Magnum Venus Plastech E-FIT-G-CMB-APS-20 User Manual

E-FIT APS Gelcoat System

E-FIT -G-CMB-APS-20 Maintenance & Repair

MAGNUM VENUS PRODUCTS

Maintenance & Repair Manual

Part No. E-FIT-G-CMB-APS-20

Revision 05.10.04

E-FIT -APS Gelcoat System

Maintenance & Repair Manual

Corporate HQ & Mfg.

Phone: [phone]
Fax: [phone]

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© 2004 Magnum Venus Product s Manual Part No: MCS-CMB-APS-11

MVP Technology Center

Phone: [phone] [phone]
Fax: [phone]

Table of Content s

E-FIT -APS Gelcoat System

Maintenance & Repair Manual

CHAPTER 1 - START-UP PROCEDURES
Inspection & Maintenance of Unit
Preparation and Priming of “New” System
Preparation and Priming of Previously Used System
Air Pressures & Testing of Spray Pattern

CHAPTER 2 - SHUT-DOWN PROCEDURES

CHAPTER 3 - ATG GUN INSTRUCTIONS

CHAPTER 4 - NOZZLE INFORMATION

CHAPTER 5 - BASIC TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDES
HPC-2000 Slave Pump
Fluid Section

CHAPTER 6 - AIR MOTOR
Disassembly

Assembly

CHAPTER 7 - CAUTIONS & WARNINGS

CHAPTER 8 - PARTS DRAWINGS

Chapter

S tart-Up Procedures

1

INSPECTION & MAINTENANCE OF UNIT

1. Check solvent cup to be sure it is 1/3 full.

2. Check catalyst and material levels.

3. Inspect material spray tip and O-ring and replace if necessary.

4. Inspect catalyst tip assembly and replace O-rings (if applicable).

5. Inspect tip pin O-rings on front of gun head and replace if nicked or worn.

6. Assemble catalyst tip and material tip onto gun.

7. Lubricate threads on retaining ring and assemble onto gun.

8. Inspect hose assemblies and connections for leaks and wear and tear. Replace if necessary. Do
not wait until hose is so worn that it may burst.

9. Check roving quantity.

10. Inspect and replace as necessary:

· Chopper blades

· Anvil sleeve

· Cutter head bearing

· Idler bearing

11. Inspect and adjust as necessary:

· Cutter head to anvil sleeve tension

· Idler bearing to anvil sleeve tension

· Check chopper position for most efficient disbursement of chop into spray pattern

12. Oil cutter assembly air motor with MVP oil as necessary (normally 2-3 drops daily depending on
usage).

PREPARA TION AND PRIMING OF “NEW” SYSTEM

1. Be sure all air regulators are turned completely to the left, shutting off air to the components.

2. Slowly open main air.

3. Prime empty catalyst line:

· Disengage catalyst pump

· Open ball valve on catalyst manifold (if applicable)

· Eliminate air pockets by manually hand pumping the catalyst 5-10 short strokes (2-3 in.). After
eliminating air pockets, and while continuing to hand pump, close ball valve on catalyst manifold.

· Pull and hold trigger on gun while hand pumping catalyst pump with short strokes until there is a
solid, steady catalyst flow from the head of the gun. This will ensure that all air is purged from the
line. Release trigger.

· Continue to hand pump the catalyst with short strokes until catalyst is fully primed and pressurized
(generally within 5 additional strokes or less)

NOTE: Do NOT engage slave pump until material pump has been primed.

4. Material Pump: (be sure catalyst pump is disengaged) Place a container or bucket under pump valve
to catch material while priming. Open ball valve located on bottom of filter assembly on pump. Bring
up pressure on material pump gauge just enough to cause stroking of pump. After a smooth flow of
material is flowing from valve, close the valve. Once pump is primed, it will stall (stop stroking), and
the air may be increased to operating pressures. Generally 30 - 50 psi, depending on output and
transfer efficiency desired.

