Marvel MP15CPS3RS, MP15CPS3LS, MP15CPG3LS, MP15CPP3RP, MP15CPP3LP Service Manual

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Page 1

Marvel and

Marvel Professional

Under Counter Product

Service Manual

Beverage Centers - Wine Cellars - All Refrigerators -

Refrigerated Drawers - Refrigerator Freezers - Beer

Dispensers - Outdoor Models - Clear Ice Machines

Second Edition

41013818-Rev B; August 2015

Page 2

Page 3

Section 1: Introduction

1.1 Unit Specifications

1.2 Serial Nameplate

1.2.1 Serial Description

1.3 Servicing

1.4 Basic Refrigeration Tools

1.5 Basic Installation

1.6 Electrical Requirements

Section 2: Sealed System

2.1 Introduction

2.2 Low Side Leaks

2.3 High Side Leaks

2.4 Restricted Capillary Tube

2.5 Access Valves

2.6 Evaporator Frost Pattern

2.7 Measuring Evaporator Temperatures

2.8 Re-charging

2.9 Pressure and Temperature Chart

Section 3: Sealed System Components

3.1 Toe Grille Removal

3.2 Warning and Cautions

3.3 Accessing the Machine Compartment

3.4 Compressor

3.4.1 Check Compressor Winding Resistance

3.4.2 Compressor Removal

3.4.3 Compressor Installation

3.5 Condenser

3.5.1 Condenser Removal

3.5.2 Condenser Installation

3.6 Evaporator

3.6.1 Evaporator Removal

3.6.2 Evaporator Installation

Section 4: Electrical Component Access

4.1 Condenser Fan

4.1.1 Fan Assembly Removal

4.1.2 Fan Assembly Replacement

4.1.3 Fan Motor Installation

4.1.4 Condenser Fan Blade Spacing

4.2 Evaporator Fan Access

4.3 Thermistor Locations

Section 6: Control System

6.1 User Interface Assembly

6.1.1 Removing the User Interface

6.1.2 Installing a Replacement Interface

6.2 Main Control Board Assembly

6.2.1 Main Control Replacement

6.2.2 Removing the Programming Data Cable

6.2.3 Replacing the Programming Data Cable

6.2.4 Main Control Board Installation

6.3 Cabinet and Defrost Thermistors

6.3.1 Thermistor (Sensor)

6.3.2 Check the Thermistor

6.3.3 Removing the Cabinet Thermistor

6.3.4 Installing the Cabinet Thermistor

6.3.5 Removing the Defrost Thermistor

6.3.6 Installing the Defrost Thermistor

6.3.7 Thermistor Harness Identification

6.4 Temperature Resistance Chart

6.5 Door Sensor

6.5.1 Door Sensor Removal

6.5.2 Door Sensor Replacement

6.6 Defrost Modes

6.6.1 Defrost Characteristics

6.6.2 Auto Defrost

6.6.3 Manual Defrost

6.7 Error Codes

Section 7: Lights, Doors, Drawer, & Hinges

7.1 LED Lights

7.1.1 LED Light Replacement

7.2 Cabinet Door

7.2.1 Door Removal

7.2.1.1 Marvel & non Overlay Models (standard hinge)

7.2.1.2 Marvel Pro and Overlay Models (articulating hinge)

7.2.2 Bottom Door Closer

7.3 Refrigerated Drawers

7.3.1 Drawer Removal

7.4 Door and Drawer Handle Adjust

7.5 Door Alignment and Adjust

7.6 Door and Drawer Gasket Adjust and Replace

7.7 Articulating Hinges

Section 5: User Interface Display

5.1 Model Variations

5.2 User Interface Navigation: Beverage Center

5.3 User Interface Navigation: Wine Coolers

5.4 User Interface Navigation: Refrigerated Drawers

5.5 User Interface Navigation: Beer Dispensers

Section 8: Evaporator Compartment Access

8.1 Beverage Centers

8.2 Wine Coolers

8.3 Refrigerated Drawers

8.4 Evaporator Cover Drip Edge

Page 4

Section 9: Wiring Diagrams

9.1 Block Diagram

9.2 Wiring Schematics - All

9.3 Main Power Board Identification

9.3.1 Single Zone

9.3.2 Dual Zone

Section 10: Power on Reset Mode

10.1 Auto Self-Test

10.2 Manual Auto Test

10.3 Control Types

10.3.1 Single Zone

10.3.2 Dual Zone

Section 11: Quick Reference Troubleshooting

Section 12: Diagnostic Flow Charts

12.1 Does Not Run

12.2 Too Cold

12.3 Not Cooling

12.4 Runs Continuously

12.5 Excessive Noise

12.6 LED Lighting

Section 13: Gathering Service Data

13.1 Program Port

13.1.1 Service Data Retrieval

13.1.2 Service Data Port Location

13.1.3 Onboard Diagnostics

Section 14: Beer Dispenser

14.1 Internal / External Components

14.2 Main Control Board Access

14.3 Machine Compartment

14.3.1 Refrigeration and Mechanical

14.4 Excerpts from Owners Maintenance Guide

Section 15: Dual Zones

15.1 User Interface Control

15.2 Operation

15.3 Characteristics

15.4 Compartment Air Flow

15.5 Damper Removal

15.6 Damper Operation

15.7 Compartment Fan Operation

15.8 Heater Operation

15.9 Thermistors

15.10 Evaporator Access

15.11 Interior LEDs

15.12 Defrost – Drip Time

15.12.1 Defrost Sequence

15.13 Refrigeration & Mechanical

Section 16: Refrigerator Freezers

16.1 User Interface Control

16.2 Operation

16.3 Characteristics

16.4 Damper Operation

16.4.1 Damper Access

16.5 Fan Operation

16.5.1 Refrigerator Supply Air

16.5.2 Freezer Supply Air

16.6 Thermistors

16.6.1 Thermistor Type

16.6.2 Thermistor Location

16.7 Refrigeration and Mechanical

16.8 Evaporator

16.8.1 Evaporator Type

16.8.2 Evaporator Location

16.9 Defrost

16.9.1 Defrost Function

16.9.2 Defrost Heater

16.9.3 Defrost Thermistor

16.9.4 Defrost Termination Thermostat

16.9.5 Defrost Drip Time

16.10 Access to Defrost Components

16.10.1 Defrost Heater

16.10.2 Defrost Termination Thermostat

16.10.3 Defrost Thermistor

16.11 RFI (Refrigerator Freezer with Ice Maker)

16.11.1 Ice Maker

16.11.1.1 Ice Maker Specs

16.11.1.2 Ice Maker Test Cycling

16.11.1.3 Water Flow Volume

16.11.2 Ice Maker Removal

16.11.3 Ice Maker Kit

16.11.3.1 Ice Maker Kit Installation Instructions

16.11.3.2 Installation Schematic

Section 17: Outdoor Models

17.1 Operation

17.2 Characteristics

17.3 Fan Operation

17.4 Thermistors

17.5 Control Type

17.6 Control Features

17.7 Control Locations by Model

17.7.1 Beverage Centers and Dispensers: 6 cu. ft.

17.7.2 Beverage Center: 3 cu. ft.

17.7.3 Refrigerated Drawers

17.8 Machine Compartment

17.9 Main Power Board Access

17.10 Display Access and Replacement

17.10.1 Beverage Center: 3 cu. ft.

17.10.2 Beverage Centers and Dispensers: 6 cu. ft.

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17.10.3 Refrigerated Drawers: 6 cu. ft.

17.11 Thermistor Resistance Chart

17.12 Wiring Diagram

17.13 Generic Troubleshooting Table

17.13.1 Refrigerated Drawers

17.13.2 Beverage Centers and Dispensers

17.14 Refrigeration and Mechanical

Section 18: Prime Control

18.1 Control Type

18.2 Control Functions

18.3 Fan Operation

18.4 Thermistors

18.5 Machine Compartment

18.6 Thermistor Resistance

18.7 Wiring Diagram

18.8 Generic Troubleshooting Table

18.9 Refrigeration and Mechanical

19.6 Diagnostic Charts

19.7 Troubleshooting

19.8 VAC Wiring Diagram

19.9 Specifications

19.10 Ice Production & Harvest Guidelines

Section 20: Service Kits/Bulletins

20.1 Refrigerated Drawer – Mullion Heater Kit

20.2 Evaporator Replacement Kit (also refer to section 3.6)

20.3 Door Sensor and Spacer Installation

20.4. Slotted Condenser Shroud

20.5 Showroom Mode Alarm

20.6 Evaporator and Heat Exchanger Replacement (RF and RFI Models Only)

20.7 Shelf Shim Kit (Non-Professional Models)

20.8 Miscellaneous Control Communication Errors

20.9 Door Skin Replacement on MP Models

Section 19: Clear Ice Machines

19.1 Control Operations

19.2 Control System

19.3 Interior Features

19.4 Machine Compartment

19.5 Diagnostic Test Mode

Section 21: Customer Service Contact Information

Section 22: Notes

 Blank Pages Added

At the time of the release of this manual; all information, parts, and procedures were current. AGA Marvel reserves the right to make continual changes with the product to strive for continuous improvement. For product updates, revised literature, or related service bulletins please visit our customer service website www.marvelservice.com A username and password will be needed to access this website, if you currently do not have access, please contact 1-800-223-3900. If you would like to speak with a Customer Service representative for technical or part order assistance, call 1-800-223-3900. Please follow the phone queue to the correct department to avoid unnecessary delays.

iii

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(Single Zone) WINE COOLERS, BEVERAGE CENTERS, ALL REFRIGERATORS

