Merrylock 2020 Instruction Book

INSTRUCTION BOOK

INSTRUCTION BOOK

INSTRUCTION BOOK

Thank you for your purchase of this Overlock Sewing Machine. This machine, that is intended
for household use will provide you with excellent performance in sewing from light to heavy
material (lawn to denim).

Please refer to this Instruction Book for proper use and optimum service. To get the most out
of your sewing machine, read the entire Instruction Book before attempting to operate the
machine. Then familiarize yourself with the machine by following the Instruction Book page
by page.

To ensure that you are always provided with the most modern sewing capabilities, the
manufacturer reserves the right to change the appearance, design or accessories of this
sewing machine when considered necessary without notification or obligation.

1

PREFACE

When using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be followed including the following.
Read all instructions before using the machine.

* The machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug the machine from the

electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

* Always unplug before re-lamping. Replace bulb with the same type rated 15 watts. Be sure to replace the

face plate which covers the light bulb before operating the machine.

* Be sure that the electrical voltage of the electric outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as the rated voltage of

the motor.

* Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this Instruction Book. Use only attachments

recommended by the manufacturer as contained in the Instruction Book.

* To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ("0") position, then remove plug from outlet.

* Disconnect the power line plug from the socket outlet or switch the machine off when making any adjustments

in the needle area, such as threading needle and loopers, changing needle, changing throat plate or changing
presser foot, etc.

* Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making

any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the Instruction Book.

* Do not attempt to adjust the motor belt. Contact your nearest Service Center should any adjustment be

required.

* Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to place anything on top

of the controller.

* Always use the proper throat plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

* Do not use bent needles.

* When sewing, keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine

needle.

* Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

* For double insulated machines, when servicing, use only identical replacement parts. See instructions for

Servicing of Double-Insulated Appliances.

* Never operate the machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been

dropped or damaged, or dropped into the water. Return the machine to the nearest authorized dealer or
Service Center for examination, repair, electrical, or mechanical adjustment.

* Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine and

foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.

* Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

2

DANGER -To reduce the risk of electric shock:

WARNING -To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury to persons:

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

* Do not use outdoors.

* Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

* Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near

children.

* Do not expose the machine or machine plastic case to sunlight directly. Also, do not keep it in a very warm

or damp place.

* Do not touch the machine, foot controller and power line cord with wet hand, wet cloth or with anything wet.

* Do not connect power line cord to one of the many cords connected to one power outlet with adapters.

* Use machine on flat and stable table.

* Be sure to close the looper cover before operating the machine.

* Keep presser foot and needles away from children's reach.

* Be sure the light bulb has cooled off before changing with a new one.

* Do not dismantle or modify the machine yourself.

* Be sure to turn off the power switch and disconnect the power line plug before caring for your machine as

instructed in the Instruction Book.

* SERVICING OF DOUBLE-INSULATED PRODUCTS. In a double-insulated product, two systems of

insulation is provided instead of grounding. No grounding means is provided on a double-insulated product,
nor should a means for grounding be added to the product. Servicing of a double-insulated product requires,
extreme care and knowledge of the system, and should be done only by qualified service personnel,
Replacement parts for a double-insulated product must be identical to those parts in the product. A double-

Insulated product is marked with the word "DOUBLE-INSULATION" or "DOUBLE-INSULATED".

3

1. .........................................................Principal Parts.

2. ...........................................Accessories...................

3. ..................................................Needle Information.

4. .....................................How to Open Looper Cover

5. .....................

.Principal Parts Behind Looper Cover.

6. .....................................Preparation prior to sewing.

7. ...........Removal and Replacement of Clean Pocket

8. Preparation prior to sewing......................................

1 . How to Remove and Insert Needles........................

2

*Needle position.........................................................

*To remove needle(s).................................................

*To insert needle(s)....................................................

1 . Threading the Machine...........................................

3

*Threading diagram...................................................

*Understanding the color code..................................

*To thread the machine correctly................................

1) Threading the upper looper (Green)...................

2) Threading the lower looper (Red).......................

4) Threading the overedge left needle (Orange).....

21. ........................

.Handy Reference Chart..............

22. Suggested Tension Setting..................................

4

Page Page

30
31
31

5
7

7
8
8
8
9

10
10
10
10
11
12
12
12
13
13
13
14

14

16
17

19

20

*Setting up the thread guide holder............................

*Anti-spill net..............................................................

*Spool cap..................................................................

9. How to Disengage Movable Upper Knife................

1 . To Convert upper Looper to 2-thread converter.....

0

*To use the ..................................2-thread converter

*To disengage to upper looper...................................

11. Standard overedge and Rolled Hem Stitching........

*To sew standard overedge........................................

*To sew rolled hem.....................................................

14
14

15

15
15
16

23. How to Sew a Rolled hem...................................

1) 3-thread standard rolled hem stitching..............

2) 3-thread upper looper thread wrapped

rolled hem stitching...........................................

3) 2-thread standard rolled hem stitching..............

4) 2-thread lower looper thread wrapped

rolled hem stitching...........................................

24. Stitch Variations and Sewing Techniques...........

*Decorative Flatlocking...........................................

*How to sew an overlock blind hem........................

*How to sew a pin tucks.........................................

*Turning square corners.........................................

*Pin placement.......................................................

*Securing the thread chain.....................................

25. Machine Maintenance.........................................

*Cleaning the machine...........................................

*Oiling the machine................................................

*How to replace the stationary knife.......................

*How to exchange light bulb...................................

26.Optional Accessories............................................

*Snap-on type presser foot.....................................

*Optional presser feet.............................................

1) Elastic foot........................................................

2) Blind hem foot..................................................

3) Shirring foot......................................................

4) Pearl/Sequin foot..............................................

5) Piping/Cording foot...........................................

6) Taping foot.......................................................

27. Troubleshooting Chart.........................................

28. Relationship between Cloth, Thread and Need...

29. Specification........................................................

37
38

38
39

39
41
42
43
43
44
45
45
46
46
46
47
48
49
49
50
50
50
50
50
50
50
51
52
53

1) 2-Thread Wrapped Edge Overlock....................

2) 2-Thread Overedge...........................................

3) 3-Thread Overlock............................................

4) 3-Thread Flatlock..............................................

.

5) 3-Thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch........

6) 4-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safely Stitch.........

32
33
34
35
36

1 . How to Change Threads / Tie on Method...............

4

1 . How to Adjust the Stitch length...............................5

1 . How to Adjust the Seam width................................6

*Width adjustment by changing needle position........

