Model Shipways Western Mountain Buckboard Wagon Instruction Manual

B

Building a Western Mountain

UCKBOARD WAGO

CIRCA LATE 1800-1900’S

N

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

KIT NO. MS6004

Technical Characteristics:
Scale 1:12, 1” = 1 foot
Length 9.75”
Width 5.25”
Height 5.25” (minus whip)
Kit design, plans, instructions, and prototype model by Ken Foran, 2012

© 2013 Model Shipways, Inc.

modelexpo-online.com

Before You Begin

The Western Mountain Buckboard is a historic and distinctly American vehicle and makes a
splendid model. The buckboard originated in the mountainous areas of the north eastern states
and the design moved west with pioneers and evolved into a pleasure and utility vehicle. The
original versions were nothing more than a seat bolted to a long spring board attached to two
axles. Over time, more renements were added for pleasure and enjoyment. This model is an ex­ample of that evolution with the addition of the front spring and the rear Shuler Spring. The rear
Shuler Spring combines the features of the helical coil and torsion spring enabling the vehicle to

withstand the rigors of rough mountainous terrain due to its exibility of design. This three point

suspension concept was later adopted by the Model T automobile. At 1” = 1’ 0” (1:12) scale, it is
relatively easy to build and obtain precise detail. Laser-cut parts offer a simple building method.

Britannia (white metal) ttings, and brass photo etch parts eliminate creating parts from scratch.

Before starting the model, carefully examine the kit and study the plans and the instruction
manual. First, determine if all the listed parts are present using the Materials List. Handling them
will produce a better understanding of the kit’s requirements. Try to visualize how every piece will
look on the completed model. Look at and study the reference photos at the end of these assem­bly instructions.

Also, follow the suggested building sequence and what must be done rst, or ahead of time and

what can be done simultaneously if you wish. For example, you may want to skip to the end of
this manual and begin the wheel construction as you are working on other parts or waiting for
glued assemblies to set.

The Plans

Overall plan sheets are provided. The plans are one in an isometric format illustrating the con­struction sequence and identifying the parts and their placement. Sheet 1 shows the layout of

the parts on the laser cut wood sheets and identies the parts by name. It also shows the photo­etched brass sheet and identies these parts. These drawings are to no particular scale, being
illustrative of the construction sequence and sized to t on the sheet. There are no parts to be

made by referring to a full size plan. Some items are drawn to full scale and are so noted on the
plan sheets.

Make Allowances during the build.

Try to be exact when following the instructions, but use common sense. Adjustments may be nec­essary to compensate for small differences in how your model is shaping up and how the parts
are relating to each other. An old saying in the model building craft is that “if it looks right, it is
right.”

Kit Lumber

Basswood strips and laser cut sheets of basswood and plywood are supplied in the kit. Sorting
the wood in the kit by dimension is a good practice. After selecting and cutting what you need,
return the remaining stock to the proper dimension pile. Don’t worry about using a piece for one
item intended for another. Model Trailways supplies enough extra wood to complete the model
before running out.

A word about laser cutting: a common misconception is that the parts should punch out of the
carrier sheet. This is not so. Laser cut parts are retained in the carrier sheet by small bridges of
uncut wood called tabs. Tabs can be oriented parallel to the grain or perpendicular to the grain.

It is always better to cut through these tabs rather than try to punch out the parts by breaking

the tabs. This is particularly true of laser cut plywood. Plywood is much more difcult to laser cut

than basswood. You may have to cut through not only the tabs but portions of the part outline
that did not cut completely through the sheet. Turn the sheet over and cut from the backside to
release the part without damage.

Britannia Metal Fittings

There are many Britannia (white metal) parts and ttings in this kit. First, remove any mold joint
ash with a #11 hobby blade, then le or sand with ne sanding stick or sandpaper. Second,
wash ttings in dishwashing liquid and warm water to remove traces of mold release agent and
the body oils your ngers deposit. Allow the parts to dry thoroughly before applying primer and

painting. For applications where it is required to glue a Britannia part to wood, it is a good idea
to rough up the Britannia gluing surface with a sanding stick or sandpaper.

Wheel Hubs and Axles

The wheel hubs in the kit are precision machined. The axles are cast Britannia metal. It is impor-

tant to check the t of the hubs on the axles at the outset before beginning the kit. Being cast,
the axles will likely have a tiny bit of ash preventing a running t on the hubs. Use a sanding
stick to work the axles until the hubs t and run freely. The axle can be easily bent, so work care-

fully. If you should happen to bend an axle, it can be straightened, also avoid paint build up when
painting the axle.

Working with Brass

The brass in the kit is a photo-etched sheet. Use care when cutting the square nuts from the

sheet.
The etching process causes a slight angle on the edges of the square nuts which you may wish to

le square for greater authentic detail. The brass rod will need to be formed in a U shape using

small needle nose pliers.
Glues: White or Weldwood glue will work well for most applications. Five-minute epoxy provides

extra strength for some cases. Super glues, such as Jet, Flash, or Zap, produce quick adhesion. For

most applications, the medium viscosity, gap-lling variety is best. The thin type is recommended
for lling a narrow crack and wicking into laminate joints. We will refer to super glues as CA (cy-

anoacrylite).
A word about gluing laser cut parts. Laser cutting burns through the wood and leaves a charred

surface. This charred surface does not make good glue joints. It is recommended to lightly sand

or scrape away the loose char before gluing. It is not necessary to remove all the char, unless a

nished wood surface is required. In some cases simply scraping with a # 11 blade is sufcient.

Clamps: Clamps are an essential part of the model building experience. In the full size boat
building arena it is often said, “A boat builder cannot have too many clamps.” This is true of model
building also. There are so many situations in the course of building a model that require a par­ticular type of clamp. The photo below shows a typical collection of clamps that are useful in
model building.

Tools: Below is a picture of a suggested tool assortment to build this kit.

Building Tips and Suggestions before Starting to Build

Read assembly instructions to understand and familiarize yourself with various parts and 1.
components and how they relate to each other. For the sake of clarity of detail the cast
parts in these assembly instructions are not painted Satin Black as they should be in the

nal model.

Verify that you have all the tools and materials needed to start the build. See the additional 2.
materials and suggested tool list provided.

Follow the suggested build sequence outlined in the assembly instructions.3.
Pay attention to steps that are BOLD face type. These are critical actions to avoid problems 4.

with assembly or extra care is needed.
Clean excess residue from laser cutting from surfaces and edges of wood parts.5.
Cast white metal parts are delicate due to replicating in 1/12 th scale. Extra care and cau-6.

tion is required when cleaning, ling parting lines and adjusting to dry ts.
Cast rail parts can be straightened by gently rolling with your nger on a straight section of 7.

rail on at corner surface, be careful with the rail posts to avoid bending by accident.

