Designed and manufactured in Australia by The Loudspeaker Kit
www.theloudspeakerkit.com
Email: sales@theloudspeakerkit.com
Assembly manualC6SKit
You will need:
• Phillips head screwdriver
• Woodworking glue
• Damp cloth
• Good quality masking tape
• Ratchet tie down strap (optional)
• Brick or other weight (optional)
Preparation
Lay the contents of the box out and check you have everything you need to complete the kit
(see parts list on back page). Find a suitable work surface and make sure it won’t be ruined if
you spill some glue. If covering the work surface, avoid using newspaper as newsprint may rub
off onto your kit. Baking paper is a good choice.
Easier assembly with mitres
LSK kits now employ mitre construction, which offers greater ease of assembly with much less
sanding. Butt joints are eliminated, avoiding visible hairline cracks that often appear after
painting. Mitre construction puts the join right on the edge where it is less visible. Most
constructors avoid using mitres due to the difficulty in getting the angles correct. Our
manufacturing process provides a level of accuracy that is very difficult to achieve in a home
workshop.
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Assembly manual C6SKit
Masking tape
We recommend avoiding cheap masking tape, which tends to break when applied under
tension. Lay out the rear panel and apply masking tape as shown.
Flip over the panel to expose the mitres. Carefully position sides, top and bottom panels. Press
the panels firmly along each join so that the masking tape on the other side adheres to the
MDF. Now rotate up each of the four panels as shown below and press the masking tape firmly
into the join.
Tip: Overhang a small strip of masking tape on each of the four panels. These strips, which
are shown on the next page, will make it easy to lift t he panel s.
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Assembly manualC6SKit
Apply a glue bead to all four joins between the rear and adjacent panels. This first bead of glue
should be applied to the bottom of the mitre. Then apply a second bead in the middle of the
mitre. This bead should be thicker than the first, as you can see below.
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Assembly manualC6SKit
Confirm that the glue adequately covers the entire surface of the joins by folding up each pair
of panels to form a join. Check the glue covers the entire surface of the join. Add more glue
where necessary. Fold up the first three panels as shown above. Wipe excess glue then firmly
press the panels together as you hold them in place with masking tape. Initially, one strip of
tape across the join will hold them in position.
Glue up the three trenches for the brace and press into position so that the larger cutout for the
tweeter magnet faces up. Then glue up the mitres and fold up the bottom panel.
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Assembly manualC6SKit
Tweeter magnet cutout
In the photo above and below you can see the brace with the tweeter magnet cutout facing the
baffle, which is yet to be inserted. Note in the photo below that the brace is oriented to place
the cutout towards the top of the enclosure.
After the top panel has been glued in place, wipe the joins. Then hold in position first with a
strip of masking tape to each joint. Now add a second strip across the join before taping along
the edges as shown below.
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Assembly manualC6SKit
Apply one thick glue bead to the mitres on the front baffle. Alternatively, you may prefer tro use
a zig zag pattern. Confirm the amount of glue by pressing into position. The entire join should
be covered in glue – apply more glue where necessary. Now press the baffle firmly into
place. Wipe excess glue and secure with masking tape.
Secure panels firmly with masking tape after wiping all joins with a damp cloth. Use firm
pressure when applying the tape. The tape holds the panels together as the glue sets and
should cover all joints. The tape should cover all edges.
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Assembly manualC6SKit
Clamping
Due to the brace that is used, we recommend at lea st two F clamps which are large enough to
clamp across the height (greater than 220mm). Six o r more F clamps in total are
recommended, as shown above.
Strapping
The use of two ratchet straps avoids the necessity of purchasing larger and more expensive F
clamps. Two straps as shown work well. Be sure to protect all four corners with cardboard
strips where each strap bends around a corner.
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Assembly manual C6SKit
Drying time
Typical wood glues can achieve moderate strength i n as li ttle as 30 minutes. If you are using
PVA glue then a good indicator that it has set is the t ransparency. PVA becomes transparent
once set. Ideally it’s best to leave the enclosure clamped over night before moving on to
assembly or finishing.
Grille assembly
This kit uses a clever neo magnet attachment syst em that avoids the use of traditional grille
clips. Flat packs contain neo magnets which have been concealed in the front baffle and grille.
Sequence tip
Final assembly should be done after you have applied your chosen finish. Otherwise, drivers
and terminals will get damaged and the internal lining will be covered in MDF dust.
Insert the crossover board
Insert the crossover board into the enclosure thro ugh the woofer hole and then position so that
the four holes in the crossover board align with the four pilot holes in the internal rear surface
of the enclosure.
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Assembly manualC6SKit
Note: The cable with the white strip
Installing the crossov er bo ard
There are three sets of cables:
• Input terminals: located near the larger inductor on the end of the board.
