Magnum Venus Plastech MCS-CMB-APS-11 User Manual

APS Chop System

MCS-CMB-APS-11 Maintenance & Repair

MAGNUM VENUS PRODUCTS

Maintenance & Repair Manual

Part No. MCS-CMB-APS-11

Revision 04.27.04

APS Chop System

Maintenance & Repair Manual

Corporate HQ & Mfg.

Phone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]

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© 2004 Magnum Venus Product s Manual Part No: MCS-CMB-APS-11

MVP Technology Center

Phone: [phone] [phone]
Fax: [phone]

Table of Content s

APS Chop System

Maintenance & Repair Manual

CHAPTER 1 - START-UP PROCEDURES
Inspection of Unit
Preparation and Priming of “New” System
Preparation and Priming of Previously Used System
Air Pressures and Testing of S pray Pattern

CHAPTER 2 - SHUT-DOWN PROCEDURES

CHAPTER 3 - ATC GUN INSTRUCTIONS

CHAPTER 4 - RC-1000 & RC-1101-1 ROVING CUTTER INSTRUCTIONS
CHAPTER 5 - NOZZLE INFORMATION

CHAPTER 6 - BASIC TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDES
Chop System
Fluid Section

CHAPTER 7 - AIR MOTOR
Disassembly

Assembly

CHAPTER 8 - CAUTIONS & WARNINGS

CHAPTER 9 - PARTS DRAWINGS

Chapter

S tart-Up Procedures

1

INSPECTION & MAINTENANCE OF UNIT

1. Check solvent cup to be sure it is 1/3 full.

2. Check catalyst and material levels.

3. Inspect material spray tip and O-ring and replace if necessary.

4. Inspect catalyst tip assembly and replace O-rings (if applicable).

5. Inspect tip pin O-rings on front of gun head and replace if nicked or worn.

6. Assemble catalyst tip and material tip onto gun.

7. Lubricate threads on retaining ring and assemble onto gun.

8. Inspect hose assemblies and connections for leaks and wear and tear.

9. Check roving quantity.

10. Inspect and replace as necessary:

· Chopper blades

· Anvil sleeve

· Cutter head bearing

· Idler bearing

11. Inspect and adjust as necessary:

· Cutter head to anvil sleeve tension

· Idler bearing to anvil sleeve tension

· Check chopper position for most efficient disbursement of chop into spray pattern

12. Oil cutter assembly air motor with MVP oil as necessary (normally 2-3 drops daily depending on
usage).

PREPARATION AND PRIMING OF “NEW” SYSTEM

1. Be sure all air regulators are turned completely to the left, shutting off air to the components.

2. Slowly open main air.

3. Prime empty catalyst line:

· Disengage catalyst pump

· Open ball valve on catalyst manifold (if applicable)

· Eliminate air pockets by manually hand pumping the catalyst 5-10 short strokes (2-3 in.). After
eliminating air pockets, and while continuing to hand pump, close ball valve on catalyst manifold.

· Pull and hold trigger on gun while hand pumping catalyst pump with short strokes until there is a
solid, steady catalyst flow from the head of the gun. This will ensure that all air is purged from the
line. Release trigger.

· Continue to hand pump the catalyst with short strokes until catalyst is fully primed and pressurized
(generally within 5 additional strokes or less)

NOTE: Do NOT engage slave pump until material pump has been primed.

4. Material Pump: (be sure catalyst pump is disengaged) Place a container or bucket under pump valve
to catch material while priming. Open ball valve located on bottom of filter assembly on pump. Bring
up pressure on material pump gauge just enough to cause stroking of pump. After a smooth flow of
material is flowing from valve, close the valve. Once pump is primed, it will stall (stop stroking), and
the air may be increased to operating pressures. Generally 30 - 50 psi, depending on output and
transfer efficiency desired.

5. Engage slave pump.

PREPARATION AND PRIMING OF PREVIOUSLY USED SYSTEM

1. Slowly open main air.

2. Disengage slave pump.

3. Material Pump: (be sure catalyst pump is disengaged) Place a container or bucket under pump valve
to catch material while priming. Open ball valve located on bottom of filter assembly on pump. Bring
up pressure on material pump gauge just enough to cause stroking of pump. After a smooth flow of
material is flowing from valve, close the valve. Once pump is primed, it will stall (stop stroking), and
the air may be increased to operating pressures. Generally 30 - 50 psi, depending on output and
transfer efficiency desired.

