Millenium slow stick x, x-trainer Assembly Manual

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MillenniumRCpresents…BuildKit

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Wingspan:Approx.42”
WingArea:504sq.in.
WingLoading:6.71oz/sq.ft.

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Introduction:

The Slow Stick X and X-Trainer airplanes are available either as a “short kit” upgrade to the GWS Slow Stick
Electric ARF Park Flyer Airplane Kit ™ or as a complete kit which includes all of the fuselage components.
The “short” kit replaces the original Styrofoam wing and tail surfaces of the Slow Stick to a more robust balsa­constructed design, complete with ailerons and a full symmetrical wing, allowing the Slow Stick to become a
fully aerobatic model aircraft. This wing and tail are designed to easily attach to your existing stick fuselage.

This build kit can be built either as a Slow Stick X (with the straight wing) or as the X-Trainer (with a
dihedral wing). The Slow Stick X is also available as a pre-built and covered ARF.

Adult supervision recommended for children 15 and under. R/C Airplanes should be flown following safety
guidelines provided by the AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics).

CAUTION: This is not a toy!

Recommendations:

1. Read through each step before starting assembly.

2. After removing all the pieces from packaging, inspect to make sure there are no broken or missing parts.

3. Check off each completed step to help keep from losing your place.

4. Cover the work table with plastic wrap to protect from glue.

Slow Stick X™ or X-Trainer™ Wing/Tail Build Kit Assembly Instructions Rev. 12

List of Provided “Short Kit” Parts:

All laser-cut balsa and plywood parts needed to
complete the wing/tail sections.

Disclaimer:

Millennium R/C assumes no

responsibility for any accident or injury

to persons or damage to property.

Additional Items Required:

1. GWS Slow Stick Electric ARF Park Flyer Airplane
Kit ™ (used or new)

2. All tools, equipment and materials recommended in
GWS Slow Stick Assembly Instruction Manual

3. One or two mini servos for ailerons and hardware for
aileron linkage

4. .047 Piano wire for aileron pushrods

5. 5/32” aluminum tubing for rubber band post
extenders

6. Cyanoacrylate or CA Glue (thin and thick)

7. Hobby knife

8. 80-grit and 100-grit sandpaper

9. Sanding block

10. Hinge tape (recommend 3M Scotch ™ ¾”
Transparent Tape)

11. Tape measure and/or yardstick

12. Square

13. Razor saw

14. A park-flyer type lightweight plastic coveri n g (Ex:
Ultracote Lite ™) and any tools recommended in its
instructions for application

15. Recommended Motor and speed control (400 style
outrunner, 125-200 watts with 20 amp speed control,
or equivalent)

16. Battery and Propeller (use what is recommended in
instructions for motor)

17. #33 Rubber Bands

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

The Slow Stick X and the X-Trainer are also
available as a Build Kit Bundle (complete kit)
which includes the following additional items
at an additional charge:

1. Slow Stick X Decal or X-Trainer Decal

2. Fuselage Set which includes 10mm square carbon
fiber fuselage, pushrod wire, Velcro strap to mount
battery, foam tape for mounting receiver, servo
mount, battery mount, wing mounts, adjustable
pushrod guide, steerable tail gear and necessary
screws/hardware for these parts

3. Millennium R/C outrunner motor mount

4. X-Gear carbon fiber landing gear

5. 2 2 ½” foam wheels

6. 2 #2 washers

7. 2 #2-1/4 sheet metal screws (optional for motor
mount)

8. 2 #2-3/8” sheet metal screws

9. 4 control horns

10. #33 Rubber bands

IMPORTANT:

DO NOT GLUE UNTIL INSTRUCTED TO DO SO!

These instructions have been adapted to include steps
to build either the Slow Stick X (straight wing) or the
X-Trainer (dihedral wing). Steps which pertain only
to the X-Trainer will be labeled as such.

The top of this wing is identified by the installation of
the main spar. The main spar is always installed
from the TOP. (Fig. 3)

1. Remove all W parts as well as plywood parts P1, P7

and P9 from sheets. Sand away excess material
from break-away. If desired may also sand away
any laser burn.

2. Trim Part W8 for dihedral or “no dihedral” as

marked on part. Assemble spar crutch (Part W8),
Ribs (W1 and W6). (Fig. 1 and 2) NOTE: Because
of different wood weights, it is recommended that
you divide the two rib sheets (W6) between the two
wing halves. This will help to balance the wing.