*Width adjustment with adjustment knob...................

1 . How to Adjust the Presser Foot Pressure...............

7

1 . Differential Feed......................................................8

*Gathered overedge...................................................

22
23

23
23
23
24
25
25
26
27
28

*Stretch overedge......................................................

19 .... Chaining Off and Test Sewing.............................

. Selection stitches....................................................

20

) Threading the overedge right needle (Blue)........3

TABLE OF CONTENTS

16

2

1

3

4

5

6

7

8

10

9

11

12

13

14

15

1. Thread guides and holder

2. Handle

3. Left needle thread tension dial (orange)

4. Right needle thread tension dial (blue)

5. Upper looper thread tension dial (green)

6. Lower looper thread tension dial (red)

7. Spool pin

8. Throat plate

9. Cloth plate

10. Looper cover

11. Power & light switch

12. Stitch length dial

13. Hand wheel

14. Spool stand

15. Spool holder

16. Clean pocket

5

1. PRINCIPAL PARTS

17. Presser bar lifter and tension release

18. Differential feed adjusting dial

19. Cutting width dial

20. Foot pressure adjusting dial

20

17

18

19

6

1

2

3

4

5

6

789

10

11

12

13

Accessories are contained in the accessory case

1. Screw driver (large size)

2. Knife (stationary)

3. Thread Unwinder spool cap

4. Anti-spill net

5. Oiler

6. Allen Screw driver (small)

7. Tweezers

8. Needle set

9. Brush

10. Spool holder

11. Clean pocket

12. Machine cover

This overlock uses a flat shank industrial needle
that eliminates the possibility of inserting the needle
backwards.

Do not attempt to use a standard household sewing
machine needle of any size or type in this overlock.

7

1
1

4
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1

HAx1 (130/705H)

Overlock needle

4

1.

3 2-thread converter (option)

1

2. ACCESSORIES

3

. NEEDLE INFORMATION

ON

OFF

2

1

2

4

3

6

1

5

Caution:

Be sure to turn off power switch.

1 Push the cover to the right as far as it will go.

2 Pull cover down toward you.

8

Caution:

Be sure looper cover is closed when
sewing.

1. Upper looper

2. Moveable Upper knife

3. Presser foot

4. Fixed position lower knife

5. Lower looper

6. Rolled Hem lever

Use only foot controller provided with this machine.
(Type 4C-316B for U.S.A. & CANADA only)
Be sure to make reference to "Warning" on following
Page.

Connect the controller/electric plug to the machine
receptacle.

Plug power line into electric outlet.

Power Switch: Push"l"mark side to turn "ON"

To run the machine and control the speed, press
the controller.

The harder you press, the faster the machine will sew.

To stop the machine from sewing, remove your foot
from the controller.

WARNING:

Push "O" mark side to turn "OFF"

5. PRINCIPAL PARTS BEHIND THE

4. HOW TO OPEN LOOPER COVER

LOOPER COVER

6. PREPARATION PRIOR TO SEWING

1

3

2

This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of
electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a polarized outlet only way. If the plug does
not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit contact a qualified electrician
to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

9

Warning:

Insert the clean pocket under the looper cover.
Be sure the left side of clean pocket is mounted near the

cutter where the scraps drop.

* Be sure that the electrical voltage of the electric outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as the rated

voltage of the motor.

* Handle the foot controller with care and avoid dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to place anything

on top of it when not in use.

* Disconnect the power line plug from the electric outlet when changing needles, presser feet

or when leaving the machine unattended. This eliminates the possibility of starting the machine
by accidentally pressing the controller.

Replacement

To remove, hold the clean pocket as shown and
pull it outward.

Removal

POLARIZED PLUG INFORMATION (FOR U.S.A. & CANADA ONLY)

7. REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT OF
CLEAN POCKET

Anti-spill net

Spool cap

Thread spool

Press in

10

When using synthetic threads that easily spill off
the cone, slip the anti-spill net furnished with the
machine over the thread from the bottom of the
cone leaving the thread end hanging free at the
top the anti-spill net as shown at right.

Take out the thread guide from the top of
Styrofoam, and insert it as shown on the right
illustration.

This machine is shipped with the thread guide
holder on the top of styrofoam.

Fully extend the thread guide holder.

The two joints on the telescope will click into place
when they are correctly positioned.

Center the thread guides above the spool pins.

Place thread over the cone adapters on the spool
pins.

When using a regular thread spool, fit the spool cap
supplied with the machine onto the thread spool as
shown at right.

Setting Up the Thread Guide Holder

8. PREPARATION FOR THREADING

Anti-spill Net

Spool Cap

2

1

2

1

11

Open looper cover (page 8).

Pull the movable knife holder to the right as far as
it will go.

Turn the holder toward counter clockwise until the
knife clicks into a lock position.

Caution:

Be sure to turn off power switch.

Open looper cover.

Pull the movable knife holder to the right as far as
it will go.

Turn the holder clockwise until the knife clicks into the
working position

Caution:

Always close looper cover before operating
machine.

To place movable knife in working position

To place movable knife in nonworking position

9. HOW TO DISENGAGE MOVABLE
UPPER KNIFE

12

To engage the , insert the sharp part into
the

2-thread converter

eye of upper looper.

When not threading the upper looper, the 2-thread converter
must be engaged into the upper looper eye.

When using the upper looper, the must

be

2-thread converter

disengaged.

Caution:

Be sure to turn off power switch

To disengage the 2-thread converter, raise the handle of
upper looper according to picture .

A raised point located in the trough of 2-thread converter
must be inserted and fixed in the eye of the 2-thread
converter.

1

2

3

1

2

3

3

To Use the 2-thread converter

To Disengage to Upper Looper

10. TO CONVERT UPPER LOOPER TO
2-THREAD CONVERTER

R

N

R

N

13

Set seam width finger knob to N to move seam
width finger to standard overedge sewing position.

Set seam width finger knob to R to retract the seam
width finger and set it for rolled hem.

Note: Be sure to push seam width finger knob as far

as it will go in the direction of setting R.

Note: Be sure to push seam width finger knob as

far as it will go in the direction of setting N.

To Sew Rolled Hem

To Sew Standard Overedge

11. STANDARD OVEREDGE AND ROLLED
HEM STITCHING

Turn the hand wheel toward you until the needles are
at their highest position.

Place a thick piece of fabric [such as felt] under the
presser foot. Lower the needles halfway into the
fabric.

Loosen, but do not remove the needle set screws with
the small allen screwdriver. Hold the needles with
your fingers and raise the needle bar. The needles
will remain in the fabric.

