MJM Yachts 40z User Manual

401-862-4367 .

[e-mail]

November 2012

Congratulations on becoming Captain and Owner of the world’s best built and most fuel efficient yacht of its size.
The enclosed copy of the 40z Owner’s Manual should further contribute to your enjoyment and proficiency afloat.

This manual was created jointly with Zurn Yacht Design, Boston BoatWorks and MJM Yachts. Our experience
with the first 145 boats (all models included) has been incorporated to make this manual as useful and relevant
as possible. Keep in mind that there maybe some variances such as location of the breakers on the panel. And, from
time-to-time we will change specifications to keep pace with changes made to improve the boat.

When addressing a problem with a specific piece of equipment, this 40z Owner’s Manual is to be regarded only as a
preliminary source of information. The equipment manufacturer’s own manual with trouble-shooting procedures,
etc. is the primary source and authority.

A Small Craft Owner’s Manual accompanies, and forms part of, this 40z Owner Manual. This booklet has universal
handling and operating tips worth reviewing.

This 40z Owner’s Manual is designed to be a living document, not only for builder updates but for your own use and

record. Each boat is provided with a copy of the current Manual organized in a STAPLES “Mini-Ring” type binder

that allows you to add pages as needed.

One of the great advantages of purchasing a series-built or semi-custom design is that owners have the benefit of

learning from one another. So, with your continued input and comments we can keep adding useful information and

helpful hints to this manual.

Part of the ISO CE Mark Certification Program is confirmation by the owner that the manual has been received.
Please sign the extra page No. 3 included in the Manual as a receipt and return it in the stamped envelope provided.

Best wishes for fair winds and sunny skies. On behalf of the builder and designer, we are most appreciative, and I
am particularly honored, that you have chosen the 40z.

Robert L. Johnstone
Founder & CEO

Note: This manual is published in accordance with ISO standard 10240:1995E Small Craft - Owner’s Manual

40z Owner’s Manual

LOA - Length Overall Including Swim Platform & Bow Roller 44.3 ft.

LOD - Length On Deck 40.0 ft

Beam – Trailerable Max Width 12.0 ft.

Draft – Max Draft with IPS or Stern Drives Down 3.3 ft.

Displacement – ! Load 18,900 lbs.

Fuel Tankage - In 2 175 gallon Tanks 350 gals.

Fresh Water Tankage – Including Hot Water Tank 112 gals.

Holding Tank 25 gals.

Air Height over Water w/Radar Mounted on Hard Top 10 ft.

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CE CERTIFICATION

CERTIFICATE NO.

ADDRESS:

WEBSITE:
CLASSIFICATION:

CAPACITY

PERSONS:
PERSONS/GEAR:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

RECEIPT BY OWNER In compliance with ISO 10240:1995(E) the owner hereby certifies receipt

of this manual and has read and agrees to the terms of the Builder’s Limited Warranty included herein.

Printed Name

Boat Name

City, State, Zip

Tel.

E Mail

NOTE: PLEASE SIGN ONE OF THE TWO COPIES OF THIS PAGE AND RETURN IT IN THE
ATTACHED STAMPED ENVELOPE TO: MJM YACHTS at 89 Pinckney Street, Boston MA 02114.

Denotes an extreme intrinsic hazard exits which would result in high probability of

death or irreparable injury if proper precautions are not taken.

Denotes a hazard exists which can result in injury or death if proper precautions

are not taken.

Denotes a reminder of safety practices or directs attention to unsafe practices

which could result in personal injury or damage to the craft or components.

REGISTRATION #:

International Marine Certification Institute

Rue Abbe Cuypers 3

B-1040 Bruxelles, Belgique

[phone]

ISO CE Mark Design Category A Ocean (EC Directive 94/25/EC) for craft
designed for offshore voyages (1) where the vessel is correctly handled
in the sense of good seamanship and operated at a speed appropriate to
the prevailing sea state and (2) with significant wave heights above 4 m
(calculations are based on 7 m) and wind speeds in excess of Beaufort
Force 8, but excluding abnormal conditions, e.g. hurricanes.

Maximum 16 Persons

Maximum Load 3518 kg

Hull #

Date

AUTHORITY:

BBBW003

PHONE:

www.imci.org

NAME:

ADDRESS:

