Martin MAC 575 Installation Manual

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MAC 575 Krypton Low-Noise Upgrade Kit Installation Guide – Page 1 of 46
MAC 575 Krypton™ Low-Noise Upgrade Kit Installation Guide
Introduction
This Installation Guide explains how to install the MAC 575 Krypton Low-Noise Upgrad e Kit to convert a standard MAC 575 Krypton to a Low-Noise model.
The MAC 575 Krypton Low-Noise Upgrade Kit has part number P/N 50300514. For the latest documentation and information abo ut this and all Martin Pro fessional prod ucts, please visit
the Martin website at www.martin.com.
Warning! Read and follow the safety precautions in the MAC 575 Krypto n user manual before ins talling the
Low-Noise Upgrade Kit. The user manual is supplied with the MAC 575 Krypton and is also available for download from www.martin.com
Disconnect the fixture from power, allow to cool and place on a workbench before starting work. The MAC 575 Krypton Low-Noise Upgrade Kit must be installed by qualified professional
technicians only. Read all of this Installation Guide carefully before starting to install the Upgrade Kit. Martin Professional A/S and its affiliated companies cannot be held responsible for any injury, damage, direct or indirect loss, consequential or economic loss or any other loss resulting from failure to follow the instructions, respect the safety precautions and carry out the safety tests listed in this Installation Guide.
If you have any questions about how to install the Upgrade Kit or use the MAC 575 Kr ypton safely, please contact your local Martin distributor (see www.martin.com/distributors for details) or call the Martin 24-hour service hotline on +45 8740 0000, or in the USA on 1-888-tech-180.
Important!To avoid damage to PCBs and their sensitive electronic components, take precautions to avoid
ESD (electrostatic discharge) and carry out work at an ESD-free workstation. Do not get oil or grease onto optical components. If necessary, clean components with 99.9% isopropyl alcohol.
© 2008 Martin Professional A/S. Olof Palmes Allé 18, DK-8200 Aarhus N, Denmark. Information subject to change without notice. Martin
Professional A/S and all affiliated companies disclaim liability for any injury, damage, direct or indirect loss, consequential or economic
loss or any other loss occasioned by the use of, inability to use or reliance on the information contained in this installation note. The
Martin logo, the Martin name and all other trademarks in this document pertaining to services or products by Martin Professional A/S or its
affiliates and subsidiaries are trademarks owned or licensed by Martin Professional A/S or its affiliates or subsidiaries.
P/N 35000602 Rev. B
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MAC 575 Krypton Low-Noise Upgrade Kit Installation Guide – Page 2 of 46
Overview
The MAC 575 Krypton Low-Noise Upgrade Kit contains the following items:
ABCD
EFGH
IJKL
MNOP
QRST
Table 1
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MAC 575 Krypton Low-Noise Upgrade Kit Installation Guide – Page 3 of 46
Tools required
Screw sizes given in this guide are indicative only. The following tools are normally required to upgrade a
standard MAC 575 Krypton as described in this guide. However, if screws have been replaced during service, for example, you may find that other tools are require d .
• wire cutters
• adjustable wrench
• 4 mm Allen key
• 2 x flathead screwdrivers
• Pozidriv PZ1 and PZ2 screwdrivers (all cross-head screws in MAC 575 Krypton fixtures are Pozidriv, not plain Phillips type)
• 10 mm and 8 mm hex head screwdrivers
• Torx TX10 and TX20 screwdrivers
• Round (needle) file
• Gaffa tape
• Spirit marker pen
To help you avoid dropping screws into the fixture, we recommend that you magnetize tools. Use of a powered screwdriver with correctly set torque will also save you time.