4. Catalyst Slave Pump:

· Open ball valve of catalyst manifold (if applicable).

· Eliminate air pockets by manually

5. Engage slave pump.

· Open ball valve on catalyst manifold (if applicable)

· Eliminate air pockets by manually hand pumping the catalyst 5-10 short strokes (2-3 in. strokes
each time). While continuing to hand pump, close ball valve on catalyst manifold and continue with
short strokes until system is fully primed and pressurized. You should feel a strong resistance in the
pump stroke when system is properly primed (generally within 5 additional strokes or less). Engage
catalyst pump.

AIR PRESSURES

1. Air requirement recommendations:

· A minimum of 100 psi on main air.

· 20 - 30 CFM for chopper systems

2. Material pump: 30 - 50 psi

3. Catalyst Atomizing Air: Catalyst atomizing air should be balanced generally between a range of 15 ­25 psi. It should be low enough to reduce catalyst over-spray and high enough to atomize catalyst
efficiently. This allows user to attain and operate under optimum efficiency.

TESTING SPRAY PATTERN

Testing of your spray pattern should be performed away from original part. Use paper or cardboard to
check the following:

· Spray pattern width and output

· Catalization

· Spray pattern definition (fingers and tails):

· Adjust as necessary with the “MVP Air Assist” adjustment screw to give the finest pattern
available by eliminating fingers and tails.

· Check glass distribution

After completion of the above procedures, you may now confidently use your MVP system

Chapter

Shut-Down Procedures

2

1. Trigger gun until pump shaft is in the full down position (at bottom of stroke position).

2. Engage gun trigger lock.

3. Relieving pressures:

· Close main air valve to system.

· Purge excess air from system by relieving air from the bottom of the air filter or water trap.

· Catalyst pressure: “Dump” or relieve catalyst pressure at catalyst manifold (if applicable) by
opening catalyst ball valve. Pressure will immediately be relieved. Close the ball valve at once to
avoid draining of catalyst from catalyst line.

· Material pressure: Place a container under material ball valve at bottom of fluid filter assembly to
catch material flow when relieving pressure. Slowly open material ball valve to relieve pressure.
Remember - the pump is under extreme pressure. Use the utmost caution when opening the
valve to avoid injury or being sprayed with material. Once material pressure is relieved, close ball
valve.

NOTE:

When cleaning gun with solvents, avoid geting solvent in exhause port of “air trigger” gun by

covering port with thumb or finger, and pointing gun downward while cleaning.

4. Remove catalyst and material tip assemblies from head of gun and clean thoroughly.

5. Thoroughly clean diffuser cavity in front of gun head.

6. Inspect entire gun and equipment for over spray and clean.

System is now “shut-down” and ready for the next start-up

Chapter

ATC Gun Instructions

3

FEATURES OF THE AT SERIES ACTUATED GUNS

There is basically one adjustment on the gun. This is the air refinement adjustment. All adjustments of
needles, etc. have been taken out of ht egun. The AT series guns are “air trigger” guns. Air is moved into
two chambers in which are located two pistons. The air moves the pistons forward or backward depend­ing on the position of the trigger, e.g. on or off. These air pistons in turn are attached to the needle as­semblies. This actuation is what opens and closes the valves. The response is instantaneous. There is
no lead or lag of catalyst spraying without resin or vice-versa.

The seat, diffuser, and packing arrangement are built into a cartridge assembly for service, adjustment or
replacement. The cartridge is removed from the front of the gun.

The catalyst valve is the same unique, patented design as on our previous guns. It is also removable from
the front of the gun.

The air valve for triggering the gun is a 4-way air valve that works the same as the catalyst valve. A rod
spool design with the three O-rings opens and closes the air passages to the pistons.

The AT series guns are the most advanced state of the art guns introduced to the composites industry.
This series features low maintenance, few adjustments and superb quality. The gun will help give you a
superior finished product along with few problems, and a long life of service provided you do not soak the

gun in acetone.

