LulzBot TAZ User Manual

LulzBot TAZ User Manual

Aleph Objects, Inc.

LulzBotTMTAZ User Manual

by Aleph Objects, Inc.

Copyrightc 2013 Aleph Objects, Inc.

Permission is granted to copy, distribute and/or modify this document under the terms
of the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported license (CC BY-SA 3.0).

Published by Aleph Objects, Inc., 123 SW 12th Street, Loveland, Colorado, 80537 USA.

For more information, call [phone] or go to www.LulzBot.com and
www.AlephObjects.com.

ISBN: 978-0-9893784-1-3 20130729

Contents

WARNINGS

Safety Information · · · · · · · · · ix

Read Me First! · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · x
Hazards and Warnings · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · x

1 Setup Your Printer · · · · · · · · · 13

2 3D Printer Software · · · · · · · · 27

2.1 Software Overview · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 28

2.2 Drivers · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 28

2.3 Slic3r · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 28

2.4 Printrun · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 30

2.5 CAD and 3D Modeling Software · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 35

3 Slic3r in Depth · · · · · · · · · · 37

3.1 Intro · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 38

3.2 Getting Slic3r · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 38

3.3 First Slice · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 40

3.4 Expert Mode · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 66

3.5 Configuration Organization · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 82

3.6 The Cutting Edge of Slicer · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 84

4 Loading Print Material · · · · · · · · 87

5 Your First 3D Print · · · · · · · · · 91

5.1 Set Temperature · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 92

5.2 Inserting Filament Into the Extruder · · · · · · · · · · · · 92

5.3 Home Printer · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 93

5.4 Z Print Height · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 95

5.5 Remove Part · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 96

6 Maintaining Your 3D Printer · · · · · · 97

iii

CONTENTS

6.1 Overview · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 98

6.2 Smooth Rods · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 98

6.3 PET Sheets · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 98

6.4 Hobbed Bolt · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 99

6.5 Software · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 99

6.6 Belts · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 99

6.7 Hot End · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 100

6.8 Electronics · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 100

7 Advanced Usage · · · · · · · · · · 101

7.1 Intro · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 102

7.2 Changing nozzles · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 102

7.3 ABS/Acetone Glue · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 103

8 Hardware and Software Source Code · · · · 105

9 3D Printer Support · · · · · · · · · 107

9.1 LulzBot · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 108

9.2 Community · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 108

10 Contact Information · · · · · · · · 109

10.1 Support · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 110

10.2 Sales · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 110

10.3 Websites · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 110

Index · · · · · · · · · · · · · 111

Glossary · · · · · · · · · · · · 115

iv

List of Figures

1.1 Locate the four Y axis bolts · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 14

1.2 Remove the four Y axis bolts · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 15

1.3 Locate the four Y axis mounts on the frame · · · · · · · · · · 16

1.4 Screw in and tighten the four Y axis bolts · · · · · · · · · · · 16

1.5 Connect the two connectors found at the rear of the Y axis · · 17

1.6 Connect the two connectors on the left of the print bed · · · · 18

1.7 Locate the two zip ties found in the bag with the manual · · · 18

1.8

Tightly wrap the zip ties around the bed wires and through the
strain relief slot · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 19

1.9 Power supply and USB receptacles · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 20

1.10 Power supply · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 21

1.11 12V DC Power supply plug and receptacle · · · · · · · · · · · 21

1.12 The power supply plug correctly plugged in · · · · · · · · · · · 22

1.13 Filament Guide · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 23

1.14 Filament Guide Setting · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 23

1.15 Axes movement directions · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 24

1.16 End stop locations · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 25

2.1 Slic3r application, STL to Gcode generator · · · · · · · · · · · 29

2.2 Printrun application for 3D printer control · · · · · · · · · · · 31

2.3 Printrun controls · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 32

2.4 Printrun viewer · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 34

3.1 Configuration Wizard: Welcome Screen · · · · · · · · · · · · · 41

3.2 Configuration Wizard: Firmware Type · · · · · · · · · · · · · 42

3.3 Configuration Wizard: Bed Size · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 43

3.4 Configuration Wizard: Nozzle Diameter · · · · · · · · · · · · · 44

3.5 Configuration Wizard: Filament Diameter · · · · · · · · · · · 45

3.6 Configuration Wizard: Extrusion Temperature · · · · · · · · · 46

3.7 Configuration Wizard: Bed Temperature · · · · · · · · · · · · 47

3.8 Configuration Wizard: End · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 48

3.9 Simple Mode: Print Settings. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 51

3.10 Creating a vase from a solid model. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 52

3.11 An example of support material. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 53

v

List of Figures

3.12 An example of brim. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 54

3.13 Simple Mode: Filament Settings. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 55

3.14 Simple Mode: Printer Settings. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 57

3.15 Shapesmith online CAD tool. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 61

3.16 Plater · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 62

3.17 Minimug model. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 63

3.18 STL file loaded. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 63

3.19 FreeCAD part repair. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 65

3.20 Expert mode speed options. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 67

3.21 Infill pattern settings. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 69

3.22 Infill pattern: Line (344.51mm / 5m:20s) · · · · · · · · · · · · 69

3.23 Infill pattern: Rectilinear (350.57mm / 5m:23s) · · · · · · · · 69

3.24 Infill pattern: Concentric (351.80mm / 5m:30s) · · · · · · · · · 70

3.25 Infill pattern: Honeycomb (362.73mm / 5m:39s) · · · · · · · · 70

3.26 Infill pattern: Hilbert Curve (332.82mm / 5m:28s) · · · · · · · 70

3.27 Infill pattern: Archimedean Chords (333.66mm / 5m:27s) · · · 70

3.28 Infill pattern: Octagram Spiral (318.63mm / 5m:15s) · · · · · 71

3.29

Infill pattern comparison in a complex object. Left to Right:
honeycomb, line · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 71

3.30

Infill patterns at varying densities. Left to Right:
20%,40%,60%,80%. Top to Bottom: Honeycomb, Concentric,
Line, Rectilinear, Hilbert Curve, Archimedean Chords,
Octagram Spiral · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 72

3.31 Infill advanced settings. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 73

3.32 Retraction settings. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 74

3.33 Skirt settings. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 76

3.34 Cooling strategy. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 77

3.35 Cooling advanced settings. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 79

3.36 Support structure options. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 80

3.37 Minimug model, tilted 45◦. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 81

3.38 Support infill pattern: Rectilinear · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 81

3.39 Support infill pattern: Rectilinear Grid · · · · · · · · · · · · · 81

3.40 Support infill pattern: Honeycomb · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 82

3.41 Example of pattern angle rotated 45◦. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 82

3.42 Saving a profile. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 84

3.43 Deleting a profile. · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 84

4.1 Filament spool mount parts · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 88

vi

List of Figures

4.2 Filament spool mount front · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 89

4.3 Filament spool mount back · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 89

4.4 Filament run through the guide · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 90

5.1 Extruder idler release · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 92

5.2 Extruder filament slot · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 93

5.3 Nozzle height · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 94

5.4 Z end stop trigger · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 94

5.5 First layer adhesion · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · 95

vii

WARNINGS

Safety Information

WARNING!

Read Me First!

READ THIS MANUAL COMPLETELY BEFORE UNPACKING AND
POWERING UP YOUR PRINTER.

Hazards and Warnings

The TAZ 3D printer has motorized and heated parts. When the printer is
in operation always be aware of possible hazards.

Electric Shock Hazard

Never open the electronics case when the printer is powered on. Before
removing the electronics case cover always power down the printer and
completely turn off and unplug the power supply and allow the power
supply to discharge for at least 1 minute.

Burn Hazard

Never touch the extruder nozzle or heater block without first turning off the
hot end and allowing it to completely cool down. The hot end can take up
to twenty minutes to completely cool. Also, never touch recently extruded
plastic. The plastic can stick to your skin and cause burns. Also beware
of the heated bed which can reach high temperatures capable of causing
burns.

Fire Hazard

Never place flammable materials or liquids on or near the printer when
powered or in operation. Liquid acetone and vapours are extremely
flammable.

Pinch Hazard

When the printer is in operation take care to never put your fingers in the

moving parts including the belts, pulleys, or gears. Also, tie back long hair
or clothing that can get caught in the moving parts of the printer.

x

HAZARDS AND WARNINGS

Static Charge

Make sure to ground yourself before touching the printer, especially the
electronics. Electrostatic charge can damage electronic components. To
ground yourself touch a grounded source.

Age Warning

For users under the age of 18, adult supervision is recommended. Beware
of choking hazards around small children.

xi

Setup Your Printer

Setup Your Printer

Locate the unpacking document and follow the steps to unpack your

printer before you move on to the Setup steps.

1.

Your printer has been pre-calibrated and tested; however, after
unpacking all of the components you will need to re-mount the Y axis
onto the frame and connect the bed and Y axis connectors. Please
follow the steps completely to make certain that the Y axis is re­mounted correctly and you will be on your way to your first print.

2.

Place the TAZ frame and Y axis assembly on a flat and level surface.
Bring your attention to the Y axis assembly and find the four Y axis
bolts. The four bolts, located on the Y axis aluminum frame bars,
have large plastic knobs that allow the bolts to be easily turned by
hand (Fig. 1.1, page 14). Turning counter clock-wise, remove each of
the four Y axis bolts and set aside (Fig. 1.2, page 15).

