The information presented in this manual is printed in a loose format and is divided into
sections relating to a general group of components and/or service procedures. Each
section is further subdivided to describe a particular component or service procedure.
Anything of a unique nature concerning these models has been detailed and labeled as
such in the manual.
The subdividing of the subject matter, plus the loose leaf form will facilitate the updating of the manual as new or revised components are added or new models are introduced.
Each page of the manual will be identified in the lower right-hand corner, and as new or
revised pages are published, the manual can easily be updated by following the file
instructions on the cover letter of the supplement.
The service manual is a valuable tool and care should be taken to keep it up to date by
prompt and proper filing of subsequent pages as they are used.
PRECAUTIONS TO BE OBSERVED BEFORE AND DURING SER VICING TO AVOID
POSSIBLE EXPOSURE TO EXCESSIVE DANGER AND ELECTRICAL SHOCK:
1. Disconnect electrical supply before servicing machine.
2. If electricity is required for a test:
(A) First, disconnect electrical supply;
(B) Second, make any connections or adjustments required for the test;
(C) Third, connect electrical supply;
(D) Fourth, perform the test. If service is required, disconnect electrical
supply before servicing machine.
3. Please use caution when servicing the machine with the front panel
removed because there is danger of injury due to potential contact
with spinning transmission.
4. Please use caution when servicing the machine with the front panel
removed because there is danger of injury due to contact with a
potential "pinch point" between the turned up edge of the transmission
cover and the tub support flange.
Shipping - 185 pounds approximately
Operating - 160 pounds approximately
Width27"
Depth27"
Height to top of cabinet35 3/4"
Height to top of control panel44"
Height with door open53 1/2"
W ASHER WEIGHT
DIMENSIONS
FINISH
Cabinet Top - powdered paint
Clothes Door - powdered paint
Outer Tub - constructed entirely of polypropylene
Basket - polypropylene
Cabinet - baked enamel
Base and other finished parts - baked primer
DRAIN HEIGHT
32 inch minimum
60 inch minimum
MOTOR
3/4 H.P., reversible, 115 volt, 60 cycle A.C.
TRANSMISSION
16023083
Rack and pinion type, incorporating reduction gears
Agitate-RegularFull Tub 10.4
Agitate-SlowFull Tub 7.6
Agitate-RegularDry Tub 7.5
Spin-RegularDry Tub 10.2
Spin-SlowDry Tub 7.6
Pump Out-RegularFull Tub 10.8
Pump Out-SlowFull Tub 8.0
T ABLE 0-2. RESIST ANCE CHART
*RESISTANCE
COMPONENTS (OHMS)
Timer Motor 2360
Mixing Valve
Cold Solenoid 853
Hot Solenoid 867
Drive Motor
High Speed 1.3
Low Speed 2.3
Start 3.1
TABLE 0-2. RESISTANCE CHART
*WATTAGE
CYCLE RANGE
Agitate-Regular
Full Tub610-640 / 670 (MAX.)
Agitate-Slow
Full Tub370-400 / 420 (MAX.)
Agitate-Regular
Dry Tub460-470 / 480 (MAX.)
Agitate-Slow
Dry Tub350-360 / 370 (MAX.)
Pump Out-Regular760
Pump Out-Slow510
Spin-Regular
Full Tub460
Spin-Slow
Full Tub340
* These will vary with washer load and line voltage.
All special tools are manufactured by Robinaire with the exception of the 35-2442 Brake Removal T ool
and 35-2968 Spanner W rench - Basket Hub. These tools are privately manufactured for and stocked
by Maytag Customer Service.
NOTE: The tools listed below can be ordered from any authorized Maytag Customer Service parts
distributor.
This section will detail the servicing procedures on the transmission assembly which
has splines formed on the agitator drive shaft. An "O" ring is installed on the shaft just
above the center post to provide a center post seal when the agitator is installed.
The center post assembly consists of a
plastic center post. A nylon agitator
bearing slips over the lower portion on
the center post body.
The center post assembly is secured to
the basket hub assembly by the spin
basket, and to the agitator shaft. A
small rubber gasket is installed in a
groove on the bottom flange of the center
post, and a foam gasket is placed
between the bottom of the spin basket
and the basket hub assembly.
The center post can be removed after
removing the spin basket, and the agitator shaft "O" ring.
BEARING AND SEAL HOUSING
1. Disconnect the unit from the power
source.
2. Remove the agitator , spin basket,
tub assembly , and center post.