A. Overedge needleleft
B. Overedge needleright

With this machines, two needles can be inserted
to the needle clamp as shown in the drawing but only
one or two needles are to be used for sewing.

The Instruction Book refers to different needle
positions by illustrating the needle clamp at right.

Note: When both the left and right overedge needles

are inserted, the left needle will be slightly
higher than the right.

Caution:

Be sure to disconnect the machine from the
electric outlet before removing needle(s).

Hold the needle with the flat surface to the back.

Insert the needle into the needle socket as far as it
will go.

When inserting a needle, if you first lower it down
into the hole in the throat plate it will line up with the
needle socket. Then direct it upwards

Note: When inserting needles into the A or B sockets

it is necessary to loosen both A & B Allen Screws.
After inserting the needles equally tighten both
Screws.

14

Overedge left needle
Overedge right needle

Left and right
overedge needle
thread

B

To loosen

To tighten

Flat surface to the rear

B

A

Right overedge
needle thread

To Insert Needles (s)

12. HOW TO REMOVE AND INSERT
NEEDLES

Needle Position

To Remove Needle (s)

B

A

A

B

4

312

15

A color coded threading diagram is located inside
the looper cover for quick reference.

Thread the machine in the order 1 to 4 as shown
at right.

Note: Threads go through the take-up lever cover

for Overlock as shown.

1. Upper looper thread............................

2. Lower looper thread............................

3. Left needle thread...............................

4. Right needle thread.............................

Green
Red
Orange
Blue

Left needle thread

Right Needle thread

Upper looper thread

Topside

Lower looper thread

Underside

13. THREADING THE MACHINE

Threading Diagram: Overlock and Safety Stitches

Tension Color Code: Overlock and Safety Stitch

To Thread The Machine Correctly

1) Threading the (Green)Upper Looper

16

Caution:

Be sure to turn off power switch.

Thread the top cover
thread guide by pulling
the thread towards the
left until it slips under
guide. Then pull
thread along the right
side of button as
illustrated.

While holding thread with fingers, pass it between
the tension discs and pull thread down to make
certain it is properly located in between the
tension discs 3.

Thread the upper looper as indicated 1~9.

Pass thread from back to the front through the
thread guide 1.

Raise Presser foot to release tension discs.

2

4

3

3

3

2

2

4

7

6

9

8

2

5

3

1

1

2) Threading the (Red)Lower Looper

17

Thread the top cover
thread guide by pulling
the thread towards the
left until it slips under
guide. Then pull thread
along the right side of
button as illustrated.

Thread the lower looper as indicated 1~10.

Thread the looper area of the machine following the
green color coded thread guides (4~9).

Thread the hole in the upper looper from front to
back 9. Note: Make sure thread passes behind lower
looper.

Note: Use tweezers provided in the accessory

case to aid in threading the looper.

Pull about 10cm(4 inches) of thread through the
looper and place to the back of the throat plate.

Pass thread from back to the front through the
thread guide 1.

Raise Presser foot to release Tension discs

10cm

(4")

2

2

9

8

9

5

4

8

6

7

7

9

6

5

8

4

2

3

1

10

1

10cm

(4")

18

Thread the looper eye (A) from front to back.
Pull about 10cm (4 inches) of thread.
Position thread into V cutout (B) on threader.
Firmly hold thread tail with left hand and pull
Threader lever (C) up into place (D).

Turn the hand wheel toward you until the lower
looper extends out 5~10mm from the throat
plate edge.

Thread the looper area of the machine following
the red color coded thread guides 4~10.

Note: Use tweezers provided in the accessory

case to aid in threading the looper.

While holding thread with finger, pass it between
the tension discs and pull thread down to make
certain it is properly located in between the
tension discs 3.

Place the thread with the point of the tweezers
slightly from left and to the right of threading guide 4.

Place the thread with the point of the tweezers
slightly from front and to the back of threading guide 5.

4

3

2

10

9

9

D

B

A

10

C

4

5

6

7

8

5

3

4

3

8

6

7

19

Pass thread from back to the front through the
thread guide 1.

While holding thread with finger, pass it between
the tension discs and pull thread down to make
certain it is properly located in between the
tension discs 3.

Thread the top cover
thread guide by pulling
the thread towards the
left until it slips under
guide. Then pull thread
along the right side of
button as illustrated.

Thread the right needle as indicated 1~9.

Raise Presser foot to release Tension discs.

4

3

2

3

2

7

5

6

3

2

1

4

3

2

1

3) Threading the (Blue)Overedge Right Needle
(B on needle clamp)

9

8

20

4) Threading the (Orange)Overedge Left Needle
(A on needle clamp)

Thread the eye of the right needle 9.

Note: Use of tweezers in the accessory case will

make needle eye threading easy.

The position of the thread must be behind the thread
guide.

Draw about 10cm(4 inches) of thread through
needle eye towards the rear of machine.

Place the thread to the back, under the presser
foot.

Pass thread from back to the front through the
thread guide 1.

Thread the left needle as indicated 1~9.

Raise Presser foot to release Tension discs.

Continue to thread points 4~8.

Note: Slip thread into the rear slot on the thread

guide 5 and bottom slot of take-up lever cover 6.
Then slip thread into the right slot on the thread
guide 7, and into the right slot on the thread
guide 8.

4

1

7

5

6

7

3

2

1

8

7

6

5

4

(4")

10cm

Before threading eye of needle, slip thread behind
thread guide located on the bottom of the needle
clamp.

9

8

9

9

8

21

While holding thread with fingers, pass it between
the tension discs and pull thread down to make
certain it is properly located in between the
tension discs 3.

Thread the eye of the left needle 9.

Note: Use of tweezers in the accessory case will

make needle eye threading easy.

The position of the thread must be behind the
the thread guide.

Draw about 10cm (4 inches) of thread through
needle eye to hang free.

Place the thread to the back, under the presser
foot.

Continue to thread points 4~8.

Note: Slip thread into the front slot of the thread

guide 5 and into the lower slot of take-up
lever cover 6.
Then continue by slipping thread into the
Left slot of the thread guides 7 and 8.

Before threading eye of needle, slip thread behind
thread guide located on the bottom of the needle
clamp.

4

3

2

7

3

2

8

7

5

4

6

3

2

(4")

10cm

Thread the top cover
threadguide by pulling
the thread towards the
left until it slips under
guide. Then pull thread
along the right side of
button as illustrated.

9

8

9

22

To change thread type or color, clip thread near the
spool.

Place new thread on stand.

