Lightfoot Greenway Technical Manual

RECEIVING YOUR CYCLE

RECEIVING YOUR CYCLE

RECEIVING YOUR CYCLERECEIVING YOUR CYCLE

Your vehicle has been assembled and tuned. The front wheel, seat and handlebars may have been
disassembled for more compact shipment. There are a few items to reassemble, bolts to be tightened and
adjustments to be made. Your front wheel and other accessories may be in the cargo box or cargo pod on
your trike. Your control cables have been pre-stretched; however it is normal for the control cables to
stretch during use (a lot at first) and your shifters may need to be re-tuned after several miles of use.

If you use the Lightfoot Technical Manual to assemble and adjust your cycle, you will have learned in a few
hours the basics of what you need to know to keep it running efficiently and safely for a lifetime. This
chapter is designed to get you through reassembly so you can ride. The Lightfoot Tech manual is available
online at http://www.lightfootcycles.com/tech_man.php.

Lightfoot vehicles are all designed to be accessible to any qualified bicycle mechanic. As you put miles and
wear on the cycle, any bike shop should be able to troubleshoot and repair any mysterious behavior of
components or damage. Proper assembly, maintenance and adjustments will make your cycle safer and
more efficient to ride, and will avoid the potential frustration of trying to learn to ride on an improperly
assembled cycle. If in doubt as to your own ability to properly assemble this vehicle or some component of
it, please use a qualified bicycle mechanic.

it, please use a qualified bicycle mechanic.

it, please use a qualified bicycle mechanic. it, please use a qualified bicycle mechanic.

If damage has occurred during shipping, notify the shipping company imm

If damage has occurred during shipping, notify the shipping company immediately. Then, if anything appears

If damage has occurred during shipping, notify the shipping company immIf damage has occurred during shipping, notify the shipping company imm
to be missing or damaged on a factory

to be missing or damaged on a factory----direct shipment, please call or e

to be missing or damaged on a factoryto be missing or damaged on a factory
document the damage.

document the damage.

document the damage.document the damage.

For future reference: All Lightfoot cycles have a serial number stamped on the frame. On bicycles, the serial
number is stamped on the left rear dropout. On trikes, it is stamped near the top of the upper separation
plate between the front and rear frame. The serial number may be difficult to read under the
powdercoating, but it is there.

TO

TOOLS NEEDED

OLS NEEDED

TOTO

OLS NEEDEDOLS NEEDED
To adjust an assembled vehicle, you may need only a couple of tools. Bike shops will have all of these
tools. Also, you can buy these tools by the individual piece, or as part of a "home bicycle mechanic" set.
Certain vehicles or options may necessitate other tools. We recommend getting a portable bicyclist tool kit
(you will have most of the tools from the list above) for carrying with your vehicle as well as a home­mechanic set for more extensive repairs.

1. Pliers to pull staples and cut wire ties.

2. Knife or scissors to cut tape.

3. Reversible hand held drill with a Phillips head driver bit for removing fork stabilizer.

4. Metric Allen wrench set. Specifically: an 8mm (crank arms), 6mm (shorty stem), 5mm (adjustable
stem and accessories), 4mm (seat and braces) and a 2.5 mm (Grip shifters). A 3mm wrench has
been supplied with your mirror. A Philips head screw driver is needed for some of the fender bolts.

5. 15mm pedal or open end box wrench for pedals on Bikes.

6. Grease for coating threads on pedals and freewheels, lubricating unsealed bearings, lubricating the
steerer tube. Phil Wood waterproof grease is one good choice. White Lightning is a good coating
for chains and cables.

7. Internal hub systems may require a wrench or small vise grip pliers, as well as a medium size flat
screwdriver.

8. A tire pump may be needed.

UNPACKING

UNPACKING A B

UNPACKING UNPACKING

If in doubt as to your own ability to properly assemble this vehicle or some component of

If in doubt as to your own ability to properly assemble this vehicle or some component of If in doubt as to your own ability to properly assemble this vehicle or some component of

ediately. Then, if anything appears

ediately. Then, if anything appears ediately. Then, if anything appears

A BIKE IN A CARTON

IKE IN A CARTON::::

A BA B

IKE IN A CARTONIKE IN A CARTON

direct shipment, please call or e----mail us.

direct shipment, please call or edirect shipment, please call or e

mail us. If at all possible photo

mail us. mail us.

