Model Shipways 28 User Manual

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INSTRUCTION MANUAL

NIEUPORT 28

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INSTRUCTION MANUAL

WORLD WAR I FRENCH FIGHTER AIRCRAFT - 1917

NIEUPORT 28

INSTRUCTION MANUAL PREPARED BY KENNETH H. GOLDMAN

SCALE: 3/4” = 1’0” (1:16) • Kit No. MA1050

Wingspan: 508 mm (20 inches)

Fuselage Length: 400 mm (15-3/4 inches)

HISTORY

The French-built NIEUPOR Nieuport, founded by Edouard de Niéport at Issy-les-Moulinaux in 1910. Many designs were developed including the first Type 10, then Type 12,17, 24 and 27. The Type 28 was the most streamlined plane and the last of the Nieuport family of single-seater aircraft. First flown in prototype form in June 1917, it was a completely new design, albeit based on experience gained with the earlier Type 27. Although French-built, the NIEUPORT 28 served in the air services of all the Allied nations and on all fronts. It was the first fighter aircraft flown in combat by the 27th, 94th, 95th, and 147th Squadrons of the United States Air Service (American Expeditionary Forces). 297 aircraft were received by the squadrons. On April 14, 1918, the aircraft’s second armed mission, Lieutenants Alan Winslow, and Douglas Campbell (the first American-trained ace) of the 94th Aero Squadron both shot down an enemy aircraft. The NIEUPORT 28 was flown by many American aces, among them the “Ace of Aces” Captain Eddie Rickenbacker, with 26 victories. It was a favorite because of its speed and maneuverability.

The NIEUPORT 28 has a wingspan of 26 feet 9 inches and has a maximum weight of 1625 pounds (1172 pounds empty weight). It flies at a speed of 122 mph, has a range of 248 miles, endurance of 1-1/2 hours, and the service ceiling is 17,000 feet. The aircraft is a single-seater and is powered by a 160 HP Gnôme-Rhône Monosoupape 9N, 9 cylinder, air cooled rotary engine. The plane has no throttle and once started, the Gnome rotary engine runs on full all the time. The pilot controlled the plane’s speed by turning off and on individual or groups of cylinders. There is no oil pan to re-circulate the castor oil lubrication. After circulating through the engine, the oil simply sprayed out into the air. One can only imagine the effects on pilots after inhaling a mist of pure castor oil for an hour! Armament consists of two Vickers 0.30 caliber synchronized machine guns.

A number of NIEUPORT 28’s have been restored and can be found in aircraft museums. The Smithsonian Institution’s Garber Preservation Facility in Suitland, Maryland outside Washington, DC, has recently restored (summer 2000) a NIEUPORT 28 C-1 for display in the National Air and Space Museum.

T 28 biplane was manufactured by the Nieuport company - Société des Etablissements

INDEX

WORLD WAR I FRENCH FIGHTER AIRCRAFT

NIEUPORT 28 - 1917

The NIEUPORT 28 model plans and kit were completed in 2000. The model was designed for Model Airways by Microfusioni - modellisimo of Milan, Italy, owned by Luigi Volonté and son Bruno. The designer, Luigi Volonté, a former World War II fighter pilot, also designed the 1:16 scale German fighter Albatros D.Va, the first aircraft kit manufactured by Model Airways. Model plans and original Instructions in Italian were developed by Luigi Volonté. The text was rewritten in English and expanded by Kenneth H. Goldman. The model was built by the designer, Luigi Volonté.

Before You Begin

The NIEUPORT 28 kit is intended as a structural, non-flying, model without any fabric covering. It is about as close as you can come to being able to hold the real thing in your hand. Most every detail of the real aircraft has been included as model scale permits. Britannia castings and laser-cut wood fittings eliminate creating many parts from scratch, however, some final finishing is required before they are suitable for the model.

Before starting the model, carefully examine the kit and study the plans. Every effort has been made to present the construction stages in a clear, logical sequence. Nevertheless, it is recommended that you think several steps ahead and check the plans accordingly during assembly. This will help clarify what you are doing now and will ensure proper fit of the sub-assemblies later. The instructions will help, but a thorough knowledge of the plans at the outset is essential.

Determine if all the listed parts are present. Handling them will produce a better understanding of the kit’s requirements and will help you visualize how every piece will look on the completed model. To avoid losing small fittings and hardware, sort them into labeled containers with lids to keep the parts in and dirt out.

Although each Stage in the instructions results in a completed sub-assembly, it is recommended that you begin at Stage 1 and proceed in order to the finish. Certain modeling techniques are described in full when they first appear in the sequence and only are referred to in subsequent steps. Always complete one construction stage before moving to the next. If things go awry, take a break, then consider doing them over.

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The Model Airways’ NIEUPORT 28 kit is manufactured to a scale of 1:16 or 3/4” equal to one foot. In addition to the Figures that appear throughout this instruction manual, three full-size plan sheets (D01,D02, D03) are provided. Each plan sheet is drawn to the actual size of the model except for some areas that have been enlarged to better show detail. Note that full-size Plan D04 (the propeller) is included in this instruction booklet.

Dimensions can be lifted directly off the full-size plans by using draftsman dividers, a strip of paper laid on the plans on which you make at dot indicating each end of a part, or simply by laying wood strips directly on the plans and marking where to cut them.

The following table gives inch equivalents and compares full-size dimensions with scale model inches and millimeters:

Full-Size Inches Scale Inches Scale Millimeters

1/4” 1/64” 0.40mm 1/2” 1/32” 0.79mm 3/4” 3/64” 1.19mm 1” 1/16” 1.59mm 1-1/4” 5/64” 1.98mm 1-1/2” 3/32” 2.38mm 1-3/4” 7/64” 2.78mm 2” 1/8” 3.17mm 2-1/4” 9/64” 3.57mm 2-1/2” 5/32” 3.97mm 2-3/4” 11/64” 4.37mm 3” 3/16” 4.76mm 6” 3/8” 9.53mm 9” 12” 3/4” 19.05mm

A parts list is included in each of the construction stages, noting the parts required for that particular stage. A MAS-

ACKAGING P

TER P rate from these instructions) is provided that lists the quantities included in the kit. For wood strips, sheets, rod, wire, tubing, and rigging, one or several pieces are pro vided in the kit as noted on the master packaging parts list. These are identified both by size and by the names of the air craft parts that will be made from them. This material must be cut to length or shape according to plan dimensions.

9/16”

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14.29mm

TS LIST (sepa-

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Wood strips and sheets of solid basswood or birch plywood are supplied in the kit. Generally, these parts will be referred to by their size as well as their general part number. Sort and label the wood in the kit by dimensions to save time. After selecting and cutting what you need, return the remaining stock to the proper thickness and wood type pile. For best results, cut wood strip lengths a little long and then sand the ends to achieve the exact length and fit. Even though Model Airways supplies enough extra wood to complete the model before running out, it is recommended that you plan to measure and cut the required parts so as to minimize waste. That way you are covered if you make a mistake.