5. Engage slave pump.

PREPARATION AND PRIMING OF PREVIOUSLY USED SYSTEM

1. Slowly open main air.

2. Disengage slave pump.

3. Material Pump: (be sure catalyst pump is disengaged) Place a container or bucket under pump valve
to catch material while priming. Open ball valve located on bottom of filter assembly on pump. Bring
up pressure on material pump gauge just enough to cause stroking of pump. After a smooth flow of
material is flowing from valve, close the valve. Once pump is primed, it will stall (stop stroking), and
the air may be increased to operating pressures. Generally 30 - 50 psi, depending on output and
transfer efficiency desired.

4. Catalyst Slave Pump:

· Open ball valve of catalyst manifold (if applicable).

· Eliminate air pockets by manually hand pumping the catalyst 5-10 short strokes (2-3 in. strokes
each time). While continuing to hand pump, close ball valve on catalyst manifold and continue with
short strokes until system is fully primed and pressurized. You should feel a strong resistance in the
pump stroke when system is properly primed (generally within 5 additional strokes or less). Engage
catalyst pump.

AIR PRESSURES

1. Air requirement recommendations:

· A minimum of 100 psi on main air.

· 15 - 20 CFM for gelcoat systems

2. Material pump: 30 - 50 psi

3. Catalyst Atomizing Air: Catalyst atomizing air should be balanced generally between a range of 15 ­25 psi. It should be low enough to reduce catalyst over-spray and high enough to atomize catalyst
efficiently. This allows user to attain and operate under optimum efficiency.

TESTING SPRAY PA TTERN

Testing of your spray pattern should be performed away from original part. Use paper or cardboard to
check the following:

· Spray pattern width and output

· Catalization

· Spray pattern definition (fingers and tails):

· Adjust as necessary with the “MVP Air Assist” adjustment screw to give the finest pattern
available by eliminating fingers and tails.

After completion of the above procedures, you may now confidently use your MVP system

Chapter

Shut-Down Procedures

2

1. Trigger gun until pump shaft is in the full down position (at bottom of stroke position).

2. Engage gun trigger lock.

3. Relieving pressures:

· Close main air valve to system.

· Purge excess air from system by relieving air from the bottom of the air filter or water trap.

· Catalyst pressure: “Dump” or relieve catalyst pressure at catalyst manifold (if applicable) by
opening catalyst ball valve. Pressure will immediately be relieved. Close the ball valve at once to
avoid draining of catalyst from catalyst line.

· Material pressure: Place a container under material ball valve at bottom of fluid filter assembly to
catch material flow when relieving pressure. Slowly open material ball valve to relieve pressure.
Remember - the pump is under extreme pressure. Use the utmost caution when opening the
valve to avoid injury or being sprayed with material. Once material pressure is relieved, close ball
valve.

NOTE:

When cleaning gun with solvents, avoid geting solvent in exhause port of “air trigger” gun by

covering port with thumb or finger, and pointing gun downward while cleaning.

4. Remove catalyst and material tip assemblies from head of gun and clean thoroughly.

5. Thoroughly clean diffuser cavity in front of gun head.

6. Inspect entire gun and equipment for over spray and clean.

System is now “shut-down” and ready for the next start-up

Chapter

ATC Gun Instructions

3

FEATURES OF THE AT SERIES ACTUATED GUNS

There is basically one adjustment on the gun. This is the air refinement adjustment. All adjustments of
needles, etc. have been taken out of ht egun. The AT series guns are “air trigger” guns. Air is moved into
two chambers in which are located two pistons. The air moves the pistons forward or backward depend­ing on the position of the trigger, e.g. on or off. These air pistons in turn are attached to the needle as­semblies. This actuation is what opens and closes the valves. The response is instantaneous. There is
no lead or lag of catalyst spraying without resin or vice-versa.

The seat, diffuser, and packing arrangement are built into a cartridge assembly for service, adjustment or
replacement. The cartridge is removed from the front of the gun.

The catalyst valve is the same unique, patented design as on our previous guns. It is also removable from
the front of the gun.

The air valve for triggering the gun is a 4-way air valve that works the same as the catalyst valve. A rod
spool design with the three O-rings opens and closes the air passages to the pistons.

