Throughout this publication, Dangers, Warnings and Cautions (accompanied by the
International HAZARD Symbol
concerning a particular service or operation that may be hazardous if performed incorrectly
or carelessly. OBSERVE THEM CAREFULLY!
These Safety Alerts alone cannot eliminate the hazards that they signal. Strict compliance
to these special instructions when performing the service, plus Common Sense operation,
are major accident prevention measures.
) are used to alert the mechanic to special instructions
DANGER
DANGER - Immediate hazards which WILL result in severe personal injury or death.
WARNING
WARNING - Hazards or unsafe practices which COULD result in severe personal
injury or death.
CAUTION
Hazards or unsafe practices which could result in minor personal injury or product
or property damage.
Notice to Users of This Manual
This service manual has been written and published by the Service Department of Mercury
Marine to aid our dealers’ mechanics and company service personnel when servicing the
products described herein.
It is assumed that these personnel are familiar with the servicing procedures of these
products, or like or similar products manufactured and marketed by Mercury Marine, that
they have been trained in the recommended servicing procedures of these products which
includes the use of mechanics’ common hand tools and the special Mercury Marine or
recommended tools from other suppliers.
We could not possibly know of and advise the service trade of all conceivable procedures
by which a service might be performed and of the possible hazards and/or results of each
method. We have not undertaken any such wide evaluation. Therefore, anyone who uses
a service procedure and/or tool, which is not recommended by the manufacturer, first must
completely satisfy himself that neither his nor the products safety will be endangered by the
service procedure selected.
All information, illustrations and specifications contained in this manual are based on the
latest product information available at the time of publication. As required, revisions to this
manual will be sent to all dealers contracted by us to sell and/or service these products.
It should be kept in mind, while working on the product, that the electrical system and ignition
system are capable of violent and damaging short circuits or severe electrical shocks. When
performing any work where electrical terminals could possibly be grounded or touched by
the mechanic, the battery cables should be disconnected at the battery.
Any time the intake or exhaust openings are exposed during service they should be covered
to protect against accidental entrance of foreign material which could enter the cylinders and
cause extensive internal damage when the engine is started.
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page i
It is important to note, during any maintenance procedure replacement fasteners must have
the same measurements and strength as those removed. Numbers on the heads of the
metric bolts and on the surfaces of metric nuts indicate their strength. American bolts use
radial lines for this purpose, while most American nuts do not have strength markings.
Mismatched or incorrect fasteners can result in damage or malfunction, or possibly personal
injury. Therefore, fasteners removed should be saved for reuse in the same locations
whenever possible. Where the fasteners are not satisfactory for re-use, care should be
taken to select a replacement that matches the original.
Cleanliness and Care of Outboard Motor
A marine power product is a combination of many machined, honed, polished and lapped
surfaces with tolerances that are measured in the ten thousands of an inch/mm. When any
product component is serviced, care and cleanliness are important. Throughout this
manual, it should be understood that proper cleaning, and protection of machined surfaces
and friction areas is a part of the repair procedure. This is considered standard shop practice
even if not specifically stated.
Whenever components are removed for service, they should be retained in order. At the
time of installation, they should be installed in the same locations and with the same mating
surfaces as when removed.
Personnel should not work on or under an outboard which is suspended. Outboards should
be attached to work stands, or lowered to ground as soon as possible.
We reserve the right to make changes to this manual without prior notification.
Refer to dealer service bulletins for other pertinent information concerning the products
described in this manual.
Page ii90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
Service Manual Outline
Section 1 - General Information & Specifications
A - Specifications
B - Maintenance
C - General Information
D - Outboard Installation
Section 2 - Electrical and Ignition
A - Ignition System
B - Charging & Starting System
C - Timing/Synchronizing & Adjusting
D - Wiring Diagrams
Section 3 - Fuel System
A - Fuel Delivery System
B - Emissions
Section 4 - Powerhead
Section 5 - Mid-Section
A - Clamp/Swivel Brackets and Driveshaft Housing
B - Power Trim
Section 6 - Lower Unit
Section 7 - Attachments/Control Linkage
A - Throttle/Shift Linkage (Tiller Handle Shift Models)
B - Throttle/Shift Linkage (Side Shift Models)
C - Tiller Handle
Section 8 - Manual Starter
General Information
& Specifications
Electrical and Ignition
Fuel System
Powerhead
Mid-Section
Lower Unit
Attachments/
Control Linkage
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Manual Starter
8
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page iii
Propeller Information
For in-depth information on marine propellers and boat performance – written by marine
engineers – see your Authorized Dealer for the illustrated “What You Should Know About
Quicksilver Propellers... and Boat Performance Information” (Part No. 90-86144 92).
How To Use This Manual
The manual is divided into SECTIONS which represents major components and systems.
Some SECTIONS are further divided into PARTS. Each PART has a title page. A Table of
Contents for the particular PART is printed on the back of the title page.
SECTIONS and P ARTS are listed on the Service Manual Outline sheet which immediately
follows the cover of this book.
Page Numbering
Two number groups appear at the bottom of each page. The example, below, is
self-explanatory.
15 Sea Pro/Marathon
Taper/Out of Round Maximum
Bore Type
Two-Stoke Cycle – Cross Flow
209 cc (12.8 cu. in.)
209 cc (12.8 cu. in.)
209 cc (12.8 cu. in.)
209 cc (12.8 cu. in.)
262 cc (16.0 cu. in.)
262 cc (16.0 cu. in.)
262 cc (16.0 cu. in.)
262 cc (16.0 cu. in.)
262 cc (16.0 cu. in.)
262 cc (16.0 cu. in.
262 cc (16.0 cu. in.)
262 cc (16.0 cu. in.)
262 cc (16.0 cu. in.)
53.975 mm (2.125 in.)
53.975 mm (2.125 in.)
53.975 mm (2.125 in.)
53.975 mm (2.125 in.)
53.975 mm (2.125 in.)
60.325 mm (2.375 in.)
60.325 mm (2.375 in.)
60.325 mm (2.375 in.)
60.325 mm (2.375 in.)
60.325 mm (2.375 in.)
60.325 mm (2.375 in.)
60.325 mm (2.375 in.)
60.325 mm (2.375 in.)
60.325 mm (2.375 in.)
0.1016 mm (0.004 in.)
Cast Iron
STROKELength45.7 mm (1.800 in.)
CRANKSHAFT
CONNECTING
ROD
PISTON
Top Main Bearing Journal
Center Main Bearing Journal
Bottom Ball Bearing Journal
Connecting Rod Journal
Runout
Piston Pin End (I.D.)
Crankpin End (I.D.)
Piston Type
Ring End Gap
19.1 mm (0.7517 in.)
20.6 mm (0.8108 in.)
20.0 mm (0.7880 in.)
20.6 mm (0.8125 in.)
0.076 mm (0.003 in.)
20.8 mm (0.8195 in.)
27.0 mm (1.0635 in.)
Aluminum
0.25 mm - 0.46 mm
(0.010 in. - 0.018 in.)
Reed Stand Open (Maximum)
REEDS
All Models
Reed Stop Opening (Maximum)
All Models
Page 1A-290-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
0.178 mm (0.007 in.)
7.54 mm (0.296 in.)
SPECIFICATIONS
GEAR
HOUSING
MID
SECTION
FUEL
SYSTEM
Gear Ratio
Gearcase Capacity
Lubricant Type
Forward Gear - Tooth count - Type
Pinion Gear - Tooth count - Type
Pinion Height
Forward Gear Backlash
Reverse Gear Backlash
Water Pressure
With Thermostat
– @ W.O.T (5000 RPM)
– @ Idle (750 RPM)
W/O Thermostat
– @ W.O.T (5000 RPM)
– @ Idle (750 RPM)
Transom Height Short Shaft
Long Shaft
Extra Long Shaft
Steering Pivot Range
Tilt Pin Positions
Total Tilt Angle
Allowable Transom Thickness
1. Check that lanyard stop switch stops the engine.
2. Visually inspect the fuel system for deterioration or leaks.
3. Check outboard for tightness on transom.
4. Check steering system for binding or loose components.
5. Visually check steering link rod fasteners for proper tightness.
6. Check propeller blades for damage.
After Each Use
1. Flush out the outboard cooling system if operating in salt or polluted water.
2. Wash off all salt deposits and flush out the exhaust outlet of the propeller and gearcase
with fresh water if operating in salt water.
Every 100 Hours of Use or Once Yearly, Whichever Occurs First
1. Lubricate all lubrication points. Lubricate more frequently when used in salt water.
MAINTENANCE
2. Inspect and clean spark plugs.
3. Check fuel line filter for contaminants.
4. Check carburetor adjustments, if required.
5. Check corrosion control anodes. Check more frequently when used in salt water.
6. Drain and replace gearcase lubricant.
7. Lubricate splines on the drive shaft.
8. Electric start models – Inspect battery.
9. Remote control models – Check control cable adjustments.
10. Remove engine deposits with Power Tune Engine Cleaner.
11. Check tightness of bolts, nuts, and other fasteners.
12. Clean fuel tank pick up filter.
Every 300 Hours of Use or Three Years
1. Replace water pump impeller (more often if overheating occurs or reduced water
pressure is noted).*
∗
These items should be serviced by an authorized dealer.
∗
∗
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 1B-3
MAINTENANCE
Flushing The Cooling System
Flush the internal water passages of the outboard with fresh water after each use in salt,
polluted, or muddy water. This will help prevent a buildup of deposits from clogging the
internal water passages.
Use a Quicksilver accessory or equivalent flushing attachment.
To avoid possible injury when flushing, remove the propeller. Refer to Propeller
Replacement.
1. Remove propeller (refer to Propeller Replacement). Install the flushing attachment so
the rubber cups fit tightly over the cooling water intake holes.
WARNING
CAUTION
Never start or run your outboard (even momentarily) without water circulating
through the cooling water intake in the gearcase to prevent damage to the water
pump (running dry) or overheating of the engine.
2. Attach a water hose to the flushing attachment. Turn on the water and adjust the flow
so water is leaking around the rubber cups to ensure the engine receives an adequate
supply of cooling water.
