Mantua Model Group Golden Star769 Instruction Manual

Assembly Instructions: Golden Star Art. 769
© Mantua Model Group August 2001 Page 1 of 14
GOLDEN STAR
English Brig of the 17th and 18th Centuries
Art. 769
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
English Version
Newly translated and improved by
Peter H. Morris August 2001
For the
Mantua Model Group,
S. Lucia di Roverbella (Mantova)
CP46048
Italy
Assembly Instructions: Golden Star Art. 769
© Mantua Model Group August 2001 Page 2 of 14
HISTORICAL BACKGROUND
A brig is a vessel with two masts square-rigged like a ship’s foremast and mainmast, but carrying also on her mainmast a fore and aft gaff-and-boom mainsail. In wide use in the merchant marine during the 17
th
and 18th centuries, the brig was introduced into English naval service from the 1770’s.
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
General notes:
All dimensions given are in millimetres. The symbol ∅ means diameter
English translations of the Italian notes on the plans are given in these instructions.
Component numbers (n.11, etc) refer to the numbered plywood parts on Plan 1.
Figure numbers given below (Figure.1, etc) refer to the numbered figures on Plan 1.
Part numbers (Part F1, A9, etc.) refer to the detailed or exploded drawings on Plans 2 or 3.
The sequence given here is the recommended order for completing the model.
PLAN NUMBER 1
On the two plywood panels, mark the part number on each laser-cut, plywood component with a soft lead pencil before removing the parts with a craft knife. The identity of the removed parts can be easily checked from the scale drawings provided on Plan 1. Smooth all the edges of each piece with fine sandpaper, taking care not to damage the machined profiles of the pieces.
Figure 1.
Draw the central line on each of the frames n.2-n.8 and n.16 using a square.
Using the scale side-section view on Plan 1, draw the positions of the false bow strips n.1A on
both sides of the keel. Temporarily nail the bow strips to the keel using brass nails.
On frame n.4, mark the position of the strip n.4A, and glue and then glue and nail n.4A on the frame using brass nails.
Glue the frames to the keel, checking before they are set that they are square to the keel when viewed from the side. Use a rule or long strip across the top of the frames to check that the central lines of the frames are aligned with the central line of the keel. Put aside to dry.
Figure 2.
With a hard pencil, and starting from the central line, score the surface of the decks n.9, n.10, n.13 and n.24 at 3.mm intervals to simulate the deck planking.
Glue the main deck n.9 down onto support strip n.4A on the frame structure, aligning the sides of the deck with frames n.4 and n.8.
With reference to the side-section view and Figure 4, glue the two stern transom support brackets n.11 onto the rear of frame n.2. Glue the poop deck n.10 onto the top of frames n.2, n.3 and n.4 overhanging frame n.4 by 2.mm, and aligning the sides of the deck with the frames.
Figure 3.
With a hard pencil score the surfaces of the deck transoms n.12 & 14 with vertical lines at
3.mm intervals to simulate bulkhead planking. Glue the fore deck n.13, the main deck transom No 12 and the fore deck transom n.14 in place, aligning the edges with the frames.
Taking the dimensions from the side section drawing cut a 6x5 square hole 2mm deep in each side of parts n.15 with a craft knife and paint the hole black. This porthole provides a fixing for the dummy cannon. Glue parts n.15 accurately in place between frames 4 and 5.
To enable the hull planking to form a smooth line from the frames to the bow, and to the stern, and to increase adhesion, remove the rear-facing sharp edges of frames n.2 and n.3, and the bow-facing edges of frames n.6, n.7 and n.88 with a file. Smooth with a sandpaper block.
Figure 4. Glue the stern transom plywood part n.16 on the support brackets n.11. Figure 5 - Planking. To form the hull planks into a curve (to fit the shape of the bow) without risk
of the planks breaking, a plier-type plank bender is recommended. The 1.5x6 Walnut planking strips are to be glued on the frames side-by-side (not overlapping) and lengthways along the ship. The first plank will be positioned level with the main deck and parallel with the bottom of the keel. Form one end of the plank into a curve to fit the curve of the frames at the bow and trim the bow end of the plank so that it abuts neatly against the keel in front of strip n.1A. Apply glue to the frames and position the plank holding it in place with clamps or pins. (Caution: do not cut off the
excess planking overhanging the stern yet, as this will be trimmed later).