Additional benefits will be seen as the needles are kept out of the spraying atmosphere and enclosed
inside the gun. The air section and the fluid section of the gun are separate, avoiding the possibility of
fluid in the air section. The guns are light weight, well balanced and feature the patented air assisted
airless design.

BASIC TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE FOR “AT” GUNS

Problem

Air leaking from exhaust port on back
handle while trigger is OFF position.

Air leaking from exhaust port on back of
handle while trigger in OFF or ON
position.

Catalyst leaking from catalyst tip while
gun is sitting, not being triggered.

Catalyst leaks from week hole on
catalyst side of gun.

No catalyst is coming from gun.

Possible Cause(s)

O-ring material worn or cut.
O-rings on catalyst piston worn or cut.
O-rings on trigger valve worn or cut.

O-rings on trigger valve worn or cut.
O-rings on catalyst valve and/or material

piston worn or nicked.

O-rings on catalyst valve worn or cut.

O-rings on catalyst valve worn or cut.

Catalyst air piston is not actuating.

Plugged catalyst restrictor (allen screw
with orifice located in front of catalyst
valve).

Recommended Solution

Replace O-rings.

Replace O-rings.

Replace O-rings.

Replace O-rings.

Check for clogged catalyst air passages
(small holes underneath back cylinder).
Note: There is more than one
passageway from holes.

Clean and clear orifice in front of
catalyst valve.

Material is leaking from tip (front of gun).

Material is leaking from weep hole on
material side of gun.

Plugged catalyst passageway in head of
gun or catalyst tips.

No catalyst flow to gun.

Loose diffuser seat.

Worn needle and/or seat.
O-ring on diffuser nicked or cut.
Loose diffuser seat.

Worn needle packing

Inspect, clean and clear passageways.

See “Slave Pump-Trouble Shooting”

Tighten diffuser seat 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a
time until snug and then one more 1/4
turn. Over tightening of diffuser seat
may cause bindng of material needle.

Replace worn items.
Replace O-rings.
Adjust until snug. Then turn 1/4 to 1/2

turn more. Don’t over tighten.
Replace packing and adjust as indicated

above.

Chapter

RC-1000 & RC-110101

4

Roving Cutter Instructions

RC-1000

The RC-1000 cutter was designed to cut glass roving into short lengths of 1/2” to 4”, and dispense it into a
resin fan. When properly adjusted, the chopped glass will be spread out evenly from edge to edge of the
resin pattern. Also, the glass/resin mixture on the part will need a minimum amount of rolling.

AIR REQUIREMENTS

The RC-1000 requires 15 CFM of clean, filtered air at a minimum of 90 PSI to operate efficiently. The air
supply hose must have a minimum 5/16” inside diameter for a 25-foot hose. A longer hose may need a
larger inside diameter. Lower air pressures or smaller hose could result in poor operation.

OPERATION

To introduce roving to the cutter, double up the end of roving and insert into one of the three holes in the
feed bar on top of the cutter. The motor control knob on the bottom of the manifold assembly should be
opened about a full turn out. The blower control knob on the side should be about 1/2 turn out at the
beginneing. Pull trigger and glass will be dispensed into the resin fan. The blower control keeps air mov­ing through the chopper cover to help keep it from plugging. By opening or closing the motor control knob,
the glass output will increase or decrease accordingly. Adjust both motor control and blower control to
produce the desired output and pattern.

ADJUSTMENTS

Idler Bearing: With glass roving in place, idler should hold glass against the anvil sleeve. Excessive

tension may cause the glass to wrap around the idler bearing. Adjustments are accomplished by loosen­ing the idler bolt, rotating the eccentric nut and then retightening.

Air Motor: The air motor on your cutter is precision built and with proper care, under normal operation,
will last hundreds of hours of continuous use. It is important that this motor be lubricated at the end of
each working shift. Lubrication is best accomplished by removing the motor speed control valve, and
inserting 8 drops of a lightweight oil. Replace needle valve and run the cutter for approximately five sec­onds. It is not necessary to cut glass curing this time. The clearances of this motor are extremely critical.
For this reason, it is advisable that the motor be sent to an authorized distributor for repair. The warranty
is void if this motor is opened by any except factory-authorized repair centers.