Tie new thread and old thread ends together with a
square knot. Clip thread tails to 2~3cm (1 inch)
length. If clipped too short, threads may come
untied.

Firmly pull both thread to test knot security.

Raise Presser foot to release Tension discs.

Pull the threads through the machine one at a time.

If threads do not pull easily, check for tangles on
thread guides or looping under thread stand.

When pulling thread through the needles, STOP
when the knot is in front of the needle.

Cut the thread, and insert it through the needle.

14. HOW TO CHANGE THREADS: TIE ON
METHOD

Left ne dlee

(13/64")

7mm

(17/64")

5mm

Right ne dlee

3mm

(1/8")

5mm

(3/16")

(10/64")

(15/64")

Left ne dlee

Right ne dlee

6.0 mm

4.0 mm

23

The stitch length dial should be set on the N
setting for most sewing conditions.

Adjust the stitch length to N~ 4 when sewing
heavy weight fabrics.

Adjust the stitch length to 2~N when sewing
lightweight fabrics to obtain excellent seams
without puckering.

Overedge seam width can be achieved by
repositioning the needle position and also with the
width adjustment knob.

Overedge seam width can be adjusted by changing
the needle position.

a) When using left needle.................................6 mm

(15/64 inch)

b) When only right needle is used....................4 mm

(10/64 inch)

Use of width adjustment knob will permit further
adjustment within the width range shown below.

a) When using left needle...............................5~7mm

(13/64 ~ 17/64 inch)

b) When only right needle is used............3.0 ~ 5.0 mm

(1/8 ~ 3/16 inch)

4

3

N

2

16. HOW TO ADJUST THE SEAM
WIDTH

15. HOW TO ADJUST THE STITCH
LENGTH

Width Adjustment by Changing Needle Position

Width Adjustment with Adjustment Knob

5

4

1

N

2

6.5

N

5.5

N

24

As shown on the illustration, turn the dial

counter clockwise to increase width of cutting, and
clockwise to decrease width of cutting.

The presser foot pressure of this machine is
pre-adjusted at the factory to suit the sewing of
medium weight fabrics.

Most of the materials do not require adjustment of
presser foot pressure. However, there are some
instances where adjustment is necessary, such as
when sewing lightweight and heavyweight fabrics.

In such case, N for normal, 1 for the lightest pressure,
and 5 for the heaviest.

For lightweight fabric...Decrease the pressure

For heavyweight fabric...Increase the pressure

17. HOW TO ADJUST THE PRESSER
FOOT PRESSURE

Width adjustment knob

0.8

0.6

N

1.5

2.0

N

0.8

0.6

2.0

1.5

25

Differential feed is a system which "stretches" or
"gathers" the fabric, when the amount of feed of front
feed dogs in relation to the rear feed dogs is changed.

The differential feed ratio ranges from 1:0.6~1:2.0.

Adjustment is made by means of the differential feed

adjusting dial pictured at right.

Use of differential feed is very effective in overedging
stretch fabrics and fabrics cut on the bias.

Setting "N" is differential feed adjusting dial
setting for ratio 1:1.

Gathered overedge is most suited for shirring
sleeves, yokes, front and back bodices, skirt hems,
etc. in stretch fabrics such as knits and jersey before
assembling into garment.

Set differential feed adjusting dial below
setting "N". Setting of adjusting dial
depends on material being sewn as well as the
amount of desired gather. Therefore set dial to suit the
fabric and test sew before sewing your garment.

Note: For normal overedge stitching, set differential

feed adjusting dial to graduation "N".

N

N

1.5

1.5

18. DIFFERENTIAL FEED

Gathered Overedge

To set the differential feed adjusting dial for gathering

26

Stretch overedge is ideal for sewing decorative
collars, sleeves, skirt hems, etc. on loosely knit and
woven fabrics.

Set differential feed adjusting lever knob above
setting "N".

To sew a seam, apply gentle tension to the fabric

by holding the seam lightly in front and back of the
presser foot.

Note: *if amount of "stretch" is not correctly set in

relation to the fabric being sewn, the fabric
is apt to shift away from the needle
resulting in improperly sewn overedge
seam. In such case, reset differential feed
adjusting dial closer to the center mark.

*Be sure to reset the differential feed

adjusting dial to graduation "N" for
normal overedge stitching.

1.5

2.0

0.6

0.8

N

Stretch Overedge

To set the differential feed adjusting dial for stretch

27

When the machine is completely threaded, bring all
of the threads across the throat plate and slightly to
the left under the presser foot.

Hold the threads and apply a slight tension.

Turn the hand wheel toward you 2 or 3 complete
turns to start the thread chain.

Lower presser foot.

Continue holding the chain and press on the foot
controller until the chain is 5~7.5 cm (2~3 inches)
in length.

Place fabric under the front of the presser foot and
sew a test sample.

Note: Do not pull on the fabric while sewing as this

may deflect the needle, causing it to break.

At the end of the sample, continue to run the
machine with the presser foot down until the chain
reaches 15 ~20 cm (6~8 inches) in length.

Note: In case it is difficult to chain off when

chain stitching, pull the fabric lightly
backward.

Cut thread.

Note: Anytime you have rethreaded the machine

always chain off and sew a text sample to
test tensions and make adjustments as
necessary.

A mark to indicate the needle location is provided
on the presser foot fitted on this machine. Use
this mark as a guide when sewing.

Mark Mark

5~7.5cm

(2~3")

19. CHAINING OFF AND TEST SEWING

Information

20. SELECTION OF STITCHES

This machine is capable of producing various types of stitches according to the combination of needle positions,
threading methods, tension adjustment and the use of convertible right looper/ .converter

Stitch Type Reference

Page

28

1. Two-thread 1-needle 2-thread stitch is used for
Wrapped Edge
Overlock

It is also ideal for rolled and blind hemming.
A 4 mm and 6 mm overlock seam width
can be obtained by changing the needle
position.

2. Two-thread 1-needle 2-thread stitch is used for
Overedge overedging common fabrics. It is also

ideal for flatlock (butted or lapped) seams
and blind hemming. A 4 mm and
6 mm overedge seam width can be
obtained by changing the needle position.

Overlock

overedging and seaming on common
fabrics. A 4mm and 6 mm overlock seam
width can be obtained by changing the
needle position.

4. Three-thread 1-needle 3-thread stitch is used for
Flatlock butted or lapped seams and ornamental

stitching with decorative thread. Also,
a 4 mm and 6 mm flatlock width can
be obtained by changing the needle
position.