MOBILE

TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER 1

1.1

1.2

1.3

1.4

1.5

1.6

CHAPTER 2

2.1

2.2

2.3

2.4

CHAPTER 3 PROPULSION SYSTEM

INTRO – TOP 10 REASONS of ENGINE FAILURE

3.1

3.2

3.3

3.4

3.5

3.6

3.7

3.8

3.9

3.10

3.11

CHAPTER 4 STEERING SYSTEM

4.1 SYSTEM DESCRIPTION

4.2 JOYSTICK DOCKING

4.3 HELM STATION PICTURE

4.4 SWITCH PANEL

4.5 TRIM TABS

4.6 AUTOPILOT OPERATION

4.7 WINDSHIELD WIPERS

4.8 SPOTLIGHT

4.9 HELM POSITION RISER

CHAPTER 5 FUEL SYSTEM

5.0 GENERAL

5.1

5.2

5.3

5.4

CHAPTER 6 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

6.0 GENERAL

6.1

6.2

6.3

6.4

6.5

6.6

6.7

6.8

6.9

CHAPTER 7 FRESHWATER SYSTEM

7.0 GENERAL

7.1

7.2

7.3

7.4

CHAPTER 8

8.1

8.2

CHAPTER 9

9.1

9.2

9.3

9.4

CHAPTER 10 EXTERIOR EQUIPMENT

10.1

10.2

10.3

10.4

10.5

10.6

10.7

CHAPTER 11 INTERIOR EQUIPMENT

11.1 MARINE HEAD SYSTEM

11.2 REFRIGERATION

11.3 COOKTOP

11.4 MICROWAVE/OVEN

11.5 AIR-CONDITIONING

11.6 HEATING SYSTEM

11.7 STEREO & CD CHANGER

11.8 SIRIUS SATELLITE RADIO

11.9 TELEVISION

11.10 SATELLITE TV RECEIVER

CHAPTER 12 ROUTINE MAINTENANCE

12.1 SCHEDULE

12.2 FLUIDS

CHAPTER 13 SEASONAL MAINTENANCE

CHAPTER 14 FIGURES

14.1 EMERGENCY DIAGRAM

14.2 DC SCHEMATIC (12 VOLT)

14.3 AC SCHEMATIC (120 VOLT)

14.4 SYSTEMS DIAGRAM

14.5 TRAVEL LIFT SLING DIAGRAMS

14.6 BOAT LIFT OFFSETS

14.7 TRUCKING CHECKLIST

CHAPTER 15 LIMITED WARRANTY

CHAPTER 16 QUICK START

OPERATION

GENERAL

QUICK START GUIDE

OPERATING PROCEDURES

NAVIGATION

TOWING

HAULING OUT

SAFETY EQUIPMENT

GENERAL

FUEL SHUT-OFFS

FIRE

FIRST AID

GENERAL

COOLING

ZINCS & CORROSION

AIR INTAKES

ENGINE DISPLAY PANEL

THROTTLE/SHIFT LEVER

STARTING

ALARMS

STOPPING

OPERATION

FUEL SHUT-OFFS

FILLING

RACOR FUEL FILTERS

FUEL CONSUMPTION & LOG

DC SYSTEM

AC SYSTEM

GENERATOR

INVERTER

REVERSE POLARITY

ELECTROLYSIS & ZINCS

BONDING

ELECTRICAL SAFETY

FUSE LOCATIONS/SPECS

FILLING

FRESH WATER PUMP

HOT WATER

WATER PURIFIER

RAW WATER SYSTEM

GENERAL

ENGINE RAW WATER

GRAY WATER SYSTEM

GENERAL

GRAY WATER SUMPS

BILGE PUMPS

COMMON DRAINS

GENERAL

ANCHOR WINDLASS & WASHER

PILOTHOUSE CURTAINS

PRIVACY & SUNSCREEN CURTAINS

TRANSOM DOOR & SEAT

STIDD SEAT POSITIONING

WINDSHIELD OPERATION

LUBRICATION

1.1

1.2

1.3

1.4

OPERATION

GENERAL

This manual has been compiled to help you operate your yacht with safety and pleasure. It
contains details of the yacht; the equipment supplied or fitted, its systems, and information on its
operation and maintenance. Please read it carefully, and familiarize yourself with the yacht
before using it.

If this is your first yacht, or you are changing to a type of yacht you are not familiar with, for your
own comfort and safety, please insure that you obtain handling and operating experience before
assuming command of the yacht. Your dealer or yacht club will be pleased to advise you of local
schools, or competent instructors.

PLEASE KEEP THIS MANUAL IN A SECURE PLACE ON THE BOAT, AND HAND IT OVER TO
THE NEW OWNER IF YOU EVER SELL THE CRAFT.

This Owner’s Manual is not intended to be a course in boating safety, boat handling, navigation
or general boating skills. It is the responsibility of the user to independently gain these skills.

Instead, this manual will serve as a reference for matters specific to the 40z. Standard options
are included in the manual with which your particular yacht may or may not be fitted. Custom
options may be addressed in an addendum.

QUICK START GUIDE (See CHAPTER 16)

A separate “Quick Start Guide” is included that briefly reviews the key items to check before
departure. Please review the topics in this manual before relying on the checklist – it is simply an
“at-a-glance” sheet to insure that you don’t overlook anything important.

OPERATING PROCEDURES – ENGINE INSPECTION

To access the propulsion system, the cockpit engine hatch must be raised. The procedure is as
follows:

Make sure personnel and equipment are clear of any moving parts before

- Turn ON house battery rocker switch (located over DC electrical panel)

- Turn ON DC main breaker & engine hatch breaker on the DC panel

- Activate the engine hatch lift with the black toggle switch in the starboard cockpit seat locker.

NAVIGATION

The builder installed navigation system includes autopilot w/compass, depth sounder, chart­plotter, and radar. Modern marine electronics are a subject unto themselves and you should refer
to the manuals that came with the equipment you purchased. However, here are a few points to
consider:

+ If you are unfamiliar with navigation, educate yourself before using the boat. Electronic

equipment is NOT a substitute for dead-reckoning navigation skills.

+ It is not recommended to rely solely on electronic charts- bring paper chart back-ups.
+ It is prudent to check (or have checked) your compass alignment once the boat is in your

primary area of operation. See the Ritchie instructions for compensation.

+ Check that all equipment is functioning, even if you intend not to use it.
+ Radar and its overlay projection on the plotter should be properly aligned (Double-check

when underway) See manual to adjust, tune and operate.

CHAPTER 1

operating.