UVWX
Y Z AA AB
Table 1
A Wiring harness P/N 11850227 B Wiring harness P/N 11850228 C SMPS to DC/DC PCB leads P/N 11850230 D High-voltage wiring diagram P/N 33120093 E Base shell with fans P/N 62408570 F SMPS bracket P/N 62408580 G Ballast mounting bracket P/N 62408370 H Ballast moun ting plate P/N 62408440 I Ballast mounting plate, terminals side P/N 62408400 J Inrush PCB P/N 62408390
plus P/N 62000144
K Vented panel for ballast-side
base side cover P/N 23912582 L Pan stop with switch P/N 62400815 M Grounding label for ballast P/N 33160051
N Ballast labe l P/N 33160050 O Voltaflex insulation for base side cover P/N 33001113 P V oltaflex insulation for pan frame P/N 33001114 Q Flexible cable retainer P/N 13101010 R M6x70 hex ballast mounting bolts x3 P/N 08111007 S M6 lockwasher P/N 08114401 T M3 lockwasher P/N 08054401 U M3x6 countersunk Torx screw x4 P/N 08050802 V M4x12 countersunk Torx screw x10 P/N 08070808 W M3x8 panhead Torx screw P/N 08050703 X M4x16 panhead Torx self-tap screw x3 P/N 08070703 Y M6 washer, stainless steel x3 P/N 08114302 Z M3x8 countersunk Torx screw x2 P/N 08050803 AA M4x10 phd. Torx tap + spike screw x6 P/N 08070701 AB Spacer Ø7/Ø4 x2 P/N 08261020
Parts list
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MAC 575 Krypton Low-Noise Upgrade Kit Installation Guide – Page 4 of 46
Schematic wiring diagram
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Replacement of components
To install the MAC 575 Krypton Low-Noise Upgrade Kit components in a standard MAC 575 Krypton fixture:
1. Disconnect the fixture from power, allow to co ol, and place on a workbench. Take precautions against ESD (electro-static discharge).
2. See Figure 1. Lay the fixture on its side and remove the 14 Torx 20 pan frame retaining screws (arrowed), P/N 08070808, from the base. Keep the screws for re-use.
3. See Figure 2. St and the fixture upright. Remove the three PZ2 screws from the corners of each base top cover (6 screws total P/N 08070502) but do not remove the ground (earth) lead Torx screws that are set slightly in from the corners of the base covers. Keep screws for re-use during reassembly.
Figure 1
Figure 2
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4. See Figure 3. Remove the four PZ2 screws A from the base side cover on the ballast side. Keep the screws for re-use. Cut cable ties B as necessary to release the wiring to the SMPS module and move the cover away from the base.
5. See Figure 4. Remove the two PZ2 screws C from the top of the base side cover and lift the cover away from the SMPS module. The screws are no longer required.
Figure 3
A
A
A
A
B
Figure 4
C
C
Figure 4
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6. See Figure 5. Cut cable ties as necessary to release the base side cover’s ground lead.
7. See Figure 6. Remove the Torx 20 ground lead screw (arrowed) from the base side cover and disconnect the ground lead. Keep the screw, washer and ground lead for re-use.
8. See Figure 7. Remove the two PZ2 screws at each side of the base cover and remove the cover inner panel. Keep the screws for re-use. The cover inner panel is no longer required.
Figure 5
Figure 6
Figure 7
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9. See Figure 8. A new inner panel with air vents, P/N 23912582, is supplied in the Upgrade Kit. Turn the inner panel so that the tab (arrowed) in one edge of the inner panel is lined up with the channel in the base side side cover. Use the two screws you have just removed to fasten the new inner panel into the base side cover. You are screwing into plastic, so do not overtighten. Put the side cover and inner panel assembly to one side.
10. See Figure 9. Remove the nut and lock washer from the phase compensation capacitor. Keep the nut and washer for re-use.
11. See Figure 10. Disconnect the spade connectors from the phase compensation capacitor and remove the capacitor . Keep the capacitor for re-use.
Figure 8
Figure 9
Figure 10
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12. See Figure 11. Remove the Torx 20 ground lead screw (arrowed) from the end of the SMPS (switch-mode power supply). The screw, washer and ground lead are no longer required.