The AT series guns are the most advanced state of the art guns introduced to the composites industry.
This series features low maintenance, few adjustments and superb quality. The gun will help give you a
superior finished product along with few problems, and a long life of service provided you do not soak the

gun in acetone.

Additional benefits will be seen as the needles are kept out of the spraying atmosphere and enclosed
inside the gun. The air section and the fluid section of the gun are separate, avoiding the possibility of
fluid in the air section. The guns are light weight, well balanced and feature the patented air assisted
airless design.

BASIC TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE FOR “AT” GUNS

Problem

Air leaking from exhaust port on back
handle while trigger is OFF position.

Air leaking from exhaust port on back of
handle while trigger in OFF or ON
position.

Catalyst leaking from catalyst tip while
gun is sitting, not being triggered.

Catalyst leaks from week hole on
catalyst side of gun.

No catalyst is coming from gun.

Possible Cause(s)

O-ring material worn or cut.
O-rings on catalyst piston worn or cut.
O-rings on trigger valve worn or cut.

O-rings on trigger valve worn or cut.
O-rings on catalyst valve and/or material

piston worn or nicked.

O-rings on catalyst valve worn or cut.

O-rings on catalyst valve worn or cut.

Catalyst air piston is not actuating.

Plugged catalyst restrictor (allen screw
with orifice located in front of catalyst
valve).

Recommended Solution

Replace O-rings.

Replace O-rings.

Replace O-rings.

Replace O-rings.

Check for clogged catalyst air passages
(small holes underneath back cylinder).
Note: There is more than one
passageway from holes.

Clean and clear orifice in front of
catalyst valve.

Material is leaking from tip (front of gun).

Material is leaking from weep hole on
material side of gun.

Plugged catalyst passageway in head of
gun or catalyst tips.

No catalyst flow to gun.

Loose diffuser seat.

Worn needle and/or seat.
O-ring on diffuser nicked or cut.
Loose diffuser seat.

Worn needle packing

Inspect, clean and clear passageways.

See “Slave Pump-Trouble Shooting”

Tighten diffuser seat 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a
time until snug and then one more 1/4
turn. Over tightening of diffuser seat
may cause bindng of material needle.

Replace worn items.
Replace O-rings.
Adjust until snug. Then turn 1/4 to 1/2

turn more. Don’t over tighten.
Replace packing and adjust as indicated

above.

Chapter

Tungsten Carbide Spray

4

Nozzle Information

TUNGSTEN CARBIDE SPRAY NOZZLE SELECTION

X - XXX

For MG-3000 use . . . . . . . M2------ ------Orifice size in thousandths of an inch

For LW-2500 use . . . . . . . . LW------

For ATG-3500 use . . . . . . . . .ATG------ ------1/2 spray pattern width at 12” away

For ATC-4000 use . . . . . . . . . ATC------ (double for actual width)

For MIX-1000 use . . . . . . . . . ALCEL------

For MIX-6000-C & MIX-5500-G use . . . . . MIX------

**It is important to select the proper spray nozzle in order to get the optimum efficiency out of your MVP

Spray System**

DETERMINING F ACTORS

Pattern Width - The type and size of the mold being sprayed will determine the pattern width. Too wide

may produce waste.
Output - The orifice size and fluid pressure determine the material output of a spray nozzle. The following

chart will help in selecting the proper spray nozzle.

BASED ON FLOW OF W ATER

Standard Orifice Size GPM - 500 PSI GPM - 1000 PSI

.015 .12 .16
.018 .18 .25
.021 .24 .33
.023 .28 .40
.026 .35 .50
.031 .53 .75
.036 .71 1.00
.043 1.10 1.50
.049 1.30 1.85
.052 1.40 2.00
.058 1.60 2.50
.062 2.10 3.00
.068 2.50 3.50
.072 2.80 4.00
.078 3.50 5.00
.085 3.90 5.50

MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS FOR

FLAT SPRAY TUNGSTEN CARBIDE TIPS

Your carbide tip has a precisely machined orifice and with proper care will give a long useful life. Remem­ber, the orifice tip is brittle . . . it should never be dropped . . . or probed with a sharp metal object. The
following steps should be taken to keep the tip clean and ready for use:

Immediately after spraying

STEP 1

submerge spray tip in
solvent until film or coating
dissolves completely.