• Tweeter output: easily identified by the white cable (HI+ HI -)
• Woofer output: black cable next to the tweeter output s (L OW+ LOW-)
The crossover is fixed in place with 4 short button head self t apping screws. It’s best to screw
them in place with a screwdriver by hand. Orient so the input loom is near the terminal cutout.
Note: Although two sets of woofer outputs are shown (LOW1 & LOW2), i t does not matter
which woofer is connected to which of these two outputs. They are both the same.
How to identify positive and negative cables
All negative cables have a stripe. The white tweet er cable has a black stripe. The black woofer
and input cables have a white stripe.
To ensure positive and negative speaker outputs are not reversed, the spade connectors have
different sizes to prevent mistakes. However, extra care is required with the input cable, since
the terminals for this are both of the same size.
Sequence tip: Normally this step would follow finishing the speaker.
Otherwise sanding will get MDF dust over the crossover.
goes to the negative terminal
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Assembly manualC6SKit
As shown above, driver cutouts provide access to f i x t he passive crossover board in place.
Using the shorter screws, fix the board in place with a Phillips head screw driver. Avoid over
tightening. Ensure the board is oriented so the input s with the shortest cable pair are near the
terminal cut out.
Installing terminals
Find the shortest pair of cables on the crossover boa rd and feed them through the rear
terminal cutout. Orient the box with the rear facing upwards. P ush spades onto the terminal
lugs, ensuring the negative cable with the strips is connected onto the negative terminal. The
polarity of the terminal lugs is shown on the back of th e terminal with a large + and – as seen
on the previous page.
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Assembly manualC6SKit
C6S section diagram
Acoustic lining
The acoustic lining provided with the kit covers all internal cabinet walls. Each of the smaller
pieces (A) cover the side walls. The larger pieces (B) are folded in to a U shape to cover top,
bottom and rear walls, when the speaker is horizontally oriented as shown on the cover photo.
The diagram above shows the acoustic lining layout. T he wire loom from input terminal to
crossover runs beneath the larger pieces (B). Likewise, the cable to the woofer on the opposite
side of the brace also runs direct. The other two outpu ts for tweeter and woofer run through a
hole, which is dimensioned above. Cut an X wit h a sharp blade and pull the wire looms through
the hole prior to installing drivers.
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Assembly manualC6SKit
To insert the lining, roll it up and insert through one of the woofer cutouts. No adhesive is
necessary to keep the lining in place.
Installing drivers
We recommend using a Phillips head screwdriver, as some powered drivers are more likely to
cause damage if the head slips off the screw head. Impact d rivers should be avoided. If using
a powered driver, it’s best to use one which has a clutch, so t hat once the screws are
adequately tightened, the driver will not over-tighten. Choose the lowest setting on the clutch
and then increase as needed for the right amount of force. T hi s avoids stripping the MDF pre
drilled holes or damage to the screw heads. If using a sc rewdriver, your left hand can hold the
shaft to prevent the head slipping off and damaging the drivers.
Connectors
The connectors are designed to prevent mixing u p positive and negative terminals. Avoid
excessive force, which can damage terminals. Lower the tweeter into its recess, aligning the
terminals with the cutout slots. Then secure in pla ce with the provided screws.
Tip: The spades on the crossover cables have a very tight fit and damage to t he driver
terminals is likely if too much force is used. Use a small flat head s cre wdriver, as shown below,
to open out the spade until the spades can be pushed on without excessive force.
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Assembly manualC6SKit
Tweeter
The tweeter must be installed first as the woofer f l anges overlap.
Find the white wire loom for the tweeter and push the connectors onto the driver tabs.
Caution: tweeter terminals are fragile – observ e i nstruc tions on the previous page about
how to safely connect the cable without causing damage
Insert the provided screws into position and tighten with a Phillips head screwdriver as shown
below.
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Assembly manualC6SKit
Woofers
Find the white wire loom for each woofer and push the co nnectors onto the driver tabs.
Caution: Observe instructions on the previous page about how to safely connect the
cable without causing damage.
Insert the provided screws into position and tighten with a Phillips head screwdriver as shown
below.
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Assembly manualC6SKit
Now press both ports into position. No glue is nece ssary a s the cutouts are precisely machined
for a tight fit.
Grille assembly
Masking
On the backside of the grille, you will notice a cut line inset from the edges. This cut line
defines the area where the cloth will be glued to the frame. The area inside this line needs to
be masked, so the spray adhesive is applied only to the strip around the edge. This allows you
to use spray contact adhesive, which provides flat and even coverage in addition to a fast
application. To protect from overspray, cover your work surface.
