MJM Yachts 36z User Manual

1

Box 8, Newport RI 02840

Tel [phone] Fax [phone]

August 2014

Dear 36z Owner:

Congratulations on becoming Captain and Owner of the world’s best built and most fuel efficient yacht of its size.
The enclosed copy of the 36z Owner’s Manual should further contribute to your enjoyment and proficiency afloat.

This manual was created jointly with Zurn Yacht Design, Boston BoatWorks and MJM Yachts. Our experience
with the 172 boats (40z’s, 34z’s and 29z’s included) built to date has been incorporated to make this manual as

useful and relevant as possible. Keep in mind there maybe some variances such as location of the breakers on the
panel. And, from time-to-time we will change specifications to keep pace with changes made to improve the boat.

When addressing a problem with a specific piece of equipment, this 36z Owner’s Manual is to be regarded only as a
preliminary source of information. The equipment manufacturer’s own manual with trouble-shooting procedures,

etc. is the primary source and authority.

An ISO CE Mark “Owner’s Manual” accompanies, and forms part of, this MJM produced 36z Owner Manual. This
booklet has many universal handling and operating tips worth reviewing.

This Owner’s Manual is designed to be a living document, not only for builder updates but for your own use and
record. Each boat is provided with a copy of the current Manual organized in a STAPLES “Mini-Ring” type binder

that allows you to add pages as needed.

One of the great advantages of purchasing a series-built or semi-custom design is that owners have the benefit of
learning from one another. So, with your continued input and comments we can keep adding useful information and

helpful hints to this manual.

Part of the ISO CE Mark Certification Program is confirmation by the owner that the manual has been received.
Please sign the extra page No. 3 included in the Manual as a receipt and return it in the stamped envelope provided.

Best wishes for fair winds and sunny skies. On behalf of the builder and designer, we are most appreciative, and I
am particularly honored, that you have chosen the 36z.

CEO & Founder

Note: This manual is published in accordance with ISO standard 10240:1995E Small Craft - Owner’s Manual

36z

Length Overall 39.3’ 12.0m

Length on Deck 36.0’ 11.0m

Length Waterline 33.3’ 10.2m

Beam 11.0’ 3.4m

Hull Draft/Max Draft with Drives Down 2.5’ .8m

Displacement (1/2 load) 13,100 lbs 5.9 mt

Fuel Tanks (combined) 200 gals 756 ltrs

Fresh Water Tank 100 gals 378 ltrs

Air Heiight (w/ radar) 9.0’ 2.8m

BOAT INFORMATION

MODEL 36z DE Down East
HIN NUMBER EOU36Z29H415
DESIGN PATENT US D475 338S (3 June 2003)
DELIVERY DATE June 2014
REGISTRATION NO. ________________________________

ENGINES Yanmar
MODEL Twin 6BY3-260Z
SERIAL NOs. 10179061-004914 & 1271051-005014
MACK BORING SERVICE 508-946-9200
YANMAR MJM CONTACT Rick Mahoney 508-995-1028

DRIVE UNITS Yanmar
MODEL ZT370-E 1.78:1

PROPELLORS ZT350/ZT370s 370-196350-09720 22RH

370-196350-09420 22LH

MJM YACHTS LLC Robert L. Johnstone
PHONE [phone] Mobile
EMAIL [e-mail]
ADDRESS Box 8, Newport RI 02840

ZURN YACHT DESIGN Doug Zurn
PHONE [phone]
ADDRESS 89 Front St., Marblehead MA 01945

BOSTON BOATWORKS LLC Scott Smith & Mark Lindsay
PHONES 207-252-7190
617-561-9111
EMAIL [e-mail]
ADDRESS 256 Marginal St., E. Boston MA 02128

BBW SERVICE CENTRAL Erik Rochelle
PHONE [phone]
EMAIL [e-mail]

DEALER East Coast Yacht Sales
BROKER Ben Knowles
207-939-0154

AUTHORITY:
ADDRESS:

PHONE:
WEBSITE:
CLASSIFICATION:

CAPACITY

PERSONS:

3

International Marine Certification Institute
Rue Abbe Cuypers 3

B-1040 Bruxelles, Belgique
[phone]

www.imci.org
ISO CE Mark Design Category B Offshore (EC Directive 94/25/EC) for

craft designed for offshore voyages (1) where the vessel is correctly
handled in the sense of good seamanship and operated at a speed

appropriate to the prevailing sea state and (2) Designed for waves of

up to 4m significant height and a wind of Beaufort force 8 or less. Such
conditions may be encountered on offshore voyages of sufficient length
or on coasts where shelter may not always be immediately available.
Such conditions may also be experienced on inland seas of sufficient
size for the wave height to be generated.

Maximum 12 Persons

Signature

Printed Name

Boat Name

Address

City, State, Zip

Tel.

Email

Denotes an extreme intrinsic hazard exits which would result in high probability of
death or irreparable injury if proper precautions are not taken.

Denotes a hazard exists which can result in injury or death if proper precautions
are not taken.

Denotes a reminder of safety practices or directs attention to unsafe practices

which could result in personal injury or damage to the craft or components.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

RECEIPT BY OWNER In compliance with ISO 10240:1995(E) the owner hereby certifies receipt
of this manual and has read and agrees to the terms of the Builder’s Limited Warranty included herein.

NOTE: PLEASE SIGN ONE OF THE TWO COPIES OF THIS PAGE AND RETURN IT IN THE
ATTACHED STAMPED ENVELOPE TO: MJM YACHTS at 39 Washington St. Newport RI 02840.

Hull #

Date

CHAPTER 1

1.0

1.1

1.2

1.3

1.4

1.5

CHAPTER 2

2.0

2.1

2.2

3.1

3.2

3.3

3.4

3.5

3.6

3.7

3.8

3.9

3.10

3.11

CHAPTER 5

5.0

5.1

5.2

5.3

5.4

CHAPTER 6

6.0

6.1

6.2

6.3

6.4

6.5

6.6

6.7

6.8

6.9

6.10

6.11

6.12

OPERATION

GENERAL
QUICK START GUIDE
OPERATING PROCEDURES

NAVIGATION
TOWING
HAULING OUT

SAFETY EQUIPMENT

GENERAL
FUEL SHUT-OFFS
FIRE

GENERAL
COOLING
NEW ENGINE BREAK IN
LUBRICATION
ZINCS
AIR INTAKES
ENGINE CONTROL DISPLAYS
THROTTLE/SHIFT
START ENGINE
ALARMS
STOPPING
OPERATION

FUEL SYSTEM

GENERAL
FUEL SHUT OFFS

FILLING THE TANKS
RACOR FILTERS
FUEL CONSUMPTION & LOG

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

GENERAL
12 VOLT DC SYSTEM
120 VOLT 60 CYCLE AC SYSTEM
INVERTER/CHARGER
SHORE POWER
AC GENERATOR
REVERSE POLARITY
ELECTROLYSIS & CORROSION
BONDING
ELECTRICAL SAFETY
BREAKER & FUSE LOCATIONS
RAYMARINE FUSE LOCATIONS
INLINE & ANL FUSE LOCATIONS

CHAPTER 7

7.0

7.1

7.2

7.3

7.4

7.5

CHAPTER 8

8.0

8.1

8.2

CHAPTER 9 SANITATION SYSTEM

9.1 VACUFLUSH

CHAPTER 10 GRAY WATER SYSTEM

10.1 GENERAL

10.2 GRAY WATER TANK

10.3 BILGE PUMPS

10.4 HIGH WATER ALARM

10.5 COMMON DRAINS

CHAPTER 11 OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT

11.0 OPEN

11.1 GENERAL

11.2 ANCHOR WINDLASS

11.3 PILOTHOUSE CURTAINS

11.4 PRIVACY/SUNSCREEN CURTAINS

11.5 REFRIGERATION

11.6 COOKTOP

11.7 MICROWAVE/OVEN

11.8 AIR-CONDITIONING

11.9 DIESEL HEATER

11.10 CLARION STEREO

11.11 SIRIUS SATELLITE SYSTEM

11.12 TELEVISION

11.13 FLIR NIGHT VISION

CHAPTER 12 ROUTINE MAINTENANCE

YANMAR SCHEDULE

ENGINE DIAGRAMS

CHAPTER 13 SEASONAL MAINTENANCE

CHAPTER 14 FIGURES

14.0 SYSTEMS

14.14 TRUCKING CHECKLIST

CHAPTER 15 LIMITED WARRANTY

CHAPTER 16 QUICK START

4

TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER 3 PROPULSION SYSTEM

INTRO – TOP 10 REASONS of ENGINE FAILURE

3.0

CHAPTER 4 STEERING SYSTEM

4.0 STEERING SYSTEM

4.1 JOYSTICK DOCKING

4.2 HELM STATION

4.3 CONSOLE SWITCHES

4.4 POWER TRIM CONTROLS

4.5 BOW THRUSTER (Option)

4.6 TRIM TABS

4.7 AUTOPILOT

4.8 WINDSHIELD WIPERS

FRESHWATER SYSTEM

GENERAL

FILLING

USING & MAINTAINING

DOCK INLET

HOT WATER

WATER PURIFIER

RAW WATER SYSTEM

GENERAL

ENGINE RAW WATER

ADDITIONAL RAW WATER USES

1.0

1.1

1.2

1.3

OPERATION

GENERAL

This manual has been compiled to help you operate your yacht with safety and pleasure. It
contains details of the yacht; the equipment supplied or fitted, its systems, and information on its

operation and maintenance. Please read it carefully, and familiarize yourself with the yacht
before using it.

If this is your first yacht, or you are changing to a type of yacht you are not familiar with, for your
own comfort and safety, please insure that you obtain handling and operating experience before

assuming command of the yacht. Your dealer or yacht club will be pleased to advise you of local
schools, or competent instructors.

PLEASE KEEP THIS MANUAL IN A SECURE PLACE ON THE BOAT, AND HAND IT OVER TO
THE NEW OWNER IF YOU EVER SELL THE CRAFT.

This Owner’s Manual is not intended to be a course in boating safety, boat handling, navigation
or general boating skills. It is the responsibility of the user to independently gain these skills.

Instead, this manual will serve as a reference for matters specific to the 36z. Standard options
are included in the manual with which your particular yacht may or may not be fitted. Custom

options may be addressed in an addendum.

QUICK START GUIDE (See CHAPTER 16)

A separate “Quick Start Guide” is included that briefly reviews the key items to check before
departure. Please review the topics in this manual before relying on the checklist – it is simply an

“at-a-glance” sheet to insure that you don’t overlook anything important.

OPERATING PROCEDURES – ENGINE INSPECTION

To access the propulsion system, the cockpit engine hatch must be raised. The procedure is as
follows:

Make sure personnel and equipment are clear of any moving parts before

- Turn ON house battery switch (located in top right of DC electrical panel)

- Turn ON DC main disconnect breaker & engine hatch breaker at the DC panel

- Activate the lift with the small black rubber toggle switch located in the starboard cockpit seat
locker.

NAVIGATION

The optional builder installed navigation system includes autopilot w/compass, depth-sounder,
chart-plotter, and radar. Modern marine electronics are a subject unto themselves and you should

refer to the manuals that came with the equipment you purchased. However, here are a few
points to consider:

! If you are unfamiliar with navigation, educate yourself before using the boat. Electronic

equipment is NOT a substitute for dead-reckoning navigation skills.

! It is not recommended to rely solely on electronic charts- bring paper chart back-ups.
! It is prudent to check (or have checked) your compass alignment once the boat is in your

primary area of operation. See the Ritchie instructions for compensation.

! Check that all equipment is functioning, even if you intend not to use it.
! Radar and its overlay projection on the plotter should be properly aligned (Double-check

when underway) See manual to adjust, tune and operate.

CHAPTER 1

operating.

5

CHAPTER 1

Compass Heading & Calibration

There are 3 heading references for navigation on the 36z: (1) The compass on the dash, (2)
Autopilot digital compass, and (3) GPS COG (Course Over Ground). All of these headings should

be within a degree or so of each other when underway. If not, it is recommended that differences
be recorded on a deviation card after following the calibration method outlined below or

employing the services of a compass adjuster. Use COG as the primary reference at a time
when you are not influenced by wind/wave/tidal set. The digital compass sensor is located on a

stringer outboard to port under the cabin sole. It is accessible by opening the cabin sole hatch
and looking aft and to port.

Ritchie Ship’s Compass Calibration Method

1) With the compass in its intended position, but not finally secured, select a course on your chart
using two identifiable marks, buoys or landmarks that are within ten degrees (10°) of the

north/south line. Try to select this course so that you can maneuver your boat "down range" of
the marks selected.

2) From a position down range of the North/South marks, and keeping the marks lined up, run
the boat visually along the northerly course selected. Turn the port/starboard compensator until

the compass reads correctly.

3) Reversing direction, run the boat southerly, again keeping the marks lined up. If the compass
is not correct at this time, there is an alignment error. To correct, rotate the compass itself to

remove one half of this error. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 and then recheck this Step 3.

4) Simply repeat the procedures of Steps 1, 2 and 3, except this time, using an east/west course
and the fore/aft compensator, although at this time any alignment error should have been

eliminated.

5) Upon completing the procedure, secure the compass in its final position.

Boat Speed Rather than a paddle-wheel or sonic device, the Raymarine C120 plotter is used
to generate SOG (Speed Over Ground) that is displayed by the chart-plotter and may also be

shown in larger digits on the Autopilot display. Eventually, you will learn to approximate boat
speed through the water by relating it to RPM on the tachometer.

1.4 TOWING Refer to the included ISO Owner’s Manual or to a book on seamanship and
boat handling for
towing guidelines.

1.5 HAULING OUT A facility that is unfamiliar with the 36z may require information before
hauling the boat with a Travel-Lift or crane & straps. Refer to the illustration included at the
back of this manual. The keel (centerline of the boat) and chines (edges) should be used to
position weight bearing supports. You will note that the fore and aft lift points are located
approximately at either end of the pilot house... e.g. abeam of the windshield and the aft end of the
hard top.

Point loading flat areas other than centerline and chine or setting the

weight of the hull on supports of insufficient area may result in damage to the hull.