Assembly Instructions: Golden Star Art. 769
© Mantua Model Group August 2001 Page 3 of 14
The general instructions on planking at the end of this booklet provide practical advice on how to achieve a good line to the hull, with planks that abut neatly, leaving only small gaps. Note that this model is single-planked (only one layer) so that all the planks need to be applied with care if a good finish is to be achieved. Continue planking down the hull until the planking reaches the dummy porthole. Mark the centre-line of the porthole on the plan – to make it easier to find the porthole position later. Continue planking down the hull to the keel. Taper and trim the ends of the planking where necessary to fit and cover the hull. Cut the planking neatly away from around the dummy porthole on each side.
Figure 6. Continue the planking upward from the first plank, to create a parapet wall around each deck as shown. Fit transom plywood part n.17 in place using the sectional view as a guide, and plank up the sides at least 2mm above the top edge.
Figures 7 and 8. Carefully trim the hull planking at the stern, down the sides of the transom n.16, the curved area under the transom formed by parts n. 11 and the sides of frame n.2. Plank the stern with horizontal 1.5x6 planks as shown. Any gaps or splits in the planking should now be filled with thin pieces of plank. When the glue is dry, remove all nails, and finish the hull by scraping and smoothing with sandpaper. Any small cracks remaining should be filled with suitably coloured plastic wood and finished with fine emery paper or sandpaper.
Figure 9. Assembling the Rudder. Make a slot ∅3 and 5 long in the top of rudder plywood part n.18. Cut a piece of 3 dowel 52 long and glue it into the rudder slot. Fix two the metal hinges item 20 onto the keel with brass nails as shown in figure 12. Mark and cut a small hole in the underside of the stern, insert the rudder and mark the position of the hinges on the rudder. Fit the hinges to the rudder with brass nails and re-assemble the rudder into the stern. Join the two parts of the hinges by gluing in the hinge-pins item 21. Glue the tiller head (plywood part n.22) onto the rudder dowel. Shape the tiller from ∅3 dowel 30 long and glue into place in the tiller head.
Figure 10. Fit the upper deck part n.24 as shown, and trim the side planks level with the deck. Figure 11. Building the Ship’s Cradle. Join plywood parts n.26 and n.27 with two plywood strips
5x10x210 long, glued and nailed in position. When dry, sand until smooth and paint black. Figure 12. Finishing the hull.
Frame the stern with 2x2 Walnut strips & glue the windows (plywood parts n.28) in position on the stern and sides as shown (see also the stern view by fig.13). Paint the windows black. Optionally, paint in the window frames using gold paint and a small brush.
Above the windows glue mouldings (item 29) made from 1.5x3 Walnut plank.
Glue the handrail plywood parts n.30 to the bow, and fit handrails items 31 and 32 made from
1.5x3 Walnut plank (see the plan-view on Sheet 2).
Rubbing strakes. These are timbers fitted along the length of the hull to protect the sides of the ship from damage. Two strakes are fitted to the Golden Star made from 2x2 Walnut plank (items 33 and 34 in fig. 12). Before gluing the rubbing strakes to the sides of the hull, mark their positions using the scale side-view on Plan 2 as the guide. Check that they are at the same height either side; so that the moulding under the stern ransom will line up with them and be horizontal (see the stern view by fig.13). Glue and pin these strakes into position.
Figure 13.
Channels. These boards hold the deadeyes supporting the shroud lines. Glue plywood parts n.35 and n.36 to the sides of the hull and support them with the brackets (plywood parts n.37) using five brackets under channel n.35 & four brackets under channel n.36. Use the plan view on Plan 2 to get the correct positioning in relation to the two masts. The securing strip item 38 is added later when the chainplates have been fitted. Drill a 1 hole in the front side of each fore-channel to take the anchor securing rope.
