MTB2 Kit:
Honda B Series Conversions
for the Classic Mini
MTB2 Installation Manual
For Classic Minis 1959 – 2001
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Dear Customer,
We welcome you to the Honda Powered Mini World. Thank you and
Congratulations for your purchase. You can be certain that you have made a wise
choice with this upgrade. This kit was designed to help put you on the right track
when building your ultimate Mini. With the help of this MTB2 Kit, you will be
driving your Super Fast Mini soon.
Mini has been made in many variations with many subtle “tweaks” and varying
build quality over its lifetime. It is impossible to account for all these, and some will
even be unique to your car. Additionally, your car is likely 15-20 years old, with all
that has happened to it in that time.
With all that said, your MTB2 kit and these instructions are designed to try to
allow for some of these differences. For others, you will have to “field fit” or adjust
as you go. We’ll do all we can to help keep your project moving along. Please keep
in mind that pictures will be of great help, so if you don’t have a digital camera, (or
always wanted one) now is a good time to get one. In fact, you should take LOTS of
pictures to document your project. Your project may seem overwhelming at times,
but if you take it one step at a time, in a logical sequence and take an occasional
break from it, you’ll do great.
The purpose of this kit is to make your Honda VTEC installation easy and
hassle free. We have taken the research and development headaches out of the install
so that you do not have to deal with all of that. The sub-frame mounts to the car. The
engine mounts to the sub-frame. And after a few other small connections, you are
ready to crank and drive your Super Fast Mini.
We have broken the whole VTEC Mini build up into sections, from start to
finish. We hope that this will be a pleasurable experience for you and we will do
everything that we can to make it that. Just remember, we are available to help you 5
days a week. Just give us a call or drop us an email.
Thanks and have fun,
Mini Tec, L.L.C.
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Parts
This Section contains a list and description of the parts included in the MTB2 Kit,
and a list of parts that you will need in addition to the MTB2 Kit.
Your MTB2 Kit Contains:
- MTB2 Subframe
- RH Adjustable Upper Suspension Arm
- LH Adjustable Upper Suspension Arm
- RH Lower Suspension Arm
- LH Lower Suspension Arm
- Shock Mounting Brackets
- Rear Transmission Stabilizer
- Alternator Relocation Bracket
- Mounting Hardware (Not Shown)
- 2 Mini/Honda Chromoly Axle Shafts
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Additional Parts Needed:
- Honda B Series Engine/Transmission (See List)
- Coil-Over Shocks
- Front Disc Brake System: Mini Tec’s Superbrake, Mini 8.4” Disc Brakes, Other…
- Wheels with a –7mm Offset to the outside (needed for turning radius clearance) or wheel spacers
- Honda Engine and ECU Wiring Harness’
- Modified Honda ECU – OBD1
- Electronic Speedometer (Mechanical Gauges may not work with the Honda Engine)
- Honda Civic Radiator or Mini Tec’s MTB2 Aluminum Radiator Kit
- Honda Shifter
Preparation
Step 1: Remove stock Mini engine and sub-frame. Then remove everything else in
the engine compartment.
Step 2: Remove inner fenders: Cut and remove both inner fenders as shown. You will
need this extra space for the width of the subframe.
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Step 3: Cut out metal just below stock shock mount. This is needed to fit the MTD
subframe (See following two photos).
Step 5: Cut out behind grille: You will need to remove any excess metal behind your
grille (See Photo below). This will give you maximum flow and cooling ability.
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Cutting and relocating the front lower valance is NO longer required.
Step 7: Cut body for alternator clearance. Cut out the section that is drawn in RED.
This will allow the alternator pulley to not interfere with the bulkhead. You can leave
1/8” along the vertical cut for support.
Your Mini should now be prepared for the installation process.
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Installation
Installing Engine into frame:
Step 1: Lower engine into frame. Attach engine to frame using stock engine mount
(use 12mm bolt) and stock transmission mount (use 12mm bolt). Note: Your engine
may need to be rotated once installed into car for clearance.