Figure 3 (SSX)

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3 (X-Trainer)

3. Trim part P1 for dihedral or “no dihedral” as marked

on part. Join together the two wing halves with
main spar (P1). (Fig. 3) The main spar should be
installed on the trailing side of the spar crutch.

4. Join together parts P7 and P9, as in Fig. 4, and

install between center ribs B1. (Fig. 5). For the X­Trainer, use P5 parts to gauge the bend of P9. Use
P7-T for the X-Trainer option.

Figure 4 (SSX)

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Figure 6 (SSX)

Figure 4 (X-Trainer)

5. Install leading edge W2 (Fig. 5)

Figure 5 (SSX)

Figure 6 (X-Trainer)

Figure 5 (X-Trainer)

6. Inspect balsa wood spars for knots and install spars

with knots to the outside edge of the wing. Install
3/16” x 3/16” balsa wood spars so that the two
pieces meet in the center of the wing (top and
bottom). Again, it’s important not to glue until
told to do so! (Fig. 6)

Figure 7

7. Bevel both sides of the trailing edge crutch before

installing. Do not cut tabs until after the trailing edge
is beveled. This will keep the part from breaking
during beveling process (Fig. 7). Use the provided
jig to gauge bevel.

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From this point on, parts are glued, as installed.

11. Install 9/16” strips on leading edge top and bottom

(Fig. 10). Sand square the leading edge so that you
have a flat surface flush with Part W2 (Fig. 10)
From 1/8” balsa marked “Leading Edge”, make two
19” long strips, and glue them to the leading edge.
(Fig. 11)

Figure 8

8. Slide the trailing edge crutch pieces onto the ribs

(Fig. 8). Note picture does not show tabs on trailing
edge.

9. Using thin CA glue, tack glue trailing edge to ribs

using provided jig piece to align the trailing edge
with the ribs. (Fig. 9) Install end ribs (Parts W7).
(See Fig. 13)

Figure 9

10. Using a square, check the square of ribs to the main

spar crutch (Part W8) and begin tack-gluing the ribs
to part W8 with thin CA glue. Make sure that 3/16”
x 3/16” spars are tightly placed before doing so. It is
a good idea to have the wing with the bottom 3/16”
x 3/16” spar flat on the table and glue while pushing
down on the top 3/16” x 3/16” spar. Once you tack­glue the ribs to part W8 and have verified that the
wing is straight, lift the wing off the surface and
continue gluing the remaining glue joints with thin
CA glue. Be sure to join with a bead of thick CA
glue, main spar (Part P1) to 3/16” x 3/16” spars.

Figure 10

Figure 11

12. Remove part P2 from the plywood sheet, sand off

break-aways, and install on top of center ribs. (Fig.

12)

Figure 12 (SSX)

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Figure 12 (X-Trainer)

13. Install ¾” x 1/16” strips on trailing edge top and

bottom (Fig. 13).

14. Install planking using leftover material from

provided 1/16” balsa. (Fig. 12)

Figure 15

16. Remove parts W5- W5-A and assemble as shown in

(Figure 16a) and sand break-aways until smooth.
Install wing tips W5, along with braces W9 and
W10. (Fig. 16b)

Figure 16a

Figure 13

15. Cut excess leading and trailing edges and spar

material flush with end ribs. Carve and sand leading
edge to rounded shape. (Fig 14)

Figure 14

Figure 16b

17. Remove parts P5 from plywood sheet, and sand

break-aways smooth. Flip wing over and carve
away excess material from bottom of the leading
edge between center ribs. Install Part P5 front wing
saddle.. (Fig. 17)

18. Remove Parts P3, P4, P6 and P8 and assemble rear

wing saddle. (Fig. 18) Create a ½” notch in the
bottom spars for the Slow Stick fuselage to fit.
(Also Fig. 18) Main wing assembly is now
complete! You may now sand as desired and cover
with light covering of choice. When covering, be
sure to leave the bottom area between center ribs
open. Use P4-T and P3-T for X-Trainer option.

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19. Join tail surface pieces as shown in Fig. 19.

Figure 17 (SSX)

Figure 17 (X-Trainer)

Figure 19

20. Sand all tail surfaces, round all edges, and taper

leading edges of all control surfaces, including
ailerons. (Fig. 20) Cover with light model covering.

Assembly of the control hinges

Hinges are made from hinge tape or 3M Clear
Cellophane Tape. The hinge cross-section is shown in
Fig. 20. Hinges are done after covering.