Gun ports. Make these from 1x6 and 1x4 Walnut plank, and glue them to the hull in the positions shown in the side-view on Plan 2. Drill a 2 hole in the centre of each of the two dummy portholes and fix the dummy cannons (item 40) in place. Glue open the ports above the dummy barrels.
Steps. Fix the seven outer steps (item 41) made from 2x2 Walnut 12 long to the hull sides, as shown on the side view.
Assembly Instructions: Golden Star Art. 769
© Mantua Model Group August 2001 Page 4 of 14
PLAN NUMBER 2
The numbered exploded views in this plan show the details for completing the superstructure. Refer to the scale side-view and scale plan-view for dimensions and the positions of the numbered detail parts. Caution: the detail drawings are not to scale. To make working easier, place the hull on the ship’s cradle that was made previously.
Figure F1 – Banisters Item 42. The two banisters with belaying pins are situated on the front of the poop deck and at the rear of the foredeck. Make the rails (item 42) from 1.5x3 Walnut plank 38 long, checking the hole positions on the plan view. Drill six 1.3 holes for the belaying pins and three ∅0.8 fixing holes. Make the 5mm long pillars (item A) from ∅2 dowel and drill 0.8 holes in one end. Fix the rails to the pillars with brass nails and glue. Glue the assemblies on deck in the positions shown on the plan-view.
Stern deck handrails - Item 43. Take the dimensions from the plan-view and make up the three handrails fitted onto the stern deck. Make the rails from 1.5x3 Walnut plank, checking the hole positions on the plan- and side-views. Make the 5mm long pillars from 2 dowel and drill ∅0.8 holes in one end. Drill and fix the rails to the pillars with brass nails and glue. Glue the assemblies on deck in the positions shown on the plan-view. Drill two 1.3 holes in the front rail for the two belaying pins.
Figure 2 – Stairs. Shape the backs of the ready-made stairs items 44 (6x6x8 mm) and item 45 (20x20x8 mm) so that they fit snugly against the transoms, and glue in place on the deck. Make the cylindrical handrails from 1brass wire. Drill 1holes in the deck and glue the handrails in place.
Small Parts.
Glue the doors plywood part n. 46 (6x12 mm) on the central transom n.12. File the bottom edge of the stern ornament (plywood part n.47) to create a backward tilt and glue onto the rear of the stern deck. Glue on the bow the four cleats plywood parts n.48: fit two just underneath the bow railing, and fit two on the deck.
Figure 3 - Fife rails item 49. Taking the dimensions from the plan-view, make up the two fife rails, modifying the four fife rail supports (plywood parts n.49) with a small file as shown. Make the two 25mm-long rails from 3x3 Walnut plank and drill four ∅1.3 holes for the belaying pins.
Figure 4 - Capstan item 50. Glue the tapered drum (item A) supplied to the two sides (plywood parts 50B). Make the ratchet plate (C) from 10mm long 3x3 Walnut plank and the support pillar (item D) from 7mm long 1.5x3 mm Walnut plank. Glue these parts as shown on the plan. . Drill ∅1 mm holes in the deck, wind two lengths of 0.5 rope around the ends of the capstan and insert the free ends into the deck (see plan).
Figure 5 - Hatchway item 51. Glue the plywood sides 51B to the plywood end gables 51A, chamfering the top outside edges of 51B to allow the roof to overhang the sides. Make the roof from 1.5x6 Walnut planks 40.mm long chamfering the top joint to make a neat joint along the roof apex. Sand smooth when dry. Glue on the eight skylight covers (plywood parts 51D) as shown. Glue the assembly onto the deck.
Figure 6 - Hatchway item 52. Glue the plywood sides 52B to the plywood end gables 52A, chamfering the top outside edges of 52B to allow the roof to overhang the sides. Make the roof from 1.5x6 Walnut planks 9.mm long chamfering the top joint to make a neat joint along the roof apex. Sand smooth when dry. Glue on the four skylight covers (plywood parts 52D) as shown. Glue the assembly onto the deck.