Prime and paint all cast parts Satin Black prior to assembling. Wheel hubs to be painted 8.
DarkTan to simulate wood and then stained as the spokes are stained.

All wood parts to be stained English Oak water based stain and sprayed with Clear Matte 9.
Finish except where noted when stain is used for carving reference. All glues will work with

a water based stain when dry. DO NOT USE solvent based stain which will cause glue joint

failure long term.
Take your time and enjoy the build process as much as the nished model.10.

Western Mountain Buckboard Assembly Instructions

Building the Platform Base

Remove the platform parts – Platform, and three cross braces from the 1/16th sheet WB-1 1.

by cutting the connector tabs with a sharp #11 Xacto blade.

Sand all edges to remove tab burrs and excess burned char, and then lightly sand all top 2.
and bottom surfaces to remove any burn residue characteristic of laser cutting.

Use water based wood stain (MS4975 English Oak). Water based stains assure compatibil-3.
ity with most glues including CA once dry. Solvent based stains DO NOT always allow glue
adhesion over time. Stain parts on all edges and surfaces.

After stain is completely dry spray parts with a Clear Matte Finish. When dry sand lightly to 4.
smooth surface and then spray a second time.

The three cross bases have small starter holes to receive the #8 pins that simulate the 5.
screw heads. Paint the pin heads rst with a primer then with Satin Black paint by sticking

them into a scrap piece of cardboard, 65 in total. Starting with the center brace and insert
the painted pins (23) in the starter holes using needle nose pliers. Work carefully and hold

the pin near the point to press t into the holes and then press in all the way so that the
pin head is ush to the surface. Repeat pin insertion for the front and rear braces.

Carefully apply a drop of CA glue to the pin shafts to securely glue the pins in place.6.
Once the CA is set then using small end cutters, carefully cut off each pin shaft as close as 7.

possible to the wood surface. Should any pins loosen during cutting, just glue again. When

cutting pin shafts off hold the parts down into a wastebasket and wear safety glasses.

Once all pins are cut off; then using a mill bastard le, CAREFULLY le the pin shaft ends 8.
ush with the wood surfaces. Should any pins loosen during ling, just glue again.

Determine the bottom front edge of the platform; the front edge has a bolt hole in the 9.
center along the edge. The top has the laser lines replicating the individual boards. Then
measure 2- 1/2” from the front edge and draw a light reference line on each side of the
platform using the laser cut building square supplied on WB-1.

Photo 1 Locating and gluing cross braces.
Glue the front edge of the center brace in place aligned with the reference lines and using 10.

small spring clamps hold the side edges in place. Ckeck with building square. (see photo 1)
Glue the rear cross brace in place using round toothpicks as locators to align all the holes. 11.

Use spring clamps until glue is set. Repeat step to glue front brace in place, make sure the
front edges of the brace and platform are ush. Again align all the holes.

Remove spring clamps once glue is set on all braces and spray top and bottom of platform 12.
with Clear Matte Finish for nal coat and set aside to dry.

Photo 2 Bottom view of completed platform with screw heads

Build Drilling Jig

Remove drill jig base 1” x 4” x 3/32” plywood from WB-3 plywood sheet1.
Remove drill jig spacer 1/2” x 4” x 1/64” from WB-4 plywood sheet.2.
Glue spacer to drill jig base and align along one edge and ends of base.3.

Remove the small square from WB-1 1/16” sheet, sand edges then draw a reference line 4.

across the center line of the drill jig. This will aid in aligning the drill bit when drilling

through parts. (See Photo 3)

Build Wheel Fixture

Remove large square with hole in center from WB-3 the 3/32” plywood sheet.1.
Locate 1/8” x 1/8” x 12” Basswood strip and cut eight (8) 1 inch pieces.2.
Glue the 1” strips diagonally across each corner of on both sides square xture. (See Photo 3.

25)
This wheel building xture will also work as a at working surface for seat spring assembly. 4.

(See Photo 5)

Platform Seat Spring Brackets – 2 needed.

Remove the two (2) platform spring brackets from WB-2 the 3/32” basswood sheet.1.
On both, lightly draw a reference line 1/4” from front edge of bracket on the side of the 2.

part.

sing the drill jig carefully drill a hole on the center of the reference line with the at edges 3.
of the brackets against the 1/64” spacer edge using a #55 drill bit held in a pin vise. Care
must be used to keep the drill bit at on the jig surface and square using the reference line
drawn on the drill jig. (See Photo 3)

Photo 3 Using drill jig.

Insert two round toothpicks into holes 3 inches from the front edge of the platform from 4.
the bottom side of the platform and set the bracket on the tooth pick end. (See Photo 4)

Carefully pivot the brackets to see the second hole locations in the platform and draw 5.
marks for the center of the holes on the side of the brackets. (See photo 4)

Drill the second mounting holes in the brackets using the #55 drill bit. 6.
Locate the center of the curved top surface and mark a reference center line. Measure 3/16” 7.

in each direction from the center and mark drill locations for two holes 3/8” on center. Once

marked drill holes through center of bracket using drill jig with #55 drill bit.
Once holes are drilled and dry tted with hole alignments checked; then stain and Clear 8.

Matte Finish.
Locate the two cast seat springs and using the cast in hole locations carefully drill using 9.

#67 drill bit in all eight (8) holes in springs. Then enlarge holes using #55 drill bit.
Clean and le smooth all parting lines and then prime and paint with Satin Black paint.10.

Insert four (4) 3/8” long painted round headed bolts into the central holes from the bottom 11.
side of the brackets and through the holes in the painted seat springs with glue applied to
the mating wood/spring surfaces. (See Photo 5)

Note: The square nuts face inboard in nal assembly and the high side of the wood bracket
is to the rear. Lay on a at surface to allow the glue to set. These are the seat spring mount-

ing bolts that MUST be in place rst before gluing seat mounting brackets to platform.

Photo 4 Locating and marking holes.

Insert and glue one (1) 3/8” long bolt in the rear hole of the bracket and one (1) 1/4” long 12.
bolt in the front hole.
Note: the longer arm of the platform bracket is to the front of the platform. (See Photos 4 &

5)

Photo 5 Seat spring assembly.
Once all the round head bolts are in place glue the spring to the upper and lower wood 13.

brackets. Allow glue to dry and add four (4) small nuts to the four (4) central 3/8” long bolts

and then trim bolt shafts to proper length and le square. Touch up with paint.