3. Start the engine and run it at idle speed in neutral shift position.
4. Adjust water flow if necessary so excess water continues leaking out from around the
rubber cups to ensure the engine is receiving an adequate supply of cooling water.
5. Check for a steady stream of water flowing out of the water pump indicator hole.
Continue flushing the outboard for 3 to 5 minutes, carefully monitoring water supply at
all times.
6. Stop the engine, turn off the water, and remove the flushing attachment. Reinstall the
propeller.
Page 1B-490-827242R20 FEBRUARY 2003
Fuel System
Avoid serious injury or death from gasoline fire or explosion. Carefully follow all
fuel system service instructions. Always stop the engine and DO NOT smoke or
allow open flames or sparks in the area while servicing any part of the fuel system.
Before servicing any part of the fuel system, stop engine and disconnect the battery . Drain
the fuel system completely. Use an approved container to collect and store fuel. Wipe up
any spillage immediately. Material used to contain spillage must be disposed of in an
approved receptacle. Any fuel system service must be performed in a well ventilated area.
Inspect any completed service work for sign of fuel leakage.
Fuel Line Inspection
Visually inspect the fuel line and primer bulb for cracks, swelling, leaks, hardness or other
signs of det e r i o r a t i o n o r damage. If any of these conditions are found, the fuel line or primer
bulb must be replaced.
Engine Fuel Filter
Inspect the sight bowl for water accumulation and inspect the filter element for sediment.
Clean filter as follows.
MAINTENANCE
WARNING
REMOVAL
INSTALLATION
1. Hold onto the filter cover cover to prevent it from turning.
2. Turn off the sight bowl.
3. Pull out the filter element and wash it with cleaning solvent.
4. Push the open end of the filter element, into cover.
5. Place the O-ring seal into the sight bowl and screw the sight bowl hand tight into the
cover.
a
b
c
d
a-Filter cover
b-Filter
c-O-ring
d-Sight bowl
6. Visually inspect for fuel leakage around the sight bowl by squeezing the primer bulb until
firm, forcing fuel into the sight bowl.
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 1B-5
MAINTENANCE
Corrosion Control Anode
The outboard has a corrosion control anode installed to the gear case. An anode helps
protect the outboard against galvanic corrosion by sacrificing its metal to be slowly eroded
instead of the outboard metals.
1. The anode requires periodic inspection especially in salt water which will accelerate the
erosion. To maintain this corrosion protection, always replace the anode before it is
completely eroded. Never paint or apply a protective coating on the anode as this will
reduce effectiveness of the anode.
a
a-Anode
Spark Plug Inspection
Inspect spark plugs at the recommended intervals.
1. Remove the spark plug leads by twisting the rubber boots slightly and pull off.
2. Remove the spark plugs to inspect and clean. Replace spark plug if electrode is worn
or the insulator is rough, cracked, broken, blistered or fouled.
3. Set the spark plug gap. See Specification Chart in General Information Section.
4. Before reinstalling spark plugs, clean away dirt on the spark plug seats. Install plugs
finger tight, and tighten 1/4 turn or torque to 27 N·m (20 lb. ft.).
Page 1B-690-827242R20 FEBRUARY 2003
MAINTENANCE
Battery Inspection
The battery should be inspected at periodic intervals to ensure proper engine starting
capability.
IMPORTANT: Read the safety and maintenance instructions which accompany your
battery.
1. Turn off the engine before servicing the battery.
2. Add water as necessary to keep the battery full.
3. Make sure the battery is secure against movement.
4. Battery cable terminals should be clean, tight, and correctly installed. Positive to positive
and negative to negative.
5. Make sure the battery is equipped with a nonconductive shield to prevent accidental
shorting of battery terminals.
Fuse Replacement – Electric Start Remote Control Models
The electric starting circuit is protected from overload by a SFE 20 AMP fuse. If the fuse is
blown, the electric starter motor will not operate. Locate and correct the cause of the
overload. If the cause is not found, the fuse may blow again. Replace the fuse with a fuse
of the same rating.
1. Replace with a new SFE 20 AMP fuse.
a
a-SFE 20 amp fuse
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 1B-7
MAINTENANCE
Lubrication Points
1. Lubricate the following with 2-4-C with Teflon or Special Lubricant 101.
•Tilt lock pins (Make sure this pin is free to push in and out).
•Lubricate along the entire tilt pin track on both transom brackets.
a
a
b
a-Tilt lock pins
b-Tilt pin track
•Lubricate the throttle and shaft cables, moving components and pivot locations.
WARNING
The end of the steering cable must be fully retracted into the outboard tilt tube
before adding lubricant. Adding lubricant to steering cable when fully extended
could cause steering cable to become hydraulically locked. An hydraulically locked
steering cable will cause loss of steering control, possibly resulting in serious
injury or death.
•Rotate steering wheel (if so equipped) to fully retract the steering cable end into
the outboard tilt tube. Lubricate steering cable through grease fitting and cable
end.
a
a-Grease fitting
b-Steering cable end
b
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 1B-9
MAINTENANCE
2. Lubricate the following with light weight oil.
•Steering Link Rod Pivot Points.
3. Lubricate the following with anti-corrosion grease or 2-4-C with Teflon.
•Coat the entire propeller shaft with lubricant to prevent the propeller hub from
corroding to the shaft.
Gearcase Lubrication
Gearcase Lubricant Capacity
Gear Case RatioCapacity
2.00:1200.0 ml (6.8 fl. oz.)
Draining Gearcase
When adding or changing gearcase lubricant, visually check for the presence of water in
the lubricant. If water is present, it may have settled to the bottom and will drain out prior
to the lubricant, or it may be mixed with the lubricant, giving it a milky colored appearance.
If water is noticed, have the gearcase checked by your dealer. Water in the lubricant may
result in premature bearing failure or, in freezing temperatures, will turn to ice and damage
the gearcase.
Whenever you remove the fill/drain plug, examine the magnetic end for metal particles. A
small amount of metal filings or fine metal particles indicates normal gear wear. An
excessive amount of metal filings or larger particles (chips) may indicate abnormal gear
wear and should be checked by an authorized dealer.
Page 1B-1090-827242R20 FEBRUARY 2003
1. Place outboard in a vertical operating position.
2. Place drain pan below outboard.
3. Remove fill/drain plug and vent plug and drain lubricant.
a-Fill/Drain Plug
b-Vent plug
Checking Lubricant Level and Refilling Gearcase
1. Place outboard in a vertical operating position.
MAINTENANCE
bab
2. Remove vent plug from vent hole.
3. Place lubricant tube into the fill hole and add lubricant until it appears at the vent hole.
4. Stop adding lubricant. Install the vent plug and sealing washer before removing the
lubricant tube.
b
a
a-Fill/Drain plug
b-Vent plug
5. Remove lubricant tube and reinstall cleaned fill/drain plug and sealing washer.
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 1B-11
MAINTENANCE
Storage Preparations
Fuel System
IMPORTANT: Gasoline containing alcohol (ethanol or methanol) can cause a
formation of acid during storage and can damage the fuel system. If the gasoline
being used contains alcohol, It is advisable to drain as much of the remaining
gasoline as possible from the fuel tank, remote fuel line, and engine fuel system.
Fill the fuel system (tank, hoses, fuel pumps, and fuel injection systems) with treated
(stabilized) fuel to help prevent formation of varnish and gum. Proceed with following
instructions.
1. Portable fuel tank – Pour the required amount of fuel system/stabilizer concentrate
(follow instructions on container) into fuel tank. Tip fuel tank back and forth to mix
stabilizer with the fuel.
2. Permanently Installed Fuel Tank – Pour the required amount of fuel system/stabilizer
concentrate (follow instructions on container) into a separate container and mix with
approximately one liter (one quart) of gasoline. Pour mixture into fuel tank.
3. Place the outboard in water or connect flushing attachment. Run the engine for ten
minutes to allow treated fuel to fill the fuel system.
Protecting External Engine Components
1. Lubricate all outboard c omponents l isted i n t he Inspection a nd M aintenance Schedule.
2. Touch up any paint nicks.
3. Spray Corrosion Guard on external metal surfaces (except corrosion control anodes).
Protecting Internal Engine Components
NOTE: Before performing Steps 1 and 2, make sure the fuel system has been prepared for
storage.
1. Place the outboard in water or connect flushing attachment. Start the engine and let it
run in neutral to warm up.
2. With engine running at fast idle, stop the fuel flow by disconnecting the remote fuel line.
When engine begins to stall, quickly spray Storage Seal Rust Inhibitor into carburetor
until engine stops from lack of fuel.
3. Remove the spark plugs and inject a five second spray of Storage Seal Rust Inhibitor
around the inside of each cylinder.
4. Rotate the flywheel manually several times to distribute the Storage Seal in the
cylinders. Reinstall spark plugs.
Gearcase
Drain and refill the gearcase lubricant. Refer to Refilling Gearcase
Page 1B-1290-827242R20 FEBRUARY 2003
Positioning Outboard for Storage
Store outboard in an upright position to allow water to drain out of outboard.
If outboard is stored tilted up in freezing temperature, trapped cooling water or rain
water that may have entered the propeller exhaust outlet in the gearcase could
freeze and cause damage to the outboard.
Battery Storage
1. Follow the battery manufacturers instructions for storage and recharging.
2. Remove the battery from the boat and check water level. Recharge if necessary.
3. Store the battery in a cool, dry place.
4. Periodically check the water level and recharge the battery during storage.
Salt Water Submersion1C-5. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Serial Number Location
The Outboard serial number is located on the lower starboard side of the engine block. A
serial number is also located on the starboard side of the swivel bracket.
a-Serial number
b-Model year
c-Model description
d-Year manufactured
e-Certified Europe insignia
XX
d
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 1C-1
GENERAL INFORMATION
Conditions Affecting Performance
Weather
Rated hp
Horsepower Loss
Due to Atmosphere
Summer hp
Conditions
Secondary Loss Due to
Propeller Becoming To Large
for Summer Horsepower
RPM Drop
Due to Weather
ENGINE RPM
Rated RPM
It is a known fact that weather conditions exert a profound effect on power output of internal
combustion engines. Therefore, established horsepower ratings refer to the power that the
engine will produce at its rated RPM under a specific combination of weather conditions.