Cutter Adjustment: The glass should enter the resin fan as soon as possible without excessive glass
fallout. Normally, if the glass enters the resin when the glass pattern and resin pattern are about the same
width it will give the best resluts. This is achieved by centering the glass pattern by moving the cutter left or
right -- forward or backward.

DISASSEMBLY OF CUTTER

Remove the air motor and manifold assembly by first removing the snap ring and anvil sleeve. Then loosen
screw and the motor and manifold will slide out of the backplate. DO NOT USE A HAMMER TO FORCE
MOTOR OUT. If frozen, a slight pressure with a screwdriver between the motor and backplate will do fine.
To remove blower and motor control manifold will then drop free from the air motor. Cutterhead and idler
bearing can be taken off of the backplate by unscrewing their hold down bolts from the corresponding ec­centric nuts.

BLADE REPLACEMENT

The cutter comes from the factory set to cut 1-inch lengths of glass rovings by using for evenly
spaced blades inserted in the cutting head assembly. There are slots ever 1/2-inch on the cutting
head. By inserting or removing blades you can vary the length of cut for different applications.
However, the 1-inch length is the most popular length used.

To replace cutting blades, pry out the blad retainer and spring using a small screwdriver. The old
blade will fall free of the slot when this is done. When inserting the new blades, be sure that they are
on the front side of the slot, then insert retaining bar. Finally , insert the retaining spring. This is
accomplished by using a pair of needle nose pliers.

WARNING:

Use caution to prevent cuts as these blades are razor sharp!

RC-1101-1 ASSEMBLY OF AIR MOTOR

1. Remove Burrs: With fine file or emery cloth.

2. End Clearance: Average end clearance .0015” to .002”. To get end clearance take micrometer

reading of body minust micrometer readin gof rotor assembly, add gaskets (if needed) to get re­quired clearance, assemble air motor with gaskets on both drive and dead end.

3. Select End Plate (Drive): End plate with no threads in hub.

4. Assemble Rotor and End Plate (Drive): Position bearing on shaft and with bearing pusher, press

bearing into end plate hub.

5. Assemble Bearing: Position bearing on shaft and with bearing pusher, press bearing into end

plate hub.

6. Position Rotor Assembly: Using inner-race tapper, tap inner-race of bearing until slight drag

between end plate and rotor assembly.

7. Position Body: Long port is exhaust, small hole drilled through body, intersecting hole drilled from

top is intake. For clockwise rotation small hole is on your right. For counterclockwise rotation small
hole is on your left.

8. Assemble Gasket (Drive): Take approximate 1/2 total gasket needed for end clearance. As-

semble on drive end, hold in position with few drops of oil, punch hole in gasket over air passage.

9. Assemble End Plate, Rotor and Body: Position end plate and rotor in body, over gasket, as-

semble screws, snug, oil hole in end plate to top of body.

10. Top Clearance: Place parts in align-up fixture, resting on hub. Using a .0015” shim, have a snug
fit between tightest segment and top of body.

11. Assemble Vanes: With angle on vane toward shaft.

12. Assemble Gasket (Dead): Take balance of fasket from overall clearance, hold in position with few
drops of oil. Punch hole in gasket over air passage.

13. Select End Plate (Dead): End plate with threads in hub. When assembled, kidney ports in end
plates must be on intake side.

14. Assemble End Plate (Dead): Position end plate over shaft, place on body, assemble screws,
snug, loosen one turn.

15. Assemble Bearing: Place bearing on shaft, using bearing pusher, position bearing in end plate.

16. Check Movement of End Plate: End plate must move back and forth. If no movement, top clear­ance is not in center-reset top clearance. If moves, snug screws, remove from fixture, tighten
screws.

17. Adjust End Clearance: Rotor is snug against drive end plate. Using inner-race tapper, tap inner­race of bearing (very lightly) in dead end plate until rotor is free. Push and turn, pull and turn, until
no drag on either end plate. For finer adjustment start air motor, adjust by sound.