Adhesive
Spray contact adhesive is the simplest and quickest to use and it goes on evenly. Be sure to
carefully read the instructions on the can as each one is slightly different. Shake the can for at
least one minute or longer if specified on the can. Spray contact adhesive onto the small strip
(approx 8mm wide) between the cut line and edge. Hold the can at a distance indicated on the
can and move fairly quickly, applying two or three passes until you get good coverage.
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Assembly manualC6SKit
When you’ve finished spraying, turn the can upside down and spray briefly until you notice the
amount of spray reduces. Usually after about one second, the paint stops but the solvent
continues. This cleans out the nozzle and avoids blocking next time you want to continue using
it. Check the nozzle to ensure that it looks clear. If you see a ny glue there, wipe with a clean
cloth with mineral turpentine to clean.
Glue is only required on the back surface as shown here – no glue is required to the sides or
the front.
You can start applying the grille cloth right away but we recommend waiting 2 minutes. Peel off
the mask with care. A small flat head screwdriver is helpful here to prevent the frame from
lifting up or flipping over as you remove the masking tape. Hold the frame down with the
screwdriver in one hand, gently pulling back the tape with the other. Then lay the frame over
the grille cloth as shown below.
Now press the cloth onto the glue on the back of the frame. S tart with one side as shown
below but avoid the corners, which should be pressed on l ast. It’s critical that the corners are
done as the final step to avoid wrinkles bunching up.
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Assembly manualC6SKit
Press the cloth onto the opposite edge. Above you can see the wrinkles across the grille which
indicate sufficient tension has been applied. Again, stop short of the corners.
Now press the grille cloth to the frame on the third side. T hen finally, press the cloth to the
remaining side of the frame. In this step, all wrinkles that could be seen from the front should
have been stretched out.
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Assembly manualC6SKit
Wrinkle free c or ne rs
The biggest challenge in assembling a grille is the corners. If not done correctly, these will
bunch up. With a little care, you can avoid this probl em and get a professional looking grille.
Gather the fabric at the corners with both hands, as shown above. Pull the cloth at a 45 degree
angle to each edge, stretching the fabric to eliminate as many wrinkles as possible. You can
see in the photo above that there are some potential wrinkles here, which we can remove in
the next step.
Keeping the tension on the cloth, transfer the fabric to one hand, so that your other hand is
free. Press out any wrinkles with your finger as shown below.
If there are some wrinkles you can’t press out this way, the adhe sive provides some work time
during which you can lift up the cloth and press it down again. When lifting up the cloth from
the frame, stretch the cloth more tightly then before. Then press it down again. Avoid lifting any
more of the cloth than necessary.
You may have several wrinkles around each corner. Work through each one until you have
pressed out all wrinkles.
Now at this point, you should have removed all wri nkles between the edge of the frame and the
cut line.
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Assembly manualC6SKit
Trim the cloth
Now you can use your thumbnail to find the cut line. P ressing your nail into the trench, score all
the way around. This helps to confirm that you’ve effectively avoided wrinkles. Then with a
sharp blade, slowly and carefully cut away the grille cloth, using the trench as a guide.
Tips for a better cut:
•Choose a knife with snap off blades like the one belo w – Stanley knifes are usually too
blunt for the job
• Start with a new blade – snap off the previously used part of the blade
• Cut with multiple passes – avoid the temptation to t ry t o cut al l the way through in one
pass
• Cut slowly and carefully, ensuring that the blade stays on track
• Cut with a shallow angle as shown below – this avoids any tearing away at the fabric
This step now completes the build.
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Assembly manual C6SKit
Tweeter
1” SB Acoustics SB26ST-C0005
Woofer
6” SB Acoustics woofer SB16PFC25-08
Frequency Response
50 Hz - 20 kHz
Impedance (nominal)
16 ohm
Sensitivity (2.83V)
87 dB
Power handling (AES)
80W
Power handling (program)
160W
Recommended amplifier
50 - 200W
Dimensions (mm)
220 mm high x 677mm wide x 300mm deep
Weight
13 kg
Parts List:
• 2 x 6” Woofers (SB16PFC25-08)
• 1 x 1” Tweeters (SB26ST-C0005)
• 1 x Crossover Network
• 1 x Round input Terminal
• 7 x Panels CNC machined 18mm MDF panels
• 1 x CNC machined 12mm MDF grille frame
• 1 x Grille cloth (320mm W x 780mm L)
• 16 x Self tapping Screws (18mm length)
• 4 x Self tapping Screws (12mm length)
• 2 x 70mm Tuning Ports
• 4 xPieces of Acoustic Lining (2 x 180mm W x 260mm L, 2 x 290W x 670mm L)
SPECIFICATIONS:
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