CHAPTER 1

Compass Heading & Calibration

There are 3 heading references for navigation on the 40z: (1) The compass on the dash, (2)
Autopilot digital compass, and (3) GPS COG (Course Over Ground). All of these headings should
be within a degree or so of each other when underway. If not, it is recommended that differences
be recorded on a deviation card after following the calibration method outlined below or
better yet, employing the services of a compass adjuster. Use COG as the primary reference
at a time when you are not influenced by wind/wave/tidal set. The digital compass sensor is
located on a stringer outboard to starboard under the cabin sole. It is accessible by opening the
cabin sole hatch and looking aft.

Ritchie Ship’s Compass Calibration Method

1) With the compass in its intended position, but not finally secured, select a course on your chart
using two identifiable marks, buoys or landmarks that are within ten degrees (10°) of the
north/south line. Try to select this course so that you can maneuver your boat "down range" of
the marks selected.

2) From a position down range of the North/South marks, and keeping the marks lined up, run
the boat visually along the northerly course selected. Turn the port/starboard compensator on the
right side of the compass until the compass reads correctly.

3) Reversing direction, run the boat southerly, again keeping the marks lined up. If the compass
is not correct at this time, there is an alignment error. To correct, rotate the compass itself to
remove one half of this error. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 and then recheck this Step 3.

4) Simply repeat the procedures of Steps 1, 2 and 3, except this time, using an east/west course
and the fore/aft compensator on the aft side of the compass, although at this time any alignment
error should have been eliminated.

5) Upon completing the procedure, secure the compass in its final position.

Boat Speed Rather than a paddle wheel or sonic device, the Raymarine C120 plotter is used to
generate SOG (Speed Over Ground) that is displayed by the chart-plotter and may also be
shown in larger digits on the Autopilot display. Eventually, you will learn to approximate boat
speed through the water by relating it to RPM on the tachometer.

1.5

A facility that is unfamiliar with the 40z may require information before hauling the boat with a

Travelift or crane & straps. Refer to the illustration included at the back of this manual. The keel
(centerline of the boat) and chines (edges) should be used to position weight-bearing supports.
You will note that the fore and aft lift points are located approximately at either end of the
pilothouse... e.g. abeam of the windshield and the aft end of the hard top.

Point loading flat areas other than centerline and chine or setting the weight of

the hull on supports of insufficient area may result in damage to the hull.

- 7 -

OPERATION

Avoid storing steel or iron items such as tools nearby.

HAULING OUT

2.1

SAFETY EQUIPMENT

GENERAL

Spend time reviewing where your safety equipment is and how it functions BEFORE you need it.
Remember, the best way to protect yourself and others from accidents is to eliminate potential
causes of accidents before they occur. Good seamanship and common sense go a long way in
this endeavor. [See Figure 14.1]

Here is a safety checklist derived in part from the USCG Vessel Check List. State Regulations
may vary:

PFD’s

A wearable USCG approved personal flotation device (life-jacket) must be provided for each
person aboard. On the 40z, these can be types I, II, III or V. Also, one type IV throwable PFD
must be immediately available for use.

Children under 13 years of age are required to wear a USCG life jacket that fits when underway
unless they are in an enclosed cabin or belowdecks.

Visual Distress Signals (VDS)

You must carry VDS’s aboard. If operating between sunset and sunrise, they must be suitable for
night use and be within the age dates marked on the side of the flares. A minimum of 3 day/night
use combination pyrotechnic flares are required. For a list of USCG approved devices, see the
USCG recreational checklist.

Fire Extinguisher

In addition to the automatic fire suppression system fitted in the engine space, you are required to
carry at least one type B-1 extinguisher aboard, which is located outboard of the starboard helm
seat. This should be checked regularly.

EPIRB

Especially if operating offshore, an EPIRB (electronic position indicating radio beacon) is
recommended.

Ships Papers & Registration

You should carry the vessel’s registration papers and number plate.

Pollution Regulation Plaques

5”x8” Oil Discharge Plaque and a 4”x9” Waste Discharge Placard should be fixed were visible.

Charts & Light Lists

Charts, light lists and a USCG required copy of the Inland “Rules of the Road” Navigation Rules

Horn or Whistle

Recommended to signal intentions or signal position. For instance, when in a narrow channel or
the Intracoastal Waterway: To signal which side of another boat you will pass on, blow 1 blast if
you are passing to their starboard side and 2 blasts if passing on their port side. The Kahlenburg
horn has a repetitive automatic fog signal that can be activated for either underway or at anchor.

Life Raft

If you plan to be coastal cruising out of sight of land, it is prudent to carry a Coastal Life Raft
which come in compact sizes that can be stored in one of the aft cockpit lockers.

Heaving Line

These floating lines are available and handy to have ready in case of emergency or to simply trail
behind the boat when swimming, .with the end attached to one of the stern cleats.

CHAPTER 2

2.2

2.3

SAFETY EQUIPMENT

First Aid Kit

Not a place to scrimp. It is advisable to carry a good, comprehensive, and well-organized (by
injury) marine first-aid kit with manual. We recommend that it be stored in the head and that
everyone onboard be informed of its location. (Remember, you may be the one in need of it!)

Companionway Hatch Board or Closure

A teak board is provided with the label, “ DO NOT REMOVE WHILE UNDERWAY” to comply with
ISO requirements for cockpit draining and construction to prevent large waves from crashing
down into the cockpit, running forward entering the interior of the boat. Better to just secure the
companionway slider and lid. It’s quieter, prevents someone from being pitched below and
provides a Chart Kit navigation surface.

