Luster Leaf 1835 User Manual

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FOR USE IN SOIL ONLY. DO NOT USE IN LIQUIDS.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION REGARDING YOUR NEW METER

These instructions cover all aspects related to the analyzer’s function and will help guide you to experiencing the proper temperature, pH and
fertility range for the plants you intend to grow.

BEFORE TESTING THE SOIL

If you are preparing to plant a bed of plants or shrubs, or to plant a crop of fruits and vegetables, or to put out grass seed, you will find it
beneficial to sample and test the soil in a number of locations in the area to confirm that the soil is warm enough for what you want to plant,
that the soil‘s pH is generally consistent over the entire area and that it is within the plant‘s pH range.

BASIC OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

1. Press the power button to turn the meter on and off.

2. When the meter is turned on for the first time it defaults to fertility.

3. After using for the first time, the meter will default to the function last used.

4. The toggle switch is located on the right side of the meter.

5. Move the toggle switch up or down to change test function.

6. The test function in use is indicated by the blinking arrow on the meter face.

7. When not in active use, the meter will turn off after about four (4) minutes,
to preserve battery life.

HOW TO USE YOUR METER TO MEASURE SOIL TEMPERATURE

1. With the unit turned on, and in temperature mode, insert the probe to a minimum depth of 2” to 3” (5-8 cm) into the soil.

2. Wait 60 seconds to acclimatize the probe and note the LCD reading. Remove the probe from the soil.

Soil Temperature Ranges

Vegetable

Will Germinate

Ideal Germination

Transplanting Seedlings Out

Asparagus

50F - 90F

70F

Beans

60F - 90F

80F

Beets

40F - 90F

80F

Broccoli

40F - 90F

80F

50F

Cabbage

40F - 90F

80F

45F

Cantaloupe

60F - 100F

90F

65F

Carrot

40F - 90F

80F

Cauliflower

40F - 90F

80F

Celery

40F - 80F

70F

45F

Chard

40F - 90F

80F

Corn

50F - 100F

80F

60F

Cucumber

60F - 100F

90F

65F

Endive

40F - 75F

75F

Lettuce

40F - 75F

75F

Okra

60F - 100F

90F

70F

Onion

40F - 100F

90F

45F

Parsley

40F - 90F

80F

Parsnip

40F - 90F

70F

Peas

40F - 80F

70F

45F

Pepper

60F - 90F

80F

65F

Pumpkin

60F - 100F

90F

65F

Radish

40F - 90F

80F

Spinach

40F - 80F

75F

Squash

60F - 100F

90F

65F

Tomato

50F - 100F

80F

60F

Watermelon

60F - 110F

90F

65F

HOW TO USE YOUR METER TO MEASURE pH

1. Remove the top 2” of the surface soil. Break up & crumble the soil underneath to a depth of 5”. Remove any stones or organic debris
such as leaves and twigs because they can affect the final result.

2. Thoroughly wet the soil with water (ideally rain or distilled water) to a mud consistency.

3. Use the toggle switch to move the indicator arrow to point to pH.

Toggle Switch

Hold Button

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4. Using the supplied pad, lightly shine 3” - 4” (7 - 10 cm) of the probe, carefully avoiding the bullet shaped tip, to remove any oxides that
may have formed on the surface of the metal. Wipe the probe clean using a cotton ball or tissue. Always wipe away from the probe
tip, toward the probe handle.

5. Use the toggle switch to move the indicator arrow to point to pH.

6. Take the initial reading: Push the probe directly into the moistened soil to a depth of 2½”-3”. If it does not slip into the ground fairly
easily, select a new position. Never force the probe. Twist the probe clockwise and counter-clockwise between your fingers several
times to ensure that damp soil is well distributed over the surface of the probe. Wait for 60 seconds for the probe to acclimatize and
note the LCD reading. Remove the probe from the soil.