5. Three-thread 2-needle 3-thread stitch that is ideal for
Ultra-Stretch lightweight, extremely stretchy fabrics
Mock Safety such as tricot and spandex.
Stitch

6.Four-thread Ultra- 2-needle 4-thread stitch that is ideal

Stretch Mock for medium to heavyweight stretchy
Safety Stitch fabrics such as double knits and swim

wear.

3. Three-thread 1-needle 3-thread stitch is used for

seaming lightweight or stretch fabrics.

7. Three-thread 1-needle 3-thread stitch is used for sewing

Rolled Hem narrow rolled hems.

38

31

32

33

34

35

36

29

* Depending on the needle positions used, this machine can sew 2-thread (option-2-thread converter is needed)

and 3-thread standard width 4 mm overedge anda6mmwide overedge seams.

Also, for overedging heavyweight fabrics, the seam width can be increased still more by turning the overedge
seam width adjustment knob. (See page 23)

Overedge width 4.0 mm 6.0 mm

Needle used Overedge right needle Overedge left needle

Needle thread Blue Orange
tension dial

2 . HANDY REFERENCE CHART1

Stitch Type

Tension Dial : Numbers shown are average
settings on medium weight abric with

f

St ndard#60 polyester spun threada

The thread tension becomes tighter as the dials are tumed to higher numbers. The tension settings shown on this page as well as throughout the

Instruction book are suggested guides. Adjust thread tensions to suit the fabric and size of thread of thread used. For best results make tension
adjustments in small increments of no greater than half a number at a time.

30

Two - Thread
Wrapped Edge
Overlock

Two - Thread
Overedge

Three - Thread
Overlock

Three - Thread
Flatlock

Three - Thread
Ultra - Stretch mock
Safety Stitch

four - Thread
Ultra - Stretch mock
Safety Stitch

1

2

3

4

5

6

4.0mm

6.0mm

4.0mm

6.0mm

4.0mm

6.0mm

4.0mm

6.0mm

Page

Orange Blue

6.5 4.0 31

8.5 3.0 31

1.0 5.5 32

1.0 5.0 32

4.0 4.0 4.0 33

4.0 3.5 3.5 33

0.0 4.5 7.0 34

4.50.0 7.0 34

4.08.5 3.0 35

4.0 364.0 4.04.0

Green Red

7

5.0

4.0 7.0 38

Three-Thread
Rolled Hem

4.0mm

Underside

Lower looper thread

Needle thread

Topside

Red

Underside

Underside

Lower looper thread

4.0

Needle thread

Topside

Orange

Medium weight

Fabric

6.5

Converter

Tension Dial

Blue Green

Lower looper thread

Needle thread

SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB

STITCH LENGTH

Topside

CONVERTER USE

2~4

N

Medium weight

Fabric

Green

Tension Dial

Converter

Orange Blue

8.5

Red

3.0

NEEDLE POSITION

31

Set each tension dial to setting shown at right
and test sew on a sample of your fabric.

Note: * These are suggested tension settings only.

* Tension settings are effected by;

1) Type and thickness of fabric

2) Needle size

3) Size, type and fiber content of thread

When the lower looper thread tension is too loose;

-Turn the lower looper thread tension dial (red) toward
a higher number.

When the lower looper thread tension is too tight or
needle thread tension is too loose;

-Turn the lower looper thread tension dial (red) toward
a lower number.

-Or, turn the needle thread tension dial (orange or blue)
toward a higher number.

1) 2-thread Wrapped Edge Overlock

Correct Balance

22. SUGGESTED TENSION SETTING

How to Balance

Underside

Underside

Underside

Needle thread

Lower looper thread

Needle thread

Lower looper thread

Topside

Needle thread

Topside

Lower looper thread

Topside

STITCH LENGTH

CONVERTER

NEEDLE POSITION

SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB

USE

N

2~4

32

Set each tension dial to settings shown at right
and test sew on a sample of your fabric.

Note: * These are suggested tension settings only.

* Tension settings are effected by;

1) Type and thickness of fabric

2) Needle size

3) Size, type and fiber content of thread

* See page 12 for instructions on converting

upper looper to converter.

When the lower looper thread lies on the underside
of the fabric;

-Turn the lower looper thread tension dial (red) toward
a higher number.

-Or, turn the needle thread tension dial (orange or blue)
toward a lower number.

When the needle thread tension is too loose;

-Turn the needle thread tension dial (orange or blue)
toward a higher number.

-Or, turn the lower looper thread tension dial (red)
toward a lower number.

2) 2-thread Overedge

Medium weight

Fabric

Green

Tension Dial

Converter

Orange Blue

1.0

Red

5.5

How to Balance

Correct Balance

Needle thread

Needle thread

Underside

Topside

Underside

Lower looper thread

Lower looper thread

Upper looper thread

Topside

Needle thread

Underside

Lower looper thread

Upper looper thread

Upper looper thread

Topside

STITCH LENGTH

CONVERTER

Needle thread

NEEDLE POSITION

SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB

Upper looper thread

Underside

Topside

Lower looper thread

2~4

N

N/A

33

Set each tension dial to settings shown at right
and test sew on a sample of your fabric.

Note: * These are suggested tension settings only.

* Tension settings are effected by;

1) Type and thickness of fabric

2) Needle size

3) Size, type and fiber content of thread

When the upper looper thread lies on the underside
of the fabric;

-Turn the upper looper thread tension dial (green)
to a higher number.

- Or, turn the lower looper thread tension dial (red)

to a lower number.

When the lower looper thread appears on the top of
the fabric;

-Turn the lower looper thread tension dial (red)

toward a higher number.

-Or, turn the upper looper thread tension dial (green)

to a lower number.

When the needle thread is too loose, turn the needle
tension dial (orange or blue) to a higher number.

Medium weight

Fabric

Green

Tension Dial

Orange Blue

4.0

Red

3.5

Medium weight

Fabric

Green

Tension Dial

Orange Blue Red

4.04.04.0

3.5

3) 3-thread Overlock

How to Balance

Correct Balance

Needle thread

Upper looper thread

Needle thread

Upper looper thread

Topside

Underside

Lower looper thread

Topside

Underside

Needle thread

Lower looper thread

Needle thread

Needle thread

Topside

Upper looper thread

Lower looper thread

Needle thread

Underside

STITCH LENGTH

Upper looper thread

Needle thread

SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB

Topside

Needle thread

Lower looper thread

Underside

2~4

N

N/A

NEEDLE POSITION

34

Set each tension dial to settings shown at right
and test sew on a sample of your fabric.

Note: * These are suggested tension settings only.