If at all possible photo

If at all possible photo If at all possible photo

Technical Manual 1-1

1. Lift the front end of the cycle and install the fork. The head set pieces are on the stem in the order
they go on the bike: bearings go round side into the cups on the head tube.

2. Install the stem and handlebars. Slide the stem on above the headset, place the steering stem cap
on and tighten down tight enough so there is no slop in the headset but not so much that the
steering is too tight or that when you turn the handlebars it feels ”crunchy”.

3. Remove frame from box and place it in a bike stand if you have one or on a carpet. Remove
dropout protectors and unwrap the frame.

4. Install the rear derailleur: position the derailleur over 10mm hole on rear dropout, Rotate it
clockwise so that the spring tension screw will clear the stop on the dropout as you tighten the
derailleur in place with a 5mm hex wrench. Allow tension screw to settle against stop before
tightening.

5. Install rear wheel: Insert the skewer into the wheel with the lever on the side opposite the brake
rotor (right side). Slide the wheel axle between the chains and allow the upper chain to rest on the
smallest sprocket. Position between dropouts and work into place as gently as possible so as not to
damage the rotor or brake pads. Make sure the wheel is pushed into the dropouts solidly and
tighten.

6. Install front wheel: install skewer into hub with tightening lever on the side opposite the brake rotor
(right side of wheel). Position between dropouts and work into place as gently as possible so as not
to damage the rotor or brake pads. Make sure the wheel is pushed into the dropouts solidly and
tighten.

7. Install pedals: There is either an L or an R on each pedal. The right pedal is reverse threaded.

8. Install the seat. Adjust to fit. Your leg should be just less than fully extended when the pedal is in the
most forward part of its stroke. Do not over tighten the clamp holding the seat to the frame, this
will deform the clamp.

9. Sit on the cycle and adjust the handlebars to fit you. Align the handlebars, stem and fork. Tighten all
bolts.

10. Unpack all optional components and be sure that there are none tucked away in packing materials.

11. Refer to the Lightfoot Technical Manual for further installation and maintenance instructions.

UNPACKING A

UNPACKING A TRIKE

UNPACKING A UNPACKING A

TRIKE IN

TRIKETRIKE

IN A

IN IN

A CARTON

CARTON::::

A A

CARTONCARTON

1. Remove staples, wire ties and strapping from the outside of the carton. Tip the carton and lay it
down on the side with the shipping label. This is the bottom of the trike. Remove the screws
holding the fork in place on the top of the carton.

2. Lift/pull the top of the box off the base.

3. Remove staples/screws holding the cycle in place.

4. Lift/pull and roll the cycle CAREFULLY out of box. There is some stretch wrap on the rear wheels
and the brakes may be on, so pull slowly and let the wheels slide

5. Remove packing being careful not to scratch the paint or cut cables and housing.

6. Follow #6 above.

UNCRATING A CYCLE IN

UNCRATING A CYCLE IN A WOODEN CRATE

UNCRATING A CYCLE INUNCRATING A CYCLE IN

A WOODEN CRATE (THIS IS RARE)

A WOODEN CRATEA WOODEN CRATE

(THIS IS RARE)

(THIS IS RARE)(THIS IS RARE)

1. Position the crate with the arrows up.

2. Remove the lid piece using a reversible drill with a Phillips screwdriver bit by removing the screws
around the sides near the top.

3. Your cycle may be held in place by its fork. Generally, the easiest way to free it is to unscrew the
screws holding the wood block to the crate, then remove the block from the cycle after it is out of
the crate.

4. The handlebars and front wheel(s) have been removed from your cycle in order to make it more
compact for shipping. In place of the handlebar stem we have placed a spacer to hold the fork stem

Technical Manual

1-2

and bearings in position. Remove the black cap and spacer before installing the handlebar stem.
Tighten the cap as directed in the initial assembly pamphlet.

For trikes and four wheelers:

For trikes and four wheelers: You may lift the cycle out of the crate or remove all the screws around the

For trikes and four wheelers: For trikes and four wheelers:
sides of the crate at the rear and at the bottom of the rear panel. Remove the panel at the rear end of the
trike. This removes the corner braces of the crate so the cycle can be rolled out. Remove ties, internal
bracing and all packed components. Be careful in cutting cords or tape that you do not scratch the paint or
cut cables and housing.
Make sure the parking brake pin on the brake lever is released.
Cycle can now be lifted up in the front end and rolled out of the crate. Continue with #6 in section above.