FUEL SHUT-OFF VALVES

The fuel shut-off valves are located on top of the fuel tanks and are accessible through pilothouse
settee lockers. Make sure you know how to shut off the fuel valve. (When the handle is
perpendicular to the hose, the valve is closed.) In case of a fuel fire, STOP any machinery and
close the valve to cut the supply of fuel to the fire/engine. If you should ever see fuel in the bilges,
turn off the valve, clean the bilges, and find the source of the leak immediately. Also note that
there are fuel shut off valves, normally left open, on the lower inboard aft corner of the fuel tanks,
which connect the two tanks together at the bottom for self-leveling. There is only one fuel level
sensor and that is on the starboard tank.

FIRE

Fire aboard a boat is a serious matter, and fire safety begins with fire prevention. You can reduce
the risk of fire by following common sense guidelines:

+ Do not allow debris or oily rags to collect in bilges or machinery spaces.
+ Understand your electrical system, allow only qualified marine electricians to work on it, and shut

down as many circuits as practical when leaving the boat. Do not leave appliances running while
unattended.

+ Have your fire suppression equipment inspected regularly and learn how to use it.

An automatic fire suppression system is installed on every boat in the engine space. It is heat
activated. Read the information that comes with the equipment. The system can also be manually
activated at the helm station. [See Helm Console Section] Because a diesel engine would
evacuate the suppression agent from the affected space, the system will shut down the engine
(and generator) when it discharges. If manually activating the system, the engine should be shut
down first. After the situation has stabilized, the shut-down feature can be over-ridden to restart
the engine. A loud warning alarm will sound when the system has been activated.

The hand-held fire extinguisher mounted outboard of the starboard helm seat is rated to fight type
A, B & C fires.

To extinguish a fire, the most effective method is to cut the source of fuel to the fire. In the case of
a diesel fuel fire, the fuel tank valves should be closed. In the case of an electrical fire, the main
battery switches or main disconnect breakers should be turned off. Fire needs oxygen to burn, so
if a fire should occur in an enclosed area, the best course of action may be to exit the area and
seal it from the outside by closing all means of air intake

CHAPTER 2

CHAPTER 3

INTRO - THE TOP 10 CAUSES OF ENGINE FAILURE

It doesn’t happen often and if you’re familiar with the most common causes of engine failure you can cut
down on the chances of a breakdown. As an introductory to this chapter, we want to familiarize you with
this list of causes, compiled by Motorboating Magazine (February 2006). Here are the Top Ten to be

aware of:

1. NO FUEL: This is probably less of a problem on a fuel-efficient MJM than on other boats, but lack of
owner attention to fuel consumption is the primary culprit for engine failure. A boat’s fuel tank can be
nearly dry as a bone – even when the gauge claims there’s a 1/4 of a tank left. This makes sense when
you realize that at cruising speed, the gauge shows the tanks reading higher than when the boat is at
rest. A good rule of thumb is to never pass a fuel dock (no matter what the price) if your gauge is showing
less than 1/3 full.

1b. AIR IN FUEL LINE: If air gets drawn into the fuel lines because of either a small leak in a fuel line
connection or the Racor Filter lid gasket/filter basket tabs have interfered with the lid being secured fully,
you may find the engine will turn over, but won’t start. Check the Racor to insure the fuel level is within
an inch of the top. Check the engine owner manual for the location of a manual primer pump.

1c. COMPUTER SETTING: On the Yanmar electronic engines, we’ve encountered several instances

where after shutting down the engine for several hours (on a picnic), it was only possible to start the
engine after many tries or not at all. The problem was that the setting that determines the amount of fuel
to be injected into the engine upon starting was not set high enough.

2. DIRTY FUEL: Engine problems are caused by dirt and water in the fuel. Debris, stirred up from the
bottom of the tank by wave action, is drawn into the fuel line and clogs the fuel filter element. Starved for
fuel, the engine begins to run poorly, and then not at all. Water in the fuel can drive you mad. Moisture
condenses out of the highly humid air on the inside walls of a fuel tank, then runs down into the fuel.
Water can also be introduced at the fuel dock from a contaminated fuel supply. Fuel floats on top of
water and the fuel pick ups are near the bottom of the tank. A fuel/water separator protects against this
by handily extracting the water. Check the bowl daily and drain off the accumulated water. For severe
contamination, use a fuel drying additive.

3. FUEL BUGS: Diesel engines suffer from microbial bugs growing in the fuel. If left unchecked, these
critters clog filters. If you leave the same diesel fuel in the tank for any length of time, a fuel conditioner
similar to that supplied with your boat by the builder will kill the bugs and break up any hydrocarbon
residue into particles that will burn completely in the combustion process.

4. TIRED/DAMAGED WATER PUMP IMPELLER: As boats age or if
an engine isn’t operated for a long period of time, a worn-out circulating
water pump is another engine killer. Impeller blades are commonly
made of a rubberized material that stiffens or distorts over time and can
break off entirely, reducing coolant flow and clogging the heat
exchanger. Periodic engine maintenance procedures can prevent this
problem. A spare is provided in the Yanmar Spares Kit. Shown at right
is an impeller that would have soon failed. It was discovered, then
replaced during the 50 hour inspection on a 29z that had not been run
for 11 months. Another cause for impeller disintegration is running the
engine with the raw water intake shut off. By the time that the overheating is discovered and you shut
down the engine, the impeller may already have been destroyed or damaged. This happened on a 34z
when the operator forgot to be sure that the raw water intake valve was in the proper position.