13. See Figure 12. Note which terminals the voltage A and frequency B tap leads on the ballast are connected to and use a small flathead screwdriver to release the tap leads from the terminals.
14. See Figure 13. Remove the four Torx 10 screws from the inrush PCB mounting posts, using a wrench to hold the mounting posts while you loosen the screws. The screws are no longer required.
Figure 11
Figure 12
A
B
Figure 13
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15. See Figure 14. Remove the four Torx 10 screws (arrowed, one screw is hidden behind the technician’s hand in the photo) from the DC/DC PCB mounting posts. These screws are no longer required. Move the DC/DC PCB to one side for access to the SMPS mounting screws.
16. See Figure 15. Remove the three Torx 10 SMPS mounting screws (arrowed) from the SMPS bracket. Keep the screws for re-use.
Figure 14
Figure 15
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17. See Figure 16. Lift the SMPS unit and the two PCBs out of the bracket. The bracket is no longer required, but keep the other components.
18. See Figure 17. Disconnect the plug A with red and blue leads from connector J2 and plug B with blue and brown leads from connector J1 on the SMPS unit. Keep the SMPS unit for re-use.
Figure 16
Figure 17
A
B
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19. See Figure 18. Disconnect all connectors from the DC/DC PCB. The red/blue leads and the brown/blue leads are no longer required. Remove the DC/DC PCB and keep it for re-use.
20. See Figure 19. Disconnect the data wiring connector from connector PL1 and the light-blue and black starter (ignitor) leads shown in Figure 19 from the inrush PCB. Remove the inrush PCB, leaving the remaining leads connected to it. The PCB and these remaining leads (shown at bottom right in Figure 19) are no longer required.
Figure 18
Figure 19
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21. See Figure 20. Cut the cable ties on the wiring to the data connector you have just removed from the inrush PCB and pull the wiring free.
22. See Figure 21. Using an 8 mm socket driver, remo ve the three M5 ballast mounting bolts and lift the ballast out o f the chassis. The bolts are no longer required.
23. See Figure 22. Use a small flathead screwdriver to lever the plastic inserts out of the ballast mounting bolt holes on the top and the bottom of the ballast. The inserts are no longer required.
Important!The inserts are top-hat shaped,
with a sleeve inside the mounting bolt hole and a collar around the hole. If you break off a collar, leaving the sleeve stuck inside the hole, remove the sleeve by knocking it out with a bolt pushed through the hole from the other side. Check that all sleeves are removed and holes are clear before proceeding.
Figure 20
Figure 21
Figure 22
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24. See Figure 23. Two new ballast mounting plates, P/N 62408400 and P/N 62408440 an M6 star washer, P/N 08114401, three new M6 ballast mounting bolts, P/N 08111007 and three flat washers, P/N 08114302, are supplied in the Upgrade Kit. On one plate there is a countersunk recess. the star washer must be installed between the plate and ballast here to ensure good electrical continuity . Use a metal scraper or sandpaper to clean the surface of the ballast where the star washer will sit. Use a 10 mm socket to install the plates on the ballast as shown in Figure 23 using the three bolts supplied, with the star washer sitting in its recess and using flat washers under the bolt heads.
25. See Figure 24. A label is stuck on the side of the ballast next to the terminals. Replace it with the Elektrokov label C supplied in the Upgrade Kit. Apply the grounding label B supplied in the Upgrade Kit beside the Elektrokov label as illustrated. This label indicates that the ballast is grounded via the bolt A and star washer.
Important!To maintain electrical continu ity,
the star washer must be reinstalled in the same position during future service operations.
Figure 23
A
Figure 24
C
B
A
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26. See Figure 25. Use a 7 mm socket to remove the nuts (arrowed) from the four screws that hold the ballast mounting brackets to the bottom of the base. You will need to hold the PZ2 screws in the base while you loosen the bolts. Be prepared to catch lockwashers to avoid them falling inside the fixture. One screw is hidden under a label carrying patent information. You will need to scrape part of the label away to free the screw . The bracket s and their screws and bolts are no longer required.