STEP 2

STEP 3

STEP 4

Blow out tip with
compressed air.

Use pointed wooden stick
to remove any particles that
are left.

Inspect carefully through
magnifying glass or
microscope. Repeat steps
1-3 if necessary.

NOTE: All tips have been paint-spray tested. Some orifices are extremely small and barely

visible. Check with Step 4.

Chapter

Basic Trouble Shooting Guide

5

Problem

No catalyst coming from
gun.

Catalyst spitting from gun.

HPC-2000 Slave Pump

Possible Cause(s)

Ball valve open on catalyst manifold (if applicable).

Air is drawn into catalyst siphon assembly
Cracked or deteriorated (pin holes) inlet nipple at

bottom of slave pump.
Worn or cut O-ring in inlet nipple.
Improper seal around siphon hose.

Cracked or deteriorated (pin holes) catalyst siphon
hose.

Cracked or deteriorated elbow assembly on catalyst
jug assembly .

Worn or cut O-ring on elbow assembly.
Inverted washer in elbow or inlet nipple.

Recommended Solution

Be sure ball valve is fully closed.

Replace inlet nipple

Replace O-ring in inlet nipple.
Check seal and be sure hose is inserted all the

way into nipple.
Replace catalyst siphon hose.

Replace elbow assembly .

Replace O-ring.
Inspect and be certain that flat side of washer is

against the O-ring for proper sealing.

No catalyst flow on down
stroke of catalyst pump.

No catalyst flow on upstroke
of catalyst pump.

Loss of catalyst pressure.

Catalyst leaking from top of
catalyst slave pump.

Debris in lower ball and seat assembly .
Chipped or worn ball and/or seat.
Debris in ball seat assembly located at bottom of

pump shaft (commonly referred to as upper ball seat
assembly).

Chipped or worn ball and/or seat assembly .
Worn or cut O-ring on ball seat assembly located

on bottom of pump shaft (commonly referred to as
upper ball seat assembly).

Sticking catalyst pressure relief valve assembly,
located on catalyst manifold (if applicable).

Worn or cut O-rings located in top of pump.
Worn guide bushing located in upper jam nut (guide

bushing not shown on breakdown). A bent pump
shaft may cause wearing of guide bushing -- see
below.

Bent catalyst pump shaft.

Remove and clean.
Inspect and replace ball and/or seat if necessary .
Remove and clean.

Inspect and replace ball and/or seat if necessary .
Replace O-ring.

Disassemble, inspect and clean. Replace seals
if necessary .

Replace O-rings.
Replace guide bushing or whole jam nut

assembly.

Replace pump shaft.

Fluid Sections

Problem

Fast downstroke (winking of
pattern).

Fast upstroke (winking of
pattern).

Partial dive on downstroke.

Pump stroke “chatter”.

Material leakage into
solvent cup.

Possible Cause(s)

Debris on lower ball seat.

Debris on upper ball seat.

Air siphoning.

Plugged material filter

Build up of material around pump upper packings/
seals.

Loose packings.

Worn packings.

Worn shaft.

Recommended Solution

Disassemble and clean.

Disassemble and clean.

Check for loose fittings from bottom of pump to
the end of the siphon assembly. Inspect for
kinks, cuts, loose fittings, etc. and correct as
necessary.

Disassemble and clean filter.
Disassemble and replace packings/seals.

Clean solvent cup and tighten as applicable 1/2
turn at a time. NOTE: Pressure must be off of
pump before adjusting.

Disassemble and replace upper packings.

Disassemble and replace shaft.

Intermittent stopping of
pump stroke. (Can cause
resin to continue spraying
without catalyst.)

Decrease in volume of resin
delivery .