7. Based on the results of the initial reading, take the final reading:

a. If the initial reading is pH 7 or higher, wipe any soil particles from the surface of the probe. Re-shine the probe and insert

back into the soil at a different point, avoiding the first hole made by the probe. Twist the probe two or three times between
the fingers, as before, and wait 30 seconds before taking the final reading.

b. If the initial reading is below pH 7, wipe any soil particles from the surface of the probe. Do not re-shine the probe. Insert the

probe back into the soil at a different point, avoiding the first hole made by the probe. Twist the probe two or three times
between the fingers, as before, and wait 60 seconds before taking the final reading.

In order to obtain an even more accurate result when measuring soil pH with your unit, the following procedure may be
adopted. Take the sample of soil to be tested from the ground and remove stones and organic debris. Prepare the
sample by crumbling the soil into small particles. Measure two cups of soil from the prepared sample. Fill a clean glass or
plastic container with two cups of distilled or de-ionized water and add the measured soil sample. Ensure the soil and
water is thoroughly mixed and compact the sample firmly. Drain off any excess water. Proceed to step 3 of “How to Use
Your Meter to Measure pH.

ADDING LIME TO INCREASE pH

Lime can be added at any time of year but it does need time to take effect – which is why the autumn, winter and early spring are the preferred times.
The two main types of lime are ground limestone and hydrated lime. Ground limestone is slower acting but more pleasant to handle. Hydrated lime may
take effect in two or three months but ground chalk or limestone may take up to six months. The amount of lime needed to raise a spade‘s depth of top
soil by 1 pH varies from 5.5 oz. of hydrated lime or 7.5 oz. ground limestone on sandy soil to 11 oz. of hydrated lime or 15 oz. ground limestone on heavy
clays or peaty soils per square yard. So do not expect pH correction to be too precise! Avoid adding lime at the same time as sulfate of ammonia,
superphosphate, basic slag or animal manures. Lime may be used in combination with sulfate of potash or muriate of potash. It is because of the natural
drop in pH that there is such an emphasis on adding lime. While lime stimulates the availability of most plant foods, you will see from the “pH and Plant
Nutrient” table that soils should not automatically be limed because large amounts of plant food become increasingly “locked up” over pH7.

BENEFITS OF LIMING

• Reduces acidity, increases pH.

• Binds the fine particles of clay into larger particles and so helps aerate and drain the soil.

• Helps to retain moisture and plant foods in sandy soils.

• Balances the addition of acidic fertilizers; nitrochalk is an example.

• The lime content of soil will sometimes affect flower and foliage color. Blue & red hydrangea flowers are the most common examples.

• Supplies the plant food calcium.

• Makes nitrogen available by stimulating the micro-organisms that help decompose organic matter.

• Increases the earthworm population.

• Protects against a few diseases, such as club root in brassicas (but causes scab in potatoes) and is disliked by organisms that help decompose organic
matter.

ADDING CHEMICALS AND ORGANICS TO REDUCE pH

The best way to reduce pH is to use the compost heap and farmyard manure to regularly introduce decaying humus. This not only reduces pH gradually
but helps hold plant foods and moisture. Peat, relatively inert and usually only about 4% nitrogen content, is another useful soil conditioner of an acid
nature.

Sulfate of ammonia and flowers of sulfur are chemical treatments and sulfate of ammonia also adds nitrogen. While the tiny bacteria and micro­organisms work unseen in the soil, breaking down fresh organic matter into plant food, they produce acids. But if this process eventually creates too low
a pH the organisms will work less efficiently, and lime is then needed as a balance and stimulant. It is sensible to progress gradually towards a reduced pH
and certainly not to expect to be able to be precise in exactly how much of a material will reduce pH by a given amount. Avoid adding animal manures or
sulfate of ammonia at the same time as lime or basic slag (a phosphate food).

HOW MUCH TO APPLY

How much to apply depends on the particle size of your soil. A sandy soil needs less lime for an equivalent pH change than a heavy clay but will not hold its
pH as long.

SOIL TYPES

Sandy Soils: A light, coarse soil comprised of crumbling and alluvial debris.
Loam Soils: A medium friable soil, consisting of a blend of coarse (sand) alluvium and fine (clay) particles mixed within fairly broad limits with a little lime
and humus.
Clay Soils: A heavy, clinging, impermeable soil, comprised of very fine particles with little lime and humus and tending to be waterlogged in winter and
very dry in summer.