Seat Spring Brackets – 2 assemblies needed a left and a right.

Remove two (2) seat spring brackets from WB-2 the 3/32” basswood sheet. Note: in looking 1.

at the side prole of the bracket the arc has a high end. The high end MUST orient to the

rear of the platform when assembled to top surface of the seat springs. This enables the
seat surface to tilt slightly forward. (see photo 5)

Center the at edge of the seat spring bracket front to rear next to the holes in the seat 2.
base and mark the center of the hole locations. Use the drill jig to drill #55 holes through
the center of the brackets. Then mark the centerline of the bracket along the at edge and

transfer the centerline marks to the arced edge. Then mark left and right of the centerline
5/32” for hole locations. These are two (2) hole locations on 5/16” center-to-center, the
same as the mating spring holes.

Carefully drill four (2) holes about 1/8” deep into the arced surfaces using the #55 drill bit.3.
Apply glue to the arced surface of the bracket, insert two (2) 3/16” bolts and glue bracket to 4.

spring surface and let the glue set on a at surface. (See Photo 5) IMPORTANT: The square
nuts on the springs must face inboard in nal left and right assemblies. Repeat for second

spring/bracket assembly. Set both assemblies aside for later assembly.

Seat Assembly

Remove the seat base from WB-1 the 1/16” basswood sheet. Sand the seat base edges half 1.
round on all four (4) sides. Stain and spray with Clear Matte Finish and set aside.

Remove seat sides and back from WB-1 the 1/16” basswood sheet. Note: on the side parts 2.

the holes are towards the top edge and on the back part the top edge is arced.
Remove the building square from WB-1 basswood sheet and sand the edges smooth.3.

Carefully cut and sand the two angled sides of the seat back such that the edges mate ush 4.
with the seat sides when held square to them. Use the building square on a at surface to
check. This is a critical step so take time and dry t to check. (See photo 6)

Carefully cut and sand the two bottom edges of the two seat sides and the bottom edge of 5.

the seat back such that when held together will sit ush on the surface of the seat base.

(See Photo 6) Also slightly round the two (2) top corners of the seat back.

Photo 6

Once all edges are dry tted then stain and spray with Clear Matte Finish.6.
Apply Weldwood glue to one side of the angled edge seat back and glue to the seat side on 7.

a at surface using the building square and let the glue set. (See Photo 7)

Photo 7

Once the glue is set repeat for the other side.8.
Carefully apply glue to the bottom angled edges of the seat sides and back and then glue 9.

to seat base and justify location equally around the mounting holes in the seat base. (See

Photo 8)

Photo 8

Clean, smooth and carefully straighten and adjust the seat rail to match the hole locations 10.
on the seat sides and back. When satised with dry t prime and paint with Satin Black

paint. Then locate and glue in place using (4) 3/16” bolts inserted from the inside of the

seat area. Let the glue set. Using #55 drill bit drill the top holes into the wood parts using
the mounting ange holes as guides. Insert and glue four (4) 3/16” bolts and then add eight

(8) painted 11 square nuts to the bolt ends. The square nuts are from photo etched brass
sheet. (See photo 8)

Place seat assembly aside as pictured in Photo 8 to allow glue to set and for later use in 11.
the build.

Apron Assembly

Remove apron from WB-1 the 1/16” basswood sheet. Remove Apron formers, two curved 1.
and one straight from WB-2 the 3/32” basswood sheet and sand all edges to remove excess
char.

Stain and spray with Clear Matte Finish the apron and formers and let dry thoroughly be-2.
fore step 4.

Cut a 2 - 5/8” long (the width of the bottom edge of the apron) from the 1/8” x 1/8” wood 3.
strip. This strip represents the thickness of the front edge of the assembled platform base.

Wet the apron under running hot water until the entire wood piece is totally hot. This soft-4.
ens the wood so use 1/64” wood spacers from WB-4 and save for later use building the
wheels.

Working quickly using spring clamps and the 1/64” plywood spacers (WB-6) on front surface 5.

of apron, clamp the 1/8” x 1/8” strip ush along the bottom edge of the apron. Important:
the strip must be ush. The inside surface of the apron will have the whip holder holes on

the lower right side while looking at it.
Locate the two (2) formers over their respective holes in the apron and the bottom edges 6.

against the spacer strip and clamp in place using the 1/64” spacers on the front surface of
the apron between the clamp and wood in the center of the former. (See Photo 9) Allow the
apron wood to thoroughly dry completely.

Photo 9 – Forming the Apron
Once completely dry move the two (2) formers inboard enough to expose the holes in the 7.

apron wall and mark the centerline of the holes on the side of the formers. Remove the

former clamps and using the drilling jig drill #55 holes in both formers and dry t back in

place and ream holes in both formers and apron wall. Note leave strip clamps in place. (See
Photo 10)

Photo 10

Using round toothpicks inserted in top and bottom former holes only from the front side 8.
of the apron; glue the curved formers in place making sure the bottom edge of the former
touches the spacer strip. Do Not glue former to spacer strip.

Dry t the straight former between the top edges two curved vertical formers, carefully trim 9.
length if necessary for tight t then glue in place. Allow glue to set then remove all clamps.

When the apron assembly glue is completely set carefully ream all the holes with a #55 10.
drill bit. Trim the top edge of formers to be ush with top edge of apron if necessary.

Set apron aside for later assembly. 11.

Platform Assembly

Locate the two (2) painted Front Spring bar mounting brackets and glue to the underside 1.

of the front platform assembly. Use round toothpicks to align the holes and make sure the

hole in the wood Spring Bar align with the holes in the mounting brackets and glue the
spring bar in place with two (2) 1/4” round bolts and two (2) small square nuts on bolt

shafts. Note: Let all glue joints set rmly before the next step. (See Photo 11)

Photo 11

Insert round head bolts from the top surface of the platform and glue (2) -1/4” (rear) and (2) 2.

- 3/8” (front) long bolts in their respective holes and then add (4) painted brass P.E. square
nuts. Then trim the excess length on the bolt shafts by using a spar square nut on the shaft

as a guide and cut with end cutters and le ush with spare nut.