Performance Data: No Load & No Door Openings @ Control Setting of Mid

Type A with Run Capacitor

65°F (18°C) Ambient

90°F (32°C) Ambient

Operating Time

8 - 15% (wine cooler)

15 - 35% (beverage center / refrigerator)

20 - 40% (wine cooler)

35 - 55% (beverage center/refrigerator)

Wine Cooler Temperature

40°F - 65°F

Beverage Center / All Refrigerator Temperature

34°F - 42°F

Low Side Pressure (cut in)

25 - 50 psig (172 - 345 kPa)

Low Side Pressure (cut out)

0 - 10 psig (0 - 69 kPa)

HIgh Side Pressure (last 1/3 of cycle)

95 - 125 psig (655 - 862 kPa)

130 - 175 psig (896 - 1207 kPa)

Wattage (last 1/3 of cycle)

55 - 80

Amps (running)

.45 - .85

Base Voltage

115 VAC (127 VAC max)

R-134A Charge in Ounces: 3.0

Compressor

120 volt/60 hertz

BTU/HR: 200

LRA: 5.22

Condenser Fan Motor

Watts

RPM

Amps

4.1

1280

0.06

Evaporator Fan Motor

Watts

RPM

Amps

1.08

2550

0.09

REFRIGERATED DRAWERS

Performance Data: No Load & No Door Openings @ Control Setting of Mid

Type A with Run Capacitor

65°F (18°C) Ambient

90°F (32°C) Ambient

Operating Time

8 - 15%

20 - 40%

Temperature

34°F - 42°F

Low Side Pressure (cut in)

25 - 50 psig (172 - 345 kPa)

Low Side Pressure (cut out)

0 - 10 psig (0 - 69 kPa)

HIgh Side Pressure (last 1/3 of cycle)

95 - 125 psig (655 - 862 kPa)

130 - 175 psig (896 - 1207 kPa)

Wattage (last 1/3 of cycle)

55 - 80

Amps (running)

.45 - .85

Base Voltage

115 VAC (127 VAC max)

R-134A Charge in Ounces: 3.0

Compressor

120 volt/60 hertz

BTU/HR: 200

LRA: 5.22

Condenser Fan Motor

Watts

RPM

Amps

4.1

1280

0.06

Evaporator Fan Motor

Watts

RPM

Amps

1.08

2550

0.09

Section 1: Introduction

1.1 Unit Specifications:

Page 7

1.2 Serial Nameplate:

The serial plate location is model dependent on the beverage centers, wine coolers and refrigerated drawer models. The serial plate is located on the inside of the cabinet affixed to the left hand side (top or bottom) of the plastic liner.

 Beverage centers and wine coolers: Upper front corner on left hand side of liner.  Refrigerated drawers: Left hand liner bottom, front side beneath the bottom drawer.

NOTE: The model, service, and serial number will need to be given when

inquiring about the unit or ordering parts.

1.2.1 Serial Number Description:

EXAMPLE: 20140509040H

Breakdown of the 12 Digit Serial Number: Read the number sequence from left to right: Digit number 1 thru 4 (2014) Year of manufacture (2014) Digit number 5 and 6 (05) Month of manufacture (May) Digit number 7 and 8 (09) Day of manufacture (09; 9) Digit number 9 thru 11 (040) Sequence of manufacture Digit number 12 (H) Manufacturing facility (Greenville)

Page 8

1.3 Servicing

• Always disconnect power to any appliance before attempting to service it. Always verify

that the power has been disconnected.

• If the unit has been running, use caution around the compressor, condenser and copper

tubing. These areas may be very hot.

• Use caution around the condenser wires and metal edges. These areas could be sharp.

• Refrigerant is under high pressure. Always evacuate any system before attempting to

open it.

• Reasonable care and safe work methods should be practiced when working on any

appliance.

• Never work with energized electrical equipment in wet or damp areas.

• Use an appropriate work area and location when performing repairs. Under counter

appliances are much easier to repair if they are set on a raised platform or workbench.

• Protective safety glasses are recommended.

• Any refrigerant, whether CFC, HCFC, or HFC (R-12, R-22, or R-134a), must be recovered.

Federal regulations prohibit the intentional venting or release of refrigerants during the service repair or disposal of an appliance.

1.4 Basic Refrigeration Tools

The following list contains some of the tools required for basic refrigeration repairs:

1. Hoses with R-134a couplers (must meet standards for handling R-134a refrigerant)

2. Approved and certified recovery system for R-134a

3. Manifold gauge set or a short length of charging hose for R-134a

4. 25 pound charging cylinder with R-134a

5. Electronic refrigerant scale

6. Access valves or process kit

7. Pinch off tool

8. Small, fine grade, 3-corner file or appropriate cap tube cutting tool

9. Small and large tubing cutter

10. Oxy-Acetylene or Map-Pro torch

11. Swaging tools

12. Digital multi meter

13. Leak detection equipment

14. Standard hand tools (assorted Phillips and standard screwdrivers, sockets, Allen

wrenches, combination wrenches / adjustable wrenches, needle nose / slip joint pliers etc.)

15. Rivet gun and assorted rivets

16. Drill motor with assorted drill bits and hex head sockets

17. Wire strippers and crimpers

Page 9

1.5 Basic Installation

 Units can be installed freestanding* or built-in. The front of the unit must be

unobstructed for proper air circulation and operation at all times.

 NOTE: * Professional and overlay door models cannot be installed free standing. Units

with the “Articulating Hinge” must be installed as built-in due to safety restraints.

 Area should be ventilated and without exposure to extreme temperatures.  Unit must be installed indoors and away from the elements of nature. These units do

not have certification from any agency for outdoor installation.

 Any exceptions, alterations, or modifications to the appliance as manufactured will void

the warranty.

 These units must be installed on a flat, level surface capable of supporting the loaded

weight of the appliance.

WARNING HAZARD OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK

Failure to disconnect the supply voltage to the appliance prior to servicing could result in an electrical shock or possible death.

1.6 Electrical Requirements

 115 / 120 VAC, 60 hertz, single phase power is required.  Use an outlet with a 15 amp delayed action fuse or circuit breaker. DO NOT PUT A FUSE

ON THE NEUTRAL OR GROUND SIDE OF THE CIRCUIT.

 A properly grounded outlet is required for this appliance.  It is recommended that a single circuit receptacle be used for this appliance. Multiple

appliances on the same electrical circuit are not recommended.

 DO NOT use an extension cord or multi-purpose surge protector device.

Page 10

Section 2: Sealed System

2.1 Introduction

The following should always be practiced with any sealed system that has been opened. Only open the sealed system after proper diagnosis has verified a system issue. Eliminate any possible non system related problems such as wiring, control system, airflow, etc. before attempting a sealed system repair. Many times these possibilities can resemble sealed system problems. Checking the evaporator frost pattern is a great way to determine if a possible charge related problem is evident.

1. Use a leak detection system that will detect R-134a refrigerant. Check both the high and

low sides slowly for minuscule leaks.

2. The drier must be replaced anytime the sealed system is opened. Always use an

unopened and approved drier. Failure to do so may cause repeated system failure in the future.

3. Limit time the system is opened. DO NOT EXPOSE THE OPEN SYSTEM FOR MORE THAN

15 MINUTES. This could result in a sealed system failure. Leave replacement parts sealed and unexposed to the surrounding atmosphere until they are ready to install.

4. Replacing the compressor for a low side leak is not always mandatory. If the system has

not been purged dry of refrigerant and oil as a result of a low side leak, the sealed system should not be compromised. However, if the system has been purged completely of refrigerant, a compressor replacement should be completed. Moisture has been drawn into the system if the unit has been running dry for an extended period of time. Be sure to flush the system with dry nitrogen gas and evacuate to 50 microns before re-charging.

5. A new evaporator assembly must be ordered if the capillary tube is found to be plugged

or severely restricted. Restrictions cannot be flushed out.

6. Be sure to purge the system after final brazing. This will flush out any air or moisture

that may have entered the system before being absorbed into the ester oil.

7. A sealed system that has been contaminated by moisture is a very costly repair for the

customer. If the appliance is still under warranty, it would be best to contact the manufacture for recommendations for either a sealed system replacement or appliance replacement.

2.2 Low Side Leaks

Low side leaks consist of a break in the system at the evaporator, suction line, or compressor. If a leak is found in any of these areas, there is a possibility that moisture has been introduced into the sealed system. The compressor and drier will have to be replaced and the system will need to be flushed thoroughly with nitrogen gas and evacuated to 50 microns before recharging.

Page 11

2.3 High Side Leaks

High side leaks consist of a break in the system at the compressor, condenser, discharge tubing, drier, or capillary tube. If a leak is found at any of these areas, replace or repair the leak. Flush the system with nitrogen gas, evacuated to 50 microns, and recharged.

2.4 Restricted Capillary Tube

Moisture or other contaminants that enter the system can cause non condensable deposits in the system. These deposits will usually collect in the capillary tube and form a restriction that cannot be removed by flushing. If moisture is found in the system, the entire system has been compromised due to the unstable relationship between ester oil and moisture.

For non-moisture related restrictions: If the capillary tube is restricted, typically the restriction is at the inlet end, inserted into the drier. This can be repaired by cutting off approximately 1” of capillary tube, inserting the cut end into a new drier, and re-soldering the joint. If the leak is elsewhere in the capillary tube, it would be best to replace the evaporator / heat exchanger assembly, pull a satisfactory vacuum and recharge.