Corporations internationally have settled on adoption of I.S.O. (International Standards
Organization) engine test standards, as set forth in I.S.O. 3046 standardizing the
computation of horsepower from data obtained on the dynamometer. All values are
corrected to the power that the engine will produce at sea level, at 30% relative humidity,
at 25° C (77° F) temperature and a barometric pressure of 29.61 inches of mercury.
Summer conditions of high temperature, low barometric pressure and high humidity all
combine to reduce the engine power. This, in turn, is reflected in decreased boat speeds--as
much as 3 or 5 Km per-hour (2 or 3 miles-per-hour) in some cases. (Refer to previous chart.)
Nothing will regain this speed for the boater, but the coming of cool, dry weather.
In pointing out the practical consequences of weather effects, an engine--running on a hot,
humid summer day--may encounter a loss of as much as 14% of the horsepower it would
produce on a dry, brisk spring or fall day. The horsepower, that any internal combustion
engine produces, depends upon the density of the air that it consumes, and in turn, this
density is dependent upon the temperature of the air, its barometric pressure and water
vapor (or humidity) content.
Accompanying this weather-inspired loss of power is a second but more subtle loss. At
rigging time in early spring, the engine was equipped with a propeller that allowed the engine
to turn within its recommended RPM range at full throttle. With the coming of the summer
weather and the consequent drop in available horsepower, this propeller will, in effect,
become too large. Consequently, the engine operates at less than its recommended RPM.
Page 1C-290-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
Due to the horsepower/RPM characteristics of an engine, this will result in further loss of
horsepower at the propeller with another decrease in boat speed. This secondary loss,
however, can be regained by switching to a smaller pitch propeller that allows the engine
to again run at recommended RPM.
For boaters to realize optimum engine performance under changing weather conditions, it
is essential that the engine have the proper propeller to allow it to operate at or near the top
end of the recommended maximum RPM range at wide-open-throttle with a normal boat
load.
Not only does this allow the engine to develop full power, but equally important is the fact
that the engine also will be operating in an RPM range that discourages damaging
detonation. This, of course, enhances overall reliability and durability of the engine.
Boat
WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION
1. Proper positioning of the weight inside the boat (persons and gear) has a significant
effect on the boat’s performance, for example:
a. Shifting weight to the rear (stern)
(1.)Generally increases top speed.
(2.)If in excess, can cause the boat to porpoise.
GENERAL INFORMATION
BOTTOM
(3.)Can make the bow bounce excessively in choppy water.
(4.)Will increase the danger of the following - wave splashing into the boat when
coming off plane.
b. Shifting weight to the front (bow)
(1.)Improves ease of planing off.
(2.)Generally improves rough water ride.
(3.)If excessive, can make the boat veer left and right (bow steer).
For maximum speed, a boat bottom should be nearly a flat plane where it contacts the water
and particularly straight and smooth in fore-and-aft direction.
1. Hook: Exists when bottom is concave in fore-and-aft direction when viewed from the
side. When boat is planing, hook causes more lift on bottom near transom and allows
bow to drop, thus greatly increasing wetted surface and reducing boat speed. Hook
frequently is caused by supporting boat too far ahead of transom while hauling on a
trailer or during storage.
2. Rocker: The reverse of hook and much less common. Rocker exists if bottom is convex
in fore-and-aft direction when viewed from the side, and boat has strong tendency to
porpoise.
3. Surface Roughness: Moss, barnacles, etc., on boat or corrosion of outboard’s gear
housing increase skin friction and cause speed loss. Clean surfaces when necessary.
WATER ABSORPTION
It is imperative that all through hull fasteners be coated with a quality marine sealer at time
of installation. Water intrusion into the transom core and/or inner hull will result in additional
boat weight (reduced boat performance), hull decay and eventual structural failure.
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 1C-3
GENERAL INFORMATION
CAVITATION
Engine
DETONATION
Cavitation is caused by water vapor bubbles forming either from a sharp edge or angle on
the gear case or from an irregularity in the propeller blade itself. These vapor bubbles flow
back and collapse when striking the surface of the propeller blade resulting in the erosion
of the propeller blade surface. If allowed to continue, eventual blade failure (breakage) will
occur.
Detonation in a 2- cycle engine resembles the pinging heard in an automobile engine. It can
be otherwise described as a tin-like rattling or plinking sound.
Detonation is an explosion of an unburned portion of the fuel/air charge after the spark plug
has fired. Detonation creates severe shock waves in the engine, and these shock waves
often find or create a weakness: The dome of a piston, cylinder head/gasket, piston rings
or piston ring lands, piston pin and roller bearings.
A few of the most common causes of detonation in a marine 2-cycle application are as
follows:
•Over-advanced ignition timing.
•Use of low octane gasoline.
•Propeller pitch too high (engine RPM below recommended maximum range).
•Lean fuel mixture at or near wide-open-throttle.
•Spark plugs (heat range too hot - incorrect reach - cross-firing).
•Combustion chamber/piston deposits (result in higher compression ratio).
Detonation usually can be prevented if:
1. The engine is correctly set up.
2. Diligent maintenance is applied to combat the detonation causes.
Damaged Piston Resulting from Detonation
Page 1C-490-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
51115
Following Complete Submersion
Submerged While Running
When an engine is submerged while running, the possibility of internal engine damage is
greatly increased. If, after engine is recovered and with spark plugs removed, engine fails
to turn over freely when turning flywheel, the possibility of internal damage (bent connecting
rod and/or bent crankshaft) exists. If this is the case, the powerhead must be disassembled.
Fresh Water Submersion
1. Recover engine as quickly as possible.
2. Remove cowling.
3. Flush exterior of outboard with fresh water to remove mud, weeds, etc. DO NOT attempt
to start engine if sand has entered powerhead, as powerhead will be severely damaged.
Disassemble powerhead if necessary to clean components.
4. Remove spark plugs and get as much water as possible out of powerhead. Most water
can be eliminated by placing engine in a horizontal position (with spark plug holes down)
and rotating flywheel.
5. Pour alcohol into carburetor throats (alcohol will absorbed water). Again rotate flywheel.
GENERAL INFORMATION
6. Turn engine over and pour alcohol into spark plug openings and rotate flywheel.
7. Turn engine over (place spark plug openings down) and pour engine oil into throat of
carburetors while rotating flywheel to distribute oil throughout crankcase.
8. Again turn engine over and pour approximately one teaspoon of engine oil into each
spark plug opening. Again rotate flywheel to distribute oil in cylinders.
9. Remove and clean carburetors and fuel pump assembly.
10. Dry all wiring and electrical components using compressed air.
11. Disassemble the engine starter motor and dry the brush contacts, armature and other
corrodible parts.
12. Reinstall spark plugs, carburetors and fuel pump.
13. Attempt to start engine, using a fresh fuel source. If engine starts, it should be run for
at least one hour to eliminate any water in engine.
14. If engine fails to start, determine cause (fuel, electrical or mechanical). Engine should
be run within 2 hours after recovery of outboard from water, or serious internal damage
may occur. If unable to start engine in this period, disassemble engine and clean all
parts. Apply oil as soon as possible.
Salt Water Submersion
Due to the corrosive effect of salt water on internal engine components, complete
disassembly is necessary before any attempt is made to start the engine.
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 1C-5
GENERAL INFORMATION
Propeller Selection
For in-depth information on marine propellers and boat performance see your Authorized
Dealer for the illustrated What You Should Know About Quicksilver Propellers... andBoat Performance Information (Part No. 90-86144 92).
For best all around performance from your outboard/boat combination, select a propeller
that allows the engine to operate in the upper half of the recommended full throttle RPM
range with the boat normally loaded (refer to Section 1A - Specifications). This RPM range
allows for better acceleration while maintaining maximum boat speed.
If changing conditions cause the RPM to drop below the recommended range (such as
warmer, more humid weather, operation at higher elevations, increased boat load or a dirty
boat bottom/gear case) a propeller change or cleaning may be required to maintain
performance and ensure the outboard’s durability.
Check full-throttle RPM using an accurate tachometer with the engine trimmed out to a
balanced-steering condition (steering effort equal in both directions) without causing the
propeller to break loose.
Refer to Mercury Precision Parts/Quicksilver Accessory Guide for a complete list of
available propellers.
1. Select a propeller that will allow the engine to operate at or near the top of the
recommended full t h r o ttle RPM range (refer to Section 1A - Specifications preceding)
with a normal load. Maximum engine speed (RPM) for propeller selection exists when
boat speed is maximum and trim is minimum for that speed. (High RPM, caused by an
excessive trim angle, should not be used in determining correct propeller.) Normally,
there is a 150-350 RPM change between propeller pitches.
2. If full throttle operation is below the recommended range, the propeller must be changed
to one with a lower pitch to prevent loss of performance and possible engine damage.
3. After initial propeller installation, the following common conditions may require that the
propeller be changed to a lower pitch:
a. Warmer weather and great humidity will cause an RPM loss.
b. Operating in a higher elevation causes an RPM loss.
c. Operating with a damaged propeller or a dirty boat bottom or gear housing will cause
an RPM loss.
d. Operation with an increased load (additional passengers, equipment, pulling skiers,
etc.).
Page 1C-690-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
Propeller Removal/Installation
If the propeller shaft is rotated while the engine is in gear, there is the possibility that
the engine will crank over and start. To prevent this type of accidental engine
starting and possible serious injury caused from being struck by a rotating
propeller, always shift outboard to neutral position and remove spark plug leads
when you are servicing the propeller.
1. Shift outboard to neutral position.
2. Remove the spark plug leads to prevent engine from starting.
3. Place a block of wood between gear case and propeller to hold propeller and remove
propeller nut.
GENERAL INFORMATION
WARNING
N
N
4. Pull propeller straight off shaft. If propeller is seized to the shaft and cannot be removed,
have the propeller removed by an authorized dealer.