Figure 7 - Steering wheel item 53. Make the axle (item B) from 2 dowel 18 long. Reduce the outer diameter of the axle from 2 mm to 1.5 mm for a length of 4 mm with a file. Insert the axle through the supports (plywood parts 53A) and into the steering wheel. Fix with instant glue. Glue in position on the deck (see plan).
Assembly Instructions: Golden Star Art. 769
© Mantua Model Group August 2001 Page 5 of 14
Figure 8 - Lantern item 54. Assemble the supplied parts A, B, C, D, E and F using epoxy resin or instant glue. Fix to the stern using the side- and plan-views on Plan 2 as guides and with reference to the stern view on Plan 1.
Belaying Pin Racks items 55, 56 and 57. Cut the belaying-pin racks from 1.5x6 mm Walnut plank as follows and drill ∅1.3 holes for the belaying pins:
Item 55 - two pieces 20 mm long – five pins;
Item 56 - four pieces 15 mm long – four pins;
Item 57 - four pieces 25 mm long – six pins.
Glue the belaying-pin racks inside the hull parapet, under the handrails, in the positions shown on the plan-view on Plan 2, and in the sectional-view on Plan 1.
Figure 9 - Falconets item 58. Drill the handrails with 0.8 holes and fix the brass falconet supports (item A) onto the handrails with brass nails in the positions shown on the plan. Fix the barrels (item B) with pins (item C) made from 1 brass wire 4mm long and clenched with pliers to secure the pins in place.
Figure 10 - Cat Davits item 59. Make the davits (item A) from 3x3 Walnut plank 23 long. Drill two 1.5 holes in one end, 3 mm apart. Make the support posts (item B) from 3x3 Walnut plank 20 long and chamfer the ends to fit against the hull and the davits as shown. Glue onto the bow in the positions shown on the bow view and the two scale views on Plan 2.
Figure 11 - Anchors item 60. Taper the ends of the two anchor stocks (plywood parts 60A) as shown on the figure 11. Wind 5 or 6 turns of
0.5 thread in four places on each stock as shown,
fixing the thread with a little glue. Fix the stocks on the anchors, ensuring that the stocks line up at right angles to the flukes as shown. Insert a
6 brass ring on each anchor tail. Tie a 150mm
length of large thread to each anchor ring and bind it with thin thread as shown. The anchors will be placed on the hull after the sail work has been completed.
Hawse holes. Carefully drill two 3 holes in the bow to take the anchor ropes, as shown in the bow view. Glue a 4 brass ring around each hole.
Rigging Eyes. Drill 1 holes and glue in the brass rigging eyes (item 69): two on the poop deck (points 48), two on the foredeck (points 4), three on the bow for the bowsprit, two on the stern sides and four on the channels, as shown in fig. P5 and on the side- and plan-view.
MASTING THE SHIP
Figures 12, 13, P4 and the scale side-view show how to assemble the mast tops – the joints and platforms between the sections of mast.
Figure 13 – Assembling the Tops. The construction process is the same for all four top assemblies. The four platforms (tops) are made from plywood parts 61, 62 an d 63 (2 pieces). Here we explain how to make the top for the mainmast.
Glue the two crosstrees (plywood part 61B) into the two tressle-trees (plywood parts 6 1A).
Glue the platform (plywood part 61) onto the crosstrees ensuring that the platform lines up
correctly with the platform edges.
Frame the platform with plywood part 61D on the front upper face, and a kick plate (item 61C) made from 2x2 Walnut plank on the rear upper edge.
Drill three ∅1.5 holes in each side of the platform for the shroud lines.
Drill a ∅1 hole in the back edge of the platform and glue in a brass rigging eye.
Make up the other three top assemblies in the same way – but omit the rigging eyes. Mast caps. Shape the plywood parts 61E, 62E and 63E as shown on Figure 12. Carefully drill the
holes to the sizes of the prepared mast ends. Mast Fife Rails. Drill plywood parts 65 and 66 with eight equispaced 1.3 holes for belaying pins.
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