2.5 Access/Process Valves

A temporary access valve can be used to service or evaluate the system. From these temporary access valves, you can recover, evacuate, and re-charge the system. The access valve will be installed on the compressor’s process tube (low pressure side). Be sure to cap off the access valve if you have not completed servicing. This will prevent contamination of the system and temporarily prevent refrigerant from leaking. After servicing is complete, the temporary valve must be removed from the sealed system. A pinch-off tool can be used to close off the process tube downstream from the valve piercing. Once this is done, the temporary valve can be removed and the pierced section of the process tube cut off. The open end of the process tube can now be soldered/brazed shut to seal the system. Be sure to leak check after brazing. If a permanent soldered/brazed Schrader valve is used, the cap must be snugged firmly after service is completed.

2.6 Evaporator Frost Pattern

In the past Marvel has always recommended not using a gauge set to determine system capacity and pressures. The amount of refrigerant in these systems is so minute, that any amount of charge lost during gauge installation or removal can be detrimental to the refrigeration system. It was determined that checking the frost pattern on the evaporator was always a good indicator for reference. The following procedure was recommended to check a typical cold plate evaporator:

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“Checking the evaporator frost pattern is a good way to quickly diagnose simple sealed system problems. This can be done by allowing the unit to run (at least 10 minutes) with the door open for at least 5 minutes. This will help speed up the normal frosting of the evaporator plate. By visually inspecting the evaporator and feeling it with your hands, you will see and feel as the frost pattern builds across the plate. The frost pattern should cover a majority of the evaporator plate. This will ensure the system has been charged correctly and does not have a leak, partial restriction, or is undercharged. A

partial frost pattern may lead to excessive run times, reduced performance and efficiency.”

With the design of the new enhanced cabinet and low side design, checking the evaporator plate in the above description has become somewhat complicated. As an alternative to the above method, we offer two varying methods.

1) The first method is similar to the above. However, with the compressor running, the

interior evaporator cover must be removed, the evaporator fan disconnected, and the door left open for observation for 10 minutes. The evaporator plate should show a slight full frost pattern similar to the photo below with a typical factory refrigerant charge as stamped on the manufacturer’s serial plate.

2) The second method which is somewhat unproven at this time is to measure the

temperature of the filter drier. A rule of thumb is that the drier temperature should be approximately 90° F at a 70° F ambient temperature.

 AGA Marvel does not recommend taking system pressures and does not have a

reference table to use for diagnosing or charging.

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2.7 Measuring Evaporator Temperature

Vacuum Chart

Vacuum: Inches Hg.

Microns

28.94

25000

29.53

10000

29.832

4600

29.882

1000 29.901

500 29.915

150 29.917

100

29.919

THIS IS A CRITICALLY CHARGED APPLIANCE

Charging by a weight system is recommended.

There are a couple of ways to measure temperature of the evaporator plate:

1. Use a thermocouple to measure the temperature of the evaporator plate. The

thermocouple must be secured to the evaporator when taking the measurement.

2. If it has been determined that there is proper contact between the sensor and

evaporator plate, the sensor resistance value can be interpolated to be the approximate evaporator temperature.

2.8 Re-charging

CAUTION

Re-charging of the unit should be done only after diagnosing and repairing the system. Be sure to flush the system with dry nitrogen gas and evacuate to 50 microns before re-charging.

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Vacuum Pump Tips:

1) Remember to change vacuum pump oil after evacuating a

contaminated system.

2) Frequent oil changes will increase the pumps potential to

achieve the best vacuum possible.

3) Use recommended oil per recommendation of vacuum pump

manufacturer.

Charge the unit to the specified amount (See unit specifications or serial plate for charge specifications per model).

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Listed below are two variations to correctly charge the sealed system

 Method 1- DIAL-A-CHARGE  Method 2- Weigh in Liquid on High Side

DIAL-A-CHARGE Method

Using a length of manifold hose, connect one end to the manifold, the other end to the weighted charging cylinder. Adjust cylinder to weigh in the correct amount of refrigerant into system based on nameplate charge. It is best to use low loss fittings on hoses to avoid loss of charge when removing hoses. Purge air from cylinder hose to manifold by loosening cylinder hose at manifold and bleeding liquid through hose to manifold. Open manifold and charge unit. Run unit for at least 10 minutes to confirm that the unit has a full frost pattern on the evaporator and that the unit is not overcharged and there is no liquid returning back to the compressor. It is normal to have some condensation or slight frost on the suction line. Typically this will occur towards the end of a run cycle. If the frost continues down the suction line to the compressor, the system is overcharged. Once the system is charged, clamp off the process tube downstream from the access valve. Remove the valve, cut off the extra process tube with the piercing, fill the open end of the process tube with solder. Remove the clamp from the process tube and leak check.

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Weigh in Liquid on High Side Method

NOTE: When using this method an access valve should have been attached to the compressor process tube (low side) and the high side process tube on the drier.

Using a length of manifold hose, connect one end to the manifold, the other end to the refrigerant cylinder. It is best to use low loss fittings on hoses to avoid loss of charge when removing hoses. Purge air from cylinder hose to manifold by loosening cylinder hose at manifold and bleeding liquid through hose to manifold. Set refrigerant cylinder on scale and turn scale on allowing it to stabilize and then zero scale. Open manifold high side port and carefully charge unit to nameplate weight of charge by watching scale. Once the appropriate charge is weighed in, allow pressures to equalize. Run unit for at least 10 minutes to confirm that the unit has a full frost pattern on the evaporator and that the unit is not overcharged and there is no liquid returning back to the compressor. It is normal to have some condensation or slight frost on the suction line. Typically this will occur towards the end of a run cycle. If the frost continues down the suction line to the compressor, the system is overcharged. Once the system is charged, clamp off the process tube downstream from the access valve. Remove the valve, cut off the extra process tube with the piercing, fill the open end of the process tube with solder. Remove the clamp from the process tube and leak check.

If you are using a soldered access fitting be sure to remove high side hose after the system has equalized and before starting unit to check frost pattern. Cap access fittings tightly and leak check system with unit off so that pressures are equalized throughout the system.

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2.9 Temperature / Pressure Chart

F°

R-134A (PSIG)

F°

R-134A (PSIG)

F°

R-134A (PSIG)

F°

R-134A (PSIG)

-30.6

31.1

61.23

121.5

175

-27.02

32.27

123.3

180

-23.7

33.43

62.75

125.2

185

-20.59

34.56

62.5

126.9

190

-17.67

35.68

64.24

128.7

195

-14.92

36.77

64.98

130.4

200

-12.31

37.85

65.71

132.1

205

-9.84

38.91

66.43

133.8

210

-7.47

39.96

67.14

135.5

215

-5.21

40.99

67.85

137.1

220

-3.04 5 42

68.55

138.7

225

-0.95 6 43

69.24

140.2

230

1.05

43.98

72.62

141.8

235

2.99

44.95

75.86

143.3

240

4.86

45.91

78.98

144.8

245

6.67

46.85

81.97

146.3

250

8.42

47.78

84.87

147.7

255

10.12

48.7

86.66

100

149.2

260

11.77

49.61

90.37

105

150.6

265

13.38

50.51

92.99

110

152

270

14.94

51.39

95.53

115

153.4

275

16.46

52.26

120

154.7

280

17.95

53.13

100.4

125

156.1

285

19.4

53.98

102.7

130

157.4

290

20.81

54.82

105

135

158.7

295

22.19

55.65

107.2

140

160

300

23.55

56.48

109.4

145

161.3

305

24.87

57.29

111.5

150

162.5

310

26.16

58.1

113.6

155

163.8

315

27.43

58.89

115.6

160

165

320

28.68

59.68

117.6

165

166.2

325

29.9

60.46

119.6

170

167.4

330

Page 17

Section 3: Sealed System Components

Remove each Phillip screws on both ends of

the toe grill.

The oval toe grill spacer is visible in the above

picture.

Right and left hand views of the toe grill, screen and spacer.

3.1. Toe Grill Removal

1. Remove both Phillips screws on each end of the toe grill.

2. There is an oval spacer held in place by each screw, located behind the toe grill. This is

to help give an aesthetic appearance once the grill is adjusted and tightened.

Page 18

NOTE: When reinstalling the toe grill care must be taken to be sure that the

CORRECT wire position- Inside grommet.

INCORRECT WIRE POSITION.

Grommet after toe grill

is removed.

communication cable is routed through the correct area in the toe grill.

 The below left hand photo shows the correct routing of the communication

cable, it must pass freely with clearance on all sides.

 The below right hand photo shows the incorrect routing of the communication

cable. It is very easy for the cable to end up in this position if care is not taken when reinstalling the toe grill. This is a critical pinch spot and will create a service call in the future with either a frayed or cut cable.

 NOTE: Always ensure that the plastic cable grommet is installed

correctly.

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3.2: Warnings and Cautions

WARNING

Prior to removing the access cover to the machine compartment, disconnect the supply voltage to the appliance; failure to do this could result in an electrical shock or possible death.

CAUTION

All electrical parts and wiring must be shielded from torch flame. DO NOT allow torch to touch insulation; the insulation will char at 200°F and flash ignite (burn) at 500°F. Excessive heat will distort the plastic liner.

3.3 Accessing the Mechanical Compartment

Access to the mechanical compartment is located at the rear of the unit. Most mechanical and electrical components on the unit mount directly to the slide out base. To gain access to the mechanical section proceed as follows, be sure to reference the photos as called out.

1. For access to the machine compartment remove the screws securing the

compartment panel at the rear of the cabinet.

2. For additional service needs it may be necessary to slide the machine compartment

assembly out. Proceed with the following steps.

3. Back out the two Phillips screws (1 on each side) on the toe grill.

4. Once the toe grill is removed, it will be necessary to remove all four screws (two on

each side) to loosen the mechanical assembly from the front.