Glue the two (2) cast 90 degree brackets to the bottom of the two apron formers using 3.
round tooth picks inserted from the front surface of the apron. When bracket glue is dry add
four (4) 3/8” round head bolts through the front surface of the apron and square nuts and

trim excess off of the bolt shafts. Allow complete assembly glue joints to set.
Glue apron with 90 degree brackets in place to platform with bottom edge of apron ush 4.

to spring bar brackets and bottom edge of front platform cross brace aligning 90 degree
bracket holes with platform holes using round toothpicks. (See Photo 12)

Photo 12

Platform Cast Parts

Foot Rest:

Dry t and adjust, straighten and align foot rest ange holes with platform center hole and 1.
two rear holes in 90 degree anges, then prime and paint.

Glue two (2) 1/4” round head bolts down through the top of the 90 degree brackets in the 2.
front hole positions and add square nuts before adding the painted foot rest.

Locate the footrest center hole with a round toothpick and carefully adjust the side ange 3.
holes to align with the rear holes in the 90 degree apron bracket. Add and glue 1/4” round
bolts and nuts in each location, one at a time.

Foot Steps:

The shorter painted foot steps are located to the front of the apron. Locate and align each 1.
with their respective holes using a round toothpick and carefully using Weldwood glue on

ange of foot rest, glue in place without gluing the toothpick in the hole. Add and glue

3/16” round bolts and square nuts. Repeat for rear steps and allow glue to set.

Rear Spring:

Carefully drill/ream (8) mounting holes in anges. Carefully adjust and dry t ange hole 1.
locations in rear platform cross brace using round toothpicks. Paint rear spring when satis-

ed with dry t.
Once paint is set, glue spring anges in place aligning holes with toothpicks.2.

Add and glue (8) 1/4” round bolts and square nuts.3.

Whip Holder:

Clean and drill mounting holes with #55 drill bit. Dry t to holes (2) in lower right of apron 1.
wall (See Photos 12 &14)

Paint whip holder and then glue in place aligning the mounting holes. Add and glue 1/4” 2.

round bolts and square nuts. Paint and test t whip into hole for slip t into place. Ream
hole in holder and/or le whip for slip t.

Seat to Platform Assembly

The seat can now be added to the platform using the previously built seat spring bracket
assemblies in Photo 5.
Dry t the two (2) seat spring assemblies aligning mounting holes in brackets with mount-1.

ing holes in underside of seat platform and glue two (2) 1/4” round head bolts down
through seat platform surface. Note: the longer arm of the bracket faces forward to enable
seat to tilt forward and the square nuts on the springs face inboard. Holding seat spring
and seat together carefully add CA glue to inside edge of bracket and underside of seat
surface and while still setting true up with building square. (See Photo 13)

Once the glue has set repeat for other side and allow glue to set.2.

Photo 13

Now the seat assembly can be added to the platform by aligning the four (4) mounting 3.
holes in the platform with the mounting bolts in the seat assembly and carefully glued

with CA added to the inside mating surfaces. True up using the building square just behind

the seat before glue sets permanently.(See Photo 14)

Photo 14

Once glue has set add small square nuts to front bolts only for extra strength.4.

Front Axle Carriage Assembly

1. Remove the two (2) head block parts with the two holes from WB-1 the 1/16th basswood 1.
sheet, align the holes and glue together. Once the glue has set, sand all surfaces to remove
any laser residue.

Carefully with a sharp #11 blade cut both ends of the head block at a 45 degree angle 2.
1/32” in from the end on the four surfaces resulting in a beveled ends. Stain and spray n-

ish the head block. (See Photo 15)

Photo 15

Once dry and ready to handle locate the cleaned and painted up upper half of the cast part 3.

of the fth wheel (see Photo 15) and center on the at bottom surface of the head block.

IMPORTANT The head block must be centered use the center point of the block and the

sides of the fth wheel to verify. Once veried glue the block in place.
Drill two holes with a #55 drill bit using the pilot hole positions in the cast part and drill 4.

straight down through both the cast fth wheel and head block. Then glue two painted (2)

3/16” round head bolts into the holes down from the top of the wood head block. Once the

glue has set le ush with the at face surface of the fth wheel the excess length of the

bolt shafts.
On the large painted front axle spring mark a center reference line on the top and bottom 5.

surfaces.
Mark the center of the head block between the two holes with a reference mark. 6.
Align the large front axle spring reference mark with that on the head block and glue in 7.

place making sure they are center aligned to each other.

Locate the two (2) painted head block clips with the at tops and longer bolt shafts; slip 8.
the clips onto the head block and seat against the at surface with the outside edge of the

clip aligned with the point where the spring and curve of the head block meet. (See Photo

16) Cut and paint two (2) clip brackets from the photo etched sheet and glue onto the bolt
shafts and then glue two (2) small square P.E. nuts onto the bolt shafts.

Photo 16

Once the glue has set thoroughly for step 8 assembly; align the center marks on the spring 9.
and spring bar and using a spring clamp glue in place. NOTE: Round head of bolts on end of
spring point forward the square nuts to the rear.

Locate and add painted spring bar clips with shorter bolt shafts and glue in place aligned 10.
with head bolt bolts. Cut and paint two (2) clip brackets from the photo etched sheet and
glue onto the bolt shafts and then glue two (2) small square P.E. nuts onto the bolt shafts.

Put assembly aside to allow glue to set.11.

Front and Rear Axles

Remove front and rear wood axle caps from WB-2 the 3.32” basswood sheet and sand all 1.

surfaces and stain only. Dry t and adjust if necessary the cast metal axles for a tight t to

the mating surface of the wood axle caps.
Select the front axle cap (with two holes) and glue to the painted cast metal front axle 2.

centered between the outboard wheel bearing surfaces to the top surface of the axle. Use

small spring clamps to hold tight in place until glue sets. Repeat and glue the rear axle
wood cap to the cast metal axle. Let the glue set on both axles.

Carefully carve /le and sand smooth the upper surfaces of the front and rear axle caps 3.
from the ends in to the at mounting surfaces. Do not carve the at mounting surfaces. Use
the stain nish as reference while carving to keep all carving even. (See photo17)

Photo 17

Once satised with carved and sanded smoothed surfaces re-stain carved areas with a little 4.
stain on the tip of a Q-tip. Once the stain is dry then spray Clear Matte Finish on both axle
assemblies.

Front Axle

Dry t the front axle assembly (with the two holes) into the painted cast lower half of the 1.
fth wheel aligning the two holes with the two axle holes and centering the cast part with
the two at mounting surfaces on the axle cap. (See photo 18)

When satised with the dry t then glue the axle assembly to the cast fth wheel half. 2.