5. Coat the propeller shaft with Anti-Corrosion Grease or 2-4-C with Teflon.
IMPORT ANT: T o prevent the propeller hub from corroding and seizing to the propeller
shaft, especially in salt water, always apply a coat of the recommended lubricant to
the entire propeller shaft at the recommended maintenance intervals and also each
time the propeller is removed.
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 1C-7
GENERAL INFORMATION
6. Install forward thrust hub, propeller, rear thrust hub and propeller nut onto the shaft.
c
d
a
b
a-Forward thrust hub
b-Propeller
c-Rear thrust hub
d-Propeller nut
7. Place a block of wood between gear case and propeller and tighten propeller nut.
4. Crank the engine over until the compression reading peaks.
5. Check and record compression of each cylinder. The difference in compression
readings between each cylinder should not vary more than 15%. If compression varies
by more than 15% or compression for both cylinders is less than 685kPa (100psi), the
powerhead should be disassembled and inspected.
6. Compression check is important because an engine with low or uneven compression
cannot be tuned successfully to give peak performance. It is essential, therefore, that
improper compression be corrected before proceeding with an engine tuneup.
7. Cylinder scoring: If powerhead shows any indication of overheating, such as discolored
or scorched paint, visually inspect cylinders for scoring or other damage. Refer to
Avoid serious injury from flying debris. Avoid serious injury from airborne
particles. Use eye and breathing protection with proper ventilation.
PROPELLERS
1. Sand the entire area to be painted with 3M 120 Regalite Polycut or coarse Scotch-Brite,
disc or belts.
2. Feather edges of all broken paint edges. Try not to sand through the primer.
3. Clean the surface to be painted using PPG Industries DX330 Wax and Grease Remover
or equivalent (Xylene or M.E.K.).
4. If bare metal has been exposed, use Mercury/Quicksilver’s Light Gray Primer.
5. Allow a minimum of 1 hour dry time and no more than 1 week before applying the finish
coat.
6. Apply the finish coat using Mercury/Quicksilver’s EDP Propeller Black.
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 1C-9
GENERAL INFORMATION
GEAR HOUSINGS
The following procedures should be used in refinishing gear housings. This procedure will
provide the most durable paint system available in the field. The materials recommended
are of high quality and approximate marine requirements. The following procedure will
provide a repaint job that compares with a properly applied factory paint finish. It is
recommended that the listed materials be purchased from a local Ditzler Automotive Finish
Supply Outlet. The minimum package quantity of each material shown following is sufficient
to refinish several gear housings.
Procedure:
1. Wash gear housing with a muriatic acid base cleaner to remove any type of marine
2. Wash gear housing with soap and water, then rinse.
3. Sand blistered area with 3M 180 grit sandpaper or P180 Gold Film Disc to remove paint
4. Clean gear housing thoroughly with (DX-330) wax and grease remover.
5. Spot repair surfaces where bare metal is exposed with (DX-503) alodine treatment.
IMPORT ANT: Do not use any type of aerosol spray paints as the paint will not properly
adhere to the surface nor will the coating be sufficiently thick to resist future paint
blistering.
growth, and rinse with water, if necessary.
blisters only. Feather edge all broken paint edges.
6. Mix epoxy chromate primer (DP-90LF) with equal part catalyst (DP-402LF) per
manufacturers instructions, allowing proper induction period for permeation of the
epoxy primer and catalyst.
7. Allow a min i mum of one hour drying time and no more than one week before top coating
assemblies.
8. Use Ditzler Urethane DU9300 for Mercury Black, DU34334 for Mariner Grey, and
DU35466 for F o r c e Charcoal, and DU33414 for Sea Ray White. Catalyze all three colors
with Ditzler DU5 catalyst mixed 1:1 ratio. Reduce with solvents per Ditzler label.
CAUTION
Be sure to comply with instructions on the label for ventilation and respirators.
Using a spray gun, apply one half to one mil even film thickness. Let dry, flash off
for five minutes and apply another even coat of one half to one mil film thickness.
This urethane paint will dry to the touch in a matter of hours, but will remain
sensitive to scratches and abrasions for a few days.
9. The type of spray gun used will determine the proper reduction ratio of the paint.
IMPORTANT: Do not paint sacrificial zinc trim tab or zinc anode.
10. Cut out a cardboard plug for trim tab pocket to keep paint off of mating surface to
maintain good continuity circuitry between trim tab and gear housing.
Page 1C-1090-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
Decal Application
Decal Removal
1. Mark decal location before removal to assure proper alignment of new decal.
2. Carefully soften decal and decal adhesive with a heat gun or heat blower while removing
old decal.
3. Clean decal contact area with a 1:1 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water.
4. Thoroughly dry decal contact area and check for a completely cleaned surface.
Instructions for Wet Application
NOTE: The following decal installation instructions are provided for a wet installation. All
decals should be applied wet.
TOOLS REQUIRED
1. Plastic Squeegee*
2. Stick Pin
3. Dish Washing liquid detergent without ammonia. Do not use a soap that contains
petroleum based solvents.
GENERAL INFORMATION
** Automotive body filler squeegee.
SERVICE TIP: Placement of decals using the wet application will allow time to
position decal. Read entire installation instructions on this technique before
proceeding.
TEMPERATURE
IMPORTANT: Installation of vinyl decals should not be attempted while in direct
sunlight. Air and surface temperature should be between 15°C (60°F) and 38°C
(100°F) for best application.
SURFACE PREPARATION
IMPORT ANT: Do not use a soap or any petroleum based solvents to clean application
surface.
Clean entire application surface with mild dish washing liquid and water. Rinse surface
thoroughly with clean water.
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 1C-11
GENERAL INFORMATION
DECAL APPLICATION
1. Mix 16 ml (1/2 ounce) of dish washing liquid in 4 literes (1 gallon) of cool water to use
as wetting solution.
NOTE: Leave protective masking, if present, on the face of decal until final steps of decal
installation. This will ensure that the vinyl decal keeps it’s shape during installation.
2. Place the decal face down on a clean work surface and remove the paper backing from
adhesive side of decal.
3. Using a spray bottle, flood the entire adhesive side of the decal with the pre-mixed
wetting solution.
4. Flood area where the decal will be positioned with wetting solution.
5. Position pre-wetted decal on wetted surface and slide into position.
6. Starting at the center of the decal, lightly squeegee out the air bubbles and wetting
solution with overlapping strokes to the outer edge of the decal. Continue going over the
decal surface until all wrinkles are gone and adhesive bonds to the cowl surface.
7. Wipe decal surface with soft paper towel or cloth.
8. Wait 10 - 15 minutes.
9. Starting at one corner, carefully and slowly pull the masking off the decal surface at a
180° angle.
NOTE: To remove any remaining bubbles, pierce the decal at one end of the bubble with
stick pin and press out the entrapped air or wetting solution with your thumb (moving toward
the puncture).
Page 1C-1290-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
OUTBOARD INSTALLATION
GENERAL INFORMATION & SPECIFICATIONS
Section 1D – Outboard Installation
Table of Contents
Notice to Installer and Owner1D-1. . . . . . . . . . . . .
This manual as well as safety labels posted on the outboard use the following safety alerts
to draw your attention to special safety instructions that should be followed.
DANGER – Immediate hazards which will result in severe personal injury or death.
WARNING – Hazards or unsafe practices which could result in severe personal
injury or death.
CAUTION – Hazards or unsafe practices which could result in minor injury or
product or property damage.
Boat Horsepower Capacity
U.S. COAST GUARD CAPACITY
MAXIMUM HORSEPOWER XXX
MAXIMUM PERSON
CAPACITY (POUNDS) XXX
MAXIMUM WEIGHT
CAPACITY XXX
Do not overpower or overload your boat. Most boats will carry a required capacity plate
indicating the maximum acceptable power and load as determined by the manufacturer
following certain federal guidelines. If in doubt, contact your dealer or the boat manufacturer.
DANGER
WARNING
CAUTION
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 1D-1
OUTBOARD INSTALLATION
WARNING
Using an outboard that exceeds the maximum horsepower limit of a boat can: 1)
cause loss of boat control 2) place too much weight at the transom altering the
designed flotation characteristics of the boat or 3) cause the boat to break apart
particularly around the transom area. Overpowering a boat can result in serious
injury, death, or boat damage.
Outboard Remote Control
The remote control connected to your outboard must be equipped with a start in gear
protection device. This prevents the engine from starting when the outboard is in gear.
WARNING
Avoid serious injury or death from a sudden unexpected acceleration when starting
your engine. The design of this outboard requires that the remote control used with
it must have a built in start in gear protection device.
Selecting Accessories For The Outboard
Mercury Marine Quicksilver Accessories have been specifically designed and tested for
your outboard.
Mercury Marine Quicksilver accessories are available from Mercury Marine dealers.
Some accessories not manufactured or sold by Mercury Marine are not designed to be
safely used with your outboard or outboard operating system. Acquire and read the
installation, operation, and maintenance manuals for all your selected accessories.
Selecting Steering Cables and Remote Control Cables
Install steering mount and steering wheel in accordance with installation instructions that
accompany each.
IMPORTANT: Steering cable must be correct length. Sharp bends on too-short of a
cable result in kinks; too-long of a cable require unnecessary bends and/or loops.
Both conditions place extra stress on the cable.
Refer to Mercury Precision Parts/Quicksilver Accessories Guide to determine correct
length of steering cable.
Page 1D-290-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
Installing Outboard
1. Measure the t ransom height of your boat. The boat bottom should be aligned or be within
25 mm (1 in.) above the anti-ventilation plate of the outboard.
2. Place outboard on center line of transom.
a
a-Anti-Ventilation Plate
3. Tighten transom clamp handles.
4. To prevent loss of outboard overboard, fasten outboard by drilling two 7.9 mm (5/16 in.)
holes through the transom using transom clamp holes as a template. Fasten with two
bolts, flat washers and locknuts. Use a marine waterproofing sealer in holes and around
bolts to make the installation water tight.