For bikes:

For bikes: Begin to remove the ties that hold the components and bike in position. Lift the bike out of the

For bikes:For bikes:
crate.
Install the front fork, wheel(s), seat, handlebars and pedals.
Align handlebars and stem with the front wheel. Adjust to fit.
Refer to the Lightfoot Technical Manual for further installation and maintenance instructions.

FOR BOXED UNASSEMBLED TRIKES ONLY:

FOR BOXED UNASSEMBLED TRIKES ONLY:

FOR BOXED UNASSEMBLED TRIKES ONLY: FOR BOXED UNASSEMBLED TRIKES ONLY:

1. Bolt the frame together using 8mm frame bolts provided.

2. Lift the front end and install the fork; Follow #1 above

3. Install rear wheels: Insert the skewer into the wheel with the lever on the side opposite the brake
rotor. Slide the wheel axle between the chains and allow the upper chain to rest on the smallest
sprocket. Position between dropouts and work into place as gently as possible so as not to damage
the rotor or brake pads. Make sure the wheel is pushed into the dropouts solidly and tighten. Check
wheel alignment and reposition if needed.

4. Install front wheel: Follow #6 above.

5. Pedals: Follow directions from “Install pedals” above

Check your

Check your cycle

Check your Check your
Clean the frame regularly and check for cracks.

Clean the frame regularly and check for cracks. Keep bare metal lubricated.

Clean the frame regularly and check for cracks. Clean the frame regularly and check for cracks.

cycle every

every time you ride for brake function and secure wheels. Watch for loose fasteners.

cyclecycle

time you ride for brake function and secure wheels. Watch for loose fasteners.

everyevery

time you ride for brake function and secure wheels. Watch for loose fasteners. time you ride for brake function and secure wheels. Watch for loose fasteners.

Keep bare metal lubricated.

Keep bare metal lubricated.Keep bare metal lubricated.

Technical Manual

Enjoy your Lightfoot!

Enjoy your Lightfoot!

Enjoy your Lightfoot!Enjoy your Lightfoot!

RRRRemember

emember four

emember emember

1. Start with a power stroke

1. Start with a power stroke

1. Start with a power stroke1. Start with a power stroke

2. Lean back into the seat

2. Lean back into the seat

2. Lean back into the seat2. Lean back into the seat

3. Relax your arms when you ride!

3. Relax your arms when you ride!

3. Relax your arms when you ride!3. Relax your arms when you ride!

4. Look where you

4. Look where you WWWWANT to go!

4. Look where you 4. Look where you

four secrets of first riding a recumbent:

secrets of first riding a recumbent:

fourfour

secrets of first riding a recumbent:secrets of first riding a recumbent:

ANT to go!

ANT to go!ANT to go!

1-3

Figure 2.1. Headset cup placement

INITIAL ASSEMBLY

Modular frames should be bolted together firmly, as
soon as possible. Do not fully tighten any bolts until
all bolts are inserted and the nuts are on finger
tight. Be careful not to put weight on the frame
until all bolts are in and fully tightened; a partially
bolted frame can be easily damaged. Our frames
are fabricated with the frame sections bolted
together and WILL go back together; however, the
frame may need to be gently "tweaked" a bit to line
up the holes.

In order to put the vehicle on its wheels, you may need to install the front forks. The sequence
of cups, bearings, races and seals is illustrated in Figure 2. 2. The headset cups will normally be
already installed (pressed in) on most vehicles, and the bottom-most race (the "crown race")
will be pressed on the fork (may not be on framesets).

Figure 2.2 Headset, stem, head tube and fork assembly. From Right to left: Cap bolt, headset cap, stem,
upper cover, shim washer seal, compression ring, upper cartridge bearing, (cups are in the space between
the 2 bearings) lower cartridge bearing, lower bearing race/dust seal, and fork.

From the right; steering stem cap with bolt, stem, upper cover, shim washer seal, compression
ring, upper cartridge bearing , upper cup, head tube, lower cup, lower bearing, bearing
race/dust seal, crown of fork. The bearings we now use are sealed and only need a light coat
of grease to keep them from rusting.