OPERATION

6

2.0

SAFETY EQUIPMENT

GENERAL

Spend time reviewing where your safety equipment is and how it functions BEFORE you need it.
Remember, the best way to protect yourself and others from accidents is to eliminate potential

causes of accidents before they occur. Good seamanship and common sense go a long way in
this endeavor. [See Figure 14.1]

Here is a safety checklist derived in part from the USCG Vessel Check List. State Regulations
may vary:

PFD’s

A wearable USCG approved personal flotation device (life-jacket) must be provided for each
person aboard. On the 36z, these can be types I, II, III or V. Also, one type IV throwable PFD

must be immediately available for use. Children under 13 years of age are required to wear a
USCG life jacket that fits when underway unless they are in an enclosed cabin or belowdecks.

Visual Distress Signals (VDS)

You must carry VDS’s aboard. If operating between sunset and sunrise, they must be suitable for
night use and be within the age dates marked on the side of the flares. A minimum of 3 day/night

use combination pyrotechnic flares are required. For a list of USCG approved devices, see the
USCG recreational checklist.

Fire Extinguisher

In addition to the automatic fire suppression system fitted in the engine space, you are required to
carry at least one type B-1 extinguisher aboard. This should be checked regularly.

EPIRB

If operating offshore, an EPIRB (electronic position indicating radio beacon) is recommended.

Ships Papers & Registration

You should carry the vessel’s registration papers and number plate.

Pollution Regulation Plaques

5”x8” Oil Discharge Plaque and a 4”x9” Waste Discharge Placard should be fixed were visible.

Charts & Light Lists

Charts, light lists and a USCG required copy of the Inland “Rules of the Road” Navigation Rules

Horn or Whistle

Recommended to signal intentions or signal position. For instance, when in a narrow channel or
the Intracoastal Waterway: To signal which side of another boat you will pass on, blow 1 blast if

you are passing to their starboard side and 2 blasts if passing on their port side.

Life Raft

If you plan to be coastal cruising out of sight of land, it is prudent to carry a Coastal Life Raft
which come in compact sizes that can be stored in one of the aft cockpit lockers.

Heaving Line

These floating lines are available and handy to have ready in case of emergency or to simply trail
behind the boat when swimming, .with the end attached to one of the stern cleats.

First Aid Kit

Not a place to scrimp. It is advisable to carry a good, comprehensive, and well-organized (by
injury) marine first-aid kit with manual. We recommend that it be stored in the head and that

everyone onboard be informed of its location. (Remember, you may be the one in need of it!)

CHAPTER 2

2.1

2.2

SAFETY EQUIPMENT

FUEL SHUT-OFF VALVES

The fuel shut-off valves are located on top of the fuel tanks and are accessible through pilothouse
settee lockers. Make sure you know how to shut off the fuel valve. (When the handle is

perpendicular to the hose, the valve is closed.) In case of a fuel fire, STOP any machinery and
close the valve to cut the supply of fuel to the fire/engine. If you should ever see fuel in the bilges,

turn off the valve, clean the bilges, and find the source of the leak immediately. Also note that
there are fuel shut off valves, normally left closed to designate one tank for each engine, on the

lower inboard aft corner of the fuel tanks, which connect the two tanks together at the bottom for
self leveling. There is only one fuel level sensor and that is on the starboard tank.

FIRE

Fire aboard a boat is a serious matter, and fire safety begins with fire prevention. You can reduce
the risk of fire by following common sense guidelines:

! Do not allow debris or oily rags to collect in bilges or machinery spaces.
! Understand your electrical system, allow only qualified marine electricians to work on it, and shut

down as many circuits as practical when leaving the boat. Do not leave appliances running while
unattended.

! Have your fire suppression equipment inspected regularly and learn how to use it.

An automatic fire suppression system is installed on every boat in the engine and generator
space. It is heat activated. Read the information that comes with the equipment. The system can

also be manually activated at the helm station. [See Helm Console Section] Because a diesel
engine would evacuate the suppression agent from the affected space, the system will shut down

the engine (and generator) when it discharges. If manually activating the system, the engine
should be shut down first. After the situation has stabilized, the shut-down feature can be over-

ridden to restart the engine. A loud warning alarm will sound when the system has been
activated.

The hand-held fire extinguisher is rated to fight type A, B & C fires.

To extinguish a fire, the most effective method is to cut the source of fuel to the fire. In the case of
a diesel fuel fire, the fuel tank valves should be closed. In the case of an electrical fire, the main

battery switches or main disconnect breakers should be turned off. Fire needs oxygen to burn, so
if a fire should occur in an enclosed area, the best course of action may be to exit the area and

seal it from the outside by closing all means of air inta

CHAPTER 2

CHAPTER 3

INTRO - THE TOP 9 CAUSES OF DIESEL ENGINE FAILURE (Motorboating Magazine - 2006).

1. NO FUEL: This is probably less of a problem on a fuel-efficient MJM than on other boats, but don’t

think that it will never run out! Lack of owner attention to fuel consumption is the primary culprit for engine
failure. A boat’s fuel tank can be nearly dry as a bone – even when the guage claims there’s a 1/8th of a

tank left. Remember that at cruising speed, the gauge shows the tanks reading more than when the boat
is at rest. A good rule of thumb is to never pass a fuel dock if your gauge is showing under 1/3 full.

1b. AIR IN FUEL LINE: If air gets drawn into the fuel lines because of either a small leak in a fuel line
connection or the Racor Filter lid gasket/filter basket tabs have interfered with the lid being secured fully,

you may find the engine will turn over, but won’t start. Check the Racor to insure the fuel level is within
an inch of the top. Check the Yanmar owner manual for the location of a manual primer pump.

2. DIRTY FUEL: Engine problems are caused by dirt and water in the fuel. Debris, stirred up from the
bottom of the tank by wave action, is drawn into the fuel line and clogs the fuel filter element. Starved for

fuel, the engine begins to run poorly, and then not at all. Moisture condenses out of the highly humid air
on the inside walls of a fuel tank, then runs down into the fuel. Water can also be introduced at the fuel

dock from a contaminated fuel supply. Fuel floats on top of water and the fuel pick ups are near the
bottom of the tank. A fuel/water separator protects against this by handily extracting the water. Check

the bowl daily and drain off the accumulated water. For severe contamination, use a fuel drying additive.

3. FUEL BUGS: Diesel engines suffer from microbial bugs growing in the fuel. If left unchecked, these
critters clog filters. If you leave the same diesel fuel in the tank for any length of time, a fuel conditioner

similar to that supplied with your boat by the builder will kill the bugs and break up any hydrocarbon
residue into particles that will burn completely in the combustion process.

4. TIRED PUMP: As boats age, a worn-out circulating water pump is another engine killer. Impeller
blades are commonly made of nitrile that stiffens over time and can break off entirely, reducing coolant

flow. Periodic engine maintenance procedures can prevent this problem. A spare is provided in the
Yanmar Spares Kit.

5. HARD HOSE: As water intake hoses age, they lose their resiliency and collapse under suction,
causing a restriction in the flow of engine coolant. This results in over-heating. Prevention is easy:

Visually inspect cooling hoses and squeeze them to be sure they retain shape and set.

6. CLOGGED INTAKE: Floating debris in the water is another culprit. Things like discarded plastic
baggies, weeds, etc. can plug up the raw-water intake. You can avoid this problem by frequentl inspecting

the strainer basket. When removing debris, be sure to properly replace the seal, otherwise the pump will
either lose suction or spray salt water onto the air intake, depending on the strainer location. Smearing

the seal with Vaseline or other marine-grade grease helps and firmly securing the top is important.

7. HARD KNOCKS: Collision with an underwater obstacle that damages the propulsion system. Often
you can still operate the boat at low RPM to return to port, being careful to avoid excessive vibration that

might otherwise compound the damage by damaging the transmission. The problem may be corrected in
a day or so without hauling by an experienced diver who has access to a prop shop where the blades can

be repaired and the prop re-balanced, then re-installed.

8. BAD BATTERY: Marine starting batteries die from old age and neglect. Keep the terminals and
posts clean from that green corrosion that builds up, restricting the flow of current – preventing the cless

from fully charging. Periodically have your batteries tested to determine their condition and expected
longevity. The 36z is equipped with a “parallel” switch which can be turned on to employ the 400

ampere-hour house bank in starting the engine.

9. SAGGING BELT: As V-belts wear, they stretch and begin to slip. Consequently, alternators and
water pumps don’t spin to their full speed. Batteries may not fully charge and coolant circulates

sluggishly. The solution is to check belt tension regularly and tighten belts when necessary. Drive belts

PROPULSION SYSTEM

9

What%Diesel%Mechanics%Wish%Every%Boat%Owner%Knew%

To run well, a diesel engine requires only clean fuel, clean lubricating oil, coolant, and lots of air.
Below are ten important maintenance issues that diesel mechanics wish their customers knew:

1. Don’t baby the engine. Diesels don’t like to idle in neutral, or even in gear at low speeds; they
do like to work hard under load. What’s cruising RPM? Generally, 75-80% of the maximum RPM.
Excessive idling leads to gradual build-up of detrimental varnish on the cylinders, and deposits
soot and carbon on the engine’s valves and in the exhaust system, particularly at the manifold
injection elbow where raw cooling water exiting the engine mates with the exhaust gases. Run it
hard. However...after running at cruising RPM for several hours, a brief cool-down at idle speed,
with no load, is beneficial. A few minutes is enough.

2. Give your engine clean fuel. Fuel is “contaminated” when it contains water, sediment, other
solids, or biological organisms, some of which thrive in diesel fuel. To minimize contamination,
don’t store your boat for the winter or let it sit around for weeks at a time with fuel tanks only
partly full. A full tank minimizes condensation of water vapor on the tank’s interior and the growth
of micro-organisms. Fuel filters trap sediment, sludge, water and organic material and should be
changed at periodic intervals.

3. Be conservative in your estimate of fuel consumption. When under way, do not delay re­fueling to the point where you have expended nearly all the fuel in the tank. The last 20% should
be held in reserve. To suck up the last few gallons is to chance sucking up water (tank
condensate), sludge, and other contaminants - perhaps even air - into your fuel lines.

4. Know how to vent (“bleed”) the air out of your fuel system. Air locks in diesel fuel systems
are a fact of life. The typical diesel fuel system operates with a lift pump (a vacuum pump) that
lifts or sucks fuel out of the tank, draws it through the pump, then sends it to the filters and
injectors, where the injector pump sends fuel to the individual cylinders for combustion. Whenever
you open the fuel line between the tank and the engine (for example, to change a filter element)
air enters the line. Air may also be sucked into the fuel line through cracked seals and gaskets,
poorly fitted connectors and clamps, via the pick-up tube in the fuel tank, etc. This air must be
removed, because even a tiny air bubble in the fuel line will block the flow of fuel, and without
fuel, the engine will not start; if running, air in the fuel line will cause it to stop.

To clear your fuel line of air, you must vent or “bleed” it out. Consult your engine’s manual to
identify the bleeding nuts; paint them with white nail polish so you can easily find them again, in
the dark, at sea. Given decent access to the engine, bleeding or venting air is a simple procedure
that everyone should be able to perform. Using the engine manual, teach yourself how to do this.

5. Be diligent about checking your lube oil and oil filter. Diesel engines are rough on oil and
usually require more frequent oil and oil filter changes than comparable gasoline engines. Follow
the engine manual’s recommendation for service intervals. Carry spares on board. Between oil
changes, use the dipstick to check the oil level. Top it off as necessary from your on-board lube
oil inventory, but do not exceed the “full” mark on the dipstick; more is NOT better.

6. Minimize risk of fire. Diesel engines vibrate a lot, and the typical marine diesel has a lot of
wiring and hoses attached to it, crossing it, behind it and near it. Over time, as the engine
vibrates, the fasteners may loosen and fail, the wiring and hoses droop or fall. One hates to see a
loose hose or wire (such as the primary wiring harness, or the power supply to your fuel pump, or
a hose to the hydraulic pump) cross and contact a hot exhaust manifold, for example; this could
be a prescription for fire due to abrasion of insulation around wire, or chafing through the wall of a
hose. From time to time, inspect your engine compartment for these potential risks. Add chafing
protection, replace worn insulation, and supplement the fasteners if necessary. Consider re­routing wires and hoses where appropriate.

7. Know how to trouble-shoot the cooling system. Since overheating is a common problem
familiarize yourself with engine’s cooling systems: the raw water (sea-water) system, as well as
the fresh water (internal circulating coolant) system. The most likely causes of overheating
are:

* Raw-water valve closed.

* Raw-water through-hull blocked externally. Check for a plastic bag, or a clump of sea grass or
other material, covering or plugging the inlet.

* Raw-water filter / strainer clogged with sediment, sand, goo, grass, or living critters such as
barnacles, jelly fish, and algae.

* Defective or destroyed impeller in raw water pump. The impeller should be replaced every year
or two, as the rubber vanes become brittle with age and may snap off.

* Heat exchanger dirty or clogged up with sediment and other deposits. The entire raw water
cooling system should be flushed periodically to remove salt and sediment deposits.

* Exhaust elbow restricted by carbon deposits or other solids, reducing discharge of cooling water
and exhaust gases. Routinely run the boat at high RPM for several minutes to clear.

* Thermostat stuck closed; likely will require removal or replacement. (Note: Some diesel engines
operate OK - temporarily - without a thermostat.) Coolant temperature of 170-180o F is normal.

* Low level of coolant (50-50 mix of antifreeze-water). Coolant levels should be checked routinely
at the expansion tank, adding more as needed.

* Broken or slipping V-belt, which drives the water pumps and the alternator. Even a new belt
deserves re-tensioning and inspection. Suspect slippage or wear if you see dark “belt dust”
settling at the engine’s base. Belt tension is OK if pressure deflects the belt by about 1/2 inch.

* Overloading of the engine: Rope wrapped around propeller shaft, dirty bottom, fouled propeller,
or air leaks in the raw water cooling system. Cracked or collapsed hose? Hose clamps tight?

8. Know your fuel additives. When crude oil is refined as diesel fuel, it acquires additives to
reduce smoke, prevent pre-ignition (“knocking”), improve its cetane rating, etc. Few additives
further enhance fuel. Some diesel mechanics actually recommend: Biocides, such as Killem and
Biobor, lubricants, such as Lubricity and Stanadyne Performance Formula, and fuel stabilizers,
such as Sta-Bil and Pri-D. BUT 1) Follow the instructions on the container. 2) Routinely, a little bit
is better than a lot.and 3) Be guided by your mechanic’s advice.

