (5-5/8"), then move it farther back as you become familiar with the flying characteristics of the airplane. It is not recommended that the C/G be located any farther back than 6-1/2".

Balance the Fun Fly 90S ARF with the fuel tank empty.

☞

❑ Install the wing onto the fuselage. Apply two short pieces of masking tape onto the top of the wing, 5-5/8" back from

the leading edge, measured at the fuselage sides.

❑ Turn the airplane upside down and place your fingers on the masking tape, and carefully lift the airplane. If the nose of

the airplane falls, the airplane is nose heavy. To correct this, move the battery pack and/or receiver back far enough to bring the airplane into balance. If the tail of the airplane falls, the airplane is tail heavy. To correct this, move the battery pack and/or receiver forward far enough to bring the airplane into balance. When balanced correctly, the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift it up with your fingers at the C/G location.

Once you have flown and become familiar with the flight characteristics of the airplane, the C/G can be moved fore or

☞

aft within the C/G range to change the flight performance. Moving the C/G back will cause the airplane to be more responsive, but less stable. Moving the C/G forward will cause the airplane to be more stable, but less responsive.

✦✦

✦

✦✦

This is the recommended C/G range. For test-flying we suggest you start with the C/G in the middle of

DO NOT FLY THE AIRPLANE BEYOND THE RECOMMENDED BALANCE RANGE OR AN

UNCONTROLLABLE CRASH COULD RESULT!

SECTION 20: LATERAL BALANCING THE FUN FLY 90S ARF

Lateral balancing will make the airplane easier to trim and will make it track straighter in the air. It is strongly

☞

recommended.

❑ Turn the airplane upside down and tie one length of string to the propeller shaft and one length of string to the tail

wheel wire.

❑ With someone helping you, carefully lift the airplane up by the two pieces of string. Watch how the wing reacts. If one

side of the wing drops, that side is heavier than the other. To correct this condition, stick a small piece of self-adhesive lead weight to the bottom of the lighter wing half (the one that doesn't drop). For best mechanical advantage, place the weight as close to the wing tip as possible, but make sure to apply the lead to a solid portion of the wing structure.

❑ Repeat the procedure a couple of more times to double-check your findings. When done properly the wing should stay

level when you lift the airplane.

SECTION 21: AIRCRAFT SETUP INFORMATION

Before adjusting the control throws and flying your new Fun Fly 90S ARF, there are some points about the airplane's setup that you should be aware of. If you're a veteran of high-performance airplanes, you've probably heard this information before but, if this is your first high-performance airplane, this information will be very important to you.

SEALING THE HINGE GAPS

Because of the very large control surfaces, it is imperative that the aileron and elevator hinge gaps be sealed. Failure to do this can lead to control surface flutter, which in turn can cause your airplane to crash. Sealing the hinge gaps will also provide crisper control response and the airplane will fly straighter and truer, making trimming much easier. Hinge gaps can be sealed using heat-shrink covering material or clear vinyl tape. To seal the hinge gaps using heat-shrink covering material, follow these steps:

❑ Cut a piece of covering material 1" wide and the same length as the hinge line.

❑ Fold the length of covering material in half lengthwise so that there is a sharp crease down the middle of the material.

The hinge gap sealing material should be applied to only the bottom of the hinged surfaces. It is not necessary to seal

☞

both the bottom and the top.

❑ Remove the protective backing from the covering material. With the control surface fully deflected in the "UP"

position, place the length of covering material over the hinge line, making sure that the crease is completely down in the hinge line.

❑ With the control surface fully deflected in the "UP" position, use a heat sealing iron to carefully adhere the covering

material to both the trailing edge of the flying surface and the leading edge bevel of the control surface. Use a modeling knife to trim the excess covering material flush with the surfaces.

❑ Pivot the control surface up and down several times to check for free movement.

It's not necessary to seal the hinge gap on the rudder, although you could if you wanted to.

☞

CONTROL SURFACE LINKAGES

If you don't maintain the proper mechanical advantage on the control surfaces, control surface flutter may result, which in turn can cause your airplane to lose control and crash. What mechanical advantage means in our case is the distance that the pushrod attachment points (pivot points) are from the servos and the control surfaces.

●

Keeping the pushrods as close to the center of the servo arms as possible will increase the servo's resolution. What this means is that when you move the control sticks, the servo arms will have to travel farther to achieve the desired control inputs. This makes the resolution higher, therefore causing the control surface deflection to be more precise. We don't recommend moving the pushrods any farther away from the center of the servo arms than absolutely necessary.

●

Keeping the pushrod as far away as possible from the control surface is better than moving it closer. The mechanical advantage is greatly reduced the closer the pushrod is moved toward the control surface. We don't recommend moving the pushrods any closer to the control surfaces than absolutely necessary.