Figures 2.3 and 2.4 show the installation. Slide the stem on above the headset upper cover,
place the steering stem cap on and using a 5mm hex key, tighten down enough so there is no
slop in the headset but not so much that the steering is stiff or that when you turn the
handlebars it feels ”crunchy”or tight. Sit on your cycle and align the handlebars, stem and front
wheel. Use a 5 mm hex key to tighten the two bolts holding the stem on.

Technical Manual 2-1

Figure 2.5. Tiller Steering setup

Figure 2.3 Above. Installation of fork into head set.
Figure 2.4 At right. Installing the stem.

INSTALLING HANDLEBARS AND STEM

Standard tiller steering includes a stem, either telescoping or
fixed-length. If telescoping, make sure that at least 2” are
inserted at maximum extension.

If your vehicle is a bike or trike with the 12” hi-rise bars", set
them in the stem so that the handle grip section just barely
reaches back and down. Trikes and four-wheelers with
"swept" bars actually may have a curve to the bar; set these
also so they reach back and down.

If a brace for the hi-rise bars is included with your model,
install it just below the curve of the handgrip area.

After the handlebar stem is put on the steerer tube (that
turns the fork), use a 5mm hex key to adjust the bolt
through the Star Fangled nut in the top of the head tube, to provide free movement of the fork
without sloppiness. The Star Fangled nut is set inside the steerer tube with a special tool. The
cap and bolt assembly thread into the Star Fangled nut and push down on the handlebar stem
and the headset bearings, thus creating the pressure that holds the headset together. Tighten

Technical Manual 2-2

Figure 2.6. Installing the rear wheel

Figure 2.5a. Swept handlerbar and stem riser

the handlebar stem bolts that grip the steerer tube only after the headset is adjusted and
handlebars aligned.

Put three- or four-wheel vehicles on their
wheels as soon as feasible to avoid
damage to the components on the
underside of the vehicle. If you are
working on a two-wheeler, use a
mechanics stand or work on carpet to
avoid scraping the powdercoat finish.

We may have dropped your handlebars
on the stem riser so that we could pull
the stem riser out of the frame for
shipping. Please raise the handlebars back
up to the top of your stem riser when
you make your final fitting adjustments.

PARKING BRAKE

Most Lightfoot trikes have a dual pull
brake lever with a locking pin (see figure

2.5a). Some may also have an elastic band Parking Brake that holds the brake lever in the “on”
position. Activate it by squeezing either the front or rear brake lever and slipping the elastic
over the brake lever. The band stores on the grip when not in use. Use it when you are
loading your trike or parking it on uneven ground.

INSTALLING WHEELS

Some wheel axles may be quite tight in their fit into the "dropouts" (the slot that holds the
wheel axle) because of the very stiff nature of our frames, it may be difficult to get the axle
between the dropouts if the
fit is tight.

The disc brake rotor must be
aligned with the brake caliper
on the left side of the wheel.
There is a manual for
maintenance and operation of

your brakes in your owner’s

packet. Please familiarize
yourself with their operation.

While holding the derailleur
down and out of the way as
shown, position the wheel
into the base of the dropout,
then, as gently as possible,
work the axle up into the

Technical Manual 2-3

dropout, and the rotor (“disc”) into the brake caliper, without damaging the rotor or brake
pads. DO NOT handle brake rotors with bare hands; they are very sharp!

Wheels need to be centered before the quick-release lever is tightened. Usually the weight of
the bike on the ground will center the wheels between the frame forks. If we have pre­assembled the bike, the brake rotor will be centered between the brake pads when the wheel
is correctly aligned.

Some axles (narrower than our standard 135 mm length) come with spacers (flat washers) on
them; these go to the inside of the dropout to fill gaps between the axle nut and the dropout.
Knurled washers (if any, often found on internal hubs) go to the outside, under the axle nut;
these help grip and hold the axle in the dropout.

Internally geared rear hubs that do not have derailleurs should have the chain installed over the
sprockets and then be slid up the dropouts until the chain is drawn tight. All wheels should be
"eye-balled" or measured to make sure they are straight before final tightening. It is possible to
bend the axle if the wheel is not relatively straight or if the cycle is ridden with only one side
tightened. Make sure axle nuts are tight.