9. Monitor for exhaust leaks. From time to time, when the engine is operating, inspect the
complete exhaust system from the engine to the through-hull and overboard discharge. Look for
leaks, both exhaust (air) and water. Major leaks will be obvious, but early signs of leaks due to
hairline cracks in hoses and water pot muffler systems may not be. Diesel exhaust contains acidic
sulfur and other gasses that may poison the air within the boat. To detect air leaks, look for tell­tale traces of black soot. Water leaks should also be immediately repaired. Leaks never resolve
spontaneously; they must be addressed as quickly as possible.

10. Properly dispose of hazardous waste. Be sure to properly dispose of used coolant, used
engine oil and transmission fluid, contaminated fuel, old filters soaked with fuel and oil, etc. These
fluids are generally poisonous to people, pets, wildlife, and the environment, and some of them
can be recycled.

Edited from an article by Captain Bernie Weiss at www.AtlanticYachtDelivery.com.

MARINE DIESEL ENGINES

6BY3-220Z / 6BY3-260Z

Configuration 4-stroke, water-cooled diesel engine

Maximum output at crankshaf t 162 kW@4000 rpm [220 mhp @4000 rpm]

191 kW@4000 rpm [260 mhp @40 00 rpm ]

Displacement 2.993 ltr [183 cu in]

Bore x stroke 84 mm x 90 mm [3.31 in x 3.54 in]

Cylinders 6 in line

Combustion system Direct injection with Bosch Common Rail System

Aspiration Turbocharger + charge air cooler

Low Idle rpm 650 - 950 rpm [adjustable]

Electric system 12V

Alternator 12V - 150A

Start-assist Glow-plug system

Cooling system Fresh water cooling by centrifugal fresh water pump

Sea water cooling by rubber impeller seawater pump

Lubrication system Enclosed, forced lubricating system

Direction of rotation [crankshaft] Counterclockwise viewed from flywheel side

Dry weight without gear 328 kg [723 lbs]

Environmental EU: RCD BSO II EMC

US: EPA Tier3

IMO: MARPOL 73/78 Annex VI

Engine mounting Rubber type flexible mounting

NOTE:
Fuel condition: Density at 15°C = 0.84 g/cm³
Fuel temperature 40°C at the inle t of the fuel injection pump [ ISO 8665: 2006 ]
Technical dat a is according to ISO 8 665: 20 06/ 3046 -1

DIMENSIONS

Type 6BY3-220Z

6BY3-260Z

Configuration 6-cylinder in line, 4-stroke, water cooled diesel engine

Maximum output at crankshaft 162 kW@4.000 RPM [220 MHp@4.000 RPM]
according ISO 8665:2006 191 kW@4.000 RPM [260 MHp@4.000 RPM]

Displacement 2,993 Ltr [183 cu.in]

Bore x stroke 84 mm x 90 mm [3.31 in x 3,54 in]

Cylinders 6 cylinders, in line

Combustion system Direct injection with Bosch Common-rail system

Aspiration Turbocharger + charge-air cooler

Low Idle RPM 650 - 950 RPM [adjustable]

Electric system 12V

Alternator

12V - 150A

Start-assist Glow-plug system

Cooling system Fresh water cooling by centrifugal fresh water pump

Sea water cooling by rubber impeller seawater pump

Lubrication system Enclosed, forced lubricating system

Direction of rotation (crankshaft) Counter clockwise viewed from flywheel side

Dry weight without gear 328 Kg [723 Lbs]

Environmental EU: RCD stage 1 EMC BSO II

US: EPA Tier3

Engine mounting Rubber type flexible mounting

NOTE: Fuel condition: Density at 15°C = 0.84 g/cm ³
Fuel temperature 40°C at the inlet of the fuel injection pump (ISO 8665:2006)

Dimensions

FRONT VIEW RIGHT SIDE VIEW

EN_DS6 BY3Z_0113

www.yanmar.eu

6BY3-260Z wit h ZT370 Sterndrive

2247 2424

ZT370 Steerable Z-drive with duo-propeller

Hydraulic Actuated Multi-friction disc Sterndrive

69 kg [drive]/46 kg [Transom + trim-pump]/15 kg [Propellers]

1.65

2424

Clockwise [rear propeller]/Counter clockwise [front propeller]

API class: GL5 SAE grade #80W90 or QuickSilver High Performance Gearlube

445 kg

Model

Type

Dry weight

Reduction ratio [fwd/asn]

Propeller speed [fwd/asn]

Direction of rotation

Lub oil specifications

1.78 1.65

Dry weight - engine & gear

MARINE DIESEL ENGINES

Type 6BY3-220Z

6BY3-260Z

Mercury High Performance Gearlube

430 kg

API class: GL5 SAE grade #80W90 or QuickSilver High Performance Gearlube

445 kg

Mercruiser Bravo 1 Steerable Z-drive with single propeller

Mechanical cone-clutch type Sterndrive

59 kg [drive] / 48 kg [Transom + trim-pump] / 8 kg [Propeller]

Clockwise / Counterclockwise viewed from the stern

Clockwise [rear propeller] / Counterclockwise [front propeller]

ZT370 Steerable Z-drive with duo-propeller

Hydraulic Actuated Multi-friction disc Sterndrive

69 kg [drive] / 46 kg [Transom + trim-pump] / 15 kg [Propellers]

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

140

160

180

200

1.000 1.500 2. 000 2.500 3.000 3.500 4.000 4.500

Power [kW]

Crankshaft speed [RPM]





0

100

200

300

400

500

600

1.000 1.500 2.000 2.500 3.000 3.500 4.000 4.500

Torque [Nm]

Crankshaft speed [RPM]





Type 6BY3-220Z

6BY3-260Z

Mercury High Performance Gearlube

430 kg

API class: GL5 SAE grade #80W90 or QuickSilver High Performance Gearlube

445 kg

Mercruiser Bravo 1 Steerable Z-drive with single propeller

Mechanical cone-clutch type Sterndrive

59 kg [drive] / 48 kg [Transom + trim-pump] / 8 kg [Propeller]

Clockwise / Counterclockwise viewed from the stern

Clockwise [rear propeller] / Counterclockwise [front propeller]

ZT370 Steerable Z-drive with duo-propeller

Hydraulic Actuated Multi-friction disc Sterndrive

69 kg [drive] / 46 kg [Transom + trim-pump] / 15 kg [Propellers]

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

140

160

180

200

1.000 1.500 2.000 2.500 3.000 3.500 4.000 4.500

Power [kW]

Crankshaft speed [RPM]





0

100

200

300

400

500

600

1.000 1.500 2.000 2.500 3.000 3.500 4.000

4.500

Torque [Nm]

Crankshaft speed [RPM]





PERFORMANCE CURVES

CONTROL SYSTEM “CLASSIC”

Opti onal ac ceso ries

s 4HROUGHTRANSOMEXHAUST
s %XHAUS TSIDE

nd

dipstick

s %LECTRICGEARSHIFT
s .-%! DIGITALDISPLAY
s 6ARIOUSMONITORINGGAUGES
s &ULL.-%!ELECTRONICCONTROLSYSTEM;#!.BUS=

Propellers

s 0ROPELLERSIZE

20” - 22” - 24” - 26” - 28”

s 0ROPELLERSWITHCUP

24”- 26”

Stan dard e ngin e packa ge

s 3INGLEPOLE !ALTERNATOR
s (IGHRISERMIXINGEXHAUS TELBOW
s !UTOMATICGLOWPLUGCONTROLLER
s &LEXIBLEENGINEMOUNTING
s !NALOG UETHROTTLEWITHREDUNDANCYFUNCTION

ENGINE ACCESORIES

EN_DS6 BY3Z_0113

www.yanmar.eu

NOTE: All d ata subject to chan ge without notice. Text a nd illustration s are not binding.

1 - Inner and o uter transom sur face must be para llel within 3 mm in area c overed by transom p lates and remain wi thin transom thic kness limits.
2 - Area cover ed by gimbal housin g assembly must be fl at to within 1.6 mm.
3 - Area cover ed by inner transo m plate must be flat to with in 3.2 mm.
4 - Transom angl e: 13° to 16°.
5 - Also avail able with Bravo X-2 drive’s, pl ease contact you r local supplier fo r support.

DRIVE SYSTEM S

2.18

Mercruiser Bravo 1 Steerable Z-drive with single propeller

Mechanical cone-clutch type Sterndrive

59 kg [drive]/48 kg [Transom + trim-pump]/8 kg [Propeller]

1.36

2424

Clockwise & Counterclockwise viewed from the stern

Mercury High Performance Gearlube

430 kg

Model

Type

Dry weight

Reduction ratio [fwd/asn]

Propeller speed [fwd/asn]

Direction of rotation

Lub oil specifications

Dry weight - engine & gear

1.5 1.65

2667 2424

1835

CHAPTER 3

can also snap. The only way to avoid this malady is to replace them once they begin to show wear.
Spare belts are provided in the Yanmar spares kit

3.0 GENERAL Your 36z is propelled by twin Yanmar diesel engines turning duo-prop propellors.

The dual-lever electronic control acts as a combination throttle and gear selector. Care should be taken
when shifting. Always allow the transmission to engage the new gear before throttling up. Push the
SYNCH button to synchronize the engines, permitting the port throttle to control both engines… or you
can use both at the same time, although the starboard throttle does nothing.

The engine should never be running when swimmers are near the boat.

Engines are accessed by raising the cockpit hatch using the electric lift.

3.1 COOLING Your engine passes seawater (raw water) through an intake in the sterndrive

unit under the swim platform to the impeller (pump) then through the raw water intake strainer
then through a heat exchanger where it cools the engine’s coolant. This coolant is circulated
through the engine and returns to the heat exchanger. For the engine to keep cool, it must have
an adequate supply of raw water and coolant.

PROPULSION SYSTEM

10

GEAR OIL LEVEL

RAW WATER
INTAKE STRAINERS

See Yanmar 6BY Operator’s Manual
for greater detail of engine components

3.2

3.3

3.4

PROPULSION SYSTEM

If you get a high water temperature alarm, most likely the raw water strainer has become clogged.
Check to be sure it’s clean first. Best to check the coolant level before embarking on your journey

by opening the caps on top of the engine. Coolant should be visible (reach it with you finger when
the engine isn’t hot) of the reservoir which is on top of the front starboard corner of the engines.

Do not attempt to remove the coolant cap of a hot engine.

For details on what type of coolant to use it is very important to, consult the Yanmar operator
manual. As the water and exhaust exit out the hub of the props, it is not as easy to check raw

water flow. It is recommended to pay close attention to water temperature (167°-180° F is
normal) at the outset. It’s a good idea to have a container of spare coolant aboard at all times.

NEW ENGINE BREAK-IN

While running the engine for the first time and after shut-down, check for
proper engine oil pressure, diesel fuel leaks, engine oil leaks, coolant leaks, proper operation of
the indicators and gauges, proper exhaust color, engine vibrations and sounds, If coolant or oil
temperature is high (a) Is the raw water intake seacock open at the base of the IPS drives? (b)
Are the raw water strainers clogged?

The engine may seize if it is operated when seawater intake is restricted or if

load is applied without allowing the water temperature (engine) to warm up.

During the first 10 hours of operation, full load should only be applied for short periods. Never run
the engine for a long period at a constant RPM during this period. Higher oil consumption is

typical at this time, so carefully observe oil pressure, oil temperature and coolant temperature,
exhaust color and check engine oil and coolant levels frequently... ie daily.

LUBRICATION

Both the engine and sterndrive gears use oil for lubrication. The gears will tend to use less oil
than the engine, but both should be checked frequently. For the proper type of oils to use (which
may depend on the service area and conditions) consult the engine manual.

The engine oil may be checked on the starboard side of the engines by pulling up the red
dipsticks, at least ! hour after running of the engines to allow the oil to drain down from the upper
part of the engine.

The gear oil levels can be seen in the reservoirs on the transom.

ZINCS

Read the Yanmar Operators Manual carefully. In addition to a transom zinc, there are zincs
on the sterndrive and engine. Pay close attention to these zincs, inspecting them with a diver at
least monthly…a good frequency for cleaning the bottom of optimum performance as well. You’ll

find that the timing for replacing zincs varies depending on the type of bottom paint used, the
characteristics of the seawater, the amount of electrical current in marinas, or could indicate (if

excessive wear is noted) an electrical short on the boat, etc. Inspect engine zincs periodically at
the time of oil changes and remove the corroded area on the surface, replacing them when

deteriorated to less than 50% of original size. Otherwise corrosion in the cooling system will occur
and water leakage or parts breakage will result. Be sure to close raw water intakes at before

removing a plug to replace a zinc.

CHAPTER 3

11

3.5 ENGINE AIR INTAKES

Diesel engines use a large

quantity of air for combustion. The
engine of the 36z gets this air thru

grills under the cockpit coaming,
both port and starboard.

3.6 ENGINE CONTROL DISPLAYS

These twin panels display all the engine data, fuel usage, etc. Please read the Yanmar-Penta Owner’s
Manual to understand its operation and versatility.

3.7 YANMAR ENGINE CONTROLS

See the Yanmar Owner’s Manual for operating details.

The “N” buttons allow you to disengage the gears to permit racing the engines in neutral.

The “Take Command” button is pushed to engage the control if the boat is in Docking Mode with the
joystick.

The “SYNC” button synchronizes the two engines, allowing the port handle to control both engines.

SUDDEN MOVEMENT HAZARD This control lever governs both throttle and

shifting functions. The boat may start to move abruptly when the marine gear is engaged:
Ensure the boat is clear of all obstacles forward and aft. Cautiously shift to the IDLE FORWARD

position then quickly back to NEUTRAL position. Observe whether the boat moves as you
expect.

3.8 START ENGINE

Before starting the engine, make sure (1) the raw water strainers are clean (2) the engine has
sufficient oil and coolant (3) gear oil is at the proper level (4) there are no restrictions to the air
intake grills (5) the fuel valve over both fuel tanks are OPEN (6) the HOUSE and BOTH
ENGINE battery bank rocker switches are ON (7) the throttle is in the neutral position (8) no one is
in the water near the boat and (9) all machinery space hatches are closed.

TURN ON ENGINE
Turn the Ignition Keys ON

START ENGINES by holding one then the second Ignition Key to the right with for several seconds
until the engine starts. Then release the key. The engine will not start unless the shift levers are in
NEUTRAL. If repeated start attempts are needed, the key must be turned back to position 0 first.