Figure 1.1: Locate the four Y axis bolts

14

LulzBotTMTAZ User Manual

Figure 1.2: Remove the four Y axis bolts

3.

On the TAZ frame locate the four Y axis mount brackets shown in Fig.

1.3 (pg. 16). With the print surface facing up and the stepper motor
end of the Y axis facing back, slide the Y axis assembly in between
the Y axis mount brackets. The four Y axis mount brackets will line
up with the Y axis bolt holes on the Y axis assembly. Thread the four

Y axis bolts through the brackets, into the Y axis assembly (Fig. 1.4,

page 16). Before completely tightening the Y axis bolts make sure
the Y axis aluminum bars are pushed down against the TAZ frame
lower bars. You can do this by slightly tilting the printer, on the side
edge, enough to lift the feet of the Y axis off of the table. The weight
of the Y axis will seat it against the TAZ frame. While the printer is
slightly tilted tighten the four Y axis bolts. The printer can be now
be set flat on the table.

15

Setup Your Printer

Figure 1.3: Locate the four Y axis mounts on the frame

Figure 1.4: Screw in and tighten the four Y axis bolts

16

LulzBotTMTAZ User Manual

4.

The final step of installing the Y axis is connecting the print surface
connectors and Y axis connectors. Pull the print bed completely to
the front of the printer to get access to the Y axis connectors. You

will find matching male and female 4 pin stepper motor connectors

and two pin end stop connectors. Connect the matching male and
female connectors (Fig. 1.5, page 17); make sure the connector lock
clicks to be sure that the connection is secure.

Figure 1.5: Connect the two connectors found at the rear of the Y axis

5.

Locate the two connectors to the left of the print bed. Connect the
matching female and male large two pin heat bed connectors and the
small two pin connectors (Fig. 1.6, page 18).

6.

Locate the two small black zip ties that are included in the documents
bag (Fig. 1.7, page 18). Wrap the two zip ties through the slot,
located on the left rear of the aluminum bed plate, and around the
print bed wires (Fig. 1.8, page 19). Tighten the zip ties snug so the

wire cannot move freely. Cut off the excess end of the zip ties with

the needle nose pliers included in the tool bag.

17

Setup Your Printer

Figure 1.6: Connect the two connectors on the left of the print bed

Figure 1.7: Locate the two zip ties found in the bag with the manual

18

LulzBotTMTAZ User Manual

Figure 1.8: Tightly wrap the zip ties around the bed wires and through the
strain relief slot

7.

Now that the Y axis is mounted you should set your printer on a
stable, flat, and level surface large enough for extra space around the
printer. Make sure your printer work space is clear of anything that
could obstruct the movement of the printer. Make sure there are no

flammable fabrics or liquids near the printer space. It is also best to

not put your printer near a drafty window or air conditioner vent.

8. Unwrap the power supply and USB cables.

MAKE SURE THE POWER SUPPLY IS COMPLETELY UN­PLUGGED BEFORE MOVING ON TO THE NEXT STEP.

9.

Locate the power supply and USB receptacles along the back of the

TAZ electronics enclosure (Fig. 1.9, page 20). Locate the power supply

and the included AC power cable (Fig. 1.10, page 21). Locate the
DC power cable plug on the power supply. Connect the DC locking
plug into the DC connector on the TAZ electronics enclosure (Fig.

1.11, page 21). The plug is keyed which may require rotating the plug
until the keys line up and the plug can be pushed in. Once you have

19

Setup Your Printer

pushed in the plug turn the locking sleeve clockwise until it is tight
against the electronics enclosure (Fig. 1.12, page 22).

Figure 1.9: Power supply and USB receptacles

20

LulzBotTMTAZ User Manual

Figure 1.10: Power supply

Figure 1.11: 12V DC Power supply plug and receptacle

21

Setup Your Printer

Figure 1.12: The power supply plug correctly plugged in

10.

Locate, on the right of the power supply, the red AC voltage switch.
Depending on your location you will need to change the AC voltage
switch to 115V or 230V. North America is generally 115V and the
majority of other regions are 230V. You can find general voltage by
country at wikipedia.org/wiki/Mains electricity by country.

11.

Plug in the USB cable, B plug (square plug) side, into the USB
receptacle on the printer electronics. Plug the other end of the USB
cable, A plug side, into your computer.

12.

Locate the filament guide with attached PTFE tube (Fig. 1.13, page

23). The filament guide attaches to the filament guide mount which
can be found on the top right side of the printer frame. The filament
guide easily pops on to the guide mount as shown in figure 1.14 (pg.

23).

22

LulzBotTMTAZ User Manual

Figure 1.13: Filament Guide

Figure 1.14: Filament Guide Setting

23

Setup Your Printer

13.

Your TAZ 3D printer is now setup and ready to start printing. Before
moving forward you should become familiar with the TAZ Cartesian
type system. The printer moves in three axes: X, Y, and Z (Fig. 1.15,
page 24). These three axes allow the tool head to move to any point
within the print area. Note the location of the mechanical end stops
which are small switches located at the home point of each axis (Fig.

1.16, page 25). Each end stop switch allows the printer to find the 0,
the origin, or starting point, of each axis. The mechanical end stops
should never be blocked during the initial homing function or during
a print.

Figure 1.15: Axes movement directions

24

LulzBotTMTAZ User Manual

Figure 1.16: End stop locations

25

3D Printer Software

3D Printer Software

2.1 Software Overview

Aleph Objects, Inc., the maker of the LulzBot TAZ completely supports

free/libre hardware and software. Along with the TAZ being a free/libre
hardware design, it has been tested to work with 100% free/libre software.

To operate your desktop 3D printer you will need to install a few software

packages onto your PC. You will need a 3D printer host, an

.STLto.gcode

generator, and optional CAD or 3D modeling software.

All of the following free/libre software is available for GNU/Linux,

Windows, and Apple OS X. However, we highly recommend using these

softwares on GNU/Linux.

The required software can be found in the Support/Downloads section

at

https://www.lulzbot.com/?q=support

. You will also find instructions
there for installing each program onto your PC. You can also find downloads
specific to the TAZ 3D printer on the TAZ product page.

2.2 Drivers

You will need to install device drivers in order for your Windows computer

to communicate with the TAZ 3D Printer. A Windows guide can be found at:

https://www.lulzbot.com/support/manually-installing-drivers-windows

.
If you are using your TAZ 3D Printer on a Linux/Apple OS X based
computer you will not need any drivers- support is already built into the
operating system.

Windows Driver Downloads:

http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/

software/current/drivers/windows/

2.3 Slic3r

Website: http://www.slic3r.org

The Slic3r software is the first tool in the chain of 3D printing software

(Fig. 2.1, page 29).

Slic3r uses commonly used

.STL

files to create

.gcode

files. Gcode files
contain instructions for the 3D printer on where, when, and how fast to
make movements. However, Gcode programming is not very suitable for
CAD and 3D design. This is where Slic3r and the

.STL

file comes into use.

The

.STL

file is a 3D model file that can be exported by all common CAD

28

2.3. SLIC3R

Figure 2.1: Slic3r application, STL to Gcode generator

and 3D modeling software. The Slic3r software then slices the

.STL

3D

model into layers and print paths to create a 3D printable .gcode file.

To launch Slic3r navigate to the

Slic3r

directory and launch the

slic3r.pl

file. On GNU/Linux operating systems you may need to set the

slic3r.pl

file as executable. On other operating systems it may be called

slic3r.exe.

Slic3r includes very simple settings that allow you to easily refine prints.

You can create multiple configurations for changing printer setups including

nozzle sizes and desired print resolution. For ease of use we have pre-defined
Slic3r profiles available in the Support/Downloads section and on the TAZ
product page at

www.LulzBot.com

. Download the configurations to your

Slic3r

directory. We highly recommend starting with our pre-defined Slic3r

profiles for your first couple prints.

Loading Configurations

To load configurations press the

Load Config...

button. In the file
browser that opens, locate the downloaded configuration files. Select
the configuration file that matches the nozzle size currently installed on

29

3D Printer Software

the printer (0.35mm nozzle is installed by default). Press

Open

and the
pre-defined configuration will load into Slic3r. You can also save custom
configurations for yourself by pressing the

Export Config...

button. A
file browser will open that allows you to define a name and save your custom
configuration.

Loading STL files

To load an

.STL

3D model file into Slic3r, activate the Plater tab and click

the

Add...

button. In the file browser navigate to the

.STL

you wish to

load and click

Open

. The silhouette of the model will appear in the Plater
diagram. To print more than one copy of the model at a time select the
model name from the list and click the

More

button. With each press of

the

More

button an additional copy of the model will be added to Plater.

To remove a copy of the model select the model name again and click

Less

.

To completely remove the model from Plater select the model name and

click Delete.

Export Gcode files

Once you have finished setting your part(s) in Plater you can generate the
Gcode by clicking

Export G-Code...

. In the file browser navigate to where

you would like to save the

.gcode

file and list a name to save the file as.

Click

Save

and Slic3r will begin generating the

.gcode

file. When Slicer is
finished you will receive a prompt. If you have created a plate with multiple
model designs you can also use the

Export STL...

function to save an

.STL file for quickly reproducing the same plate of models.

More on Slic3r

The above is a summarized explanation to quickly get you started slicing

models and printing. For more in depth information on Slic3r including
specific installation instructions see the chapter, Slic3r in Depth.