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These parts will require final finishing before mounting on the model. Remove mold joint flash with a #10 or a #11 hobby blade, then file or sand with fine sandpaper. Some of the holes through which other parts fit, such as the small eyes of a turnbuckle, may have filled in during the casting process. Carefully clean these out using a drill bit or reamer and check the fit of the other parts. To ensure good glue and paint bonds to these parts, wash off the remaining traces of the mold release agent. A spray of ammonia window cleaner and gentle brushing with an old soft-bristle toothbrush does the job

. Thoroughly rinse the parts and

nicely allow them to dry.

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On the real aircraft the rigging is 1/8” or 5/32” diameter stranded steel wire. For the kit, however single diameter is provided to make it easier to rig. To reduce or eliminate slackening of the rigging line due to weather

changes after you have finished your model, pre-stretch the line by dampening it and hanging it with a weight on one end

. I prefer to leave the line hanging

to dry and cut what I need, as I need it, always re-attaching the weight.

, metal-gray thread in a

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The following tools and supplies are recommended for the construction process. Modelers who have built before may have their own favorites.

Knives and saws

1. Hobby knife with No. 11 and No. 10 blades

2. Razor saw or jeweler’s saw

B. Files

Set of needle files Flat, fine-tooth, mill bastard file (for fuel tanks) Round riffler file

C. Clamps and Pins

1. Assorted Bulldog clips

2. Wooden clothespins (craft shops carry small versions)

3. Rubber bands

4. Package of push-pins or T-pins

D. Boring Tools

1. Set of miniature drills (#60 to #80)

2. Pin vise

E. Miscellaneous

1. Tack hammer

2. Tweezers (a few)

3. Small fine pointed scissors

4. Miniature pliers

a. small round b. flat nose

5. Wire cutters

6. Mechanics rule graduated in 64ths of an inch and millimeters

F. Sandpaper

#120 aluminum oxide paper for shaping wood parts #200 wet/dry silicon carbide paper for intermediate sanding #400 wet/dry silicon carbide paper for fittings and finishing

G. Glue

s glue

White glue or the yellow carpenter for wood parts. Medium viscosity cyanoacrylate(CA) glue(Super Glue) for metal parts, metal to wood, and rapid assembly of wood parts.

3. OPTIONAL Cyanoacrylate De-Bonder (just in case you have to take something apart) Cyanoacrylate Accelerator for an instant bond. Five-minute epoxy provides extra strength for gluing fittings. Water-thin cyanoacrylate glue to bond fittings by capillary action

’

H. Building Board

A soft, but stiff board such as acoustic ceiling tile or insulation wallboard to easily take straight pins for holding parts during assembly. This soft board should be nailed or glued to a hard board so it will be flat. You can use a table, but a portable board is good for turning it around to make the work easier

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Build the wings, fin and rudder, stabilizer and elevator directly on Plan D02. Place the plan on your building board and cover the plan with waxed paper or plastic wrap. Be careful applying glue, especially super glue. Although the waxed paper or plastic wrap protects the plan somewhat, you could accidentally glue the protective sheet to the model parts, or even to the plan itself.

An alternative, if you have a dedicated modeling area, is to lay a sheet of glass over the full-size plan sheet and build directly on the glass, using tape and weights to hold the parts in position. If you use this method, watch out for sharp edges on the glass.

board. This will prevent your gluing the formed part to the work board. The part will end up glued to the paper, but this easily sands off during the final finishing. Some people prefer to use waxed paper to prevent the part’s sticking, but if you use heat against the jig, you will melt some of the wax into the laminated part.

Begin by soaking the wood in cold water for 5 or 10 minutes, then pat it dry ing at one end of the jig, pin the first strip tightly against the jig, applying heat when needed, then move along bending and pinning the wood to shape as you go. Cut off the excess strip at the end of the run.

Go back to the end where you started and brush on a thin coat of white glue or carpenter’s glue and apply the second strip of wood, pulling and replacing pins as you go. Applying heat at this point will make an almost instant bond between the wood strips. Proceed in this manner until you have built up five wood strips and then allow the part to dry thoroughly, after which the formed shape will be permanent.

Carefully remove the part from its jig and sand off the excess glue and paper. The final step is to sand the correct profile as required by the instructions and full-size plans.

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. Start-

When dry, another application of shellac or your favorite varnish will complete the process.

Britannia castings parts may be left polished or painted a steel or gunmetal color. Other fittings, such as turnbuckles, can be painted black or dark gray.

arying the tones on the various parts

V will add a nice contrast to the finished model.

The distinctive woven plywood “peach basket” seat back is provided as a Britannia casting to simplify construction. You will need to paint this, after gluing it to the seat, to give it an appropriate wood finish. First paint the seat back with a very light tan. When this is thoroughly dry, dry-brush a light golden brown, allowing much of the tan to show through, then finish off with a russet brown wash to accentuate the pattern. A light coat of varnish will then give you the desired wood effect.

After you have shaped and finish sanded the laminated basswood propeller, you can achieve a more authentic look by staining it golden mahogany and then building up two or three thinned layers of varnish or shellac.

Sand all wood surfaces with 400-grit dry sandpaper and thoroughly wipe off all dust. A tack rag would be helpful.

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Before commencing each stage of construction, have all the parts for that stage identified and ready to use. It helps to lay each part on its corresponding location on the full-size plan to facilitate identification as you proceed. Lightly sand wood parts as required to remove any fuzziness and prepare the castings parts as noted above.

To achieve maximum accuracy in your model you must fabricate bent laminated parts for wing tips and the empennage.

anganyika

flexibility of the supplied wood strips - especially when wet - makes this relatively easy included in the kit. Because some of the curves are relatively tight, you may need to apply heat to the wood as you wrap it around a jig. angled tip of a 20-30 watt soldering iron. Firmly af a sheet of ordinary typing paper or newspaper sandwiched between the jig and the

This may be done with the

fix each jig, to a work board with

The necessary jigs are

The

With one exception, your NIEUPORT 28 model need not be painted or finished at all. However, it is recommended that you seal the wood parts and Britannia castings for protection. Due to the intri cacy of the finished model, this is best done as you go. My personal preference is to use 3-pound cut shellac, thinned 50% with denatured alcohol. fast, so you can keep working, and a second coat can be applied if you want more shine.

light tan stain on all wooden parts

A will help to make the entire structure uni form in color wood will resist staining, and any end grain will stain darker than the rest. achieve an even application of stain, carefully scrape off any excess glue, then seal the wood - especially the end grain with thinned shellac. light application of stain, using a soft artist’s brush, should give an even finish.

. However

After this is dry

This dries

, glue spots on the

, a

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The Gnome-Rhone Monosoupape Type 9N rotary engine is essentially indepen dent of the rest of the aircraft. It slips onto a fixed crankshaft around which the engine rotates. Super glue and/or epoxy should be used to assemble the parts.

Care must be exercised with the many small parts. Refer to Figures 1/1 through 1/13. For clarity, drawings may show a single cylinder. It is a simple matter to repeat the assembly for the other eight cylinders. engine is pretty straightforward. The key to success is to carefully clean up all of the castings and then to dry fit every thing before applying glue.

The actual assembly of the

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PARTS LIST FOR STAGE 1:

GR9-01 Crankshaft mount 1 4mm diameter x 5mm brass tube GR9-06 Camshaft box 1 Britannia casting GR9-07 Crankcase covers 2 Britannia castings GR9-08 Crankcase 1 Britannia casting GR9-09 Distributor 1 Britannia casting GR9-02 Front propeller flange 1 Britannia casting GR9-04 Rear propeller flange 1 Britannia casting GR9-03 Propeller (laminated) 3 Parts of laser-cut basswood 1/8” thick J001 Propeller jig 1 1/4” X 20 bolt and nut GR9-05 Timing gear cover 1 Britannia casting GR9-10 Cylinders 9 Britannia castings GR9-11 Cylinder heads 9 Britannia castings GR9-12 Exhaust valve lifters 9 Britannia castings GR9-13 Spark plugs 18 Britannia castings WP—— Ignition wires 9 32-gauge black iron wires

Crankcase; camshaft box; distributor:

Assemble the engine around the crankshaft mount(GR9-01). This will ensure that the parts line up properly. Be careful not to get any glue inside the crankshaft mounting tube.

Begin by attaching the distributor(GR9-09) to the crankshaft mounting tube(GR9-01) so that the tube end is flush with the gear side of the distributor. Slip one of the crankcase covers(GR9-07) onto the tube so that the detail side faces the distributor and line it up so that the nine rings on the distributor point between pairs of bolt heads. Next, slip on the crankcase(GR9-08) and the other crankcase cover. Glue the crankcase to the rear cover so that the drilled tabs on the distributor will line up between each pair of cylinders(Fig.1/13). Before you glue on the front crankcase cover, align its bolt heads to match up with the ones on the rear cover.

Add the camshaft box(GR9-06) on the front of the crankcase, aligning the pegs dead center on each piston, slide the timing gear cover(GR9-05) onto the tube and then glue these parts together. Next, slip the nine cylinders(GR9-10) over the pistons and glue them in place, paying attention to the orientation of the spark plug ports. From the pilot’ the outer end of the cylinders, in the plane of the engine, facing to the right. Glue in the spark plugs(GR9-13).

Attach the cylinder heads(GR9-1 peg on each lines up with its twin on the camshaft box. Make any needed adjustments to fit the exhaust valve lifters(GR9-12) between the pegs. Paint, weather should you wish to do so.

Complete this step by attaching the ignition wires(WP———

-) from the distributor to the spark plugs, referring to Figures 1/11-1/13. Cut nine 55mm lengths of wire. Thread each wire through one of the nine tabs on the distributor so that equal lengths emer itself at the ring, then run one end to each of the spark plugs at that cylinder and attach as in Figure 1/13. Trim off any excess wire.

ge from each side. Twist the wire twice around

s point of view

1) to the cylinders so that the

, and highlight the motor

, they are at

Propeller group:

Referring to actual-size Plan D04 in the instruction booklet, laminate the three propeller layers(GR9-03), using the provided bolt-and-nut jig(J001) to properly align the parts. Once the glue is dry, remove the bolt and file and sand the propeller to its refined shape. The front of the laminated propeller is stepped to guide you in filing the correct shape. The back is then shaped to follow the front. Begin with the overall lengthwise curve, then proceed to the cross-sectional shaping. Note that the front surface is slightly convex and the back surface is concave. Take your time and check the cross sections on the plan often. When you are satisfied with the result, apply at one thin coat of varnish or shellac. After the first coat is dry, lightly sand it with #400 paper to remove any grain raised by the varnish, then apply a gold-mahogany stain. When dry, follow this with a second coat of varnish or shellac. You can add a third coat of varnish, without sanding first, if that looks better to you.

Paint, if desired, the front(GR9-02) and rear(GR9-04) propeller flanges before fitting them to the propeller. Referring to Figure 1/7, line up the molded-on front and rear bolt heads/nuts before gluing the flanges to the propeller onto the crankshaft mount. If necessary, file the end of the brass tube so that the propeller assembly snugs up to the timing gear cover

, then, glue it in place.

. Dry fit this assembly

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The upper wing is built in two separate sections that will be joined later at the aircraft’s center line. Refer to Figures 2/1 through 2/15 for the number and location of the parts. Ribs are numbered out from the centerline. The following procedures will need to be repeated for the right and left upper wings.

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PARTS LIST FOR STAGE 2:

Ni28-001 Ribs #1 4 laser-cut wood parts 3/64 thick Ni28-002 Ribs #2 2 laser-cut wood parts 3/64 thick Ni28-003 Ribs #3-10, 12 18 laser-cut wood parts 3/64 thick Ni28-004 Ribs #11 2 laser-cut wood parts 3/64 thick Ni28-005 Ribs #13 2 laser-cut wood parts 3/64 thick Ni28-006 Ribs #14 2 laser-cut wood parts 3/64 thick Ni28-007 Ni28-008 Ni28-009 False ribs #B 2 laser-cut wood parts 3/64thick Ni28-017 Ni28-018 Compression bar 4 Britannia metal Ni28-020 Joint pin plates 4 Britannia metal WP3688-24 Rib caps .02 x 5/64 wood strips WP3688-24 Leading edge cover 7 .02 x 5/64 wood strips WP3631-24 Front and rear spars 4 1/8 x 1/8 wood strips WP3640-24 Leading edge 2 3/16 x 3/16 wood strips WP3620-24 Trailing edge 2 1/16 x 1/8 wood strips WP3202-40 Wing tips (laminated) 5 .02 x 5/32 Tanganyika wood strips WP3202-40 Center trailing edge

WP5101-24 Joint pins 2 1/8 x 1/4 wood dowels W042 Turnbuckles 28 Britannia castings WP1205 Rigging cable 7” Metal-gray thread J002 R-L Upper wing tips jigs 2 laser-cut wood parts 5/32 thick J003 Upper center

Wing ribs; cap strips:

Begin by laminating two parts Ni28-001 to form each Rib #1. Take the required lengths of the rib cap strips(WP3688-24) from full-size Plan D02. (Note that the rib cross sectional drawings are double size and reduce your measurements accordingly if you refer to these.) The rib cap strip edges will be flush with the sides of laminated ribs #1, but they must overlap the other ribs equally to each side. The easiest way to accomplish this is to pin each rib on its side, through the lightening holes, then slip a couple of pieces of .02î thickness wood strip between the rib and the assembly board. This will automatically set the required overlap when you glue on the cap strips. Hold the cap strips in place with pins while the glue dries.

Inserting the spars; leading edges; trailing edges:

Using full-size Plan D02, cut the front and rear spars(WP3631-24) to the required lengths. Carefully taper them from where they pass through rib #12 out toward the wing tip where the cross section should be reduced to 5/64 x 5/64. This should be done evenly from all four sides.

Next, adjust the spar holes in the ribs so the spars slip through without binding. Pin the assembly down, making sure everything is square, and glue the spars in place. Finally, cut the leading(WP3640-24) and trailing(WP3620-24) edges to size and glue them in place against the ribs.

After the glue dries thoroughly, unpin the structure. Using a long strip of sandpaper,

Ribs #15 2 laser-cut wood parts 3/64 thick False ribs #A 2 laser-cut wood parts 3/64 thick

Nose ribs 30 laser-cut wood parts 3/64 thick

(laminated) 5 .02 x 5/32 Tanganyika wood strips

trailing edge jig 1 laser

-cut wood part 5/32 thick

about 11”, affixed to the same length straight piece of wood, sand the leading and trailing edges to the correct cross section. This technique will ensure a uniform shape.

Wing tips and center trailing edges;

false ribs:

Here is where you will likely be expand ing your skills, actually making shaped plywood by bending and gluing wood strips around a form. The procedure is the same for all four parts. Secure jigs J002 and J003 to a paper covered board. Referring to Plan D02 and Figures 2/7 and 2/8, cut five lengths of Tanganyika wood strips(WP3202-40) for each wing tip. Bend and glue the strips as described above, pinning the sandwich against a jig to establish the correct shape as the glue dries.

Remove the wing tips and center trailing edges from the jigs and shape them as necessary for installation on the wings. Note that Plan D02 shows mitered, not butt, joints where the wing tips are glued in place. This provides greater strength to the glue joint. Glue the false ribs(Ni28008, Ni28-009) in place.

Nose ribs; leading edge cover:

Using Plan D02 as a guide, glue the nose ribs(Ni28-017) in place. After the glue is dry, a light sanding, if needed, with the sanding paddle will ensure both ribs and nose ribs perfectly line up on the upper wing surface.

Glue the eight strips of the leading edge cover(WP3688-24) in place, proceeding from the leading edge toward the forward spar. After the glue is dry, sand the ends to conform to the wing’ cover to a smooth surface. [The kit sim plifies the rear edge of the leading edge cover by leaving it straight across. In the actual aircraft, this was shaped into a for ward, flattened arc between each pair of ribs, for an overall scalloped effect. If the advanced modeler wants to make this modification, be careful that the arcs have a uniform amplitude.]

Compression bars; rigging:

Referring to Figure 2/10 and Plan D02, use a bent pin, working in from both sides, to carefully bore 0.5mm(.020î) holes through ribs #1, 4, 6, 8, 13 and 15 for the rigging(WP1205) to pass through against the spars.

Precisely align the compression bars(Ni28-018) and glue them in place.

s shape and sand the

Next, tie turnbuckles(W042) where indicated to the compression bars and to the holes in ribs #6 and #15. You will use 14 turnbuckles for each half of the upper wing. Begin each run of the rigging line by tying one end to a turnbuckle and permanently affixing it with a drop of super glue. Run the line through the holes as indicated, ending through the second turnbuckle. Affix a small weight on the line to keep it taut (Fig. 2/13-D) and seize thread around the line at that point. Apply a drop of super glue there and at each place the line passes through a rib. Cut off the excess line and repeat the procedure until all of these alignment lines are in place. Note that the lines connect directly to rib #1, without a turnbuckle.

Joining the wing halves: This step requires patience in order to get the correct 1.5

degrees dihedral when joining the upper wing halves and a little

extra care to avoid making your fingers part of the assembly Begin by taping a 5mm high riser block, cut from spare wood strips, to rib #12 on each wing half. [Note that this varies slightly from Fig. 2/15.] Next, insert the two joint pins (WP5101-24) through ribs #1. There should be just enough play so that, with the top of ribs #1 touching, the center of the assembled wing can sag to the table top. Super glue the topside contact edges togeth er.

When the glue is hard, carefully turn the assembly over and run a drop of super glue into the gap to lock the joint pins in place and to strengthen the joint. Finally, shape a shim to fit the gap(Fig.2/14), without prying it apart, and glue this in place with white or yellow glue. After everything is dry, finish off the wing by sanding the joint as needed and affixing the four joint plates(Ni28-020).

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The lower wing will also be constructed in right and left halves, but there will be no dihedral when they are attached to the fuselage. The ailerons are built integral to the wing structure and will then be cut free to operate. This ensures that it all lines up perfectly. Refer to Figures 3/1 through 3/10 for the number and location of the parts. As before, ribs are numbered out from the centerline. The following procedures will need to be repeated for the right and left lower wings.

PARTS LIST FOR STAGE 3:

WP3688-24 Rib caps .02 x 5/64 wood strips Ni28-021 Ribs #1 4 laser-cut wood parts 3/64 thick Ni28-022 Ribs #2 2 laser-cut wood parts 3/64 thick Ni28-023 Ribs #3, 5 4 laser-cut wood parts 3/64 thick Ni28-024 Ribs #4, 6 4 laser-cut wood parts 3/64 thick Ni28-025 Ribs #7, 8, 10, 11 8 laser-cut wood parts 3/64 thick Ni28-026 Ribs #9 2 laser-cut wood parts 3/64 thick Ni28-027 Ribs #12 2 laser-cut wood parts 3/64 thick Ni28-028 Ni28-029 Ribs #14 -

WP3626-24 Front and rear spars 2 3/32 x 1/8 wood strips WP3202-40 Wing tips

WP3202-40

WP3640-24 Leading edge 2 3/16 x 3/16 wood strips WP3620-24 WP3688-24 WP40264 Aileron torque bars 2 5/64 x 9 1/4 brass rod Ni28-033 Aileron hinges 6 Britannia castings Ni28-034 Ni28-018 Compression bars 2 Britannia casting W042 WP1205 Rigging cable 7’ Metal-gray thread J004 R-L Lower wing tip

J005 R-L Lower center

Ribs #13

ailerons only 2 laser-cut wood parts 3/64 thick

(laminated) 5 .02 x 5/32 Tanganyika wood strips Center trailing edges (lam.) 5 .02 x 5/32 Tanganyika wood strips

railing edge

T Leading edge cover 5 .02 x 5/64 wood strips

Lower wing joint

urnbuckles

jigs

trailing edge jigs1 laser-cut wood part 5/32 thick

2 laser

2 1/16 x 1/8 wood strips

16 Britannia castings

1 laser

-cut wood parts 3/64 thick

1 Britannia casting

-cut wood part 5/32 thick

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ing ribs; cap strips:

Prepare the lower wing ribs(Ni28-021-029) and cap strips(WP3688-24) exactly the way you did for the upper wing. Begin by laminating two parts Ni28-021 to form each rib #1. Take the required lengths of the cap strips from full-size Plan D02.

Wing tips and center trailing edges:

The technique is the same as for the likewise laminated parts for the upper wing, using five Tanganyika wood strips(WP3202-40). In this case, use jigs J004 and J005 and refer to Plan D02. As before, shape the laminated parts as necessary for installation on the wings.

Inserting the spars; leading and trailing edges; aileron torque bars; aileron hinges:

Referring to full-size Plan D02, cut the front and rear spars (WP3626-24) to length and shape them as required. Adjust the spar holes in the ribs so the spar slips through without binding, then cut and insert the aileron torque bar(WP40264), adding rib #14 between ribs #6 and 7, and the hinges(Ni28-033) between ribs #7 and 8, #9 and 10, and #12 and 13. These should turn freely on the torque bar trude through rib #1. Pin the assembly down, making sure every thing is square, then glue the spars in place.

The torque bar should be glued only to ribs #7-14 and be able to turn without binding in the other ribs. Do not glue the hinges to the rear spar. This will be done after the aileron is cut free from the wing and sanded to its final shape.

Finally, cut the leading (WP3640-24)and trailing(WP3620-24) edges to size and glue them in place against the ribs, then add the laminated wing tips and center trailing edge as for the upper wing. After the glue dries thoroughly, unpin the structure. Using a long strip of sandpaper (about 11”) affixed to the same length straight

aanndd A

The leading edge, spars and torque bar will pro

Aiilleerroonnss

piece of wood, sand the leading and trailing edges to the correct cross section. This technique will ensure a uniform shape.

Leading edge cover:

Glue the four strips of the leading edge cover(WP3688-24) in place, proceeding from the leading edge to the forward spar After the glue is dry, sand the ends to conform to the wing’s shape and sand the cover to a smooth surface. [Once again, the advanced modeler may want to scallop the rear edge of the cover.]

Separating the aileron:

Referring to Figures 3/4 and 3/5, cut through the wing tip and ribs #7-13 between the rear spar and the torque bar, and through the trailing edge between ribs #6 and #14. A razor saw is recommended for this. Remove the aileron by sliding the torque bar from ribs #1-6.

Referring to Figure 3/5, sand the aileron

ribs to shape. Next, re-insert the torque bar through ribs #1-6. Do not glue it. Finally, glue the aileron hinges(Ni28-033) to the rear spar where indicated.

Rigging:

Referring to Figures 3/9 and 3/10 and

Plan D02, use the bent pin again to bore .5mm(.02î) holes through ribs #1, 4, 6, 9 and 12 for the rigging to pass through against the spars.

Insert the compression bar(Ni28-018) between ribs #9 and #10 on the lower wing so it precisely aligns with the compression bar on the upper wing and glue it in place.

Each run of rigging line(WP1205) between the solid ribs is attached at only one end to a turnbuckle(W042). You will use eight turnbuckles for each half of the lower wing. The easiest way to run this rigging is to tie off the two turnbuckles to the inner side of rib #9, then run continu-

ous lengths of line from those turnbuckles to rib #1. Each time the line emer through a rib, thread it through both holes on a turnbuckle (instead of tying it off) and proceed to the end of the run. Put a small weight on the excess line to ensure it is taut, then glue the line in place at rib #1 and cut off the excess line. Thereafter, slide the loose turnbuckles against the appropriate ribs and glue them and the line in place. Proceed more or less the same way from the compression bar out to rib #12. A daub of paint, matching the turnbuckle, placed over the rigging line on each turnbuckle will hide the line, if you choose the continuous run method of rigging.

Joining the wing halves:

Referring to Figure 3/7, glue the lower wing joint(Ni28-034) to the right and left lower wing halves, positioning casting tight to the front spar. The finished wing should line up straight across the leading edge and with no dihedral.

ges

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As you did with the ailerons on the lower wing, the horizontal stabilizer and the vertical stabilizer (or fin) will be built with the elevator and the rudder attached and then cut loose. Reference Figures 4/1 through 4/5 while you construct them on full-size Plan D02.

mppeennnnaaggee

PARTS LIST FOR STAGE 4:

center of the elevator leading edge. Finally, cut the indicated lengths from the 1/4” aluminum tape(WP1860). Carefully fold the strip lengthwise in half, adhesive side inside, then trim to 3/16” wide and bend the hinges. They pass through the slot created by gluing the pivot rod to the elevator spar and are glued around the stabilizer spar only

WP3673-24 Leading edge brace 2 5/64 x 5/64 wood strips WP3680-24 Diagonal brace 2 3/64 x 3/64 wood strips WP3688-24 Fin attachment supports 2 .02 x 5/64 wood strips WP40264 Elevator pivot rod 1 5/64 x 5 1/2 brass rod WP40264 Rudder pivot rod 1 5/64 x 2 1/4 brass rod WP3202-40 Stabilizer rim (laminated) 5 .02 x 5/32 Tanganyika wood strips WP1860 Hinges 6 1/4” aluminum tape strips WP3631-24 Stabilizer & elevator spars 2 1/8 x 1/8 wood strips ñ special prep WP3660-24 Elevator brace 1 3/64 x 1/8 wood strip WP3673-24 Fin braces 2 5/64 x 5/64 wood strips WP3688-24 Ribs 14 .02 x 5/64 wood strips Ni28-062 Control horns 2 Britannia metal WP3202-40 Rudder rim (laminated) 5 .02 x 5/32 Tanganyika wood strips WP3673-24 Vertical brace 1 5/64 x 5/64 wood strip WP3660-24 Vertical brace 1 3/64 x 1/8 wood strip WP3631-24 Rudder post & main spar 2 1/8 x 1/8 wood strips ñ special prep J006 Stabilizer/elevator jig 1 laser-cut wood part 5/32 thick J007 Fin/rudder jig 1 laser-cut wood part 5/32 thick

Stabilizer and elevator:

This one is the real test of your bent lamination skill. The stabilizer rim is a continuous lamination that runs completely around both the stabilizer and the elevator. This ultimately will give you the leading edge of the stabilizer and the trailing edge of the elevator. Laminate the stabilizer rim using five Tanganyika wood strips(WP3202-40) against jig J006 to form the correct shape. Make sure the glue is completely dry before you unpin the shape from the jig.

Cut to length and glue in the stabilizer and elevator spars using 3x3mm wood strips(WP3631-24). These require special preparation before attaching. One face must be grooved into a shallow ìCî channel that will locate the pivot rod(WP40264) when the grooved sides face each other. See Plan D02. The easiest way to cut the groove is to score it the length of the strip with a razor saw, then to file the channel with a round rif-

. The angle of the file end of a riffler to the center handle makes it easier to keep your

fler hand out of the way. It is important that the pivot rod not be completely enclosed when sandwiched between these spars, otherwise the elevator will not operate.

Fin and rudder:

The procedure for constructing the fin and rudder is essentially the same as for the stabilizer and elevator. Especial care must be taken in building the fin because the elevator control horn must later be located within this structure.

Begin by forming the rim from five wood strips(WP3202-40) around jig J007. Prepare the rudder post and main spar(WP3631-24) with a groove, as you did for the stabilizer and elevator spars. Glue these in place, making sure the grooves face each other. Make the leading edge brace from WP3673-24, vertical braces from WP3673-24 and WP3660-24 as indicated, and diagonal braces from WP3680-24. Complete this step by adding the ribs from WP3688-241 to achieve a like curvature on both sides. Note how the ribs are paired on both sides of the horizontal joint between the fin and the rudder (Plan D02).

Referring to full-size Plan D02, saw the rudder from the fin and cut two dadoes into the rudder spar. Attach the rudder pivot rod(WP40264) to the rudder spar and make hinges from the aluminum tape(WP1860) the same way you did for the elevator. Finally, locate and attach the control horn(Ni28-062) to the rudder.

The elevator brace is made from 1x3mm wood strip(WP3660-24), the fin braces and the leading edge brace from 2x2mm wood strip(WP3673-24). Next add wood strips(WP3688-24) to create the topside ribs in an airfoil contour. Turn the assembly over and glue on the underside ribs, then add the two fin attachment supports from wood strips(WP3688-24). When all is dry, saw through the rim and ribs where indicated in Figure 4/3 to separate the elevator from the stabilizer.

Referring to full-size Plan D02 and Figure 4/4, cut four dadoes into the elevator spar to clear the outside of the elevator hinges. Next, glue the elevator pivot rod(WP40264) into the groove of the elevator spar

. Locate and attach the control horn(Ni28-062) to the

SSttaaggee 55:: BBuuiillddiinngg tthhee FFuusseellaagge

Initially, the fuselage will be assembled upside down on a special jig and then turned right way around and supported by two stands for completion. Refer to Figure 5/1 for the location of the fuselage construction jig parts (J008-J018). Check that all attachment edges are square and that all parts are aligned and square to the base as you glue the jig together. Taking the time to carefully prepare this jig will result in more successful assembly of the fuselage. below the crosspieces, against which the fuselage formers will be aligned. This slips into a slot formed by cutting part J019(WP———-) in half and gluing the resulting 300mm lengths to a baseboard that you supply. This same base will be used later for the fuselage support stands.

The central, longitudinal section of the assembled jig extends

PARTS LIST FOR STAGE 5:

WP3673-24 Longerons 4 5/64 x 5/64 wood strips Ni28-037-046 Fuselage formers #1,2,4-10 9 laser-cut wood parts 1.5mm thick WP3680-24 Stringers 23 3/64 x 3/64 wood strips WP3631-24 Tail frame 1 1/8 x 1/8 wood strip WP3673-24 Braces 7 5/64 x 5/64 wood strips Ni28-053 False frame 1 laser-cut wood parts 1/16 thick Ni28-054 False frame 1 laser-cut wood parts 1/16 thick WP3631-24 Braces 4 1/8 x 1/8 wood strips WP1205 Rigging cables 7’ Metal-gray thread J008-018 Fuselage construction jig 11 laser-cut wood parts 5/32 thick WP———- J019 - Fuselage jig base strips 2 3/16 x 1 wood strips J020-023 Fuselage support stand 4 laser-cut wood parts 5/32 thick

Baseboard 1 supplied by modeler

Fuselage formers; longerons; stringers:

Referring to full-size Plan D03, cut the four longerons to length from 5/64 x 5/64 wood strips(WP3673-24). Slip on the nine Fuselage formers(Ni28-037, 039, 040-046) in order, then turn this upside down and nestle it onto the fuselage construction jig. Clip the bulkheads against the forms and, without gluing anything yet, carefully check the align ment. The rearmost former is simply a length of 1/8 x 1/8 wood(WP3631-24). Begin gluing from the rear by joining the rear end of two top and the two bottom longerons and then these to the tail frame, as in Figures 5/7 and 5/3. Where former #3 would go, glue in two lengths of WP3673-24 between the upper and lower longerons.

After the formers are firmly glued to the longerons, get out the bent pin again and bore holes through the formers #4 through #10 between the longerons. (See Figure 5/5.) Criss-cross the bracing wires (WP1205) through the holes in the formers alongside the longerons. Using the previously described weight technique, secure the thread with glue at each former.

Glue the stringers, made from 1x1mm wood strips (WP3680-24), in place along the fuselage sides and bottom, connect-

ing formers #4 through #9.

Remove this sub assembly from the construction jig and turn it right side up. Remove the construction jig from the base and replace it with the support stand made from parts J020-023. With the fuselage supported on the stand, attach false frames Ni28-053 and Ni28054, then glue on the rest of the stringers. Complete this step by attaching the braces, from WP3631-24 and WP3673-24, as indicated in Figures 5/6 and 5/7.

SSttaaggee 66:: BBuuiillddiinngg tthhee CCoocckkppiit

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PARTS LIST FOR STAGE 6:

Ni28-068 Ni28-081 Control stick 1 Britannia casting Ni28-082 Trunion 1 Britannia casting WP161-12 Control stick pivot 1 3/64 x 1/2 Brass rod Ni28-084 Control stick supports 2 Britannia castings Ni28-086 False nuts 6 Britannia castings Ni28-087 Aileron push levers 2 Britannia castings Ni28-088 Aileron lever “S” arms 2 Britannia castings Ni28-089 Rudder bar 1 Britannia casting Ni28-090 Rudder bar support 1 Britannia casting Ni28-091 Rudder cable yoke 1 Britannia casting Ni28-092 Rudder control pin 1 2mm aluminum rivet Ni28-093 Instrument panel 1 Britannia casting WP40264 Instrument panel support bar 1 5/64 Brass rod WP——- Instrument faces 1 Gloss paper - set of three Ni28-094 Fuel handle 1 Britannia casting Ni28-095 Fuel level 1 Britannia casting WP1860 Rudder stirrups 2 1/4” aluminum tape C023 Choke 1 Britannia casting Ni28-101 Oil tank (2 parts) 2 Britannia castings A017 Aileron control false bolts 2 Britannia castings WP1205 Control cables A, B, C 6 Metal-gray thread C062 Lubricator 1 Britannia casting Ni28-099 Engine control quadrant 1 Britannia casting C054 Starter magneto 1 Britannia casting C055 Starter magneto handle 1 Britannia casting C058 Magneto switch 1 Britannia casting WP40224SEC Cockpit plumbing 2’ 031” Brass wire GR9-15 Crankshaft 1 4x66mm Steel rod GR9-16 Motor mounting ring 1 Britannia casting GR9-17 Pump & magneto gears 2 Britannia castings GR9-18 Oil pump 1 Britannia casting GR9-19 Magneto 1 Britannia casting GR9-20 Front crankshaft flange 1 Britannia casting GR9-21 Rear crankshaft flange 1 Britannia casting GR9-22 WP3680-24 Diagonal braces 2 3/64 x 3/64 wood strips Ni28-069 Stiffening plates R-L pair 2 Britannia casting Ni28-070 Stiffening plates 2 Britannia casting Ni28-071 Cable brace plates 4 Britannia casting Ni28-098 Seat back 1 Britannia casting WP0978 Ni28-100 Seat 1 Britannia casting Ni28-105 Fuel filler pipe/caps 2 Britannia castings Ni28-076 Ni28-102a,b,c,d Main fuel tank 1 Britannia casting (4 parts) Ni28-103 Saddle fuel tank 1 Britannia casting A037 Wire connections 1/4” lengths of copper spring MODELER PROVIDES Fuel tank skin Ni28-??? Fuel tank strap buckles 4 Britannia castings W042 Turnbuckles 12 Britannia metal WP1205 Rigging cable 4’ Metal-gray thread

Cabane struts 2 R-L pair Britannia castings

Air manifold & fuel pipe

Fuel tank straps 4 1/4” Copper tape

Arc strut brace

1 Britannia casting

1 Sheet aluminum ñ SODA

CAN

Control stick:

Referring to Figures 6/1 and 6/2, insert the trunion(Ni28-082) through the rectangular opening in the control stick(Ni28-

081) and pin it in place with pivot (WP161-12). You will need to drill out the holes in the stick for the pivot pin and must cut the pin to length. Glue itís ends to the molded-on false nuts, making sure that the stick moves easily back and forth on the trunion.

In the actual aircraft, the joints between the control stick, push lever, and “S” arms are designed to move in two axes. This is accomplished in the model by the simple expedient of allowing sufficient free play in the linkage. It is suggested that you test fit the linkage before gluing on the false nuts, and then ream the holes in the push levers(Ni28-087) if needed.

Unite the aileron push levers(Ni28-087) and aileron “S” arms(Ni28-088) by means of the aileron control false bolts(A017) and false nuts (Ni28-086). Attach these assemblies to the trunion pivots and secure with false nuts. Make sure that all the joints move freely.