* Tension settings are effected by;

1) Type and thickness of fabric

2) Needle size

3) Size, type and fiber content of thread

When the lower looper thread tension is too loose;

-Turn the lower looper thread tension dial (red) toward
a higher number.

- Or, turn the needle thread tension dial (orange or blue)
Toward a lower number.

When the upper looper thread tension is too loose;

- Turn the upper looper thread tension dial (green)
toward a higher number.

- Or, turn the needle thread tension dial (orange or blue)
toward a lower number.

When the needle thread tension is too loose;

- Turn the needle thread tension dial (orange or blue)
toward a higher number.

-Or, turn the upper looper thread tension dial (green)

toward a lower number.

CONVERTER

Medium weight

Fabric

Green

Tension Dial

Orange Blue

0

Red

Medium weight

Fabric

Green

Tension Dial

Orange Blue Red

7.04.50

7.04.5

4) 3-thread Flatlock

How to Balance

Correct Balance

35

Set each tension dial to settings shown at right and
test sew on a sample of your fabric.

Note: * These are suggested tension settings only.

* Tension settings are effected by;

1)Type and thickness of fabric

2) Needle size

3) Size, type and fiber content of thread

When the lower looper thread tension is too loose;

-Turn the lower looper thread tension dial (red)
toward a higher number.

When the left needle thread tension is too loose;

-Turn the left needle thread tension dial (orange)
toward a higher number.

When the right needle thread tension is too loose;

-Turn the needle thread tension dial (blue)
toward a higher number.

NEEDLE POSITION

SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB N

STITCH LENGTH

2~4

USE

Left Needle thread

Right Needdle thread

Topside

Lower looper thread

Underside

Left Needle thread

Right Needdle thread

Topside

Lower looper thread

Underside

Left Needle thread

Right Needdle thread

Topside

Lower looper thread

Underside

Left Needle thread

Right Needdle thread

Topside

Lower looper thread

Underside

CONVERTER

Medium weight

Fabric

Green

Tension Dial

Converter

Orange Blue

8.5

Red

3.04.0

How to Balance

Correct Balance

5) 3-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch

36

Set each tension dial to settings shown at right and test
sew on a sample of your fabric.

Note: * These are suggested tension settings only.

* Tension settings are effected by;

1) Type and thickness of fabric

2) Needle size

3) Size, type and fiber content of thread

When the upper looper thread lies on the underside of
the fabric;

-Turn the upper looper thread tension dial (green)
toward a higher number.

- Or, turn lower looper thread tension dial (red) to a
lower number.

When the lower looper thread appears on the top of
the fabric;

-Turn the lower looper thread tension dial (red) toward a
higher number.

- Or, turn the upper looper thread tension dial (green)
toward a lower number.

When the left needle thread tension is too loose;

-Turn the needle thread tension dial (orange)
toward a higher number.

When the right needle thread tension is too loose;

-Turn the right needle thread tension dial (blue) toward
a higher number.

Left needle thread

Right Needle thread

Upper looper thread

Topside

Lower looper thread

Underside

Left needle thread

Right Needle thread

Upper looper thread

Topside

Lower looper thread

Underside

Left needle thread

Right Needle thread

Upper looper thread

Topside

Lower looper thread

Underside

NEEDLE POSITION

SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB N

STITCH LENGTH 2~4

N/A

Left needle thread

Right Needle thread

Upper looper thread

Topside

Lower looper thread

Underside

Left needle thread

Right Needle thread

Upper looper thread

Topside

Lower looper thread

Underside

CONVERTER

Medium weight

Fabric

Green

Tension Dial

Orange Blue Red

4.0

4.04.04.0

How to Balance

Correct Balance

6) 4-thread Ultra Stretch Mock Safety Stitch

R

N

R

37

This machine can sew four types of rolled hems.

Rolled hemming is done by rolling and overedging

the fabric edge.

Light weight fabrics such as lawn, voile, organdy,
crepe, etc. perform the best.

Rolled hemming is not suited for heavy or stiff
fabrics.

NOTE: Rolled hemming can only be performed

with the overedge right needle.

Remove the overedge left needle.

Move seam width finger knob to setting R.

Align left face of seam width finger support plate
with R mark on throat plate by turning seam width
adjustment knob, as required.

Set stitch length dial to "1~2" and a fine seam
will be sewn.

Needle: HAx1 (130/705H)

Thread: A variety of thread combinations can be
used for rolled hemming.

Caution:

Be sure to turn off power switch.

N

2

1

23. HOW TO SEW A ROLLED HEM

Machine Set up

NEEDLE POSITION

SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB R

STITCH LENGTH

1~2

Correct Balance

Correct Balance

38

Set each tension dial to settings shown at right
and test sew on a sample of your fabric.

Note: For a beautiful rolled hem thread the upper looper

with wooly nylon and the needle and lower looper
with lightweight regular thread.

Set each tension dial to settings shown at right
and text sew on a sample of your fabric.

4.0

4.0

5.0
0

4.0

4.0

Woolly nylon

Upper looper thread

Lower looper thread

Needle thread

Topside

Underside

Upper looper thread

Lower looper thread

Needle thread

Needle thread

Topside

Underside

Polyester

5.0

5.0

4.0
0

7.0

7.5

Woolly nylon

Polyester

Light Weight
fabric

Light Weight
fabric

Green

Tension Dial

Orange Blue Red

Green

Tension Dial

Orange Blue Red

1) 3-thread Standard Rolled Hem Stitching

2) 3-thread Upper Looper Thread Wrapped
Rolled Hem Stitching

39

Set each tension dial to setting shown at right and
test sew on a sample of your fabric.

Note: For a beautiful rolled hem thread the lower looper

with wooly nylon and the needle with lightweight
regular thread.

Convert upper looper to converter (See page 12)

Set each tension dial to setting shown at right and
test sew on a sample of your fabric.

Lower looper thread

Needle thread

Topside

Underside

Lower looper thread

Needle thread

Topside

Underside

NEEDLE POSITION

SEAM WIDTH FINGER KNOB R

STITCH LENGTH

1~2

Light Weight
fabric

Light Weight
fabric

4.5

4.5

4.0

2.5

Woolly nylon

Polyester

Woolly nylon

Green

Tension Dial

Orange Blue Red

3.0

3.5

Green

Tension Dial

Orange Blue Red

3) 2-thread Standard Rolled Hem Stitching

4) 2-thread Lower Thread Wrapped
Rolled Hem Stitching

Correct Balance

Correct Balance

40

Hold the thread chain when you begin sewing to
keep it from curling into the seam.