2.4 Printrun

Website: http://www.github.com/kliment/Printrun

30

2.4. PRINTRUN

The host software, Printrun, is used to start up and control your 3D

printer (Fig. 2.2, page 31). The host controls include: setting the extruder

Figure 2.2: Printrun application for 3D printer control

and print surface temperatures, manual control of each axis, and manual
extrusion. The host is also where you will push print files (

.gcode

) to the

3D printer for printing out model designs.

To launch Printrun, navigate to the

Printrun

directory and launch

the

pronterface.py

file. On GNU/Linux operating systems you may

need to set the

pronterface.py

file as executable. Depending on your

environment you may need to launch the program by using the full command:

python pronterface.py

. On other operating systems the file may be called

pronterface.exe.

Connecting the Printer

To start up the printer, first you will need to connect to the printer with

Printrun. Make sure you have connected the USB cable from your PC to the
printer before launching Printrun. If not, close Printrun, connect the USB
cable, and relaunch Printrun. In the top left

Port

pull down menu select the

correct port for the printer (generally

/dev/ttyACM0

). On other operating

systems the port may be named such as

COM1

or

tty.usbserial-USB-ID

.

If you only have one printer connected there will only be one port available

31

3D Printer Software

to select. Make sure the port baud rate is set to

115200

in the pull down
menu to the right of the port selection. You can refresh the USB ports, by
clicking the Port button.

Now, to connect to the printer click the

Connect

button. In the text

output window you will see multiple return lines. If you see

Printer is

now online

you have successfully connected to the printer. The printer
control buttons on the left will also darken and become click-able after
connecting. When you need to disconnect the printer simply press the
Disconnect button.

Printer Controls

All of the printer controls can be found on the left side of the Printrun

interface (Fig. 2.3, page 32). To set the hot end and print surface

Figure 2.3: Printrun controls

temperature first click the

Monitor Printer

check box on. This will enable
the printer temperature bars and graph. The hot end and print surface
controls are labeled

Heater

and

Bed

. Select the temperature setting by
using the pull down menu for pre-defined temperature settings. You can
also set custom temperature settings by typing into the temperature box.

32

2.4. PRINTRUN

To turn on the hot end and/or printer surface click the respective

Set

button. The

Set

button will highlight orange when the temperature is set

to on for that component. When the hot end or print surface is set to on

you will see the temperature bar and graph display the set temperature and

the current temperature. When both components have reached the correct
temperature, the printer is ready for printing. Clicking the

Off

button will

turn off that component and highlight the Off button blue.

Below the temperature controls are the manual extrusion controls. There

you can manually extrude plastic through the hot end and retract the plastic

filament from the hot end. The

Extrude

button will feed the amount of
plastic, set to the right in mm, through the hot end. The rate at which the
plastic is fed is set below the extrusion length (mm/min). The

Reverse

button will perform the opposite of

Extrude

, pulling the plastic filament

back out of the hot end.

The large pattern of buttons above the temperature controls are the
axes manual controls. These functions allows you to manually move each
of the three axes of the printer. The circular pattern of four quadrants
controls the X and Y axes. The top and bottom quadrants move the Y axis;
the top in the positive direction (forward) and the bottom in the negative
direction (back). The left and right quadrants move the X axis; the left in
the negative direction (left) and the right in the positive direction (right).

Each quadrant is split into four sections that control the length of
movement of 0.1mm, 1mm, 10mm, or 100mm. The innermost section moves
the axis 0.1mm with each section outwards a larger movement with the
outside section moving the axis 100mm.

The linear control bar to the right controls the Z axis. The Z axis is also
separated into multiple movement lengths; 0.1mm, 1mm, and 10mm. The
upper three buttons move the Z axis up and away from the printer surface;
the three lower buttons move the Z axis closer to the print surface.

The four triangular buttons around the circular pattern are the axes
home buttons. Each home button will move that axis in the negative
direction until the end stop is activated. There is a home button for the X,

Y, and Z axes. There is also a white home all button that homes all of the

axes at once.

The

Motors off

button will deactivate all motors allowing all of the

axes to be moved by hand.

Caution: when homing, the axis will continue to move in the negative
direction until the end stop switch is activated. If the printer is ever

33

3D Printer Software

transported make sure the end stop switches are clear before resuming
printing. If an axis has missed an end stop and is continuing to try to move
in the negative direction, immediately turn the power switch to the off
position. If a print file was running, after turning the power switch to off,
pause the print by clicking the

Pause

button. Clear whatever is blocking

the end stop and try homing again.

Loading Print Files

To load a

.gcode

file into Printrun click the

Load file

button. Navigate

to the

.gcode

file in the file browser and click

Open

. You will now see a 2D
images of the first layer of your model design in the Gcode viewer (Fig. 2.4,
page 34). Click the Gcode viewer window to see a more detailed version

Figure 2.4: Printrun viewer

of the sliced model. In the pop-up Gcode viewer you can zoom in using
the mouse scroll wheel and flip through layers with the up and down arrow
keys. To pan within the window left-click and drag to move around the

work plane. The lines shown in the Gcode viewer represent the path the

extrusion nozzle will follow to print the model.

34

2.5. CAD AND 3D MODELING SOFTWARE

For more information on using Printrun see the Printrun page in the

Support/Downloads section at

https://www.lulzbot.com/?q=support

.
Instructions for running a print can be found in the Starting the First
Print section in this manual.

2.5 CAD and 3D Modeling Software

Currently LulzBot is not distributing a CAD or 3D modeling software
package. However, there are multiple free/libre software packages available.
Other common non-free CAD and 3D modeling software are also capable of
exporting the required .STL files.

On some CAD and 3D modeling software you will need to select
millimeters as the output unit. If possible it is best to build your 3D
design in metric units rather than imperial units. Slic3r requires .STL files
sized in millimeters. If an .STL with inches as units is loaded into the Slic3r,
the model will be scaled much smaller than expected. The software listed
below outputs millimeters as the unit by default.

FreeCAD

Website: http://free-cad.sourceforge.net

FreeCAD is a great free/libre CAD application. Containing a full GUI
for building CAD models, FreeCAD is capable of creating simple to complex
designs. STL files can also easily be exported for use with 3D printing.
FreeCAD is available for GNU/Linux, Windows, and Mac. The latest
development version is recommended.

Blender

Website: http://blender.org

The most widely used Free/Libre 3D modeling software, Blender is well
documented with tutorials available on the Blender.org website. Numerous

video tutorials can be also found online.

Shapesmith

Website: http://shapesmith.net

35

3D Printer Software

Shapesmith is a web based 3D modeling software. This means there is
no required software to get started designing models. Shapesmith is also a
great choice for anyone just starting out in CAD/ 3D modeling.

OpenSCAD

Website: http://openscad.org

OpenSCAD is another free/libre CAD software; however, different than
FreeCAD, it is script based. Rather than using a GUI to generate CAD
designs, OpenSCAD CAD designs are created using script based renderings.
Users with programming experience would find this very useful. Also,
OpenSCAD uses a simple script language that is easy to learn for users

with little or no programming experience.

36

Slic3r in Depth

Slic3r in Depth

3.1 Intro

Overview

Slic3r is a tool which translates digital 3D models into instructions that are
understood by a 3D printer. It slices the model into horizontal layers and
generates suitable paths to fill them.

Slic3r is already bundled with the many of the most well-known host
software packages: Pronterface, Repetier-Host, ReplicatorG, and can be
used as a standalone program.

This manual will provide guidance on how to install, configure and utilise
Slic3r in order to produce excellent prints.

Goals & Philosophy

Slic3r is an original project started in 2011 by Alessandro Ranellucci (aka.
Sound), who used his considerable knowledge of the Perl language to create
a fast and easy to use application. Readability and maintainability of the
code are among the design goals.

The program is under constant refinement, from Alessandro and the
other contributors to the project, with new features and bug fixes being
released on a regular basis.

Donating

Slic3r started as a one-man job, developed solely by Alessandro in his
spare time, and as a freelance developer this has a direct cost for him. By
generously releasing Slic3r to the public as open source software, under the
GPL license, he has enabled many to benefit from his work.

The opportunity to say thank you via a donation exists. More details
can be found at: http://slic3r.org/donations.

3.2 Getting Slic3r

Slic3r is Free Software, and is licensed under the GNU Affero General Public
License, version 3.

38

3.2. GETTING SLIC3R

Downloading

Slic3r can be downloaded directly from: http://slic3r.org/download.

Pre-compiled packages are available for GNU/Linux, Mac OS X and

Windows. GNU/Linux and Windows users can choose between 32 and 64

bit versions to match their system.

Source

The source code is available via github:

https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r

(For more details see §3.6)

Manual

The latest version of this document, with LATEX source code is presently at:

http://devel.lulzbot.com/Slic3r/

Installing

GNU/Linux

Extract the archive to a folder of your choosing. Either:

•

Start Slic3r directly by running the Slic3r executable, found in the
bin directory, or

•

Install Slic3r by running the do-install executable, also found in the
bin folder.

The archive file may then be deleted.

Windows

Unzip the downloaded zip file to a folder of your choosing, there is no
installer script. The resulting folder contains two executables:

• slic3r.exe - starts the GUI version.

• slic3r-console.exe - can be used from the command line.

The zip file may then be deleted.

39

Slic3r in Depth

Mac OS X

Double-click the downloaded dmg file, an instance of Finder should open
together with an icon of the Slic3r program. Navigate to the Applications
directory and drag and drop the Slic3r icon into it. The dmg file may then
be deleted.