Never engage the starter motor (turning key hard to the right) while the engine
is running. This may damage the pinion and/or ring gear.

IF BATTERY VOLTAGE is low and you have difficulty turning over the engine, a momentary
Parallel Rocker Switch is located between the two Engine Start Battery Switches on the AC electrical

panel belowdecks. By turning this switch on, you add the capacity of the house bank to the start
battery. Once started, turn OFF the Parallel Switch. It is for emergency use only.

3.9 ALARM DISPLAY

When the ignition key is first turned ON to position I, you may hear an audible alarm signal and
See a warning sign, indicating that the diagnostic function has
registered a malfunction.

Please refer to Yanmar Operator’s Manual chapters for detailed information about FAULTS and
recommended action should you hear an engine alarm.

3.10 STOP ENGINE

Put both engine controls in NEUTRAL. Turn & hold Ignition Key OFF until the engine stops. If
unsuccessful, there’s a clearly labeled “Emergency STOP” button on the side of the engine.

Make sure to turn OFF Engine Battery Switches under the electrical panel when leaving the boat.

,

1
3

CHAPTER 3

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A.!!!Boost!the!port!engine!battery!with!the!starboard!engine!alternator!&!battery.!!!!
Turn!the!Starboard!Engine!battery!switch!ON!(Not!the!Port!Engine!or!EEP!switch).!Up!on!deck,!turn!the!Starboard!Engine!
ignition!switch!ON.!!Wait!until!the!engine!display!shows!data.!Then!START!the!Starboard!Engine.!With!that!alternator!now!
charging!batteries!as!evidenced!by!voltage!climbing,!go!belowdecks!and!first!push!the!EEP!switch!ON.!Then!turn!the!Port!
Engine!Battery!Switch!ON.!!Then!up!on!deck,!turn!the!Port!Engine!Ignition!Switch!ON.!Check!to!see!that!the !v o ltag e !o n !ea ch !
engine!display!is!reading!above!12!volts!and!climbing.!!If!so,!START!the!Port!Engine.!!!
!
B.!!Charge!with!the!Genset!
Turn!the!Genset!ON!and!be!sure!it's!showing!a!charge!by!rising!voltage!over!the!House!DC!Panel.!!!Turn!the!EEP!switch!ON.!
Turn!both!Engine!Battery!switches!ON.!!Turn!Engine!Ignition!switches!ON.!!Insure!good!voltage!readings!on !th e !E n g in e!Data!
Displays.!!Start!engines.!!With!the!engines!now!charging!through!alternators,!you!can!shutdown!the!Generator.!!!!!
!
C.!!Combine!the!House!Battery!with!the!Port!Engine!Battery!
On!recent!boats!(see!below)!use!the!yellow!rotating!knob!with!a!push!button!center!labelled!"Port!Engine!Remote!(PER)!
Switch"!on!top!of!a!small!black!box.!On!the!40z!it!is!located!on!the!starboard!bulkhead!inside!the!systems!compartment!
under!the!pilothouse!hatch.!!See!below.!
!

!

!
Starting!with!all!ignition!and!battery!switches!OFF!again.!Turn!the!House!Battery!and!Engine!Battery!switches!ON!(not!the!
EEP!switch).!Then!go!into!the!central!pilothouse!hatch!and!push!the!yellow!button!on!top!of!!the!PER!switch!down!u ntil!it!
clicks!in!place.!Proceed!with!turning!the!Engine!Ignition!switches!ON.!Check!for!equal,!good!voltage!on!the!Engine!
Displays.!!START!the!engines.!
!

WARNING:!!!The!above!procedures!may!get!you!going!for!a!short!run,!but!don't!be!complacent!about!it.!Too!mu ch !on !the!
boat!depends!on!both!batteries!functioning!properly.!!Lower!voltage!in!one!engine!start!battery!than!the!other!indicates!a!
problem!with!the!charging!system!or!a!bad!battery.!!Monitor!closely!and!rectify!immediately!if!the!problem!persists.!!!

!!

!

CHAPTER 3

3.11 OPERATIONAL LIMITS

Engine trouble can arise if the engine is operated for a long time under overloaded
conditions at max RPM. Recommended “Max Cruising Speed” is at least 10% below full throttle of
3800 RPM. While running, pay attention to the engine gauges on the EVC display. A significant
change in temperature, oil pressure, or voltage should be investigated immediately, before the
engine is damaged.

OIL PRESSURE – tba

COOLANT TEMPERATURE – Normally between 167 and 180 degrees F.

OIL TEMPERATURE – This should normally be less than 230 degrees F, or
110 degrees Celsius.

CHARGING – Normally about 14 Volts when underway.

Depending on hull structure and engine installation, engine and hull resonance may be greater at
some speeds than others. This is normal and you will learn to pick the sweet spots. If you hear
any abnormal sounds, stop the engine and inspect.

If any warning lights or buzzers activate, stop the engine immediately.
Determine the cause and repair the problem before continuing to operate.

PROPULSION SYSTEM

14

4.0

4.1

STEERING CONTROL SYSTEM

STEERING SYSTEM

The 36z has an integrated, electronically controlled power steering system, which through electric
motors rotate the two sterndrive units mounted on the transom. When running, the 36z is steered

as with outboards. Thrust of the propellers is directed more immediately and precisely from side

to side through a 26° arc to steer the boat.... rather than bouncing the prop wash pf a

conventional straight shaft propulsion unit off a rudder.

When the throttle/shift levers are put in (N) neutral and the left-hand button pushed to activate the
joystick: Control of the pod drives is transferred from the throttle/shift levers to the joystick that

controls the steering computer. When the joystick is activated, the steering wheel is inoperative.

Emergency Alignment If a fault occurs which prevents one or both of the sterndrives from
being operated with the steering wheel, it is possible to align the faulty propulsion unit(s) so that

its aimed straight ahead (and won’t act like a rudder), so as not to impair operation of either the
remaining propulsion unit or the steering of the boat with the two engines. See the Yanmar Owner’s
Operating Manual.

Emergency Steering These controls are attached to the engine with cables, so if the electronic
steering ever failed on both propulsion units, a steering method using the two engines can be

employed.

Emergency Shifting In an emergency, you should be able to shift the drives manually. There
is a shift actuator that normally shifts the mechanical drive, if that is not functioning, you may
be able to remove the cable from the shift actuator and manual push/pull the cable to shift into
gear.

JOYSTICK DOCKING CONTROL

This control is used only for docking and maneuvering

at slow speed. Learn to handle the joystick in a safe
and correct manner before you start using the function

in tight quarters.

When the joystick is active, the
normal engine controls are Neutral and inactive. A

computer operates the drives and shifting. Rotation of
the wheel is frozen and it should not be turned, as

damage may occur.

To Activate: Both engines must be running and the
engine control handles must be IN NEUTRAL. Press

the “Take Command” button. A beep confirms it is active
and the light above will go on.

To DeActivate: Press the ”Take Command” button on
the engine controls.

Boost Function In windy weather or current when you
need more oomph, push the BOOST button. A beep will
confirm it’s engaged.

Maneuvering with Joystick Lean the joystick post in the direction you’d like to go. Release and
the thrust stops. The boat may keep moving, so you may have to tap it in the opposite direction to
stop it. The top of the joystick is rotated (twisted) to orient the bow and stern, or to spin the boat
completely around on its own axis. Pretty simple Takes some practice until it becomes completely
intuitive.

CHAPTER 4

L

4.2

STEERING CONTROL SYSTEM

Joystick Calibration When moving the boat sideways if it seems that the bow or stern moves

more than the other, see the Yanmar Operator’s Manual to make adjustments.

HELM STATION

The helm station console is where most of the operational controls of the boat are located.
Become familiar with these before you need to use them. In addition, make sure that when you

are using the boat, even if you are not using a specific piece of equipment, that the circuit
breakers are on for any equipment you might need.

I70 Depth/Multi

E165 Touch Screen Display

Spot light

Yanmar Engine Displays

Switch Panel

Joystick Panel

P70r AutoPilot

Lectrotab Trim Tab Control

BILGE PUMPS ENGINE SWITCHES

GENSET PANEL WINDLASS CONTROL

FIREBOY CONTROL

4” HIGH WATER

ALARM

CHAPTER 4

4.4

STEERING CONTROL SYSTEM

4.3 CONSOLE SWITCH PANEL

With the exception of the Anchor Washdown which is activated along with the “Windlass” breaker
(and must have the “Water Pressure” switch ON as does the washer function of the “Wiper”

switch) funcitons of this panel on the console are activated by turning on their respective breaker
switches on the DC Electrical Panel in the main saloon.

Functions of the panel rocker switches are described below the corresponding switch:

Sound
HORN

POWER TRIM

Activate by turning on the ignition. The current position (angle) of the drivea can be shown on the
Engine Display.

To move both drives simultaneously, RAISE or LOWER the Bow, PRESS the rocker switch on the
port engine control handle.

To move just one drive at a time, consult the Yanmar Owners Manual.

Emergency Trimming. If a fault prevents the trim panel from working, PRESS & HOLD the
BACK button (--) on the EVC Control Panel then trim the drive using the Trim Panel. This action

over-rides preset automatic trim limits.

To determine the best trim angle and ranges, familiarize yourself with the characteristics of the
boat, recording the RPMs and trim position at various speeds and in various wave conditions.

Beach Range – Used for running in shallow water at reduced speed of not greater than 1500
rpm. Make sure the drive’s raw water intake is never trimmed out of the water.

CHAPTER 4

WIPER

Press when
Raising Rode,

Chain & Anchor
to Wash with

Fresh Water

NAV LTS
FWD

Underway
AFT

At Anchor

WASHERS
Read Instr

Booklet.

CHAPTER 4

PORT STBD

WINDSHIELD CONTROLS

STEERING CONTROL SYSTEM

Lift Range – When the drive is tilted to maximum

height, but not when running, for trailing. Power trim
has an automatic stop that cuts power when the
preset end limit has been reached. The stop is
reset automatically when activating down
trimming. Never run the engine when the drive is
in “Lift Range”.

Auto Kick Up – Releases the drive if hits bottom
or an object in the water. This feature only protects
the drive when going forward. There’s no protection in
reverse. If the function has been tripped and drive
released, it must be trimmed back to the original
position using the control buttons.

Check after any contact that the dirve or propeller are not damaged, or if there are vibrations from the
drive. If this is the case, then the boat (if possible) can be run at slow speed to harbor to haul and
inspect. Or turn off the and raise the damaged drive and run on the good drive. Check the oil level in
the drive. If colored gray, water has entered. If this is the case or other damage exists, contact an
authorized Yanmar workshop. If only the propeller is damaged, it must be replaced then the boat run to
be sure there is no other damage.

4.5 BOW-THRUSTER (Optional)

Normally, with the joystick control, one does not need a bow thruster. If one elects not to install
the joystick control system, then the boat can be operated like a conventional twin screw

sterndrive. In which case the bpw thruster can be used to increase the maneuverability of the boat
at slow speeds in tight quarters around docks and slips.

Passengers on the foredeck are at risk if the bow thruster is engaged
without their prior knowledge.

Consult the user’s manual for specifics about your thruster. In general, thrusters are best used in
short bursts. Prolonged use may damage the motor, or at least trip the breaker. When not in a

situation where the thruster may be necessary, leave it turned OFF to avoid damage. Consider
the fact that your thruster gets DC power from the engine start battery, which is charged by the

engine’s alternator. If the engine is not running, has not warmed up for 7-8 minutes to the point
that the alternator is charging the start battery, or running at idle, the thruster can consume more

energy than the alternator can provide. It is possible to discharge the battery or burn out a

thruster motor by over-use of the thruster.

The thruster automatically turns OFF after 6 minutes with no use.

Turn on the thruster(s) by holding down the two left buttons (or turning the switch to ON with
some models) until the activation light appears. (You will hear the breaker click) If the light does

not appear, check to see that the large red knob for the bow-thruster circuit breaker (below
ignition panel) is pulled out.

When operating the thrusters, allow a second or two for the propeller to
come to complete stop before reversing direction to avoid damage to

either the prop or internal coupling sheer pins (Extras in holder on
motor housing under accessed through seat or berth forward hatch..

Thruster zincs should be checked periodically and replaced if
significantly worn.

4.6

4.7

4.8

STEERING CONTROL SYSTEM

TRIM TABS

At low or high speeds, it’s not necessary to trim the bow up or
down, but will need tab applied to level the boat from side to
side due to loading or to counteract wind pressure. The boat leans
into a breeze. Tabs are useful for lowering the bow for better

visibility or for slicing through waves to avoid pounding. At higher
speeds when the boat naturally runs flatter and when running

downsea into the back of waves, it’s advisable to raise the bow for
dry running and control, allowing the bow to lift.

The trim tab breaker on the DC panel must be ON. By pushing
STBD bow down, the bow leans down to starboard and the lights
show,the port tab is going down to apply pressure to lift the port
aft corner and side of the boat. Generally push the PORT and
STBD switches together, except to trim side to side.

AUTOPILOT (Optional)

The Electronics breaker (on the DC panel) must be ON for the autopilot to function. Check the
autopilot display and note the rudder angle indicator which helps in maneuvering the boat. When
the compass heading is displayed on the autopilot it is operational and can be activated by
pushing AUTO. The boat will then maintain the displayed heading. Push +1 or -1 for one degree
course corrections or +10 or –10 for ten degree increments. When not activated, the Autopilot
display maybe configured to show BOATSPEED (SOG from the GPS). See the Raymarine
manual.

The Autopilot has been calibrated specifically for 36z operation. If you notice “hunting” rather
than steady course keeping, see the Raymarine Manual to check Configuration parameters

applied to your device or Contact Erik Rochelle at Boston BoatWorka.

WINDSHIELD WIPERS

The 36z is fitted with two windshield wipers. For specific instructions, refer to the user manual.
The wash feature is connected to your boat’s freshwater system and requires that the system be

pressurized (i.e. that the freshwater pump is ON). If the wipers are to be used in sub-freezing
temperatures, a separate system must be installed which utilizes anti-freeze.

CHAPTER 4

5.0

5.1

FUEL SYSTEM

GENERAL

It is important to understand the fuel system aboard your boat. Diesel fuel is different than
gasoline. In most respects it is safer, however precautions need to be taken to maintain the safety

of your boat. Please study the safety precautions in the NMMA publication “Sportfish, Cruisers,
Yachts – Owner’s Manual.”