THROTTLE MANAGEMENT

It is very important that you understand throttle management. In a nutshell, this means no full throttle dives. Full throttle dives should be avoided so as not to cause control surface flutter. When the nose of the airplane drops, decrease the throttle, just as in full-scale aerobatics.

SECTION 22: CONTROL THROWS

We recommend setting up the Fun Fly 90S ARF using the control throws listed below. These control throws are suggested for initial test-flying because they will allow the airplane to fly smoother and make it easier to control.

TEST-FLYING

Ailerons: 1" Up 1" Down

Elevator: 1-1/4" Up 1-1/4" Down

Rudder: 1" Right 1" Left

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

throws are measured from the widest point of the control surfaces.

✦✦

✦VERY IMPORTANT

✦✦

1/4" lengths of the clear tubing provided and sliding one piece over each clevis. The tubing will prevent the clevises from popping open during flight.

Once you're familiar with the flight characteristics of the airplane, you might want to increase the control throws to the aerobatic-flying settings listed below. These control throws will make the airplane more responsive and allow you to do most aerobatics with ease.

✦✦

✦ The aileron control throw is measured from the tip of the aileron. The elevator and rudder control

✦✦

✦ After you are finished adjusting the pushrods and control throws, we strongly suggest cutting

✦✦

AEROBATIC-FLYING

Ailerons: 1-1/2" Up 1-1/2" Down

Elevator: 1-5/8" Up 1-5/8" Down

Rudder: 1-1/2" Right 1-1/2" Left

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

throws are measured from the widest point of the control surfaces.

✦✦

✦VERY IMPORTANT

✦✦

settings unless you are a very proficient flyer. Higher control throws will cause the airplane to be extremely control-sensitive and result in a possible crash if you are not careful.

✦✦

✦ The aileron control throw is measured from the tip of the aileron. The elevator and rudder control

✦✦

✦ We do not suggest increasing the control throws beyond the recommended aerobatic-flying

✦✦

If you're using a computer radio system and want to set up your

Fun Fly 90S ARF to use mixing and be 3D Aerobatics capable , check

out the Computer Radio Setup section on the next page. We still

recommend setting the control throws to the Test-Flying settings

shown above until after your first few test flights.

SECTION 23: COMPUTER RADIO SETUP

Although you don't have to use a computer radio to enjoy the flying qualities of the Fun Fly 90S ARF, if you're planning on doing extreme 3D aerobatics, it is recommended. Before making any adjustments, please read and understand your radio's setup manual.

Chances are that if you want to set up your Fun Fly 90S ARF with a computer radio to take advantage of mixing capabilities, you probably want an extreme 3D flying machine. In that case, use the 3D Aerobatic control throws listed below.

IMPORTANT - READ THIS BEFORE GOING FURTHER

The 3D aerobatic control throws listed below make the airplane extremely control sensitive. Use these control throws only if you have a computer radio that you can program exponential and dual rates into. Your radio system must have the capability to turn these control throws off during normal flight and turn them on before flying 3D maneuverers. Normal flying does not require this amount of control throw. If you're going to be doing 3D flying, we strongly suggest using the Aerobatic-Flying control throws as your low rate control throws and using the 3D Aerobatic control throws as your high rate control throws. Only switch to high rate control throws when preparing to do 3D Aerobatic maneuvers.

3D AEROBATIC CONTROL THROWS

Ailerons: 3" Up 3" Down

Elevator: 3" Up 3" Down

Rudder: 3-1/4" Right 3-1/4" Left

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

throws are measured from the widest point of the control surfaces.

✦✦

✦ The aileron control throw is measured from the tip of the aileron. The elevator and rudder control

✦✦

EXPONENTIAL:

Expo, as it's more commonly referred to, softens the control feel around neutral. This is especially helpful when flying an airplane that uses a lot of control throw. Softening the neutral point makes the airplane fly more smoothly and makes it more likely that you won't over-control. Obviously, you may want to change the expo settings to suit your flying style, but here are some good starting points:

Ailerons: 50%

Elevator: 60%

Rudder: 50%

We strongly suggest programming exponential into your control surfaces. It will make a huge difference when the control throws are set to the 3D Aerobatics settings. If you don't use exponential with the 3D Aerobatic control throws, the airplane will be so sensitive that you may loose control of it and crash.

FLAPERON AND SPOILERON MIXING:

Plugging the servos separately into the receiver (one into channel 1 and one into channel 6) will allow the use of flaperons (both ailerons down at the same time) and spoilerons (both ailerons up at the same time). These functions can then be mixed with the elevator for extreme pitch changes useful in extreme 3D aerobatic maneuvers.