3.3 First Slice

LulzBot provides ready-made Slic3r profiles for immediate use to
get printing quickly. You can find the TAZ Slic3r profiles at

http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/software/current/slic3r/config/

.
Once you have become familiar with your TAZ printer and the software you
may want to make your own profiles with slight adjustments for particular
designs.

Configuration Wizard

Slic3r has two features to aid newcomers: the configuration wizard, and
simple mode.

Sometimes it is nice to have a helping hand when starting out with new
software. The configuration wizard asks a series of questions and creates a
configuration for Slic3r to start with.

40

3.3. FIRST SLICE

Figure 3.1: Configuration Wizard: Welcome Screen

41

Slic3r in Depth

1. Firmware Type

The gcode produced by Slic3r is tailored to particular types of firmware.
The first step prompts for the firmware that the printer uses. This should

have been specified when the printer was built or configured. The TAZ
printer uses the RepRap (Marlin/Sprinter) gcode type.

Figure 3.2: Configuration Wizard: Firmware Type

42

3.3. FIRST SLICE

2. Bed Size

This setting defines the maximum distance the extruder may travel along

the X and Y axis. If the dimensions are not readily available for the printer
then it can be easily measured.

Be sure to measure from the lower left corner where the extruder nozzle
rests when in the home position to the maximum distance the nozzle can
travel in each direction. Take into account that the X carriage may touch
the frame before the nozzle reaches it’s full distance, this will depend on
the printer make and model.

Also remember to check any firmware end-stop settings which may limit

X/Y movement.

Figure 3.3: Configuration Wizard: Bed Size

43

Slic3r in Depth

3. Nozzle Diameter

The diameter of the hot-end nozzle is usually clearly displayed either in the

description of the hot-end, or in the associated documentation, when the
hot-end is purchased. Common values are 0.5mm and 0.35mm.

If the nozzle was home-made, or came from a source without a diameter

given, then carefully measure the aperture as accurately as possible. One

way of determining nozzle size is to very slowly (1mm/s) extrude some

filament into free air and measure the thickness of the resulting extrusion1.

This has the benefit of taking die swell into account, and consequently may

be a useful thing to do even if the diameter is known.

Figure 3.4: Configuration Wizard: Nozzle Diameter

1

http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,113374,113953

44

3.3. FIRST SLICE

4. Filament Diameter

For Slic3r to produce accurate results it must know as accurately as possible
how much material is pushed through the extruder. Therefore it is vital to
give it as precise a value as possible for the filament diameter.

Although the filament used in FDM printers is sold as being either

3mm or 1.75mm this is only a general guide. The diameter can vary

between manufacturers and even between batches. Therefore it is highly
recommended to take multiple measurements from along a length of the
filament and use the average. For example, measurements of 2.89, 2.88, 2.90
and 2.91 would yield an average of 2.895, and so this would be used.

Figure 3.5: Configuration Wizard: Filament Diameter

45

Slic3r in Depth

5. Extrusion Temperature

The extrusion temperature will depend on the material, and most can

operate over a range of temperatures. The supplier should provide guidance
as to which temperatures are suitable. A very general rule of thumb is that
PLA lies between 160◦C and 230◦C, and ABS lies between 215◦C and 250◦C.
More exotic materials will have a different range.

This is one parameter which you will want to fine tune when you start
producing prints. The optimal temperature can vary even between colours of
the same material. Another factor which may affect the chosen temperature
is how fast the extrusion is, where generally faster extrusion runs hotter.

Note: One may choose to control the extruder temperature manually
from the printer controller. In this case the temperature can be set to zero.

Figure 3.6: Configuration Wizard: Extrusion Temperature

46

3.3. FIRST SLICE

6. Bed Temperature

If the printer has a heated bed then this parameter may be set. As with
the extruder temperature, the value will depend on the material used. A
rule of thumb is that PLA requires 60◦C and ABS requires 85◦C.

Note: One may choose to control the bed temperature manually from

the printer controller. In this case the temperature can be set to zero.

Figure 3.7: Configuration Wizard: Bed Temperature

47

Slic3r in Depth

At this stage the wizard is complete and the basic configuration is
defined.

Figure 3.8: Configuration Wizard: End

The Important First Layer

Before delving into producing the first print it is worthwhile taking a little
detour to talk about the importance of getting the first layer right. As
many have found through trial and error, if the first layer is not the best it
can be then it can lead to complete failure, parts detaching, and warping.

There are several techniques and recommendations one can heed in order

to minimise the chance of this happening.

Level bed.

Having a level bed is critical. If the distance between the
nozzle tip and the bed deviates by even a small amount it can result in
either the material not lying down on the bed (because the nozzle is too
close and scrapes the bed instead), or the material lying too high from the
bed and not adhering correctly.

Higher temperature.

The extruder hot-end and bed, if it is heated,
can be made hotter for the first layer, thus increasing the viscosity of the
material being printed. As a rule of thumb, an additonal 5◦is recommended.

48

3.3. FIRST SLICE

Lower speeds.

Slowing down the extruder for the first layer reduces the
forces applied to the molten material as it emerges, reducing the chances of
it being stretched too much and not adhering correctly. 30% or 50% of the
normal speed is recommended.

Correctly calibrated extrusion rates.

If too much material is laid
down then the nozzle may drag through it on the second pass, causing it to
lift off the bed (particularly if the material has cooled). Too little material
may result in the first layer coming loose later in the print, leading either
to detached objects or warping. For these reasons it is important to have a

well-calibrated extrusion rate.

First layer height.

A thicker layer height will provide more flow, and
consequently more heat, making the extrusion adhere to the bed more. It
also gives the benefit of giving more tolerance for the levelness of the bed.
It is recommended to raise the first layer height to match the diameter of
the nozzle, e.g. a first layer height of 0.35mm for a 0.35mm nozzle. Note:

The first layer height is set this way automatically in simple mode.

Wider extrusion width.

The more material touching the bed, the better
the object will adhere to it, and this can be achieved by increasing the
extrusion width of the first layer, either by a percentage or a fixed amount.

Any spaces between the extrusions are adjusted accordingly.

A value of approximately 200% is usually recommended, but note that
the value is calculated from the layer height and so the value should only
be set if the layer height is the highest possible. For example, if the layer
height is 0.1mm, and the extrusion width is set to 200%, then the actual
extruded width will only be 0.2mm, which is smaller than the nozzle. This

would cause poor flow and lead to a failed print. It is therefore highly

recommended to combine the high first layer height technique recommended
above with this one. Setting the first layer height to 0.35mm and the first
extrusion width to 200% would result in a nice fat extrusion 0.35mm wide.

Bed material.

Many options exist for the material to use for the bed,

and preparing the right surface can vastly improve first layer adhesion.

PLA is more forgiving and works well on PET, Kapton, or blue painters
tape.

49

Slic3r in Depth

ABS usually needs more cajoling and, whilst it can print well on PET
and Kapton, there are reports that people have success by applying hairspray
to the bed before printing. Others have reported that an ABS slurry (made
from dissolving some ABS in Acetone) thinly applied can also help keep
the print attached.

No cooling.

Directly related with the above, it makes no sense to increase
the temperature of the first layer and still have a fan or other cooling
mechanism at work. Keeping the fan turned off for the first few layers is
generally recommended. Of course, some models may need direct cooling
due to their size, but this would be an exception.

Simple Mode

Slic3r has two modes of operation, Simple and Expert. These may be chosen
from the Preferences window (found under the File menu).

As is expected, the simple mode offers a reduced set of options, enough
for the beginner to get started with. The expert options give more control
over how Slic3r produces the gcode and will be looked at later.

Print Settings

The

Print Settings

tab provides the opportunity to change settings related
to the actual print. Whereas the other tabs are changed rarely, the settings
on this tab will be modified regularly, possibly for each model printed.

General. Layer height

is the thickness of each layer, and it is the step
along the vertical axis taken before extruding a new layer atop the previous
one. There are several factors that influence how high each layer should be:

• Desired resolution

- Lower layer height should result in prints with
less noticeable ribs or bands, as each layer is smaller. Aesthetics plays
a role here, but also the type of model, for example, a mechanical part

50

3.3. FIRST SLICE

Figure 3.9: Simple Mode: Print Settings.

may not need such a high resolution finish, whereas a presentation
piece may do so.

• Print speed

- Shorter layers will result in smoother prints but each
print will take longer, simply because the extruder must trace the
pattern more times. A later goal will be to strike a balance between
layer height, the speed of the printer, and the quality of the resulting
print.

Perimeters

defines the minimum number of vertical shells (i.e. walls) a

print will have. Unless the model requires single width walls it is generally

51

Slic3r in Depth

recommended to have a minimum of two perimeters as this gives some
insurance that if a section of the perimeter is not printed correctly then the
second perimeter will help cover it.

The upper and lowermost layers that sandwich the model are filled with

a

Solid layers

pattern. For the bottom layers the important factor to
consider is how the surface will look should there be a mistake whilst laying
down the first layer, and for this reason it is recommended to have at least
two bottom layers.

A similar consideration is required for the top layers. Because the
intermediate layers are likely to be filled with a pattern set less than 100%
then the covering layers will have to bridge this pattern and this can require
more than one pass to cover completely.

Another tip to consider: Setting the top solid layer to zero, and setting
the infill also to zero, will result in a hollow receptacle, ideal for turning
models into vases2for example. Here manipulating the settings within Slic3r
can be used to generate different kinds of prints, and not only be used to
control surface accuracy.

Figure 3.10: Creating a vase from a solid model.

Infill.