5. At the rear bottom corner of the unit two (1 on each side) 5/16” hex head screws can

be removed.

6. The mechanical section can now be slid out no more than 2 - 4” maximum until the

suction line has been unsoldered from the compressor*.

 WARNING: The refrigeration system must be evacuated prior to unsoldering

the compressor or any other system related component.

7. CAUTION: To avoid kinking the suction line assembly - do not slide the mechanical

base outward past the 4” maximum recommended above.

Page 20

Remove both top

and bottom screws

on each side.

Remove all perimeter 5/16”screws

that secure the back panel – DO

NOT remove the 5/16” hex screws

in the bottom left and right hand

side corners, or the Philips head

ground screws.

Remove both Phillips

screws and grill.

Page 21

Remove both screws.

Maximum distance to

remove bottom of

machine

compartment: 2 - 4”

2 - 4”

Page 22

3.4: Compressor

The following tests should be conducted before concluding the compressor is faulty.

1. Low and high side pressure, temperature of compressor, discharge and suction lines,

temperature of air leaving the evaporator compartment, temperature of condenser coil, condenser fan operation, and amp draw at compressor.

2. Use a compressor start cord to isolate and test the compressor.

3. Use an ohmmeter to measure resistance / continuity at the compressor to check for

shorted or grounded windings.

a. Resistance between the “Common” and “Run” terminals: this will be the lowest

ohm reading obtained.

b. Resistance between the “Common” and the “Start” terminals: this will be the

mid-range ohm reading obtained.

c. Resistance between the “Start” and “Run” terminals: this will be the highest ohm

reading obtained (This should equal the combined total of the previous two readings).

d. No resistance between any two terminals signifies an open winding. e. Check continuity between compressor terminals and the compressor itself

(Scrape off a little paint on compressor to make sure that resistance can be measured). If continuity is obtained, the compressor is grounded and needs to be replaced.

3.4.1: Check Compressor Winding Resistance:

Page 23

3.4.2: Remove the Compressor

1. Disconnect power to the unit.

2. Follow the exact steps outlined in “Sealed System Components” to access the

compressor.

3. Using the process tubes, install sealed system access valves and recover refrigerant.

4. Remove the TSD2 starter package from the compressor terminals.

5. Unsolder and remove the discharge and suction lines from the compressor.

6. Unsolder and remove the filter / drier.

7. Cap all refrigeration lines: It is advisable that all exposed refrigeration lines be capped

if the system will be exposed to the atmosphere for any length of time.

8. Remove the three 7/16” nuts, washers and grounding screw from compressor

mounting bolts. There is no nut and washer at the back, left hand mounting position.

9. Lift the compressor off the mounting bolts.

3.4.3: Install a New Compressor

1. Do not remove the rubber plugs from the compressor tubes at this time.

2. Install the four (4) rubber grommets onto the compressor base.

3. Install the three sleeves where the carriage bolts are located.

4. Mount the compressor into position on the mechanical base.

5. Install the three washers and lock nuts and tighten snuggly into place. Do not over

tighten.

6. Install and solder a new filter drier in the system.

7. Remove rubber plugs from compressor tubes.

8. Solder a new process tube to compressor.

9. Solder the discharge and suction lines back into compressor.

10. Re-install TSD2 starter package to compressor terminals.

11. Connect service ports to both the high and low sides of system.

12. Evacuate, charge to serial plate recommendation, and leak check the sealed system.

13. Push the mechanical base assembly back into place.

14. Secure base assembly to cabinet at rear and front locations.

15. Replace the front grill and back panel.

3.5: Condenser

The condenser is of tube and wire construction. It is draw through; forced air technology used for heat transfer. The front grill facilitates both intake and exhaust air. A fiber board air baffle is located between the front grill and the rear machine compartment access panel. This baffle separates the air intake (left hand side) and exhaust (right hand side) across the condenser.

Page 24

A common problem with this system is restricted air flow caused by lint, dust, dirt, and pet hair.

Disconnect recommended

connectors.

These particles become built up on the condenser and results in overheating due to the lack of sub-cooling across the coil.

NOTE: Another important factor is that the free air space on the toe grill

cannot be altered to meet a certain design criteria. Any modifications could jeopardize the integrity of the appliance performance.

3.5.1: Remove the Condenser

1. Disconnect power to the unit.

2. Follow the exact steps outlined in “Sealed System Components”.

3. Install sealed system access valves and recover refrigerant.

4. Except for the “Data” and the “Communication” cable, all small connections must be

disconnected from the main power board. These two cables will stay with the mechanical base and removed from the cabinet assembly. In addition the two larger connectors DO NOT have to be disconnected from the board.

5. Unsolder and remove the filter / drier.

6. Unsolder and remove the discharge and liquid lines from the condenser.

7. Using a 3/8” nut driver or socket, remove (1) 3/8” nut securing each condenser

mounting bracket to the mechanical base.

8. The condenser assembly can now be removed from the base assembly.

9. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the condenser brackets from each side of the

condenser. The brackets will slide out once the screws are removed.

10. It is advisable that the un-soldered copper tubes be capped if the system will be

exposed to the atmosphere for any length of time.

Page 25

Slide out the bottom of the machine

compartment far enough to unsolder

condenser lines.

Condenser can be lifted away from bottom

assembly after following step 7 above.

NOTE: On machine compartments with LEFT HAND SWING doors, a shield is added to prevent the communication cable from being drawn into the condenser coil. It is anchored using the same nut which secures the condenser mounting bracket.

The above bracket is used on LEFT HAND

SWING doors to anchor the back end of the

communication cable.

3.5.2: Install a New Condenser

1. If necessary, reattach the mounting brackets to each side of the condenser with the

Phillips screws and washers previously removed.

2. Ensure that the carriage bolts for mounting the condenser brackets are in place on

the bottom of the machine compartment.

3. Install the new condenser with brackets over the mounting studs and secure with the

nuts previously removed.

4. Install and solder the discharge and liquid lines to condenser.

5. Install and solder a new filter drier in the system.

6. Evacuate, charge to serial plate recommendation, and leak check the sealed system.

Page 26

7. Carefully reconnect all electrical terminals back on the terminal board.

8. Carefully push slide-in mechanical base plate assembly back under cabinet.

9. Secure base assembly to cabinet at rear and front locations.

10. Secure base assembly and toe grill.

3.6: Evaporator

The evaporator removes heat from the inside of the unit ultimately making the interior of the appliance cold. The evaporator plate is flat in appearance (cold plate) and is installed behind the coil cover. It is normal for the evaporator to frost up during its run cycle. This frost will dissipate once the unit reaches its “cut out” temperature and the compressor and fan stop. This condensate water will drop off the evaporator plate and down into the tapered sump area formed in the cabinet. The condensate will then drain down into the compressor condensate pan where it will evaporate. It is very important that the evaporator frosts in a uniform pattern across the plate. A partial frost pattern can lead to excessive run times and cooling issues. Supply air is drawn across the evaporator plate from the evaporator fan and into the cabinet interior through the supply louvers located at the bottom of the coil cover.

NOTE: Refer to Section 19 for a Service Bulletin regarding the removal of the Evaporator / Heat Exchanger Assembly.

3.6.1: Remove the Evaporator

CAUTION Sharp burrs can result in cuts.

1. Disconnect power to the unit.

2. Use steps in Section 8 for access to evaporator compartment.

3. Follow the exact steps outlined in “Sealed System Components”.

4. Install sealed system access valves and recover refrigerant.

NOTE: The evaporator heat exchanger is foamed in place in the back

cabinet wall.

If an evaporator replacement is necessary, the heat exchanger will have to be cut at the point it enters the foamed cabinet (behind evaporator plate). The suction line will also have to be cut at the point where it enters the foamed cabinet from the machine compartment.

5. Remove the white foam evaporator spacers. Save as they will be used for the new

evaporator assembly.

6. Remove the evaporator and discard, caution of sharp edges from the cut tubing.

7. Unsolder suction line from compressor and discard, again use caution of sharp edges

surrounding cut heat exchanger.

Page 27

8. Remove liquid and capillary lines from filter drier.

Cut away suction line at the above locations.

Drill a ½” hole downward into machine

compartment. See recommendations in step 9

above.

Extend new assembly through the hole. Make

sure ends are capped.

Install vibration isolator on heat exchanger

assembly behind evaporator.

Cut the suction tube extension to connect the

compressor to the suction line.

9. Drill a ½” hole in the left hand corner of the drain sump as close to the side wall as

possible. The hole must extend into the machine compartment.

10. Remove any sharp burrs on the roof of the machine compartment created by the

drill bit.

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3.6.2: Install a New Evaporator

NOTE: A replacement evaporator assembly (42249079) will include the

following components:

 (1) Evaporator heat exchanger assembly  (1) Filter drier  (1) Pre bent suction tube extension  (1) Vibration Isolator  (2) Nylon zip tie fasteners  (2) Pieces of permagum

1. Take the replacement evaporator and unroll the capillary tube on the heat exchanger.

2. Absolutely make sure that the ends of the capillary tube and suction line are well

capped. Wrap both ends with tape to insure that no foam enter the tubing when

passing it through the ½” drilled hole. Any foam that is allowed in the tubing will

compromise the sealed system.

3. Once the new evaporator is in place, the extended suction line into the machine

compartment will have to be bent (thumbs and forefingers) at an angle towards the compressor.

4. Carefully recoil the capillary tube.

5. Install a new filter drier and solder the capillary and liquid line in place.

6. The kit will include a section of pre-bent suction line. The bent side will be soldered into

the compressor.

7. Use a 3/8”swedging tool to expand the opposite end of the suction extension to fit over

the new suction line extending into the machine compartment. This connection can now be soldered.