OUTBOARD INSTALLATION
0 - 25 mm
(0 - 1 in)
a
a-Bolts (2)
b-Flat washers (2)
c-Locknuts (2)
Steering Cable and Steering Link Rod Installation
Installing Ride Guide Steering Cable to the Outboard
IMPORT ANT: Before installing steering cable into tilt tube, lubricate entire cable end
with 2-4-C with Teflon.
1. Lubricate the entire cable end.
95
c
b
95
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 1D-3
2-4-C with Teflon
OUTBOARD INSTALLATION
2. Insert steer i n g cable end through outboard tilt tube and secure steering cable to tilt tube
with steering cable attaching nut as shown. Tighten to specified torque.
a-Cable end
b-Attaching nut
Steering Cable Seal
1. Place a mark on tilt tube 6.4 mm (.250 in.) from port end of tube. Slide plastic spacer,
O-ring and cap over steering cable end, to tilt tube on engine.
b
Steering Cable Attaching Nut Torque
47.5 Nm (35 lb-ft)
6.4mm
(.250 in.)
a
53400
a
e
c
b
d
a-Mark
b-Spacer
c-O-ring
d-Cap
e-Spacer
2. Thread cap up to the 6.4 mm (1/4 in.) mark.
b
a
53069
a-Cap
b-6.4 mm (.250 in.) mark
53067
Page 1D-490-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
Steering Link Rod Installation
IMPORTANT: The steering link rod that connects the steering cable to the engine
must be fastened using special self locking nuts. These locknuts must never be
replaced with common nuts (non-locking) as they will work loose and vibrate off
freeing the link rod to disengage.
Disengagement of a steering link rod can result in the boat taking a full, sudden,
sharp turn. This potentially violent action can cause occupants to be thrown
overboard exposing them to serious injury or death.
After installation is complete (and before operating outboard), check that boat will
turn right when steering wheel is turned right and that boat will turn left when
steering wheel is turned left. Check steering through full range (left and right) and
at all tilt angles to assure interference-free movement.
1. Secure steering bracket to engine. Tighten nut to specified torque.
2. Secure steering link rod between engine steering bracket and steering cable end.
a
95
h
i
95
b
2-4-C with Teflon
95
c
j
95
d
e
f
g
a-Steering link arm
b-Ball joint (flat end facing up)
c-Steering bracket
d-Spacer - 9.5 mm (3/8 in.)
e-Rubber spacer
f-Flat washer 20.6 mm (13/16 in.)
g-Locknut. Tighten to specified torque.
h-Flat washer [15.9 mm (5/8 in.)] (2)
i-Spacer
j-Locknut. Tighten until nut seats, then back off 1/4-turn
Locknut Torque
27 Nm (20 lb-ft)
Page 1D-690-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
OUTBOARD INSTALLATION
Remote Control Installation
Refer to Mercury Precision Parts/Quicksilver Accessory Guide for appropriate electric
or manual remote control. Use instructions provided with control for proper installation.
Shift and Throttle Cable Installation to the Outboard
IMPORTANT: Install control cables to remote control and mount control before
attaching control cables to outboard.
Install throttle and shift cables to remote control and mount control as outlined in installation
instructions which accompany the remote control.
NOTE: Attach shift cable to outboard first. Shift cable is the first cable to move when remote
control handle is advanced from NEUTRAL position toward in-gear position.
Refer to the Mercury Precision Parts/Quicksilver Accessory Guide to determine correct
length of remote control cables.
IMPORTANT: Remote control cables must be the correct length. Sharp bends on
too-short cables result in kinks. Too-long cables require unnecessary bends and/or
loops. Both conditions place extra stress on the cables and control.
INSTALLING CABLE RETAINERS ON CABLES
1. Slip cable retainer over the threaded metal end of control cables.
a
a-Retainer
2. Push cable retainer onto control cables so that the pointed ends are on the top side of
hole.
3. Rotate cable retainer 90° to position end of retainer over hole.
a
b
a-Retainer
b-Pointed ends
c-Hole
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 1D-7
c
OUTBOARD INSTALLATION
4. Install cable ties on control cables.
NOTE: Cable ties will prevent retainers from slipping off cables whenever cables are
removed from engine.
5. Place end of control cables on anchor pins and lock in place with retainers.
a-Cable tie
b-Pin
SHIFT CABLE INSTALLATION
1. If remote control has a NEUTRAL lock release, secure the release in the depressed
position using a piece of tape. The true NEUTRAL detent can now be located.
a
b
WARNING
To avoid accidental starting which could result in personal injury, remove and
isolate high tension spark leads BEFORE working near propeller.
b
a
53258
a-Neutral lock release
b-Tape
Page 1D-890-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
2. Wrap rubber control cable grommet around shift cable.
a
b
53212
a-Grommet
b-Cable
3. Push grommet with cable into opening in starboard bottom cowl.
a
OUTBOARD INSTALLATION
53249
a-Grommet
4. Manually shift outboard into neutral position (propeller will rotate freely in both
directions).
5. Adjust barrel on shift cable to attain the same distance between barrel and hole in end
of shift cable as exists between barrel recess of control cable anchor bracket and shift
lever pin.
6. Slip barrel into barrel recess. Place end of shift cable on shift lever pin and lock in place
with cable retainer. Secure barrel after throttle cable is installed.
a
b
c
a-Barrel
b-Pin
c-Retainer
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 1D-9
53253
OUTBOARD INSTALLATION
7. Check shift cable adjustment as follows:
a. Shift remote control into forward gear. The propeller should not be able to rotate in
a counterclockwise direction. If propeller does rotate counterclockwise, adjust barrel
closer to end of cable and recheck.
b. Shift remote control into neutral. Propeller should turn freely without drag. If not, ad-
just barrel away from end of cable and repeat steps a and b.
c. While rotating propeller shaft, shift remote control into reverse gear. If propeller
can be rotated, adjust barrel away from end of cable and repeat steps a through c.
d. Shift remote control into neutral. Propeller should turn freely without drag. If not, ad-
just barrel closer to end of cable and repeat steps a through d.
THROTTLE CABLE INSTALLATION
NOTE: For easier installation of throttle cable into control cable grommet, apply a soap and
water solution to top and inside of grommet.
1. Install throttle cable into control cable grommet.
2. Move remote control handle forward to wide open throttle position.
3. Slide barr e l o f t h r o ttle cable into barrel recess of control cable anchor bracket. Place end
of cable on throttle lever pin.
4. With remote control in the wide open throttle position, a 1.6 mm (1/16 in.) gap must
exist between guide of anchor bracket and control cable end. Adjust throttle barrel as
required.
5. Secure throttle cable end to throttle lever pin with retainer.
e
b
a
53252
a-Throttle cable
b-Grommet
c-Barrel
d-Throttle lever pin
e-1.6mm (1/16 in.) gap
f-Guide
g-Cable end
h-Retainer
d
g
h
c
f
53254
Page 1D-1090-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS
On installations where control cables will frequently be removed and reinstalled after the
initial installation (i.e. inflatable boats), a barrel retaining plug has been supplied as an aid
for installation. Using this plug allows the control cables to installed as a set without further
cable adjustment. Install barrel retaining plug as follows:
1. Without allowing barrels of control cables to rotate, remove cables with cable grommet
from outboard.
2. Install barrel retainer plug between control cable barrels.
1. Connect a common ground cable (wire size same as engine battery cables) between
negative terminals on starting batteries.
c
(–)
a-Ground cable (same wire size as engine battery cable) - connect between
negative Terminals
Page 1D-1490-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
a
(–)
Tilt Pin Adjustment
Placing Tilt Pin in Lower Holes
1. Lower the bow.
2. Result in quicker planing off, especially with a heavy load or a stern heavy boat.
3. Generally improve the ride in choppy water.
4. Increase steering torque or pull to the right (with the normal right hand rotation
propeller).
5. In excess, lower the bow of some boats to a point at which they begin to plow with their
bow in the water while on plane. This can result in an unexpected turn in either direction
called bow steering or over-steering if any turn is attempted or if a significant wave is
encountered.
OUTBOARD INSTALLATION
Placing Tilt Pin in Upper Holes
1. Lift the bow out of the water.
2. Generally increase top speed.
3. Increase clearance over submerged objects or a shallow bottom.
4. Increase steering torque or pull to the left at a normal installation height (with the normal
right hand rotation propeller).
5. In excess, cause boat porpoising (bouncing) or propeller ventilation.
2SPARK PLUG (NGK#BPZ8HS-15)
ARST A-STRAP (8 IN.)
ARSTA-STRAP (5-1/2 IN.)
TORQUE
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 2A-5
IGNITION SYSTEM
Description
The ignition system is an alternator driven capacitor discharge system. Major components
of the ignition system are the flywheel, stator, trigger coil, switch box, 2 ignition coils and 2
spark plugs.
The flywheel has permanent magnets mounted in both the outer rim and the center hub.
The BLACK stator assembly is mounted below the flywheel and has a low speed (LS) and
a high speed (HS) capacitor charging coil. Low speed coil provides primary voltage to the
switch box from idle to approximately 2500 RPM. The high speed coil provides primary
voltage from 2000 RPM to the maximum RPM the outboard is capable of achieving.
The RED stator assembly is mounted below the flywheel and has only one capacitor
charging coil.
As the flywheel rotates, the magnets mounted in the flywheel outer rim pass the charging
coils creating voltage. This voltage is rectified to DC and charges the capacitor located in
the switch box.
As the flywheel continues to rotate, the magnets in the center hub pass the trigger coil
creating voltage pulses. These pulses turn on one of the two electronic switches (SCR) in
the switch box. A positive voltage pulse turns on the SCR switch associated with cylinder
#1; a negative voltage pulse turns on the SCR switch associated with cylinder #2.
The SCR switch discharges the stored capacitor voltage into the primary side of the
respective ignition coil. The ignition coil multiplies this voltage to a value high enough to jump
the spark plug gap – 34000 volts for standard coils; 40000 volts for high energy coils.
This sequence occurs once per engine revolution for each cylinder.
Spark timing is changed (advanced/retarded) by rotating the trigger coil on mechanically
advanced models which changes the trigger coil position in relation to the magnets in the
center hub of the flywheel.