Fill density is defined on a scale of between 0 and 1, where 1 is
100% and 0.4 would be 40%. For the majority of cases it makes no sense to
100% fill the model with plastic, this would be a waste of material and take

a long time. Instead, most models can be filled with less material which is
then sandwiched between layers filled at 100% (see Solid layers above).

2

http://slic3r.org/blog/tip-printing-vases

52

3.3. FIRST SLICE

A density value of 0.4 is enough to give almost all models good mechanical
strength. A value of 0.2 is usually the minimum required to support flat
ceilings.

Slic3r offers several fill patterns which will be discussed in more depth in
section 3.4 - Infill Choices. Choosing a pattern will depend on the kind of
model, the desired structural strength, print speed, and personal taste. The
more exotic fill methods are usually too slow and unnecessarily complex
for most use cases, and so most of the time the infill pattern is either

rectilinear,line

, or

honeycomb

. Honeycomb gives the most strength

but is slower than both rectilinear or line.

Support material.

Printing a model from the bottom up, as with FDM,
means that any significant overhangs will be printed in the air, and most
likely droop or not print correctly. Choosing support material will add
additional structures around the model which will build up to then support
the overhanging part. The

Pattern spacing

option determines how dense

the support material is printed.

Figure 3.11: An example of support material.

Tip: It is sometimes worth considering altering the orientation of the

model in order to possibly reduce overhangs.

Raft layers will add additional layers underneath the model and stems

from the early days of 3D printing. It can help with prints without a heated

53

Slic3r in Depth

bed, or where the bed is not very flat, but it is usually not required and is
not recommended. The raft also requires post-processing to remove it.

Speed. In simple mode there are only three speed settings to consider:

• Perimeters

- The outline of the model may benefit from being printed

slightly slower so that the outside skin of the print has fewer blemishes.

• Infill

- As the infill is hidden this can be extruded a little faster.
Take care though not to go too fast as higher speeds results in thinner
extrusions, and this may affect how the extrusions bond.

• Travel

- The jump between the end of one extrusion and the next
should usually be performed as quickly as the printer will allow in
order to minimise any mess caused by material oozing from the nozzle.

Brim. Brim

is used to add more perimeters to the first layer, as a base
flange, in order to provide more surface area for the print to stick to the
bed with in order to reduce warping (see§3.3). The brim is then cut away
once the print is finished and removed from the bed.

Figure 3.12: An example of brim.

Sequential printing.

When printing several objects at once it can be
useful to print each one separately as this will minimise oozing and strings
running between the prints. Care has to be taken that the nozzle and
extruder does not interfere with already printed parts. This is the reason
for the Extruder clearance parameters:

54

3.3. FIRST SLICE

• Radius

- The clearance that should be given around the extruder.

Take care if the extruder is not mounted centrally - take the largest

safe value.

• Height

- The vertical distance between the nozzle tip and the X axis

rods, or lowest part which may interfere with a finished print.

Filament Settings

The

Filament Settings

will normally be used infrequently, for example

on receipt of a new roll of filament.

Figure 3.13: Simple Mode: Filament Settings.

Filament.

The

Diameter

setting will already have been filled from the

value given during the wizard (see p.45), but can be updated here.

The

Extrusion multiplier

setting allows the fine tuning of the
extrusion flow rate, and is is given as a factor, e.g. 1 means 100%, 1.5 would
mean 150%. Whilst the value should ideally be set in the firmware it can
be useful to test slight changes to the rate by altering this value. It varies

55

Slic3r in Depth

the amount of plastic proportionally and should be changed in very small
steps (e.g. +/- 0.05) as the effects are very visible.

Temperature.

These values are also filled from the wizard, but here the

opportunity exists to set the temperature for the first layer (see p.48).

Printer Settings

The

Printer Settings

will be updated the least, unless Slic3r is going to

be used for many printers, for example, in a 3D printer farm.

56

3.3. FIRST SLICE

Figure 3.14: Simple Mode: Printer Settings.

Size and coordinates.

The

Bed size

setting is taken from the wizard

(see p.43) and is only used for previewing the model in the plater.

The

Print center

is the point around which the print will be centered.

A

Bed size

of 200mmx200mm and a

Print center

of 100mmx100mm

would sit the print in the middle. Should it be desired to print away from

the center, because of a scratch in the glass perhaps, then this option should
be used.

57

Slic3r in Depth

Z offset

can be used to compensate for an incorrectly calibrated Z
end-stop. If the nozzle stops slightly too far from the bed, then adding a
negative value will offset all layers by that amount. The correct solution
however is to fix the end-stop itself.

The optimal Z endstop position is where the nozzle tip barely touches
the surface of the bed when homed. A sheet of paper makes a good gauge
for this very small distance. It is not recommended to use this setting to
try and improve layer adhesion, by ”squashing” the bottom layer into the
bed, instead look at the suggestions in section 3.3.

Firmware.

As selected in the wizard (see p.42),

G-code flavour

defines

the dialect of G-code generated.

Extruder. Nozzle diameter was defined in the wizard (see p.44).

Retraction.

Unless the material being extruded has a very high viscosity
it may ooze between extrusions due to gravity. This can be remedied by
actively retracting the filament between extrusions. Setting the

Length

parameter to a positive value will cause the filament to be reversed by that
many millimeters before travel. The retraction will then be compensated for
by the same amount after the travel move, before starting the new extrusion
path.

A value of between 1 and 2mm is usually recommended. Bowden
extruders may need up to 4 or 5mm due to the hysteresis introduced by the
tube.

Setting the

Lift Z

parameter to a positive value will raise the entire
extruder on the Z axis by that many millimeters during each travel. This
can be useful to ensure the nozzle will not catch on any already laid filament,
however it is usually not necessary and will slow the print speed. A value
of 0.1mm is usually sufficient.

Start, End and Layer Chance G-codes.

Custom G-code commands
can be run before a print starts, after a print finishes, and between each
layer change.

58

3.3. FIRST SLICE

Placeholders can be inserted in the G-code commands3. For example

[next extruder] would return the index of the next extruder.

The RepRap wiki is a good resource to learn about the variety of G-codes

available: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code.

Note: Be sure to check that a given G-code is valid for your firmware.
Some common G-codes to use before the print starts are:

• G28 - Homes all the axes.

Some common G-codes to use after the print ends are:

• M104 S0 - Sets the extruder temperature to zero.

• M140 S0 - Sets the heated bed temperature to zero.

• G28 X0 - Home the X axis.

• M84 - Disables the motors.

Working with Models

Yet another step lies between now and the first print - a model has to found

and then sliced.

Model Formats

Slic3r accepts the following file types.

•

STereoLithography (STL) files can come from a wide variety of sources
and are now a de facto standard in 3D printing. The files simply
describe the surface geometry of a 3D object without any additional
information (such as colour or material), and it is this simplicity that
has probably made the format ubiquitous.

•

Wavefront OBJ files are an open format originally used in an animation
application from Wavefront Technologies, but has since been adopted
by the wider 3D modelling community. It is similar to the STL format.

3

https://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r/wiki/FAQ#what-placeholders-can-i-use-in-

custom-g-code

59

Slic3r in Depth

•

Additive Manufacturing File Format (AMF) was developed in response
to the limited nature of the STL format. In addition to describing the
geometry of the 3D model it can also describe colours and materials, as
well as more complex attributes, such as gradient mixes and multiple
object arrangements (constellations). Whilst the format is deemed a
standard it has yet to be widely adopted in the 3D maker community.

Finding Models

The 3D model files may come from an online repository, such as Thingiverse

4

or GrabCAD5or be created from a CAD program, such as FreeCAD6,
OpenSCAD7, or an online CAD tool such as Shapesmith8.

You may wish to view the files before slicing and there are many free
applications available: Meshlab9or FreeCAD which can both be used to
import, view, and repair STL models.

4

http://www.thingiverse.com

5

http://grabcad.com

6

http://sourceforge.net/projects/free-cad

7

http://www.openscad.org

8

http://shapesmith.net

9

http://www.meshlab.org

60

3.3. FIRST SLICE

Figure 3.15: Shapesmith online CAD tool.

Working with Plater

Slic3r has a tool, called Plater, which allows one or more models to be
loaded and arranged before being sliced.

61

Slic3r in Depth

Figure 3.16: Plater

Once you have acquired a model, drag it onto the Plater window (or
use the Add button below the file list) to load it into Slic3r. In the figure
below, the traditional RepRap Minimug10is loaded, and is viewed from
above. The ring around the model is a skirt - a single perimeter, several
millimeters away from the model, which is extruded first. This is useful in
making sure the plastic is flowing smoothly from the nozzle when the model
is starting to be printed.

10

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18357

62

3.3. FIRST SLICE

Figure 3.17: Minimug model.

Figure 3.18: STL file loaded.

The model can be repositioned by dragging the representation of it on
the left of the screen around the bed. Note that the dimensions of the bed
should match your printer, as given during the initial configuration above.

On the right-hand side is the list of currently loaded files. The buttons
along the top of the file list allow you to arrange the models.

• More/Less - Adjust how many copies should be printed.

63

Slic3r in Depth

• 45◦/Rotate

- Rotate the selected model around the Z axis, either in

45◦increments clockwise or counter-clockwise, or by a given amount.

• Scale - Increase or decrease the size of the printed model.

• Split

- Divides a model which consists of more than one part into it’s

constituent parts, allowing each one to be arranged individually.

The buttons along the bottom of the file list allow you to add, remove,

auto-arrange, or export the models.

• Add

- Opens a file dialog to add a model to the plater, as an alternative

to dropping a file directly.