8. Evacuate, charge to serial plate recommendation, and leak check the sealed system.

9. The kit also includes a rubber vibration isolator, place this onto the heat exchanger

behind the evaporator to protect against tube rattles between the evaporator and cabinet liner.

10. Replace the defrost thermistor and attach with the two zip lock fasteners in the kit.

11. Place one piece of permagum around the new evaporator opening in the interior of the

cabinet. Make sure that it is worked into and around the hole to seal off any moisture or heat.

12. Use the second piece of permagum and also work that into and around the hole in the

machine compartment where the new heat exchanger exits the liner.

13. Re-install the white foam spacers. The spacers have an off center cut on one side, place

the fat side of the spacer (the thickest foam slot) towards the back wall of the liner.

14. Reassemble the coil cover and interior components in reverse order as removed.

15. Reinstall the machine compartment back in place and secure in place at the front and

rear of the cabinet.

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Section 4: Electrical Component Access

Remove bolt and nut.

Loosen tape.

NOTE: Refer to Section 19 for a Service Bulletin regarding the removal of the

Condenser Fan Assembly.

4.1: Condenser Fan

The condenser fan is used to force air over the condenser coil. The condenser fan cycles on and off simultaneously along with the compressor.

1. Make sure that the motor shaft turns freely. The blade can be turned in either direction

to verify that the shaft is not ceased or the blade binding. Watch the blade and listen for any noise that might indicate a problem.

2. Check resistance between the terminals of the motors power cord. Replace the motor if

the windings are shorted (open).

4.1.1: Fan Assembly Removal

1. Remove Phillips head screw securing the condenser fan shroud.

2. Loosen the tape that holds the fiber board divider to the rear of the fan shroud.

3. Remove the white and red wires attached to the compressor electrical package.

4. Push both the white and red wires all the way though the black perforated plug.

5. Turn the rear of the fan shroud assembly towards your right (clockwise) as far as

possible.

6. Tip the fan assembly forward until it clears the top of the machine compartment.

7. The fan assembly can now clear the mechanical compartment.

8. Disconnect the fan assembly at the connector harness.

Page 30

Disconnect red and white wires.

Pull wire through grommet.

Rotate shroud to right.

Tip shroud forward.

Lay shroud flat.

Disconnect connector.

Page 31

Exploded View of Condenser Fan assembly

4.1.2: Condenser Fan Replacement

1. Remove the three Phillips screws on the rear of the motor bracket to replace fan motor.

4.1.3: Fan Assembly Installation

1. Prior to reassembling the condenser fan assembly locate the slotted tab on the bottom

of the machine compartment.

2. Next locate the notched recess on the bottom of the shroud assembly.

3. Upon assembly, the notched slot on the shroud assembly needs to slide in the slotted

tab on the compartment bottom.

Page 32

4. Once secure, the condenser wire harness along with the white and red compressor

Bracket mounting tab.

Bracket mounting slot.

wires can be reconnected and the tape from the fiber board can be reattached to the

fan shroud.

5. Reattach the assembly to the rear using the screw previously removed.

4.1.4: Condenser Fan Blade Spacing

If the condenser fan blade has been removed from the motor shaft the fan blade must be

properly re-spaced to achieve the optimal performance from the condenser.

 The correct distance from the tip of the fan blade to the front of the shroud is 9/16” (.56”)

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4.2: Evaporator Fan Access

For all models, with the exception of the beer dispenser, the evaporator fan draws air from the refrigerated space through the bottom supply air louvers, across the evaporator plate, and then re-distributes it back into the cabinet through the fan itself. The beer dispenser fan has reversed air flow. The evaporator fan is installed with the writing on the motor hub facing the rear of the cabinet; this creates a draw through application, pushing the air downward across the evaporator plate and out the bottom louvers on the evaporator cover.

To access the evaporator fan, follow the steps below:

1. Remove all shelving.

2. Remove decorative plastic screw caps.

3. Remove screws around the perimeter of the back panel.

4. If the appliance has cantilever shelving, the rails will have to be removed to expose the

screw caps and screws securing the back panel.

5. Additionally with cantilever shelving the rear screw on thermistor shield will need to be

removed as the thermistor is fed through the cantilever bracket.

6. The back panel is slotted mid-way up on the left hand side. This is to accommodate the

thermistor.

7. The rear panel can now be removed.

8. The disconnect plug for the evaporator fan motor is located in the upper right hand

corner.

9. See note on page 28 regarding air flow direction.

NOTE: As of mid-August 2015, a rear fan guard was added to the fan assemblies on the beverage center models. The fan guard is to eliminate the possibility of wires getting caught in the fan blade from behind the coil cover.

The approximate serial number range is 20150824xxxH. This is an approximate date and some variation may be seen in the field.

An exploded view on the following page shows the assembly drawing of the coil cover components along with both the front and rear fan guards.

Page 34

Fan location – do not attempt to

remove from this view. Remove

coil cover first.

Disconnect all shelving and associated mounting

brackets first – see above instructions

This exploded view drawing shows

the front and rear fan guard. As

mentioned on the previous page, the

additional rear fan guard was added

to outdoor beverage centers and

beverage dispensers to prevent wire

interference.

Page 35

Remove thermistor from

the shield.

Fan assembly attached to rear of coil cover.

Disconnect fan at harness

connection.

Supply Air Flow: Blow through fan type. NOTE: Beer dispensers have reversed air

flow (draw through).

NOTE: Newer beverage center models made

after 20150824xxxH also have a rear fan

guard.

Page 36

Refrigerated Drawers

Location: Midpoint on

left hand side wall.

Remove the four screws from the front of

the coil cover to remove either fan.

Most Models: Evaporator Air Flow: Fan is a blow through type. Specification label facing forward, the blade rotates clockwise as you face the hub.

Beer Dispensers: Evaporator fan (draw through). Specification label facing towards rear, the blade rotates counter-clockwise as you face the hub.

4.3: Thermistor Locations

The following shows typical thermistor locations

Cabinet Thermistor Locations

Page 37

Wine Coolers

Beverage Centers

Location: Midpoint on

Location: Top left hand

corner of evaporator.

Defrost Thermistor Location

Page 38

Section 5: User Interface Display

5.1 Model Variations

NOTE: The User Interface Display appearance between the Glass Door and Solid Door / Drawer models. The Light key is missing on Solid Door and Drawer Displays.

Glass Door Models:

Solid Door and Drawer Models:

NOTE: Refer to Section 19 for a Service Bulletin regarding an alarm in the Showroom Mode.

Page 39

5.3 User Interface Navigation – Beverage Centers

Page 40

Page 41

Page 42

Page 43

5.4 User Interface Navigation – Wine Coolers

Page 44

Page 45

Page 46

Page 47

5.5 User Interface Navigation – Refrigerated Drawers

Page 48

Page 49

Page 50

5.5 User Interface Navigation – Beer Dispenser

Page 51

Page 52

Page 53

SECTION 6: Control System

6.1 User Interface Display

The user interface display is mounted to the door top and connected to the main power board by means of a communication cable. The cable extends through the door and exits at the bottom hinge location.

6.1.1 Removing the User Interface Display

CAUTION

It is recommended that a grounding strap be used when working with any solid state control board application.

CAUTION

Care must be taken as a damaged wire or connector downstream from the display disconnect connector cannot be repaired or replaced. The Display receiver and wiring harness are foamed in place. Any damage will result in a door replacement.

1. Use the bottom edge of both thumb nails to gently pry up on the left hand side

of the display. (DO NOT use a sharp object such as a jack knife, putty knife, or

screwdriver. Objects like these can destroy the appearance of the display or scratch the door).

2. Once the display is unseated, turn over and locate the display connector.

3. Using your thumb or fore finger to unsnap the lock.

4. Separate the connector and set the display aside.

Page 54

User Interface PCA

Terminal

Description

Com Cable to Main Board

ICON / Key Switch

Lift user interface away from door receiver.

Release locking tab on display connector.

The user interface can now be removed.

Place finger nails under left hand lip of

user interface display.

Lift upwards.

Page 55

6.1.2 Installing a new User Interface Display

1. Reverse the process used to remove the display board.

2. Carefully place the display back into the door receiver.

Apply a light downward pressure to the edge of the display to snap into place

EXPLODED VIEW of User Interface Assembly

Page 56

6.2: Main Control Board

WARNING

Prior to removing the access cover to the machine compartment, disconnect the supply voltage to the appliance; failure to do this could result in an electrical shock or possible death.

CAUTION

It is recommended that a grounding strap be used when working with any solid state control board application.

6.2.1: Control Board Replacement

1. The main power board is located at the bottom rear, left hand corner of the machine

compartment.

2. To replace the board, remove the Phillips head screw securing the mounting bracket to

the machine compartment.

3. For ease of access, lower the leveling leg so that the threaded section is lower than its

threaded bushing.

4. Remove both large connectors on the bottom left hand side of the control board. Press

the release and pull each connector off its terminal.

5. The board can now be lifted out of the machine compartment.

6. The main board mounting bracket and the machine compartment bottom are

manufactured for a positive fit upon installation.

a. The control bracket has a notched recess on the bottom rear of the bracket. b. The machine compartment bottom has a slotted tab to facilitate the recess of

the control mounting bracket when installed.

7. Each wiring harness at the board is labeled as to its corresponding location on the

board. Prior to removing any harness, double check to insure that the identification on each harness is legible for correct placement when repair in completed.

8. The control board terminals are also marked as to the correct harness locations.

Page 57

Remove screw holding

the control board

bracket in place.

Location of the main

power board.