Spark timing on electronically advanced models is controlled internally by the switch box
with a fixed trigger.
The stop switch (or ignition switch) shorts the output of the stator to ground to stop the
engine on all models.
Test Procedures
When testing or servicing the outboard ignition system, high voltage is present. Be
extremely cautious. DO NOT touch or disconnect any ignition components while
engine is running or while battery cables are connected on electric start models.
It is recommended that the switch box and ignition coils be tested with a Quicksilver
Multi-Meter/DV A, o r a voltmeter capable of measuring 400 volts DC or higher, in conjunction
with Quicksilver Direct Voltage Adaptor.
All other components can be tested with an ohmmeter.
Before troubleshooting the ignition system, check the following:
1. On electric models, verify that the electric harness and ignition switch are not the source
of the problem. Check that plug-in connectors are fully engaged and that plug terminals
are free of corrosion.
WARNING
2. Verify that wire connections are tight and free of corrosion.
3. Inspect all electrical components that are grounded directly to the engine and all ground
wires that they are properly grounded to engine.
4. Inspect for disconnected wires and short and open circuits.
Page 2A-690-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
Ignition Troubleshooting (BLACK Stator)
TOOL : MULTIMETER/DVA
IGNITION SYSTEM
Tested Part
Stator (BLACK/
YELLOW and
BLACK/WHITE
wires disconnected
from switch box)
Trigger (BROWN/
YELLOW and
BROWN/WHITE
wires disconnected
from switch box)
Tested Part
Multimeter
Wires
RED
BLACK
RED
BLACK
RED
BLACK
RED
BLACK
Multimeter
Connected To
BLACK/WHITE
GROUND
BLACK/YELLOW
GROUND
BLACK/YELLOW
BLACK/WHITE
BROWN/YELLOW
BROWN/WHITE
Connected To
Scale
R x 1120 - 180
R x 100
R x 100
R x 100
Scale
Resistance
(ohms)
32 - 38
31 - 37
6.5 - 8.5
Resistance
(ohms)
Ignition Coils
(all wires disconnected)
Tested Part
Switch Box
Primary Coil
Switch Box
Stop Circuit
Stator Low
Speed
Stator High
Speed
Multimeter
Wires
RED
BLACK
RED
BLACK
RED
BLACK
RED
BLACK
RED
BLACK
Connected To
– Terminal
+ Terminal
GROUND
BLACK/YELLOW
GROUND
BLACK/WHITE
+ Terminal
– Terminal
Spark Plug Tower
– Terminal
Selector
Position
400 VDC125 -260
400 VDC
400 VDC10 - 7550 - 300
Reading At
300 - 1000 RPM
150 - 300
R x 1
R x 1000
1000 - 4000 RPM
0.02 - 0.04
8 - 11
Reading At
200 - 360
250 - 360
NOTE: Copper is an excellent conductor, but resistance may notably vary between low and
high temperature. Therefore, reasonable differences can be accepted between resistance
readings and specifications.
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 2A-7
IGNITION SYSTEM
Ignition Troubleshooting (RED Stator)
TOOL : MULTIMETER/DVA
Tested Part
Stator (GREEN/
WHITE and
WHITE/GREEN
wires disconnected
from switch boxes)
Trigger (BROWN/
YELLOW and
BROWN/WHITE
wires disconnected
from switch boxes)
Tested Part
Ignition Coils
(all wires disconnected)
Multimeter
Wires
RED
BLACK
RED
BLACK
Multimeter
RED
BLACK
RED
BLACK
Connected To
GREEN/WHITE
WHITE/GREEN
BROWN/YELLOW
BROWN/WHITE
Connected To
+ Terminal
– Terminal
Spark Plug Tower
– Terminal
Scale
R x 1370 - 445
R x 100
Scale
R x 1
R x 1000
Resistance
(ohms)
6.5 - 8.5
Resistance
(ohms)
0.02 - 0.04
8 - 11
Tested Part
Switch Box
Primary Coil
Switch Box
Stop Circuit
Stator Voltage
Multimeter
Wires
RED
BLACK
RED
BLACK
RED
BLACK
RED
BLACK
Connected To
– Terminal
+ Terminal
BLACK/YELLOW
GROUND
GREEN/WHITE
GROUND
WHITE/GREEN
GROUND
Selector
Position
400 VDC
400 VDC
400 VDC150 - 330250 - 330
400 VDC150 - 330250 - 330
Reading At
300 - 1000 RPM
125 - 320
150 - 330
Reading At
1000 - 4000 RPM
200 - 320
250 - 330
NOTE: Copper is an excellent conductor, but resistance may notably vary between low and
high temperature. Therefore, reasonable differences can be accepted between resistance
readings and specifications.
Page 2A-890-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
Ignition Components Removal and Installation
CAUTION
Do not strike flywheel with a hard object as flywheel damage could occur. Inspect
flywheel magnets for clinging debris before installation.
WARNING
Engine could possibly start when turning flywheel during removal and installation.
Disconnect (and isolate) spark plug leads.
A 12 volt battery with a Marine Cranking Amperage rating minimum of 465 amperes or a
Cold Cranking Amperage of 400.
Battery
Precautions
When charging batteries, an explosive gas mixture forms in each cell. A portion of this gas
escapes through holes in vent plugs and may form an explosive atmosphere around battery
if ventilation is poor. This explosive gas may remain in or around battery for several hours
after it has been charged. Sparks or flames can ignite this gas and cause an internal
explosion which may shatter the battery.
The following precautions should be observed to prevent an explosion.
1. DO NOT smoke near batteries being charged or which have been charged very recently .
2. DO NOT break live circuits at terminals of batteries because a spark usually occurs at
the point where a live circuit is broken. Always be careful when connecting or
disconnecting cable clamps on chargers. Poor connections are a common cause of
electrical arcs which cause explosions.
3. DO NOT reverse polarity of battery cables on battery terminals.
CAUTION
If battery acid comes into contact with skin or eyes, wash skin immediately with a
mild soap. Flush eyes with water immediately and consult a physician.
Operating Engine Without Battery
In an emergency, engines equipped with an alternator can be started and operated without
a battery, if the WARNING below is followed.
WARNING
Before operating engine with battery leads disconnected from battery, disconnect
stator leads from rectifier and insulate leads from touching ground.
Page 2B-290-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
Battery Charging System Troubleshooting
A fault in the battery charging system usually will cause the battery to become
undercharged. Check battery electrolyte level, and charge battery. See Electrolyte Level,
and Charging a Discharged Battery.
If battery will NOT accept a satisfactory charge, replace battery.
If battery accepts a satisfactory charge, determine the cause of the charging system
problem as follows.
1. Check for correct battery polarity [RED cable to POSITIVE (+) battery terminal]. If
polarity was incorrect, check for damaged rectifier. Refer to RECTIFIER,
RECTIFIER/REGULATOR TEST.
2. Check for loose or corroded battery connections.
3. Visually inspect wiring between stator and battery for cuts, chafing; and disconnected,
loose or corroded connection.
4. Excessive electrical load (too many accessories) will cause battery to run down.
If visual inspection determines that battery connections and wiring are OK, perform the
following stator and rectifier tests.
CHARGING AND STARTING SYSTEM
Battery Charging System
(1998 And Prior)
The battery charging system components are the alternator, rectifier and battery. Alternating
current flows to the rectifier which changes alternating current (AC) current to direct current
(DC) for charging the battery.
c
a-Alternator
b-Rectifier
c-Battery
a
b
+
The charging system may be damaged by:
1. Reversed battery cables.
2. Running the engine with battery cables disconnected and alternator leads connected
to rectifier.
3. An open circuit, such as a broken wire or loose connection.
Amperage outpu t c a n b e m ea s u r e d b y installing a amp meter a (10 amp minimum) in series
between the rectifier and the battery or by clamping an inductive type amp meter (10 amp
minimum) over the RED output lead from the rectifier to the battery.
NOTE: Acceptable alternator amperage output should be within ±10% of the amperes listed
below.
NOTE: Alternator can be tested without removing from engine.
1. Disconnect GRAY and YELLOW alternator leads from terminals on either rectifier,
voltage regulator or isolator block.
2. Use an ohmmeter and perform tests as shown in following chart.
3. If meter readings are other than specified, replace alternator assembly.
Test Leads
RED to YELLOW
BLACK to GRAY
RED to either GRAY or YELLOW
BLACK to GROUND
NOTE: DC resistance of these windings generally is less than 1 ohm. A reading that
resembles a short is acceptable.
Rectifier Test (1998 And Prior)
Disconnect battery leads from battery before testing rectifier.
NOTE: Rectifier can be tested without removing from engine.
1. Disconnect all wires from terminals on rectifier.
2. Use an ohmmeter (R x 1000 scale) and perform the following test. Refer to drawing for
rectifier terminal identification.
ResistanceScale
0.65*R x 1
NO CONTINUITYR x 1000
WARNING
Page 2B-490-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
Connect red meter lead to ground (d), black lead
alternately to terminals (a) and (c).
Continuity IndicatedNo Continuity Indicated
Connect black meter lead to ground (d), red
lead alternately to terminals (a) and (c).
CHARGING AND STARTING SYSTEM
Connect black meter lead to ground (d), red
lead alternately to terminals (a) and (c).
No Continuity Indicated
Connect black meter lead to terminal (b), red
lead alternately to terminals (a) and (c).
Connect red meter lead to terminal (b),
black lead alternately to terminals (a)
and (c).
No Continuity Indicated.
Continuity Indicated
Continuity Indicated.
Rectifier tests O.K.
No Continuity Indicated.
Replace Rectifier.
Replace Rectifier.
a
b
Continuity Indicated.
Replace Rectifier.
No Continuity Indicated.
Replace Rectifier.
Continuity Indicated.
Replace Rectifier.
Connect black meter lead to terminal (b), red
lead alternately to terminals (a) and (c).
No Continuity Indicated.
Replace Rectifier.
c
d
Continuity Indicated
No Continuity Indicated
Connect red meter lead to terminal (b),
black lead alternately to terminals (a)
and (c).