• Delete/Delete All - Remove one or all models from the plater.

• Autoarrange

- Attempt to arrange the models to give the optimal

layout.

• Export G-code

- Starts slicing the model and produces a G-Code

file.

• Export STL - Save the current set of models as a single STL file.

Cleaning STLs

If the 3D mesh described in the model contains holes, or edges are misaligned

(known as being non-manifold), then Slic3r may have problems working on

it. Slic3r will attempt to fix any problems it can, but some problems are
out of it’s reach. If the application complains that a model cannot be sliced
correctly then there are several options available, and the ones described
here are all free at the time of writing.

FreeCAD

Freecad is a comprehensive, and free, CAD program which
comes with a mesh module, in which repairs to degenerate models can be
made. the following steps outline how a problem model file can be analysed
and repaired.

64

3.3. FIRST SLICE

Figure 3.19: FreeCAD part repair.

•

Start FreeCAD and from the start splash page choose

Working with

Meshes.

•

Load the model by dragging and dropping it onto the workspace or

via the

File

menu. A small message in the bottom left corner will

indicate if the model appears to have problems.

•

From the menu choose

Meshes->Analyze->Evaluate & Repair

mesh to bring up the repair options dialog.

•

From the options dialog choose the loaded mesh, then perform each
analysis be clicking the

Analyze

button by each problem type, or

select

Repetitive Repair

at the bottom to perform all checks. If

a corresponding problem is detected the

Repair

button becomes

enabled.

• For each desired repair hit the Repair button.

•

It is important to review the effect the repair script has made to the
model. It may be the case that the script damages the file, rather
than repair, for example by removing important triangles.

•

Export the repaired model via the

Export

menu option or context

menu.

65

Slic3r in Depth

First Print

At this stage Slic3r has been configured and a model has been acquired,

sliced and made ready for print. Now would be the time to fire up the
printer and try it out.

A variety of host software is available to send the G-code to the

printer. Amongst the open-source solutions are: Printrun11, Repetier

12

and Repsnapper13.

The following sections will cover the options available in expert mode,
and look at advanced printing techniques, including special cases and
troubleshooting.

3.4 Expert Mode

Speed

Once the printer is reliably producing good quality prints it may be desirable
to increase the speed. Doing this provides several benefits, the most obvious
of which is that the results are produced quicker, but also faster print
times can be utilised in producing more layers, i.e. lower layer height, thus
improving perceived print quality. An additional benefit is that a faster
travel movement, between extrusions, can reduce the effects of oozing.

The best approach is to increment the various speed parameters in small
steps and observe the effect each change has on print quality. Travel speed
is a safe starting point, and it is not unrealistic to attain speeds of up to

250mm/s (if your printer can handle it). Adjusting the speed of perimeters,

infill is available in simple mode, and the general rule is to have the perimeter
go a little slower than the infill in order to reduce possible blemishes on the
surface (infill can be faster because slight gaps will not matter as much).

Expert mode offers more parameters to fine tune printer speeds. Differ­entiation between external, small and other perimeters, infill locations, and
bridges and gaps are available, as well as the ability to slow down for the
first layer.

11

https://github.com/kliment/Printrun

12

http://www.repetier.com/

13

https://github.com/timschmidt/repsnapper

66

3.4. EXPERT MODE

Figure 3.20: Expert mode speed options.

Where indicated a value can be given in percentage. This is in relation
to the preceding value, e.g. 50% solid infill would be half of the value defined
for infill.

A few general guidelines for each option:

• Perimeters

- In expert mode this parameter can be increased slightly

as the

External perimeters

option can be used to ensure blemish

free external faces.

• Small perimeters

- Meant for holes, islands and fine details, a slower

speed here is recommended.

• External perimeters

- A slightly slower value may ensure cleaner

surfaces.

• Infill

- As fast as you can without compromising the integrity of the

fill structure. Faster extrusions can break and result in weak spots.

• Solid infill

- The bottom of the model, and any additional solid

layers is usually slightly slower than infill but faster than perimeters.

67

Slic3r in Depth

• Top solid infill

- Allow time for the extrusion to cleanly cover the
previous top layers and result in a tidy top surface. the last few layers
should have bridged the infill structure nicely, preparing the way for
a neat finish.

• Support material

- Generally support structures are quick and dirty,
and so long as the base is adequately supported they can be built as
quickly as they can.

• Bridges

- Having the extrusion span distances depends on the material
and cooling. Going too slow will result in sagging, too fast will result
in broken strands. Experimentation is the key here, but generally
bridging runs slower than perimeters.

• Gap fill

- Filling in small gaps results in the extruder quickly
oscillating and the resulting shaking and resonance could have a
detrimental affect on the printer. A smaller value here can guard
against this. A setting of zero disables gap filling completely.

• Travel

- As fast as your printer will allow in order to minimise ooze.

• First layer speed

- As mentioned in section 3.3, the first layer is
important to lay down correctly, and a slower pace helps enormously.
Setting a value of 50%, or even less, can really help.

Acceleration control is an advanced setting allowing acceleration settings

for perimeters, infill, bridge, as well as a default setting, to be made. Deciding
which values to set depends on the capabilities of the machine. Any settings
within the firmware may be a good starting point.

Take into account any restrictions enforced by the firmware as many

have settings for the maximum safe speed of each axis.

Infill Patterns and Density

There are several considerations when choosing an infill pattern: object

strength, time and material, personal preference. It can be inferred that a

more complex pattern will require more moves, and hence take more time

and material.

68

3.4. EXPERT MODE

Figure 3.21: Infill pattern settings.

Slic3r offers several infill patterns, four regular, and three more exotic
flavours. The numbers given in brackets below each figure are a rough
estimate of material used and time taken for a simple 20mm cube model14.
Note that this is only indicative, as model complexity and other factors will
affect time and material.

Figure 3.22: Infill pattern: Line (344.51mm / 5m:20s)

Figure 3.23: Infill pattern: Rectilinear (350.57mm / 5m:23s)

14

Taken from http://gcode.ws

69

Slic3r in Depth

Figure 3.24: Infill pattern: Concentric (351.80mm / 5m:30s)

Figure 3.25: Infill pattern: Honeycomb (362.73mm / 5m:39s)

Figure 3.26: Infill pattern: Hilbert Curve (332.82mm / 5m:28s)

Figure 3.27: Infill pattern: Archimedean Chords (333.66mm / 5m:27s)

70

3.4. EXPERT MODE

Figure 3.28: Infill pattern: Octagram Spiral (318.63mm / 5m:15s)

Certain model types are more suited for a particular pattern, for example
organic versus mechanical types. Figure 3.29 shows how a honeycomb fill
may suit this mechanical part better because each hexagon bonds with the
same underlying pattern each layer, forming a strong vertical structure.

Figure 3.29: Infill pattern comparison in a complex object. Left to Right:
honeycomb, line

Most models require only a low density infill, as providing more than,
say, 50% will produce a very tightly packed model which uses more material
than required. For this reason a common range of patterns is between

10% and 30%, however the requirements of the model will determine which

density is best. Figure 3.30 shows how the patterns change as the density
increases.

71

Slic3r in Depth

Figure 3.30: Infill patterns at varying densities. Left to Right:

20%,40%,60%,80%. Top to Bottom: Honeycomb, Concentric, Line, Recti-

linear, Hilbert Curve, Archimedean Chords, Octagram Spiral

72

3.4. EXPERT MODE

Infill Optimization

Slic3r contains several advanced infill settings which can help produce better
extrusions.

Figure 3.31: Infill advanced settings.

• Infill every n layers

- Will produce sparse vertical infill by
skipping a set number of layers. This can be used to speed up print
times where the missing infill is acceptable.

• Only infill where needed

- Slic3r will analyse the model and
choose where infill is required in order to support internal ceilings and
overhangs. Useful for reducing time and materials.

• Solid infill every n layers

- Forces a solid fill pattern on the

specified layers. Zero will disable this option.

• Fill angle

- By default the infill pattern runs at 45◦to the model to
provide the best adhesion to wall structures. Infill extrusions that run
adjacent to perimeters are liable to de-laminate under stress. Some
models may benefit from rotating the fill angle to ensure the optimal
direction of the extrusion.

• Solid infill threshold area

- Small areas within the model are

usually best off being filled completely to provide structural integrity.

This will however take more time and material, and can result in parts

being unnecessarily solid. Adjust this option to balance these needs.

73

Slic3r in Depth

• Only retract when crossing perimeters

- Retracting, to prevent
ooze, is unnecessary if the extruder remains within the boundaries of
the model. Care should be taken if the print material oozes excessively,
as not retracting may result in enough material loss to affect the
quality of the subsequent extrusion. However, most modern printers
and materials rarely suffer from such extreme ooze problems.

• Infill before perimeters

- Reverses the order in which the layer
is printed. Usually the perimeter is laid down initially, followed by
the infill, and this is usually the preferable as the perimeter acts as a
wall containing the infill.

Fighting Ooze

Unless the material being extruded has a very high viscosity it will ooze
from the nozzle in between extrusions. There are several settings in Slic3r
to which can help to remedy this.

The retraction settings, found in the

Printer

tab, tell the printer to pull
back the filament between extrusion moves. This can alleviate the pressure
in the nozzle, thus reducing ooze. After the subsequent travel move the
retraction is reversed to prepare the extruder for the next extrusion.

Figure 3.32: Retraction settings.

• Length

- The number of millimeters to retract. Note that the

measurement is taken from the raw filament entering the extruder.