27. Remove the four PZ2 retaining screws from the display side base cover and lift the cover away from the fixture slightly. Keep the screws for re-use.
Figure 25
Figure 26
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28. See Figure 27. Disconnect the display side base fan from the top of the main PCB.
29. See Figure 28. Disconnect the mains power leads (in a braided sleeve) from the mains filter PCB.
30. See Figure 29. Disconnect the wiring to the DC/DC PCB from its connector (arrowed) on the bottom of the main PCB.
Figure 27
Figure 28
Figure 29
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31. See Figure 30. The wiring harness that includes the main PCB-to-DC/DC PCB leads should now be free. Remove it. This wiring harness is no longer required.
32. See Figure 31. Disconnect the SMPS side base fan at its cable connector behind where the SMPS is installed.
33. See Figure 32. Disconnect the ballast side base fan at its cable connector behind where the ballast is installed.
Figure 30
Figure 31
Figure 32
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MAC 575 Krypton Low-Noise Upgrade Kit Installation Guide – Page 18 of 46
34. See Figure 33. Remove this screw from the shield plate on top of the pan frame. This screw is no longer required.
35. See Figure 34. Remove this screw and the cable retainer mounted on it from the top of the pan frame. This screw and the cable retainer are no longer required.
36. See Figure 35. Remove this screw from the top of the pan frame. This screw is no longer required.
Figure 33
Figure 34
Figure 35
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MAC 575 Krypton Low-Noise Upgrade Kit Installation Guide – Page 19 of 46
37. See Figure 36. Remove this screw from the top of the pan frame. This screw is no longer required.
38. See Figure 37. Remove the two screws that hold the ground leads on the top of the pan frame at both sides and lift the base top covers away from the fixture. Keep the screws and covers for re-use.
Figure 36
Figure 37
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Warning! To reduce the risk of injury to yourself or damage to the fixture, two people are required for the
next operation.
39. See Figure 38. While one person lifts the head and yoke assembly out of the fixture, the other person must slide the base out from underneath, leaving the display/connections panel and main PCB connected to the head and yoke. Do not discard the base yet.
40. See Figure 39. Lay the head and yoke assembly on its side. Pull the light-blue and black starter leads A and data leads B in through the circular cutout in the pan frame, pass them back out through the rectangular cutout C, pull to remove any slack in the leads, then tape them out of the way D against the side of the pan frame.
41. See Figure 40. Pull the head and yoke wiring harness out of the pan frame, removing any slack, and secure the harness with an elastic band (see arrow).
Figure 38
Figure 39
A
B
D
C
Figure 40
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42. After you have pulled wiring out of the pan frame to remove slack, the pan frame should look as shown in Figure 41. Check that all wiring is secured and that there is no slack wiring in the pan frame. Make absolutely certain that no wiring can hang under the motors (arrowed).
Important!When the pan frame is installed,
there is not much clearance for wiring and there is almost no clearance between the motors (arrowed) and the base. Any wiring that becomes trapped under the motors or other parts of the pan frame during installation of the head and yoke can be damaged, either during installation or when the head is panned after reassembly.
43. See Figure 42. Remove the Allen screws from the handles and remove the handles from the base. Keep the handles and screws for re-use. The base is no longer required.
44. See Figure 43. Put the new base on your workbench beside the head and yoke assembly. Turn the base so that the side of the base that has two fans is on the same side as the rectangular cutouts in the pan frame, as shown in Figure 43. Tape the fan leads (arrowed) in the new base out towards the outside of the base to keep them out of the way.
Figure 41
Figure 42
Figure 43
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45. See Figure 41. Lower the head and yoke assembly carefully into the center of the new base so that the pan frame fits over the rigging clamp anchoring points (arrowed) and the screw holes at the edges of the pan frame line up with the screw holes in the sides of the new base. Do not trap any wires.