Air lock in surge chamber. This can be caused by
the pump running when the drum is empty , or when
moving a siphon hose assembly from one drum to
another. Both of these occurences can allow air
into the system.

Clogged material filter.
Worn cylinder. Fluid is bypassing the packings

through the worn areas.

1) Reduce pump pressure to zero, disconnect
slave, slowly open vall valve on filter assembly ,
allow resing and air to escape. 2) Slowly
increase pump pressure until pump begins
stroking, after smooth flow of resin is achieved,
close valve and reconnect slave.

Periodically check drums to be sure of adequate
supply of material. Use above measures after
transfering siphon assembly from one drum to
another.

Disassemble and clean.
Disassemble and inspect cylinder for wearing

when doing repairs.

Chapter

Magnum Air Motor

6

DISASSEMBLY

1. Place motor in upstroke position. This can be accomplished by pushing rod toward top of the air
motor.

2. Remove four screws from deflector.

3. Remove deflector.

4. Remove 6 screws from air motor cap.

5. Remove air motor cap and gasket.

6. Loosen 4 screws, which hold valve plate and valve guide, until valve guide can be removed by
pulling upward.

7. Remove 4 screws and 4 washers from head assembly by pressing outward with a small allen
wrench.

8. With the aid of a screwdriver, unhook the legs of insert spring assembly from the bottom of valve
plate.

9. Remove valve plate and insert spring assembly from head by uplling upward. If valve plate is stuck,
tap the top edge lightly wiht a soft faced mallet. (Do not tap with anything metallic.)

10. Remove both inserts and insert spring assembly from valve plate.

11. Remove gasket from head assembly.

12. Remove two screws and two lockwashers from gland in head assembly.

13. With fingers, pull valve piston upward until gland has pulled out of its chamber.

14. Remove gland by sliding it up over valve piston.

15. Remove seal and O-ring from gland.

16. Disassemble valve piston from adapter.

17. Pull adapter upward until assembly is taut and grasp extension rod with fingers. Grasp extension
rod below adapter. Now push adapter down on extension rod and remove washer from extension
rod. Remove adapter.

18. Remove washer and “U” cup from adapter.

19. Remove 4 nuts from 4 connecting rods. (Leave 4 nuts on other end of connecting rods).

20. Remove 4 connecting rods.

21. Remove head assembly and place on the workbench with cap side down. This action will allow
washer to fall out of its cavity.

22. Remove O-ring from head assembly.

23. Remove 4 screws from gland permiting gland to be removed from head assembly.

24. Remove O-rings from gland.

25. Remove tube assembly from base.

26. Remove two O-rings from tube.

27. Remove cylinder from base. Usually during this step the piston and rod assembly will remain in
cylinder.

28. From base assembly (there are two types): Type one: remove snap ring, washer, “U” cup and
washer. Other type: remove O-ring.

29. Remove O-ring from base assembly.

30. Separate piston rod and piston assembly from cylinder.

31. Unscrew extension rod from rod assembly by holding rod assembly with adjustable type pliers and
placing a wrench on the provided wrench flats at the top of extension rod.

32. Unscrew piston rod from adapter. Use provided wrench flats on piston rod. Next, remove rod
assembly from piston rod.

NOTE: Caution should be exercised not to mar or damage finish on extension rod and piston rod.

33. From adapter, remove nut, piston and O-ring.

ASSEMBLY

1. Clean with solvent and apply Loctite to external threads of adapter, then assemble O-ring, piston
assembly and nut and tighten to 160-180 foot pounds.

2. Clean the threads on rod, assembly and put the threaded end through the hole in adapter leaving the
brazed sleeve of rod assembly on the threaded side of adapter.

3. Hold rod assembly below threads with locking-type pliers. After applying Loctite “A” to the threads,
attach extension rod and draw up tight using wrench flats provided on extension rod.

NOTE: Do not mar or damage surface of extension rod.

4. Place the brazed sleeve end of rod assembly into the hole in the end of piston rod. After applying
thread sealant or teflon tape to threads, secure piston rod into adapter and draw up tight using
provided wrench flats on piston rod.

