MartinLogan E2 User Manual

S TATEMENT
TM
E2
setup manual
M ARTIN L OGAN
®
the loudspeaker technology company
Contents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Master Packing List Required Tools Unpacking the Statement e2
Speaker Placement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Initial Speaker Placement The Wall Behind the Listener The Wall Behind the Speakers The Side Walls
Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Subwoofer Tower Assembly
Transition/ESL Tower Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Connections—Exos Crossover Inputs . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Connections—Exos Crossover Outputs . . . . . . . . . .22
Subwoofer Outputs Full Range Outputs
Connections—ESL/Transition Towers . . . . . . . . . . . .23
Bi-Wire Connection Horizontal Passive Bi-Amplification
Vertical Passive Bi-Amplification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Connections—Subwoofer Towers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
8-Ohm Connection 2-Ohm Connection 4-Ohm Bi-Amp Connection
Passive Hi-Pass Settings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
The High-Pass Settings
AC Power Connection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Making It Work Together . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Making It Work Together (Part 1) Subwoofer Level Knob Setting the Dip Switches
Making It Work Together (Part 2) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Speaker Placement (Fine Tuning) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31
Hard Sound Tweaking the Room
2 Contents

CONTENTS

Before You Begin 3

Master Packing List Required Tools

Before you being setting up the Statement e2, please make sure that all 15 crates/boxes are present and accounted for. The list below gives a detailed description of what can be found in each numbered crate/box.
# Contents
Sub (Left)
1 Master Sub, Left 2 Middle Sub, Left 3 Middle Sub, Left 4 Top Sub, Left
Sub (Right)
5 Master Sub, Right 6 Middle Sub, Right 7 Middle Sub, Right 8 Top Sub, Right
ESL/Transition Towers
9 Trim & Sub Harness x 2 10 ESL Towers x 2 11 Transition Towers x 2 12 Instruction Box (Hardware, tools, etc.)
Base (Left)
13 Base Assembly, Left
Base (Right)
14 Bass Assembly, Right
EXOS
15 EXOS Electronic Crossover
Provided (in crate 12):
—9/16
Socket
7
/32” Hex head —Ratcheting screwdriver —Grill cloth tool
You will need to provide:
—#2 Phillips head screwdriver —Small standard screwdriver —Level —Cordless drill with a #2 phillips head bit
Not required, but useful:
—1/4
Drive ratchet with extension
1
/4
Open end wrench
—Cotton gloves

Unpacking the Statement E2

WARNING! Unpacking the Statement Evolution 2 electrostatic speaker system requires a minimum of two people. Do not attempt any part of the unpacking process with one person.
1 Using a power drill and a #2 Phillips head drill bit,
remove the screws from the tops of all crates. Remove the top of each crate and set it aside, preferably in another room.
2 Unpack the contents of the 4 left sub crates near the
front left corner of the room. Remove the crates from the room.
3 Unpack the contents of the 4 right sub crates near the
front right corner of the room. Remove the crates from the room.
4 Unpack the contents of the 4 ESL/Transition tower crates
in an out of the way spot in the room. Remove the crates from the room.
5 Unpack the contents of the left base crate near the
left side of the room approximately 7 feet from the front wall. Remove the crates from the room.
6 Unpack the contents of the right base crate near the
right side of the room approximately 7 feet from the front wall. Remove the crates from the room.

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

4 Speaker Placement

For optimal performance of the Statement e2 system we recommend that the ESL/Transition towers be placed approximately five to seven feet from the front wall (the wall in front of the listening position) and at least two feet from the side walls. The subwoofer towers should be placed diagonally (or against a wall) in the front corners of the room with at least one foot of clearance between the woofers and the walls. The listening position should be farther than the distance between the speakers them­selves. What you are trying to attain is the impression of good center imaging and stage width (see figure 1).
There is no exact distance between speakers and listener, but there is a relationship. In long rooms, naturally, that relationship changes. The distance between the speakers will be far less than the distance from you to the speaker system. However, in a wide room, you will still find that if the distance from the listener to the speakers becomes smaller than the distance between the speakers themselves, the image will no longer focus in the center.
Near-field reflections can occur from your back wall, the wall behind the listening position. If your listening position is close to the back wall, these reflections can cause problems and confuse the quality of imaging. Actually it is better for the wall behind you to be soft rather than bright. If you have a hard back wall and your listening position is close to it, experiment with devices that will soften and absorb information (i.e., wall hangings and possibly even sound absorbing panels).