Cut and paint two (2) axle clip brackets from the photo etched sheet and glue onto the bolt 3.

shafts on the fth wheel half and then glue two (2) small square nuts onto the bolt shafts.

Insert/glue two (2) 1/4” painted round head bolts into the two holes in the axle assembly 4.

from the front and then glue two (2) square nuts to the bolt shafts. Note: Align the side of

the square nuts to be up and down (vertical). The king pin must t between them.

Carefully form the center bolt pivot clip using the 1/32” brass rod 1/2” x 1/8” x 1/2” and dry 5.

t to center of front axle and add the cast bolt pivot indexing over the pivot on the fth
wheel. Glue both in place when satised with t and add two (2) small square nuts. (See

Photo 18).

Photo 18

Rear Axle

Invert the platform assembly and rest parallel to work surface with the rear spring mount-1.

ing surface facing up. Carefully apply glue to at mounting surface of the painted metal
spring and set the wood axle cap at mating surface in place and align the axle so that it

matches the metal surfaces.
Fit and glue the two (2) painted long rear axle clips that will hold the rear axle assembly 2.

to the rear spring; applying the clips down over the rear spring rst. Then apply the painted

clip brackets and small square nuts. Allow the assembly glue to set.
Once the assembly glue is set, carefully adjust the axle/spring assembly to be parallel to 3.

the rear edge of the platform; both in looking down as well as from the rear views.(See
Photo 19)

Photo 19

Reach Assembly

Cut two (2) 3/32” x 3/32” x 5 - 13/16” long basswood strips for the reach arms from supplied 1.
basswood strip. Stain and spray with Clear Matte Finish, the two reach arms.

Remove two (2) reach arm metal plates from the brass photo etched sheet then prime and 2.
paint with Satin Black one side and all edges.

Glue the two (2) reach arm metal plates to the top surface of the wood reach arms with 3.

the two holes in the metal plate aligned ush with one end of the wood reach arm leaving

about 1/2” of the wood strip exposed at the other end.
Once the glue has set on the reach arms then drill holes through the wood arms using #55 4.

drill bit and the holes in the metal plate as guides.
Align and glue the painted reach plate to the front end upper surface of the reach arms us-5.

ing the toothpicks into the rear holes on each arm of the reach plate to match the hole in
the reach arm. Carefully use spring clamp to hold until glue sets. Once glue is set carefully
drill the two front holes through the reach arms using the holes in the reach plate arms

as guides with the #55 drill bit. NOTE: These holes must be drilled vertically through the

wood reach arm.
With the platform assembly inverted and the platform parallel to the work surface; set the 6.

axle assembly fth wheel half onto the other half of the fth wheel and hold in place with

two alligator spring clips.
Carefully feed the reach arms with reach plate down through the center of the fth wheel 7.

halves and align the two holes in the plate with the two holes in the head block and insert
and glue two (2) 3/8” round head bolts into holes through the head block and reach plate.
NOTE: The reach arms can be temporarily clamped to rear axle to aid with assembly.

The reach plate pivot should touch and align with the fth wheel pivot hole, carefully 8.
adjust to touch and align if necessary then insert the 3/4” long king bolt into reach plate
hole and up though the fth wheel pivot and hold the king bolt shaft in place with a small

alligator spring clamp so it does not fall back out of holes.

Add two (2) small square nuts to the 3/8” bolt shafts making sure to orient the side of the 9.
nuts vertically on either side of the king bolt round head.

Dry t reach brace carefully to the reach arms (remove clamps holding arms to rear axle) 10.
and onto the king bolt (tape king bolt head to hold in place when alligator spring clamp is
removed) and reach arms aligning all the holes. The reach brace arms with pivot hole may

have to be carefully bent to align the hole onto the king bolt shaft. Once satised with dry
t use spring clamp to hold in place and glue reach brace to reach arms. At the same time

add two (2) large square nuts to the shaft of the king bolt. NOTE: Add glue to only the top

large square nut to allow axle to turn freely. Let the glue joints set before next step. (see

Photo 20)
Once glue has set ream the rear reach plate and brace arm holes with #55 drill bit and 11.

insert/glue two (2) 3/8” painted round head bolts into rear holes and add two (2) small
square nuts onto bolt shafts.

Now ream the front holes and note: adjust and align the holes of the two small arms that 12.
come off the upper fth wheel half to those in the reach arm. Add two (2) 3/8” painted
round head bolts down through the fth wheel arms and add two (2) small square nuts and

glue in place. (See photo 20)

Photo 20

Move down to the holes in the center of the reach arms and align painted cross brace holes 13.
with holes in reach arm. Insert/glue two (2) 3/16” painted round head bolts into holes and

add two (2) small square nuts. Allow glue to set for cross brace joints. (See photo 21)

Reach to Rear Axle

Locate the two (2) painted rear axle clips with the longer bolt shafts and slip down over the 1.
rear axle and index into the two reach arm holes on each arm. Then carefully slip two (2)
painted clip brackets in place over the axle clip shafts. Slight tension should hold them in
place.

Carefully center the reach arms equally from the center of the rear axle. Once centered glue 2.
clips and brackets in place and add four (4) small square nuts to clip shafts.

Locate the two (2) short rear axle clips at the wheel end of the axle 1/4” on center of the 3.
clip from the wheel bearing surface on the cast metal axle and add two (2) clip brackets
and glue in place. Do not add small square nuts yet.

Locate and add the two (2) painted reach to rear axle braces. Slip the brace end with one 4.

hole over the front axle clip shafts and adjust the ends with the two holes to mate ush

with the reach arms. Check to make sure the axle is still parallel with the end of the plat­form when looking down.

With axle parallel and brace anges ush to the reach arms mark and drill holes using #55 5.
drill bit through reach arm. Select one brace rst, insert/glue two (2) 3/16”painted round

head bolts and small square nuts. Then repeat for the second brace. Now add all the small
square nuts to the small axle clips with brace ends in place.

Locate the last two (2) rear axle clips and center them between the reach arm clip and the 6.
axle end clip then glue in place while adding the clip brackets and small square nuts. (See
Photo 21)

Photo 21

Luggage Rail, Apron and Seat Rail

These parts are very delicate castings to achieve accurate scale and will require careful and 1.

delicate handling. All should be cleaned, dry tted, adjusted prior to painting. Some may
have become distorted in shipping and handling requiring delicate adjustment. Truing up
can be accomplished by gently rolling rails with nger on a at wood surface.