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Install Engine and Subframe into Mini:
Step 1: By lowering the car onto the frame, attach it to the car using the two large
frame mounting bolts just like the standard Mini frame attaches. If your car is an
earlier model and does not have these two large ¾” diameter bolts, then you will
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need our MK1/2 Subframe Mounting Kit. Standard Mini mounting bolts are circled
in red in the following photo. Do not tighten completely at this point. You will need
to attach the frame and the bottom first.
Step 2: Drill six holes to support the bottom of the frame using a 5/16” drill
bit. Use the six supplied 5/16” bolts with plates to fasten the frame to the car on the
lower side. The plates will go inside of the car to give the floor panel extra support.
After the six bolts are in place and tightened, tighten the two large frame mounting
bolts on top of the frame. See photos.
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Your subframe and engine should now be attached to your Mini.
Coil-Over Shock Installation:
Step 1: Replace Mini upper shock mounts with the provided upper strut
mounts.
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Step 2: Attach lower side of shock as shown in photos. Do the same for both sides.
Step 3: Attach top shock to upper strut mount. See Photo. Do the same for both
sides.
Axles: Assembly and Installation
Parts needed for Assembly: *Chromoly Axle Shafts, Complete Inner Honda CV
Joint Assemblies, and Complete Outer Mini CV Joint Assemblies. (See Photo
Below)
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Step 1: Assemble Small end of axle shaft with the Mini cv joint assembly as done on
a stock Mini but replace ball bearing gear with supplied gear.
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Honda Axle End Assembly: Assemble large splinned side of axle with the Honda
cv joint assembly. (See following four Photos) Note: The Honda race will need to be
driven onto the axle shaft using a hammer and socket to seat properly.
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Axle Installation: Simply slide one of the axles into the transmission and the
other into the engine mid-shaft until the axles lock into place.
Swivel Hubs and Brakes:
Install the Swivel Hubs and Brakes as done on stock Mini.
Master Cylinder:
Depending on your setup, you may have to relocate one of your master cylinders. If
you have both master cylinders on the right side of the car, then they are clear. If you
have both master cylinders on the left side, then the brake master cylinder will have
to be relocated. We recommend getting a left hand drive conversion pedal box. This
will allow you to mount the master cylinder on the right side of the car, clear of any
objects. Note: For best clearance, check out Mini Tec’s Aluminum Racing Pedal Kit.
Shifter Linkage:
Use Honda Shifter linkage for the conversion.
Step 1: Cut all four ends off of the shifter linkage.
Step 2: Hang shifter in stock Mini location. New holes will need to be drilled. (See
following Photo)
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Step 3: Hang shifter ends on the transmission. (See following Photo)
Step 4: Reattach lower shifter end (as shown in following photo). The shifter rod
reducers will be needed to rebuild the shifter linkage (shifter rod reducers are shown
being held in previous and following photos).
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Step 5: Rebuild the shifter linkage using ¾” metal pipe. Bend and weld pipes so that
all gears can be easily shifted to and from without hitting the body or anything else.
(See following photo)
Fuel System: Change your fuel pump to one that ranges from 32 to 48 PSI. A
return line will be needed on certain models that do not have them.
Cooling System:
The MTB2 Subframe is designed to use the Honda Civic radiator 1992 – 1998
model. There are two tabs located on the front of the sub-frame for mounting this
radiator.
Alternative: Mini Tec Radiator Kit – comes with everything you need to keep your
Honda Mini running at the correct operating temperature. Items included are:
Aluminum Radiator, Radiator fan, radiator hoses, and a catch can.
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Compatible Honda B Series Engines: Here is a list of available B Series
Honda engines that you can use with your MTB2 Kit.