Apply a small drop of liquid seam sealant to the
end of the seam. Allow to dry, then cut the chain
close to the stitches.

Note: Test the liquid seam sealant for color

fastness before use.

Place a slight tension on the material in the sewing
direction and a finer seam finish can be obtained.

The minimum overedge stitch width that can be
obtained for rolled hemming is approximately

1.5 mm (1/16 inch) since the cutting width cannot
be set below 3.5 mm (9/64 inch).

To Secure the Rolled Hem Thread Chain

Additional Information About Rolled Hemming

Lower looper thread

Needle thread

Underside

Upper looper thread

Topside

Needle thread

41

A flatlock stitch is achieved by adjusting the tension of
the 2-thread (option) or 3-thread overlock stitch, sewing the
seam, and then pulling the fabric apart to flatten the seam.

The flatlock stitch can be used as a construction and
decorative stitch or for ornamentation only.

Use either overedge right needle or overedge left needle.

Begin with the machine threaded and tension balanced for
the 2-thread overedge (page 32) or 3-thread flatlock stitch
(page 34).

Place the fabric wrong sides together to sew a decorative
stitch on the right side of the garment.

Sew the seam, trimming the excess fabric.

The needle thread (orange or blue) will formaVonthe
underside of the fabric.

The lower looper thread will pull into a straight line at the
fabric edge.

Pull on opposite sides of the seam to pull the stitches flat.

How to Sew a Flatlock Decorative Seam

1) Machine Set Up

2) Flatlocking a Seam

24. STITCH VARIATIONS AND
SEWING TECHNIQUES

2

1

42

Place the movable upper knife in the nonworking
position (page 11). The fabric is not trimmed on
this stitch.

Fold fabric wrong sides together.

Position the fabric so the seam is sewn with part
of the stitch extending off the fabric.

Pull on opposite sides of the stitch to flatten.

The tensions must be correctly adjusted for the
fabric to pull flat.

The upper looper thread is the prominent thread
in the flatlock stitch. Place a decorative thread
in the upper looper and inconspicuous threads
in the lower looper and needle.

For a ladder stitch, sew seam with right sides
together. The needle thread will be the prominent
thread that creates the ladder. (A)

3) Decorative Flatlocking

4) Additional Information About Flatlocking

A

Underside

Topside

1

2

43

The excess fabric is trimmed and the hem is sewn and the
raw edges are overlocked in one operation.

The overlock blind hem is best suited for sewing knit wear.
It provides a durable finish that is almost invisible.

Use overedge right needle and adjust machine for a narrow
3-thread overlock stitch. (See page 33)

Note: The three-thread flatlock stitch can also be used.

(See page 34)

Set the stitch length dial at 4

Fold the hem to the wrong side of the fabric, then back to
the right side with 6 mm (1/4 inch) beyond the fold.

Stitch on the extended hem edge, allowing the machine
needle to barely catch the edge of the fold.

Note: An optional blindstitch foot is available.

(See page 50)

Sew decorative pin tucks on the fabric before cutting
out the garment.

Use overedge right needle and adjust machine for a
narrow 3-thread overlock stitch. (See page 33)

Note: The rolled hemstitch can also be used for this

technique.

Place the movable upper knife in the nonworking
position. (See page 11)

Mark the fabric with the desired number of pin tucks
using a water-soluble fabric marker

4

3

How to Sew an Overlock Blind Hem

How to Sew Pin Tucks

44

Cut out approximately 2cm (51/64 inch) from the corner,
in line with the overedge seam edge.

Sew one stitch beyond point (A) and stop.

Raise needle and presser foot.

Pull the fabric to the rear of the machine just enough
to release the thread caught on the finger of the throat
plate.

Note: Presser foot has been removed to show detail.

Turn the fabric and lower the presser foot so that the
knife is positioned in line with the cut edge.

Pull slack threads up, then start to sew.

Fold the fabric with the wrong sides together and sew.

Press the pin tucks in the same direction.

Cutting line

Cutting line

Cutting line

A

A

Knife

2cm

2cm

(1) Outside Corner

Turning Square Corners

Seam line

Cut

Needle position

Seam line

45

Insert pins to the left of the presser foot. The pins
will be easy to remove and are away from the cutting
action of the knives.

Thread a large eye, hand sewing needle (such as a
tapestry needle) with the thread chain.

Insert the needle into the end of the seam to secure
thread.

Cut inside corner up to seam line as shown

Sew along seam line.

Sew up to end of fold. (Leave needle in fabric)

Raise presser foot. (Leave needle in fabric)

Spread fold and re-fold so that seam line is straight.

Caution:

Sewing over pins will damage and /or destroy
the cutting edge of the knives.

Pin Placement

Securing the Thread Chain

(2) Inside Corner

46

An overlock machine requires more maintenance than a
conventional machine for two reasons:

1) A lot of lint is produced due to the cutting action
of the knives.

2) An overlock runs at a very high speed and needs

to be oiled frequently to lubricate the internal
working parts.

Clean the lint from the looper and knife area often
with a dry lint brush.

Danger:

Before cleaning your machine, disconnect
power line plug from the wall receptacle.

The oiling points shown in the diagram, should be
oiled periodically.

Note: Use only sewing machine oil. Do not use any

other oil or damage could result.

Danger:

Before lubricating your machine, disconnect
power line plug from the wall receptacle.

A

B

Oil

Cleaning the Machine

Oiling the Machine

25. MACHINE MAINTENANCE

b

d

b

c

a

47

The stationary knife should be changed when it
becomes dull.

The stationary knife can be replaced according to
the directions provided, however if there are any
difficulties experienced, consult your dealer
representative to make the replacement.

Be sure that the power line plug is disconnected
from the electric source.

Open the looper cover and set the moveable upper
knife (a) in the working position.

Loosen the stationary knife set screw (b) and remove
the stationary knife (a).

Turn the hand wheel to lower the stationary knife holder

to its lowest position.

In this position, put a new stationary knife in the
groove of the stationary knife holder, making sure
that the edge of the stationary knife is approximately

0.5 to 1.0 mm below the surface of the fixed cutting

blade (d).

Tighten stationary knife set screw (b).

Before replacing the stationary knife,
disconnect power line plug from the wall
receptacle.

0.5~1mm

How to Replace the Knifemoveable upper

Danger:

Light cover screw

Replace Remove

Replace Remove

48

Light bulb is available at your dealer shop. Take
old bulb to the dealer shop and ask for same bulb.