With the platform assembly still inverted t and adjust luggage rail so that all ange holes 2.
align with their mounting holes on the underside of the platform. Index the front ange

on the bolt shaft of the rear seat mounting bracket and clamp with small alligator spring

clamps. Then adjust and add toothpicks to index the corner and end anges and holes.
This step may require the use of small needle nose pliers to adjust rail posts or anges for
alignment. Once satised with t; prime and paint and then re-t and glue in place using

four (4) 3/16” round bolts and small square nuts. Just add/glue two (2) small square nuts to

the rear seat spring bracket bolts with rail ange in place. Allow glue to completely set and

true up rails to edges of platform. (See photo 23)

Now with the platform assembly setting upright resting on the reach arms; dry t the apron 3.
rail and seat rail after cleaning and adjusting then prime and paint both.

The apron hand rail requires two (2) 3/16” and four (4) 3/8” painted round head bolts and 4.

six (6) small square nuts. Index/glue the two end anges with 3/16” bolts into apron holes

next to the formers and add square nuts. Let the glue set. Note: Insert all bolts from front
surface of the apron.

Align the hand rail anges with the four (4) holes and add 3/8” round head bolts with 5.
square nuts and glue in place. (See Photo 22) Ream holes with a #55 drill bit if necessary.

Photo 22

Dry t the seat rail and adjust as needed so that rail anges align with the holes in the in-6.
side surfaces of the seat walls with the lower holes on the rail anges. Once satised with
dry t prime and paint seat rail.

Index four (4) 3/16” painted round head bolts into the lower holes glue and add small 7.

square nuts to bolt shafts. If necessary adjust post alignment before glue sets.
Once glue is dry; drill holes with #55 drill bit using the upper ange holes as guide, holes 8.

through the side walls. Insert/glue four (4) 3/16” round head bolts and square nuts and glue
in place. (See Photo 23)

Photo 23

Here is an overall view of all rails in place.(See Photo 24)9.

Photo 24

At this point touch with paint up any bolts, nuts or components and set assembly aside. 10.

Wheel Assembly

Remove the four (4) plywood wheel rims from the 3/32” plywood sheet WD-3 by cutting the 1.

tabs with a #11 Xacto knife. The larger diameter rims are for the rear wheels; the smaller

diameter the front wheels.
Sand and clean both the inside and outside surfaces of all the rims to remove the burnt 2.

char residue from the laser cutting. The char has an adverse effect with most adhesives re-

sulting in weak glue joints. Tip: Use a small course needle le after the initial sanding while
ling the wheel rim on a scrap wood surface to le the inside surface where the spokes will

be glued. Once clean of char then stain only and allow the rims to dry.
Cut the large rear wheel paper template from the provided template sheet. Carefully cut 3.

out the center hub hole and place on the previously built wheel assembly jig with the
1/8” x 1/8” x 1 inch strips glued diagonally in the four corners. Insert and test t the metal
wheel hub into the paper template hole while also placing the wheel hub into the jig hole

and check for the wheel hub to be concentric with the circular reference line.

Using double sided tape, spray glue, or glue stick the paper template with the spoke loca-4.
tions visible to the plywood wheel assembly jig.

Locate the large plywood rim onto the paper template and align the rim with the draw-5.

ing of the rim perimeter and use four (4) spring clamps to hold the rim rmly in place. (See
Photo 25). Insert painted (Satin Dark Tan) wheel hub with at axle bearing surface facing
up in the wheel assembly jig center hole.

Photo 25

Remove fourteen (14) of the long spokes from WB-2 the 3/32” basswood sheet by cutting 6.
the retaining tabs on the edges of the spokes.

Identify the wider end of the spokes and mark lightly with a pencil a reference line 3/16” 7.

down from the end on all 14 spokes. With the laser cut surface up and a sharp #11 Xacto

blade trim each end using the 3/16” reference mark leaving about 1/16” wood surface in
the center and trim excess (1/64”) off each side; then sand smooth and then stain all the
spokes and allow to dry. (See Photo 26)

Photo 26

Using a pencil lightly mark on the plywood wheel rim the center of each spoke location for 8.
reference.

Remove the spoke spacer shims from WB-4 the 1/64” plywood sheet and place one under 9.
the spoke at the wheel rim end of the spoke about 1/16” from the rim to avoid being glued
to the spoke during assembly.

Using Weldwood glue on the end of a round toothpick dab a drop of glue on each end of 10.
the spoke and then insert the spoke at a slight angle into the hub rst and the other end

aligned to the spoke center reference mark and press the spoke end against the inside of

the rim making sure the hub end is aligned with the hub center axle hole. Adjust as needed
with tweezers and remove any excess glue at either end of the spoke. Since this is the rst

spoke allow the glue to set before adding the rest of the spokes to avoid shifting.

Once the rst spoke glue has set a little; quickly and carefully glue the remaining spokes in 11.
place using the rim spoke center location marks and justify the equal spacing around the

hub before the glue completely sets.

Put the assembly jig aside to allow the glue to set with the rim clamps in place and all the 12.
spokes in their proper position. To further assure a good strong joint add drops of CA glue
carefully around the joint where the cast wheel hub and spokes meet. CAUTION: Be care­ful not to glue the wheel hub to the assembly jig by adding too much CA glue. Allow the
CA glue to set completely before removing the clamps holding the rim to the assembly jig.

(See Photo 27)

Photo 27

While waiting for the gluing operations (Step 12) to set; sand and clean the remaining rims 13.
and spokes for each remaining wheel.

Once the CA glue has completely set, remove the clamps from the wheel rim and set the 14.
wheel aside. Clamp the second wheel rim in place and repeat Steps 6 -12 for the second
large wheel.

Repeat Steps 3-5 using the front wheel rim sizes. Justify (equalize) the smaller rim size with 15.
the lines on the paper template to make sure it is centered relative to the hub.

Repeat Steps 6-12 using the shorter spokes.16.

Once all the wheels are assembled and all glue joints rmly set it is time to carefully hand 17.
carve the spokes to their nal shape using a new sharp #11 Xacto blade. This next carving

step should be done slowly, carefully and cautiously being sensitive to the direction and
hardness of the wood grain in each spoke. When completed all the spokes should have the
same light airy feeling and be as close as possible to identical.

With the new sharp #11 Xacto blade proceed to carefully trim starting at the 3/16” mark 18.
on the spoke a tapered cut down the spoke to the rim using the stain color as reference
for the trim cut. (See Photo 28). I found it easier to hold the rim with my left hand using my

ngers gripping equally around the wheel rim and holding the wheel in my hand against
my chest. I trimmed all the left side of the spoke rst; then cut the right side with the blade

protruding up through the spokes. At the rim the trimmed angle cuts should be about 1/6
the width, or about 1/64” of the top surface of the spoke. When both sides of the spoke are
cut the result at the rim should be a small half extended octagon shape. (See Photo 28) The
eventual desired shape is to be a tapering oval from the hub to the rim.