B16A VTEC Found in:
o 1989-1993 JDM Honda Integra RSi/XSi (DA6/DA8)
o 1989-1991 JDM Honda CRX SiR (EF8)
o 1989-1991 JDM Honda Civic SiR/SiRII (EF9)
Displacement: 1595 cm³
Compression: 10.2:1
Rod/stroke ratio: 1.74
Power: 158 hp @ 7600 rpm & 112 ft·lbf @ 7000 rpm
Transmission: S1/J1/Y1/A1/YS1
o 1992-1995 JDM Honda Civic SiR/SiRII (EG6/EG9)
Displacement: 1595 cm³
Compression: 10.4:1
Power: 168 hp @ 7800 rpm & 116 ft·lbf @ 7300 rpm
Transmission: S4C
o 1992-1995 EDM Honda Civic VTi
Displacement: 1595 cm³
Compression: 10.4:1
Power: 158 hp @ 7600 rpm & 116 ft·lbf @ 7300 rpm
o 1992-1996 JDM Honda CR-X del Sol SiR
Displacement: 1595 cm³
Compression: 10.4:1
Power: 158 hp - 170 hp & 111 ft·lbf - 116 ft·lbf
B16A1 VTEC Found in:
o 1989-1991 EUDM Honda CRX 1.6i/VTi (EE8/ED)
o 1990-1991 EUDM Honda Civic 1.6iVT (EE9)
Displacement: 1595 cm³
Compression: 10.2:1
Power: 150 hp (112 kW) @ 7600 rpm & 111 ft·lbf (151 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
B16A2 VTEC Found in:
o 1992-2000 Honda Civic EDM VTi (EG & EK)
Displacement: 1595 cm³
Compression: 10.2:1
Power: 160 hp @ 7600 rpm & 113 ft·lbf (153 N·m) @ 7300 rpm
Transmission: Y21
o 1999-2000 Honda Civic Si (EM1)
Displacement: 1595 cm³
Compression: 10.2:1
Power: 160 hp (118 kW) @ 7600 rpm & 111 ft·lbf (151 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
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Transmission: Y21 S4C
o 1996-1997 Honda Del Sol VTEC (EG)
Displacement: 1595 cm³
Compression: 10.4:1
Power: 160 hp (119 kW) @ 7800 rpm & 111 ft·lbf (152 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
Transmission: Y21
B16A3 VTEC Found in:
o 1994-1995 Honda Del Sol VTEC (EG)
Displacement: 1595 cm³
Compression: 10.4:1
Power: 160 hp (119 kW) @ 7800 rpm & 111 ft·lbf (152 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
Transmission: Y21
Redline: 8200 rpm
B16A6 VTEC Found in:
o 1996-2000 Honda Civic - South Africa VTEC (EK)
Displacement: 1595 cm³
Compression: 10.2:1
Power: 160 hp (118 kW) @ 7800 rpm & 160 N·m @ 7400 rpm
Transmission: Y21
B16B VTEC Found in:
o 1997-2000 Civic Type-R[EK9]
Displacement: 1595 cm³
Compression: 10.8:1
Power: 185 hp (137 kW) @ 8200 rpm & 118 ft·lbf (160 N·m) @ 7500 rpm
Transmission: S4C With LSD
B17A1 VTEC Found in:
o 1992-1999 Integra GS-R (DB2)
Displacement: 1608 cm³
Compression: 9.6:1
Power: 160 hp @ 9500 rpm & 197 ft·lbf (159 N·m) @ 2200 rpm
Transmission: cable~ XS1
B18A1 Found in:
o 1990-1993 Integra RS/LS/GS (DA)
Displacement: 1834 cm³
Compression: 9.2:1
Bore: 81 mm
Stroke: 89 mm
Power:
1990-1991: 130 hp (97 kW) @ 6000 rpm & 121 ft·lbf (164 N·m) @ 5000 rpm
1992-1994: 140 hp (104 kW) @ 6300 rpm & 127 ft·lbf (173 N·m) @ 5200 rpm
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Transmission: YS1
B18B1 Found in:
o 1994-2001 Acura Integra "RS/LS/GS" (DC4/DB7)
Displacement: 1834 cc
Compression: 9.2:1
Bore: 81 mm
Stroke: 89 mm
Power:
142 hp @ 6300 rpm & 127 ft·lbf @ 5200 rpm
Transmission: S88
B18C VTEC Found in:
JDM Spec Honda Integra ITR
Power: 200ps (200 hp) @ 7800 rpm
134 ft·lbf @ 6200 rpm
Transmission Type: 5-speed standard
Displacement: 1797 cm³
Compression: 11.1:1 (JDM) - The USDM Integra Type-R 10.6:1
Transmission: Y80
B18C1 VTEC Found in:
o 1994-2001 Integra GS-R (DC2 & DB8)
o Displacement: 1797 cm³
o Compression: 10.0:1