Elevator: 3" Up and Spoilerons (up) 1-1/2"

Elevator: 3" Down and Flaperons (down) 1-1/2"

✦✦

✦IMPORTANT

✦✦

useful effects. We do not recommend using flaperon and spoileron with elevator mixing during general flying, especially during takeoff and landing.

✦✦

✦ Use of more than 1-1/2" of flaperons and spoilerons will cause excessive drag, negating any of their

✦✦

SECTION 24: PREFLIGHT CHECK & SAFETY

WARNING ABOUT THROTTLE MANAGEMENT

It is very important that you understand throttle management. In a nutshell, this means no full throttle dives. Full throttle dives should be avoided so as not to cause control surface flutter and/or airframe failure. When the nose of the airplane drops, decrease the throttle, just as in full-scale aerobatics.

●

Completely charge the transmitter and receiver batteries before your first day of flying.

●

Check every bolt and every glue joint in the airplane to ensure that everything is tight and well-bonded. This

should include all of the control surface hinges as well.

●

Double-check that you've installed and tightened all of the servo horn retaining screws.

●

Double-check that the receiver and battery are properly secured in the fuselage. There's nothing worse than the

battery pack coming loose during a violent aerobatic maneuver.

●

Double-check the balance of the airplane. Do this with the fuel tank EMPTY.

●

Check the control surfaces. They should all move in the correct direction and not bind.

●

Make sure that you've installed 1/4" long pieces of clear tubing over the clevises to prevent them from opening

during flight.

●

If your radio transmitter is equipped with dual rate switches, double-check that they are on the low-rate setting for your

first few flights.

●

Check to ensure that all of the control surfaces are moving the proper amount in both low and high rate settings.

●

Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage.

●

Properly balance the propeller. A propeller that is out of balance will cause excessive vibration, which could lead to

engine and/or airframe failure, and it will reduce engine efficiency and power.

The following are our general guidelines for your safety and the safety of others. Please read and understand these safety guidelines before going out to the flying field for the first time.

●

Do not test-fly your model for the first time without first having it safety-checked by an experienced modeler.

●

Do not fly your model higher than approximately 400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without having an observer with you. The observer should tell you about any full-size aircraft in your vicinity and you should always give the right-ofway to full-scale aircraft.

●

When flying at a flying field with established rules, you should abide by those rules. You should not deliberately fly your model in a reckless and/or dangerous manner.

●

While flying, you should not deliberately fly behind the flight line. If your model should inadvertently fly behind the flight line, you should change course immediately.

●

You should complete a successful range check of your radio equipment prior to each new day of flying, or prior to the first flight of a new or repaired model.

●

You should perform your initial turn after take- off away from the flightline and/or spectator area.

●

You should not knowingly operate your R/C radio system within 3 miles of a preexisting model club flying field without a frequency sharing agreement with that club.

SECTION 25: FLYING THE FUN FLY 90S ARF

The Fun Fly 90S ARF is designed for those pilots who are experienced at flying sport models. It is not a trainer. If you do not feel comfortable about test-flying the airplane, don't hesitate to ask someone more experienced for help.

When set up for test-flying, the Fun Fly 90S ARF is much like flying any other sport aerobatic airplane. It's a nimble flyer that has a low wing loading. This makes it predictable during slow flight and landing. Because it uses very large control surfaces you need to remember not to over-control. For general sport flying, we recommend you use the "Test-Flying" control throws - and even then, you will not need to move the sticks very far.

WARNING - PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE FLYING YOUR FUN FLY 90S ARF

Because of the extremely large control surfaces and high power-to-weight ratio, control surface flutter is a possibility. To prevent any chance of control surface flutter, always reduce engine power during down-leg maneuvers. Never fly the airplane at full throttle in a downward attitude. Doing so can over-speed the airplane and cause control surface flutter, which can quickly lead to airframe failure and a crash.

TAKE OFF

Because the Fun Fly 90S ARF is light and has a lot of power, it sometimes seems like it wants to take off by itself. Do be aware that it's still important to let the airplane get up to flying speed before lifting off the ground. Lifting the airplane off the ground too fast will cause the airplane to stall and crash. You should allow the airplane to roll out until the tail is completely off the ground and flying, and then gently pull the airplane off the ground and into a shallow climb.

Because of the torque of the engine, the airplane will have a natural tendency to pull to the left when it is accelerating down the runway. You will need to compensate for this by applying and holding right rudder during the takeoff roll. Once the airplane lifts off the ground, you can release the right rudder. Because of the wide landing gear stance and long tail moment, you will find the ground handling of the Fun Fly 90S ARF very smooth and predictable.

IN THE AIR

In the air the Fun Fly 90S ARF is as smooth and docile or as wild and aerobatic as you want it to be. With the control throws set to the "Test-Flying" settings, the airplane is smooth throughout the entire flight envelope, even while moving the control sticks to the corners. Most flyers interested in sport-flying will probably want to keep the control throws set to the "Test-Flying" settings for most maneuvers.