Diesel engines need to intake more fuel than they burn, and so they differ from gasoline engines
in that they return excess fuel to the tank. Both feed & return of port and starboard engines are

their respective 175 gallon fuel tanks. The two fuel tanks are connected at the bottom by a
“compensating” fuel line with isolating shut-off valves at both aft inboard corners.

FUEL SHUT-OFF VALVES

These valves are located on top of the fuel tanks aft and are accessed through pilothouse seat
lockers. In the photos below they are shown in the open postion, parallel with the fuel lines.

These valves should be shut down if inspecting a Racor filter, in an emergency

or in case of a fire in the engine compartment.

STARBOARD TANK showing fuel shut-off ,
VacuFlush Tank & Pump and Raymarine

Autopilot Interface Box

A fuel line connects the two fuel tanks with shut off

valves in the lower, inboard aft corners of the two
tanks, underneath the mesh organizer bags in

pilothouse settee lockers. The port valve is shown
in this picture. Generally, It’s a good idea to keep

these closed, allowing each engine to draw from
its own tank and to make filling the tanks easier.

With valves closed, fuel tanks can also be used to
correct static trim. If you have more gear stored on

one side of the boat than the other, add less fuel
to the heavier side.to equalize.

CHAPTER 5

PORT TANK showing fuel shut-off for port
engine as well as AC Compressor.

22

5.2

5.3

FUEL SYSTEM

FILLING THE TANKS

Deck fills are mounted on the side decks, port & starboard, and are labeled “DIESEL.” Each one
services only its respective tank, although with the connecting fuel line valve open, you will get

some transfer to the opposite tank. As the tank is filled, vapor escapes the tank thru the vent.
Overflow is prevented by an in-line fuel/air separator that will not allow fuel to pass.

should be taken while filling. Check the fuel level gauges and listen for the rise

in pitch at the deck fill, as fuel reaches the top. Shut off the nozzle immediately. Do not attempt to
“top off” the tanks. Have an absorbent cloth handy to prevent any overboard spillage. Variations

in temperature as well as trim angle could cause overflow or vent-line blockage.

RACOR PRIMARY FUEL FILTERS

Racor Filters are your first line of defense against
bad fuel and are installed on the bulkhead just

forward of the engines and accessed by opening
the aft seat engine hatch. Check these filters

regularly for any accumulation of water or
contamination. Water will appear as a dirty gray,

cloudy substance in the clear bowl. You should be
able to see thru the pink fuel in the bowl at all

times. Also, you should not see bubbles passing
through the filter while running. This would indicate

a leak on the suction side of the fuel system.

FILTER ACCESS LID – Be sure to close fuel
shut-off valve before opening. Be careful to

seal properly without pinching gasket.

FUEL LINES from tank and to engine

CLEAR GLASS INSPECTION BOWL

WATER DRAIN PETCOCK – If water seen
in bowl, hold a paper cup under the petcock

and drain until clear fuel seen.

The chart below is prepared from the first seatrial in Boston Harbor, September 2010. Fuel
efficiency is expected to improve marginally as the engine breaks in.

Range of Efficient Operation It’s interesting to note that it doesn’t matter whether you are going
11 knots or 30 knots on a 36z, nautical miles per gallon remain fairly constant.

Cruising Speed Yanmar suggest that given suitable conditions, 10% below wide open
throttle, or about 3600 RPM at close to knots is an acceptable cruising speed.

CHAPTER 5

5.4 FUEL CONSUMPTION

23

CHAPTER 5

FUEL EFFICIENCY

RPM

670
1000
1500
2000
2500

3000
3200
3400
3600
3800
3950

*Range based on
90% of 200 gallon
capacity

Remember that fuel level readings when underway, with the fuel pushing back

in the tank where the fuel level sensor is located, could be reading " tank more than what’s really

there. So, when you get down to 1/3 tank, it’s time to top off.... not roll the dice on finding another

fuel dock open later in the day.

FUEL SYSTEM

GPH

.7

1.5

4.0

7.4

17.3

18,5

22.0

25,5

26,7

28.9

KTS

4.5

6.6

9.5

14.1

25.4

27.2

29.8

31,5

34.2

36.0

NMPG NMrng*

6.4

4.4

2.4

1.9

1.9

1.5

1.5

1.9

1.4

1.2

1.3

1.2

RANGE

1152

792

432

342

342

270

270

252

252

234

216

24

11,0

20.4

MJM FUEL CONSUMPTION LOG

DATE LOCATION

ENG+
HRS

HRS+

since+

LAST+

FILL

GALS+

to+FILL

GPH COMMENTS

6.0

6.1

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

GENERAL

The 36z’s electrical system may be more advanced than what you are accustomed to as it
combines DC and AC power in several ways.

Most of the electrical components on your boat use 12 volt DC power from 4-5 batteries totaling
nearly 700 Ampere Hours of capacity. This battery capacity is recharged in 3 ways:(1) Alternator

output from the engines when running; (2) From 110V 60cyle AC shorepower through the
Mastervolt Charger or (3) From the Northern Lights Generator which outputs 110V 60 cycle

power to the charger.

120 volt AC power, typically found in homes, is supplied to the boat in 3 ways: (1) via 1 or 2
shore-power cords plugged into a shoreside receptacle (2) by an optional generator or (3) by

inverting DC power from a battery into AC power through the Mastervolt Inverter. The AC
components aboard your boat include the cooktop, microwave, some TV components, the air-

conditioning, water heater, inverter, and receptacles (to plug in your own AC equipment).

Both AC and DC electrical power sources are potentially dangerous. Do

not attempt to work on any part of your boat’s electrical system if you are not a qualified
marine electrician.

12 VOLT DC

There are two battery banks on your boat. The house bank consists of (2) 200Ah, absorbed-glass
mat (D4 AGM) batteries. The engine bank consists of two 105Ah Group 31 AGM start batteries

which are also used to run the windlass. Whenever a charging source is present (either from the
battery charger or an engine-driven alternator) both banks are automatically charged. AGM

batteries are essentially no-maintenance.

Do not attempt to open the batteries. Other than keeping them properly charged,

stored, and clean (especially between the terminals), there is virtually nothing you need to do to
them. The battery charger is factory set specifically for AGMs.

If the engine is not running, the batteries can be
charged via the battery charger, which is powered by

AC electricity either from your generator or shore­power. It is important to read and understand the

inverter/charger manual to be sure that the unit is
functioning as you expect.

Never allow your DC system’s

voltage to fall below 11.2 volts. Sensitive electronics
may fail to function. For this reason, it is advisable

when leaving the boat to turn off all loads, turn off
their respective circuit breakers, and turn off the

main DC battery switches.

24 Hour Circuits The only load that remains on
when the battery switches are in the OFF position

are the “24 Hour” circuits (shown at right) which by­pass the panel circuit breakers and are connected

directly to the batteries. These are located to port,
outboard and forward in the cockpit sole locker.

CHAPTER 6

BILGE PUMP

BILGE PUMP

BILGE PUMP

HIGH WATER ALRM

STEREO MEM

DVD MEM

26

CHAPTER 6

House and Generator battery switches

These rocker switches with sliding cover are located
on the upper right side of the DC panel with a Battery

Combiner between. When the battery combiner
switch is pushed DOWN, it is OFF. Pushed in UP it

is ON. It is recommended to leave it in the middle
AUTO position where it stays active at over 13.6 volts

and deactivates below 12.7 volts.

DC Breaker Panel This custom MJM panel Includes
digital readouts for voltage and amperage drain of the

House Bank in Position 1 of the display and reads
condition of the generator battery in Position 2.

To use DC components, the HOUSE battery bank
Rocker switch must be ON, the top main DC dis­connect

breaker on the panel must be ON,

and the

component’s respective breaker must be ON.

Windlass Operation The windlasss uses Engine
Batteries, so it is necessary to have the Engine

Battery switches turned ON and ideally have the
engines operating when using the windlass.

The GENERATOR battery switch must remain on
when running.

Engine Battery Switches The two Engine Battery

Switches are located on the top right corner of the
AC Panel. To start the engines or use the windlass,

the engine START battery switches must remain
ON. The Combiner switch between, manually in the

UP position combines the two engine start batteries
should one of them fail. The DOWN position is OFF

and the MIDDLE position is AUTOMATIC combining
of the two engine batteries and also the house bank

if voltage is under 12.7 volts…deactivating when

over 13.7 volts.

6.2 AC PANEL

Breaker Panel The main AC disconnect breakers

for AC #1 and AC #2 are located in the middle of the
AC Panel. They must be ON for shore-power to

supply the boat’s AC power.

AC Shore 1 (left half) includes breakers for those
items which can be handled by the Mastervolt

Inverter. To use the inverter, (1) the house battery
selector switch must be ON and (2) the inverter

breaker on the AC panel must be ON. Refer to the
inverter/charger manual for more information.

When the Shore 1 shore-power cable is attached
and the Shore 1 select breaker is ON, Shore 1 will

supply AC power to AC Panel #1.

27

Freshwater Tank Level Guage

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

6.3

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

The AC Transfer switch allows either Shore 1 or generator to power the AC Panel #2 circuits. If
this function is utilized, be aware that using too many AC appliances at once will cause a

shorepower breaker to blow.

AC Panel #2 (aft or right half of panel) is designed for those items having too much load for
the batteries and inverter, thus requiring either shorepower or the generator to supply AC power.

The high amperage water heater and air- conditioning systems are best supplied with a
shorepower cord to stern INLET #2 which by-passes the inverter and goes right to AC Panel #2.

However, they can also be powered from shorepower Inlet #1 using the TRANSFER feature of
the panel so long as one doesn’t try to use the Microwave and/or Cooktop or both the Water

Heater and AC at the same time.

CHARGING The main HOUSE battery switch can be switched OFF when the boat is not used,
and the batteries will still accept a charge from 120V SHOREPOWER through the battery

charger. Obviously, to keep the Refrigerator going, you’d have to leave the main HOUSE battery
switch ON as well as the DC Refrigeration breaker switch ON.

If present on your AC Panel 1, leave
“Inverter/Charger” breaker ON. If you are
leaving the boat plugged into shore-power
and you wish to turn off all DC loads but still
be able charge batteries. Turn off the top
Main DC rocker switch above the DC panel.

VICTRON INVERTER/CHARGER

The Victron 12/3000/120-50 3KW QUATTRO
Inverter Charger is fully automatic. Under
normal circumstances there is no need for
adjustment or operation besides switching on
and off.

Disconnecting shore power with INVERTER

switch left ON may cause discharge of the

house battery bank. Best to leave the switch

shown at right in the middle OFF position when leaving the boat on a mooring or stored without a

shorepower hookup. The panel is the face of the Victron unit on top of the fuel tank in the starboard

pilothouse settee locker.

The DIGITAL MULTI CONTROL
shown at right in the “Charge” mode, is a digital
remote panel switches on and off the unit. (See
Victron Operators Manual.

The 36z uses a combination inverter/charger
(in a single unit). When AC power is sourced
from Shorepower or the Generator the unit can
charge both the house battery bank and the
engine start batteries with the toggle switch UP.

INVERTING See Victron Operators Manual

CHAPTER 6

28

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

6.4 AC SHOREPOWER

The first of three ways to supply AC power to boat
appliances/systems is through Shorepower #1 and #2

30A 125V connections in the transom. These are shown
Left to Right with the 3rd Inlet for a TV cable hook-up

The cover lid springs open by pushing in at the bottom,

If two 30A 125V sockets are not available on the dock,

very often you will find a 50A 225V socket to which you
can connect a “Y” pigtail (West Marine 410373 or

12998415).

If you overload, an AC circuit, one of two AC shorepower
breakers may trip. To reset, locate the shorepower

breaker box (shown at right) in the aft starboard corner of
cockpit locker. Be sure both switches are ON.

Hot Water If a second shore-power receptacle is not
available and you have not operated the boat in the past
day, there won’t be any hot water from the engine’s
heat exchanger. Simply shift the single cord from the
Shore 1 receptacle aft to the Shore 2, flick the Hot Water
Breaker on, wait 15 minutes and your shower will be ready.

CHAPTER 6

29

6.5

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

AC GENERATOR (Optional)

The generator, used to create AC electrical power, is located in the aft cockpit sole locker.
To operate, The generator battery selector switch at the top of the DC Panel must be ON and the
generator must be selected on the AC panel.

Pre-Start Checks [refer to labeled diagram that follows)

(1) Check that cooling water is 1” below filler cap (2) Check the oil at dipstick
(3) Open fuel line lever over starboard fuel tank.

(4) Close the raw water seacock, check & clean sea strainer & reopen the seacock (cockpit locker)
(5) Reach behind the Generator Control Box [13] and be sure that the AC Circuit Breaker

and AVR Circuit Breaker are both in the “Up” position
(5) Turn ON battery switch for Generator. Note the battery switch must always be kept ON while

the generator is running. If the switch is turned OFF with genset running, the battery charging
regulator could be ruined.

(6) Turn OFF all AC Panel 1&2 switches/breakers, including Generator double-handled switches
on top of AC Panels 1 & 2 and AC Breakers below.

PREHEAT: On the Control Panel, depress PREHEAT switch ON for 10-20 seconds to activate
control system

START: Then, depress START switch
while continuing to depress PREHEAT

switch. When generator starts, release
both switches. Do not crank for more

than 20 seconds at a time. Allow the
generator to run for about 15 seconds

until LED green light appears next to

“Generator” on AC 1 Panel below

(forward most) indicating that the panel

is receiving electric current.

is receiving electric current.

CHAPTER 6

30

CHAPTER 6

ACTIVATE AC PANEL 1: When the green LED light appears on AC 1 Panel, turn ON double
Generator Selector switch for AC 1 ONLY. There is a delay until Volts (about 115) register in the

digital display over AC-1.

ACTIVATE AC PANEL 2: Select “CHARGE” on the Xantrex Panel and when the light comes on
Green, the double-Generator Selector switch for AC 2 can be turned ON.

See that AC volts are now reading on the digital meter over AC Panel 2.

TURN BREAKERS ON for the items you wish to operate.