The photo to the left shows the

new modified board bracket to

extend the mounting height farther

away from the cabinet base.

Page 58

Disconnecting the two

large connectors.

Recess on the bottom of

the mounting bracket.

Slotted tab on the bottom of

the machine compartment.

Page 59

NOTE: For wiring diagrams please refer to: Section 9, Wiring Diagrams.

Connectors J5 & J15b: See

Wiring, Section 9.1

Connectors J4 – J14: See

Wiring, Section 9.1

Connectors J1 – J9: See Wiring,

Section 9.1

The following pictures represent terminal identification on a single zone main power board.

Page 60

6.2.2: Removing the Programming / Data cable

Connector J16: See

Wiring, Section 9.1

Care must be taken when removing this cable. The cable is located between the main board

and the small 2” x 2” programming board. It is not recommended to use a metal tool to unsnap

the cable connector. Use of a metal tool could result in a static discharge or accidental damage to the board.

1. The program board is connected to the main board by a row of pins on each side of the

board.

2. Grasp the program board on each side with your thumb and forefinger. Carefully pull

the program board out and away from the main board.

3. The data / programming cable can now be unsnapped and disconnected.

6.2.3: Re-Installing the Programming / Data cable

1. Carefully replace the data / programming cable back into the connection on the

program board.

2. Once again with care, align the pins on each side of the program board to re-adjoin with

the connections on the main power board.

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6.2.4: Control Board Installation

1. Replace the two connectors, previously removed, to the correct location on the main

board.

2. Prior to reinstalling the power board locate the slotted tab on the bottom of the

machine compartment.

3. Next locate the notched recess on the bottom of the control bracket.

4. Upon assembly, the notched recess on the control bottom needs to slide into the

slotted tab on the machine compartment.

5. Reattach the assembly to the rear machine compartment flange with the screw

previously removed.

Return the leveling leg to its correct position.

6.3: Cabinet and Defrost Thermistors

WARNING

Prior to removing the access cover to the machine compartment, disconnect the supply voltage to the appliance; failure to do this could result in an electrical shock or possible death.

6.3.1 Thermistor (Sensor)

The control thermistor senses the interior temperature allowing the control to adjust and properly display the interior temperature. The thermistor is located at the mid, left hand wall. The thermistor is covered with a plastic shield to prevent accidental damage.

The thermistor can be checked by use of a multi-meter with the ability to read resistance. Refer to the resistance chart.

6.3.2: Check the Thermistor:

The main cabinet and defrost thermistor harnesses from the control board are foamed in place. The recommended method to ohm the thermistor is to remove the thermistor connector at the control board and take the reading. For thermistor replacement; the cabinet thermistor connector is located in front of the evaporator cover, the defrost thermistor connector is located behind the cover.

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6.3.3: Removing the Cabinet Thermistor

Cabinet Thermistor: Note the locator

slot inside the thermistor shield. The grooved thermistor bulb fits firmly in the seat created inside the shield.

1. Remove interior shelving for ease of access.

2. Remove the decorative caps and screws from the thermistor shield.

3. Remove cantilever shelving brackets if applicable.

4. Disconnect the bad thermistor at the connector plug and remove.

5. For refrigerated drawers:  Remove both top and bottom drawers. See “section 7.4.1” regarding drawer

removal.

6.3.4: Installing the Cabinet Thermistor

1. Snap the new thermistor into the other half of the connector.

2. Place the new thermistor into its protective shield. The underneath side of the shield is

fitted to accommodate the grooves on the thermistor bulb.

3. Replace all components in the reverse order they were removed.

6.3.5: Removing the Defrost Thermistor

1. Remove all interior shelving.

2. Remove cantilever shelving brackets if applicable.

3. Remove decorative screw caps and screws from evaporator coil cover.

4. Disconnect fan.

5. Remove evaporator coil cover.

6. Cut the two nylon zip ties holding the thermistor to the evaporator plate.

7. Disconnect the bad thermistor at the connector plug and remove.

6.3.6: Installing the Defrost Thermistor

1. Snap the new thermistor into the other half of the connector.

2. Secure the thermistor on the evaporator plate using the two nylon zip ties included in

the kit. Insure that the thermistor is mounted with the bulb facing the left hand side of the liner; pull the zip ties firmly for proper plate sense.

3. Replace all components in the reverse order they were removed.

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Defrost Sensor

Location.

Basic Evaporator

Configuration: All Models:

Evaporator cover removed. Defrost Sensor Disconnect.

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Cabinet sensor connector.

Cabinet Sensor Location:

Typical on all models.

6.3.7: Thermistor Harness Identification:

1. Cabinet sensor, (orange) labeled: “Low Temp”.

2. Defrost sensor, (red) labeled: “Defrost Evap”.

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6.4: Temperature Resistance Chart

TEMPERATURE

RESISTANCE

TEMPERATURE

RESISTANCE

C°

F°

k ohm

C°

F°

k ohm

-18 0 61.941

14.675

-17 1 59.032

13.05

-16 3 56.277

12.555

-15 5 53.667

12.081

-14 7 51.194

11.628

-13 9 48.85

11.195

-12

46.627

10.78

-11

44.519

10.382

-10

42.518

-9

40.611

9.634

-8

38.801

9.283

-7

37.082

8.947

-6

35.451

8.624

-5

33.9

8.314

-4

32.427

8.018

-3

31.027

7.733

-2

29.695

7.46

-1

28.429

71.99

27.224

6.947

26.081

6.706

24.992

6.475

23.955

100

6.252

22.967

102

6.038

22.025

104

5.833

21.126

106

5.635

20.269

108

5.445

19.452

109

5.262

18.672

111

5.086

17.928

113

4.916

17.216

115

4.753

16.536

117

4.596

15.887

118

4.445

15.267

120

4.3

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6.5: Door Sensor

Door sensor location.

Sensor disconnect

terminal .

Cabinet trim piece.

On beverage center and wine cooler models, the door sensor is located on the bottom cabinet flange; approximately one third of the distance away from the handle side of the cabinet. The refrigerated drawers do not use this technology, dual rocker switches are used for drawer models.

The door sensor is resistance activated by the pressure of the door gasket. Light functionality and the door alarm are directly related to this switch.

NOTE: Refer to Section 19 for a Service Bulletin regarding a door sensor “DO”

alarm.

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6.5.1: Door Sensor Removal

Peel away from cabinet flange.

Sensor removed.

SERVICE BULLETIN 41013995: Addresses issues with poor door to switch contact. Available service kits are: S41050470-BLK, S41050470WHT, and S41050470-SS.

Refer to “Service Bulletin Section” in

this manual.

1. Remove the toe grill.

2. Disconnect the door sensor at the harness terminal behind the trim piece. See photo.

3. Remove the door sensor from the cabinet by starting in one of the upper corners and

peeling in a downward motion.

4. Once the sensor has been removed from the flange area: a. Grasp the sensor with the right hand using the thumb and forefinger. b. Grasp the electrical strip portion of the sensor between the thumb and

forefinger on the right hand.

5. Slowly work the sensor through the gap on the lower trim section to remove. The

upper portion of the electrical strip has some adhesive backing so care is advised.

Page 68

6.5.2: Door Sensor Replacement

Location of the defrost

thermistor: Top left hand corner

of evaporator plate.

1. Do not remove the adhesive backing from sensor until it is in place.

2. Slide the new sensor into the gap between the bottom flange and trim piece.

3. Once the sensor is in place: a. Remove the adhesive backer from sensor. b. Ensure the sensor is in position and carefully adhere to the cabinet. Apply

carefully using thumb pressure to the outer perimeter of the door sensor.

c. NOTE: Care should be taken not to apply unnecessary pressure directly on the

raised vertical center of the sensor face. The switch is pressure sensitive; any

undue pressure could damage the sensor.

6.6: Defrost Modes

6.6.1: Defrost Characteristics

1. Defrost is achieved as the result of compressor off time. No electrical or mechanical

alternatives are used.

2. Time defrost: Is initiated every 6 hours of compressor run time.

3. The evaporator fan is on for the entire defrost period.

4. Defrost is active for either a period up to 40 minutes of compressor off time or until

the defrost thermistor senses 40°F at its evaporator location.

5. Drip time: The compressor will have an additional 2 minute lag time (30 minutes for

a dual zone) prior to restarting after the conclusion of the defrost cycle. This allows remaining moisture to drip off the evaporator plate.

6. A manual defrost can be initiated with a two key operation explained in Section

6.6.3

Page 69

6.6.2 Auto Defrost

Defrost is achieved as the result of

compressor off time. NO electrical or

mechanical alternatives are used.

Timed Defrost: is initiated every 6

hours of compressor run time.

The evaporator fan is on for the entire

defrost cycle.

Defrost is active for a period up to 40

minutes of compressor off time.

The defrost thermistor will terminate

defrost @ 40°F at its evaporator

location.

Drip Time: The compressor will have an

additional 2 minutes (30 for a dual zone)

of lag time prior to restarting after the

conclusion of the defrost cycle. This

allows the moisture to drip off the

evaporator plate.

The defrost will

terminate when

either condition

is achieved prior

to the other

Defrost Time Out

periods edited on

page 64

 Drip Time Reference: Dual Zone has been extended to 30 minutes.

Page 70

Defrost Time Out (DTO) is the total time of compressor off time; including both defrost and drip time cycles.

AS OF 8/1/15 THE FOLLOWING CHANGES WERE MADE TO THE DEFROST TIME OUT (DTO) ON THE FOLLOWING MODELS:

 On all models except for the RF, RI, DZ and ML24WS; the DTO was expanded from 60

to 75 minutes.