Wheels with internal hubs will have
“alignment washers”. Make sure the right­angle flange of the alignment washer is
positioned in the dropout slot; tightening
the flange against the dropout could bend
the washer or even the axle.

Most Lightfoot models are equipped with
disc brakes. Use Gloves when handling
brake rotor discs. Slide the wheels into
place being careful to place the rotor
between the brake pads.

NEVER PUT HANDS NEAR

BRAKES OR ROTORS WHEN
WHEEL IS TURNING!

To remove or install a wheel with V-brakes ("linear-pull" brakes); squeeze the end of the V­brake arms together, and release the curved aluminum tube which holds the brake cable from
its slot. This allows the brakes to spring open and make room for the tire.

Wheels with the Nexus internal hub and roller-cam brake are more complicated to install;
please follow the instruction under "Internal Hub" below for attaching cables. Once the
internally-geared hub’s shifter cable is attached and the axle is in the dropout, the roller-cam
brake’s arm will be bolted to a clip attached to the frame. The rear "brake cable-stop" slides
into a slot on the brake "actuator arm"--the one dangling from the hub. The barrel adjuster
slides into a slot on the brake arm once it is bolted to the frame. The barrel adjuster and the
actuator arm are held in position by the tension of the "brake actuator return spring".

Technical Manual 2-4

Figure 2.9. Installing the crankset

Figure 2.8. Bottom bracket wrench
Figure 2.10. Crank arm puller

A word about maintenance: The hubs we use are not “sealed” but are “semi-sealed”. They
come well lubed. The bottom bracket does not come apart; it is maintenance free. IF the
threads start to "creak", back them out and grease them. They were well greased here. The
hubs will need some maintenance. We suggest twice a year lubing them.

THE BOTTOM BRACKET, CRANKSET AND
PEDALS

The bottom bracket bearing set may be already installed,
but may not be on framesets. If not, a special bike tool
is required to tighten it within the threaded "bottom
bracket shell".

The crankset is held on the bottom bracket spindle with
the included crankset bolts. Most cranksets are held on
with socket-head bolt, tightened with an 8mm Allen
wrench. Some types use a hex head bolt and a socket
wrench is needed. These bolts should be slightly
greased.

Wipe off any grease where the crank spindle slides into the crank arm--no more than a thin film
of grease is needed to keep the cranks from seizing onto the spindle. The crank with the
attached sprockets goes on the right side.

Pedals can be installed after the crank arms are on, so that the vehicle holds the arms--this
makes installing the pedals a bit easier. The left pedal is reverse-threaded. An open-end pedal
wrench is essential if you are going to remove and install the pedals frequently. Do not simply
hand tighten the pedals, as they may work loose and ruin the crank arm.

Maintenance: The bottom bracket does not come apart, it is maintenance free. If you begin to
feel a clunk or gritty spot, a bearing has gone out and it is time to replace the unit.

Technical Manual 2-5

Figure 2.11. Mesh seat

INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT
OF THE SEAT

Installation: Slide the two top pockets of the

seat cover over the top posts on the seat
frame. Slide the pocket of the seat bottom
over the seat horn. Buckle the large strap
around the seat supports and under the seat

fabric. Pull quite tight. You don’t want the

seat to bottom out on the frame.

Buckle the back straps starting at the top.
The top three straps should be tightened as
tight as they will go. The next two straps
should be tightened incrementally looser so
that the bottom strap follows the curve of the seat back. This allows for lumbar support and
can be adjusted to suit your needs. See more on this below.

Place the pad on the seat using the velcro to hold it in place.

Place the seat on the square rail and adjust it for the rider. Screw the quick release bolt into
the clamp while the lever is open until it snugs down when closed.

For Bikes: Attach the seat braces to the seat brace slotted tab on the rear frame of the bike.
Place the seat brace to the outside of the tab with the nylon washer between the slotted tab
and the seat brace. Tighten the nut
and bolt so that the seat brace does
not slip.

For Trikes: Attach the seat braces to
the seat brace slotted tab on the rear
frame of the bike. Place the seat
brace to the inside of the slotted tab
with the nylon washer between the
slotted tab and the seat brace.
Tighten the nut and bolt so that the
seat brace does not slip.