Note: if the generator starts, but no AC voltage is seen at the panel, check first that the selector
switches (sliding interlocks) at the top of the AC panel are ON. If so and still no voltage reading, there
is a possibility the generator was overloaded and the AC breaker on the generator itself) has
tripped due to a momentary overload. Open the generator cover and reset (pull up) the AC Output
Circuit Breaker.

STOP: First, remove any electrical load from the generator Allow the engine to run for a 3-5 minute
cool-down period. Depress STOP momentarily on the lower part of the rocker switch.

Break-In Period Change engine oil and filter at 50 hours and again at 100 hours. Oil consumption is
greater until piston rings are seated. Maintain at least a 75% load on the generator for the first 100

hours, varying the load to help seat the rings.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

CHAPTER 6

6.6

As a safety precaution, your AC panel is fitted with reverse polarity

indicators. If an AC supply were wired incorrectly, either aboard your boat or shoreside, a
dangerous shock situation could exist. Normally, the reverse polarity lights should not be

illuminated. If they are, disconnect that source of power and alert the appropriate person.

6.7

Metallic fittings, particularly the aluminum
sterndrives, that are exposed to saltwater are

subject to electrolysis and galvanic corrosion. To minimize potential
damage, your boat is fitted with a sacrificial zinc on the transom, on the
drives themselves (2), on the top of the trim tabs and on the bow thruster

if this option is fitted. This transom zinc is connected to the bonding
system of your boat. That zinc and others should be visually inspected at

least monthly or and replaced before 1/2 of the zinc has been eroded.
Pay special attention to its condition, with even more frequent visual

inspection when in new waters and marinas, as environmental
conditions affect the rate of deterioration. If the zinc erodes rapidly,

current meters can be used to assess possible causes and
remedies. The zincs on top of the cavitation plates of the stern

drives can be easily inspected idaily. The forward zinc underneath each
drive (shown at right) most be inspected by a diver.

5 Zincs are seen in this photo of Volvo Drives: Trim Tab (2), Drive (2) and Transom
Zinc (1) . The Yanmar Drives have zincs on the lifter arms as well as under the Drives.

REVERSE POLARITY
ELECTROLYSIS & GALVANIC CORROSION

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

32

CHAPTER 6

6.8

The bonding system of your boat connects all underwater metallic fittings to the sacrificial zinc
and the boat’s negative bus bar. In order for the zinc to protect an underwater part, the
connection must be clean and secure. The green wires that make up this system are not normally
current carrying.

6.9

Please read and understand the important safety precautions included in the included ISO CE
Mark approved Owner’s Manual” concerning electrical safety.

6.10 BREAKER & FUSE LOCATIONS & SPECIFICATIONS

6.11 RAYMARINE FUSE LIST (Includes Options)

Chart Plotter
Autopilot X-Can

SeaTalk ng
SeaTalk

Network Switch
RD424D Digital Radar

RS125 GPS
DSM 300 Fishfinder

Ray55 VHF radio
SR100 Sirius Receiver

SR6 Sirius Receiver / Network Switch
AIS 500 Transceiver

6.12 IN-LINE and ANL FUSE LIST/LOCATION

Item / Fuse Label

1
2
3
4

5

6

7

8

BONDING

ELECTRICAL SAFETY

Bilge Pump 1

Bilge Pump 2

Bilge Pump 3

Bilge Pump 1

Bilge Pump 2

Bilge Pump 3

Stereo Memory

DVD Memory

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Size

5 amp

5 amp

5 amp

7.5 amp

7.5 amp

7.5 amp

15 amp

15 amp

Type

AGC

AGC

AGC

ATC

ATC

ATC

ATC

ATC

Fuse Block next to House Battery 1 (Stbd

Settee Hatch)

Fuse Block next to House Battery 1 (Stbd

Settee Hatch)

Fuse Block next to House Battery 1 (Stbd

Settee Hatch)

Fuse Block next to House Battery 1 (Stbd

Settee Hatch)

Fuse Block next to House Battery 1 (Stbd

Settee Hatch)

7 Amps

10 Amps

3 Amps

3 Amps

1 Amp

15 Amps (10A breaker)

1 Amp

8 Amps

10 Amps

2 Amps

2 Amps

5 Amps

In the Bilge Pump Switch at the Dash

In the Bilge Pump Switch at the Dash

In the Bilge Pump Switch at the Dash

Location

33

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

20

21

22
23
24

25

1
2
3

4
5
6
7
8

11

12
13

High Water Alarm

Sea Fire Supply

House Switch Supply

House Remote Supply

Start 1 Switch Supply

Start 1 Remote Supply

Start 2 Switch Supply

Start 2 Remote Supply

Combiner 1 Negative

Combiner 2 Negative

Engine Room Blower

VacuFlush

Trim Tab Retract Wire

House Battery Voltage

Sense

Windlass Fuse

24H Fuse Block

Main Panel Fuse

Start Battery 1 Fuse

House Battery 1 Fuse

Start Battery 2 Fuse

House Battery 2 Fuse

House Bank Fuse

Inverter Charger Fuse

Inverter Fuse

Emergency Parallel

Generator Battery

20 amp

10 amp

15 amp

5 amp

15 amp

5 amp

15 amp

5 amp

15 amp

15 amp

30 amp

3 amp

30 amp

15 amp

2 amp

100 amps
100 amps
100 amps

200 amps
200 amps
200 amps
200 amps
250 amps

250 amps

250 amps
200 amps

ATC

ATC

AGC

AGC

AGC

AGC

AGC

AGC

AGC

AGC

AGC

AGC

AGC

AGC
AGC
AGC

ATC

AGC

ANL
ANL
ANL

ANL
ANL
ANL
ANL
ANL
ANL
ANL
ANL

ANL
ANL

34

Fuse Block next to House Battery 1 (Stbd

Settee Hatch)

Fuse Block next to House Battery 1 (Stbd

Settee Hatch)

House Bus at the Fuse Board (Stbd Settee

Hatch)

Remote Battery Switch next to House Battery 2

(Port Settee Hatch)

Remote Battery Switch next to House Battery 2

(Port Settee Hatch)

Remote Battery Switch next to Start Battery 1

(Stbd Settee Hatch)

Remote Battery Switch next to Start Battery 1

(Stbd Settee Hatch)

Remote Battery Switch next to Start Battery 2

(Stbd Settee Hatch)

Remote Battery Switch next to Start Battery 2

(Stbd Settee Hatch)

Remote Battery Switch next to Generator

Battery (Port Settee Hatch)

Remote Battery Switch next to Generator

Battery (Port Settee Hatch)

Battery Combiner next to Air Conditioner

Control (Bridge Deck Hatch)

Battery Combiner next to Air Conditioner

Control (Bridge Deck Hatch)

Start Battery (Stbd Settee Hatch)

Top of the Holding Tank (Port Aft Hatch)

Inside Electrical Panel (line side of the DC

Panel)

Fuse Block next to House Battery 1 (Stbd

Settee Hatch)

Generator Battery ( Aft Hatch)

Stbd Setee Hatch (next to the inverter/charger)

Stbd Setee Hatch ( next to the house battery)

Stbd Setee Hatch (next to inverter/charger)

Aft Deck Hatch (behind start battery)

Stbd Setee Hatch ( next to the house battery)

Aft Deck Hatch (behind start battery)
Port Setee Hatch (next to the house battery)
Port Setee Hatch (next to the house battery)

Stbd Setee Hatch ( next to the house battery)

Port Setee Hatch (next to the house battery)

Stbd Setee Hatch (next to the

inverter/charger))

Stbd Setee Hatch ( next to the house battery)

Port Setee Hatch (next to the house battery)

CHAPTER 6

9 Emergency Parallel Supply 15 amp

18 Generator Switch Supply 15 amp

19 Generator Remote Supply 5 amp

26 Generator Voltage Sense

ATC - Plastic Fuse / AGC - Glass

Fuse

9 House Parallel Fuse Stbd 250 amps

10 House Parallel Fuse Port 250 amps

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

7.0

7.1

7.2

7.3

7.4

7.5

FRESHWATER SYSTEM

GENERAL

Your boat incorporates a pressurized freshwater system. A single 100-gallon tank supplies a
pump which maintains a constant pressure in the system.

FILLING

A deck fill is provided on the starboard side and is labeled WATER. As the tank is filled, air
escapes thru the vent.

USING & MAINTAINING

The freshwater pump is turned on at the DC breaker panel. If the pump is heard running
continually, check that no faucet has been left open. If this is not the case, turn off the pump and

check that the tank has not been emptied. The freshwater system is not a perfectly sealed circuit
and it is not uncommon to hear the pump cycle, but if this short cycling occurs more than once

per hour, the system and/or pump should be checked for leaks. Some users will want to turn the
pump off at night to avoid hearing it cycle.

The pump is protected from sediment by an in-line strainer mounted adjacent to the pump. The
strainer should be checked periodically and cleaned if necessary.

DOCK INLET

A dock inlet is installed to permit hooking up with a standard hose. When hooked up to dock
water, be sure to turn OFF the Fresh Water breaker on the DC Panel, because pressure is then

from the city supply and it’s possible that should boat pressure exceed city water pressure, you
could empty your tanks, donating boat water to the city water supply.

HOT WATER

Water in the 13-gallon hot water tank is heated in one of 2 ways:

(1) By the engine through the heat exchanger whenever the engine is running or for as long as

24 hours after then engine has stopped run and the Water Heater is turned OFF.

(2) When the Water Heater breaker on AC Panel #2 is turned ON and the boat is connected to

shorepower or the generator is running.

The hot water tank is part of the freshwater system and does not need to be filled separately.
There is virtually no need for maintenance, but the connections at the tank should be visually

inspected occasionally.

The coolant lines from one engine to the tank have shut-off valves, located in the forward port
side of the engine compartment. These need to be open in order for the engine to heat the water

in the tank. For service, or in case or a ruptured line, these valves can be closed to stop this
water loop.

GENERAL ECOLOGY SEAGULL WATER PURIFIER (Option)

[See also Seagull owner’s manual] The galley is fitted with the best available water purifier in the
world. It is used on 85 airlines. This purifier has a cartridge (in stainless pressure vessel under
sink) that should be replaced annually or when reduced water flow indicates that it has become
plugged with sediment. It is best to clear the pressure water system of any winter anti-freeze

before running water through the cartridge. The filter is rated for 1000 gallons, which is
approximately 15 water tanks’ worth. Replace it at least once per year.

CHAPTER 7

35

8.1

8.2

8.3

RAW WATER COOLING SYSTEM

GENERAL

Raw water (seawater) is used to cool the engine and the generator. It is also used in
air-conditioning options.

ENGINE RAW WATER

The Yanmar D3 engines have integral raw water intakes without seacocks, but with strainers
on the forward starboard top of the engines.

The generator (if fitted) has a raw water intake seacocks and strainers. Before using the make
sure its seacock is in the INTAKE position.

In either case, it’s good practice to visually inspect the strainers daily to insure that they are not
fouled. Using an engine with restricted raw water flow can cause over-heating and damage to the

engine. When you start an engine, it is advisable to check the exhaust as it exits the boat to make
sure water is being mixed into the exhaust gas. You should see a surge of water every few

seconds. (It may take more than a few seconds for the first surge.)

ADDITIONAL RAW WATER USERS

In addition to the engines and generator, the air-conditioning system will use raw water and have
a seacock(s) and a strainer that needs to be open and clear for the proper operation of

equipment.

CHAPTER 8

36

9.1

SANITATION SYSTEM

MARINE VACUFLUSH HEAD SYSTEM

WARNING Waste discharge regulations vary by location.

Check with local authorities.

The waste system aboard your boat employs freshwater and a
vacuum generator. The Fresh Water pump breaker and Head

breaker must both be on (DC panel) for the system to work.
Further controls are located on a panel in the head (shown).

When the foot-pedal of the toilet is depressed for about 3
seconds, waste is drawn through the vacuum generator to the

waste tank. Tank capacity is 18 gallons, which may seem small,
but since each flush requires about a cup full of fresh water

compared to the several quarts of sea-water using a
conventional marine pump-head, the capacity is more than

adequate and there’s no odor.

Waste can be discharged two ways:

(a) Dock Pump Out via the shore-side pump­out fitting on deck labeled WASTE using marina

facilities. To effectively remove all the waste
from the holding tank using, be sure to first turn

OFF the vacuum pump system and step on the
head flush pedal to remove all vacuum.

(b) Overboard Discharge beyond restricted
waste disposal zones by (1) OPENING (if not

already) the large waste thru-Hull discharge
valve, accessible to starboard and aft in the

engine compartment locker then (2) TURN &
HOLD the switch in the Head to the right to

activate overboard pumping using the macerator
pump. The control panel lights indicate the

level of waste in the holding tank. The level can
be double-checked by viewing the dark waste

line through the side of the semi-transparent
holding tank from the starboard aft cockpit

locker.

WARNING Before activating this

discharge, check to insure compliance
with local regulations.

Refer to the manufacturer’s manual for more details.

CHAPTER 9

37

CHAPTER 10

10.1 GENERAL

Gray water is liquid that can legally be pumped overboard, generally from sink drains, shower
drains, and bilges. Your boat also directs deck run-off to of all gray water through common drains

(port & starboard) in the transom.

10.2 GRAY WATER TANK

The gray water sump box aboard your boat is located in the bilge under the panel below the
bottom companionway step. This collects water from the shower drain, the refrigerator drain, and

the air-conditioning condensation (if fitted). The sump pump switch on the DC panel operates a
bilge pump with normal float switch to empty the tank when any of the above systems are in use.

Periodically, the cover of the tank can be removed and the contents cleaned.

10.3 BILGE PUMPS

There are three bilge pumps fitted on your boat, and
an emergency engine driven system.

The manual bilge pump under the helm station is
operated by opening the plastic cover, inserting the

handle, and pumping up and down. There is a
noticeable difference when the bilge has run dry.

This pump is most often used as a back-up system
to the three automatic pumps. Its capacity is 15

gal/min.

The automatic pumps, located aft in the engine
compartment, in the cockpit locker and under the

companionway steps, are wired directly to the 24
hours house battery bank. This means that even when

the main battery switches are OFF, the bilge pump can
continue to function properly. A three-way switch

controls the pumps. When held in the manual position, you can check pump operation as the
pump will work regardless of whether there is water in the bilge or not. In the OFF position, the

pump will not turn on. In the AUTO position, the pump operates if the water level rises. If water is
detected, the pump continues to run until the water is gone. Generally, the pump should be left in

the AUTO position.

