Unit Not Cooling Enough ......................................................................................................... 17
Too much foam......................................................................................................................... 19
Unit not Dispensing Beer.......................................................................................................... 20
Can I Use Keg Cooler for Import Kegs? .................................................................................. 21
Beers with Kegs using American Sankey Coupler ............................................................... 22
1
Parts / Components
Main Cooler
This is the refrigerator part of the Keg Cooler. It is a small refrigerator with holes to
allow for the hoses and beer tower. There is a thermostat dial inside the front of the unit at the
top left that controls the temperature in the unit. The ‘cold’ is generated from a cold plate in the
rear of the unit.
Castors
Elevate the unit
Allow unit to be easily moved
Can be locked for stability
Necessary for door to work properly.
Front castors use metal washers to
distribute weight
Rear Castors screw to metal frame of
the unit
Attached Front Caster w/ Washer
Interior
The inside of the refrigerator
Where the Keg goes
Has metal plate at bottom to hold kegs weight
Thermostat is accessed inside
Cooler w/ Keg of
Bud in it
Thermostat Control
Hole for Red Air Hose
Rear Cooling Plate
Metal Plate to put keg on
2
Thermostat
The thermostat, located in the front, top left corner inside the refrigerator, is used for
controlling the internal temperature of the unit.
Dial is numbered 1-6, and off. The
higher the number, the colder the
temperature
Can be used to turn unit off
Also called the ‘cold control’
Close up of the thermostat
removed from it’s housing.
*Note the adjustment screw
that will change the range it
cools.
Rear
Simply put, the back of the Keg
Cooler. For the most part, once the unit is
assembled and running, the back is out of
site. Would mostly be accessed only to
check pressure on the regulator, turn CO2
on or off, or to refill the CO2 cylinder.
The back of the refrigerator
Compressor is in the back
CO2 Cylinder and Regulator are
in the back
Serial # and spec sheet located
on back
Has hole for Red Air Hose to
pass through
Close up of sticker with specs, wiring diagram,
model and serial #’s.
Also in view is the hole to allow the air hose to
pass to interior of unit.
3
These knobs are what the CO2 cylinder
bracket attach to.
View of the rear of the unit with the
cylinder bracket, CO2 cylinder,
regulator, and air hose.
CO2 Cylinder
Metal air canister designed to hold compressed air
Has brass valve that regulator connects to
Black On/Off handle to start/stop flow of air
Does NOT come full, must be filled prior to use
Sits in cylinder bracket, which attaches to the rear
of the unit
Valve must be opened ALL the way for proper
operation of the unit
CO2 cylinder (left) and
cylinder bracket (right)
4
Regulator (Single or Double Gauge)
The regulator controls, or ‘Regulates’ the air flow coming from the CO2 cylinder. It
consists of a brass fitting that attaches it via hex nut to the cylinder. This nut must be firmly
seated, and tightened with a wrench. There is a rubber washer built in to the connection to
prevent leaks. There are 2 types of regulator, single and double gauge. The regulator also has a
secondary shut off valve, which can shut off air flow going to the keg, while still allowing air
from the cylinder to the regulator.
Gauges indicate air pressure in p.s.i. (lbs. per square inch)
Single gauge regulator shows pressure leaving the regulator
Double gauge shows air pressure leaving regulator, and air pressure in the CO2
cylinder
Secondary cut off valve stops air flow from regulator to the keg
Secondary cut off valve must be all the way open for proper operation
Flathead screw sticking out the front used to adjust pressure to the keg
Left – Single Gauge Regulator
Right – Double Gauge Regulator
5
Air pressure in the
CO2 cylinder
(double gauge only)
Attaches to Red Air
Hose. Air flows from
here to coupler.
Air pressure to Coupler
(Keg). Typically
between 10-14 p.s.i.
Screw used to adjust the
pressure to the Keg.
Attaches to CO2
cylinder. Air comes
in to regulator.
Above: Another type of secondary cut off,
again in the “Off” or “Closed” position.
You can faintly see an upside down “C”
and an “O” at the rounded end of the lever
indicating the position.
Below: One type of secondary cut off
valve in the “OFF” or “Closed”
position. In this position, no air is
flowing to the coupler. The lever
would be down for the “ON” or “Open”
setting. Open allows air to flow to the
coupler.
6
Red Air Hose
The red air hose is the red tube the runs between the bottom of the regulator (under the
secondary cut off valve) and the coupler
5/16” Inner Diameter and 9/16”
Outer Diameter
Hose is 5’ long
Attaches to bottom of regulator with
hose clamp
Runs from regulator through hole in
back of cooler to the interior
Attaches to coupler with hex nut
Below: Barbed connector where Red Hose
connects to Coupler. Hex nut holds and secures
connector in place
Above: Red Hose and barbed connector
assembled, ready to attach to coupler via
the hex nut. Notice washer, which goes
into this connection.
Red air hose running from regulator through hole
to interior of unit.
Red air hose coming in through hole and
attached to coupler inside cooler.
7
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