5. HARD HOSE: Another issue to be concerned about with older boats. As water intake hoses age,
they lose their resiliency and collapse under suction, causing a restriction in the flow of engine coolant.
This results in over-heating.

PROPULSION SYSTEM

CHAPTER 3

Prevention is easy: Visually inspect cooling hoses and squeeze them to be sure they retain shape and
set.

6. CLOGGED INTAKE: Floating debris in the water is another culprit. Things like discarded plastic

baggies, weeds, etc. can plug up the raw-water intake. You can avoid this problem by visually inspecting
the strainer basket. When removing debris, be sure to properly replace the seal, otherwise the pump will
lose suction. Smearing the seal with Vaseline or other marine-grade grease helps.

7. HARD KNOCKS: Collision with an underwater obstacle that damages the propulsion system. Often

you can still operate the boat at low RPM to return to port, being careful to avoid excessive vibration that
might otherwise compound the damage by damaging the transmission. The problem may be corrected in
a day or so without hauling by an experienced diver who has access to a prop shop where the blades can
be repaired and the prop re-balanced, then re-installed.

8. BAD BATTERY: Marine starting batteries die from old age and neglect. Keep the terminals and

posts clean from that green corrosion that builds up, restricting the flow of current – preventing them from
fully charging. Periodically have your batteries tested to determine their condition and expected longevity.
The 40z is equipped with a “parallel” switch which can be turned on to employ the 400 ampere-hour
house bank in starting the engine.

9. STALE GASOLINE: Not applicable

10. SAGGING BELT: As V-belts wear, they stretch and begin to slip. Consequently, alternators and

water pumps don’t spin to their full speed. Batteries may not fully charge and coolant circulates
sluggishly. The solution is to check belt tension regularly and tighten belts when necessary. Drive belts
can also snap. The only way to avoid this malady is to replace them once they begin to show wear.
Spare belts are provided in the Yanmar spares kit

PROPULSION SYSTEM

!"#$%&'()(*%+(,"#-',)%!')"%./(01%23#$%45-(0%6-(5%

To run well, a diesel engine requires only clean fuel, clean lubricating oil, coolant, and lots of air.
Below are ten important maintenance issues that diesel mechanics wish their customers knew:

1. Don’t baby the engine. Diesels don’t like to idle in neutral, or even in gear at low speeds; they
do like to work hard under load. What’s cruising RPM? Generally, 75-80% of the maximum RPM.
Excessive idling leads to gradual build-up of detrimental varnish on the cylinders, and deposits
soot and carbon on the engine’s valves and in the exhaust system, particularly at the manifold
injection elbow where raw cooling water exiting the engine mates with the exhaust gases. Run it
hard. However...after running at cruising RPM for several hours, a brief cool-down at idle speed,
with no load, is beneficial. A few minutes is enough.

2. Give your engine clean fuel. Fuel is “contaminated” when it contains water, sediment, other
solids, or biological organisms, some of which thrive in diesel fuel. To minimize contamination,
don’t store your boat for the winter or let it sit around for weeks at a time with fuel tanks only
partly full. A full tank minimizes condensation of water vapor on the tank’s interior and the growth
of micro-organisms. Fuel filters trap sediment, sludge, water and organic material and should be
changed at periodic intervals.

3. Be conservative in your estimate of fuel consumption. When under way, do not delay re­fueling to the point where you have expended nearly all the fuel in the tank. The last 20% should
be held in reserve. To suck up the last few gallons is to chance sucking up water (tank
condensate), sludge, and other contaminants - perhaps even air - into your fuel lines.

4. Know how to vent (“bleed”) the air out of your fuel system. Air locks in diesel fuel systems
are a fact of life. The typical diesel fuel system operates with a lift pump (a vacuum pump) that
lifts or sucks fuel out of the tank, draws it through the pump, then sends it to the filters and
injectors, where the injector pump sends fuel to the individual cylinders for combustion. Whenever
you open the fuel line between the tank and the engine (for example, to change a filter element)
air enters the line. Air may also be sucked into the fuel line through cracked seals and gaskets,
poorly fitted connectors and clamps, via the pick-up tube in the fuel tank, etc. This air must be
removed, because even a tiny air bubble in the fuel line will block the flow of fuel, and without
fuel, the engine will not start; if running, air in the fuel line will cause it to stop.

To clear your fuel line of air, you must vent or “bleed” it out. Consult your engine’s manual to
identify the bleeding nuts; paint them with white nail polish so you can easily find them again, in
the dark, at sea. Given decent access to the engine, bleeding or venting air is a simple procedure
that everyone should be able to perform. Using the engine manual, teach yourself how to do this.

5. Be diligent about checking your lube oil and oil filter. Diesel engines are rough on oil and
usually require more frequent oil and oil filter changes than comparable gasoline engines. Follow
the engine manual’s recommendation for service intervals. Carry spares on board. Between oil
changes, use the dipstick to check the oil level. Top it off as necessary from your on-board lube
oil inventory, but do not exceed the “full” mark on the dipstick; more is NOT better.

6. Minimize risk of fire. Diesel engines vibrate a lot, and the typical marine diesel has a lot of
wiring and hoses attached to it, crossing it, behind it and near it. Over time, as the engine
vibrates, the fasteners may loosen and fail, the wiring and hoses droop or fall. One hates to see a
loose hose or wire (such as the primary wiring harness, or the power supply to your fuel pump, or
a hose to the hydraulic pump) cross and contact a hot exhaust manifold, for example; this could
be a prescription for fire due to abrasion of insulation around wire, or chafing through the wall of a
hose. From time to time, inspect your engine compartment for these potential risks. Add chafing
protection, replace worn insulation, and supplement the fasteners if necessary. Consider re­routing wires and hoses where appropriate.