10.4 HIGH WATER ALARM

A high water alarm is fitted to the boat with the sensor located aft in the engine compartment
and the control panel on the bulkhead to starboard of the wheel.

10.5 COMMON DRAINS

To eliminate unnecessary thruhull penetrations in the topsides, a common drain system is utilized
on both port and starboard. [See Figure 14.7] Make sure, especially when air-conditioning is

running, that the outlets for these drains, located in the transom under the swim platform, are not
obstructed. Items that drain into the common drains include: hatch gutters, galley and head sinks,

deck drains, sump tank and air-conditioning discharge.

GRAY WATER SYSTEM

BILGE PUMP SWITCHES

38

CHAPTER 11

11.1 GENERAL

Although all the exterior equipment on your boat was selected with marine service in mind, it is
helpful to rinse the boat with freshwater after exposure to saltwater.

11.2 ANCHOR WINDLASS (Optional)

Refer to the manual that came with your windlass for specific operating instructions.

The windlass draws lots of power from the house bank. It’s advisable to only use the windlass
when the engine is running, and to allow time for the battery to recharge after windlass use.

Never try to move the boat forward with the windlass- it is sized to retrieve the anchoring gear,
not to pull the boat forward. If the windlass bogs down, use the boat’s engine to move directly

over the anchor. If the anchor has become firmly lodged, use the boat’s engine to free it, then
commence retrieval with the windlass. Note: always let the windlass come to a stop before

reversing direction; otherwise, the windlass fuse/breaker may blow.

To use the windlass, the engine start battery switch and house battery switch must both be ON
and the windlass breaker on the panel must be ON.

If the windlass is allowing the chain or rode to slip, tighten the break with the windlass handle
provided by inserting it into the socket on top.

To avoid chafe on the anchor rode when anchoring, it is advisable to remove the

rode from the anchor roller by grabbing it below the roller, then pulling it up directly from the
anchor, feeding it through a bow chock to a mooring cleat. Never rely on the windlass itself to

hold the anchor rode- a chain stopper or a cleat should be used to take the load so as to avoid
damaging the windlass’ gears or having it run out unexpectedly.

When not using the windlass or when underway, we recommend securing the

anchor and chain with a spare fender warp to one of the mooring cleats. This prevents the
anchor and rode from inadvertently running free underway and fouling the prop.

Anchor Washer By holding down the switch on the console for the Anchor Washer, when the
Fresh Water breaker on the DC Panel is ON, you are able wash the anchor rode and chain with a

spray of fresh water as it is being retrieved. The anchor washer is a spray nozzle located on the
stem of the boat under the anchor roller.

11.3 PILOTHOUSE CURTAINS

There are 3 options with aft curtains (1) the most common is to roll up the center section with
screen/window and secure with 2 straps, leaving the side aft curtains in place. (2) roll up all 3 aft

curtains by keeping all 3 zipped together and rolled up as a single unit. (3) roll up just the clear
window of the center section, leaving the screen in place.

Do not use any chemicals or brushes to clean, only mild soap. If the curtains become scratched a
mild polishing compound (a white cream similar to what is used on Awlgrip) can be applied by

hand to remove them. Test a small, unobtrusive area first.

These curtains are easier to snap on when they expand in the heat than when they shrink in the
cold. So, it’s best to secure them when it’s still reasonably warm. Always store curtains rolled

(usually several together and not folded) in a dry place to prevent creasing or shrinking.

OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT

39

CHAPTER 11

11.4 PRIVACY/SUNSCREEN CURTAINS (OPTION)

Fine white mesh allows you to see out but makes it difficult to see in. When installed at night,
these curtains convert the Pilothouse (34z Shown) into an additional stateroom. The 7 Curtain

set comes rolled up in its own carry bag. Curtains attach to the inside of the windshields with
Velcro and on fixed side windows on openings with shock cord retainers. The best way to store

the curtains is to lay them all on top of each other on the pilothouse table, lining up the edges
nearest to you and letting the tails accumulate on the far port side of the table and on top the the

port settee. Then roll them all up together and slide them into the tubular storage bag.

11.5 DC REFRIGERATION (Optional)

The top-opening refrigeration unit utilizes a cold-plate within
the refrigerator enclosure which is chilled by a DC powered

unit mounted on top the port fuel tank. The refrigerator
breaker on the DC panel must be ON for the unit to work.

The thermostat for the system is located in the icebox. Once
on, the unit will self-regulate. For further information and

troubleshooting procedures, refer to the Seafrost operating
manual.

The partitions in the refrigerator are designed to create
freezing temperatures next to the cold plate where the ice-

trays are located and under the sliding drawer where 10 lb.
bags of ice cubes may be stored.

A drain into the gray water sump is located in the aft inboard
corner of the icebox. It’s a good idea to put a cork in this

when using refrigeration, so that warm air cannot enter.

OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT

THERMOSTAT

40

CHAPTER 11

2 FREEZER AREAS

11.6 COOKTOP (Optional)

The galley cooktop aboard your boat is powered by AC electricity. To use it, make sure the
cooktop breaker on the AC panel is ON and that either the inverter, generator or shorepower is

supplying AC power.

Do not leave the cooktop ON while unattended.

11.7 MICROWAVE OVEN (Optional)

This 5 way convection oven/microwave unit offers multiple cooking modes which maybe
operated witho or without shorepower or generator by utilizing the inverter for AC power and

turning ON the switch on AC Panel #1. Please refer to the Users Manual for operating
instructions and precautions. The manual is stored inside the oven when the boat is initially

delivered.

11.8 MARINE-AIR AIR-CONDITIONING (Optional)

If installed, the 16,000 BTU air-conditioning system can help keep the interior of the boat cool. It
also has reverse cycle to act as a heater. For a full explanation of the A/C controls, see the

manufacturer’s user’s manual.

Adjustable louvers are located in the duct outlets to direct more or less air into the main cabin or
into the pilothouse. With the curtains lowered, the pilothouse air temperature can be reasonably

controlled. The capacity of the unit is designed to efficiently cool interior cabin and can help
make the pilothouse cooler in very hot weather, particularly in harbor when the privacy/sunscreen

curtains are installed. The heat works particularly well to warm both the interior and pilothouse if
the sea temperature is above 40 degrees.

OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT

41

CHAPTER 11

To adjust fan speed range to the lowest setting “1” so that the fan is operating softly and hardly
noticable, while leaving the high-speed setting “6” has good volume:

Push the Fan Control button until “P1” shows. Then Press Star to select “P2” .Press Up or Down
Arrow until reading “65”. Press Star to get to “P3”. Press Up or Down Arrow until reading “40”

The A/C system uses raw water, much like the engine, for heat exchange. There is an intake
seacock, strainer & pump located in the port pilothouse locker. These should be

checked frequently, and are the first things to check if the unit fails to deliver cold air or displays
HPL fault. If the boat has been stored on a lift or pulled out of the water, very often an airlock will
form. This can be solved by closing the seacock, removing the top of the raw water filter, filling it
with a cup of water, then restarting the AC. Another was is to shoot a dock hose into the hull outlet.

WARNING When operating the Air Conditioning System, be sure the SUMP PUMP is

ON at the DC panel so that air conditioning condensate is pumped overboard.

11.9 WALLAS 40D DIESEL HEATER (Optional)

This heater is DC powered, controlled by a thermostat on the forward side of the entertainment

Center and draws diesel fuel from the starboard fuel tank. Please read the manual for instructions

Do not use the Circuit Breaker Switch to Turn off the Heater when it is

operating. Before turning off the breaker switch, be sure to turn the control panel from

heat to vent until the heating element has a chance to cool off.

11.10 FUSION 700 PLAYER (Optional)

This multi-media unit operates on DC power. The STEREO breaker on the DC panel must be

ON. See the instruction manual for operating details.

OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT

42

CHAPTER 11

11.11 SIRIUS SATELLITE RADIO ACTIVATION (Optional)

To activate Sirius Satellite Radio services on the Clarion XMD4, you will need the serial number:

(1) Push the “MENU” button in the upper right set.. (2) Using the right or left arrow scroll to “SID
DISP”. (3) The first 6 digits of the serial number will be displayed. (4) Turn the rotary dialing know

counter-clockwise to display the last 6 digits of the SID (5) Call Sirius at 1-888-539-7474 to
activate, conveying the 12 digits of the Serial Number..

11.12 LED TELEVISION AND DVD

(Optional)

The TV operates on AC power and the DVD
player on DC. To operate the TV turn ON the

“Stereo” and “TV/DVD” Breakers on the DC
Panel and turn ON the “TV” Breaker on AC

Panel 1. AC power for the TV may be
produced by the Inverter from the House DC

Batteries, from AC Shore Power 1 or from the
Generator.

Video signals maybe acquired from the DVD,
from a dockside cable TV outlet, from a

conventional local TV antenna or from the
optional KVH satellite dish system.

The face of the TV is secured in place by two
push-button latches. The support arm will

secure the face at the ideal viewing angle. No
storage is lost. One has access to the wine

rack, DVD player, a CD Changer (rare these
days of the iPod or iPhone) and bookshelf.

The TV maybe interfaced with the Raymarine
E120 Navigational Plotter to play video on

deck or to serve as a Nav Repeater below.

Surround-Sound may be achieved using the
“AUX” function on the Clarion Stereo Receiver

to integrate both TV Audio and the 4 Speaker
Stereo Audio.

Or, Kids can watch TV with dedicated TV
Audio belowdecks while parents are listening

to jazz from their iPhone using the AUX with
the “Fade” function directing all sound to the 2

cockpit speakers.

4
3

OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT

CHAPTER 11

11.13 FLIR INFRARED NIGHT VISION (Optional)

This new technology for the marine industry
takes away the guesswork in terms of depth

perception when looking at running lights of
boats ahead or in being able to spot crab or

lobster pots. It is particularly useful when
entering a crowded harbor at night.

The FLIR can be controlled either through the Raymarine e165 Display (See those
instructions) or through a separate control panel shown hrere.

Power/DIM Push to turn ON or STANDBY. Press to select 4 levels of brightness

Menu Access screen menu and navigate with Puck

User Programmable to allow user to access favorite settings. See Operating Manual.

Scene Toggles through preconfigured images

Color Selects gray sale through color & red night vision

Home Usually set straight ahead and levlel

PUCK (Joystick) FUNCTIONS

Pan Twist the knob

Raise/Lower Tilt knob forward/aft to lower/raise.

Zoom Push down on knob for 1 sec for 2X…..2 sec for 4X. Pull up to return to 2x, up

again for no zoom.

Freeze Frame Press down twice quickly. Any other action on panel unfreezes.

4
4

OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT

CHAPTER 12

12.1 Refer to the following chart as a general guide but not the gosple for routine maintenance actions
on the engines installed in your boat. Refer to the engine manual for the complete instructions on each

item. Perform all maintenance once a year even if hour levels have not been reached. Some of the items
you may choose to leave to professionals, but many you can do yourself. In particular, it is a good idea to

have a certified mechanic perform check-ups from time to time on the engine, generator, and any other
key equipment installed onboard. Yanmar & Northern Lights engines are assumed – check your

manuals if your brands differ.

ITEM FREQUENCY ACTION

ENGINE

Oil Level Daily Check Change after 1st 50 hrs, then ea. 200 hrs

Lube Oil Filters Replace after 1st 50 hrs, then ea. 200 hrs

Air Cleaner Check ea. 50 hrs Clean if necessary and replace oil.

V-Belt Tension Check ea. 50 hrs Tension if necessary.

Remove Zincs & Check Every 100 hrs At each oil change or 6 months

Check Valve Clearances Check after 1st 50 then ea. 500 hrs

Turbo Charger Every 200 hrs Clean Blower

Mounts Annually Tighten

Exhaust Elbow Weekly Check Check for leaks.

Transmission Oil Daily Check Add if necessary

Valve Clearance & Injectors Check 500 hrs.

Oil in Bilge Daily Identify source, Correct, Clean-Up

FUEL SYSTEM

Tanks/Valves/Connections Monthly Inspect for leaks and ease of valve operation

Racor Primary Fuel Filter Daily Clean if necessary. Change ea. 200 hrs.

Secondary Engine Filter Change ea. 200 hrs. or when necessary.

Fuel System When necessary Bleed

Injectors Check ea. 500 hrs

Fuel Injection Pump Check Every 2400 hrs.

GENERATOR

Oil Level Daily or ea 8 hrs. Check and add if necessary

Oil Ea. 100 hrs. Change ( 1st time after 50 hrs.)

Fuel Filter/Water Separator Daily or ea 8 hrs. Check for contamination and clean

Fuel Filter Ea 100 hrs.

Engine Hoses Weekly

Exhaust System Weekly

RAW WATER
COOLINGSYSTEM

Coolant Reservoir Daily Check

Heat Exchanger Every 2400 hrs

Raw Water Strainer Daily Check

Cooling System Every 500 hrs.

FRESH WATER SYSTEM

Water Tank Annually

Water Pump Strainer Monthly or Less

Hoses & Valves Daily

Seagull Purifier Cartridge Annually

GRAY WATER SYSTEM

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE

Check Drain and replace filter ea 100 hrs.

Check that they are hard & tightly secured

Inspect for leaks. Check ant-siphon.

Add coolant if necessary

Check & clean

Clean screen & bowl if necessary

Check & Flush

Flush clean & disinfect.

Remove & clean

Observe leaks or note recycling of pressure system

Replace cartridge more frequently if reduced flow )

CHAPTER 12

Sump Annually

Automatic Bilge Pump Daily Check

Manual Bilge Pump Monthly

Bilge Area Daily Check

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

Batteries Monthly

House & Engine Batteries Daily Check

Connections Annually

Transom, Trim Tab & Drive

Zincs

MISCELLANEOUS

Trim Tabs Daily Check Operation

Trim Tabs & Bow Thruster Monthly Inspect & remove barnacles for proper operation

Hydraulic Steering Fluid Monthly if present Check fluid level (reservoirs) add or purge air.

Bow Thruster Annually

Bottom Paint Monthly or Less

Stern Drive Lubricant Daily

12.2 FLUIDS

Refer to the Engine and Drive Manuals for proper lubricants.