3. Remove the Seal nut with 2202898 and
35-2968
4. Remove the basket hub assembly
by turning it in a counterclockwise direction, using tool number
35-2968.
5. Remove the suspension springs to
prevent damage to the tub braces
and unbolt the tub braces from the
tub support.
6. T o remove, lift up on the bearing
and seal housing with tub support
attached.
The die-cast bearing and seal housing
slips over a machined area on the lower
drive tube. The basket hub assembly
threads downward over the drive tube
and secures the bearing and seal housing.
The spin bearing and the tub seal are
installed in a cavity in the center of the
housing. The sheet metal tub support is
attached to the under side of the housing
with three (3) mounting screws. The
spin bearing has been pressed into the
underside of the housing cavity and is
secured by the tub support.
The center of the tub assembly mounts to
the upper flange of the housing with a tub
gasket and a tub seal installed between.
The bottom of the tub sits on, and is
attached to, the tub support.
There are 2 Tub Seal designs, the original
Face Seal and the new Triple Lip Seal
introduced at series 17.
Face Seal
The tub Face Seal consists of the seal face
and seal body .
NOTE: All parts of the seal must be
replaced if either of the sealing surfaces
are damaged.
The seal face fits into a recess in the underside of the basket hub assembly . Also, the
seal body installs in the cavity on the top side
of the bearing and seal housing. The spin
bearing is located in a cavity on the underside of the bearing and seal housing.
Seal
Face
Seal
Body
Each of the two (2) sealing parts, the seal
face and the seal body , have sealing faces
which are brought into contact with one
another when the basket hub assembly is
threaded down on the drive tube. The
springs in the seal body exert pressure to
keep the sealing faces in contact.
Triple Lip Seal
Triple Lip Tub Seal
Assembly used with the
21001867 Hi-T orque
Transmission Assembly .
NOTE: Sealing surface
are on the O.D. of the
aluminum spinner hub
with no seal in the hub
cavity.
NOTE:The Triple Lip Seal and Bearing is only used with the High Torque Dual Drive
transmission. The 21001867 High Torque service transmission will include a T riple Lip Seal and
Bearing for proper matching of parts. The High Torque transmission will have An “HT” next to the date
code for field identification purposes. Do not use 21001868 Seal kit on older transmissions not de
signed to operate at higher torque levels. Always refer to Parts Pro or Microfiche for proper p arts
ordering. The 21001868 Triple Lip Seal kit will include a sticker to be placed on the Outer Tub of the
washer to identify the washer has been modified with a High Torque Transmission and Triple Lip Seal
kit.
Should the tub seal begin to leak or develop
excess seal drag, it must be replaced. The
service replacement seal includes all the
parts necessary to replace the entire seal.
Be sure to replace all parts of the seal even if
only one part is found to be damaged.
TRIPLE LIP SEAL
1. Apply center seal grease (056016) to
Seal Nut and T riple Lip Seal before
installing.
Seal Nut (056016) grease
NOTE: If the tub seal is being replaced
because it has begun to leak, the spin
bearing is probably defective also and
should be replaced. To replace the spin
bearing, the bearing and seal housing
must be removed as previously described. This also allows access to the
tub seal for removal and replacement
(refer to steps 2 and 3 below when installing).
Removal and replacement of the tub seal
can ONL Y be accomplished as follows:
1. Follow steps 1 through 3 for the
face seal
NOTE: For Triple Lip Seal special instuction,
see next column
FACE SEAL
2. Before installing the new seal, coat
the mounting recess of the housings
with silicone grease (part number
203959). This will allow the seal
body and seal face to slip into position.
NOTE: MAKE SURE NO GREASE
COMES IN CONTACT WITH THE
MATING SURFACES OF THE SEAL.
3. Make sure both seal mating surfaces
are free of foreign matter, then clean
both surfaces with an alcohol satu-
rated cloth.
NOTE: Do not use any agent other than
alcohol to clean the mating surface. Do
not use any lubricant other than Silicone
Grease, part number 203959.
Triple Lip Seal (056016) grease
SPIN BEARING
The spin bearing is installed in a cavity on
the underside of the bearing and seal
housing. It is also press fitted and bottoms out on the cavity shoulder. It is
further secured in place by the inner
diameter of the tub support.
SPIN BEARING REPLACEMENT :
1. Disconnect the unit from the power
source.
2. Remove the bearing and seal housing and the tub support as previously described.
3. Remove the seal body from the
housing cavity.
4. Press the spin bearing out of
the cavity from the opposite side of
the housing.