Setting the control throws to the "Aerobatic-Flying" settings opens up a whole new dimension to the airplane. With these settings the airplane becomes extremely responsive in all attitudes, even at very low rates of speed. Thanks to the extremely large control surfaces, all general aerobatic maneuvers can be performed without hesitation. If you want to fly extreme 3D aerobatic maneuvers, you can increase the control throws even more and the airplane will happily oblige. If you don't plan on flying extreme 3D aerobatic maneuvers, we suggest that you make the "Aerobatic-Flying" settings your "high rates" and make the "Test-Flying" settings your "low rates." This way, for take-off, general flying and landing you can use low rates, and for aerobatic-flying you can flip to high rates.

LANDING

Just because the Fun Fly 90S ARF is so aerobatic doesn't mean it's difficult to land. We've designed the airplane so it will slow down to a practical crawl without tip stalling. Because of this design, landings are quite slow and predictable. There is no tendency to tip stall, but we do recommend that you land with a small amount of power. It's not good practice to just chop the power and dive the airplane to the runway.

On your initial upwind leg, reduce power and allow the airplane to begin slowing down. Follow your normal landing procedure, allowing the airplane to gradually lose altitude and speed. When turning onto final approach the airplane should have a slightly nose-down attitude and you should be carrying a small amount of power to control your descent.

Just before touch-down, reduce power to idle and let the airplane settle onto the main gear. If you flair too much or try for a three point landing, the airplane will have a tendency to balloon up and possibly stall if it's too slow. As always, when landing be careful not to over-control. Over-controlling leads to excessive oscillations which don't make for good landings.

SECTION 26: FUN FLY 90S ARF FLIGHT-TRIMMING CHART

After you have test-flown and done the initial trim changes to the airplane, use this trimming chart to begin trimming your airplane. Following and adhering to this chart will result in the ability to diagnose trim problems and correct those problems using the simple adjustments shown below. Making these observations and related corrections will result in a straighter and truer flying airplane.

TRIM FEATURE MANEUVER OBSERVATION CORRECTION

Control Centering Fly general circles and random

maneuvers

Control Throws Fly random maneuvers A) Controls are too sensitive or airplane

Engine Thrust Angle* From straight and level flight,

quickly chop the throttle for a short distance

Center of Gravity From level flight, roll to a 45º

bank and neutralize the controls

Yaw** Into the wind, perform inside

loops using only elevator. Repeat test performing outside loops from an inverted entry

Try for hands off straight and level flight Readjust linkages so the transmitter trim

feels "jerky"

B) Controls are not sensitive enough or

airplane feels "mushy"

A) Airplane continues in a level attitude

for a short distance

B) Airplane pitches nose up

C) Airplane pitches nose down

A) Airplane continues in the bank for a

short distance

B) Nose pitches up

C) Nose pitches down

A) Wing is level throughout

B) Airplane yaws to right in both inside

and outside loops

C) Airplane yaws to left in both inside and

outside loops

D) Airplane yaws to the right in inside

loops and yaws to the left in outside loops

E) Airplane yaws to the left in inside loops

and yaws to the right in outside loops

levers are centered

If A) Adjust linkages to reduce control

throws

If B) Adjust linkages to increase control

throws

If A) Engine thrust angle is correct

If B) Decrease engine down thrust

If C) Increase engine down thrust

If A) Center of gravity is correct

If B) Add nose weight

If C) Remove nose weight or add tail weight

If A) Trim settings are correct

If B) Add left rudder trim

If C) Add right rudder trim

If D) Add left aileron trim

If E) Add right aileron trim

Lateral Balance** Into the wind, perform tight inside

loops using only elevator

Aileron Control System With the wing level, pull to a

vertical climb and neutralize the controls

*Engine thrust angle and center of gravity interact. Check both.

**Yaw and lateral balance produce similar symptoms. Note that the fin may be crooked. Make certain both elevator halves are even

with each other and that they both produce the same amount of control deflection throughout the complete deflection range. Right and left references are as if you were in the cockpit.

A) Wing is level and airplane falls to

either side

B) Airplane falls off to the left. Worsens

as loops tighten

C) Airplane falls off to the right. Worsens

as loops tighten

A) Climb continues along the same path

B) Nose tends to go toward an inside loop

C) Nose tends to go toward an outside loop

If A) Lateral balance is correct

If B) Add weight to right wing tip

If C) Add weight to left wing tip

If A) Trim settings are correct

If B) Raise both ailerons very slightly

If C) Lower both ailerons very slightly

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1) Kit: Modeltech Fun Fly 90S ARF # 123752

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Modeltech FUN FLY90S, 123752 Installation Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual