Mod Trill Tremolo User Manual

THE TRILL TREMOLO (K-960)

DEPTH

TO

AMP

IN

The Trill Tremolo

Modkitsdiy.com

SPEED

Unplug when not in use

to save battery life.

FROM

GUITAR

OUT

Use these instructions to learn:

How to build an effects pedal for tremolo.

The Trill Tremolo pedal offers classic tremolo tones in an easy to build kit. The Speed knob provides a wide
range from very slow to a rapid fire effect. The Depth knob varies the ratio between effected and dry signal.
Using modern, low noise transistors makes operation of the Trill quiet with no signal drop when engaged as
in some vintage style tremolo pedals.

Warning: This circuit was designed for use with a 9 VDC power supply only.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

TOOL LIST ……………………………………………………………………………………….2

PARTS LIST DRAWINGS……………………………………………………………………...3, 4

SOLDERING TIPS ……………………………………………………………………………….5

STEP BY STEP ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS ……………………………………………….6

Section 1 – Mount Potentiometers, Terminal Strips and Footswitch ……………………6
Section 2 – Mount Input & Output Capacitors, ¼” Jacks and Wire the Footswitch ………..6
Section 3 – Strip, Tin and Connect the Remaining Wires ………..………………………7

Section 4 – Mount the Components ......………………………………………………….8

ASSEMBLY DRAWINGS (6 Drawings) …………………………………………….10 - 12
These are the last 3 pages. They should be separated and used as a reference to help assemble the
kit correctly.

Visit www.modkitsdiy.com if you have any problems when first turning on your pedal for
troubleshooting help. Remember to use caution when applying power to the pedal to avoid electric
shock.

TOOL LIST

Wire Strippers
Needle Nose Pliers
Cutting Pliers
Desoldering Pump
Solder (60/40 rosin core)
Soldering Station
Phillips Head Screwdrivers
Slotted tip screwdrivers (3 mm tip)
Channellock Pliers (or similar type)
Ruler
Hobby Vise (or other means to secure box while working)

2

PARTS LIST 1

Stranded Wire (22 AWG) - Red

K-PUL1569 (3 FT)

Enclosure

P-H1590BCE-O (1)

Knob (Black with Line)

P-K345 (2)

DPDT Foot Switch

P-H498 (1)

Potentiometers: 1ML and 250KL

R-VA1ML (1)

R-VA250KL (1)

1

2

3

Terminal Strip with 5 Terminals

Battery Clip

S-H155 (1)

¼” Mono Jack (Output Jack)

W-SC-11-T (1)

GROUND LUG

TIP LUG

¼” Stereo Jack (Input Jack)

P-0501H01 (1)

Terminal Strip with 8 Terminals

P-0802H (2)

#4 Screw (1/4" long)

S-HS440-14 (5)

#4 Nut

S-HHN440 (5)

W-SC-12B (1)

SLEEVE LUG

TIP LUG

RING LUG

#4 Lock Washer

S-HLW4 (5)

3

PARTS LIST 2

NPN BJT (MPSA18)

P-QMPSA18 (3)

MPS
A18

E B C

10µF Polarized Capacitor 50V

C-ET10-50 (1)

10µF 50V

0.1µF Capacitor 100V

C-PEID1-100 (3)

104J

1.5kΩ Resistor ½ W

R-A1D5K (1)

1.5K

brown

green

red

gold

15kΩ Resistor ½ W

R-A15K (1)

15K

brown

green

orange

gold

3MΩ Resistor ½ W

R-A3M (1)

orange

3M

black

green

gold

0.22µF Capacitor 100V

C-PEID22-100 (3)

224J

1MΩ Resistor ½ W

R-A1M (2)

1M

brown

black

green

gold

100kΩ Resistor ½ W

R-A100K (4)

100K

brown

black

yellow

gold

330kΩ Resistor ½ W

R-A330K (1)

330K

orange

orange

yellow

gold

4.7kΩ Resistor ½ W

R-A4D7K (1)

4.7K

yellow

violet

red

gold

5.6kΩ Resistor ½ W

R-A5D6K (1)

5.6K

green

blue

red

gold

4

SOLDERING TIPS

It is important to make a good solder joint at each connection point. A cold solder joint is a connection that
may look connected but is actually disconnected or intermittently connected. (A cold solder joint can keep
your project from working.)

Follow these tips to make a good solder joint. Take your time with each connection and make sure that all

components are connected and will remain connected if your project is bumped or shaken.

Bend the component lead or wire ending and wrap it around the connection point.

Make sure it is not too close to a neighboring component which could cause an
unintended connection.

2. Wrap the component lead so that it can hold itself to the connection point.
Touch the soldering iron to both the component lead and the connection point allowing both to
warm up just before applying the solder to them.
Be sure to adequately cover both component lead and connection point with melted solder.

Remove the soldering iron from your work and allow the solder joint to cool. (The
solder joint should be shiny and smooth after solidifying.)
Cut off any excess wire or component leads with cutting pliers.
Clean the soldering iron's tip by wiping it across the wet sponge again after making the
solder joint.

