Magnuson Products INTERCOOLED SUPERCHARGER SYSTEM User Manual

Installation instructions for:

89-89-65-005 Rev F

INTERCOOLED SUPERCHARGER SYSTEM

2005-2007

FORD MUSTANG 4.6L 3V

Step-by-step instructions for installing the best in supercharger systems.

PREMIUM FUEL REQUIRED

ATTENTION!

our MAGNA CHARGER intercooler kit

Is sensitive to corrosion!

Take care of if by using 50/50

Anti-freeze with de-ionized water.

Magnuson Products Inc

1990 Knoll Drive, Ventura, CA. 93003

Phone [phone] * Fax [phone]

magnusonproducts.com * magnacharger.com

INSTALLATION MANUAL

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Magna Charger
FORD 4.8 Liter 3V Engine,
2005-2007 MUSTANG

Please take a few moments to review this manual thoroughly before you begin work:
A quick parts check to make certain your kit is complete (See shipper parts list in this package). If you discover shipping
damage or shortage, please call our offi ce immediately. Take a look at exactly what you are going to need in terms of
tools, time, and experience. Review our limited warranty with care. When unpacking the supercharger kit DO NOT lift
the supercharger assembly by the black plastic bypass actuator. This is pre-set from the factory and can be altered if
used as a lifting point!

Caution: Relieve the fuel system pressure before servicing fuel system components in order to reduce the risk of fi re
and personal injury . After relieving the system pressure, a small amount of fuel may be released when servicing the fuel
lines or connections. In order to reduce the risk of personal injury, cover the regulator and fuel line fi ttings with a shop
towel before disconnecting. This will catch any fuel that may leak out. Place the towel in an approved container when
the job is complete.

Use only premium fuel, 91 octane or better.

Magna Charger systems are manufactured to produce about 20 RWHP per pound of boost at sea level. High altitudes
will produce different numbers.

Our Magna Charger kits are designed for engines in good mechanical condition only. Installation on high mileage or
damaged engines is not recommended and may result in engine failure, for which we are not responsible. Magna Char­ger is not responsible for the engine or consequential damages.

Aftermarket engine re-calibration devices that modify fuel and spark curve (including, but not limited to programmers)
are not recommended and may cause engine damage or failure. Use of non-Magna Charger approved programming
will void all warranties. If you have any questions, call us.

After you fi nish your installation and road test your vehicle, please fi ll out and mail in the limited warranty card, so we
can add you to our fi les (this is important for your protection).

• A new fuel fi lter is recommended at the time of supercharger installation.

• Stock application Motorcraft spark plugs are recommended

• Drive belt= Gates# K061247

• Air Filter= K&N# 33-2298

Tools Required:

Metric wrench set
¼” - 3/8” and ½” drive metric socket set (Standard & Deep)
3/8” and ½” drive Foot pound and inch pound torque wrenches
Phillips and fl at head screwdrivers
Fuel line quick disconnect tools (included in kit)
Small or angled 3/8” drill motor
Drain pan
Hose cutters
Hose clamp pliers
Safety glasses
Metric Allen socket set 3/8” drive
Electric drill and drill bits

Contact Information:

Magnuson Products Inc

Magna Charger Division

1990 Knoll Drive

Ventura, CA, 93003

Sale/Tech Support [phone]

Web site:

www.magnusonproducts.com

www.magnacharger.com

E-mail:

[e-mail]

1. Relieve the pressure in the fuel tank by

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removing the cap and re-installing it.

IMPORTANT! Ensure vehicle has
91 or higher-octane fuel in it prior to
supercharger installation!

2. Disconnect the negative (-) battery
clamp using a 7mm wrench.

3. Remove the Positive Crankcase
Ventilation (PCV) line from the air tube
by pressing the release trigger in the
connector and pulling it free. Follow the
line to its connection on the cam cover
and remove the line completely from the
motor.

4. Loosen the air tube clamp at the throttle
body using a 8mm nut driver or straight
blade screwdriver.

Release Trigger

5. Loosen the air tube clamp at the air box

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using a 8mm nut driver or straight blade
screwdriver

6. Remove the air tube completely from the
vehicle.

7. Remove the Throttle Position Switch
(TPS) connector by sliding the red
release latch outward and pulling the
connector free.

8. Remove the Electronic Throttle Control
(ETC) connector by sliding the red
release latch outward and pulling the
connector free.

Release Latch

Release Latch

9. Disconnect the (8) fuel injector

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connectors by squeezing the release
trigger and pulling the connectors free.