7. Know how to trouble-shoot the cooling system. Since overheating is a common problem
familiarize yourself with engine’s cooling systems: the raw water (sea-water) system, as well as
the fresh water (internal circulating coolant) system. The most likely causes of overheating
are:

* Raw-water valve closed.

* Raw-water through-hull blocked externally. Check for a plastic bag, or a clump of sea grass or
other material, covering or plugging the inlet.

* Raw-water filter / strainer clogged with sediment, sand, goo, grass, or living critters such as
barnacles, jelly fish, and algae.

* Defective or destroyed impeller in raw water pump. The impeller should be replaced every year
or two, as the rubber vanes become brittle with age and may snap off.

* Heat exchanger dirty or clogged up with sediment and other deposits. The entire raw water
cooling system should be flushed periodically to remove salt and sediment deposits.

* Exhaust elbow restricted by carbon deposits or other solids, reducing discharge of cooling water
and exhaust gases. Routinely run the boat at high RPM for several minutes to clear.

* Thermostat stuck closed; likely will require removal or replacement. (Note: Some diesel engines
operate OK - temporarily - without a thermostat.) Coolant temperature of 170-180o F is normal.

* Low level of coolant (50-50 mix of antifreeze-water). Coolant levels should be checked routinely
at the expansion tank, adding more as needed.

* Broken or slipping V-belt, which drives the water pumps and the alternator. Even a new belt
deserves re-tensioning and inspection. Suspect slippage or wear if you see dark “belt dust”
settling at the engine’s base. Belt tension is OK if pressure deflects the belt by about 1/2 inch.

* Overloading of the engine: Rope wrapped around propeller shaft, dirty bottom, fouled propeller,
or air leaks in the raw water cooling system. Cracked or collapsed hose? Hose clamps tight?

8. Know your fuel additives. When crude oil is refined as diesel fuel, it acquires additives to
reduce smoke, prevent pre-ignition (“knocking”), improve its cetane rating, etc. Few additives
further enhance fuel. Some diesel mechanics actually recommend: Biocides, such as Killem and
Biobor, lubricants, such as Lubricity and Stanadyne Performance Formula, and fuel stabilizers,
such as Sta-Bil and Pri-D. BUT 1) Follow the instructions on the container. 2) Routinely, a little bit
is better than a lot.and 3) Be guided by your mechanic’s advice.

9. Monitor for exhaust leaks. From time to time, when the engine is operating, inspect the
complete exhaust system from the engine to the through-hull and overboard discharge. Look for
leaks, both exhaust (air) and water. Major leaks will be obvious, but early signs of leaks due to
hairline cracks in hoses and water pot muffler systems may not be. Diesel exhaust contains acidic
sulfur and other gasses that may poison the air within the boat. To detect air leaks, look for tell­tale traces of black soot. Water leaks should also be immediately repaired. Leaks never resolve
spontaneously; they must be addressed as quickly as possible.

10. Properly dispose of hazardous waste. Be sure to properly dispose of used coolant, used
engine oil and transmission fluid, contaminated fuel, old filters soaked with fuel and oil, etc. These
fluids are generally poisonous to people, pets, wildlife, and the environment, and some of them
can be recycled.

Edited from an article by Captain Bernie Weiss at www.AtlanticYachtDelivery.com.

3.0

PROPULSION SYSTEM

PROPULSION SYSTEM

3.1 GENERAL Your 40z is propelled by twin Volvo diesel 370 HP D6 engines with 24

overhead valves, turning (via IPS transmission) forward facing duo-prop propellers. The
dual-lever electronic control acts as a combination throttle and gear selector. Care should be
taken when shifting. Always allow the transmission to engage the new gear before throttling
up. If the two levers are set to within 200 RPM of one another, they will automatically synchronize.

The engine should never be running when swimmers are near the boat.

Unscrew Cap when
engine cold to check
COOLANT LEVEL

OIL LEVEL DIPSTICK See Page 65 of Volvo IPS Operator’s Manual

for greater detail of engine components

NEW ENGINE BREAK-IN While running the engine for the first time and after

shut-down, check for proper engine oil pressure, diesel fuel leaks, engine oil leaks, coolant leaks,
proper operation of the indicators and gauges, proper exhaust color, engine vibrations and

sounds, If temperature is high (a) Is the raw water intake seacock open at the base of the IPS

drives? (b) Are the raw water strainers clogged?
The engine may seize if it is operated when seawater intake is restricted or
if load is applied without allowing the water temperature (engine) to warm up.

During the first 10 hours of operation, full load should only be applied for short periods. Never run
the engine for a long period at a constant RPM during this period. Higher oil consumption is
typical at this time, so carefully observe oil pressure and engine temperature, exhaust color and
check engine oil and coolant levels frequently... i.e. daily.

CHAPTER 3

FUEL FILTER
w/bleeding pump
& nipple

RAW WATER
INTAKE STRAINERS

CHAPTER 3

3.2

Your engine passes seawater (raw water) through an intake in the IPS drive unit under the hull
through a heat exchanger where it cools the engine’s coolant. This coolant is circulated through
the engine and returns to the heat exchanger. For the engine to keep cool, it must have an
adequate supply of raw water and coolant. Periodically check to be sure it’s clean and check the
coolant level by opening the caps on top of the engine. Coolant should be close to the top of the
reservoir on top of the front port corner of the engines.