46. See Figure 45. Eight screws for the pan frame are supplied in the Upgrade Kit: six M4x10 Torx 20 panhead self-tapping screws, P/N 08070701, and two M4x16 Torx 20 panhead self-tapping screws, P/N
08070703. Two spacers, P/N 08261020, are also supplied. Remove the existing screw at
a. Install the two
spacers on the two M4x16 screws and tighten them in the holes at
a and b next to the
pan tacho wheel shield (see photo A). Remove the existing screw at
c. Tighten two of the
six M4x10 screws in the holes at
c and d. Remove the
existing screw at
e. Tighten
two more of the six M4x10 screws in the holes at
e and f.
Remove the existing screw at
g. Tighten the last two M4x10
screws in the holes at
g and h.
Figure 44
Figure 45
A B
C D
a
b
d
c
e
f
h
g
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47. See Figure 46. Feed the head/yoke wiring harness back into the pan frame. Turn the head to full pan left and full pan right, checking that wiring is free to move without chafing and that the head pans freely.
48. Connect the three ground leads from the head/yoke, power input and display side base top cover as shown in Figure 47, re-using the original screw.
49. See Figure 48. Take the new wiring harness, P/N 11850227 supplied in the upgrade kit (see “B” on page 2) and plug the connector with the blue and brown mains power leads (arrowed) into the power leads with the braided sleeve on the main PCB.
Figure 46
Figure 47
Figure 48
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50. See Figure 49. Plug the 8-pin multi-connector on the new wiring harness into the connector (arrowed) on the bottom of the main PCB as illustrated.
51. See Figure 50. Pass the blue and brown power lead and remaining multi-connector on the new wiring harness through the pan frame and into the ballast side of the base.
Figure 49
Figure 50
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52. See Figure 51. Untap e the leads from the fan closest to the display panel and plug them into connector F3 (arrowed) between connectors F2 and F4 on the main PCB.
53. See Figure 52. Making sure no wiring is trapped, re-install the display/connections panel, re-using the original four PZ2 screws, then re-install the base top cover on the display/connections side of the fixture re-using the original three screws.
Figure 51
Figure 52
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54. See Figure 53. On the ballast side of the base, remove the tape you used to secure the light-blue and black starter leads and data leads and pass them out through the side of the pan frame between the two fans in the base.
55. See Figure 54. If pan switch P/N 62400544 is fitted, it must be removed and replaced with pan switch P/N 62400815 supplied in the Upgrade Kit. If pan switch P/N 62400815 is already fitted, leave it in place.
Figure 53
Figure 54
P/N 62400815 P/N 62400544
if fitted, remove and
replace with P/N 62400815
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MAC 575 Krypton Low-Noise Upgrade Kit Installation Guide – Page 27 of 46
56. If you do not need to replace the pan switch, go to step 61. on page 28.
If you need to replace the pan switch, See Figure 55. Remove the two Torx 20 mounting screws (arrowed) from the existing pan switch. Keep the screws for re-use.
57. See Figure 56. Transfer the spade connectors from the old pan switch to the new switch. Bend the spades downwards in the direction of the arrow.
58. See Figure 57. Insert a mounting screw in the switch’s round hole and screw it in until it is finger-tight only.
Figure 55
Figure 56
Figure 57
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59. See Figure 58. Insert the second mounting screw in the elongated hole and.screw in until it is finger-tight only.
60. See Figure 56. Adjust the position of the pan switch until there is approx. 2 mm clearance between the switch activation blade A and the toothed pulley B but make sure that the blade can still be activated by the pan stop tab C when you rotate the yoke to full pan. Fasten the switch in place by fully tightening its two mounting screws, starting with the screw in the elongated hole. After tightening the screws, check the position of the switch and readjust if necessary.
61. See Figure 60. Cut the cable tie (arrowed) holding the ballast side fan leads to the pan frame.
Figure 58
Figure 59
B
A
C
Figure 60
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62. See Figure 61. Remove the two Torx 10 screws (arrowed) from the thermosensor and let the thermosensor hang on its leads. The screws are no longer required.