1. Bend the component lead
and wrap it around the

connection point.

1. Heat up old solder joint
with the soldering iron.

2. Wrap the component lead
so that it can hold itself to the

De-Soldering Tip

connection point.

3. Heat up both component

lead and connection point with

2. Apply fresh solder to mix in
with old solder joint

5

the soldering iron.

3. Use a de-soldering tool to
remove the old solder joint

while it is heated.

4. Apply solder to both
component lead and

connection point.

SECTION 1 – Mount Potentiometers, Terminal Strips and Footswitch

Please refer to DRAWING 1 and DRAWING 2.

Alignment

Tab

Orient the box with ½” hole nearest you.

Bend back and remove the alignment tab on the top of each potentiometer
using a pair of pliers before mounting the pots so that they can mount flush
against the enclosure surface.

Mount the 1ML potentiometer in the 5/16" hole on the top right side of the box. Orient this pot so
that lug “1” is pointing down toward the bottom of the box. Fasten the nut and tighten.

Mount the 250KL pot in the 5/16" hole on the top left side of the box. Make sure that all three
lugs are facing down toward the bottom of the box. Fasten the nut and tighten.

Using the hardware provided, mount the terminal strips as
shown in DRAWING 2. The lock washers go underneath

outside box

each respective hex nut for a tight grip.

Please note that each terminal has been numbered as illustrated in
DRAWING 2 and will be referred to as a “Terminal #_” when
connecting different components and wires throughout the assembly
instructions.

Terminal Strip

inside box

Mounting

Bracket

Mount the footswitch in the ½” hole as shown in DRAWING 2 using hardware provided. The
large nylon washer goes under mounting nut on the outside of the box. The lock washer mounts
on the inside between the box surface and the other nut. Make sure the footswitch solder lugs
are oriented as shown in the drawing.

SECTION 2 – Mount Input & Output Capacitors, ¼” Jacks and Wire the Footswitch

Please refer to DRAWING 3.

Unless noted otherwise, “connect” means to trim the component’s leads to a reasonable length, wrap them tightly
around their connection points and solder. (See “Soldering Tips” on page 5).

You might find it easier to mount the capacitors upside-down with the insulated top end of each cap touching the
enclosure surface.

Connect one of the 0.1µF capacitors from Lug “1” of the footswitch to Terminal #2 as shown in
DRAWING 3.

Connect one of the 1M resistors from Lug “1” of the footswitch to Terminal #1.

Connect another 0.1µF capacitor from Lug “4” of the footswitch to Terminal #6 as shown.

Only solder the connection at Lug “4” at this point. (There will be three more components connected to Terminal #6).

Connect the other 1M resistors from Lug “4” of the footswitch to Terminal #8.

Mount the input jack in the 3/8" hole on the left side of the box. The washer goes under the nut
on the outside of the box. Make sure to center the “ground” lug of the input jack so that it is
facing up towards the enclosure opening. This will make soldering the connections easier.

6

Mount the output jack in the 3/8" hole on the right side of the box. Make sure the “tip” lug of the
input jack is facing up towards the enclosure opening.

Stripping and tinning wire and soldering. Throughout these instructions you will be told to strip
and tin a length of wire numerous times. Unless noted otherwise, cut the wire to the length stated in
the instructions. Then strip ¼” of insulation off each end. Twist each end of the stranded wire, and
apply a small amount of solder to each end (tin the wire ends). This will prevent the stranded wire
from fraying and will make the final soldering much easier.

Strip and tin a 1 ½” piece of wire and connect footswitch lug “2” to input jack “tip” lug.

Strip and tin a 1 ½” piece of wire and connect footswitch lug “5” to output jack “tip” lug.

Strip and tin a 1 ½” piece of wire and connect footswitch lugs “3” and “6” to each other.

Push this wire down so that it rests against the back of the switch. This should be done to provide an insulating
barrier between the 9 volt battery and the terminals of the footswitch.

Locate the battery clip. Twist its leads together a few times and connect the black lead to the
ring lug of the input jack. Connect the red lead to Terminal #7 as shown in DRAWING 3.

SECTION 3 – Strip, Tin and Connect the Remaining Wires

Please refer to DRAWING 4.

Wire leads should be routed as close to the bottom of the box as possible in order to
make mounting the components easier later in the assembly process. Consider making
wire connections to the lower terminal holes and leaving the upper part of the terminals
for component connections.

lower holes

Strip and tin a 4” piece of wire and connect Terminals #7 and #18 to each other.

Strip and tin a 4 ½” piece of wire. Strip ½” of insulation off of one end and use it to connect the
1ML pot lugs “2” and “3” to each other. Connect the other wire end to Terminal #14.

Strip and tin a 2 ¼” piece of wire and connect Terminals #10 and #19 to each other.

Strip and tin a 2” piece of wire. Strip ½” of insulation off of one end and use it to connect the
250KL pot lugs “2” and “3” to each other. Connect the other wire end to Terminal #13.