NOTE: Do not mar or damage surface of piston rod.

5. Install O-ring on base assembly.

6. On type one base assembly, install washer, “U” cup (lips up), washer and snap ring. In other type
base assembly, install O-ring.

7. Push piston rod through base assembly being careful not to damage the lips of “U” cup or O-ring.

8. Grease the inside of cylinder and fill area between lips of piston assembly with grease, then place
cylinder over piston and rod assembly.

9. Push piston assembly to the top of cylinder.

10. Install two O-rings on tube and insert tube assembly into provided hole of base assembly.

11. Install O-ring on gland.

12. Grease the bore in head assembly and insert gland assembly into bore of head assembly with a
twisting motion.

13. Align holes in gland and head assembly and secure with 4 screws.

14. Install O-ring on head assembly.

15. Push extension rod through O-ring in the base of head assembly.

16. Press head assembly down seating against cylinder and tube assembly.

17. Insert four connecting rods down through the holes in the flange of head assembly and base
assembly.

18. Screw four nuts on connecting rods. Alternately and evenly tighten four nuts.

19. Install “U” cup in adapter with lips down toward the thick flange of adapter.

20. Install O-rings in the gland.

21. Bend seal in a heard shape and install in gland next to O-ring.

22. Carefully push valve piston into gland to size seal. (After sizing, remove valve piston from gland.)

23. Slide washer over extension rod.

24. Pull extension rod up and grasp with two fingers.

25. Place AAM-3-4-ST special installation tool over extension rod with turned diameter down and the
chamber side up.

26. Fit the turned diameter of the AAM-3-4-ST special installation tool into the bore in the bottom of head
assembly.

27. Place adapter assembly down over extension rod withthe thread on the adapter up.

28. Insert washer into the groove on the top of the extension rod.

29. Pull adapter up around the washer.

30. Place washer over extension rod and onto adapter.

31. Clean with solvent and put Loctite “A” on the threads of adapter. Screw valve piston onto adapter and
tighten.

32. Push the assembled adapter and valve piston down through the AAM-3-4-ST special installation tool
until it bottoms.

33. Remove the AAM-3-4-ST special installation tool by pulling up on it.

34. Install gland assembly over the valve piston and push down, being careful to retain seal in the O-ring
groove.

35. Alighn the two screw holes and secure gland assembly to the head assembly with 2 screws and 2
lockwashers.

36. Insert spring assembly in the head assembly with the hooks down and the nylon roller toward valve
piston.

37. Apply grease to both inserts and place them in position with legs of insert toward valve piston and the
larger insert located in front of the larger diameter nylon roller. Also, the nylong roller on the insert
spring assembly should be between the legs of both inserts.

38. Apply grease to gasket side of valve plate and put gasket on valve plate. To determine correct side:
the screw holes nearest the top and bottom of valve plate are toward the exhaust port on the head
assembly. Also the pins in valve plate are at the top.

39. Hold the inserts against the valve piston and slide the gasket and valve plate between the two inserts
and head assembly. Be sure the large holes in the valve plate are located in front of the larger insert.
Also be sure the pins are located at the top of the valve plate.

40. Hook the round coil in insert spring assembly over the pins in valve plate.

41. Hook the bottom of the insert spring assembly into the holes on the side of the valve plate.

42. Insert valve guide against the face of the valve plate. The legs of valve guide should be down with the
leg having the threaded hole nearest the bottom should be located nearest the exhaust port of the
head assembly.

43. Place washer on each of the 4 screws and insert in the provided holes and tighten evenly across
corners.

NOTE: To ease the alignment of holes, an O-pick is very helpful.

44. Install gasket in air motor cap and secure with 6 screws.

45. Place deflector on the exhaust port of head assembly with the opening down and secure with 4
screws.

NOTE: It is highly recommended that a AAM-3-4-ST inst allation tool be used. This will greatly ease

installation of adapter and piston valve and reduce chances of damage to the “U” cup. A

damaged “U” cup and usually lead to air motor failure.