5. When installing the replacement
bearing into the housing cavity, be
sure to press against the outer race
of the bearing to avoid damage to
the bearing shield and causing premature failure.
The drive pulley and cam is located below
the brake assembly on the drive shaft.
Models are equipped with a plastic drive
pulley which has the upper cam molded
onto the bottom of the hub. The purpose
of the pulley and cam arrangement is to
drive the clutch assembly during the
agitate and spin cycle, and to disengage
the brake assembly during the spin cycle.
The drive pulley slips over the drive shaft
and rests against a series of washers, a
thrust bearing, and a large washer type
spacer. The spacer locates against the
bottom of the brake rotor and lining
assembly. (See the illustration on
page 6-6.)
The lower cam slips over the end of the
drive shaft where splines formed in the
cam engage with mating splines on the
drive shaft end. This imparts a direct
drive from the cam to the drive shaft.
A shoulder molded on the bottom of the
pulley hub engages "dogs" formed on the
sides of the lower cam, and will drive it
and the drive shaft in either direction.
When the drive pulley rotates CLOCK-WISE, the upper and lower cams are
designed to nest together which allows
the drive pulley to remain in position on
the drive shaft. The break remains engaged and the drive pulley will turn the
lower cam and drive the shaft to cause
the transmission
to agitate.
When the drive pulley rotates COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, the upper cam and pulley
ride up the lower cam approximately 3/16
of an inch before the driving shoulders on
the pulley hub engage the "dogs" on the
lower cam.
This causes the top of the pulley hub to
push against the spacer which compresses the brake spring and lifts the
brake rotor and lining assembly off the
brake stator. The brake is disengaged
and the pulley will turn the lower cam
and drive shaft to cause the transmission
to spin.
A washer and retaining ring secure the
pulley and cam on the drive shaft. A
plastic dust cap snaps to the underside
of the pulley to keep the cam surfaces
clean.
3. Remove the dust cap from the under
side of pulley.
4. Remove retaining ring and washer
from end of drive shaft.
5. Firmly pull lower cam off the drive
shaft splines, then slide the other
parts off the shaft. This will also
allow access to the brake assembly
for removal.
REASSEMBLY:
the brake starts to release and the
transmission begins to turn.
(See following figure).
2. Counting the reference marks on the
lower cam from right to left, the
pulley hub shoulder should be positioned between reference marks 9
and 3, with 6 being the median.
(Shown in the following figure).
After reassembling the components on
the drive shaft, it will probably be necessary to pull down on the shaft to take the
end play out of it before the thrust washer
and retaining ring can be reinstalled.
NOTE:
Each time the cams are reas-
sembled on the drive shaft, the point in
the cam rise where the brake disengages
the stator should be checked and adjusted as necessary.
Reference marks have been molded
around the bottom outer edge of the
lower cam as an aid in checking the point
of brake disengagement (see followingfigure). Each mark, from right to left,
represents approximately .010 of an inch
cam rise.
T o Check Brake Disengagement:
1. Manually rotate the drive pulley in a
slow counterclockwise direction until
If the position of the pulley hub shoulder
is not within these parameters and the
brake has started disengaging,
adjust-
ment is required.
T o Adjust Brake Disengagement:
1. If the position of the pulley hub
shoulder is
less than 3 reference
marks, remove the standard (.062
thickness) thrust washer and replace
it with a thinner (.032 thickness)
thrust washer (part number 35-2132).
Recheck disengagement.
2. If the position of the pulley hub
shoulder is
more than 9 reference
marks, add a 35-2132 thrust washer
(.032) to the standard thrust washer
and recheck disengagement.
The brake assembly is located inside the
domed area of the suspension housing
and consists of the following components: brake spring retainer, brake
spring, rotor and lining assembly, and
the brake stator.
2. Remove the drive pulley and cam
components as previously described.
3. Using brake removal tool number
35-2442, proceed as follows:
•Pull out and remove "U" retainer
from tool.
The brake assembly, as well as the snubber, is held in position by the brake stator
which is secured to the underside of the
suspension housing by six (6) mounting
screws.
Spring pressure forces the rotor and
lining assembly down on the brake stator
and prevents the transmission from
turning during agitation.
As stated previously, the drive pulley and
cams provide a cam action which raises
the drive pulley during the counterclockwise (spin) direction of the motor. When
the drive pulley hub travels upward, it
compresses the brake spring and moves
the rotor and lining assembly up the drive
tube disengaging it from the stator. The
transmission is now free to spin.