Continuity Indicated.
Rectifier Tests O.K.
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 2B-5
07300
CHARGING AND STARTING SYSTEM
(1999 And Newer)
The battery charging system components are the alternator, rectifier/regulator and the
battery. Alternating current (generated in the alternator/stator coils) flows to the
rectifier/regulator, which changes the alernating current ot direct current for charging the
battery.
a
b
e
d
c
59093
a-Alternator
b-Tachometer module
c-Tachometer lead
d-Ground leads
e-Rectifier/Regulator
The charging system may be damaged by:
a. Reversed battery cables.
b. Running the engine with battery cables disconnected and alternator leads
connected to rectifier.
c. An open circuit, such as a broken wire or loose connection.
Amperage output can be measured by installing a amp meter (10 amp minimum) in series
between the rectifier and the battery or by clamping an inductive type amp meter (10 amp
minimum) over the RED output lead from the rectifier to the battery.
NOTE: Acceptable alternator amperage output should be within ±10% of the amperes listed
below.
RED to either YELLOW, BLACK to GROUNDNO CONTINUITYR x 1000
*DC resistance of these windings generally is less than 1 ohm. A reading that resembles
a short is acceptable.
*
R x 1
Page 2B-690-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
Tachometer Module Static Test
DIODE
DIODE
1. Disconnect GRAY, YELLOW, and YELLOW/BLACK tachometer module leads.
CHARGING AND STARTING SYSTEM
91-854009A1
2. Set meter to
.
NOTE: uses the batteryvoltage within the meter.
3. Connect the multi-meter black lead to engine ground or BLACK harness wire. Connect
the REDmulti-meter lead to the GRAY tachometer module engine bullet connector.
4. Measure voltage.
b
a
YEL = Yellow
BLK = Black
GRY = Gray
YEL/BLK = Yellow with Black Stripe
59093
a-Tachometer module
b-Engine ground
METER TEST LEADS
METER SCALEREADING
REDBLACK
TACHOMETER MODULE LEADS
GRAYBLACK OR GROUND
5. Connect the multi-meter RED lead to engine ground or BLACK harness wire. Connect
the BLACK multi-meter lead to the GRAY tachometer module bullet connector.
6. Measure voltage.
METER TEST LEADS
REDBLACK
TACHOMETER MODULE LEADS
BLACK OR GROUNDGRAY
7. Set meter to .
8. Measure resistance.
METER TEST LEADS
REDBLACK
TACHOMETER MODULE LEADS
BLACK OR GROUNDGRAY
Open, OUCH, or OL
METER SCALEREADING (V)
0.5 - 0.9 Volts
METER SCALEREADING ()
4 - 8 Mega Ohms
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 2B-7
CHARGING AND STARTING SYSTEM
9. Connect GRAY, YELLOW, and YELLOW/BLACK tachometer module leads to engine
harness.
10. Measure resistance.
METER TEST LEADS
REDBLACK
TACHOMETER MODULE LEADS
BLACK OR GROUNDGRAY
11. Connect the multi-meter RED lead to the YELLOW tachometer module wire. Connect
the BLACK multi-meter lead to engine ground or to the BLACK tachometer module bullet
connector.
3. Connect Direct V oltage Adapter to DMT 2000 multi-meter. Connect the multi-meter RED
lead to the GRAY tachometer module wire. Connect the BLACK multi-meter lead to engine ground or to the BLACK tachometor module bullet connector.
4. Crank or start engine.
5. Measure voltage.
METER TEST LEADS
REDBLACK
TACHOMETER MODULE LEAD
GRAYBLACK OR GROUND
METER SCALEREADING
9 - 14 Volts
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 2B-9
CHARGING AND STARTING SYSTEM
Rectifier/Regulator (P/N 853358T1) Diode Test
WARNING
Disconnect battery leads from battery before testing rectifier.
Digital Meter (DMT 2000 or Equivalent)
NOTE:Voltage regulator/rectifier specifications are given for informational purposes only.
Use the appropriate troubleshooting techniques previously mentioned to find the faulty
component in the charging system.
1. Set meter to Ω.
BLK = Black
RED = Red
YEL = Yellow
2. Connect BLACK (–) meter lead to regulator case.
3. Connect RED (+) meter lead to BLACK lead.
4. Connect BLACK (–) meter lead to regulator case.
5. Connect RED (+) meter lead to RED lead.
RESISTANCE TEST - SCR
1. Set meter to Ω.
2. Connect RED (+) meter lead to regulator case.
3. Connect BLACK (–) meter lead to either YELLOW regulator lead. Test.
4. Connect BLACK (–) meter lead to YELLOW/BLACK regulator lead.
Resistance Specification
0.0 OHMS
Resistance Specification
4.28 K OHMS
Resistance Specification (Both Tests)
900 K OHMS Minimum
Page 2B-1090-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
VOLTAGE SPIKE SUPRESSER
1. Set meter to .
2. Connect RED (+) meter lead to regulator case.
3. Connect BLACK (–) meter lead to RED regulator lead.
Voltage Specification
0.4 - 0.7 VOLTS
VOLTAGE SPIKE SUPRESSER DIODE TEST
1. Set meter to .
2. Connect BLACK (–) meter lead to RED regulator lead.
3. Connect RED (+) meter lead to either YELLOW regulator lead. Test.
4. Connect RED (+) meter lead to the other YELLOW regulator lead.
Diode Test Specification (Both Tests)
0.4 - 0.8 VOLTS
DIODE TEST
CHARGING AND STARTING SYSTEM
SCR TEST
1. Set meter to .
2. Connect RED (+) meter lead to RED regulator lead.
3. Connect BLACK (–) meter lead to either YELLOW regulator lead. Test.
4. Connect BLACK (–) meter lead to the other YELLOW regulator lead.
Diode Test Specification (Both Tests)
No Continuity - Ouch - OL or
1. Set meter to .
2. Connect BLACK (–) meter lead to regulator case.
3. Connect RED (+) meter lead to either YELLOW regulator lead. Test.
4. Connect RED (+) meter lead to other YELLOW regulator lead.
SCR Test Specification (Both Tests)
1.5 Volts - No Continuity - Ouch - OL or
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 2B-11
CHARGING AND STARTING SYSTEM
Analog Meter
NOTE:Voltage regulator/rectifier specifications are given for informational purposes only.
Use the appropriate troubleshooting techniques previously mentioned to find the faulty
component in the charging system.
DIODE TEST
1. Set Ohm meter to R X 10 scale.
2. Connect RED(+) meter lead to RED regulator lead.
3. Connect BLACK (–) meter lead to either YELLOW or YELLOW/BLACK regulator lead.
BLK = Black
RED = Red
YEL = Yellow
Resistance Specification
DIODE TEST
SCR TEST
100 - 400 OHMS
1. Set Ohm meter to R X 1K scale.
2. Connect Black (–) meter lead to RED regulator lead.
3. Connect RED (+) meter lead to YELLOW regulator lead. Test.
4. Connect RED (+) meter lead to the other YELLOW regulator lead.
Test Specification (Both Tests)
40,000 to OHMS (40 K)
1. Set Ohm meter to R X 1K scale.
2. Connect RED (+) meter lead to regulator case.
3. Connect BLACK (–) meter lead to the YELLOW regulator lead. Test.
4. Connect BLACK (–) meter lead to the other YELLOW lead.
SCR Test Specification (Both Tests)
10,000 OHMS (10K)
Page 2B-1290-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
Starting System
STARTER MOTOR AMPERES DRAW
CHARGING AND STARTING SYSTEM
STARTER MOTOR
PART NO.
50-90983A115 AMPS
Starter Motor Teeth
STARTING SYSTEM COMPONENTS
The starting system consists of the following components.
1. Battery
2. Starter Solenoid
3. Neutral Start Switch
4. Starter Motor
5. Ignition Switch
Description
The function of the starting system is to crank the engine. The battery supplies electrical
energy to crank the starter motor. When the ignition switch is turned to “START” position,
the starter solenoid is activated and completes the starting circuit between the battery and
starter.
The neutral start switch opens the start circuit when the shift control lever is not in neutral.
This prevents accidental starting when engine is in gear.
NO LOAD
AMP. DRAW
NORMAL
AMP. DRAW
55 AMPS
10
The starter motor may be damaged if operated continuously. DO NOT operate
continuously for more than 30 seconds. Allow a 2 minute cooling period between
starting attempts
.
Troubleshooting the Starting Circuit
Before beginning the starting circuit troubleshooting flow chart, following, check first for the
following conditions:
1. Make sure that battery is fully charged.
2. Check that control lever is in NEUTRAL position.
3. Check terminals for corrosion and loose connections.
4. Check cables and wiring for frayed and worn insulation.
5. Check in-line fuse in RED wire. Refer to wire diagram SECTION 2D.
The following STARTING CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING FLOW CHART is designed as
an aid to troubleshooting the starting circuit. This flow chart will accurately locate any
existing malfunction. Location of TEST POINTS are numbered in diagram below.
IMPORTANT: Remote Control Electric Start Models have a 20 Ampere fuse located
under the cowl next to the starter solenoid. This fuse protects the remote control
harness. If this fuse is open, the starter will be inoperative. The cause of the blown
fuse (a short) should be found and corrected.
CAUTION
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 2B-13
CHARGING AND STARTING SYSTEM
Starting Circuit Troubleshooting Flow Chart
7
2
6
1
3
4
5
Starting Circuit Troubleshooting Flow Chart
Starter Motor Does Not Turn
SAFETY WARNING: Disconnect BLACK (with YELLOW
sleeve) cable from starter solenoid test point 1 BEFORE
making tests to prevent unexpected engine cranking.
TEST 1
Use an ohmmeter (R x 1 scale) and connect meter leads
between NEGATIVE battery post and common powerhead
ground.
No Continuity Indicated
There is an o p e n circuit in the BLACK NEGATIVE battery cable
between the NEGATIVE battery post and the powerhead.
• Check cable for loose or corroded connections.
• Check cable for open.
To Rectifier/Regualtor
53056
Continuity Indicated
Proceed to TEST 2, on next page.