The Wall Behind the Speakers

The front surface, the wall behind your speakers, should not be extremely hard or soft. For instance, a pane of glass will cause reflections, brightness and confused imaging. Curtains, drapery and objects such as bookshelves can be placed along the wall to soften a hard surface. A standard sheet rock or textured wall is generally an adequate surface if the rest of the room is not too bright and hard. Sometimes walls can be too soft. If the entire front wall consists of only heavy drapery, your system can sound too soft or dull. You may hear dull, muted music with little ambience. Harder room surfaces will actually help in this case.
The front surface should, optimally, be one long wall without any doors or openings. If you have openings, the reflection and bass characteristics from one channel to the other can be different.

The Side Walls

The same requirements exist for side walls. Additionally, a good rule of thumb is to have the side walls as far away from the speaker sides as possible, minimizing near-field side wall reflections. Sometimes, if the system is bright or the imaging is not to your liking, and the side walls are very near, try putting curtains or softening material directly to the edge of each speaker. An ideal side wall, however, is no side wall at all.

Initial Speaker Placement The Wall Behind the Listener

SPEAKER PLACEMENT
Figure 1. Initial Speaker Placement.
Assembly 5
WARNING! Assembling the Statement e2 requires two people, except for step 12 of the subwoofer tower assembly, which requires three people. Do not attempt any part of the assembly process with one person.
1 Place the primary subwoofer module in position on the
floor, (the primary module has 10 binding posts). Corner placement is recommended—it is important to place the sub towers as close to final position as possible, as the final assembled tower weighs approximately 500 lb. However, for assembly you must leave enough space to have access to all sides of the sub tower. Place a level in position as shown to level the module left to right. Adjust the glider pads on the bottom of the cabinet to achieve level.
2 Position the level as shown to level the primary mod-
ule front to back, adjusting the glider pads on the bottom of the cabinet to achieve level.
3 Pick up a secondary module with an assembler on each
end and place carefully onto the primary module by lining up the cone feet on the secondary with the indentations at each corner of the primary module. Use your index finger as shown to feel when the cone feet are in position.

ASSEMBLY

Subwoofer Tower Assembly

Figure 2
Figure 3
Figure 4
6 Assembly
4 After the second module is in position atop the primary
module, place a level on it as shown. Level the module front to back by inserting a small allen wrench (or other suitable instrument) through the hole in the cones on the base of the module (detail), and rotating the cone up or down to achieve level.
5 Level the module left to right with the level in position
as shown. Adjust the cone feet for height.
6 Once the secondary module is level, install the stainless
steel Martin-Logan logo plates. You have a choice of using either a blue or red backing behind the logo— the vinyl insert is two-sided. Peel the protective plastic from the insert and position the insert between the logo plate and line up with the mounting holes on the top and bottom of the sub modules as shown. Insert the 3/8”-16 x 1” button head cap screws—do not tighten until all 4 screws are started, and then tighten in a cross-pattern so that all screws tighten down together. Use a 7/32” allen wrench.
Figure 5
Figure 6
Figure 7
Assembly 7
7 Stack the next secondary module atop the second uti-
lizing the same assembly procedure used in step 3.
8 Align the cones to the indentations on the cabinet
below, and level the module front-to-back and left-to­right, following the same procedure used in steps 4 and 5.
9 Repeat the procedure in step 6.
Figure 8
Figure 9
Figure 10
8 Assembly
10 Place the fourth and final module in position (repeat-
ing steps 3 thru 6). The top module is distinguished from the other modules by the lack of mounting holes on the top bracket (as shown).
11 Align the slots on the top and bottom of the grill cloth
frames with the curved extrusion on the module. Place firmly into position so that the velcro fasteners are securely meshed.
Figure 11
Figure 12
Assembly 9
12 Install woofer wiring harness as shown. You can move the
tower to the preferred listening position by shifting the unit from side to side and “walking” it.
13 When you are confident the sub tower is correctly
positioned, mark the floor with masking tape at each corner. Install the spikes by using a safe dolly to tip the sub tower back,
remove the glides, and then screw the
spikes into place.
Make sure you thread the large black rubber washer onto the spike post before installing in the tower. Place the tower in a vertical position, and level front to back by tilting the tower back (at least 3 people are required) and adjusting the spikes.
Figure 13
Figure 14
10 Assembly
Note: The following instructions describe the assembly of the right channel high-and mid-frequency tower. Duplicate all assembly instructions for the left tower assembly.
1 Attach the outside (semi-circle shaped) trim rail to the
transition tower by aligning the five pins on the trim rail with the 5 cam holes in the tower.
2 Use a phillips head screwdriver to rotate the cams a little
over 180° counter clockwise once the pin is properly aligned in the cam. The arrow on the cam must be in the position shown to accept the pin.
3 Make sure the trim rail is flush with the tower edge.

Transition/Electrostatic Tower Assembly

Figure 15
Figure 16
Figure 17
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