18. Assemble Seal: Press into end plate, small amount of grease on seal.

19. Assemble End Cap: Into end plate.

20. T est Air Motor: For normal duties.

BASIC TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE FOR CHOPPERS

Problem

Cutter not shutting off.

Cutter does not come on.

Glass binds up.

Possible Cause(s)

Stuck chopper poppet valve

Worn poppet valve seat.

Broken poppet valve spring.
Sticking resin needle prohibiting

actuation of poppet valve
Bent trigger
Stuck poppet valve
Obstruction in roving path.

Improper anvil sleeve to bearing tension.
Improper cutter head to anvil sleeve

tension.
Resin on roving.

Recommended Solution

Replace and lubricate O-ring on chopper
poppet valve in gun.

Replace
Replace

Replace packings

Replace
Clean, replace and lubricate seals.
Trace roving path from source to

chopper for any obstructions and fix as
necessary.

Adjust as necessary .
Adjust as necessary .

Clean as necessary , keep roving away
from resin and overspray .

Improper chop length.

Cutter running too slow.

Worn cutter wheel.
Open slots in cutter wheel.

Worn or broken blades.
Worn or misadjusted anvil sleeve.
Worn blades
Tension on anvil sleeve to bearing or

cutter head too tight.
Low air volume.

Worn air motor
“Dry” air motor

Chopper poppet in gun sticking.

Replace
Be sure all blade slots are filled with a

retainer bar and spacer (whether a blade
is inserted or not).

Replace
Replace or adjust properly
Replace blades
Adjust as necessary .

Inspect hoses for kinks or cuts.
Inspect primary air line to system for

proper diameter and volume. Call MVP
to discuss.

Replace or rebuild.
Oil air motor daily with 3-5 drops of MVP

AMO air motor oil.
Remove, replace O-rings and lubricate.

(Check for broken poppet spring and
replace if necessary .)

Cutter not running.

Chopper poppet stuck in closed position.

Air motor “locked up”.

Clean, replace O-rings if necessary and
lubricate.

Rebuild or replace air motor.

Chapter

Tungsten Carbide Spray

5

Nozzle Information

TUNGSTEN CARBIDE SPRAY NOZZLE SELECTION

X - XXX

For MG-3000 use . . . . . . . M2------ ------Orifice size in thousandths of an inch

For LW-2500 use . . . . . . . . LW------

For ATG-3500 use . . . . . . . . .ATG------ ------1/2 spray pattern width at 12” away

For ATC-4000 use . . . . . . . . . ATC------ (double for actual width)

For MIX-1000 use . . . . . . . . . ALCEL------

For MIX-6000-C & MIX-5500-G use . . . . . MIX------

**It is important to select the proper spray nozzle in order to get the optimum efficiency out of your MVP

Spray System**

DETERMINING F ACTORS

Pattern Width - The type and size of the mold being sprayed will determine the pattern width. Too wide

may produce waste.
Output - The orifice size and fluid pressure determine the material output of a spray nozzle. The following

chart will help in selecting the proper spray nozzle.

BASED ON FLOW OF W ATER

Standard Orifice Size GPM - 500 PSI GPM - 1000 PSI

.015 .12 .16
.018 .18 .25
.021 .24 .33
.023 .28 .40
.026 .35 .50
.031 .53 .75
.036 .71 1.00
.043 1.10 1.50
.049 1.30 1.85
.052 1.40 2.00
.058 1.60 2.50
.062 2.10 3.00
.068 2.50 3.50
.072 2.80 4.00
.078 3.50 5.00
.085 3.90 5.50

MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS FOR

FLAT SPRAY TUNGSTEN CARBIDE TIPS

Your carbide tip has a precisely machined orifice and with proper care will give a long useful life. Remem­ber, the orifice tip is brittle . . . it should never be dropped . . . or probed with a sharp metal object. The
following steps should be taken to keep the tip clean and ready for use:

Immediately after spraying

STEP 1

submerge spray tip in
solvent until film or coating
dissolves completely.

STEP 2

STEP 3

STEP 4

Blow out tip with
compressed air.

Use pointed wooden stick
to remove any particles that
are left.

Inspect carefully through
magnifying glass or
microscope. Repeat steps
1-3 if necessary.