Page 2B-1490-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
CHARGING AND STARTING SYSTEM
TEST 2
a. Connect voltmeter between common engine ground and Test Point 2.
No voltage reading;
proceed to TEST 3.
b. Push start switch.
TEST 3
a. Connect voltmeter between common engine ground and Test Point 3.
b. Push Start Switch.
No voltage reading;
proceed to TEST 4.
12 Volt Reading
Defective starter solenoid.
TEST 4
a. Connect voltmeter between common
No voltage reading;
proceed to TEST 5.
engine ground and Test Point 4.
b. Push Start Switch.
TEST 5
No voltage reading;
proceed to TEST 6.
Connect voltmeter between common
engine ground and Test Point 5.
* Battery Voltage
12 Volt Reading*
Check BLACK ground wire for poor connection
or open circuit. Reconnect ground wire to starter solenoid; proceed to TEST 7.
Electric Start Tiller Handle Model
Neutral start switch on lower engine cowl is open
or BLACK or WHITE switch leads are disconnected
or damaged. Proceed to TEST 7.
12 Volt Reading*
Neutral start switch is open, or YELLOW/RED
wire is open between Test Points 4 and 3.
12 Volt Reading*
Defective ignition switch.
TEST 6
Connect voltmeter between common engine ground and Test Point 6.
No voltage reading; check RED wire between
battery positive terminal and Test Point 6.
TEST 7
a. Connect voltmeter between common engine ground and Test Point 1.
b. Push Start Switch.
No voltage reading;
Defective starter
solenoid.
TEST 8
a. Reconnect BLACK (starter motor) cable to starter solenoid Test Point 1.
b. Connect voltmeter between common engine ground and Test Point 7
c. Push Start Switch.
No voltage reading; check BLACK cable
for poor connection or open circuit.
12 Volt Reading*
Check fuse in RED wire between test points 5 and 6.
Check for open RED wire between test points 5 and 6.
12 Volt Reading*
Should hear solenoid click; proceed to TEST 8.
12 Volt Reading*
Check BLACK ground cable at starter for
loose or corroded connection, or open circuit.
If cable is O.K., check starter motor.
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 2B-15
CHARGING AND STARTING SYSTEM
COMMANDER 2000 Key Switch Test
1. Disconnect remote control wiring harness and instrument panel connector.
2. Set ohmmeter on R x 1 scale for the following tests:
KEY
POSITION
OFF
RUN
START
CHOKE*
CONTINUITY SHOULD BE INDICATED AT THE FOLLOWING POINTS:
BLKBLK/YELREDYEL/REDPURYEL/BLK
*Key switch must be positioned to “RUN” or “START” and key pushed in to
actuate choke for this test.
3. If meter readings are other than specified in the preceding tests, verify that switch and
not wiring is faulty. If wiring checks ok, replace switch.
Page 2B-1690-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
Emergency Stop Switch (Lanyard Type)
IMPORTANT: Refer to Section 2D-Wiring Diagrams for wiring connections.
1. Disconnect emergency stop switch leads from engine wiring.
2. Use an ohmmeter and perform the following tests.
CHARGING AND STARTING SYSTEM
3. If meter readings are other than specified, replace emergency stop switch.
Push Button Stop Switch
IMPORTANT: Refer to Section 2D-Wiring Diagrams for wiring connections.
1. Disconnect push button stop switch leads from engine wiring.
2. Use an ohmmeter and perform the following tests.
CONTINUITY
(I Ohm or Less)
“OFF”
CONTINUITY
(1 Ohm or Less)
“RUN”
NO CONTINUITY
(∞)
23421
3. If meter readings are other than specified, replace push button stop switch.
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 2B-17
NO CONTINUITY
(∞)
23421
CHARGING AND STARTING SYSTEM
Electrical Component Removal and Installation
25
e
25
Liquid Neoprene
Voltage Regulator
Rectifier
25
c
b
Starter Solenoid
25
Torque Specifications
Tighten Securely
a
70 lb. in. (7.9 N·m)
b
c
15 lb. in. (1.7 N·m)
d
30 lb. in. (3.4 N·m)
25 lb. in. (2.8 N·m)
e
a
25
e
a
d
53261
Page 2B-1890-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
Starter Motor
Disassembly
1. Remove 2 thru-bolts from starter.
2. Lightly tap on end of shaft and lower end cap with rubber mallet. Do not lose brush
CHARGING AND STARTING SYSTEM
springs.
b
a
a-Bolts
b-Lower end cap
c-Washers
d-Bolts
3. Tap on drive end cap to loosen. Remove end cap and armature from starter housing.
4. If removal of parts that are installed on armature is necessary, hold armature with Strap
Wrench and remove locknut from end of shaft and discard.
1. If brushes are pitted, chipped or worn to less than 4.8mm (3/16 in.), replace brushes.
IMPORT ANT: DO NOT clean the starter drive assembly or armature shaft while starter
motor is installed on outboard. The cleaning solution will drain dirt into motor
housing.
2. If the motor drive assembly does not fully engage with flywheel, the drive assembly may
be binding on the helix threads on the armature shaft due to dirt or wear. Locate cause
of binding and correct before reassembling.
3. Clean drive components with cleaning solution and inspect parts for wear.
4. Clean commutator with No. 00 sandpaper. Remove any oil from commutator. If
commutator surface is pitted, rough or worn unevenly, resurface on a lathe.
5. Resurface commutator on a lathe as follows:
a. Use a lathe to turn down the commutator surface. DO NOT turn down the
commutator surface excessively.
b. Clean copper particles from slots between commutator bars.
c. Sand the commutator lightly with No. 00 sandpaper to remove burrs. Thoroughly
clean the armature after resurfacing and sanding.
Testing Motor Armature
TESTING ARMATURE FOR SHORTS
1. Place armature in a growler and switch growler on.
2. Hold hack saw blade over armature core while rotating armature.
3. If saw blade vibrates, armature is shorted. Retest after cleaning between commutator
bars. If saw blade still vibrates, replace armature.
c
a-Hack saw blade
b-Armature core
c-Commutator
a
b
01440
Page 2B-2090-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
TESTING ARMATURE FOR GROUND
1. Use an ohmmeter (R x 100) to check for no continuity between commutator and
armature core or commutator and shaft.
2. If continuity exists, armature is grounded and must be replaced.
a
c
a-Commutator
b-Core
c-Shaft
CHARGING AND STARTING SYSTEM
b
01441
Starter Motor Reassembly
1. Reinstall brush assembly.
e
d
c
a
a-Brush
b-End cap
c-Fiber washer
d-Metal washer
e-Nut
b
53075
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 2B-21
CHARGING AND STARTING SYSTEM
2. Apply a drop of SAE 10W oil to to helix threads on armature shaft. DO NOT over
lubricate.
3. Apply a drop of SAE 10W oil to bushings in drive end cap and lower end cap. DO NOT
over lubricate.
4. Reinstall components on armature shaft. Use a new locknut and tighten securely.
a
e
d
53080
c
b
f
g
h
i
53228
a-Helix threads
b-Locknut
c-Spacer
d-Spring
e-Drive assembly
f-Drive end cap
g-Armature shaft
h-Helix threads
i-Washer
5. Position armature into starter frame so that commutator end of armature is at end of
starter frame where permanent magnets are recessed 33.3mm (1-5/16 in.). Align marks
as shown.
b
a-Alignment marks
b-Bottom edge of permanent magnets
Page 2B-2290-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
a
1-5/16 in.
53082
CHARGING AND STARTING SYSTEM
6. Install springs and brushes into brush holders. Spread brushes and hold in place with
a strip of spring steel.
7. Push in on drive end of shaft so that commutator will extend out of starter frame.
8. Install lower end cap onto starter frame.
c
a-Brushes
b-Spring steel
c-Commutator
d-Alignment mark; must align with slot
e-Slot
f-Lower end cap
Starter Solenoid Test
Test starter solenoid as follows:
b
f
d
e
a
53213
53083
1. Disconnect all leads from solenoid terminals.
2. Use an ohmmeter, set to R x 1 scale and connect between solenoid terminals 3 and 4.
3. Connect a 12-volt supply between solenoid terminals 1 and 2. Solenoid should click and
meter should read zero ohms.
4. If meter does not read zero ohms (full continuity), replace solenoid.
4
a-Ohmmeter leads
b-12-volt supply
4
a
3
3
1
1
b
2
2
14354
90-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003Page 2B-23
CHARGING AND STARTING SYSTEM
Flywheel Ring Gear
Installation
IMPORTANT: Before installing ring gear on flywheel, inspect gear and flywheel for
paint runs which will prevent ring gear from laying flat against flywheel.
1. Inspect (and remove) any paint runs on ring gear and/or mounting surface on flywheel.
2. Place gear on flywheel with countersink side of mounting holes toward the outside.
3. Apply Loctite 271 to threads of 4 gear mounting screws and secure gear to flywheel.
Torque screws to 11.3 Nm (100 lb. in).
1. Mount neutral start switch onto control platform with 2 bolts and plate.
7
53240
2. Torque mounting bolts to 0.6 Nm (5 lb. in.).
a-Neutral start switch
b-Plate
c-Bolts [Torque to 0.6 Nm (5 lb. in.)]
Page 2B-2490-827242R02 FEBRUARY 2003
a
c
b
53077
CHARGING AND STARTING SYSTEM
3. Route switch harness over block. Secure harness to stator harness with cable-tie.
4. Route harness behind rectifier. Attach BLACK lead to solenoid mount bolt. Attach
BLACK lead with YELLOW sleeve to terminal 1 of starter solenoid.
d
c
b
a-Switch harness
b-BLACK lead
c-BLACK lead with YELLOW sleeve
d-Terminal 1
e-Cable-tie
Tiller Handle Start Button
1. The tiller handle start button assembly is secured to the tiller handle by 2 semi-loops
which snap fit onto the tiller throttle shaft. To remove the button assembly, pry the
assembly away from the tiller handle with a flat tip screwdriver.
a
e
53076
2. The starter button harness is routed into the lower cowl through the fuel connector