A value of between 1 and 2mm is usually recommended. Bowden

74

3.4. EXPERT MODE

extruders may need up to 4 or 5mm due to the hysteresis introduced
by the tube.

• Lift Z

- Raises the entire extruder on the Z axis by that many

millimeters during each travel. This can be useful to ensure the nozzle

will not catch on any already laid filament, however it is usually not

necessary and will slow the print speed. A value of 0.1mm is usually
sufficient.

• Speed

- The speed at which the extruder motor will pull back the
filament. The value should be set to as quick as the extruder can
handle without skipping steps, and it is worth experimenting with
this value to find the quickest retraction possible.

• Extra length on restart

- Adds an extra length of filament after
the retraction is compensated after the travel move. This setting
is rarely used, however should the print show signs of not having
enough material after travel moves then it may be useful to add a
small amount of additional material.

• Minimum travel after retraction

- Triggering a retraction after

very short moves is usually unnecessary as the amount of ooze is usually

insignificant and it slows down the print times. Set the number of
millimeters minimum distance the nozzle must move before considering
a retraction. If the printer handles ooze well this can be increased to
5 or 6mm.

• Retract on layer change

- Movement along the Z axis must also
be considered when dealing with oozing, otherwise blobs may occur.
It is recommended to leave this setting on.

Additionally there are several settings in the

Print

tab which can help

control oozing.

• Only retract when crossing perimeters

(Infill) - Tells Slic3r to
only retract if the nozzle will cross the threshold of the current island
being extruded. Slight ooze within the walls of a part are not seen
and can usually be accepted.

75

Slic3r in Depth

• Avoid crossing perimeters

(Layers and perimeters - Advanced)

- Will force the nozzle to follow perimeters as much as possible to
minimise the number of times it must cross them when moving around,
and between, islands. This has a negative impact on both G-code
generation and print times.

• Randomize starting points

(Layers and perimeters - Vertical shells)

- As the extruder moves up to the start of the next layer any ooze can
result in blobs. If the same start point is used for every layer then a
seam can form the length of the object. This setting will move the
start point to a difference location for each layer.

Skirt

The

Skirt

setting adds an extrusion a short distance away from the perimiter
of the object. This can ensure that the material is flowing smoothly from
the extruder before it starts on the model proper.

Figure 3.33: Skirt settings.

• Loops

- How many circuits should be completed before starting on

the model. One loop is usually sufficient.

• Distance from object

- The millimeters between the object and the

skirt. The default of 6mm is usually sufficient.

• Skirt height

- The number of layers to lay down a skirt for. For
ensuring the material is flowing smoothly, one layer is sufficient,
however the skirt function can also be used to build walls around the
object in case it should be protected from drafts.

76

3.4. EXPERT MODE

• Minimum extrusion length

- Dictates a minimum number of mil­limeters that the skirt should be, should the loop around the object
not be enough.

Cooling

Temperature plays a key part in determining print quality. Too hot and the

material deforms, too cool and layer adhesion may be problematic. Applying
cooling will allow the freshly deposited material to solidify enough to provide
a good base for the next layer, helping with overhangs, small details and
bridges.

There are two main techniques for cooling: adding a fan and slowing
down the print speed. Slic3r may choose to use both techniques, using a
fan first, and then slowing down the print if the layer time is too fast.

Figure 3.34: Cooling strategy.

Figure 3.34 shows the strategy adopted by Slic3r. Reading from right
to left, when the minimum fan threshold (#2) is reached the fan is turned

77

Slic3r in Depth

on. This increases in intensity as the layer time decreases. The print
speed remains constant until the estimated print time drops below a certain
threshold (#1), this is when the print speed is reduced until it reaches it’s
minimum value.

Fans

Most electronics and firmware allow the addition of a fan via a spare
connector. These can then be instructed with G-code, from Slic3r, to turn
on or off as the model requires, and to rotate at different speeds.

Care should be taken with the positioning of the fan so that it does not
cool any heated bed more than necessary. It should also not cool the heater
block of the hot-end so as not to force it to do more work and waste energy.

The air movement should aim for the nozzle tip, flowing over the freshly

extruded material.

A duct may help in guiding the flow correctly, and there are several
designs available online, for a wide variety of printers.

Slowing Down

Slic3r can tell the printer to slow down if the estimated layer time is above
a certain threshold.

Care must be taken as the intended effect could be mitigated by the
nozzle not moving far enough away from the fresh extrusion, a problem

with small, detailed layers. For this reason it is usually recommended to

use a fan where possible.

Configuring

In simple mode Slic3r will attempt to choose the optimal settings for both
fans and speed. Expert mode gives more granular options.

78

3.4. EXPERT MODE

Figure 3.35: Cooling advanced settings.

• Fan speed

- Determines the minimum and maximum speeds - useful

for fans that run too fast by default.

• Bridges fan speed

- As the material stretches over wide gaps, it
makes sense to try and cool it as much as possible, therefore a full fan
speed is recommended.

• Disable fan for first x layers

- Section 3.3 detailed how im­portant the first layer is, and so it makes sense not to apply the fan
until sure the print is securely attached to the bed. Keeping the fan
turned off for the first two or three layers is a good idea.

• Keep fan always on

- Overrides any other choices and has the fan
run continuously, at least at the minimum speed setting. This can be
useful when printing with PLA, but is not recommended for ABS.

• Enable fan if print time is below t seconds

- Triggers the

fan if the layer will be completed within the given number of seconds.

• Slow down if layer print time is below t seconds

- Slows
down the print if the layer will be completed within the given number
of seconds.

• Min print speed

- A lower limit on how slowly a layer can be printed.

79

Slic3r in Depth

Support Material

Generally, most 3D models will print with overhanging parts by up to a
certain degree. The angle is determined by several factors, most notably

layer height and extrusion width, and is usually around 45◦. For models
with larger overhangs a support structure may have to be printed below it.
This incurs the use of more material, longer print times, and post printing

clean-up.

Figure 3.36: Support structure options.

The first thing to do is activate the support material option. Providing

a value of zero to the

Overhang threshold

parameter tells Slic3r to detect
places to provide support automatically, otherwise the degrees given will be
used. Support generation is a relatively complex topic, and there are several
aspects which determine the optimal support, it is strongly recommended to
set the threshold to zero and allow Slic3r to determine the support required.

Small models, and those with small footprints, can sometimes break or

detach from the bed. Therefore the

Enforce support

option will cause
support structures to be printed for the given number of layers, regardless
of the angle threshold value.

To demonstrate the infill patterns the minimug model was tilted by 45

◦

along the x axis, as shown in figure 3.37.

80

3.4. EXPERT MODE

Figure 3.37: Minimug model, tilted 45◦.

As with infill, there are several patterns available for the support

structure.

Figure 3.38: Support infill pattern: Rectilinear

Figure 3.39: Support infill pattern: Rectilinear Grid

81

Slic3r in Depth

Figure 3.40: Support infill pattern: Honeycomb

Pattern Spacing

determines the distance between support lines, and
is akin to infill density apart from being defined only in mm. If changing
this attribute take into account the width of the support extrusion and the
amount of support material that will adhere to the object.

Care should be taken to choose a support pattern which matches the
model, where the support material attaches perpendicularly to the wall
of the object, rather than in parallel, so it will be easy to remove. If the
support structure does run along the length of a wall then the

Pattern

Angle option allows the direction of the support lines to be rotated.

Figure 3.41: Example of pattern angle rotated 45◦.

3.5 Configuration Organization

There are two ways in which to organize the configuration settings: exporting

and importing the configuration settings, and profiles. The former is
available in both simple and expert mode, whereas profiles is only available
in expert mode.

Exporting and Importing Configuration

The current set of configuration options can be simply exported via the

Export Config

File menu option. This saves all the values into a text file

82

3.5. CONFIGURATION ORGANIZATION

with a

.ini

extension. Previously saved files can be loaded with the

Load

Config menu option.

This gives a rudimentary means to store different configuration settings
for different needs. For example a set with slightly faster print speeds, or a
different infill pattern. However this way of organizing things will quickly
become frustrating, as each minor change to a parameter may have to be
duplicated across many configurations. For this reason, profiles are a more
suitable way of managing multiple configurations.

This method also allows configuration to be transferred between ma­chines, or stored remotely.

Profiles

After a few prints it will become apparent that it is worth having a set of

configuration options to choose from, and that some parameters change
at different rates as others. In expert mode, profiles can be created for
Print, Filament and Printer settings, with the expectation that the printer
settings change least often, filament rarely, and the print settings could be
changed for each model. These different profiles can be mixed and matched
as desired, and can be selected either in their respective tabs, or directly
from the plater.

Creating Profiles

Open the desired tab and change the settings as necessary. Once satisfied,
click the save icon to the left above the setting titles, and give a suitable
name when prompted.

83

Slic3r in Depth

Figure 3.42: Saving a profile.

Profiles can be deleted by choosing the profile to delete and clicking the

red delete button next to the save button.

Figure 3.43: Deleting a profile.

3.6 The Cutting Edge of Slicer

Building from Source

Follow these steps to build from source.

$ git clone git://github.com/alexrj/Slic3r

84

3.6. THE CUTTING EDGE OF SLICER

$ cd Slic3r

$ sudo perl Build.PL

$ sudo cpan Wx

85

Loading Print Material

Loading Print Material

Before you start printing you will need to load a reel of filamant on to
the reel holder. If mounted correctly the reel holder will keep the filament
reel rotating smoothly. The reel holder is meant to work with 1kg and 5lb
plastic filament reels but can be modified the work with other reel and spool
types.