10. Remove the Fuel Pressure Sensor
(FPS) connector by squeezing
the release trigger and pulling the
connectors free.

Release Trigger

Release Trigger

11. Remove the vacuum line to the FPS.

12. Remove the (2) battery cable anchors
by pulling them free from the fuel rail
attachment bolts.

13. Remove the Evaporative Control (EVAP)

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line behind the throttle body by pressing
in on the white release latch and pulling
the line free.

14. Remove the PCV line from the intake
manifold by pressing the release
trigger in the connector and pulling it
free. Follow the line to its connection
on the cam cover and remove the line
completely from the motor.

Release Latch

15. Remove the fuel line lock clip from the
fuel rail by gently prying it free.

16. Use the supplied tool to remove the
fuel line from the fuel rail. CAUTION!
WEAR EYE PROTECTION! The fuel
line will be under pressure. Extinguish
any open fl ame or source of ignition.
Snap the tool on to the fuel rail in place
of the lock clip. Push the tool towards
the fuel line while pushing the line
towards the tool. Pull back on the line
and it will come free. Use a clean shop
towel to collect any spilled fuel.

Fuel Line Lock Clip

Fuel Line Removal Tool

17. Remove the (4) bolts that secure the fuel

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rails to the intake manifold using a deep
8mm socket wrench.

18. Remove the fuel rails complete with
injectors from the intake manifold, by
pulling up fi rmly on the fuel rails.

19. At the rear of the intake manifold locate
the electrical connector for the manifold
servo- motor.

20. Press the release trigger and pull the
connector apart.

Release Trigger

21. At the rear of the intake manifold remove

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the brake vacuum hose by squeezing
the ears of the clamp using a pair of
pliers and pulling the hose free.

22. Remove the (5) bolts on each side of the
intake manifold using a 10mm socket
wrench.

Brake Vacuum Hose

23. Carefully lift the intake manifold free
from the engine.

24. Carefully clean the cylinder head port
faces and cover them with masking tape
or clean shop towels.

25. Depress the tensioner arm by inserting

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the square end of a 1/2” breaker bar into
the square hole on the arm. Press the
bar down to relieve tension on the belt
and remove the belt from the pulleys.
This belt will no longer be used.

26. Remove the Alternator bracket and the
(4) bolts that secure it in place using a
10mm socket wrench

1/2” Breaker Bar

27. Remove the (2) nuts that secure the
alternator using a 13mm wrench.

28. Lift the alternator up off its mounting
studs and carefully place it on the
passenger side fender well. Protect the
fender wall using a thick shop towel or
fender cover.

Remove Nuts

29. Remove the (2) alternator-mounting

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studs by placing a 6mm socket wrench
on the hex ends of the studs or “double­nutting” them and unscrewing them from
the engine block.

30. The following steps are for Intercooled
vehicles only! Non-intercooled vehicles
please skip to step 58.

On the passenger side of the vehicle,
under the nose, locate the white plastic
radiator drain valve. Open the valve and
collect the coolant in a drain pan for re­use late in the installation.

Remove Studs

Double Nutted Stud

31. Remove the coolant hoses from the
coolant manifold. Use a pair of pliers to
squeeze the clamps that secure them.
Pull both hoses free from the coolant
manifold. Also remove the passenger
side coolant hose from where it meets
the radiator and set this hose aside for
future modifi cations.

32. On the bottom of the coolant manifold, in
the engine valley, locate the heater hose
connector. Squeeze the (2) gray release
latches and pull the connector free from
the steel “elbow”.

Radiator Drain Valve

Coolant Hoses and Clamps

Release Latches

Pull

33. Remove the gray release latches from

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the elbow and insert them into the
connector.

34. Remove the coolant manifold and the (4)
bolts that secure it using a 10mm socket
wrench.

35. Grasp the steel elbow on the bottom of
the coolant manifold using a large set of
pliers. Using a small torch or heat gun,
apply heat to the bottom of the manifold
were the steel elbow is inserted.

36. Pull the elbow free from the manifold,
but do not twist it, as this will damage
the aluminum manifold.

Steel Elbow

Torch or Heat Gun

HEAT

Pull

37. Allow the manifold to cool completely.

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Install the small 5/8” core plug supplied
using a suitable drift and hammer in to
the hole that the elbow was removed
from.

38. Here is the core plug correctly installed
in the bottom of the coolant manifold.

39. Locate the Engine Coolant Temperature
(ECT) connector clipped to the steel
coolant pipes in the engine valley.
Disconnect it by squeezing the release
trigger of the connector and pulling it
apart.