 Model ML24WS was expanded from 40 to 75 minutes.  RF, RI, and DZ models remain the same.

6.6.3 Manual Defrost

A manual defrost can be activated by using the following sequence:

 Press the LOCK and MINUS key simultaneously and hold for 3 seconds.  The display will flash dEF (defrost mode) three times before entering the

defrost mode.

 dEF will be displayed for the duration of the defrost cycle.  The defrost cycles will terminate when either of the following conditions are

achieved first:

o the defrost has been active for 40 minutes o the defrost thermistor reaches 40°F

6.7 Error Codes

With the Aurora control there are four error codes that could appear on the user interface display. They are as follows:

 EL : Compartment thermistor open or out of range  Ed : Defrost thermistor open or out of range  EL / Ed : Multiple thermistor errors, open or out of range  CE : Communication cable error, broken connector pin or wire

Page 71

Section 7: Lights, Doors, Drawers, and Hinges

Refrigerated drawer mullion

shown in photo.

7.1 LED Lighting

1. Refrigerated Drawers: are equipped with two LED lights. The upper LED is located on

the ceiling of the cabinet, while the lower LED is located on the underside of the mullion assembly. These lights are controlled by the opening and closing of the associated drawer. Each light is controlled by an independent rocker switch, which is located behind each drawer on the back wall of the cabinet.

2. Beverage Centers: Have two LED lights and are located on the right hand and left hand

front of the cabinet ceiling.

3. Wine Coolers:  Single Zone: Have two LED lights which are located on the right hand and left

hand front of the cabinet ceiling.

 Dual Zone: Same as the single zone with two additional LED lights on the center

divider in like positions as the cabinet ceiling.

The LED lighting for beverage centers and wine coolers is controlled both by the light switch on the user interface display and also by the read switch mounted on the bottom flange of the cabinet. Pressure from the door gasket makes and breaks the read switch circuitry to control light function with door openings and closings.

Additional lighting features can be reviewed in the controls operation section in this manual.

7.1.1: Replacing the LED Light

1. Remove both Phillips screws in lens cover, the LED assembly can now be removed. (A

refrigerated drawer mullion is used for reference in below photo).

2. Disconnect the connector plug to replace LED.

3. Reverse process to install.

Page 72

Cabinet ceiling LED – all

models.

Refrigerated Drawer

Mullion.

7.2: Cabinet Door

7.2.1 Door Removal

 Remove both Phillips screws holding the toe grill in place; one on each end of the grill.  Locate and disconnect the communication cable connector on the bottom of the door

(hinge side).

 Remove the P-clamp securing the communication cable to the door bottom.

7.2.1.1 Marvel Models and non-Overlay door Models (Standard Hinge and Pin

7.2.1.2 Marvel Professional and Overlay Door Models (Articulating Hinge Assembly)

Assembly)

 Remove the upper door pin with a 1/8” Allen wrench.  Lift the door off the bottom hinge pin.

 Open the door and locate the 4 mounting screws holding the hinge to the

cabinet flange face.

 Loosen both screws in the keyhole and slotted screw holes on the top and

bottom hinges.

 Slide the door off the top and bottom hinges.  SEE SECTION 7.7 FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Page 73

Remove the toe grill.

Communication cable disconnect on

the bottom of door. The p-clamp is

mounted on a post to accommodate

hinge clearance.

Disconnect communication connector

and remove P-clamp and post.

NOTE: The communication cable is secured to the bottom of the door by the use of a p-clamp. It relieves in stress applied to the electrical disconnect.

Page 74

Remove upper door pin.

Remove screws to replace the door

closer assembly.

7.2.2 Bottom Door Closer

The bottom door closer can be replaced by loosening the screws on both the lower cabinet flange and the underside of the door.

Page 75

7.3: Refrigerated Drawers

Disconnect communication cable at

right rear of upper drawer.

Remove screw on each side of

shelf rail.

7.3.1: Drawer Removal

1. Disconnect user interface connection located at the top rear on the right hand side of

the upper drawer. (No connections for bottom drawer).

2. Remove the screw on each on top front of each shelf rail (2 total).

3. Push the release rod forward; this will disengage the locking tab on the rear of each

drawer rail.

4. The drawer can now be lifted and removed from the slide rails.

Page 76

Push the gray drawer release, on each

side, forward to unlock drawer tab.

Locking tab shown in secure

position.

Drawer can now be lifted

and removed.

Page 77

7.4: Doors / Drawers Handle Adjustment

3/32” hex head. Snug or

loosen the set screw firm. Do

not over tighten.

Both the door and drawer

handles are secured with a 3/32” hex set screw, on the underside of each standoff.

Once loosened, the handle can be pulled out of the standoff.

Page 78

If the standoff is loose it can be

tightened with a Phillips screwdriver.

The head of the Phillips screw

inside the standoff. Turn the

screw clockwise to tighten.

Replace handle stud into the standoff,

turn clockwise with the Allen wrench,

and snug hex screw finger tight.

Page 79

7.5: Door Alignment /Adjustment:

1/8” hex head. Turn the screw

counterclockwise to remove.

5/32” hex head. To adjust, loosen

both screws (counterclockwise) on

the bottom of the door. Slide the

bracket right, left or diagonally to

some degree to adjust door

alignment.

Press the gasket foot into the door channel to

reseal. Use your thumb to work the gasket in

place around the perimeter of the door.

NOTE: If adjustment, binding, rolling, or

pinching occurs, use a hair dryer to restore the

memory of the gasket to the cabinet flange.

7.6: Gasket Adjust / Replace:

Page 80

7.7 Articulating Hinges:

Panel ready door shown with articulating hinges.

Open Top Hinge:

Outside View.

NOTE: The top hinge is spring loaded and has the capability to suddenly close and severely pinching an appendage.

Articulating hinges are standard on Marvel Professional and panel ready doors.

Professional and overlay door models cannot be installed free standing. Units with the Articulating Hinge must be installed as built-in due to safety constraints.

Page 81

Open Top Hinge:

Inside View.

Loosen both screws, on top and bottom hinges to remove door.

NOTE: Use caution with both the top and bottom hinges as they have the capability of severely pinching an appendage.

The cable post is used only on articulating hinge doors. Its purpose

is to keep the communication cable from being pinched by the hinge. The p-clamp, post and harness connector must be detached from the door to accommodate door removal.

Page 82

Section 8: Evaporator Compartment Access

Hinged screw cover. Location varies on Beverage Center and Wine Cooler.

A knife or small putty knife is used to

pop each snap cap off the screw heads.

Place the blade on the rear base of the

cap and lightly pry upwards.

To gain access to the evaporator compartment of the beverage center, wine cooler or refrigerated drawers are very similar but slightly unique.

After drawers or shelving have been removed, the decorative plastic snap caps will have to be removed to access screw removal for both the cantilever brackets, coil cover, and thermistor shield.

NOTE: Refrigerated Drawers: See Section 7.3.1: Drawer Removal for additional

information.

8.1: Beverage Centers:

1. Remove all shelving

2. Remove both corner brackets and the center mounted bracket.

3. Remove decorative plastic snap caps.

4. The plastic cap located at the bottom of the center cantilever mounting rail is hinged on

one side; it is slightly larger than the remaining plastic decorative snap caps. Remove screws around the perimeter of the coil cover.

5. Carefully remove the coil cover and disconnect the evaporator fan and thermistor wires

as needed.

Page 83

Beverage center only: The cabinet

thermistor will have to be removed from its

shield to allow it to pass through the

removed cantilever bracket.

Beverage Center: Exploded view of

interior and shelving

SEE Section 8.4 regarding the

evaporator cover drip edge

pertaining to all models

Page 84

8.2: Wine Coolers:

Wine coolers have slide rail shelving with 7 pairs of slide rails on each side of the interior cabinet.

1. Remove all shelving.

2. Remove decorative plastic snap caps. a. The plastic cap located at the top center of the coil cover is hinged on one side; it

is slightly larger than the remaining plastic decorative snap caps.

3. Remove screws around the perimeter of the coil cover.

4. Carefully remove the coil cover and disconnect the evaporator fan and thermistor wires

as needed.

8.3: Refrigerated Drawers

NOTE: Refer to Section 19 for a Service Bulletin regarding a mullion heater kit.

To gain access of the evaporator and associated components located behind the coil cover.

1. Remove both top and bottom drawer (see section 7.4.1: Drawer Removal).

2. Disconnect the communication cable at the rear of the top drawer.

3. Remove the mullion bracket screws. (see section 15: SERVICE KITS for additional

information).

a. Remove the two top sheet metal screws securing the right hand mullion bracket

to the cabinet. Loosen the rear screw. The mullion bracket will stay with the mullion when it is removed.

b. Remove the sheet metal screws on the top and bottom of the left hand mullion

bracket. The mullion bracket will stay attached to the cabinet.

Page 85

4. The mullion trim strip has a small lip that rests under the cabinet flange. The fascia

Disconnect the

communication before

drawers are removed.

Remove top and bottom

drawers.

screw on each end of the mullion does not need to be removed.

5. To remove mullion: a. Grasp the mullion with each hand. b. Push mullion to the right to clear lip of flange on the left. c. Rotate mullion forward to clear the mullion from brackets and liner. d. Lift outward to remove.

6. Disconnect the LED harness on the right hand side of the mullion assembly.

7. Remove the decorative screw caps and screws that secure the coil cover.

8. Remove the P-clamp to the communication cable on the top right hand side of the coil

cover. This will allow enough slack to pull the coil cover outward.

9. Remove the coil cover by pulling outward on the right hand side to clear the rocker

switches on the left hand side of the cabinet.