63. See Figure 62. The thermosensor leads are fastened with cable ties to the SMPS side fan leads. They must be fastened to the ballast side fan leads instead. Be careful not to mix up the SMPS side and ballast side fan leads, as they are about the same length and look the same.
Carefully cut the cable ties that hold the thermosensor leads to the SMPS side fan leads.
Figure 61
Figure 62
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64. See Figure 63. Attach the thermosensor leads to the ballast side fan leads, leaving approx. 10 cm (4 inches) extra length on the thermoswitch wires. Use two cable ties next to each other to reduce the strain on the leads.
65. See Figure 64. Remove two Torx 20 screws (arrowed) from the ballast side of the pan frame next to the pan switch. These screws are no longer required.
Figure 63
Figure 64
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66. See Figure 65. A new ballast mounting bracket, P/N 62408370, is supplied in the Upgrade Kit. Take the thermosensor you unfastened in step 62. and clip it onto the mounting pillars in the SMPS bracket. You may need to enlarge the holes in the thermosensor PCB slightly with a round file.
67. Install a cable tie on the bracket as shown in Figure 66.
68. Three new M4x16 Torx 20 self-tapping screws, P/N 08070703, are supplied in the Upgrade Kit. Fasten the mounting bracket to the pan frame as shown in Figure 67, tightening the new screws in the holes indicated with arrows.
Figure 65
Figure 66
Figure 67
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69. See Figure 68. Thread the thermosensor leads and ballast side fan leads that you attached in step 64. through the opening (arrowed) in the ballast mounting bracket.
70. See Figure 69. Reconnect the thermosensor leads to the thermosensor.
71. See Figure 70. Remove the tape from the ballast side fan leads and connect the fan.
Figure 68
Figure 69
Figure 70
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72. See Figure 71. Secure the ballast side fan leads and thermosensor leads to the ballast mounting bracket with the cable tie (arrowed) you installed in step 67. Make sure that leads are held securely away from the fan blades.
73. See Figure 72. Remove the tape from the SMPS side fan leads and connect them to the original connector.
74. See Figure 73. Use two cable ties to take up the slack in the SMPS side fan leads.
Figure 71
Figure 72
Figure 73
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75. See Figure 74. Six M4x12 Torx 20 screws, P/N 08070808, are supplied in the Upgrade Kit. Lay the fixture on its side and fasten the ballast into its bracket by tightening these six screws through the holes (arrowed) in the bottom of the base, through the ballast mounting bracket and into the ballast mounting plates.
76. See Figure 75. Re-use 12 of the 14 Torx 20 screws you removed in step 2. to fasten the pan frame/yoke/head assembly into the base by tightening the screws in the holes (arrowed) in the bottom of the base.
77. See Figure 76. Use a 5.5 mm socket to remove the mounting pillar nuts from the DC/DC PCB. The nuts are no longer required.
Figure 74
Figure 75
Figure 76
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78. See Figure 77. A new SMPS mounting bracket, P/N 62408380, is supplied in the Upgrade Kit. Press the DC/DC PCB onto the mounting pillars on this bracket.
79. Two new sets of leads, both included under P/N 11850230, for the SMPS are supplied in the Upgrade Kit. Plug them into the connectors on the SMPS as shown in Figure 78.
Figure 77
Figure 78
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80. See Figure 79. Fasten the SMPS mounting bracket onto the SMPS using the two M3x8 countersunk Torx 10 screws, P/N 08050803, supplied in the Upgrade Kit. Install the cable retainer, P/N 13101010, supplied in the Upgrade Kit at
A.
81. See Figure 80. Fasten the new ground lead supplied in the Upgrade Kit onto the SMPS mounting bracket with the M3x8 panhead Torx 20 screw, P/N 08050703, supplied in the Upgrade Kit, installing the star washer, P/N 08054401, supplied in the Upgrade Kit under the head of the screw.
Figure 79
A
A
Figure 80
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82. See Figure 81. Use a star washer and nut to fasten the phase correction capacitor onto the SMPS bracket.