Splines in the brake rotor hub mesh with
splines on the drive tube end to provide
positive vertical movement for the rotor
and lining assembly. The splines are
greased for ease of movement.
•Slip the splined end of the drive
shaft into hole located in the tool
inner plunger.
• Looking at the side of the tool,
align slots on tool barrel and holes
in tool plunger between splines
and chamfered shoulder of shaft.
•Slip "U" retainer through tool slots
and holes capturing the drive
shaft behind the chamfered shoulder.
NOTE: Be sure "U" retainer is
completely through both sides of
tool.
•Tighten tool nut to compress
brake spring
until transmission
turns freely.
•Remove the six (6) screws which
secure the brake stator and snubber to the underside of the suspension housing.
CAUTION
The brake assembly has a compres sive spring force of approximately
200 pounds. See the following in structions for disassembly.
The die-cast aluminum transmission
housing has four studs pressed into its
upper region. The studs provide mounting for the two crank and two cluster
gears. The top cover is threaded into the
lower housing. A sealant is used on the
threads as a gasket material. A steel
drive tube with a splined end is pressed
into the bottom of the transmission housing. A sleeve bearing is installed in the
lower I. D. of the drive tube. Another
bearing is pressed into the lower housing
above the drive tube. These bearings
provide a path for the drive shaft to ride
in. An oil seal is installed in the bottom of
the drive tube. The oil seal can be replaced as a separate part.
5. Remove the cone-shaped end from
the seal protector tool and slide the
tool, drive washer, and new seal over
the drive shaft up to the seal cavity.
6. Slide the transmission seal driver
(tool number 14242) over the drive
shaft until it makes contact with the
drive washer. Use the impact sleeve
of the tool to "tap" the seal into the
end of the drive tube.
LOWER BEARING ASSEMBL Y
The lower bearing assembly consists of a
ball type bearing which has been installed
in an aluminum die-cast housing. The
transmission assembly must be removed
from the washer cabinet before the lower
bearing assembly can be replaced.
Oil Seal Replacement:
The oil seal is located in the spline end of
the drive tube. The seal can be replaced
without removing or disassembling the
transmission, as outlined below:
1. Disconnect the unit from the power
source.
2. Remove the brake assembly to
access the seal.
3. Use a thin, flat bladed screwdriver to
carefully pry the old seal out.
4. Place the drive washer (tool number
14242) and the new seal over
the seal protector.
The lower bearing assembly provides
lateral support for the drive tube and
shaft against the tension of the drive belt.
The top of the suspension housing
is attached to the underside of the lower
bearing assembly.
REPLACEMENT:
IMPORTANT
Because the lower bearing assembly
has been pressed onto the drive tube
under approximately 1,000 pounds of
pressure, a puller must be used to
remove it. However, the puller
forcing screw
must not be used on
the end of the drive shaft or the
clutch assembly could be damaged.
Instead, a simple pipe and cap as sembly can be made to slip over the
drive shaft, with end clearance, and
rest against the end of the drive tube.
Listed below are most of the service
complaints which would normally be
caused by a malfunctioning component
of the transmission assembly.
Oil Leaks
Oil leaks can be caused by faulty seals,
gaskets, or a loose fitting stud.
Slow Spin Speed
Slow spin speed can be caused by a
binding tub seal and/or bearing, brake
rotor assembly not disengaging properly,
a slipping clutch spring, or an off balance
clothes load. The test that follows can be
used to isolate the problem.
The torque available to drive the spin
basket is determined by the amount of
drag or resistance presented by the tub
seal and spin bearing, deducted from the
input torque imparted to the transmission
housing assembly by the clutch assembly.
The Following Torque Tests Will Allow a
Problem in the
Spin Drive Train to be
Pinpointed:
NOTE: Before starting these tests, the
washer should be operated in the agitation cycle with hot water for about two
(2) minutes, and then for two (2) minutes in a spin cycle. This warms up the
transmission oil and the spin drive train
components.
TORQUE TESTING:
A quick test of the efficiency of the spin
operation components can be made by
placing a 3 1/2 pound weight, such as a
bag of sand, in the washer basket and
starting the machine in the spring cycle.
If the basket appears to reach full spin
with the weight, the machine components are performing as intended. If the
basket does not attain full spin speed, the
torque test procedures as outlined in the
following paragraphs should be performed to determine the problem.
Available T orque
Place a 1/2 inch socket and torque
wrench on the agitator retaining bolt.