Figure 18 (SSX)

Figure 18 (X-Trainer)

Figure 20

Final Build Kit Assembly

1. Tape a length of Scotch tape™ along the rear trailing

edge of the horizontal stabilizer and secure with your
finger (either side is fine). Now, flip the stabilizer and
place on a work surface. See diagram below:

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2. Now, take the elevator. You will see that the elevator has

a ‘beveled’ edge. This is important in creating the hinge.
Ensure that the beveled edge is pointing up, and while
holding at a 45° angle, place up the trailing edge of the
horizontal stabilizer and secure the hinge tape to the
elevator with your finger. See diagrams below:

6. Repeat the steps 1. thru 5 for the rudder.

7. The aileron servo and linkage is mounted as shown in

Fig. 21.

Figure 21

3. Turn the stabilizer assembly over, and carefully fold the

elevator back onto the stabilizer.

4. Tape another length of Scotch tape™ along the bottom

hinge line and secure with your finger.

5. Fold the elevator back to normal position. Test the hinge

by pulling gently on the control surface. Cut off any
excess tape overhanging the stabilizer sides.

Figure 22 (SSX)

Figure 22 (X-Trainer)

Tail surfaces are installed using a keyed mount. Use
scrap balsa to make a “fill-it” on the top side of the
keyed mount to support each side of the vertical
stabilizer. (Fig. 23). The vertical and horizontal
stabilizers are mounted as illustrated in (Fig. 24).

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Figure 23

8. Flip the wing over so top is up. Cut out hole for servo in

center of wing. Using a sharp hobby knife or razor, cut
through the covering and score the break-a-way on both
sides until the square comes out easily.

9. Install the servo, adjusting the size of the opening as

needed, with a hobby knife. Drill tiny holes through
servo mounts and mount the servo using servo­manufacturer provided screws.

10. Using a hobby knife or rotary tool, clean covering out of

control horn slots on ailerons. Glue the control horns
into the slots using thick CA glue.

11. Insert the Z-bend end of the aileron push rod into the

control horn. With the servo control arm disconnected
from the servo, slide the two aileron control rods into the
two EZ links or servo control linkage of your choice.
(NOTE: EZ links are NOT provided in the build kit.)
Line up the ailerons so that they are in neutral position,
then tighten the screws on the EZ links. Cut excess
wire. Wing is complete!

Assembly of the Tail Section

1. Cut away covering from slots on the vertical and

horizontal stabilizer for mounting the tail section
mount. Line the tail section mount with the bottom
edge of the vertical stabilizer and trace the edge with
a marker. It is important to note that the sloped

side of the tail section mount should point
forward, towards the front of the airplane. Cut

the plastic covering just inside this area so that the
balsa wood there will glue on better. Be careful not
to cut into the balsa. Test-fit the two pieces. They
should fit snugly.

Figure 24

2. Attach the tail mount to the horizontal stabilizer

using thin CA glue, being careful to check it is
square.

3. Choose which side of the rudder and elevator you

want to put the control horn on (either works fine).
Insert control horn into pre-cut slots in opposite
sides of rudder and elevator, using thin CA glue to
secure. NOTE: GWS control horns also work in
these slots

.

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Fuselage Assembly (not included in “short
kit”)

1. Use the existing GWS parts from your GWS Slow

Stick™ or use the parts from our X-Fuse set.

2. Use CA glue to attach fuselage joiner to one end of

the shorter fuselage stick (tail end).

3. Slide one end of the longer fuselage stick into the

joiner and attach with provided screw. Cut excess
off end of screw and file down sharp edges. See
image below:

7. Feed the long wire push rod through the push rod

guide and through the guide holes in the rear wing
saddle, so that the “Z-bend” is at the tail section.
Repeat on both sides.

8. Install the servos, as per servo manufacturer

instructions, using servo manufacturer-provided
hardware. DO NOT SCREW any of the parts in yet.
See picture below:

4. Slide the push rod guide onto the tail end of the

fuselage. Then slide the rear wing saddle mount
onto the front end of the fuselage, approximately 15
½” down the stick. DO NOT SCREW IN YET.

5. Slide the two servo mounts down about an inch from

the rear wing saddle mount. Now slide the front
wing saddle mount, approximately 5 ½” down from
the front.