83. Peel off the backing paper from the bigger of the two pieces of “Voltaflex” insulating sheet, P/N 33001 113, supplied in the Upgrade Kit and stick it over the center of the inner surface of the base side cover on the ballast side of the base.
84. See Figure 83. Re-using the Torx 20 screw you removed in step 7., attach the ground lead for the ballast side panel and the new ground lead that you fastened to the SMPS bracket in step 81. together on the ballast side base cover inner panel.
Figure 81
Figure 82
Figure 83
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85. See Figure 84. Fasten the SMPS assembly to the flap on the ballast side cover using four new M3x6 countersunk Torx 10 screws, P/N 08050802, supplied in the Upgrade Kit.
86. See Figure 85. Connect the double red lead from the 6-pin connector on the SMPS to the spade connector at PL 101 A on the DC/DC PCB.
Connect the double blue lead from the 6-pin connector on the SMPS to the spade connector at PL 102 B on the DC/DC PCB.
Figure 84
Figure 85
B A
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87. See Figure 86. Connect the brown lead from the 5-pin connector on the SMPS to the spade C at PL 108 on the DC/DC PCB.
Connect the blue lead from the 5-pin connector on the SMPS to the spade D at PL 105 on the DC/DC PCB
88. See Figure 87. Connect the brown lead from the wiring harness you installed in step
49. to the spade at PL 109 on the DC/DC PCB.
Connect the blue lead from the wiring harness you installed in step 49. to the spade at PL 106 on the DC/DC PCB
89. The DC/DC PCB should now look as shown in Figure 88.
Figure 86
C
D
Figure 87
Figure 88
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90. See Figure 89. Plug the 8-pin multi-connector on the wiring harness to the 8-pin socket (arrowed) on the DC/DC PCB.
91. See Figure 90. Take the wireset included in P/N 1 1850228 supplied in the Upgrade Kit. Connect the blue lead’s connector A to the spade at PL 104 and connect the brown lead’s connector B to the spade at PL 107 on the DC/DC PCB.
Figure 89
Figure 90
B
A
C
D
E
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92. See Figure 91. Connect the blue and black right-angled spade connectors C in Figure 90 to the spades on the phase compensation capacitor (arrowed). Polarity is not important, but the right-angled connectors must face away from each other as shown in Figure 91.
93. See Figure 92. Using a small flathead screwdriver, fasten the bare white lead D in Figure 90 in the frequency terminal on the ballast that matches your local mains power AC frequency.
Figure 91
Figure 92
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MAC 575 Krypton Low-Noise Upgrade Kit Installation Guide – Page 42 of 46
94. See Figure 93. Using a small flathead screwdriver, fasten the bare red lead E in Figure 90 in the voltage terminal on the ballast that matches your local mains power voltage.
95. See Figure 94. Bend the cable retainer clip on the SMPS assembly so that it holds wires securely away from the ballast and holds the part of the wireset that has the braided sleeve so that it is kept below the pan switch assembly.
Warning! Make sure that no wiring will
come into contact with any part of the ballast apart from the terminals.
96. Reinstall the ballast side base cover on the base, re-using the screws you removed in step 4.
97. See Figure 95. Stick the narrow strip of “Voltaflex” self-adhesive insulating sheet supplied in the Upgrade Kit over the inner surface of the pan frame (arrowed), where the wiring harness exits the pan frame between the two fans in the side of the base.
Figure 93
Figure 94
Figure 95
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MAC 575 Krypton Low-Noise Upgrade Kit Installation Guide – Page 43 of 46
98. See Figure 96. Take the ground leads from the vented side panel and the base top cover on the ballast side of the base and fasten them to the top of the pan frame re-using the screw you removed in step
38.
99. A wiring diagram label, P/N 33120093, is supplied in the Upgrade Kit. Peel off the backing paper and stick it to the inside of the ballast side top cover.
100.Make sure that wiring is secured away from moving parts and cannot be trapped, then reinstall the base top cover on the ballast side of the base, re-using the original three screws.