Depress the safety spin switch to allow
the washer to operate in the spin cycle,
then while reading the torque allow the
wrench to turn slowly (about 6 R.P.M.)
through a complete 360 degree cycle.
The reading should be between 18 and
25 inch pounds throughout the complete
360 degree rotation of the wrench.
If the torque readings are within these
limits, the washer is performing properly
and any slow spin complaints can be
assumed to have been the result of offbalance loads.
If the torque reading exceeds 25 inch
pounds, the input torque outlined later
should be checked to determine the
cause. Probable causes are that the drive
shaft is binding in the transmission housing (drive tube) sleeve bearings, or that
the clutch spring is binding on the drive
shaft hub.
If the available torque reading is less than
20 pounds, follow the procedure for
testing the drag torque.
Drag T orque
Position the washer so the drive pulley
can be accessed, and remove the drive
belt. While holding the transmission to
keep it from turning, manually rotate the
drive pulley counterclockwise
until the
brake stays disengaged. Make certain
the drive pulley hub shoulder has rotated
fully against the cams in the spin driving
position to ensure the complete disengagement of the brake. Release the
transmission so it is free to turn.
Place a 1/2 inch socket and torque
wrench on the agitator retaining bolt.
Slowly rotate the wrench 360 degrees at
approximately 6 R.P.M. and read the
torque. If the torque reading is over 4
inch pounds, remove the brake stator (as
detailed earlier in this section) and recheck the drag torque.
If the reading is still over 4 inch pounds,
the tub seal and/or spin bearing is binding and should be replaced.
If the
18 inch pounds and the
available torque reading is below
drag torque
reading is not over 4 inch pounds, follow
the procedure for checking the clutch
assembly as to its input torque.
Input T orque
NOTE: It will be observed that the
readings used to check the input torque
are slightly lower than the readings used
to check the available torque. The reason for this is when the brake is disengaged, as in checking the available
torque, the compressed brake spring
exerts a downward force on the bottom
of the clutch hub and thrust washers.
This keeps the clutch spring from slipping quite as readily as in checking the
input torque where the brake is engaged
and the downward force on the clutch
hub is minimized.
To check the input torque, remove the
drive pulley and position the washer so
the scale on the torque wrench can be
read when it is placed on the input (drive)
shaft. Attach the torque wrench adapter
firmly to the shaft, place the wrench in
the adapter and slowly rotate the wrench
in a counterclockwise direction. A properly operating clutch assembly will have a
torque reading between 17 and 20 inch
pounds.
If the input torque is less than 17 inch
pounds, the clutch assembly is defective
and must be repaired or replaced.
If the torque reading is now under 4 inch
pounds, the brake is binding and should
be repaired.
If the input torque exceeds 20 inch
pounds, remove the clutch assembly
from the transmission. Secure the drive
SECTION 6. TRANSMISSION AND RELATED COMPONENTS
6-14
pinion in a vise using two (2) small blocks
of wood to prevent damage to the gear
teeth, and repeat the input torque check.
NOTE: If the "O" ring is to be reused, be
extremely careful not to damage it during the removal.
If the torque reading is between 17 and
20 inch pounds, the drive shaft is binding
in the sleeve bearings.
If the torque reading still exceeds 20 inch
pounds, the clutch assembly is defective
and must be repaired or replaced.
TRANSMISSION REMOVAL:
The transmission assembly can be removed from the washer cabinet after
removing the drive belt, spin basket,
outer tub and the suspension springs.
NOTE: Be sure to dust the base dome
lightly with cornstarch before installing
the transmission.
CAUTION
Once the agitator has been removed,
the center post slips off the shaft.
Therefore, do not attempt to handle
the drive train by the center post after
the agitator has been removed. In stead, after removing the agitator
and the agitator shaft "O" ring, slip
the center post off the shaft and
handle the drive train by the shaft.
Remove the center post, "O" ring and
agitator once the drive train is back in
place.
The transmission assembly, when removed as described, will have the related
components assembled to it. These
related components should be examined
carefully before reinstalling.
IMPORTANT
When installing the transmission, it is
necessary that the tub be located on
the tub support a certain way if all the
mounting holes are to be properly
aligned. This should be done before
attempting to mount the tub to the
bearing and seal housing.
To assist in correctly positioning the tub, a
small indentation has been formed on the
tub support just above one of the tub
brace mounting areas. This is the left
front tub brace.
When the tub is in proper position and
ready to be mounted to the tub support,
the large tub cover lock (on the side of
the tub) should be located directly above
the indentation and tub brace.