Glue the control stick supports(Ni28-

084) into place on the 3x3mm braces(WPO3631-24) that run across the cockpit. The braces fit within the slots, which face each other, on the supports. Next insert the trunion pins into the brackets on the supports and gently crimp the brackets to secure the trunion pins but still allowing the control stick to pivot freely side to side.

Finish this step by attaching the 2 elevator control cables(WP1205) (“A” and “B” in Figure 6/2) to the control stick. Run the cables back through the fuselage, through the left outer of the bottom four lightening holes of formers #4-6, then through the left outer of the four holes in the brace

emporarily tie them

across former #7. off at former #10.

Rudder controls:

The rudder bar assembly consists of parts Ni28-089-092 and WP1860 as shown in Figure 6/3. Make sure the rudder bar(Ni28-089) swings freely. Make the stirrups from the 1/4” aluminum

tape(WP1860) by first folding the tape in half lengthwise, adhesive side in, then trimming to 3/16î wide. Mount the assem bly onto the forward most 3x3mm wood brace, then attach the rudder control cables to the yoke(Ni28-091), pass them back through the fuselage, through the inner two of the bottom four lightening holes in formers #4-6, then through the inner two of the four holes in the brace across former #7. Temporarily tie them off at former #10.

Engine fittings:

Attach the metal stiffening plates(Ni28069 and Ni28-070) to the first and second formers. Next glue on the cable brace plates(Ni28-071). Slip the pump and magneto gears(GR9-17) onto their shafts on the motor mounting ring(GR9-16). They are loose so they turn freely when the gear on the engine’s distributor meshes between them. Temporarily affix them with tape to avoid losing them before you install the engine. Assemble the two parts of the oil tank(Ni28-101) as in Figure 6/5 and glue this to the motor mounting ring.

Paying attention to the order of the remaining engine accessory parts and location of the first and second formers (Figures 6/6 - 6/8) dry fit them with the

crankshaft and the engine mounting plate. Include the propeller and engine assem-

When you are satisfied that every-

blies. thing properly lines up, remove the engine assembly and glue the flanges(GR9-20 and GR9-21) and the motor mounting ring to their respective formers. Glue the crankshaft into flange(GR9-21) and the air manifold and fuel pump(GR9-22).

Cabane struts; instrument panel; plumb-

ing:

Referring to full-size Plan D03, locate the cabane struts(Ni28-068) and attach them to the longerons. Attach the arc strut brace(Ni28-076).

Separate the paper gauge faces(Ni28???) by cutting away the black rectangle, then glue them to the back of the instrument panel(Ni28-093) and paint the back of the paper aluminum. Locate and install the instrument support bar(WP40264) at the back of the instrument panel, so it is visible through the rectangular hole in the panel. Glue the fuel handle(Ni28-094)to the hole in the instrument panel and the choke(C023) in the ring on the right hand edge of the panel. The lubricator(C062) attaches to the instrument support bar to the left of the panel.

Locate the engine control quadrant(Ni28-099) on the inside of the upper left longeron. Drill pilot holes for the mounting pins and glue it in place. Referring to Figure 6/4 and Plan D03, locate and install the starter magneto(Ni28-054) and its handle(Ni28-

055), magneto switch (Ni28-058) to the inside surface of the upper right longeron; and the fuel level(Ni28-095) to inside sur face of the right 5/64 x 5/64 brace.

Referring to Figure 6/12, connect the controls and gauges to their respective units by means of eleven lengths of .031” brass wire(WP40224SEC) inserted into 5mm lengths of copper spring(A037) to make the connections. These will fit over the pins molded into the castings. Take your time bending and test fitting this wire. Figure 6/12 is schematic. The actual plumbing runs should follow the Longerons. Leave enough extra wire for the two fuel lines when you attach the fuel tanks in the next step.

Fuel tanks:

Assemble the main fuel tank framework(Ni28-102a,b,c,d) according to Figure 6/9. Note that the side that would face the pilot leans inward, while the opposite side sits at a 90 degree angle.

Before skinning over the framework, it is important to file and sand off any rough spots and misalignments. Prepare the sheet aluminum skin by cutting apart an aluminum soda can and then pulling it, outer surface down, over a board or table edge to flatten it. Next, sand the painted surface with #200 grit paper to provide sufficient tooth for gluing. When finished, the inside of the can will be the outside of the fuel tank. The reason is it is easier to prepare the outer surface for gluing than the inner, varnished surface.

Start by Super Gluing a strip of aluminum over the arced portion of the main tank. Cut it as close as possible to the framework, then use a fine, flat mill bastard file to true the edge right to the frame. Repeat the process for the two sides, then finish up with the bottom. File from the outside toward the inside of the tank to avoid pushing the skin loose. The saddle tank(Ni28-103) is covered in the same way. After the tanks are covered, you can sand with #400 grit paper to get an even finish and then buff the tanks with steel wool. Finally, drill holes for the filler pipes(Ni28-105) and glue them in place. Referring to Figure 6/12 drill holes underneath the main fuel tank for the plumbing(WP40222SEC) (see previous step).

Glue the main fuel tank against the inside of former #1, across the upper longerons. The saddle fuel tank goes against the right longerons. In the real aircraft, the tanks were strapped into place. Make the tank straps(WP0978) out of 1/4” copper tape, folded in half lengthwise, adhesive side in, then trimmed to 3/16” wide. Wrap these around the tanks and longerons so that the straps appear to hold the fuel tanks in place, and slip on the buckles (Ni28-???). Refer to Figure 6/13 and full-size Plans D01 and D03.

Rigging; seat:

Referring to Figure 6/13, connect the bracing wires(WP1205) to the metal stiffenings(Ni28-069,070) and cable brace plates(Ni28-071), using twelve turnbuck les(W042).

Carefully bend the seat back(Ni28-098) and glue it to the seat(Ni28-100). Paint the seat back as described in the introduction, then glue the assembly onto the 1/8 x 1/8 horizontal brace attached to fuselage former #4. Refer to Figure 5/6.

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PARTS LIST FOR STAGE 7:

Ni28-072 Landing gear struts 2 Britannia castings Ni28-073 Tires 2 Rubber Ni28-074 Wheels 4 Britannia Castings Ni28-075 Wheel locks 2 Britannia castings Ni28-078 Wheel hubs 2 Britannia castings WP1227 Shock cord 4 Tan nylon cord Ni28-080 Axel 1 Britannia casting Ni28-077 Tailskid 1 Britannia casting Ni28-109 Gun barrels/

cooling jackets 2 Britannia castings Ni28-110 Gun breech assemblies 2 Britannia castings C017 Gun barrel caps 2 Britannia castings C018 Muzzle flame arresters 2 Britannia castings Ni28-112 Machinegun mounts 2 Britannia castings Ni28-111 Gun mount braces 3 Britannia castings WP3680-24 Stabilizer struts 2 3/64 x 3/64 wood

strips W042 Turnbuckles 2 Britannia castings WP1205 Rigging cables 2’ Metal-gray thread J020-023 Fuselage support stand 4 laser-cut wood parts

5/32 thick

Referring to Figures 7/2 and 7/3, glue the machine gun mounts(Ni28-112) to the left cabane struts and then connect them with the three mount braces(Ni28-111). You might want to paint the two guns before gluing them onto the mounts.

