microwave and the amount of fluids
contained in the specimens to be dried.
Lower powered ovens (500 watts) will
require longer times than higher powered
models (1000 watts). Fleshy or moist flowers
will take longer than dry flowers and leaves.
Specimens should be dried in stages, starting
with an initial burst, and followed by as many
shorter bursts as needed to completely dry the
specimen. As a guideline, initial bursts
should be about 45 seconds for a 600W oven,
30 seconds for 750W and 20 seconds for a
900W. Secondary bursts should be about half
to one third of the initial burst.
Specimens may partially dry after they are
picked, or if they are picked after lengthy
periods of exposure to strong winds, sun, or
low humidity. Under these circumstances, or
when pressing any specimen for the first
time, it is advisable to reduce the suggested
initial burst time by half.
If you are using a container of water in your
oven (see section on “Using the Microwave
Oven”) you will need to extend your
exposure times considerably, probably about
double the times you would use without
water.
There are a number of advantages in using
short bursts of drying instead of a single
continuous period:
o The method gives better control over the
final product
o Where specimens have thick and thin
portions (e.g. calyx and petals) the thicker
parts can be dried progressively without
destroying the thinner portions
o Some rearrangement of petals and other
parts is possible while the specimen still
retain some moisture.
The aim is to obtain a reasonably stiff
specimen which resists drooping and has a
dry or ‘papery’ feeling when touched. After
the specimen is cool, touching between the
thumb and forefinger, or to the lip, is a god
way to determine whether moisture is still
present.
Excessive drying will result in brittleness,
particularly for thin specimens and parts such
and leaves and petals, and eventually these
parts will scorch if the exposure time is too
long. Freshly picked specimens will take
longer to dry than specimens which have
been cut and allowed to stand. Fresh
specimens are less prone to burning except
where they have been exposed to lengthy
periods of strong winds and sun.
With practice it is possible to press quite
large and succulent flowers with Microfleur,
including such things as whole roses,
chrysanthemums, and camellias. Because of
the amount of moisture in these, it can take
several minutes to them successfully, but this
should be done in stages. “Resting” the
specimen by opening Microfleur, and
allowing it to stand for 20 – 30 seconds
between bursts, assists the process by
allowing excess vapours to be ventilated
naturally. Exposure times should be
shortened to 10, or even 5 seconds, as the
specimen approaches the final stages of
drying.
Useful hints:
Not all flowers and parts of plants can be
successfully pressed using Microfleur. In
general, anything which can be pressed by
conventional methods can be pressed in the
Microfleur. The advantages of using
Microfleur are that results are almost
immediate, and colour retention is usually
very good.
With practice you will learn the best
specimens to use with your Microfleur.
Large or fleshy specimens like lilies, tulips,
magnolias, begonias, and some impatiens are
difficult, or impossible to press. Squeezing
the petals between the fingers is a good test.
If squeezing produces liquid, then the result
is not likely to be very good, however this is
not always the case, as flowers like jonquils,
daffodils and some orchids can be pressed
quite successfully with Microfleur.