Figure 2.12. Seat clamp on Greenway
and RoadRunner trike

Adjustment: Adjust the seat braces so that the seat bottom supports are roughly parallel to

the ground. IF the seat is tipped too far forward, the horn will not be effective and the rider
will feel that she is falling out of the seat. Riding in a more recumbent position may require
shortening the horn.

When sliding the seat, push or pull as much as possible in the center so the tabs won’t bind.

Technical Manual 2-6

Figure 6.7. Fender stay
adjustment

Release ALL 4 quick release bolts and/or pinch barrel bolts during adjustment, even if
adjusting only one part of the seat.

For Greenways and RoadRunners: The lower quick release bolt on the seat clamp should have
a small wing nut on the chain side ( as shown in figure 2.12) and spacers to “shorten” the bolt

on the left side of the trike. IF it doesn’t, in some positions, the nut will interfere with the

cassette.

To adjust the contours of the mesh Performance seat, adjust the tension of the straps on the
back of the seat and under the seat bottom. Most people will want the straps behind the small
of the back (the lumbar region) to be tighter for more support, while the straps at the very
bottom of the back will remain quite loose. The seat horn can be adjusted in two ways; reduce
the contour that the horn creates by tightening the large strap under the seat, and increase the
horn contour by substituting a longer piece of 5/8” dowel and/or loosening the large strap.

The rear edge of the seat pad cover has a Velcro closing that can be opened to allow the
removal, modification or replacement of the seat pad.

All the nylon straps as well as the mesh itself will stretch a little during break-in. Readjust the
straps as needed to keep the seat comfortable for you.

FENDERS (FROM CHAPTER 6 OF TECH MANUAL)

Front Fenders All of our front fenders require that

the left stay have a 30 degree bend 3” behind the

fork mount loop to clear the brake caliper. On 20”

front fenders, we trim the backside so it will not scrape
going over curbs and bumps. The front fenders have single
stays instead of double stays.

INSTALLATION

1. Bolt the fender top tab to the FRONT of the fork using

6mm x 2” bolt, lock washer and nut. Center the fender

over tire and tighten.

2. The left fender stay needs a 30 degree bend 3 inches

behind the attachment loop to clear the front brake caliper.
We usually do that for you. If you have to bend it, just make sure the bend is in line with the
flat plane of the loop.

3. Attach stays to the 5mm threaded mounts in fork using 5 mm bolt and washer.

4. Adjust stays to center fender over the wheel by loosening the stay nuts and sliding the stays
while centering the fender.

5. Tighten all nuts. Trim the ends of the stays with bolt cutters or hacksaw if you choose. File
off sharp edges and replace end cap. A dab of finger nail polish or glue will hold them on well.

Rear Fenders on Bikes Set up fender hardware as directed in instructions with this exception:
the front mount on the rear fender should be installed by bolting from the inside of the fender

Technical Manual 2-7

Figure 6.8. Jackshaft, fender and brake setup

to the fender mount on the frame. Use two or more 1/4“ nuts as spacers between fender and

frame if needed.

Rear Fenders on Trikes 1.Place the fender on
the rear wheel. Open the Stays to approximate
width needed for mounting. 3. Bolt the stays to
the frame loosely. 4. Position the front of the
fender to the front of the outrigger above brake.
Use 5mm screws with flat and lock washers
from the inside of the fender to attach to fender
mount. 6. Adjust and tighten bolts and screws all
around when sure of fit. 6. After Stays are
adjusted, they may be cut off with bolt cutters,
filed and have caps placed on their ends—be
careful of the sharp cut ends.

Technical Manual 2-8

WHEELS AND TRANSMISS

WHEELS AND TRANSMISSIONS

W

HEELS AND TRANSMISSWHEELS AND TRANSMISS

MOUNTING TIRES ON WH

MOUNTING TIRES ON WHEELS

MOUNTING TIRES ON WHMOUNTING TIRES ON WH
Install a rim strip or rim tape; this protects the tube from punctures caused by the tips of the
spokes and the spoke nipples. Align the hole in the rim strip for the valve stem with the hole in
the wheel rim.
Some tires have a certain rotating direction marked on their sidewall. Generally, any V in the tread
pattern should open toward the rear of the direction of tire travel. On our trikes, we often
mount the right rear wheel with the cassette mount on the inside, but it doesn’t really matter.