Empennage assembly:

Glue the vertical fin you previously assembled between the fin braces (2/64 x 5/64 wood strips ñ WP3673-24) on the stabilizer. Check that the fin/rudder assembly is at a right angle to the stabilizer and make sure that the rudder and elevator move freely. Then, attach the bracing cables(WP1205), being especially careful not to pull them so tight you create a dihedral to the stabiliz-

Set the airplane on a level surface, then glue on the empennage so that the leading edge of the fin rests between fuselage formers #9 and #10. Check to make sure the fin/rudder is perpendicular to the surface and that the axis of the stabilizer is at a right angle to the long axis of the fuselage. After the glue has dried, make the stabilizer struts from 3/64 x 3/64 wood strip(WP3680-24) and glue them in place according to Figures 7/4 and 8/6.

Landing gear:

Assemble the wheels using two parts(Ni28-074) and one hub (Ni28-078) each. These “solid” wheels were actually fabric grass guards stretched over wire spoke wheels, therefore you might want to paint these a canvas color. Stretch the tires and snap them onto the wheels. Locate the tailskid(Ni28-077) on Plan D03 and glue it into place.

Return the fuselage to the support stand you previously constructed. Slide the landing gear struts(Ni28-072) onto the axel(Ni28-080) and, referring to Figure 7/1, attach the rear landing gear struts to the junction of the inside interplane struts and the stringers. Tie the shock cords(WP1227) in place, then mount the wheels and secure them with the wheel locks(Ni28-075). Attach the crossed cable braces(WP1205) using turnbuckles(W042), according to Figure 7/1, then attach the third cable brace from the center of the axel to the point where the other two braces cross. Refer to Plan D01.

Machine guns:

The gun barrel caps(C017) included with your model represent

o improve the look of your model,

ickers machineguns.

Colt-V drill out all the dimples on the gun barrel caps and the muzzle of the flame arresters(C018).

10 and C017, 18) of each machine gun, noting that the muz

1 zle/flame arresters attach below the center of the cooling jackets. The two guns are mounted left of the main axis of the fuselage.

Assemble the four parts(Ni28-109,

SSttaaggee 88:: FFiinnaall A

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PARTS LIST FOR STAGE 8:

Ni28-035 WP3629-24 W042 Turnbuckles 12 Britannia castings WP1205 Interplane bracing wire 7’ Metal-gray thread A017 False bolts 12 Britannia castings

Rudder and elevator control cables:

Temporarily brace the control stick in the neutral position, perpendicular to the plane of the cockpit floor. Temporarily brace the rudder bar at a right angle to the axis of the fuselage. Untie the rudder control cables, which you had previously tied out of the way at fuselage former #10. Cross them so the right cable goes to the left rudder control horn and the left one to the right rudder control horn. Tie and glue them in place, referring to full-size Plan D03. The cables should be snug but not too tight. In similar fashion, cross the elevator control cables so “B,” the upper one on the control stick, goes to the lower elevator horn and “A” goes to the upper control horn. When you release the control column and the rudder bar, these controls will activate their respective control surfaces just like in the real aircraft. It is recommended, however, that you do not operate the controls. The scale parts are delicate and might easily break.

Lower wing and ailerons:

Without applying glue, insert the aileron torque bars(A022) through the holes in the aileron lever “S” arms(Ni28-088), then glue the lower wing in place. Make sure to glue the joints between the cabane struts and the wing spars.

Brace the control column in the neutral position and make sure the ailerons have zero deflection. Now glue the “S” arms to the aileron torque bars. When the glue is dry, moving the control column side to sides should actuate the ailerons. As above, it is recommended that you do not operate the controls. The scale parts are delicate and might easily break.

Upper wing:

End fittings for interplane struts 8 Britannia castings Interplane struts 4 3/32 x 1/4 basswood

Struts cross bracing:

Referring to Figure 8/6, use turnbuckles(W042), at the lower end of each run, and Metal-gray thread(WP1205) to rig the cross bracing. Note that the braces from the top of the interplane struts to the bottom of the cabane struts are doubled. Make sure the braces are snug, but do not over-tighten them. Finally, rig the right and left wire braces between the stabilizer and the fin.

Finishing Touches:

Slip the combined propeller and motor sub-assembly onto the crankshaft, allowing it to turn freely. Check the entire model over to ensure all glue joints are tight. Carefully clean any previously unnoticed excess glue beads and touch up the stain and paint if needed.

Congratulations - your NIEUPORT 28 is finished! Stand back and take a picture. We at Model Airways and Model Expo hope you have enjoyed this project and look forward to flying with you on your next aircraft modeling project. As this is a delicate model, we suggested that you mount it on a suitable baseboard and cover it with a protective glass or acrylic display case.

Bibliography:

1. Smithsonian Institution, National Air and Space Museum, Archives Division, Washington, D.C.

For the upper wing to line up properly, it is critical that the assembled interplane struts be of equal length and that they match their depiction on Plan D01. Working directly from Plan D01, cut four slightly oversize lengths of wood strip WP3629-24 and then sand them to exactly the same, correct length. Cut a slot in each end, following the longer of the two dimensions, then prep the cut ends with a little water-thin CA glue. When this has set up, glue on the end fittings (Ni28-035). Complete the assembly by shaping the wood to the same tear drop cross-section as the end fittings. The broader curve will face forward when the interplane struts are installed. these struts gold-mahogany and finish them with a couple coats of varnish or shellac.

The cabane struts attach to the compression bars(Ni28-018) by means of false bolts(A017). of the upper wing. Essentially the same method is used to attach the interplane struts to the compression bars. Once you are satisfied that the fit and angles are correct, glue both the contact points of the all of the struts and the compression bars and the insertions of the false bolts.

The mounting holes are slightly oversize to allow for correct positioning

You might wish to stain

2. Nieuport Fighters in Action, Aircraft

Number 167, by Peter Cooksley.

Squadron/Signal Publications. Carrollton. TX. 1997. One of a popular series of books published by the Squadron mail order firm that sells plastic and other model kits from all over the world. This one is about all the Nieuport aircraft from Model 10 through 28. Many and descriptions.

3. French War, by Dr. James Davilla and Arthur Soltan. Flying Machines Press, Stratford,

. 1997.

CT tographs of the French aircraft used dur ing the war.

Aircraft of the First

Aircraft drawings and pho-

, many photos

orld

4. Jane’s Fighting Aircraft of World War 1, forwarded by John Military Press, New York. 1990. Photos and description of NIEUPORT 28 and other WW1 aircraft, and plans and photos of the Gnome-Rhone engine.

5. WW 1 Aero - The Journal of the Early Airplane. Aquarterly journal published by Leonard E. Opdycke, Poughkeepsie, NY. Many issues of this journal have articles about the NIEUPORT, with photos.

6. World Encyclopedia of Aero Engines, by Bill Gunston. Patrick Stevens Limited, Sparkford, England. 1996. Contains a history of the Gnome and Gnome-Rhone engine company.

7. Many historical notes and specifications of the NIEUPOR on the World Wide Web. Search the name NIEUPORT.

W.R. Taylor.

T 28 can be found

MMOODDEELLEERR''SS LLOOGG

DATE TIME NOTES

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