Do not attempt to remove the coolant cap of a hot engine.

For details on what type of coolant to use, consult the engine operator’s manual or the
maintenance schedule included in this manual. As the water and exhaust exit out the back of the
drives, it is not as easy to check raw water flow. It is recommended to pay close attention to water
temperature (167°-194° F is normal) at the outset.

3.3

Both the engine and transmission use oil for lubrication. The
transmission will tend to use less oil than the engine, but both
should be checked frequently. For the proper type of oils to
use (which may depend on the service area and conditions)
consult the engine manufacturer’s operator’s manual.

The engine oil may be checked between the engines by
pulling up the red dipsticks, at least ! hour after running of
the engines to allow the oil to drain down from the upper part
of the engine.

The transmission dipstick is red and unscrews. It is difficult to
find and reach as one must get down between engines aft,
move aft then reach behind the IPS drives to unscrew these
caps. A small price to pay perhaps for the wonders of how
well the IPS operates.

Be sure not to overfill this reservoir as damage to the engine could result.

3.4

Read page 79 and pages 89-91 of the Volvo Operators
Manual (VOM) carefully. In addition to transom zincs, there
are two engine zincs plus an iron anode in the exhaust cavity
of the drive and care must be taken of the drive housing and
coating of the propulsion unit. The props and propulsion unit
have “PropSpeed” applied when delivered. Be sure to inspect
and recoat if there are any scratches or whenever the boat is
hauled. The timing for replacing zincs varies depending on
the characteristics of the seawater, the amount of electrical
current in marinas, or could indicate (if excessive wear is
noted) an electrical short on the boat, etc. Inspect the engine
zinc periodically at the time of oil changes and remove the corroded area on the surface,
replacing them when deteriorated to less than 50% of original size. Otherwise corrosion-cooling
system will occur and water leakage or parts breakage will result. Be sure to close the raw water
intakes at the base of drives, before removing a plug to replace a zinc.

COOLING

LUBRICATION (IPS 500 Drive Shown)

CORROSION PROTECTION

PROPULSION SYSTEM

Transmission Dipstick
(Hidden aft of IPS Drives)

RAW WATER INTAKE VALVE
Shown OPEN

CHAPTER 3

3.5

Diesel engines use a large
quantity of air for

combustion. The
engine of the 40z gets this air thru
grills under the cockpit coaming, both
port and starboard. Be sure that these
aren’t blocked with gear on deck when
underway.

3.6

The EVC Control Panel allows the operator to perform settings and choose
information displayed on the engine LCD Display screen below. See Volvo
Operator’s Manual for settings and options.

PROPULSION SYSTEM

ENGINE CONTROL/DISPLAY PANEL

PROPULSION SYSTEM

3.7 ENGINE CONTROL LEVERS

There 5 positions (front to back). FORWARD

IDLE FORWARD

NEUTRAL

IDLE REVERSE

REVERSE

The port and starboard engine RPMs will synchronize
automatically when within 200 RPM of each other.

Emergency Shifting If a fault occurs which prevents
electronic gear shifting with the control levers; it is
possible to shift manually using the procedure outlined
on page 56-57 of the VPOM.

SUDDEN MOVEMENT HAZARD

This control lever governs both throttle and shifting functions. The boat may start to move
abruptly when the marine gear is engaged: Ensure the boat is clear of all obstacles
forward and aft. Cautiously shift to the IDLE FORWARD position then quickly back to
NEUTRAL position. Observe whether the boat moves as you expect.

Before starting the engine, make sure (1) the raw water intake seacock over the IPS drive
flange is in the OPEN position (2) the raw water strainer is clean (3) the engine has
sufficient oil and coolant (4) transmission fluid is at the proper level (5) there are no
restrictions to the air intake grills (6) the fuel valves over the tanks are OPEN (8) the
HOUSE and BOTH ENGINE battery banks are turned ON (9) the throttle is in the neutral
position (9) no one is in the water near the boat and (10) all machinery space hatches are
closed.

3.8 STARTING

TURN ON ENGINES Turn the spring-loaded Ignition
Keys clockwise to the first detent a position

A long continuous beep indicates that the self-test
function has failed.

START ENGINES by holding one then the second Ignition Key to the right with pressure
to position III on the outer key rim, for several seconds until the engine starts. Note: If you
can’t hear the engines (These are quiet boats), look at the RPM on the display to see that it
climbs to 600-700. Then release the key so it springs back to position I. The engine will not
start unless the shift levers are in NEUTRAL. If repeated start attempts are needed, the key
must be turned back to position 0 first.

Never engage the starter motor (turning key hard to the right) while the

engine is running. This may damage the pinion and/or ring gear.

IF BATTERY VOLTAGE is low and you have difficulty turning over the engine, a
momentary. Parallel Switch is located next to two Engine Start Battery Switches on the
electrical panel belowdecks. By pushing this switch on, you add the capacity of the house
bank to the start battery. Once started, turn OFF the Parallel Switch. It is for emergency use
only.

TO REV THE ENGINES out of gear. See Volvo Penta Owner Manual.

PROPULSION SYSTEM

3.9 ALARM DISPLAY

When the ignition key is first turned ON to position I, you may hear an audible alarm signal
and see a “Stop Sign” appear on the Display, indicating that the diagnostic function
has registered a malfunction.

Please refer to Volvo Operator’s Manual chapters for detailed information about
FAULTS and recommended action starting on page 40 of the VPOM.