If voltage indicated on the electrical rating plate of
your machine is 120V, ask for light bulb conforming
to following specification.

- Bayonet type: 110~120V, 15W

Glass shape: T-20
Lamp cap: E12
Overall length: 48mm

Remove light cover screw and while pushing the
cover lightly to the rear, swing cover to the left and
remove from machine as shown in the illustration.
Turn bulb to the left to remove. To replace the bulb,
push bulb into the socket and turn to the right.

If voltage indicated on the electrical rating plate of
your machine is 220-240V, ask for light bulb
conforming to following specification.

-Edison type (screw type): 220 ~240V, 15W
Glass shape: T-22

Lamp cap: E14

Overall length: 56mm

Remove light cover screw and while pushing the
cover lightly to the rear, swing cover to the left and
remove from machine as shown in the illustration.
Turn bulb to the left to remove. To replace the bulb,
screw bulb into the socket and turn to the right.

Danger:

Always unplug before re-lamping.

Caution:

Be sure the light bulb has cooled off before
changing with a new one.

Warning:

Replace the light cover first before connecting
the power line plug.

How to Exchange Light Bulb

B

A

C

49

The following optional presser feet specially
prepared for this machine are available at
extra-charge.

Note: Do not use presser foot made for other

machines. Use of such presser foot may
result in interference with the needle and knife
and can be hazardous.

The snap-on type presser foot of this machine
permits easy removal and replacement.

Caution:

Be sure to disconnect the power line plug or
turn off the power switch when changing the
presser foot.

Raise presser foot and raise needle bar to its
highest position.

Press red colored lever (A) located on back of
clamp under the presser foot shank, raise presser
bar lifter to its High Lift position and while holding
the presser bar lifter in this position, remove the
presser foot plate.

Place presser foot plate on throat plate under
presser foot shank so that hinge pin (C) will fit in
slot (B) of the shank. Then lower presser bar lifter.

If presser foot plate can not be placed under
presser foot shank easily, raise presser bar lifter
to its High Lift position and while holding it in this
position, place presser foot plate under presser
foot shank. Then lower presser bar lifter.

Raise presser bar lifter and make sure the presser
foot plate is properly attached to the presser foot
shank.

Replacement

26. OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES

Snap-On Type Presser Foot

Removal

50

This foot is used for attaching elastic tape to the
garment and the amount of contraction of the
elastic tape can be adjusted as required.

This foot is for sewing cuffs on knit fabrics, skirt
and trouser seams where seam should not be
visible.

This foot is most suited for gathering when sewing
tiered skirts, yokes, cuffs and frills on skirts, etc.
This foot is also suited for sewing two fabrics together
and gathering the bottom fabric in one operation.

This foot is used for sewing on beads, etc.

This sewing foot is suited for sewing welting between
two plies of fabric.

This sewing foot is suited for sewing on tapes, etc.

Optional Presser Feet

1) Elastic Foot

2) Blind Hem Foot

3) Shirring Foot

4) Pearl/Sequin Foot

6) Taping Foot

5) Piping/Cording Foot

27. TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

51

SolutionProblem Page

Fabric does not feed well - Lengthen stitch length.

- Increase presser foot pressure for heavy weight fabric.

- Decrease presser foot pressure for lightweight fabric.

Needle breaks - Insert needle correctly.

- Do not pull fabric while sewing.

- Tighten needle set screw.

- Use a larger needle on heavy fabrics.

Thread breaks - Check threading.

- Check for tangled or caught thread.

- Insert needle correctly.

- Insert new needle, current needle may be bent or have a blunt
Point.

- Use only high quality thread.

- Loosen thread tension.

Stitch skip - Insert new needles, current needles may be bent or have a blunt

point. Use only HAx1(130/705H) overlock needles

- Tighten needle set screw.

- Insert needles correctly.

- Change type or size of needles.

- Check threading.

- Increase presser foot pressure.

- Use a high quality thread.

Irregular stitches - Balance thread tension.

- Check for tangled or caught thread.

- Check threading.

Fabric puckers - Loosen thread tension.

- Check for tangled or caught thread.

- Use high quality lightweight thread.

- Shorten stitch length.

- Decrease presser foot pressure for lightweight fabrics.

Irregular trimming - Check alignment of knives.

- Replace one or both knives.

Fabric jams - Close looper cover before sewing.

- Check for tangled or caught thread.

- Compress thick layers of fabric with conventional machine before
sewing with overlock.

Machine does not operate - Connect machine to power source.

23
24
24

14
27
14
14

15~21

22
14

7

52

26~36

7
14
14
14

15~21

24
52

31~36

22

15~21

31~36

22
52
23
24

47
47

8
22

8

52

Type of Fabric Type of Thread Needle

HAx1 (130/705H)

WOVEN

Lightweight

Lawn, Organdy, Voile, Cotton: #100
Crepe, etc. Silk/ Rayon: #100

Spun: #80 ~ #90
Polyester: #80 ~ #100

Medium Weight

Muslin, Seersucker, Satin, Cotton: #60 ~ #80
Gabardine, Broadcloth, etc Silk/ Rayon: #50

Spun: #60 ~ #80
Polyester: #60 ~ #80

Heavy Weight

Cotton: #40 ~ #60
Oxford, Denim, Tweed, Silk/ Rayon: #40 ~ #60
Serge,Corduroy Spun:#60 ~ #80

Polyester: #50 ~ #80

KNIT

Spun: #80 ~ #90
Tricot Polyester: #60 ~ #80

Jersey Spun: #60 ~ #80

Polyester: #60 ~ #80

Cotton: #60 ~ #80

Wool (woven, knit) Spun: #60 ~ #80

Polyester: #50 ~ #60

Woolly nylon

Woolly Polyester

#14/90, #11/80

#14/90, #11/80

#11/80

#14/90

#11/80

#14/90, #11/80

28. RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN CLOTH, THREAD AND NEEDLE

53

Item Specification

Sewing speed 1,300 spm maximum

Stitch length (feed amount) 1~4 mm (standard: rolled hemming 1-2, ordinary overedge N=2.5)

Differential feed ratio 1:0.6 ~ 1:2 (with differential feed machine)

Overedge stitch width Rolled hemming 1.5 mm, ordinary overedge 3.0 ~ 7.0 mm

(standard 4 mm)

Needle bar stroke 27 mm

Pressure foot rise 4.5 mm

Needle Hax1 (130/705H)

Number of threads 2~4

Machine dimensions (mm)

Width 360
Depth 290
Height 300

Weight (kg) 7.9 kgs

29. SPECIFICATION