6. Slide the battery mount, onto the fuselage,

approximately 1” – ½” from the front. DO NOT
glue or screw in any of these plastic parts yet, as
they are in temporary positions. See following
diagram:

Final Assembly

1. Attach the “Z-bend” end of the long control rods

into the middle hole of each one of the tail section
control horns. Feed the control rods through the rod
guides on the fuselage and then slide the tail section
on to the fuselage. See diagram below:

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2. Drill two small holes on the bottom center of the

horizontal stabilizer. Use the #2 3/8 screws to fasten
the fuselage to the tail assembly. Holes should be
about ½” from leading edge of the horizontal
stabilizer and 1 ¼” from the trailing edge of the
horizontal stabilizer. Do not damage the wood when
tightening. Use provided #2 washers (not shown in
picture) Please refer to next picture.

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Balancing & final fuselage assembly

Balancing the aircraft: The center of gravity for this
wing is the main spar. Do NOT add weight to balance
the aircraft. It is important that the plastic wing mounts
be movable at this point. Install all hardware, including
your battery and move the wing forward or aft until the
aircraft is balanced.

In order to balance this model, a ‘dry’ assembly of the
fuselage is performed. The model is then balanced and
finally secured with CA glue. Follow the steps below to
balance the model and finish assembly.

1. Temporarily mount motor, radio gear, battery and

other hardware as per manufacturer instructions to
prepare the plane to be balanced. If using X-Gear,
tape them into place temporarily. Do not mount
landing gear until told to do so. (Front wing saddle
needs to be movable during balancing procedure)
Attach speed control to top of front battery mounts,
using rubber bands.

2. Start out with the front wing saddle approximately 5

inches from the front of the fuselage stick. Attach
wing to wing saddle with rubber bands. AFTER

THE WING HAS BEEN SECURED WITH
BANDS, CHECK THE ALIGNMENT OF THE
HORIZONTAL STABILIZER TO THE MAIN
WING. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT
FINAL FLYING RESULT OF THIS
AIRPLANE.

3. Attach battery and speed control with provided

Velcro strap to the front most end of the fuselage.

4. Adjust components as you attempt to balance plane

without moving wing back first. Wing should be
within 5 to 6” from the front of the stick. Hold plane
at wing’s spar to balance. Balance point can be
pushed back as desired.

IN THE

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5. Once balanced, without moving any of the black

parts, VERY CAREFULLY remove the wing.

6. Drill a small hole with a #56 drill into the rear wing

saddle. Use one of the screws from the fuselage kit
to permanently mount to the fuselage stick.

7. NOTE: If using X-Gear, may attach after plane is

balanced, following instructions in kit. Then
double-check balance.

8. Attach rudder and elevator linkage to the servos.

9. If using your existing GWS fuselage this step would

be necessary. Installing Rubber Band Post
Extenders: One minor design flaw in the original

Slow Stick is that the rubber band posts are too
short. Using 5/32 aluminum tubing, cut 4 3/8” long
pieces. (Some kits may come with these already cut).
Use thick CA glue and glue them to the existing
rubber band posts of the original Slow Stick wing
saddles. Make sure you do not leave sharp edges that
can cut the rubber bands. I like to fill the tube with
thick CA and leave a bead at the top of the tube. If
you do not have a tubing cutter, you can use an X­acto knife in a rolling action to cut the tubing. Our
new X-Fuse eliminates the need for rubber band post
extenders.

10. Re-attach wing to airplane and set control throws to

maximum. NOTE: Aileron differential is built into
this design.

a. Ailerons 25°
b. Elevator 25°
c. Rudder at maximum

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Main Wing Decal (not included in “short kit”)

1. Cut excess material from decal before removing the

backing.

2. Remove the protective backing to expose the

adhesive.

3. Add about 3 drops of dish soap to 2 pints of clean

water. Put it in a spray bottle and spray the back of
the decal.

4. Slide the decal into position and squeegee the excess

water from under the decal.

5. Allow the decal to dry overnight.

First flight: Be sure all controls are set correctly. Take­off should be at half throttle with recommended power
plant. Climb to a higher altitude and adjust trims as
needed. When landing, be sure to land softly, as the
original GWS landing gear is not extremely rigid. You
should find that this aircraft has a very low stall rate and
is capable of most acrobatics. Happy flying!

Enjoy Your New Millennium R/C

Slow Stick X or X-Trainer!

If you should find a part missing or damaged, or have

any questions about assembly, please contact us at the

address below:

Millennium R/C

12859 Lower River Blvd. Orlando, FL 32828

Phone: [phone]

Fax: [phone]

E-mail: [e-mail]

For updates and tips, visit the

Slow Stick X or X-Trainer Build Thread on RC Groups:

www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=646592

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