Mount one side of the tire on the rim, and then push the
inner tube into the partially mounted tire. Make sure
the tube is not folded or twisted. After the valve stem is
situated, use the tire levers to force the second side of
the tire onto the wheel rim. Take care not to pinch the
inner tube as you go. Some tires may prove to be very
tight and difficult to lever onto the rim; warming and thus
softening the tires--as well as lubricating with soapy
water--may help get them on.

Before inflating, rotate the tire and tube around the rim
as needed until the valve stem sticks straight out of its
hole. Inflate slightly and, before inflating further, check to
make sure that the tire is seated evenly on the rim.
Finally, inflate the tire to its highest recommended pressure.

Some of our vehicles utilize high pressure (80 to 110 psi) tires for lower rolling resistance on
pavement. Many tire models on the market are rated for a maximum of 45 to 60 psi. Sometimes

Figure 3-2. Tire Assembly

EELS

EELSEELS

Figure 3-1. Rim Strip

people choose to inflate these medium-pressure
tires over the rated pressure so that they roll
more easily. Be aware that over-inflation is not
recommended by the tire manufacturer.

If the tire still does not want to seat correctly,
then deflate to 15 or 20 PSI. Squirt some Windex
or dish soap on the trouble spot making sure to
work it in below the bead. Then re-inflate the tire
to desired PSI. The lubrication should help the
tire to seat itself.

For safety reasons, insert the quick release axle

into the wheel so that the quick release handle is

on the side opposite the disc brake if at all possible.

IONS

IONSIONS

Technical Manual 3-1

gears on a trike.

T

RANSMISSIONS

TRANSMISSIONS

TRANSMISSIONSTRANSMISSIONS

Our standard transmission for a single-seat three- or four-wheeler is illustrated

below. The pedals are attached to a triple-sprocket crankset, which creates rotation (by means of
a chain) of an 8-speed gear cluster on a jackshaft (thus turning the jackshaft). A single sprocket on
the outer end of the jackshaft then creates rotation (by chain) of the 8-speed gear on the left rear
wheel--the drive wheel.

Two-wheel drive is a custom option, wherein the jackshaft is extended to the right to drive the
right rear wheel as well.

Trike Compound Gears

Trike Compound Gears

rike Compound GearsTrike Compound Gears

T

When all three gear clusters are in low, the resulting gearing is very
"low", "slow" or "powerful". This means that one revolution of the
pedals will produce only a small forward motion of the vehicle.
The force required to turn the pedals in low gear is very little; thus
pedaling is easy.

When all three gear clusters are in high, the resulting gearing is very
"fast" or "high". One revolution of the pedals will produce a lot of
forward motion. Unless the vehicle is already moving fast, the
effort required to turn the cranks will be very great. The very
highest gears are used only at high speeds on downhills, with the
help of gravity.

The term "Gear Inches" is shorthand for describing the "size" of
gear you are in. Being in a "90 gear-inch" gear is like pedaling an
1890's high-wheeler with a 90" diameter wheel and fixed pedals; a
single turn of the cranks and you go a long way forward. This is
called a "tall" or "high" gear. Being in a "10-inch gear" is like

Figure 3-3 Top view of

pedaling a little kid's trike with 10" diameter wheel (a "low" gear);
you don't make much forward progress for each turn of the cranks, though pedaling is relatively
easy. Being in a 26 gear-inch gear on a mountain bike with 26" diameter wheels means that for
each turn of the pedals, the drive wheel goes around exactly once. In a 52" gear, the drive wheel
goes around exactly twice for each revolution of the cranks.

As normally set up; the left hand shifts the front triple sprocket by means of a twist-grip shifter.
The right hand shifts the middle 8-speed cluster, also using a twist-grip shifter. A third shifter (a
thumb lever) is used to shift the rear 8-speed cluster. The rear cluster is shifted only occasionally,
and is normally left in a position to give an appropriately low gear for the conditions in which you
are riding.

Contrary to some assumptions; single-wheel-drive on a trike (as Lightfoot Cycles uses it) with
appropriate tires almost always provides plenty of traction, even in snowy or gravelly conditions.
Single-wheel-drive also does not create any difficulties with tracking (traveling straight ahead) on a
properly laid-out long-wheelbase design, despite the fact that only one side of the vehicle has
power. Electric assist and two-wheel-drive options create two different forms of very positive
dual-wheel traction.

Technical Manual 3-2