Only solder the pot lug connections at this point. (Terminal #13 will have another wire connected next).

Strip and tin a 2 ½” piece of wire and connect Terminals #13 and #16 to each other.

Strip and tin a 2 ½” piece of wire and connect Terminals #17 and #20 to each other.

7

SECTION 4 – Mount the Components

Please refer to DRAWING 5.

Connect the 1.5K resistor to Terminals #1 & #4.

Connect a 100K resistor to Terminals #2 & #3.

Only solder the connection at Terminal #2 at this point. (There will be two more components connected to Terminal #3).

Connect the 0.1 µF capacitor to Terminals #3 & #5.

Don’t solder these connections, yet. (There will be one more component added to #3 and two more added to #5).

Connect the 4.7K resistor to Terminals #3 & #15.

Only solder the #3 connection, now. (There will be two more component added to #15).

Mount one MPSA18 transistor to Terminals #4, #5 and #6.

MPS

Only solder the #4 connection, now. (There will be more components added to #5 and #6).

A18

Terminals #4: Emitter

Terminals #5: Base

Terminals #6: Collector

Connect the 330K resistor to Terminals #5 & #6.

Only solder the #5 connection, now. (There will be one more component added to #6).

Connect the 15K resistor to Terminals #6 & #7.

Connect a 0.22 µF capacitor to Terminals #11 & #12.

Do not solder these connections, yet. (There will be two more components added to each terminal).

Connect another 0.22 µF capacitor to Terminals #10 & #11.

Only solder the #10 connection, now. (There will be one more component added to #11).

Connect the remaining 0.22 µF capacitor to Terminals #12 & #17.

Only solder the #17 connection, now. (There will be one more component added to #12).

Connect a 5.6K resistor to Terminal #12 & 250KL pot lug “1”.

Mount another MPSA18 transistor to Terminals #13, #14 and #15.

Only solder the #14 connection, now. (There will be one more component added from #13 to #15).

E B C

MPS

A18

Terminals #13: Emitter

Terminals #14: Base

Terminals #15: Collector

Connect a 100K resistor to Terminals #13 & #15.

E B C

8

Connect another 100K resistor to Terminals #18 & #19.

Only solder the #18 connection, now. (There will be three more components added to #19).

Connect the 3M resistor to Terminals #19 & #20.

Do not solder these connections, yet. (There will be more components added to each terminal).

Mount another MPSA18 transistor to Terminals #19, #20 and #21.

MPS

Only solder the #20 & #21 connections, now. (There will be one more component added to #19).

A18

Terminals #21: Emitter

Terminals #20: Base

E B C

Terminals #19: Collector

Connect the 10 µF capacitor with its positive (+) lead at the 1ML

-

10µF 50V

+

pot lug “1” and its negative (-) lead at Terminal #19.

Connect the remaining 100K resistor to Terminals #9 & #11.

DRAWING 6 offers an enlarged view of the terminal strip components to help with double-checking
your work.

Finish it off by double-checking all of your connections, connect and insert a 9V battery, screw the lid on and
fasten the knobs to both pot shafts.

9

DRAWING 1

TOP

1/8"

5/16"5/16"

LEFT SIDE

1/8"

1/8"

INSIDE VIEW OF THE

ENCLOSURE

1/8"

3/8" 3/8"

1/2"

1/8"

DRAWING 2

SPEED

POT

21

DEPTH

POT

RIGHT SIDE

20

19

1

2

3

18

17

16

2 3 4 5 6 7

1

1

2

3

10

1ML250KL

3

1

2

9101112131415

4

5

6

8

DRAWING 3

GROUND

LUG

SPEED

POT

21

20

1ML250KL

19

1

2

3

18

1

DEPTH

POT

2

3

17

910111213141516

INPUT OUTPUT

RING LUG

TIP LUG

2 3 4 5 6 7

1

1M

.1µF

1

3

GROUND

.1µF

4

1M

8

6

RED

LUG

TIP

LUG

BLK

DRAWING 4

SPEED

POT

21

1ML250KL

1

2

1 8

1M

.1µF

3

17

12

5

1

.1µF

1M

DEPTH

POT

3

1

2

916

3

11

6

DRAWING 5

SPEED

POT

1

100K

1 8

1M

1.5K

.1µF

5

.

6

100K

MPS

4

.

7

3

K

A18

K

.1µF

1

3

1

.22µF

E B

21

MPS

A18

1ML250KL

M

3

1

0

µ

F

5

0

V

0

0

K

17

.22µF

12

.22µF

MPS

A18

K

0

3

3

15K

5

.1µF

1M

6

1

100K

DEPTH

POT

2

916

3

100K

C

1.5K

5

.

6

K

100K

MPSA18

4

.

7

K

DRAWING 6

Q2

E

Q1

.1µF

E C

1

.22µF

0

0

K

12

MPSA18

21

E

MPSA18

Q3

M

3

C

1

0

µ

F

5

0

V

17

.22µF

.22µF

3

3

100K

K

0

15K

916

1 8

1M

.1µF

5

12

.1µF

1M