o Power: 170hp @ 7600 rpm 128 ft·lbf @ 6200 rpm
o Transmission: S80
B18C3 VTEC Found in:
o 1995-1998 Acura Integra Type R
o Power: 195hp
B18C4 VTEC Found in:
o 1996-2000 UK Civic 1.8i VTi 5-door Hatch
o 1996-2000 UK Civic Aerodeck 1.8i VTi 5-door Wagon
o 1998-1999 EU Civic Aerodeck 1.8i VTi 5-door Wagon
o 1998-1999 EU Civic 1.8i VTi 5-door Hatch
o Displacement: 1797 cm³
o Compression: 10.0:1
o Power: 169 hp (124 kW) @ 8000 rpm & 129 ft·lbf (174 N·m) @ 7500 rpm
o Transmission: S9B
B18C5 VTEC Found in:
o 1997-2001 Integra Type-R
o Displacement: 1797 cm³
o Compression: 11.0:1
o Power: 192 hp @ 8000 rpm & 130 ft·lbf (176 N·m) @ 7500 rpm
o Transmission: S80
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B18C6 VTEC Found in:
o 1998-2001 Honda Integra UK and Euro Spec Type R
o Power: 190 ps (147 kW), 187 Nm
B18C7 VTEC Found in:
o 1996- Honda Integra Type R (Australia)
o Power: 200 hp (140 kW), 136 ft·lbf
Wiring:
Because the Mini is a stand alone system, only OBD1 computers can be used. Pinouts can be found on the web. Contact your local Honda tuner for more information.
Intake Modification:
You will need to shorten or modify your intake so that it does not interfere with the
bulkhead. We suggest cutting the intake and adding 90 degree silicone elbows as
shown below. Silicone hoses can be purchased through various racing parts dealers
such as www.VenAir.com.
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Alternator Mounting: You will need to relocate your alternator using the
bracket provided. After mounting the alternator, measure the distance around the
alternator and crankshaft pulley to determine belt length needed.
Suspension Setup:
These figures are for daily driving. You may want to set up the car differently if
planning on racing your Mini.
- Front Caster Setting = 2.5 to 3.5 Degrees (2.5 for a lighter steering wheel, 3.5
for a heavier steering wheel)
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- Front Camber Setting = -0.5 to -1 Degree (Less for street driving, more for
racing)
Check List: For your safety, please check…
- That every suspension component
is fastened tightly.
- That the steering system is
fastened properly and all nuts and
bolts are secure.
- For a firm brake pedal.
- That the engine is stationary.
- All fluid levels are full.
- Tires are inflated properly.
- All lug nuts are tightened
Test Drive:
For your first test drive, go slow and easy to make sure that there are no problems.
Listen to the car as you drive it for odd noises. Drive the car easily for a few miles
and then go over the Check List again. After driving the car for 100 miles, check
front suspension alignment again.
Periodically, you will need to check all of your suspension components for wear.
After that, have fun!
Disclaimer of Warranty
Neither the seller nor the manufacturer will be liable for any loss, damage or injury directly or indirectly arising
from the use or inability to determine the use of this product.
Before using, the use shall determine the suitability of the products for its intended use, and the user should
assume full responsibility and risk in connection herewith.
For off road use only!
Copyright 2006 Mini Tec, L.L.C. All rights reserved.
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