40. Locate the Engine Knock Sensor (EKS)
connector clipped to the steel coolant
pipes. Disconnect it by squeezing the
release trigger of the connector and
pulling it apart.

41. At the rear of the passenger side

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cylinder head, locate the bolt that secure
the steel coolant pipes in place and
remove it using a 13mm socket wrench.

42. Pull the coolant pipes up so you can
remove the coolant hoses and clamps
using a pair of pliers.

43. After removing the coolant hoses, gently
lift the pipes up and back to remove
them from the engine. Some additional
engine coolant will be lost at this point,
place a suitable drain pan under the
transmission bellhousing to collect it.

44. When removing the steel coolant
pipes from the engine, take care not
to damage the smaller of the (2) pipes
and the nipple where it connects to the
engine block. The coolant pipe is a “slip­fi t” on this nipple.

Engine Block Nipple

Coolant Pipe

45. Place the coolant pipes in the soft jaws

Engine Block Nipple

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of a vice. Separate the (2) coolant pipes
by cutting the connecting brackets using
a hack saw.

46. Use care when cutting, as the smaller
diameter pipe will be re-used.

Cut Here

47. Here are the coolant pipes separated,
and the smaller diameter pipe is now
ready for re-installation.

48. Re-install the smaller diameter coolant
pipe by fi rst carefully starting the end
on the engine block nipple. Secure the
coolant pipe with the bolt previously
removed. Re-connect the ECT and
EKS sensor connectors. Using some
of the ty-straps supplied, secure the
connectors to the coolant pipe and the
remaining portion of the connecting
bracket.

Engine Block Nipple

49. Re-install the coolant hose onto the pipe

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using the original clamp.

50. On to the remaining coolant hose, install
the 90-degree connector and the “elbow”
hose supplied as shown. Secure the
90-degree fi tting with the original clamp,
and the elbow hose with the new spring
clamp supplied.

51. Here is the 90-degree fi tting and elbow
hose installed. Route the long straight
section of the elbow hose forward along
the side of the engine to be connected in
a later step.

Coolant Hose

Spring Clamp

90º Fitting

“Elbow” Hose

52. Locate the passenger side coolant hose
removed previously. Note: Which end
goes to the manifold and to the radiator.
Just below the “dog leg” bend in the
middle of the hose, locate the short,
straight section and cut the hose in the
middle of this section.

To Manifold

Cut Here

To Radiator

53. Install the hose connector supplied into

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the ends of the hose. Note that the barb
on the connector will point rearwards,
towards the engine, away from the
radiator. Secure the connector in the
hose with the #18 clamps supplied but
leave them loose so fi nal adjustments
can be done on the vehicle.

54. Here is the completed hose with the
connector installed.

55. Re-install the water manifold. Torque
the fasteners to 89 in-lbs using a 10mm
socket and torque wrench.

To Manifold

To Radiator

56. Re-install both coolant hoses. Note, on
the passenger side hose, that the barb
on the connector will point rearwards
towards the engine, away from the
radiator. Secure the connector clamps
after the fi nal adjustments.

57. Install the end of the elbow hose on

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to the barb of the new coolant hose
connector with the spring clamp
supplied. Position the connector and
elbow hose so that the elbow hose can
be routed beside the engine. Tighten
the connector hose clamps. Refi ll
the radiator reservoir with the coolant
removed earlier.

Hose Connector Barb

Elbow Hose

58. Here is the new drive belt idler pulley
and mounting hardware.

59. Install the new bolts through the
bracket and into the holes that originally
mounted the alternator. Note, the gap
between the bracket and the block, this
is where the alternator will mount.

Idler Pulley Mounts Here

Pulley

Spacer

Idler Pulley Bolt

Bracket

Bracket Bolts

60. Install the alternator and torque the (2)
mounting bolts to 22 ft-lbs (30 Nm) using
a 12mm socket and torque wrench.

61. Install the idler pulley with its spacer

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into the remaining hole on the mounting
bracket with the bolt supplied. Torque
this bolt to 28 ft-lbs (38 Nm) using a
15mm socket and torque wrench.

62. Install the (2) new alternator brackets
with the (4) original bolts. Torque them
to 106 in-lbs (12Nm) using a 8mm and
10mm sockets and a torque wrench.

63. Remove the (3) bolts that secure the belt
tensioner using a 10mm socket wrench
and remove the tensioner from the front
of the motor.

64. Carefully place the tensioner in the soft
jaws of a vice. Using a hacksaw or a
small grinder, remove the center stop of
the tensioner.

Alternator

Brackets

Remove Stop As Shown