ROUTINE MAINTENANCE

Monthly

Under Companionway – Open & Clean

Test with manual switch

Check operation

Inspect and clean as needed

Remove Lids, check for loose cables, clean

Voltage

Inspect all connections

Inspect and replace if 50% gone

See manufacturers recommendations

Remove growth with diver to sustain performance

Check Reservoirs on aft bulkhead

CHAPTER 13

13.1 START OF SEASON

[commissioning]

13.2 END OF SEASON

Most facilities will not require additional information before hauling the boat with a Travelift or
crane, but if this is the case, use the included Lifting Diagram Figure 14.10.

The end of the season is a good time to have the bottom power-washed and to check all thruhulls
and seacocks for growth. Careful inspection of all underwater hardware at this point may avoid a

potential problem in the future. This is also a good time to check the zincs of the boat and replace
as necessary.

If the boat is to be stored in a place where the ambient temperature may fall below the freezing
point, it must be winterized. Plumbing lines need to be emptied and anti-freeze added where

applicable. Consult also the engine operator’s manual.

SEASONAL MAINTENANCE

47

5
8

TRAILER LOADING CHECKLIST

1) Check that bilges are clean and dry

2) Check that all cabinet door & drawer latches are pushed shut to the lock position.

3) Leave the bilge pump switch in ON position

4) Do not apply adhesive tape to any part of the boat, especially the Ultra leather cushions.

5) Lock all hatches and portlights

6) If radar is mounted directly to the hardtop, it’s generally not necessary to remove it.

7) Secure side curtains in place (now possible for transport with new zipper track system)

8) Secure VHF antenna with wire ties to rail in “down” position.

9) Remove all-round light on hardtop and install protective cap.

10) Fuel tanks must have minimum of 20 gallons each

11) Are all systems winterized if trip is to freezing weather?

12) Check to see that all Battery Switches and Inverter Switch are OFF

13) Secure and pad all loose gear against movement in transit

14) WARNING Do not under any circumstances load boat stern first on trailer – You’ll be cleaning for weeks.

15) Shrink wrap is not desirable and can cause more trouble to the hull paint job than it protects.

16) Be sure that the boat is properly blocked and rides level so the cockpit will drain underway.

17) Be sure that the topmost part of the boat is less than 13’6” over the road. Driver should check.

18) Have driver sign off on Bill of Lading with a notation that there is no damage (or indicate existing damage)

so as to eliminate arguments upon arrival as to what damage the driver did or did not cause. Retain a copy.

19) Provide driver with detailed contact information of receiving yard and schedule for unloading.

20) Padlock installed with combo given to driver and to receiving yard.

21) Attach a copy of this check list to the BOL, marked, and signed off on.

22) Secure Anchor with rope to bow cleat if no retainer included.

23) Instead of leaving the Bimini hoop aft as shown above, remove the canvas, pull the pins on the aft supports and

hinge the hoops forward against the hardtop, padding the hoops with foam and lashing them forward to the cornerpost

handrails and padding/lashing the stainless supports together.

Note: In addition to aft and midship supports in the locations seen on page 55 (for Boatlifts), the boat
should be supported under the bow as well to counteract the downward pressure of bow tie-downs

60

CHAPTER 15 BOSTON BOATWORKS LIMITED WARRANTY

Manufacturer’s Sole and Limited Warranty for Pleasurecraft

A. General. This document sets forth the sole and limited warranty, which Boston BoatWorks (“The

Manufacturer”) is giving you in connection with the “Vessel” which you are acquiring. It is the only
warranty being given by the Manufacturer and should be reviewed carefully together with manuals and

other instructional material provided by the Manufacturer before you take delivery of the Vessel.

B. Basic Warranty. The Manufacturer warrants that the Vessel (except for Excluded items described below

and when Properly Used, will be free of defects in material and workmanship for a period of twelve (12)
months from delivery of the Vessel to you by an Authorized Dealer. If you sell the Vessel during this

period, your buyer may receive the benefit of the balance of the warranty by agreeing to be bound by its
terms.

C. Extended Warranty for Structure. In addition to the foregoing warranty, the Manufacturer warrants that

the stringer systems, structural bulkheads and composite laminates of the Vessel (except for Excluded
items) and when the Vessel is Properly Used, will be free of defects in material and workmanship for a

period of five (5) years from delivery date by an Authorized Dealer. This warranty may be transferred to
your buyer in the same manner as the Basic Warranty.

D. Extended Warranty Against Osmotic Blistering. In addition to the foregoing warranties, the

Manufacturer warrants that any gelcoat surfaces of the Vessel below the waterline will not blister when the
Vessel is Properly Used for a period of ten (10) years from delivery date by an Authorized Dealer. This

warranty may be transferred to your buyer on the same manner as the Basic Warranty.

E. Dealers. The name and address of Authorized Dealers is available from the Manufacturer. The

Manufacturer does not authorize the Dealer, or any other person, to assume for the Manufacturer any

liability in connection herewith or any liability or expense incurred in the repairing of its products other

than those expressly authorized by the Manufacturer in writing.

F. Excluded Items. The Manufacturer gives no warranty as to:

a. Paints, varnishes, gelcoats (except where included in paragraph D above)a, exterior wood, vinyls,

fabrics, glass, chrome plating or anodized or other finishes or surface coatings because of the
varying quality of these items manufactured by others and the effect resulting from different

climactic and use conditions

b. Engines, mechanical equipment, pumps, batteries, heating, plumbing, refrigeration, electronic

components, masts, or other components manufactured by other than the Manufacturer, or the cost
of removal or re-installment of the part and disassembly, or reassembly of the unit of which it is a

component.

c. All items not installed by the Manufacturer or altered after their installation, and items installed or

altered by Authorized Dealers.

d. Other than upon first being delivered, leaks in or around hatches, companionways, deck hardware

or other leaks which are above the waterline.

e. Damage to the Vessel (including, but not limited to, wet core) caused by leakage around decks,

hardware or other accessories attached to, or incorporated into, the Vessel.

f. Speed, fuel consumption or other performance characteristics, because they are estimated and not

guaranteed.

G. Proper Use. The warranties contained herein are expressly conditioned upon your Proper Use of the

Vessel. This means that you must use the Vessel solely as a pleasure craft (no commercial use) and operate
it as directed in and after reviewing the Manuals provided by the original equipment manufacturer and the
Manufacturer, and perform maintenance to the Vessel as recommended in the Manuals and as required by

periodic inspections by an Authorized Dealer or Service Center.

61

H. Warranty Claims. To make a claim under this warranty you must do the following

a. Report the defect to the Manufacturer or Authorized Dealer within thirty (30) days of discovering

it, and when possible prior to incurring any expense, identifying the Vessel and submitting
photographs (email digital preferred).

b. Make the Vessel available for inspection by the Manufacturer or Authorized Dealer when

requested.

c. Make the vessel available for repairs, if required, by the Manufacturer or Authorized Dealer.
d. Major components, such as engines, generators, air-conditioners, electronics, appliances for

example are warranted by the manufacturer of the component. They have authorized service
dealers in most major boating markets. The Manufacturer or Dealer will identify such service

dealers upon request.

I. Repair or Replacement. The manufacturer shall perform its obligations under this warranty by, at it

option, repairing or replacing (at Manufacturer’s expense) the defective part or component. Parts or
components replaced will become the property of the Manufacturer. The replacement of parts o

components will not extend the warranty but the replacement parts and components will be covered for the
balance of the warranty period. You shall be responsible for returning the Vessel to Manufacturer at its

plant or at a designated marina in the State of Massachusetts or to such other repair facility that the
Manufacturer shall designate, at your sole expense.

J. Specification Changes. The manufacturer reserves the right to make changes in design, equipment, layout

or construction without notice or being obligated to incorporate such changes in previous products.

K. Registration Cards. The Manufacturer recommends that you immediately fill out and return the Warranty

Registration Card for the Vessel. The information contained on this card will enable the Manufacturer to
more quickly process any warranty claims and to comply with the Federal Boating Safety Act. Should you

sell the Vessel, the Manufacturer recommends that your buyer also fill or a Warranty Registration Card.

L. Exclusion of Implied Warranties. The foregoing warranty is intended to be in lieu of all other warranties,

express or implied. In part, due to the hazardous, life-threatening environment, capable of overwhelming
vessels of any size, that the Vessel will operate in, THE MANUFACTURER OR ITS DEALER

DISCLAIMS ALL IMPLIED WARRRANTIES INCLUDING WARANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY
AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR USE. In some jurisdictions, the Manufacturer is prohibited from
excluding or limiting implied warranties. In those jurisdictions, the Manufacturer expressly limits any

implied warranties to the greatest extent and to the shortest duration allowed by law.

M. Limitation of Damages. THE MANUFACTUER OR ITS DEALER DISCLAIMS ANY LIABILITY TO

YOU FOR INCIDENTAL, CONSEQUENTIAL OR INDIRECT DAMAGES TO YOU, including loss of
use, loss of revenue, travel expenses, transportation charges, food or lodging charges or loss of personal

property. In some jurisdictions, the Manufacturer is prohibited from excluding or limiting implied
warranties. In those jurisdictions, the Manufacturer expressly limits any implied warranties to the greatest

extent and to the shortest duration allowed by law.

N. Whole Agreement. This warranty is the sole warranty given to you by the Manufacturer. Authorized

Dealers are not authorized to make changes to this warranty. Any questions about the warranty should be
directed to the Manufacturer. If you do bring a claim against the Manufacturer that is related to the Vessel,

you must bring it in the Courts for the State of Massachusetts.

62

BOSTON BOATWORKS

Pre-Approval for Warranty

Please Fax Claim to: [phone] Date_______________________

Boat Model_______________Boat Name_________________________Hull #______________

Dealer__________________________Contact Person__________________________________

Phones___________________Fax___________________ Email_________________________

Description of Problem: _________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________________

Description of Resolution: _______________________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________________

____________________________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________________

Estimated Completion Date: ________________

Labor Rate $ _____________________ Total Materials Cost $ _______________________

Total Labor Hours _________________ Total Estimated Cost $ _______________________

AMOUNT APPROVED: $_____________________ APPROVED BY:_________________

63

Warranty Claim Application Form

Boston BoatWorks, LLC

256 Marginal Street, East Boston MA 02128

Phone: [phone] Fax: [phone]

Date:______________ Boats Name:______________________ 36z Hull # ________________

Dealer/Service_______________________

Address: ____________________________

___________________________________

Phone:_____________________________

Fax:_______________________________

Contact Person:______________________

Description of Defect (please include photos)

Description of Corrective Action (include invoices)

Labor Rate:

Labor Cost:

Material Cost:

Total amount of claim

All claims require prior approval by BBW Customer Service using the Pre-Approval Form

Date Approved:___________ Amount Approved:____________ Approved by:___________

Boat Owner:_________________________

Address:____________________________

___________________________________

Phone # ____________________________

Boat Location:_______________________

Delivery Date:_______________________

Labor Hrs:

$

6
4

CHAPTER 16 QUICK START GUIDE

1 - Disconnect Shore-side Connections

To disconnect shore power cords, turn off all AC loads on the boat and make
sure the main AC breakers on the AC panel (the double breakers) are all OFF.
Then disconnect the cord at the dock end first. Disconnect the cord at the boat
and close the shore power inlet cover. Ditto for any phone/cable lines.

2 - Set Battery Switches

The battery selector switches are in the upper right of the AC (lower) electrical
panel. Slide down the covers and depress rocker switches. The central
Combiner parallel switch should be centered in the “automatic” mode. Slide the
covers down and Push Start STBD engine switch and Start PORT engine switch,
both ON. Be sure that the main breaker on the HOUSE battery switch in the DC
panel is also ON. Unless running the generator underway, the GENERATOR
switch should be OFF with the cover slid upwards.

Turn ON the ENGINE HATCH switch on the DC panel.

Remember to turn all switches OFF when leaving the boat, except the HOUSE
battery switch, when needed to keep the Refrigeration going.

3 - Visually Inspect the Engine Room

To access the engine room, lift up and twist the two lock downs 180 degrees.
Then open the starboard cockpit seat locker and lift the black toggle switch
outboard up. If it seems stuck: STOP and check the lock-downs. While doing
other checks, it is a good idea to take a look around the engine for loose belts,
wires, oil drips or water in the bilge or anything else that may be out of order.

4 - Check Engine

It is advisable to check the engine fluid levels before starting the engine. Refer to
the Owner’s Manual for checking the oil coolant and transmission levels.

5 - Raw Water

Raw water intake and outflow is integral to the OceanX sterndrives, so there’s no
seacock to open or close. Nevertheless, once the engine is started, it’s wise to
look over the swim platform to see a surge of water.

6 - Check DC Panel

Check the DC panel to insure that the house bank has a reasonable charge
(12.2V or greater). If there is any problem, now is the time to learn of it.

6
5

7 - Turn ON Operating Equipment and Instruments

Turn on ELECTRONICS (VHR, Radar, GPS, Plotter, Autopilot, Depth), TRIM
TABS, WIPERS, FRESH WATER PUMP (to operate windshield washer) and
HORN.

8 - Check Lights

If the boat is to be operated after sunset or in reduced visibility or fog, TURN on
NAVIGATION LTS, SEARCHLIGHT, FLIR and check that they are working.

9 - Start Engine

See Sections 3 & 4 of this Owner’s Manual for specific

instructions on operating the engine and joystick control.

10 - Check Joystick, Steering and Trim Tab Function

With the engine controls in Neutral, push the left button under the Yanmar-Penta
joystick and listen for a confirming beep. Briefly test its operation with a slight tap
in any direction.

Make sure that no one is on the foredeck or handling a dock-line
when this test is performed. Also check that the trim tabs are working properly,
and that the steering turns smoothly.

11 - Final Checks

Before departing, make sure the engine and house batteries are being charged.
(Note: by design, there is a delay between starting the engine and alternator
charging.) Make sure your navigation plans have been prepared and that all
equipment is functioning (even that which you don’t necessarily intend to use).
Check your fuel and water levels. Be sure the anchor is secured with a safety
tether if running at speed in waves.

12 - Casting Off

When you are confident that everything is in order, cast off all dock lines and
when maneuvering with the joystick remember that a light steady touch on the
joy stick is usually sufficient to move the boat in the direction desired. To apply
more torque, push the righthand button after pushing the left hand button under
the Joystick.

CAUTION when moving sideways, twist the knob only about halfway to the
stops so that the twisting action doesn’t override the sideways configuration,
causing the drives to return to center.