NOTE: All tips have been paint-spray tested. Some orifices are extremely small and barely

visible. Check with Step 4.

Chapter

Basic Trouble Shooting Guide

6

Problem

No catalyst coming from
gun.

Catalyst spitting from gun.

HPC-2000 Slave Pump

Possible Cause(s)

Ball valve open on catalyst manifold (if applicable).

Air is drawn into catalyst siphon assembly
Cracked or deteriorated (pin holes) inlet nipple at

bottom of slave pump.
Worn or cut O-ring in inlet nipple.
Improper seal around siphon hose.

Cracked or deteriorated (pin holes) catalyst siphon
hose.

Cracked or deteriorated elbow assembly on catalyst
jug assembly .

Worn or cut O-ring on elbow assembly.
Inverted washer in elbow or inlet nipple.

Recommended Solution

Be sure ball valve is fully closed.

Replace inlet nipple

Replace O-ring in inlet nipple.
Check seal and be sure hose is inserted all the

way into nipple.
Replace catalyst siphon hose.

Replace elbow assembly .

Replace O-ring.
Inspect and be certain that flat side of washer is

against the O-ring for proper sealing.

No catalyst flow on down
stroke of catalyst pump.

No catalyst flow on upstroke
of catalyst pump.

Loss of catalyst pressure.

Catalyst leaking from top of
catalyst slave pump.

Debris in lower ball and seat assembly .
Chipped or worn ball and/or seat.
Debris in ball seat assembly located at bottom of

pump shaft (commonly referred to as upper ball seat
assembly).

Chipped or worn ball and/or seat assembly .
Worn or cut O-ring on ball seat assembly located

on bottom of pump shaft (commonly referred to as
upper ball seat assembly).

Sticking catalyst pressure relief valve assembly,
located on catalyst manifold (if applicable).

Worn or cut O-rings located in top of pump.
Worn guide bushing located in upper jam nut (guide

bushing not shown on breakdown). A bent pump
shaft may cause wearing of guide bushing -- see
below.

Bent catalyst pump shaft.

Remove and clean.
Inspect and replace ball and/or seat if necessary .
Remove and clean.

Inspect and replace ball and/or seat if necessary .
Replace O-ring.

Disassemble, inspect and clean. Replace seals
if necessary .

Replace O-rings.
Replace guide bushing or whole jam nut

assembly.

Replace pump shaft.

Fluid Sections

Problem

Fast downstroke (winking of
pattern).

Fast upstroke (winking of
pattern).

Partial dive on downstroke.

Pump stroke “chatter”.

Material leakage into
solvent cup.

Possible Cause(s)

Debris on lower ball seat.

Debris on upper ball seat.

Air siphoning.

Plugged material filter

Build up of material around pump upper packings/
seals.

Loose packings.

Worn packings.

Worn shaft.

Recommended Solution

Disassemble and clean.

Disassemble and clean.

Check for loose fittings from bottom of pump to
the end of the siphon assembly. Inspect for
kinks, cuts, loose fittings, etc. and correct as
necessary.

Disassemble and clean filter.
Disassemble and replace packings/seals.

Clean solvent cup and tighten as applicable 1/2
turn at a time. NOTE: Pressure must be off of
pump before adjusting.

Disassemble and replace upper packings.

Disassemble and replace shaft.

Intermittent stopping of
pump stroke. (Can cause
resin to continue spraying
without catalyst.)

Decrease in volume of resin
delivery .

Air lock in surge chamber. This can be caused by
the pump running when the drum is empty , or when
moving a siphon hose assembly from one drum to
another. Both of these occurences can allow air
into the system.

Clogged material filter.
Worn cylinder. Fluid is bypassing the packings

through the worn areas.

1) Reduce pump pressure to zero, disconnect
slave, slowly open vall valve on filter assembly ,
allow resing and air to escape. 2) Slowly
increase pump pressure until pump begins
stroking, after smooth flow of resin is achieved,
close valve and reconnect slave.

Periodically check drums to be sure of adequate
supply of material. Use above measures after
transfering siphon assembly from one drum to
another.

Disassemble and clean.
Disassemble and inspect cylinder for wearing

when doing repairs.