1.

Locate the filament reel spindle and unthread and remove the wing
nut and washer (fig. 4.1, page 88). Set the filament reel on to the
rear reel mount with the filament feeding counter clockwise. Insert
the reel spindle into the plastic filament reel.

Figure 4.1: Filament spool mount parts

2.

Thread the reel spindle throught the reel into the rear reel mount on
the lower right hand side of the TAZ 3D Printer (fig. 4.2, page 89).
Turn the spindle handle clockwise until it snugs up against the reel
and then turn it back one quarter of a turn. This will allow the reel
to easily turn but not turn too freely that it would allow the filament
to unravel.

3.

Slide the washer onto the end of the spindle on the back of the reel
mount. Thread the wing nut onto the spindle end and loosely up

88

LulzBotTMTAZ User Manual

Figure 4.2: Filament spool mount front

Figure 4.3: Filament spool mount back

89

Loading Print Material

against the nut on the back of the reel mount (fig. 4.3, page 89). While
holding the reel spindle handle in place tighten the wing nut against
the nut on the back of the reel mount. This will keep the tension you
set at the handle in place. If you need to adjust the tension, loosen
the wingnut, adjust the handle tension, and retighten the wingnut.

4.

Feed the end of the filament through the filament feed tube. The
Filament should now be threaded through the PTFE sleeve and exiting
near the extruder (fig. 4.4, page 90).

Figure 4.4: Filament run through the guide

5.

When changing filament, slide the opposite end of the filament through
one of the holes in hub of the filament reel. This will keep the filament
from unwinding from the reel (fig. 4.2, page 89).

90

Your First 3D Print

Your First 3D Print

5.1 Set Temperature

Make sure to first read the instructions for using the Printrun software.
Connect to the printer as described in the Printrun software section (page

30). Set the hot end and print surface for ABS or PLA plastic and turn both
on. The temperature settings for ABS should be set at

230◦C

for the hot

end and

85◦C

for print surface; for PLA they should be set at

180◦C-185◦C

for the hot end and

60◦C

for print surface. If you have not already, make
sure the axes end stops are aligned to be triggered when each axis homes.
Click the Motors Off button.

5.2 Inserting Filament Into the Extruder

Once the hot end is heated to the correct temperature you will now need to
load the plastic filament into the extruder. Raise both the idler clip and the

2 screws adding tension to release the hinged idler. It can be loosened if

necessary. (Fig. 5.1). Gently pull both the idler screws and the plastic clip

Figure 5.1: Extruder idler release

upwards to release the idler. The idler can be rotated downwards allowing

92

5.3. HOME PRINTER

access to the hobbed bolt and filament feed hole(Fig. 5.2, page 93). Feed the
end of the plastic filament into the filament feed hole (Fig. 5.2). Now you

Figure 5.2: Extruder filament slot

can push the filament through the extruder by slowly pushing the filament
down into the hot end.

Once the filament extrudes a small amount out of the nozzle raise the
idler and slide the two idler bolts and plate back into place. Tighten the
two idler bolts if you previously loosened them or if you need additional
clearance. Now use the

Extrude

button in Printrun to test that the extruder
is working properly. You may need to extrude 30-60mm to fully prime the
hot end.

5.3 Home Printer

Use the home buttons to home the X axis and then the Y axis. Next home
the Z axis. When the Z axis is at home the nozzle tip should be sitting right
against the glass (Fig. 5.3, page 94). The image to the right, in figure 5.3,
is the correct nozzle height. The nozzle should not be pushing down on the
print surface. To lower or raise the Z home height adjust the Z end stop

93

Your First 3D Print

Figure 5.3: Nozzle height

Figure 5.4: Z end stop trigger

94

5.4. Z PRINT HEIGHT

trigger. The red end stop trigger is on the far left of the printer mounted on
the X-axis motor mount. (Fig. 5.4, page 94). The Z home position can be
raised by turning the Z end stop trigger clockwise and lowered by turning
counter-clockwise. Once you have homed the axes and the hot end and bed
have reached the correct temperature it is time to print!

5.4 Z Print Height

Load the

bedcalib.gco

file. This file can be found at:

http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/objects/calibration/bedcalib.gco

The .gcode pattern should appear in the Printrun G-Code viewer. Press

the

Print

button to begin the print. When the print starts make sure the

first layer is not printing too close or too far from the print bed. Note Figure

5.5, page 95, as an example of a good first layer adhesion. From left to right:

Figure 5.5: First layer adhesion

very low, low, perfect, high, very high. If the first layer is too high or low
you can pause the print by pressing the

Pause

button. Adjust the Z end
stop trigger. After making adjustments you can home the axes and press
Restart to restart the print.

95

Your First 3D Print

5.5 Remove Part

After the part is finished printing, the heated bed will automatically cool

down to

0◦C

. Once the bed cools you can you pop the finished part off of
the printed surface. To remove the printed part, use the clam knife included
in your printer kit. Leather gloves are suggested to protect your hands from
the clam knife blade. It is also safe practice to not place your hand behind
the direction you are pushing the clam knife. Using the side of the clam
knife blade pry up one side of the printed part. If your part is large you
may need to pry at multiple points to pop the part off of the print surface.

When removing parts take caution to not damage the PET film. If the film

is cut or ripped it will peel from the glass and need to be replaced. Make
sure to reset the heated bed to the correct temperature and allow it to heat
up to the needed temperature before starting the next print.

96

Maintaining Your 3D Printer

Maintaining Your 3D Printer

6.1 Overview

There is little maintenance needed in keeping your TAZ 3D printer running.

Depending on your rate of use you will want to perform a quick check of

your printer every 2-4 weeks. The following maintenance guide lines will

keep your printer printing quality parts.

6.2 Smooth Rods

Wipe the smooth steel rods with a clean rag or paper towel. The linear

bushings leave a solid lubricant that builds up over time. If you begin
hearing squeaking noises while the printer is printing, this is likely a sign
that the smooth rods need to be cleaned. NOTE: never apply any lubricant
or cleaning agent to the smooth rods; the bushings are self lubricating.

6.3 PET Sheets

After repeated use, the PET sheet print surface will begin to wear.

Replacement PET sheets are available on

LulzBot.com

. To replace the
PET print surface it is best to remove the glass and heater assembly from
the bed mount. Disconnect the two connectors from the left of the print
bed. Locate the four bed finger clamps, one for each corner of the glass.

Turn each finger 90 degrees and then lift up and out the glass and heater

assembly. Place the assembly on a flat clean surface. Take caution to never
push down hard on the glass as this can cause the glass bed to crack.

Peel off the worn PET sheet from the glass print surface. If there is
any glue or plastic residue left on the glass surface, clean it with acetone
or an alcohol based glass cleaner. Peel a corner of the clear plastic away
from the green PET sheet and apply the corner of the PET to the corner of
the glass. Align the PET sheet onto the glass. Using a paper towel begin
slowly smoothing/applying the PET onto the glass while pulling back the
clear sheet from underneath the PET. You can also spray glass cleaner
onto the paper towel or the top side of the PET for a smoother application.

After applying the PET sheet to the glass any bubbles can be pushed out

or smoothed down using a credit card or stiff and dull piece of plastic.

Once the new PET sheet is in on, place the glass and heater assembly
back into the bed mount. With the glass assembly back in place, turn the

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6.4. HOBBED BOLT

bed finger clamps back onto the corners of the glass sheet to lock it in place.
Reconnect the two connectors to the left of the print bed.

6.4 Hobbed Bolt

The plastic filament is pulled through the extruder by a hobbed bolt. After

repeated use, the teeth of the hobbed bolt can become filled with plastic.
Using the brush or pick from the printer kit, clean out the hobbed bolt
teeth. If an extruder jam ever occurs, remove the plastic filament from the
extruder and clean out the hobbed bolt.

6.5 Software

Every quarter LulzBot will release a new stable version of the software. It
is best to update the software every time a new version is released. The
software is as important in printing quality parts as the hardware. Each
quarterly software update can bring advances in print quality. The files
are available at

http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/

. You can also find

updated software versions in the Support/Downloads section of LulzBot.com.

6.6 Belts

Over long periods or after extensive relocating of the printer you may need
to re-tighten the belts on the TAZ 3D printer. For the X axis, using the

2.5mm hex driver, loosen one of the belt clamps. The belts clamps are
located on the X axis carriage. To loosen the belt clamp, loosen the M3
screws on each side of the clamp. Using the needle nose pliers, pull the belt
tight. While holding the belt tight, tighten down both M3 screws. The Y
axis belt can be tightened in the same steps as the X axis with the belt
clamps found on the bottom of the Y axis plate. Make sure not to over
tighten the belts as this can cause unneeded stress on the printer.

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Maintaining Your 3D Printer

6.7 Hot End

The hot end should be kept clean of extruded plastic by removing melted

plastic strands with the tweezers. If melted plastic builds up on the hot end
nozzle it can be cleaned with a paper towel soaked with acetone. Make sure
the hot end is completely cool before attempting to clean the nozzle with
acetone.

6.8 Electronics

The electronics case holding the RAMBo board may need to have dust

blown out occasionally. Power down the printer and use the provided 2.5MM
driver to remove the 4 M3 screws holding the lid to the enclosure. The fan

is mounted to the lid and connected to the RAMBo board. Be careful with
the fan cable during removal. Once removed use short bursts of compressed

air to blow out any dust or debris. Plug in the lid fan paying attention to
polarity and reattach the lid.

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