10. Disconnect the fan harness; defrost thermistor, and cabinet thermistor as needed.

80 Remove two screws on the top of the mullion bracket,

Page 86

and one on the bottom.

Wiring harness for the mullion

LED. NOTE Disconnect.

Bottom mullion bracket.

Mullion fascia trim

does not have to be

removed.

Side View of Mullion Assembly.

Page 87

Remove the decorative screw caps and

screws.

The coil cover can now be removed.

Remove P-clamp

The defrost thermistor is shown in photo (left-red).

Also shown are disconnects for the following: (1) fan

cable (2) communication cable and (3) defrost

thermistor.

Drip edge on bottom

of evaporator cover.

8.4: Evaporator Cover Drip Edge

The bottom of the evaporator cover has two plastic drip edges to deflect water/condensation into the drain sump. These pieces need to remain on the cover for proper drainage.

Page 88

Section 9: Wiring Diagram

9.1 Block Diagram of Main Power Board

9.1.1 Single Zone

9.1.2 Dual Zone

Page 89

9.2 Schematic Diagram

9.2.1 Single Zone

Page 90

9.2.2 Single Zone – Beer Dispenser

Page 91

9.2.3 Dual Zone

Page 92

9.3 Main Power Board Identification

9.3.1 Single Zone

Page 93

9.3.2 Dual Zone

Page 94

SECTION 10: Power on Reset Mode

10.1: Auto Self-Test

Every “power on reset” (POR) will initiate an “auto self-test”. After each loss of power the control will do a self-check once power is restored. This sequence will not be noticeable to the owner.

During the auto self-test mode, the following conditions are evident:

 Current temperature is displayed.  Lights work normally.  User can adjust the temperature set-points.  Lock function works normally.  ON/OFF key works normally.

o NOTE: If the unit is turned “OFF” during the auto-self test, the unit will not be

disabled until the conclusion of the test.

 Green LED status indicator works normally.

In addition, during the auto self-test mode, the software version can be displayed by pressing and holding the ON/OFF key while simultaneously pressing the LOCK key. During the auto selftest the loads are sequentially enabled and then disabled.

10.2: Manual Auto Test Mode

An “auto test” can automatically be activated by the following key dance: Press and hold the LOCK and + (plus) keys simultaneously. During the manual test mode, the software version is automatically displayed until the test in complete.

Example: Display while in manual test mode: 4 (shows software version)

NOTE: The auto test sequence is identical in both POR and manual modes.

10.3: Control Types

 Single zone  Dual zone

Page 95

10.3.1 SINGLE ZONE:

AUTO TEST MODE

LOAD

ENABLED

Condenser (AUX A)

On for 15 seconds then OFF. Pause 2 seconds

Evaporator

On for 15 seconds then OFF. Pause 2 seconds

AUX C

On for 15 seconds then OFF. Pause 2 seconds

Comp & Cond Fan ONLY

On for 5 minutes then exit AUTO-TEST and RETURN to NORMAL OPERATION. NOTE: If there is a "Call for Cooling", upon return to

normal operation, the compressor and condenser fan will remain enabled.

AUTO TEST MODE

LOAD

ENABLED

Condenser (AUX A)

On for 15 seconds then OFF. Pause 2 seconds

Evaporator Fan A

On for 15 seconds then OFF. Pause 2 seconds

Evaporator Fan B

On for 15 seconds then OFF. Pause 2 seconds

Damper A

Completes one CLOSE/OPEN/CLOSE cycle then OFF. Pause 2 seconds

Damper B

Completes one CLOSE/OPEN/CLOSE cycle then OFF. Pause 2 seconds

AUX B

On for 15 seconds then OFF. Pause 2 seconds

AUX C

On for 15 seconds then OFF. Pause 2 seconds

Comp & Cond Fan ONLY

On for 5 minutes then exit AUTO-TEST and RETURN to NORMAL OPERATION. NOTE: If there is a "Call for Cooling", upon return to normal operation, the compressor and condenser fan will remain enabled.

NOTE No two loads can be on at the same time. The previous load must be

completely “Off” before the next load is enabled.

10.3.2 DUAL ZONE:

Page 96

SECTION 11: Quick Reference Troubleshooting Guide

COMPLAINT

CONDITION

CAUSE

ERROR CODES

Compartment Thermistor: Open or shorted (no audible tone).

Broken / Worn / Shorted thermistor: Check resistance (Ohm) and replace.

Defrost Thermistor: Open or shorted (no audible tone).

Broken / Worn / Shorted thermistor: Check resistance (Ohm) and replace.

EL / Ed

Multiple Thermistor Failures: Open or shorted (no audible tone).

Broken / Worn / Shorted thermistor: Check resistance (Ohm) and replace.

ALARMS

Door Ajar

“Door Ajar” will flash on Display (with

audible tone.)

Appliance door has been open or ajar for a period of 5 + minutes. Close door or press ON/OFF key to reset.

Power Failure

“Power Failure” will flash on Display (no

audible tone).

Internal / External related supply power disturbance. Press ON/OFF key to reset.

Temperature

Compartment is 10 + degrees higher / lower than Set Point for longer than 1 hour.

Electrical / Mechanical / Installation related. Alarm will sound every 60 seconds>Press ON/OFF key to reset. Alarm will continue until cause is corrected.

MISC

Unit does not operate.

Lack of power to the unit or display.

Check power to the appliance and power at the main power board.

Display Blank

Lack of power/ Display off/ Faulty display.

Attempt to turn on display/ Check for incoming power to appliance and display.

Compartment temperature to cold.

Faulty thermistor/ Compartment Fan Failure / System failure.

Check resistance (Ohm) and replace compartment thermistor.

Compartment temperature to warm.

Product not Stabilized/ Faulty Thermistor/ Electrical or Mechanical failure.

Stabilize 24 hours/ Check resistance (Ohm) and replace thermistor/ Check fan / Look for leak or restriction.

Compressor does not run.

No Power to compressor/ Faulty compressor or overload -relay/ Faulty main power board.

Bad main power board/Check compressor windings/Check overload and relay.

Compressor runs but doesn't cool.

Mechanical failure

System Leak

Compressor hot/ tripping.

Faulty compressor windings, overload, relay.

Shorted or grounded compressor windings, overload, and relay.

Excessive frost/ice build- up on evaporator.

Excessive door/drawer openings or Mechanical failure.

Customer education/ Restriction/ Overcharge.

Uneven frost pattern on evaporator.

Mechanical failure

System leak/ Restriction

Condensate on face of gaskets/mullion/doors.

High Humidity

Check repair / replace gaskets, Adjust doors/drawers.

Page 97

Section 12: Flow Chart Diagnostics

Page 98

Page 99

Page 100

Marvel MP15CPS3RS, MP15CPS3LS, MP15CPG3LS, MP15CPP3RP, MP15CPP3LP Service Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual

1.3 Servicing

1.4 Basic Refrigeration Tools

1.5 Basic Installation

1.6 Electrical Requirements

2.1 Introduction

2.2 Low Side Leaks

2.3 High Side Leaks

2.4 Restricted Capillary Tube

2.5 Access/Process Valves

2.6 Evaporator Frost Pattern

2.7 Measuring Evaporator Temperature

2.8 Re-charging

2.9 Temperature / Pressure Chart

3.1. Toe Grill Removal

3.2: Warnings and Cautions

3.3 Accessing the Mechanical Compartment

3.4: Compressor

3.4.2: Remove the Compressor

3.4.3: Install a New Compressor

3.5: Condenser

3.5.1: Remove the Condenser

3.5.2: Install a New Condenser

3.6: Evaporator

3.6.1: Remove the Evaporator

3.6.2: Install a New Evaporator

4.1: Condenser Fan

4.1.1: Fan Assembly Removal

4.1.2: Condenser Fan Replacement

4.1.3: Fan Assembly Installation

4.1.4: Condenser Fan Blade Spacing

4.2: Evaporator Fan Access

4.3: Thermistor Locations

5.1 Model Variations

5.3 User Interface Navigation – Beverage Centers

5.4 User Interface Navigation – Wine Coolers

5.5 User Interface Navigation – Refrigerated Drawers

5.5 User Interface Navigation – Beer Dispenser

6.1 User Interface Display

6.1.1 Removing the User Interface Display

6.1.2 Installing a new User Interface Display

6.2: Main Control Board

6.2.1: Control Board Replacement

6.2.2: Removing the Programming / Data cable

6.2.3: Re-Installing the Programming / Data cable

6.2.4: Control Board Installation

6.3: Cabinet and Defrost Thermistors

6.3.1 Thermistor (Sensor)

6.3.3: Removing the Cabinet Thermistor

6.3.4: Installing the Cabinet Thermistor

6.3.5: Removing the Defrost Thermistor

6.3.6: Installing the Defrost Thermistor

6.4: Temperature Resistance Chart

6.5: Door Sensor

6.5.1: Door Sensor Removal

6.5.2: Door Sensor Replacement

6.6: Defrost Modes

6.6.1: Defrost Characteristics

6.6.2 Auto Defrost

6.6.3 Manual Defrost

6.7 Error Codes

7.1 LED Lighting

7.1.1: Replacing the LED Light

7.2: Cabinet Door

7.2.1 Door Removal

7.2.2 Bottom Door Closer

7.3: Refrigerated Drawers

7.4: Doors / Drawers Handle Adjustment

8.3: Refrigerated Drawers

8.4: Evaporator Cover Drip Edge

9.1 Block Diagram of Main Power Board

9.2 Schematic Diagram

9.3 Main Power Board Identification

10.1: Auto Self-Test

10.2: Manual Auto Test Mode

10.3: Control Types