Once one side of the wheel has all the spokes trim cut then do the other side. Once all the

cuts are completed then carefully using a small needle le round off and smooth the spoke

to its nal oval shape. All edges of the spokes from the oval cross section at the rim to the

rectangular cross section at the hub should be slightly rounded; no sharp edges only vary­ing radii.

Photo 28

Stain the led and sanded smoothed wheel and spokes making sure the upper part of the 19.
spoke adjacent to the wheel hub gets stained as well as the painted hub. The Dark Tan

paint works as a base coat color for the stain to match the spokes. You may have to use a
small brush to get into the tight areas. Wipe off excess stain and allow to dry completely.
Repeat Steps 18 & 19 for all wheels.

Using the 1/32” (#67) drill bit in a pin vise, drill holes through the rim centered between the 20.
spokes and down from the outside centered on the at surface of the wheel rim where the

tire will be located. Note: Do not drill two locations directly opposite each other; these will
have the cast rim joining plates added in the center. (See Photo 29)

Photo 29

Insert painted black #8 pins (tire bolts) in the rim holes from the inside of the wheel; 21.
twelve (12) in total and CA glue pins in place; cut and le the pin shafts ush with the out­side wheel rim surface and le smooth. Repeat Steps 20 & 21 for all wheels. Should a pin
loosen during cutting or ling operation just re-glue and allow glue to set.

Cut/score a line in the surface to the wheel rim sidewall centered between the spokes with 22.

no pin holes using the Xacto blade and stain. This represents the butt joint of the two rim
halves. Now add two (2) painted rim joining cleats (cast parts) to all four wheels centered
on the scored joint line. (See Photo 31)

Remove from WB-5 1/32” gasket material sheet the four (4) tires and carefully glue in place 23.

on all four wheels and mate the ends ush with a butt joint. Care must be taken to not cut

too short with a resulting gap in the tire.

Once all wheel tires have set; a nal detail must be hand carved using care and judgment 24.
to both the inside and outside edges of the plywood wheel rims. Again with a sharp #11
Xacto blade remove a slight arcing (scallop) cut between the painted black wheel bolt

(pin) heads and the spokes. There are no cuts in the section with the rim cleats. (See Pho­tos 30 & 31) This rim detail was typical for buggy wheels of the period to help reduce the

buildup of mud on the rim surface. When cutting with a sharp #11 blade start at a spoke or
bolt head and slowly cut using a slicing action with the blade and remove just a little at a

time and be sensitive to the grain hardness of the plywood and use the stain as a reference
gauge.

Photo 30

Once all wheel rims have been cut and stained; spray both sides of wheels with Clear Matte 25.
Finish and allow to thoroughly dry.

Slip all four wheels on their respective axle locations and the wheels should turn freely. 26.
Locate and remove from WB – 5 eight (8) large square nuts and index/glue two together to
represent the original wheel nut thickness. Index four of the thick square nuts and slip onto

ends of axle shafts to hold wheel in place and carefully glue. CAUTION: DO NOT glue the

hub to the axle shaft. Wheel should turn freely on the axle shaft when the glue is set on
the large square nuts.

Lastly, while looking down on the buckboard and carefully adjust wheels to be parallel to 27.
the platform sides by holding the wheel rim and bending slightly in the direction needed.

Then looking from the rear carefully adjust the camber (slight angle of the wheel) of all the
wheels angled in at the bottom of the wheels. Adjust the front and rear wheels for proper

camber; using the building square touching the inside edge of a spoke (See Photo 32). The
dish in the wheels formed a truss structure and the angle enables the spokes to be perpen­dicular to the ground for greater wheel strength.

Photo 31

Photo 32

Check the entire model for any nuts or bolt shafts that need trimming or ling at and 28.
touch up with Satin Black paint as needed.

Place the painted whip into the whip holder and the model is complete; sit back and ad-29.
mire.

Reference Photos

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Scale Model Kits Made in the USA!

America’s leading authority of historically accurate wooden model kits.

Scale Models of Legendary Wood Ships

HMS BOUNTY’S
LAUNCH

Length 17-1/4”
Height 14-3/4”
Beam 5-3/8”
Scale (1:16)

No. MS1850

DAPPER TOM

Length 24”
Height 18”
Scale 5/32” = 1 ft.

No. MS2003

HARRIET LANE

Length 19-1/2”
Height 9-1/2”
Scale 3/32” = 1 ft.

No. MS2010

MAYFLOWER,
1620

Length 22”
Height 17”
Scale 5/32” = 1 ft.

No. MS2020

BENJAMIN W.
LATHAM

Length 33”
Height 27”
Scale 1/4” = 1 ft.
(1:48)

No. MS2109

NIAGARA, U.S.
BRIG 1813

Length 36-1/2”
Height 24-1/2”·
Scale (1:64)

No. MS2240

FAIR AMERICAN

Length 26-1/2”
Height 22”
Scale 1/4” = 1 ft.
(1:48)

No. MS2015

PRIDE OF BALTI-
MORE II

Length32”
Height 22-1/2”
Scale 3/16” = 1 ft.
(1:64)

No. MS2120

SYREN, US BRIG
1803

Length 33”
Height 27”/ Scale
3/16” = 1 ft (1:64)

No. MS2260

SULTANA

Length 17”
Height 15” Scale
3/16” = 1ft. (1:64)

No. MS2016

BLUENOSE, CA-
NADIAN FISH-
ING SCHOONER

Length 32”
Height 26-1/2”
Scale 3/16” = 1 ft
(1:64)

No. MS2130

U.S.N. PICKET
BOAT NO. 1,
1864

Length 22-1/2”
Width 5”/Scale
1:24 (1/2” = 1
foot)

No. MS2261

CHARLES W.
MORGAN,
WHALING BARK

Length 25” Scale
3/16” = 1 ft.
(1:64)

No. MS2140

CONFEDERACY

Length 35”
Height 8-1/2”
Scale 3/16” = 1ft

No. MS2262

RATTLESNAKE,
PRIVATEER, 1780

Length 28”
Height 18”
Scale 3/16” = 1 ft.
(1:64)

No. MS2028

PINNACE

Length 11-3/4”
Width 2-1/2”
Scale 1/2” = 1 ft.