3.10 STOPPING

Put both engine controls in NEUTRAL. Turn & hold the spring-loaded Ignition Key with pressure to the
left until the engine stops. If unsuccessful, there’s a clearly labeled “Emergency Shutdown” button in
the upper middle poside of the engine.

Make sure to turn OFF Engine Battery Switches on the electrical panel when leaving the
boat.

Engine Stop & Restart after Crash-Stop If the engine otherwise stops, the following
procedure for re-start must be followed.

1. Put control lever in NEUTRAL

2. Acknowledge any ALARM

3. TURN & HOLD ignition switch left to OFF until all lamps have gone out.

4. Then TURN the ignition system to the ON (not the engine Start) position only.

5. Acknowledge any ALARM

6. START the engine by: TURNING & HOLDING the ignition switch to the right.

7. STOP the engine. Wait again until all lamps have gone out.

8. RESTART the Engine.

3.11 OPERATING PARAMETERS

While it’s good to run the engine at top speed periodically for a minute or so,
“Max Cruising Speed” is at least 10% below full throttle of 3500 rpm, or 3150 rpm..
While running, pay attention to the engine gauges on the LCD display. A significant
change in oil or coolant temperature, oil pressure, or voltage should investigated
immediately before the engine is damaged.

OIL PRESSURE – Normally between 4.5 and 5 bars, except lower when idling

COOLANT TEMPERATURE – Normally between 167 and 194 degrees F.

CHARGING – Normally about 14 Volts when underway.

Depending on hull structure and engine installation, engine and hull resonance may be
greater at some speeds than others. This is normal and you will learn to pick the sweet
spots. If you hear any abnormal sounds, stop the engine and inspect.

If any warning lights or buzzers activate, stop the engine
immediately. Determine the cause and repair the problem before
continuing to operate.

CHAPTER 3

4.1

4.2

STEERING CONTROL SYSTEM

STEERING SYSTEM

The 40z has an integrated, electronically controlled power steering system which through electric
motors rotate the two IPS pod drives below the hull. When running, the 40z is steered as with
outboards or sterndrives. Thrust of the propellers is directed more immediately and precisely from

side to side through a 26° arc to steer the boat.... rather than bouncing the prop wash from a

conventional straight shaft propulsion unit off a rudder.

When the throttle/shift levers are put in (N) neutral and a button pushed to activate the IPS
joystick: Control of the pod drives is transferred from the throttle/shift levers to the IPS computer
controlled joystick. When the joystick is activated, the steering wheel locks and no longer
functions. Do not try to force it or damage may occur.

Emergency Alignment If a fault occurs which prevents one or both of the propulsion units from
being operated with the steering wheel, it is possible to align the faulty propulsion unit(s) so that
its aimed straight ahead (and won’t act like a rudder), so as not to impair operation of either the
remaining propulsion unit or the steering of the boat with the two engines. See pages 58-60 of
the VPOM.

Emergency Steering These controls are attached to the engine with cables, so if the electronic
steering ever failed on both propulsion units, a steering method using the two engines can be
employed. This is outlined on pages 60-61 of the VPOM.

IPS JOYSTICK DOCKING CONTROL

This control is used only for docking and
maneuvering at slow speed. Learn to handle
the joystick in a safe and correct manner
before you start using the function in tight
quarters. When the joystick is active,
the normal engine controls are Neutral

and inactive. A computer operates the drives and

shifting. Rotation of the wheel is frozen and it
should not be turned, as damage may occur.

To Activate: Both engines must be running
and the engine control handles must be IN
NEUTRAL. Press “DOCKING” button. A beep
confirms it is active.

To Deactivate: Either move the engine
controls OUT OF NEUTRAL (forward or
reverse) or press “DOCKING” button again. A
double beep will confirm that it is OFF.

Boost Function In windy weather or current when you need more oomph, push the right
“HIGH” button after having frst activated the “Docking” button. A beep will confirm it’s engaged.

Deactivate by pushing the button again. You’ll hear a double-beep confirmation.

DPS - “DYNAMIC POSITIONING SYSTEM” OPTION. If the boat is equipped with this option to
hold the boat on it’s heading and GPS position, it is activated by pushing the upper left button and
deactivated by pushing it again, or simply engaging the engine controls.

Maneuvering with Joystick Follow the arrows. Lean the joystick post in the direction you’d like
to go. Release and the thrust stops. The boat may keep moving, so you may have to tap it in the
opposite direction to stop it. The top of the joystick is rotated to orient the bow and stern, or to

CHAPTER 4

4.3

E127 GPS
Plotter/Radar

IPS Joystick

‘Trim Tabs

STEERING CONTROL SYSTEM

spin the boat completely around on its own axis. Pretty simple Takes some practice until it
becomes completely intuitive.

Joystick Calibration When moving the boat sideways if it seems that the bow or stern moves
more than the other see page 109 of the Volvo Penta Operator’s Manual to make adjustments.

HELM STATION NOTE: Panel Layout may vary between boats.

The helm station console is where most of the operational controls of the boat are located.
Become familiar with these before you need to use them. In addition, make sure that when you
are using the boat, even if you are not using a specific piece of equipment, that the circuit
breakers are on for any equipment you might need.

i70 Multi/Depth

Volvo Control Panel

)

Throttle/Shift Levers

Engine Start/Stop

Windlass Up/Down

FireBoy System
Bilge Water Alarm 4”

CHAPTER 4

P70R
Autopilot

Bilge Pumps (3)