101.See Figure 98. Take the new inrush PCB module supplied in the Upgrade Kit and connect the data leads (arrowed).
Figure 96
Figure 97
Figure 98
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MAC 575 Krypton Low-Noise Upgrade Kit Installation Guide – Page 44 of 46
102.See Figure 99. Install the black starter lead on the spade A at PL8.
Install the blue (Neutral) starter lead on the middle spade B in the row of three spade connectors marked NEUTRAL.
Install the white lead on the spade C marked BALLAST OUT next to the black connector at PL8.
Connect the red and black double spade connector to the spade D marked LAMP/BALLAST IN at PL3.
Connect the brown lead to the spade E marked PHASE at PL2.
Connect the remaining two blue leads to the two remaining connectors marked NEUTRAL on either side of spade B. It does not matter which of these two leads you connect to which spade.
103.See Figure 100. After making all connections to the inrush PCB assembly, it should now look like this. Use the four new M4x12 Torx screws, P/N 08070808, supplied in the Upgrade Kit to fasten the inrush PCB assembly to the base between the two fans.
Important!Do not trap any wiring when
installing the inrush current PCB assembly.
Figure 99
B
A
B
C
E
D
Figure 100
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MAC 575 Krypton Low-Noise Upgrade Kit Installation Guide – Page 45 of 46
104.See Figure 101. Re-using the original screws, install the base outer side covers and carrying handles.
You have now completed the installation of components, but do not begin using the fixture until you have carried out the safety tests described in the next section.
Safety testing
Warning! The two tests described below must be carried out before the upgraded MAC 575 Krypton
Low-Noise can be considered safe. Do not operate the fixture until it has passed these tests.
Specialized test equipment is required for these two tests. Suit able test equipment, such as the Electrical Safety Tester series from Instek (http://www.instek.com) for example, is available at the moment (summer 2008) for around 600-700 US dollars.
Ground bond test (earth bond test)
105.Open the ballast side base top cover. Test the resistance between the ground (earth) conductor in the power cable and each of the ground leads on the pan frame in turn. If resistance exceeds 0.75 ohms, clean and re-establish all connections and repeat the test until you measure less than 0.75 ohms between the ground conductor in the power cable and each of the two gro und leads. Do not proceed to the next test until the fixture passes this test.
106.Reinstall the cover.
High-potential dielectric withstand test
Warning! Dangerous voltage. Follow all safety instructions printed in your appliance tester’s user manual
and on your appliance tester.
107.Ensure that the fixture’s power cable is not connected to power. Temporarily lin k the live (brown) and neutral (blue) conductors in the fixture’s power cable together so that there is electrical continuity between them.
108.Connect one terminal of a PAT (portable appliance tester) device to the combined live and neutral conductors in the fixture’s power cable. Connect the other terminal of the PAT device to the ground conductor in the fixture’s power cable.
109.Make sure that the fixture’s main on/off power switch is set to ON.
110.You are about to apply a very dangerous and potentially lethal voltage. Ensure that it is impossible for exposed conductive components in or on the fixture to come into contact with persons, or any conductive surface or substance that persons may touch, during this test.
1 11. Set the maximum current on your PAT device to 20 mA, then use the PAT device to apply 1500 VAC
for a maximum of 1 second to the conductors you have connected it to.
Figure 101
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MAC 575 Krypton Low-Noise Upgrade Kit Installation Guide – Page 46 of 46
112.If a flashover or arcing occurs, disconnect the PAT device, check all points of the installation, then repeat the test.
113.Separate the live and neutral conductors again before connecting the fixture to normal AC power.
Product information
For specifications and other information about the MAC 575 Krypton, please refer to the user manual originally supplied with the fixture. The manual is also available for download from the Support area of the Martin website at http://www.martin.com.
Martin Professional A/S Olof Palmes Allé 18 8200 Aarhus N Denmark
Tel: +45 8740 0000 Fax +45 8740 0010 www.martin.com
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