(1:16)

No. MS1458

GUNBOAT
PHILADELPHIA

New from Bob
Crane, designer of
USN Picket Boat
No. 1

No. MS2263

EMMA C.
BERRY LOBSTER
SMACK

Length 26-3/8”
Height 28-1/2”
Scale 3/8” = 1 ft
(1:32)

No. MS2150

18TH CENTURY
LONGBOAT

Length 11-3/4”,
Scale 1/4” = 1 ft.

No. MS1457

WILLIE L. BEN-
NETT, SKIPJACK

Length 24”
Height 16”
Scale 3/8” = 1ft.
(1:32)

No. MS2032

ARMED VIR-
GINIA SLOOP

ength 31”/Height
18”/Width 8-1/4”
Scale 1/4” = 1 ft.
(1:48)

No. MS2160

PHANTOM, NEW
YORK PILOT
BOAT

Length 13-1/2”
Height 13-1/2”
Scale 1/8” = 1 ft.

No. MS2027

USS ESSEX

Length 27”
Height 8”
Scale 5/32” = 1 ft.
(1:76.8)

No. MS2041

NEW BEDFORD
WHALEBOAT, C.
1850-1870

Length 24”
Height 4-5/8”
Scale 3/4” = 1 ft.
(1:16)

No. MS2033

GLAD TIDINGS,
PINKY
SCHOONER

Length 29-1/2”
Height 23” /Scale
1/2” = 1ft. (1:24)

No. MS2180

FLYING FISH

Length 36”
Height 22-1/2”
Scale 1/8” =1 ft.
(1:96)

No. MS2018

USS CONSTITU-
TION, 1797

Length 48”
Height 32”/Width
16”
Scale 5/32” = 1 ft.
(1:76.8)

No. MS2040

CHAPERON,
STERNWHEELER

Length
34-1/2”/Beam
7-1/2”/Height
12”/ Scale (1:48)

No. MS2190

B

Y

M

O

D

E

L

S

H

I

P

W

A

Y

S

1:16 & 1:24 Scale Models of War Weapons and Vehicles

The most trusted name in authentic, historic war-related cannon and vehicle model kits.

CIVIL WAR LIMBER

Length 10” · Width 4” · Height 3-1/4”
Scale 1:16 · Weight 1 lb.

No. MS4002

GATLING GUN

Length 7-7/8” · Width 3-3/4”
Height 3-1/4” · Scale 1:16

No. MS4010

NAPOLEON CANNON, 12–POUNDER

Length 10” · Width 4” · Height 3-1/4”

Scale 1:16 · Weight 1 lb. 4 oz.

No. MS4003

WHITWORTH 12–POUNDER

Length 10” · Width 4” · Height 3-1/4”

Scale 1:16 Weight 1 lb. 4 oz.

No. MS4001

NIEUPORT 28

Wingspan 20” • Fuselage 15-3/4”
Scale 1:16 • Weight: 1.9 lb.

No. MA1002

CURTISS JN4D ‘JENNY’

Wingspan 32-1/2” •
Fuselage Length
20-1/2” • Scale 1:16

No. MA1010

ALBATROS D.VA, RED
BARON’S AIRPLANE’

Wingspan 22-1/2” • Fuse­lage 18-1/4” Scale 1:16 •

Weight 1 lb. 14 oz.

No. MA1001

THE WRIGHT FLYER, 1903

Wingspan 30” • Length 15”

Scale 1:16

No. MA1020

SOPWITH CAMEL F.1, 1917

Wingspan 21” • Fuselage 14–1/16”

Scale 1:16 (3/4” = 1 ft.)

No. MA1030

JAMES CANNON, 6–POUNDER

Length 8-1/4” · Width 4-1/2” · Height 4”

Scale 1:16 · Weight 1 lb. 4 oz.

No. MS4007

PARROTT RIFLE

Length 8” · Width 4-1/2” · Height
3-1/3” Scale 1:16 · Weight 1 lb. 4 oz.

No. MS4008

CAISSON, AMMUNITION CARRIAGE

Length 8-1/4” · Width 4” · Height

3-1/2” Scale 1:16 · Weight 1 lb.

No. MS4009

BATTERY FORGE

Length 7-7/8” · Width 3-3/4” · Height
3-1/4” · Scale 1:16

No. MS4012

MOUNTAIN HOWITZER

Length 5” · Width 3-1/2” · Height
2-3/4” · Scale 1:16

No. MS4014

DOUBLE BARREL CANNON

Length 7-3/4” · Width 3-3/4”
Height 3-3/4” ·
Scale 1:16

No. MS4015

ORDNANCE RIFLE

Length 8” · Width 3-3/4”
Height 3-1/4” · Scale 1:16

No. MS4013

1:16 Scale Models

of Vintage Aircraft

The ultimate collection

of renowned aircraft

model kits.

18th Century Naval Cannon Models

CONCORD

STAGECOACH

Length 13-3/4”

Height 8-3/4”

Scale (1:12)

No. MS6001

BUCKBOARD WAGON

Length 9-3/4” Height 5-1/4”

Scale (1:12)

No. MS6004

CONESTOGA
WAGON

Length 19”
Height 9”
Width 6”
Scale (1:12)

No. MS6002

COFFEE WAGON

Length 5-7/8”

Width 4-1/2”

Height 4-1/2”

Scale 1:16

No. MS4016

DOCTOR’S BUGGY

Length 5-1/2”
Height 5”
Width 8”
Scale (1:12)

No. MS6003

CIVIL WAR LIMBER SIGNATURE SERIES

Length 10” · Width 4” · Height 3-1/4”
Scale 1:16

No. MS4002SS

NAPOLEON CANNON, 12-POUNDER
BRASS BARREL SIGNATURE SERIES

Length 8-1/4” · Width 4” · Height
3-1/2” · Scale 1:16

No. MS4003SS

32–POUNDER CARRONADE

L 8-1/4” W 4-1/2” H 3-1/2” · Scale 1:24

No. MS4004

NAVAL DECK CANNON

L 8-1/4” W 5-1/4” H 3” Scale 1:24

No. MS4005

18TH CENTURY SEA MORTAR

L 4” W 3” H 2-3/4” Scale 1:16

No. MS4011

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CIVIL WAR RUCKER AMBULANCE

Length 8” · Width 4-1/2” Height

6-1/8” · Scale 1:16

No. MS4017

1:12 Scale Models of Horse-drawn Vehicles

Turn of the century wagon model kits that are second to none.